Immediately after breakfast this morning we called upon Dr. Bosworth, who had been at our quarters on Saturday without seeing us. He desired to apprise us of an appointment; that Major Pedro Latão da Cunha would accompany us to-day at 12 o’clock to visit the Minister of State. Of this we had already been apprised by the gentleman in person, and at the hour specified we proceeded with him to the large public buildings where this minister receives audience.

Captain Buhlaw having also an application for public service, accompanied Mr. Mallory and myself, and was included with us in the kind offices of presentation to Conselheiro Saraiva, the Minister of State for the empire of Brazil. Next to the Emperor, he is the highest dignitary of the land, and in his absence at the seat of war, this official takes charge of matters that are intended for the special consideration of the Emperor. We were received by him with every mark of attention and consideration; and the interview terminated with an assurance that each of us would receive the appointments as desired.^[8] He said, farther, that our applications were favorably considered, not so much from any demand for our services, as that the empire of Brazil wished to extend this recognition and appreciation of our motives, in coming to this country as a place of residence.

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars, which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr. Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present. It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance; but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste. There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and, though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun, I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the “vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water, around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there permanently in various industrial occupations.

Receiving an invitation from Dr. Raney, the chief of the Ferry Company, to take a ride with him on one of the boats, we crossed the bay to the town of Nitherohi; and learned that this was entirely distinct from the city of Rio, being the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro, and having its own independent municipal regulations. San Domingos constitutes an adjunct to this, and is the seat of numerous factories of cigarettes, while it is a most attractive home for private families.

There are two landings, at which these boats stop, and the number of persons getting on and off, morning and evening, are almost equal to that of the New York and Brooklyn ferry boats. There is not, however, such a continuous passing during the day and night, though a single boat finds profitable employment until 12 o’clock at night.

The fee for ferriage during the day is six cents. This is doubled from dark until 9 o’clock, when it is again doubled until 10 o’clock, and from this until 12 o’clock the last is doubled, making the fare fifty cents. Thus persons who keep late hours, attending theatres, balls, or parties in the city, are taxed with extra fare to return to their homes, and it must have some effect towards inducing men to remain with their own families during the evenings.

It is an interesting fact that these boats, being similar to the double-enders of New York, should have been brought across the ocean from the United States by their own engines; and though they were in a gale, and got separated on the way, they suffered but little damage, and reached here in good condition for service. Besides the two that steamed out, there was a third brought upon the water, by a temporary rigging of sails. The whole was superintended by Dr. Raney in person, and indicates much energy and business capacity on his part. There is another boat, which was purchased in Rio, and has been remodelled so as to suit this special service, but it is not yet ready to go upon the line of the ferry company.

The daily receipts on this line of ferry boats are not usually less than four hundred dollars, which no doubt covers the wear and tear, with interest on the capital, and leaves a large net income. Yet the payments required for putting every thing in thorough order has prevented large dividends to stockholders.

The Corcovado mountain is the highest accessible point around the city, and having a road to its summit, the visitor finds there seats for his comfort, and enjoys a view of all the surroundings of the city. Upon the slope at the foot of this mountain is a country which is resorted to by the curious, and presents many elaborate works of art, mingled with the beauties of nature, to grace the last resting-place of man’s frail body.

One of the most conspicuous features of the populated portion of the city is the signal telegraph at the observatory, upon the elevated Morro do Castillo. Here, a flag pole with arms and cords, for the attachment of various signals, stands in bold relief above the busy throng of people; and when a vessel is seen to approach from the ocean, such flags are raised as indicate to all the initiated what is the character of the vessel, and from whence she comes, usually two or three hours before her arrival. Upon this hill is also located the military hospital, which has the reputation of being a remarkably well-regulated establishment, for the treatment of those connected with the public service.

The monastery is a very extensive structure located upon the Morro San Antonio, and, being far above the ordinary haunts of the population, affords the monks comparative exemption from any of the annoyances of their fellowmen.

Upon the Morro de São Bento is located the convent, for the accommodation of the Sisters of Charity, and here, I am informed, quite a large number of nuns are congregated, as a place of perpetual seclusion from the snares and temptations that are supposed to beset the sex in this sinful world.

Among the elevations of celebrity, either for their public occupation or as the residence of persons of distinction, are the Morro da Gloria, Morro do Senado, and the Morro do Livramento.

While Rome is known as the city of seven hills, this designation might also be most appropriately applied to Rio de Janeiro, as her hills are the greatest attractions of the place, affording a delightful variety of scenery. Leaving the heights we may descend to the plains, and note some of the public establishments of most interest.

In the central portion of the broad level plain, upon which the business population of Rio is located, the Quartel des Municipals Permanentes is found, with all the structures and conveniences for administering the affairs of the city.

The public offices of the ministers and officials of government of the empire are situated upon the western border of an open space, called the Praca de Acclamacão, or the Campo de Santa Anna. On the south side of this space is the neat and yet modest-looking Congress Hall of the deputies of the empire. On the north side, in connection with the densely populated portion of the city, stands the large museum, of which mention has already been made at a former date. The street running to the east of this campo has upon the opposite side a large number of stores, with several buildings, in which there are apartments for the public officials of the government.

In the middle of this grand plaza stands a large opera house, which is the great resort of the common people throughout the city.

This magnificent piece of ground, commonly called the campo, lies quite unimproved as yet; and the washerwomen of the vicinity congregate here to use the fountains of water with which it is supplied, and to spread out their clothes upon the green grass that covers its surface. It will ere long receive the attention of the authorities, and be laid out in walks and decorated with flowers and evergreens, and must become a very attractive resort for the pent-up population of this metropolital rendezvous of all the nations of earth. It is only recently that much interest has been manifested in ornamental public grounds, and the Botanic Gardens, with other more central spots of land, already show the taste of a progressive administration, in beautifying and adorning the rural loveliness of nature by the chaste hand of art.

The most elaborate improvement to be seen in the city of Rio is the exquisitely executed equestrian statue of Dom Pedro Primeira, which stands in the middle of the Praca da Constituicão. The first Emperor is represented in full military costume on horseback, and with the scroll of the constitution raised aloft in one hand, while the other grasps the reins of the bridle.

The pedestal has upon its four sides, respectively, four pairs of Indians, with animals and reptiles, representing the regions named upon the corresponding faces. This portion of the structure has inscribed upon it, likewise, the principal rivers of the empire, arranged with relation to the localities indicated; and thus affords a historic picture of the country, with its geographical features, brought into one interesting group.

The base is made of neatly-hewn granite, and comports admirably with the massive elegance of the whole device. There are two small reservoirs of water, with a “jet d’eau” at some distance from the statue, upon each side of the square; and the artificial vines and foliage, with colored flowers, look so true to nature, that persons are very prone to suppose they have grown in the water. The grounds are laid out with excellent taste, and enclosed by a neat iron fence, giving an air of completeness and uniqueness that is eminently becoming to the subject.

Notwithstanding this handsome testimonial to the first Emperor indicates that he had endeared himself to his people, so as to make them feel pride in honoring his memory, yet his policy was so contrary afterwards to the wishes of his subjects, that he was under the necessity of abdicating his throne, and left the country to end his days in Portugal.

His lineal descendant, the present Emperor, succeeded him, and entered upon the exercise of his high functions, having a regent to officiate in the performance of the responsible public duties of the empire at the outset, and subsequently administering all his business with the most enlightened regard for the interests of his people.

It must be a source of painful reflection to every Brazilian, in looking upon this statue, to think that the original could not be sustained by the people who had placed him in authority, and though, like Washington, he may live in the hearts of his countrymen, his grave rests not upon his own soil, as that of the great North American.

A communication was received quite unexpectedly, yesterday evening, from Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, inviting me to meet him this morning, at ten o’clock, at his house, number nine, Rua da Joanna.

Taking a hack, I proceeded to his residence at the time specified, and, upon entering, quite an awkward scene ensued, as neither understood the language of the other, and there was no interpreter present. Making an attempt to converse in French did not relieve our embarrassment, as my stock of the language was too limited to understand or to make myself understood in that tongue. At length, he wrote, at my suggestion, in French, that a gentleman who spoke English would arrive shortly to act as interpreter. Understanding this, I took a seat, and remained quietly until the interpreter came. Our intercourse being now made easy, he desired to know my views and wishes in regard to the measures that might promote the emigration of my friends to Brazil. I told him that the object of visit was to look for a home for my own family, and to make an examination of the country, with a view to report the result for the information of other families, whose unfortunate situation in the South induced them to desire a change of residence, and, in like manner with myself, hoped that a desirable location might be found in this country. He expressed a great desire to encourage the class of people to whom I referred, and said that he would take the matter at once into consideration, and devise a plan for assisting those who were desirous of coming to Brazil from the Southern States.

In the mean time, he proposed to render me all the aid in his power for a thorough examination of the country; and, as I had already concluded to visit the province of São Paulo, he informed me that a ticket would be furnished me to go by the steamer to-morrow to Santos, and that he would supply me with letters to the President of the province, and to other influential persons in different parts of the country. He told me that passage would be furnished likewise to an interpreter, if one could be secured, and that he would provide in like manner for any friend I might desire to accompany me on the expedition. He further stated, that under his direction to the President of the province, all the requisite facilities would be afforded to me by him, for my exploration of the lands lying in the interior of the province, and expressed a wish that I might find there a suitable location for myself and my friends.

I learned in the course of the conversation that the minister comes from the province of São Paulo; and, therefore, perhaps he feels more interest in giving encouragement to an investigation of that region, than if my examination was directed to some other quarter. My predilection for this locality being entirely independent of any partiality on the part of the minister, I will yet gladly avail myself of the advantages which may accrue from this fact, and with the offer of assistance in making a thorough exploration, I will, for the present, suspend all further action in regard to an appointment in the Hospital Department, and devote myself to this examination of the lands and resources of this fertile province.

The gentleman who acted as interpreter is the secretary of the Minister of Agriculture, and it was understood that he would bring to-morrow morning, to my quarters, the letters and other papers with which I am to be provided for making this tour of examination.

The ticket for passage upon the steamer was given to me to-day; and all the necessary indorsements and stamps put upon my passport at the treasury and police offices. I can now proceed with my personal preparations for getting off to-morrow, and will notify Major da Cunha of my leaving, so that he may take such steps as he may think proper, in regard to the paper which was to be prepared for the other mission. No calculation can be made as to the length of time I may be engaged in the examination of these lands, and my intention is to make a full report of all my observations, as a guide to my friends and others who may be interested in the resources of this country.

The residence of Senor Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, is in the precinct of São Christovão, and near the palace of the Emperor, where his family reside. But my pressing duties did not admit of any delay to visit the royal abode, and I must reserve the privilege of paying my respects to his majesty for a future occasion. I feel, however, no special inclination to wait upon the Emperor, unless business should require me to see him, and his time and patience are doubtless sufficiently taxed here with visits of mere formality. As he is absent at the seat of war just now, all the matters of business that would have taken me to see him will probably be disposed of by his ministers, and there will be no need to see him.^[9]

On the way to São Christovão, I passed the grand butcher pen of the city, which monopolizes the slaughtering of the cattle for the market. It is a large establishment, with spacious grounds, and a high cast-iron fence, having a gate of huge proportions with portals of hewn stone.

There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of ooze, by which the leather is tanned.

Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.

The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the improvements on the plain below.

Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.

We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr. Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me on arrival at the city of São Paulo.

My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me, whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to Santos.

The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but finished in all her parts with good taste.

The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and especially the change of plates for each different article that is eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time, indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as at dinner.

The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach, or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is expected to supply himself as far as practicable.

Persons who concluded their meals, and did not care to wait for those seated on the bench upon either side of them, crept under the table, and made their way out at the opposite side, where there was no wall to be encountered.

Wine is an invariable accompaniment of dinner, and after all is concluded, it is the custom to serve coffee without milk.

The custom of this country recognizes but two meals a day—breakfast being from eight to nine o’clock A. M., and dinner from four to five o’clock P. M. But it is usual to have a cup of coffee upon rising in the morning, and a cup of tea, with crackers or fancy cakes, is taken at night.

Tea is generally taken for breakfast by the Brazilians, and when I made inquiry at the breakfast table for a cup of coffee, it had to be made before it could be furnished. The cups here are exceedingly small, holding but little more than an ordinary wine-glass; and the coffee or tea is made strong in an increase ratio to the size of the receptacle, which suits my taste very well, as I have no fancy for long coffee, by which term the Brazilians style it when very weak.

My isolated position among strangers, whose language was unknown to me, was relieved by meeting aboard Senor Antonio de Barros, to whom I had been introduced at the house of the Minister of Agriculture. He speaks English, so as to carry on conversation very well, though he seems to be impressed with a sense of his deficiency in the use of the language. I found him quite kindly disposed, and in all respects a gentleman. He assisted me in making known my wants at the table, and on other occasions, giving me also a correct pronunciation of the few Portuguese words which I had acquired for necessary purposes. He proved to be a very genial and intelligent associate during the voyage, and gave me important items of information in regard to the province of São Paulo, in which he resides. He is a brother-in-law of Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, the Minister of Agriculture, and his father is Baron of Rerecicoba, so that his associations are the best of the land. Having received his education as an engineer in Germany, he speaks that language and French as well as his native tongue, the Portuguese. His knowledge of English has been obtained from teachers and reading, without any opportunity of associating with people speaking the language. Under these circumstances, I was surprised that he should have so good a pronunciation and conception of the English language.

There was a young Portuguese aboard of the steamer who also spoke some English, and manifested a disposition to assist me in getting a vocabulary of Portuguese words. His pronunciation of English, however, was very defective, and frequently I could not understand what he attempted to say to me, which made our intercourse rather embarrassing.

There was a sleight-of-hand operator on the vessel, who afforded considerable entertainment by his tricks, with a small ivory ball and a cup or stand with a cover, in which this and other articles would be placed and removed at will, without any one being able to detect the process.

Our steamer kept in sight of land throughout the entire route, and occasionally passed between an island of rock and the shore, giving a fine view on each side.

After a late breakfast, most of the passengers repaired to the deck, where comfortable seats were arranged for their accommodation. The atmosphere was quite cool, and with a brisk wind, I felt as if my overcoat would be acceptable, but being interested in the scenery I did not care to go below for the purpose of getting it, and I walked to and fro upon the deck, so as to keep my blood in active circulation. I was, perhaps, the only man who did not smoke, and most of them were using the cigarettes made of the corn husk, containing tobacco, which are very much in use here by all classes of people. In the Portuguese language this is called cigar, while our article of that name is called cherotte. The snuff is ordinarily called tobacco here, and the article for chewing fumo, thus changing all our terms in the Portuguese language.

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning, and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends. His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance. These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city; but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr. Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house. Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going, so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others in that section.

I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife; Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others having large estates that may be for sale.

Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his invitation, I of course accepted it.

Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement elsewhere, until I examine that locality.

Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo, and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate very much the transportation of products to this point; which will afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro. Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.

After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city, which cannot be noticed now.

In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the Anglo-Brazilian Times as voyaging through the country.

Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in advance of the regular hour.

All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses, the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M., and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for the bandboxes also.

At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot; yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles. He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.

The steep ascent of this mountain side is made by a zigzag road, which is cut from the slopes of the cliffs, and paved with stones. At some places there are precipices descending suddenly from the edge of the road to great depths, so as to make the traveller feel serious apprehensions for his passage along the rather narrow track of the road. I was told that mules have been sometimes forced over these abrupt edges into the awful gorge beneath, from the crowding of a large number into these narrow places, and their utter destruction is of course inevitable. There has been no instance, however, of any accident to the diligencia, which run this route from day to day; and hence a sort of guarantee of safety is afforded by this mode of conveyance, which is not felt upon the newly-constructed railroad line, which ascends the serra by inclined planes and stationary engines.

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge, to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain, which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath, with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those which were passed after getting into the diligence, it is a fair estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas ($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way from Santos to São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica, which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are particularly destructive.^[10]

Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden. With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body, and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia, and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr. Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them was found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment, and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late hours to suit my taste.