Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture and plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named. Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my anticipations.

Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined, there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me to feel easy in his presence.

He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant, but courtesy demanded that something be taken.

The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully; but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor. These are also neatly furnished.

A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also at hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more invigorating.

A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and, apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most tasteful style.

The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country, is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room. Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much. Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any difficulty.

After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty years, it is found to be important to their production that the land should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to enrich it.

There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from transplanting.

A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.

This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is practicable, and all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the culture of this country.

The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year, standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.

Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough, which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few years.

The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it is to be encountered.

The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality which has been under cultivation, but is thrown out to rest and recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it continues to be productive.

My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to get information as to the different qualities of soil and their productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a judicious selection of territory for my friends.

At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth. The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue. It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative work by cabinet makers.

The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which has just been completed in the most elaborate style.

A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the axle with the other portions of the wagon or cart is not usually lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary accompaniment to their carts.

At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was repealed.

Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some four or five hundred yards off.

Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in social intercourse.

As the apparatus here embodies all the most recent improvements for treating the coffee, it will be described with some minuteness. It is what is styled a “despolpidor,” and receives the coffee directly from the tree, without any preliminary process of drying, and even while the berries are yet red, previous to their becoming black. This saves much trouble which attends other processes, and enables the coffee-grower to gather his crops earlier than when it is required to dry upon the tree, or to be dried after gathering, prior to cleaning.

The coffee brought directly from the trees is placed first in a receptacle built with brick and cement, containing water; which not only washes the berries, but floats them forward with a current that runs from this tank by a small trough to another receiver, which constitutes the despolpidor.

In this there is a revolving cylinder of brass or copper, which has the surface roughened like a blacksmith’s rasp; and as the coffee passes into the cavity where this revolves, it comes in contact with this rough exterior surface, and the outside hull of the berry is detached, and the investing membrane of each separate grain is more or less torn, but not entirely separated. This being accomplished, the hulls drop out at a waste-way, and the grains are carried below with the water into a large reservoir. Here there are arms or sweeps of wood revolving upon a central shaft, and constantly stirring and agitating the coffee in the water, as it passes with the current to the most dependent portion. There it is subjected to a percolating process of washing by the passage of the water through it, and out below through a perforated plate. From this it is dipped up by a system of cups or buckets, such as is used for elevating flour in our bolting apparatus, and is deposited in a large cemented reservoir, from which any remaining water is drained off through perforations in the bottom. The coffee is now taken out to be subjected to the drying process for the first and only time.

The yard for drying the coffee, called “tereiro,” is a neatly paved, level space, with a number of divisions for receiving the coffee in the different stages of drying. This being laid with glazed tile, and entirely free from dust or other impurity, that can affect the clean grains of coffee, the drying is accomplished in the most satisfactory manner.

As a portion of the investment of each grain remains attached to it after it is completely dry, the process of fanning has still to be resorted to; and in this unique establishment two fans are connected, so as to receive the coffee one from the other; and the last so arranged with a sieve of graduated openings, that the large, fine grains of coffee are separated from the smaller and imperfect grains. All being now entirely clean and assorted, it is ready for sacking.

The house in which this entire machinery is arranged is not exceeding twenty-five feet square; and though there are three different elevations, in which different stages of the work are conducted, yet but one floor is required in the building. This compact and nicely-adjusted apparatus does great credit to the energy and enterprise of the proprietor; and though he has received many suggestions from other establishments, there is, perhaps, no single coffee-mill in Brazil that combines so much efficiency and economy of labor in treating this great staple. I would therefore urge those who may be entering upon this business to make a visit to Settequéda, even should it be two hundred miles distant, so as to get the details of this establishment.

The coffee treated in this way has a value in the market of from five to ten per cent. above that cleaned by the ordinary process; and when a fine article is desired for family use, it will command in Brazil a higher price than any of the coffee shipped to the United States ever brings in that market. I am informed here, that none of the finest specimens of coffee are shipped from Brazil to the United States, as the merchants will not pay the prices at which they sell in Rio de Janeiro. But these fine lots of coffee find a market in England, and consequently all the best coffee takes that channel of trade. We are accustomed, in the United States, to think that it is mere talk as to the superiority of the living in England; yet, undoubtedly, their progress in manufactures and arts is not without a proportionate advancement in what pertains to comfort in their households, and to gratification of taste at their tables.

We took our leave of Settequéda this morning, and the gentlemanly proprietor rode with us to an adjoining fazenda belonging to his sister.

Here we had an exemplification of another process for hulling the coffee, and next in importance to that we have described as being effected by the despolpidor. It consists in the use of the mortar and pestle, after the manner adopted in the rice mills of South Carolina.

A number of mortars being excavated from a solid trunk of wood, and thus placed side by side in a row, constitutes the first element. Next, pestles for each mortar are arranged, with upright pieces of timber, having an aperture of about two and a half feet long, and two inches in width; and these are set in a frame so as to preserve a perpendicular position. The final appliance is a shaft, with arms extending so as to catch in these apertures at each revolution, and raising the pestle a certain distance, the arm slips again from the aperture, and the pestle falls into the mortar, thus by its weight pounding the coffee. These arms are so arranged that a portion of the pestles are elevated at each arc of the circle of revolution; so the work is continuous, under the operation of the water-power by which the machinery is put in motion. By this process the hull is very effectually broken and detached from the grain, but then the use of a ventilator is requisite to separate the grains and larger portions of the hull, and the sieve is required with the blowing of the operation, while the coffee is thrown up in the air time after time, to clean out all foreign matter.

In coming out from the examination of the working of the coffee we were regaled with some very fine oranges, which were the more prized because almost out of season in this region. There were also some fine specimens of the Mamão, a fruit which has its name from the supposed resemblance to the female breast. It grows upon the tree in clusters near the trunk, or, in a different species, upon long pendulous branches extending out some distance from the body of the tree. It is nearly as large as a small cantelope, and resembles in color and taste the mushmelon.

As we were leaving this place Dom Vaz, of Campinas, was met at the gate, and introduced to us by Senor Bonifacio. He was coming, as we supposed, upon a professional visit, and was mounted upon a very fine mule, which is the most usual and most efficient means of transportation in this country. I was impressed with his intelligent and sprightly appearance, with a characteristic energy and activity in his manner, though perhaps fifty years of age. I learned he formerly resided in Rio de Janeiro, but not having good health there he removed to the city of Campinas, and has, in a few years, secured a large and profitable business in his profession as a physician.

On our way back to our quarters we overtook Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa Aranha, to whom a letter was delivered from Senor Dom Bernardo Gaveão. It was read, and then he extended his hand, expressing his satisfaction at making my acquaintance. His physiognomy is the most demure, and his manner the least demonstrative, of any gentleman that I have yet seen.

He was the last President of the House of Deputies of the Provincial Assembly, and there may be a great deal in this grave exterior, proving that deep water runs smooth. Upon reaching his house, he offered us whatever we might choose from his enumerated assortment of drinks. Mr. Bennaton indicated ale, and this, with porter, was produced upon a waiter by a negro. I was now particularly struck with an illustration of the sentiment, that “Actions speak louder than words,” on the part of our host; who, instead of ordering a cork-screw, made a twisting motion of the hand, and a look in the direction from which he expected it to be brought. This was understood, and the article brought accordingly to open the bottles.

Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the crib.

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us, and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio, in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne, the most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and, for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair. This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is an average yield.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of architectural taste in the cities of the United States. Yet there are a number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church. The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there was nothing to attract within.

But the specimens of exquisite carving in native wood of the country present the most elegant and delicate workmanship that the world can produce. It seems as if the genius of some other land had been transformed to this city to give a fancy sketch which might seem to elevate the taste of the people. All the work is not yet completed, and there were several artisans engaged in carving out figures from the rough pieces of wood. But there seems to be no general movement towards finishing the work, and the general aspect of the exterior of the building is that of a ruin, rather than the progressive improvement of a growing structure.^[12]

The common people in all these interior towns look as if they had little to do, and less to think about, and it evidently afforded considerable curiosity to men and women as we passed through the city.

Most of the better class of women confine themselves closely to their houses, or, if seen upon the street, have their heads covered with the hood of a cloak which envelops their persons. But a more numerous class of females err on the other extreme; and with bare heads and bare arms, their natural developments are open to all observers. There is a style adopted very generally by this class, of having only the chemise on the body, and a skirt about the waist, thus bringing parts into view which modesty prompts most females to conceal with great care.

This free and easy apparel is also adopted by the female servants that are seen about the inns or hospedarias for the accommodation of travellers; and while it may do for a negro woman employed at washing or other duties, I am surprised that the white women, who have any self-respect, should appear in public, thus loosely attired about their breasts.

It is not uncommon on the route we came through the country, to see the Portuguese and negroes accompanying the troops of pack-mules without a shirt. Though they are provided with this garment, it is thrown across the mule upon which the man is mounted, or tied around his waist, and thus the sun comes in direct contact with the skin. This kind of exposure cannot be comfortable, and it cannot be necessary for the free use of the arms when no labor is performed, yet they seem to have a partiality for stripping to the buff in this way. Common decency in the United States would forbid this sort of public denuding of the person, but here it is a part of the programme of this kind of life, and is not noticed by those accustomed to the habits of the country, so far as respects this class of people.

On the contrary of the view here given, it will be found that the Brazilian gentleman is quite as circumspect in regard to his person as respects exposure and cleanliness as the most fastidious taste would exact.

The lands lying along the road after leaving the immediate vicinity of Campinas were not found under such fine cultivation, and we saw again signs of the copina, which throws up its mounds of earth in almost every abandoned field of this country.

We stopped about noon at one of the roadside inns and got our horses fed, while we waited leisurely for dinner to be prepared for us. Resting until 4 o’clock P. M., the voyage was resumed, and riding twelve miles, we stopped for the night at the hospedaria of Ponte Atibaia. Here we had condiments with our supper and fared well in all respects.^[13]

All hands were around this morning at half-past four o’clock, to prepare for the road, and coffee was ordered while we dressed. Each of the party seemed to have put on his best outfit in view of the day, and the fact that Ybicaba was our destination. Even our camarada had put on a neat white shirt and boots, whereas he had heretofore been barefooted, as is the custom with this class of men on most occasions.

It presents quite an odd spectacle to see one of these fellows mounted upon a mule with bare feet, and a huge pair of spurs strapped about his ankles. His stirrups are purposely small, so as to receive but two or three toes, and when they have rode a great deal, quite a space is formed between the toes, by the constant pressure of the stirrup. My inference in regard to thus having the stirrups so small is, to prevent the possibility of the entire foot being caught in the stirrups in case a man is thrown from his mule, as it certainly cannot be for comfort or convenience, either in mounting or riding with the bare feet.

The negro servants here much more frequently wear shoes than the Portuguese camaradas or troupeiros, and the boy Joaquim who accompanies Mr. Bennaton is well-dressed, and keeps himself neat and clean at all times. He is out this morning with white pants and his hair combed and braided in the most approved darkey style. He is beginning to understand my little phrases of the Portuguese language, and seems disposed to render me any assistance or service required.

When we set out this morning, shortly after five o’clock, it was not yet clear daylight, and the atmosphere was quite cool, rendering our overcoats indispensable for comfort. Indeed they have been used every morning until 9 o’clock, but after that hour it becomes warm, and from 12 o’clock until 3 o’clock in the afternoon the sun is oppressively hot. The heat here, however, is not greater than is experienced in the United States during the summer months, and the temperature of this climate at night is invariably more pleasant than in the Southern States.

All well know that the winter in the United States is during those months which constitute the summer of Brazil; and vice versa, so that, now, while it is becoming colder north of the equator, the heat is increasing in this southern latitude.

Thus far, less inconvenience has been experienced from the heat than was anticipated, and but for the protracted drought, which has parched the earth, and retarded vegetation of every kind in this section, the atmosphere would now be more agreeable during the middle of the day.

It is no part of my plan to eulogize the climate, or any other feature of this country, except as the facts may warrant a favorable estimate. Having an opportunity to judge of the nature of the climate in the latter part of winter and spring, with the forthcoming summer, I may determine with some certainty what will be its effects upon people from our latitude, by my personal experience.

The range of the thermometer as yet has not exceeded 85° Fahrenheit; and the sensible influence of the sun is not greater than I have experienced at a corresponding season in South Carolina and Georgia.

Most of the region of country through which we passed to-day consisted of plateau land rather sparsely timbered with large trees, and some of it resembled the low lands a short distance from the banks of our rivers. This was overgrown with shrubbery and bamboo cane, and having a growth of small trees interspersed with large timber. The general aspect of the surface was that of an undulating plain, but occasionally we encountered a ravine of considerable depth, making the descent and ascent rather difficult for our animals, and almost impracticable for carts or wagons.

The supply of water was more deficient upon our route to-day than upon any part of the road travelled heretofore; and however desirable land might be here, the difficulty of procuring an adequate supply of water, either for drinking or for machinery, would be a serious objection.

Twelve miles from our starting point we entered the town of Lemeire, which has sprung up within a few years to a respectable size. Some of the houses presented a very good appearance, but the usually dull aspect of these mud-built houses gives a monotony to all these interior towns which may excuse any detailed notice.

Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise well adapted to the growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in this crop.

At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me, and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.

I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly disposed, and very dignified in her manner.

We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr. Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but there was only a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or for market.

Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr. Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy, as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.

In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty outfit.

Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)

Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.

We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.

The first step is to remove the outer hull of the berries, and for this purpose he employs four dispolpadores, such as described at Settequéda, each being capable of hulling five hundred bushels of the crude berries in a day, making two thousand in a day when all are fully employed. Not having a supply of water sufficient to move the machinery, or to float the coffee into the apparatus, it has to be washed before going into the dispolpadores if it should be dirty, and it may then be put in while wet. After the hull is removed, the coffee grains having still their separate investment, are dried in the ample tile-covered yard that is adjoining the building. The cleaning process is conducted by two large fans, and if any of the smaller grains slip through the sieve of the fan without being entirely cleaned, they are submitted to hand sieves. Thus, all the coffee is prepared for sacking. The specimens seen in the building were entirely free from dust or any foreign matter, and the proprietor states will command from two to five cents per pound more than the rolled or pounded coffee.

The store-room contains an immense amount of uncleaned coffee, and the crop made on this place this year is reckoned at fifty thousand arrobas, or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of clean coffee. This is below the annual average crop, and Senor Vergueiro thinks the blooming trees indicate a larger yield for the next crop.

This coffee milling establishment is upon a much larger scale than that of Settequéda, but there are a number of conveniences and improvements in the latter, which the want of water does not admit here.

There is a saw-mill adjoining the coffee-mill, which is run by a separate engine of four horse-power, and performs very satisfactorily with a perpendicular saw.

In addition to these there is a cotton-gin, and packing apparatus under the same roof.

An American cotton-gin of seventy saws is run by the same engine, of eight horse-power, which works the coffee machinery. The compress or packing apparatus is a pattern which has been in use for some years in the United States, but is made upon a small scale to pack bales of ninety-six pounds for transportation upon pack-mules.

The gin and compress were brought from Santos upon wagons drawn by oxen.

The ordinary hemp bagging is used here for covering the cotton, and the sepo vine, which grows in this country abundantly, makes an admirable substitute for roping. It is very unyielding, and being smooth, with a facility for knotting, it fulfils all the indications completely and economically.

The hull of the coffee, and the cotton seed, with the refuse from the saw-mill, have constituted the fuel for the steam-engine, thus wasting the cotton seed that might be made very profitable, either by converting them into oil, or for manure. Upon bringing these matters to the attention of Senor Vergueiro, he expressed his intention to cease this destructive policy; and until he may be able to procure an apparatus for the manufacture of the cotton seed oil, he proposes to accumulate his seed, when it will be convenient to pour water upon them, if it should not rain sufficient to wet them, and thus rot them for manure.

A blacksmith shop and a woodshop are in very successful operation, making his own wagons, and machinery for all the purposes of his extensive establishment; and all of good quality.

A large and well-arranged brickyard is brought into requisition for the manufacture of brick, tiles, and earthen pipes, that are demanded about the place; and his fazenda being within itself a village, the consumption of these articles is very considerable throughout the year.

The negro quarters are adjoining the residence of the family, and enclose a large court, in the centre of which is a belfry, and a lock-up for such as become unruly. There is a hospital department, with an office, where medicine is dispensed by the physician when his visits are required.

The stables are large and well-arranged for feeding, and the stalls are substantially floored with sawed plank, while there is an upper story for hay.

A spacious and neat fowl-house has recently been constructed, connected with an open grass lot, having a supply of water for the poultry.

The old coffee-mill and saw-mill, moved by water-power, are still preserved in good running order on the place.

After dinner to-day we were supplied with fine saddle horses, and accompanied Senor Vergueiro over his wide domain of a million coffee trees and fine cotton lands. We rode rapidly over miles of winding roads through the fields of coffee, stopping here and there to examine some feature of special interest, either in the mode of management or the development of the trees. Some had been growing there for twenty-six years that still presented a vigorous appearance and afforded a good yield of coffee this season. Others that were thirty-four years old have been cut off eighteen inches above the ground, two years since, and have again put forth branches, which present all the aspects of thriving trees. They have borne a crop of coffee this season, and the blooms afford a fine prospect for another year. This is a very interesting feature in the management of the old trunks of the coffee, as the advantages of a new growth are secured in one-half the time it could be attained from a new plant. Even should the root require to be dug around and manured, it would be far preferable to the uncertainty connected with the growth of a new plant; and in lands of good quality it certainly presents great advantages.

The stumps of the cotton stalk were also seen during our ride, which had recently been cut off for the purpose of securing the growth of another crop. There is a perennial growth of the cotton plant in this latitude, from the absence of frost; and by simply cutting away the limbs in the early spring another development ensues, which produces a larger yield than the first crop; and it is supposed that it may be cut off again at the end of the second year, and produce for the third time a full crop of cotton.

Thus the risks attending the sprouting and the early growth of the plant are avoided here; and as the evidence is conclusive that the yield of the second year is superior to that of the first, the advantages for the culture of cotton in this country gives it a preference to the southern part of the United States. The additional element of slave labor here is likely to afford results that cannot be secured by hired labor in the Southern States; and so soon as the negroes have become acquainted with the proper mode of working the cotton, we may anticipate yields of this staple exceeding any that have ever been realized in the United States.

The production of cotton here already is stated to reach two thousand pounds of seed cotton to the acre; and if this is a uniform yield of good land with good culture it is a decided success. There is not so much labor bestowed upon the plant here as in the Southern States, and the hoe is the only implement employed in the culture of this, or any thing else. It will appear marvellous to our heroic cotton planters that no preparatory ploughing is done, and that not even a hoe is used in planting the seed. The process, as I observed it here, consists in a negro scratching a place in the ground with his hand, and making three or four holes with the end of a stick, into which seeds of cotton are dropped and covered with the hand. This is done at distances of two and a half feet, and sticks of wood or pieces of cane are stuck into the ground to mark the place, and by this means to preserve right lines for the rows. Note this, ye planters of cotton in the Southern States, and think how painstaking you are to develop the growth of cotton in its several stages; yet here, in Brazil, it grows and matures well without culture of any kind. If cotton can be relied upon here to yield an average crop without labor, what may be expected from proper preparation of the soil for receiving the seed, and thorough working of the ground during the early growth of the plant.

Finding that the root of the cotton remained in the ground during the winter without injury, Senor Vergueiro supposed an advantage might be gained by planting the cotton seed during the winter, so that it might sprout up and commence growing in the earliest portion of the spring. He planted accordingly a considerable piece of ground in the month of May, which is in this latitude very nearly as November in the State of Louisiana. The prospect is quite unfavorable from present appearance of the plants, and he expects to replant the land, with the exception of a small space, to test fully the experiment. Had he known how much depends upon the disappearance of all frost, and the warming of the earth under the genial suns of the spring, as a preliminary to cotton planting, in the land where experience is the guide to success, this experiment would not have been necessary to convince him that nothing could be gained by the planting of the seed in the cold season, though there might be no frost to kill the plant.

Senor Vergueiro deserves great credit, however, for the boldness and energy with which he has urged forward his improvements, and others are now profiting by his enterprise in the domain of agriculture and the arts.

He produces all the corn requisite to raise hogs for his consumption, and also for a large number of horses and mules, keeping a pack of the latter to assist in transporting his coffee to market. He cures a considerable amount of hay for the use of his animals in winter, when the grass does not grow so abundantly; and I have heard of no other person in the country who gives any attention to haymaking.

Thus we find this fazendeiro combines all the various interests that conduce to the comfort of his family and the welfare of the large number of colonists and slaves who are dependent upon him for supplies. His extensive fazenda is emphatically a self-sustaining establishment, and he lives within himself to a very large extent. He grows his own beef and mutton, as well as his hogs, and his table is always supplied with the best that is found anywhere in the country.

Of course, there are many things which must come from other parts, and he avails himself of all the importations that may render a household comfortable, or a table desirable. Though hams are not cured here, the finest was found upon his table; and though flour comes from abroad, the choice varieties of flour bread, as well as other kinds, showed the domestic management of the estimable senhora most satisfactorily.