A pot of beans with the shank-bone and feet of a shoat having boiled over the fire during the night, the coffee was promptly prepared and the breakfast was soon served, when I moved off to encounter the worst roads that can ever be travelled. Each of the party was well mounted, and our two pack-mules were substantial and active; but it was with the greatest difficulty that the animals scrambled up the hills, and required the greatest care in sliding down the steep slopes, while the ridges and mud-holes in the comparatively level portions of the road were most serious obstacles to their progress. These roads, where pack trains of mules travel, become crossed from side to side with alternate ridges and hollows by the constant treading of the animals in the same tracks. In strict keeping with the Brazilian character, they follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before, and nothing induces them to change their unvarying adherence to the same track. Thus, one after another, and four or five abreast in a broad road, lines are formed entirely across, resembling when they become dry the ridges formed for planting the sweet potato. Indeed this correspondence is so striking that the first instance seen, being upon a road that had ceased to be travelled by these troops of pack-mules, induced me to think that a crop of potatoes or other roots had been planted there. Yet, upon inquiry, I learned that these ridges resulted from the very thing encountered on the road to-day, and by lapse of time all signs of tracks had disappeared.
On our route the depressions were either full of water and mud, or the slope at one side kept them drained; but in either case it was difficult for the mules to step over the high ridges, and one needs but to try the experiment of stepping repeatedly over elevations of this kind to know how tiresome it must prove to the animal when kept up for some considerable time.
On the hillsides the clay was for the most part solid, and with a slight rain that was falling it was very slick, which impeded our ascent; and our descent of these slick smooth slopes was something very peculiar, and to me quite amusing. The mules seemed to understand the thing perfectly, and would glide down as boys descend a steep clay bank upon a slide, making a continuous impression like the trail of a small narrow slide upon the side of the hill, from top to bottom. The two pack-mules were kept ahead, and upon reaching the top of one of the hills, away they would go one after the other, and as soon as they were out of the way, then down went the animals of the camaradas, as if upon skates, in quick succession, and going with that great speed resulting from the declivity. At the outset, I felt some concern as to following this example upon my staunch and rather tall mule, hunting for a rough part of the ground to descend so as to keep his feet from sliding. But I soon found that it was better to let him go as the others did, and when he would get under way on a long, steep hill, he went down almost with the velocity of a locomotive-engine.
These mules are without shoes, and indeed the best-secured shoes would probably be lost in the stiff mud. The hoof penetrates the clay in the soft parts of the road, and when drawn out it pops at every step like a cupping-glass jerked suddenly from the skin. Only one of the animals made a complete fall during the day, and that was the horse, which was running loose at the time. The mules frequently slipped upon their knees in ascending the slick hills, but were upon their feet again in an instant. These men give their mules the rein entirely loose in descending the hills; and though I felt like keeping a check upon my bridle at first, I observed that the others got on better without tightening their reins, and that the pack-mules went safely without bridles, so that I soon concluded to give my brave and sturdy mule his will, letting him select his own way and his own speed in descending the hills.
When we approached the crest of the serra, the route became so very steep and rugged that, in compassion to my faithful animal, I dismounted and walked up several hills. The camaradas had previously on sundry occasions relieved their animals by walking; and the old man got a fall in going up a slick hill very much such as that which occurred to the horse.
There has been a considerable amount of labor bestowed upon this route across the serra, to make it practicable for pack-mules and those under the saddle; yet it is very difficult to make the trip even with excellent animals, and inferior stock could not traverse this awful road.
I am now entirely satisfied as to the cause of the cotton and other freight going from Faxina and other neighboring places, over the long route by way of São Paulo, to Santos upon pack-mules.
The difficulties of the passage across this serra may not be so great elsewhere as the route by which I travelled to-day; but from all that can be learned it is not likely that communication will ever be made easy from that region to the navigable waters of the Ribeiro de Ignape. Should the same amount of labor be given to the line from Itapetininga to Sette Barros which has been expended upon the Serra de Santos, it is most likely that a practicable road could be made there; and that route is perhaps the most important of any that could be selected for the accommodation of the public interests of the country. The vast and very fertile region of Botocatu would find a ready outlet for its products by this line of communication, and the large tract of agricultural country lying between this place and Apiahy calls loudly for a road to this river, over which wagons as well as pack-mules may pass with facility. A road to Sette Barros, or some point on the Rio Inquia, would secure steamboat transportation, and redound to the greatest benefit of the people throughout this entire region, while it would promote vastly the interests of the government. If the difference of freight by such a line, and the long line of pack-mules to Santos, is considered, it ought to induce prompt action in effecting it.
In different parts of the serra, which is here known as the “Morreo de Chumbo,” (hill of lead,) large mines of lead ore have been discovered; and the large proportion of metal and its freedom from impurities would insure an abundant yield.
Large masses of limestone are also present in several places. In one place, iron ore was likewise observed, which is doubtless connected with an extensive deposit. I was particularly struck with collections of superior red chalk, which would be well adapted for red pencils, as well as the ordinary marking purposes of chalk, while it might also serve as a pigment when ground. There is said also to be a deposit of coal in the range of hills next to Iporanga, but this may be a misapprehension of inexperienced persons. Should there prove to be coal-mines here, the value of the whole assemblage of mineralogical specimens would be immensely enhanced.
All these treasures might be made available which are located upon slopes of the serra looking towards Iporanga, but on the other side the difficulties of transportation are almost insurmountable.
Upon the top of the serra, between two ridges, there is a farm, upon which corn was growing most luxuriantly. Bananas and coffee trees were also seen at another place, looking very well.
An exceeding fine black bull was observed all alone far up on the ridge, and his appearance indicated fine stock. Other cattle in excellent condition were seen elsewhere, and in one group there were four bulls, two of which were very large.[29]
We reposed last night at an old site of a fazenda, belonging to the estate of Senor Rafael, who died about a year since leaving a large property. A negro woman, having charge of the house, gave it up to our possession, and assisted us some in our culinary arrangements, for which she was rewarded by taking breakfast with these camaradas, after I had eaten my frugal meal. The farina was made into mush this morning, and thus furnished something of a variety in our fare.
Having now descended from the elevated land, we proceeded along a stream, called the Ribeirão de Camarga, which was crossed no less than nine times within a few miles; and after leaving it, three other smaller streams were crossed within as many hundred yards, all converging to empty into one channel that was subsequently passed, as it made its way into the great receptacle of these waters, the Ribeira de Ignape.
Within six miles we reached the village of Iporanga, and ascertaining that Senor João Paulo Dias, to whom I bore a letter, was not in town, I called at his house, and found Senor Joaquim José Vieyra da Rocha in possession, who treated me very kindly. He provided a very good meal for me, and yet having no knife on the table, left me to manage with a fork and a spoon. Upon intimating my wish to arrange for proceeding upon my journey, he went and brought Senor Manoel Joquim da Rocha, who advised me to proceed to Xiririca in a canoe, and arrange there for farther progress.
To this I acceded, and requested him to make all the requisite arrangements for the trip on the water, and let me know what was to be paid. He stated that it would be better for me to go this afternoon, some eight miles down the river to the situ of Senor João Paulo, to whom I had brought the letter, and spending the night with him, I could resume my voyage to-morrow morning. All being in readiness, he went with me to the point of embarkation, and upon my proposing to pay, he said all was settled in advance, and that I had nothing to pay. Besides this, he gave me two letters to parties in Xiririca, to facilitate my progress from there. This gentleman being an entire stranger, and having no personal interest whatever in serving me, I appreciated most gratefully his kindness in this matter.
I learned from Senor Manoel that Senor Street had been here some days ago, but had returned to Cananea, and perhaps to São Paulo; yet it was my expectation that he might still be found at the former place, and my wish was to communicate with him if possible in this region.
In descending the river, my negro boatman told me that the gentleman to whose house I was going was one of a party in canoes at a landing near by us. I directed him to stop his canoe at this place, and upon meeting Senor João Paulo, the letter of Senor Joaquim Custodio Merada of Paranapanema was delivered to him. He invited me to return with him and his family to the town; but upon stating to him my destination, he proposed at once to go back with me to his situ below.
I suggested to him that this would perhaps incommode his family, but all seemed to acquiesce cheerfully, and returned.
His cotton field was visited, and the land seemed to be well adapted to the growth of this article; but the work was very deficient, and the want of proper culture was indicated in the large number of stalks that were allowed to remain in a hill. In some instances, I counted as many as eight stalks growing in close proximity to each other, and the hills generally had more than three stalks. I advised him to reduce the stand to two stalks in a place, for a portion at least of his crop, that he might see the benefit of thinning it out. I selected one stalk which happened to be alone, and counted upon it twenty-two squares; and no stalks where there was two or more in a place exceeded sixteen squares, thus illustrating on the spot the advantage of more space.
A portion of the plants on this place have been destroyed by the ants, (formica,) and I suggested to him that the use of the plough in planting and in the subsequent cultivation of the cotton, would be likely to keep the soil free from the ant:
Another portion of the field was overrun with the weeds; and even the hoe had not been used in any part of his cotton, so as to afford a good result. A part of this land is river bottom, but above ordinary inundations, while another part is elevated land, running up from this flat, and it seemed that the latter was the best suited to the production of cotton, being also less liable to the attacks of the ant. This low land would doubtless suit corn well, yet it is here as we see all the world over, the article that is supposed to bring most money has precedence; and no corn was seen, though he stated that it was planted in some other portions of land.
The lands lying along the river thus far are very hilly and almost mountainous, with here and there, as at this place, a level space in which cotton, corn, or sugar-cane is planted. The more irregular lands are usually covered with mandioca, the root of which is the great source of farina, that is so generally used as food in this country.
Coffee trees were observed growing well in the yard at this place, having a good crop of berries and abundant blooms, where the berries were not yet formed. Senor João informed me that coffee gives a good yield here, and that there is no frost in this section to damage the crop.
There is a rice pounding-mill in operation adjoining the dwelling, and it is expected to connect a cotton-gin with the same water-power.
As yet there are no cotton-gins in this region of country, and any one who would anticipate the supply of the planters by erecting machinery for cleaning and packing cotton upon this river, would realize a fine return from his investment.
Senor João gave me this evening a fine specimen of lead ore, taken from a deposit within five miles of Iporanga; and he says there is certainly a bed of coal in the same vicinity, specimens of which he has sent to Rio de Janeiro, but no report has yet been received from the examination of it. He states that a good road can be made from the site of this lead and coal to the river, and transportation in large canoes thence to Xiririca, at which point the river becomes navigable for steamboats.
A large coal-mine here would be far more valuable than a gold mine to the fortunate owner.
Senor João Paulo Dias is the delegado of police for the municipality of Iporanga, and occupying a position in society which entitles his statements and opinions to respect. Upon inquiring the facts as to health and climate in this locality and the adjacent country, he gives an unqualified voucher for their salubrity and pleasantness. I see nothing that could induce disease; and the atmosphere is dry, with the sun shining all the day brightly, while the elevation gives a more pleasant temperature than in lower places, or even in the plateau lands.
I am informed that none of these troublesome little insects which penetrate the skin of the feet, and other parts, are found here, and yet there are hogs constantly about the yard.
I learn here that the lands of Dom Prates, of which mention was previously made, are located near the route from Apiahy to Iporanga, and though hilly are considered fertile. It is stated, however, that the coffee trees planted there have all died, from some inscrutable cause. I am satisfied that the land is very unfavorably located for transportation, and shall not try to visit it under all the circumstances.
The important matter in selecting a place is to secure lands adapted to all the variety of products, which are exempt from liability to sickness, and affording ready means of communication with a market, by means of navigation. Such I trust may be found combined in the neighborhood of Xiririca; and without spending time looking at other points I will proceed to investigate those lands.
Though this day should have been observed as a day of rest, the arrangement of Senor Manoel made it incumbent to proceed in his canoe down the river to-day. After breakfasting with Senor João Paulo I was provided with a supply of chicken, fish, etc., etc., for my dinner, and took my departure at 9 o’clock A. M. The large fish, of which I had a part, and had also partaken at breakfast, was caught with a hook from the river, and though the name has escaped me, it was a fine specimen of what these waters produce. I understand that large fish are not so frequent here as lower down in the stream, but that there are a great many of good size for table use in all parts of the river.
While coming down in the canoe I read in the Portuguese Testament the sixth chapter of St. John’s gospel, and tried to profit by the lessons of dependence upon the Lord which it inculcates.
In the early part of my descent the lands were quite mountainous on each side of the river, but the irregularity of the surface gradually became less, until I reached a region where the elevations afforded only an agreeable relief to the more uniform configuration of the surface.
All the corn seen in the first part of the voyage seemed to have been planted early, and had become prematurely dry, giving an unfavorable impression of the yield of this region. But that observed lower down, and more recently planted, looked fresh and vigorous, while the corn approaching maturity was evidently of better stamina than that passed above. This change was evident after descending twenty miles, and decided after reaching the Inguary. This small river enters opposite to a very pretty island, which looks as if it would be productive; and the appearance of the corn on each bank of the Ribeira indicated good soil.
Upon descending further, the Laguary, a larger stream on the left, was passed, and I was told that canoes ascend it to a considerable distance.
Below this is the island of Bananal Grande.
My sturdy negro boatman did not seem inclined to expend much his energies upon his paddle, and I endeavored to stimulate him by offering a reward for a quick trip. But he subsequently sat down to paddle, and actually went to sleep. I then said that he must be very tired, and proposed to relieve him for a time, but he insisted there was no need of my doing so, and seemed to turn over the paddle to me reluctantly. My progress was not the most satisfactory, and getting into a swift place, the canoe made headway towards a point of land which I had to turn. The negro, perceiving my inability to manage his craft, again took the paddle, and after this there was no more sitting down to sleep. These fellows stand up in using the paddle or pole, and it is surprising how long they can continue this severe labor without intermission. This canoe was a regular dug-out, as are all on this river. It measured about twenty (20) feet in length, two (2) feet across the mouth, and eighteen (18) inches deep. The general thickness did not exceed one inch, with a belt of increased thickness in the middle, and with somewhat more substance in the bottom.
The negro informed me that such a canoe could be bought for six dollars ($6.00) at Iporanga.
Reaching Xiririca shortly after 6 o’clock P. M., I went immediately to the house of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorgi, and upon presenting the letters I bore from various parties, he proposed that I should proceed with him and his family down the river to his situ. To this I cordially assented, saying, “En eston as suas ordens.” His wife was introduced to me, and having learned that she spoke English, I forthwith propounded the interrogatory, “Falla Inglez, Senhora?” But I was answered, “Não, Senhor. Esquece toda lingua Ingleza.” She had spoken English when she was first married, but having no one to converse with for eight years, it had been forgotten, and I was left to my small acquirements in Portuguese as the only means of communication with this family. Senor Guilherme, a son of Senor Miguel, was also presented to me, and a number of other gentlemen who happened to be at the house when I entered. I escorted Senhora to the canoe-landing, giving her my arm, as I had learned this act of civility was viewed much in the same light as with us. All that was said by either was mutually understood, and my prospect for getting on in my communications with intelligent, educated people, is far more encouraging than in my intercourse with the caipiras with whom I have been for several days past in coming across the country.
I was accommodated in the huge family canoe, which had a covering of raw-hide, and all were comfortably protected for the voyage of ten miles.
The negro with the other canoe, in charge of my baggage, was directed by Senor Miguel to follow us.
Requesting Senor Guilherme to write a note of thanks for me to Senor Manoel Joaquim da Rocha, for the service rendered by the man and the canoe in bringing me down the river, they were dismissed this morning at an early hour to return to Iporanga.
Having learned definitely that Senor Street has left this section, I am thrown upon my own resources in making any exploration of the lands, and, as Senor Miguel seems very kindly disposed, I have accepted his invitation to remain a few days for the purpose of looking around the country.
His dwelling and all its appliances present an air of substantial comfort, and even of elegance in some respects. The parlor is a large, well-furnished apartment, and has a piano of the bureau order, which is very fashionable in this country. His wife performs well upon this instrument, and has also the accomplishment of speaking French and Italian, though she has forgotten most of her English. She is very sprightly, and appears quite young for the wife of a gentleman of fifty-five years, as I take Senor Miguel to be from his appearance. He is originally from Spain and retains much of the harsh accent of that country in speaking the Portuguese, so that I do not understand him with the same facility as I do his wife or his son. The only fruit of the present marriage is one pretty little girl, who is quite a prattler. By a former marriage he has this son and two others, one a lawyer at Ignape, and the other a Catholic priest at Bahia.
Senor Miguel has at this place extensive machinery with water-power, for treating rice and sugar-cane, from the latter of which the rum (cachaça) is the chief yield, as it is found to pay better than the sugar or molasses.
I was struck with the convenience of his rolling scaffolds for sunning the rice, there being three or four of different elevations, so that one goes under the other, and each having its separate track, they can be compactly stored under a house or drawn out to be exposed to the sun. A similar plan to this would be well suited for drying coffee, yet nothing of the kind was seen in the coffee establishments, and they should profit by the suggestion. Upon these a few of the women and children about the house can draw out or run under shelter, as may be required, a large amount of rice or coffee.
There is also a saw-mill in operation here which seems to be of long standing, and has a perpendicular saw that works rather slowly.
The water-power used for these several purposes is a stream of no great magnitude, that comes into the Ribeira at this point, and by throwing a dam across some short distance above, he secures sufficient water for his purposes.
The residence and other buildings are located upon the bank of the river within a short distance of the water, and sundry large canoes supply the means of transportation to and from this place, which is called Caiacauga.
These canoes are of various sizes, made out of a solid log of wood. The one in which we all came down last night is forty-five feet long, thirty-two inches deep and thirty inches across the mouth. But there are others larger than this in all respects, and some measuring three feet across the mouth.
The largest canoes will carry ten thousand pounds of freight upon this river, and are worth about one hundred dollars; those of eight thousand pounds capacity may be bought for ninety dollars; while those of five thousand pounds capacity are valued at fifty dollars. From this down to the size capable of carrying two men and their baggage, the price ranges even as low as five dollars. This is found to be a very economical means of transportation, and those who employ their canoes for the public charge but twenty cents per head from Xiririca to Ignape, a distance of between ninety and one hundred miles. The steamboats adopt the same scale of rates; and from Ignape to Rio de Janeiro the rate of transportation is forty cents per head, making the entire freight from Xiririca to Rio de Janeiro only sixty cents per head when transported by water.
In comparing this with the table of published rates from Santos to Rio Claro, or any of the interior towns in the direction of Araraquara, it is found the latter is two dollars and forty cents per head without including the further item of shipment to Rio de Janeiro from Santos. So much for the difference of water and pack-mule transportation. We may reasonably calculate that the transportation to Rio from Araraquara will be five-fold greater than from Xiririca, even when the line of railroad is completed from Santos to Campinas. The pack-mules being placed on the upper part of the line will continue to exact a heavy tariff before articles reach the cars, and the rate of freight by railroad must exceed very much that by water.
This matter is of great consequence in the profits of a crop; and while many articles are entirely precluded from market, by the rates of transportation on pack-mules from the interior of this province, even coffee and cotton cannot be forwarded to any advantage, except when the prices of these commodities are very high. On the other hand, there is scarcely any thing marketable which could not afford to pay the freight from Xiririca and leave a margin of profit; and all that is saved upon coffee and cotton is clear gain to the planter in this region.
The Ribeira de Ignape is navigable for steamboats of light draught at all seasons up to Xiririca, and at the ordinary state of the water, during the rainy season, those drawing eight feet can pass up it. The part affording least depth of water is at the mouth, all other parts of the river, being very favorable for navigation.
It runs very smoothly opposite the site of Caiacauga; and in passing down a few miles this afternoon, I was impressed with its special adaptation for navigation.
I visited, in company with Senor Miguel, the farm of Senor Manoel Roberto de Almaida, about two miles down the river; and though being under cultivation, it interested me greatly.
Cotton of American seed had been growing four years without pruning, and yielded two crops a year. The present prospect for a crop is fair, and I counted an average stalk having forty-two grown bolls upon it, while an isolated stalk had eighty-five bolls. I saw a very large stalk of cotton separate from the planting of the field, where it had ample space to spread, which must have had, at the least calculation, two hundred bolls.
This is the first specimen seen which has been growing for such a length of time, and it has not even been cut off, as most of the plants have been, which are more than one year’s growth. The appropriateness of this climate for the continuous production of cotton from a single planting during four years, is illustrated by a considerable field growing in this place; and apart from being arranged in rows, it affords but little evidence of attention. The land is evidently inferior to most of the surrounding territory, and yet it is of that dark gray order, with an admixture of coarse gravel, that is usually best adapted to the culture of cotton. The recently planted cotton also looks well, and if it was cultivated properly, would doubtless far exceed the yield of that which has been on the land four years.[30]
Coffee trees of great age were seen here still bearing some fruit, and younger trees, with a full crop of the berries, indicated a climate well suited to this article. This man is eighty-five years old, and has a sister ninety years old living in this neighborhood, giving good evidence of the healthfulness of the country.
I came down the river this morning in a canoe with Senor Miguel and his son, to his plantation at Ponto-Grosso, a distance of forty miles from Caiacauga. The rain was falling most of the time of our descent, and prevented me from seeing much of the land or crops on either side of the river. The few patches of corn seen did not present a favorable aspect, but having no information as to the period of its planting, I could not judge correctly of it.
We landed at a sandy beach, and breakfasted upon the abundant supplies brought with us; and dined after our arrival, having taken eight hours to make the trip.
The Rio Inquia enters the Ribeira eight miles above here, and adds greatly to the amount of water, so that it bears a striking resemblance to the Mississippi river, in the character of the stream and the general aspects of the adjacent country. It is a magnificent body of water, and, with the exception of a single small steamboat, is only navigated by large canoes, which transport the products along its margin to Ignape, a distance of forty miles below this point.
The lands along the banks of this river are covered for the most part with a most luxuriant growth of the copine grass, which is relished greatly by cattle, horses, and mules; but it is so succulent that it does not seem well for drying so as to make hay, and the land is too valuable to be left open for pasturage, so that very little of it is made available.
The soil of the river bottoms is a dark ash color, of a fine loamy consistence, and of great depth, so that it does not become exhausted by cultivation; and corresponds (so far as my limited knowledge of the lands of the Mississippi enable me to speak) very much in all respects to the Mississippi bottoms.
Upon visiting a field where cotton and corn are planted, the former was found to be growing too luxuriantly, and will be likely to make a large stalk without affording a good yield. The stand was irregular, and had been but partially supplied by replanting and transplanting. This last process is entirely new to me, and though not resorted to in the Southern States, it has a fair prospect for success here in the rainy season. The importance of having the stand of cotton all as nearly of the same age as practicable, and getting it forward during the wet months, will warrant the trouble, if it is found to succeed well. It is demonstrated that the plant takes root and grows, but how it may thrive or yield subsequently is yet to be tested. It has not been tried by any other person who I have met in Brazil, and has been resorted to in compliance with a suggestion of Dom Frederico Leopoldo Cesar Burlamaqui, a writer upon the culture of cotton, whose paper was published in 1863, with a view to induce the planters of Brazil to plant cotton while its culture was suspended in the United States.
The corn is planted in rows, with five rows of cotton intervening, and consequently too far apart for the pollen from the tassels to have its full effect upon the silks. The ears are therefore not well filled with grains, and the general size of the ears do not seem in proportion to the large stalks. The white flint corn is planted here exclusively, and the same seed has been used from time immemorial, so that a change of the grain is perhaps now indicated for the improvement of the crop. Of course the corn ought to be planted separate from the cotton, and the rows being in closer proximity would secure a better result.
There has been a change made in the rice planted here, within the last three years, and the superior quality of the yield over that of other specimens is very evident. A part of the new supply was from Santos, which is regarded an excellent place for rice; and another portion was procured from South Carolina, the rice from that State being considered the best of the world. Senor Miguel tells me the seed of the Carolina rice yields more grains to the head, but not larger or better quality than the other. The rice culture here is not confined to low lands, but is mixed with corn and cotton by some persons in uplands. My friend has at this place a rice-mill in operation, with a dozen mortars and pestles, and cleans ten sacks of rice daily. This is a task assigned to those working in the establishment, and they have to complete it before stopping the mill. It requires it to go quite early, and continues until after night, to accomplish the whole process.
We set out this morning before breakfast and visited a field of corn which was approaching the period of tasseling, and presented a vigorous growth, though too much crowded in the drill.
A coffee field was next examined, containing twenty-five thousand (25,000) trees of two years and younger which had been transferred from a nursery. They were evidently retarded in their development by a luxuriant crop of mandioca that surrounded the plants and shut out the sun to a great extent; yet the most of them look in a healthy, thriving condition, and some have blooms or a few berries of coffee. This coffee is planted upon elevated land, and the soil is dark gray with a mulatto base. These conical-shaped elevations are frequently observed here, and stand out in bold relief to the general flat character of the land near the river.
The mandioca presents an appearance very similar to the castor oil plant when fully developed; and the root is the great source of farina which is eaten by whites and blacks throughout Brazil. There are two distinct varieties, one of which is very similar to the sweet potato, being eaten in the same mode; while the other contains a poisonous juice which must be expressed from the root before the solid portion is used for food. This juice is said to be fatal to man or animal if taken in any considerable quantity; and the presence of it to a greater or less extent in some specimens of the farina is doubtless prejudicial to health, and may perhaps be a source of leprosy in some instances elsewhere.
The farina, however, when properly prepared from this poisonous root, is found to be nutritious and healthy; and this variety of the mandioca supplies most of the people with a substitute for bread. The roots are scraped and grated by a machine, when the coarse powder is subjected to compression under a screw to express the juice, after which the solid portion is pounded in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. This is then dried in shallow pans over a furnace, and undergoes a cooking or parching process that fits it for keeping in sacks or barrels for any length of time. It is generally put on the table in this dry state, and is mixed with almost every thing else that may be eaten, in the same manner that we use bread.
Besides this, there is also a beautifully fine and white powder made from the mandioca by a process similar to that of preparing starch; and it is used for diet under the same circumstances that arrow-root is employed with us.
The mandioca grows well upon this land, and yields without culture, but should be allowed to remain in the ground from eighteen months to two years to attain maturity.
One stalk, which was torn out of the ground this morning for me to examine the roots, had twenty developments resembling sweet potatoes, and the whole would have filled a peck measure, thus affording a most abundant yield. It is propagated by cuttings from the limbs of the growing plants, and these are planted so that the trees cover the entire land densely and uniformly.
After breakfasting, the extensive new ground (roça) was visited. One hundred and sixty (160) acres planted in cotton and twenty acres in corn and rice present quite a promising prospect, though as yet nothing definite can be determined as to the result. The cotton is all young, but the most advanced looks well, notwithstanding there is in some parts a considerable admixture of fern and poke-stalks, calling for the hoe, and the dead trees are lying promiscuously over the ground. There has been an attempt to plant in rows, but they are very irregular; and the stand of cotton is in many places deficient, though it does not seem to be the result of destruction by the ant as in other places.
All the work here is done with the hoe; and the planting is effected by digging a hoeful of dirt, dropping five or six seed, and then covering, at intervals of two feet, more or less.
This land is elevated and the soil dark gray, with an admixture of sand, presenting very favorable conditions for cotton if the culture was properly conducted.
The corn was yet young but flourishing, and is expected to yield without farther work.
The rice is planted in the flats between the more elevated grounds, and evidently will give an excellent yield.
Pine-apples were found growing promiscuously in different parts of this plantation, and I had the opportunity of eating this most delicious fruit to my complete satisfaction; and we started back with our canoe well stocked with large, yellow, sweet-scented cones.
In returning I observed the settlements more than in descending, as it was no longer raining, and there was a large number of dwellings on the margin of the Ribeiro, having in many instances a rice-mill connected with the establishment. These mills are moved usually by small streams of water coming into the river from either side; and a prime object in locating a residence is to be near one of these streams.
At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.
This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something unfavorable to health, and I should not like a location so low down on the river, or so immediately upon its margin.
Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse (Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.
It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a resemblance to a horse.
Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in a private dwelling.
As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.
We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that neighborhood is sure and of good quality.
It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected by a covering of raw-hides.
After enjoying a comfortable night in the hospitable mansion of my friend, Senor Miguel, I went this morning with his son to set a gill-net for fish, and thence across the river to gather some grapes. This planting is made from cuttings of vines in the United States, and is now bearing a crop of fine fruit. The vines are arranged upon a large wooden frame, and appear vigorous and healthy, though upon the low land near the river, which is certainly not a very favorable site for the grape culture.
That celestial fruit, the jaboticaba, was also found growing in the same locality, but only a few remained of the abundant crop which the trees are said to have borne this year.
Several other varieties of fruit trees were seen, but it not being the season of maturing, I had no opportunity to test their qualities.
On returning to the gill-net quite a number of small fish were entangled in its meshes, and Senor Guilherme has since visited it again, getting quite a full mess for the entire family. Some of them, called cascudo, are a new order of fish to me, having a hard skin with scales like the pike or gar, and a very large broad fin upon the back, spreading out like a fan.
The sun was shining brightly during our walk, but it subsequently clouded up and rained.
Senor Miguel showed me this afternoon a field in which cotton and sugar-cane had been planted together, the crop of cotton being gathered some months ago, and the cane being now cut so as to permit the cotton to make another crop from the old stalk.[31]
All things being provided for a tour of observation, Senor Miguel, his son Guilherme and myself embarked in a large canoe at 9 o’clock this morning, to ascend the Ribeira. The margin of the river on the way to Xiririca presented many desirable locations which I had not been able to see when coming down in the night. A short stop was made at the village, where a letter was delivered to Senor Bernardo José Cabral, that should have been presented on my first arrival. Other letters were left for parties who were not at home.
On resuming our ascent of the river, a short visit was made to the farm of Senor Francisco Alvares da Silva, where his interesting family received us cordially, and one of his daughters gave us several pieces of music on the piano. He regaled us with excellent grapes of various qualities, the germs of which were imported from the United States. A few stalks of cotton from American seed were growing finely in his yard. But I was most interested in his coffee field, where trees from three years to twenty years growth presented a most exuberant crop of berries, and certainly present as good a prospect for a large yield of coffee as any of the trees seen in the best regions of Campinas, Lemeira and Rio Claro. These trees are growing in a sandy soil, upon a high bank of the river, and there is an excellent crop of corn in the intervening space, with good cane adjoining.
Our progress up the river enabled me to see again the lands on the banks, which had been seen in my first descent, and further observation impressed me even more favorably.
In many places there are hills extending to the margin, but in most parts the land is elevated, with an extended plain, looking as if the soil would be admirably adapted to cultivation. Corn, rice and sugar-cane, with occasional small patches of coffee, were observed in different localities, and this region seems not only well suited to a variety of products, but also is admirably adapted for settlement. It is high, and gives evidence of being healthy in the appearance of the people living upon the margin of the river.
I have seen nowhere better specimens of healthy, vigorous development than was presented by the daughters of the gentleman at whose house we stopped, and the report given is unqualifiedly favorable to the healthiness of the country and the pleasantness of the climate. Though in the rainy season there is frequently wet weather for a few days, yet even during this period there are intervals of clear, bright days.
The sun shone brightly upon us during most of the day, and though there was a mere sprinkle late in the afternoon, it soon passed off and the sky was again free from cloud.
The current, after ascending a short distance from Xiririca, becomes more rapid, and though we had four stout negroes to man our large canoe, it gave them heavy labor in using the poles. Upon making the suggestion that it was severe work, the reply was simply that they were used to it and did not tire.
It was after dark when we reached the mouth of the Inguary, and this being the point of disembarkation, we stopped at a house for the night.