The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several years at school in Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit, and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.^[11]

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from this source, and accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar, who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that might render me service until my baggage should arrive by the cart of the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving, Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department, and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together by kindred feelings, as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords, and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house was open to me at all times.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton; when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience, that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit; and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed; and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr. Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons. Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in the evening, I proceeded with them to the lower apartment of the house, where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part to the comprehension of the others present.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter, as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals, however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would have been so much delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted, there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land, constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I can’t see them now.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have determined to send him a letter of thanks, expressing my obligations for the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the people.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill, and a well-constructed furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand, will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick, instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse, rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,) he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens, where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results compared with those of good lands.

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford, was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way, under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in attendance at each service were from the humbler class of society, and there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through his influence with the government.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr. Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely through, after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made, to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas, a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this line of railroad to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi, before 12 o’clock M.

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not likely to become a pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.

A few small patches of coffee tree were seen near the village which seemed in a thriving condition, and indicated a yield far beyond what might have been anticipated from the appearance of the soil. A change, however, in the land, seems to commence near this place, and it assumes here very much the aspect of red clay, but in some parts the sandy soil predominating, and all lying very irregular, except immediately upon the streams.

I was impressed with the adaptation of the Jundiahi river, a small stream which runs near our inn, for the location of machinery of limited water-power; and when the railroad reaches this place a good mill or cotton ginning establishment would be likely to prove very advantageous on this river. The fall is not very great, but could be arranged so as to afford all requisite power for this or some similar purpose.

Our quarters were so infested with fleas that I found it necessary to rise in the night and denude myself, so as to remove those that might be in my clothing. After this I returned naked to bed, and wrapping up in the sheet closely there was no further annoyance. This was an experiment with me, and it succeeded so well that I commend it to others when they may be thus unfavorably situated. The dirt floors of this house, and the swine around the doors, presented this nuisance; while our bedding and the outfit of the apartments were in very comfortable order, and clean.

At this point we overtook our camarada and pack-mules, which had been sent ahead of us. Getting a change of clothing from our baggage, the camarada was again sent in advance, so that his mules would not be required to travel as fast as we would ride. The train now consists of eight animals, and the mule upon which I am mounted makes nine, which is rather more than would be desirable to move together. Our baggage trains, consisting of four mules, two belonging to the camarada, and two of the government stock, which are very poor and weak, requires to move slowly, and can take more time by going forward while we stop, either for repose, or the examination of places of interest during the afternoon.

Moving off this morning at 8 o’clock, we proceeded about fourteen miles, and halted at the house of a German for two hours. This man had originally come into the country as a colonist of the government, and getting a little means had bought this place, paying fifteen hundred ($1500) dollars, for three hundred acres, with a dwelling and other improvements. Here the soil is evidently better than that below Jundiahi, and seems to be well adapted to the growth of corn and cotton. I saw here a specimen of the lint of the pina tree, which is a beautiful, silky-looking fibre, as white as cotton, and when mixed with it makes a beautiful fabric; but it has not strength of fibre when used alone to give proper texture to cloth. The pod is large and spherical, growing upon a tree which is very large and tall, and though the yield is generally abundant, the difficulty of procuring the lint is so great that very little is gathered. Eventually the pods fall to pieces upon the trees, and this fine silky cotton is blown broadcast through the forests. We got at this house a very good meal, consisting of Irish potatoes, corn bread, beans, farina, spare ribs, fried eggs, with a dessert of honey and sweet milk. Coffee was also served after dinner, as is the custom everywhere in the country, but I declined it, as all my available capacity was preoccupied by other things. After leaving this place, and proceeding towards Campinas, we began to see the successful culture of the coffee. The extensive plantations, extending with the greatest regularity as far as the eye could reach, presented a most attractive feature after passing the dreary waste for two previous days.

We saw at a point within two miles of Campinas some negroes engaged in loading a huge oxcart with the crude berries of the coffee, from an immense pile that had been gathered from the trees growing along the side of the road. The ground under the trees is raked clean preparatory to stripping the berries with the hand, and an immense broad flat receptacle made of the bamboo cane is placed under each tree, but what fails to fall in this is easily swept up from the smooth earth into a pile, and then taken up and put into the receptacle. These are emptied into piles convenient to the road, from which the coffee is hauled to the drying-yard, where it is spread out and watched carefully to guard it against rain. When dried it is submitted to a process for taking off the hull, and then fanned to clean it more thoroughly, or even by some submitted to cleansing by washing.

Having turned off from the main road to Campinas, we were accommodated with quarters at the antiquated-looking fazenda of Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, who resides in São Paulo, and gave us a letter to his administrator at this place, with the expectation that we would stop here a few days.

After being shown around the premises, Mr. Bennaton and I walked through the back yard into the grove of orange trees in the garden, where we found only bitter sweets that were not desirable to eat. When we returned the old administrator (another word for overseer) expressed himself as not being satisfied with our going into the back yard without notifying him, and there being two single daughters on the premises was doubtless the cause of his concern about our visit. All these people, who have not been in contact with the outside world, think it a solemn duty to keep their females in great seclusion. It may be that this old fellow was afraid we might get a peep at the girls, while perambulating his back yard. They have not however been seen as yet, and, unless affording a remarkable contrast to the appearance of their father, it is not likely they will afford much attraction to the gaze of the curious. With every thing about the house of plain style, we are very comfortably fixed, with a large airy room, and two sleeping-apartments.

The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches, that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee, and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand, after which another drying process completes the preparations for market.

I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo, and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary exemplification of the mechanical adaptation of means to an end; but I could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam, which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.

The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water, renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would beat dough finely.