Tradition says that when Maita-Ccapac first led his army across the Apurimac River, some of his soldiers were so enchanted by the attractions of the country, especially the picturesque valley above which the snowy summit of the Misti glistens among the clouds, that they asked the Inca’s permission to remain. “Ari, Quepay!” responded their lord, “Very well,—Remain here!” and from this exclamation is derived the name of the beautiful city that now brightens the valley at the foot of the Misti,—Arequipa. In order to appreciate the full beauty of the site chosen as a permanent home by the soldiers of Maita-Ccapac, it is necessary to have traversed the arid desert of shifting, crescent-shaped sanddunes that separate it from the Pacific, or to have journeyed across the barren puna that stretches out between this fertile valley and the farther slopes of the Cordilleras. Contrast heightens the charm of the scene that spreads out in matchless beauty, as the white city appears in the midst of its fresh, radiant campiña, and one can appreciate the enthusiasm with which poetic travellers have described it as “a pearl in an emerald setting” and “a dove in an emerald nest.”

Behind the city, rising above the valley like the walls of an amphitheatre, are three majestic peaks, Pichu-pichu to the east, Chacchani to the north, and the white-crested Misti in the centre; and far in the distance, beyond the valley, the snowy summit of Coropuna, more than twenty thousand feet high, towers like a distant sentinel guarding the approach to some sacred shrine. But it is the Misti that dominates the scene, as one approaches the lovely valley. The grandeur and sublimity of this noble peak lies not only in its altitude, over nineteen thousand feet, but in its clear-cut conical form and in the mantle of snow that perpetually crowns its summit. There is little about its appearance to suggest the terrible explosions of flame and lava which once burst from its crater, and the only fire the imagination can associate with its pure white summit, is that of the altar of worship. What an ideal temple it would have been for the Virgins of the Sun!

The Misti has its legends—what volcano has not?—and we are told the reason why its fire is now quenched and its red mouth sealed with snow. Ages ago, when it was a monster of destructive passion, scorching with its hot breath and poisoning with its venomous lava all the beautiful things of the valley, the Children of the Sun complained to their celestial father, beseeching him to stifle the evil genius and save them from his malevolence. The Sun, the father of goodness, irritated by the giant’s wickedness, drowned him in his own liquid fire, and sealed the top of the Cerro with a wafer of snow, more impenetrable than granite, so that the monster might nevermore be able to breathe, in case some evil spirit were to try to bring it back to life. Another legend says that St. Thomas, when preaching in this region, was so indignant at the presumption of this thing of fire and destruction, that he threw his sandal into its crater, whereupon the colossus was calmed and made incapable of any further mischief. The beautiful valley, released from slavery to the whims of a cruel tyrant, has ever since shown gratitude to heaven for its salvation by rendering every service to mankind that abundant fertility could compass.

Leaving the fascinating realm of tradition for the more reliable ground of history, one finds that the present city of Arequipa was founded by Garcia Manuel de Carvajal, under Pizarro’s orders, in the year 1540, and that it was christened Villa Hermosa, “Beautiful City”—a name as appropriate to-day as when the lovely spot was chosen. Situated at an altitude of eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, this paradise of green gardens and sunny skies is an ideal place of residence for those who seek a healthful climate and the blessings of perpetual spring.

One of the motives that decided Pizarro to choose the base of the Misti as a site for the construction of a colonial city was expressed in his formal authorization, which set forth that, in the ten months that the Spaniards had lived there, none of their number had died, though they formed a considerable settlement. Favored by the circumstances that bountiful Nature and human industry contributed to the new city from the period of its foundation, Arequipa grew and flourished, and in the time of the Viceroy Toledo, it received by the royal decree of King Philip II. the honorable title of “very noble and very loyal.” A notable compliment was paid to the ladies of Arequipa in this decree, which compared them to the Roman matrons in devotion and self-sacrifice, praising the spirit shown in the giving up of their jewels to raise a royal donation, a few years before.

Arequipa is a “white city,” built of native stone from the inexhaustible quarries of the Misti. The stone is of volcanic formation, white, porous, and easily chiselled; in the older edifices, which were constructed during the time of the viceroyalty, the façades are exquisitely carved in designs as fine as lace work, showing how well this stone lends itself to the beauties of decorative architecture. Owing to the numerous earthquakes which have visited Arequipa in the past, it is the custom to build only one and two-story structures, the walls being sometimes more than three feet in thickness. Many of the houses are built with a vaulted roof, the arch offering greatest resistance to the destructive force of seismic convulsions. As there is plenty of space available, the most costly residences cover a considerable area, having large patios, or interior courts, which are paved with ornamental tiles, and arranged with handsome jardinières of plants and flowers. Some of the patios are beautified with trees and a flower garden, while others have an artistic fountain in the midst. Arequipa has not yet reached the period of congested thoroughfares and a population that can be accommodated only by means of “skyscrapers.” These huge towers with little more than pigeon-holes for rooms, which are among the necessary evils of overcrowded modern centres, are still unknown to the city of the emerald ceinture.

Arequipa is built on the banks of the river Chili, its streets stretching out in all directions to the campiña, or green country fields surrounding it. As in all Spanish-American cities the principal square is the centre from which radiates the activity of the population. It is popularly called the Plaza Mayor, and bears the official name of Plaza de Armas, or “Military Plaza.” In Arequipa, the Plaza de Armas presents a particularly attractive appearance, the Cathedral, which extends along one side of this square, being a magnificent and imposing edifice, while the arched portales that overlook the remaining three sides are picturesque examples of colonial architecture.

The Cathedral is one of the oldest and most interesting temples of Catholic America. Nearly three hundred years ago the decree was issued for its construction, by Pope Paul IV., though it was not until the time of his successor, Pope Paul V., that the work was begun, during the reign of King Philip III, in 1612. The temple was built in accordance with the custom of those days, the decorations of its arches and columns being elaborate and of costly workmanship. Altars of cedar, carved in beautiful design, were subsequently replaced by those of silver, the abundance of this precious metal resulting in its lavish use for the decoration of all the churches and convents of the viceroyalty. The chancel occupied the centre of the chief nave and its seats were of finest cedar, their carved backs showing in high relief the effigies of the twelve apostles and other saints. In the sacristy were preserved many rich treasures, consecrated vases of gold, sacerdotal vestments of rare value, and a collection of portraits of all the bishops of Arequipa from the earliest days. Many of these priceless possessions were destroyed by fire in 1844, when everything perishable succumbed to the flames that wrapped the great edifice in a lurid sheet. The silver of the altars ran over the floor in a molten stream, all efforts to save the precious ornaments being futile. The rebuilding of the sacred structure took twenty years, and was little more than completed when a terrible earthquake visited the city, in 1868, which, however, damaged the Cathedral only slightly;—a proof of its excellent and solid construction, since the shock was terrific and prolonged and resulted in much loss of property.

The Cathedral of Arequipa is one of the most admirable specimens of church architecture in America. Its façade measures four hundred and fifty feet in length; three entrances, and the support of seventy columns of composite Ionic and Doric style, give a magnificent appearance to the edifice. The peculiar advantage offered by its location—dominating a spacious plaza—enhances the imposing effect of its splendid architecture, which would have been dwarfed, from an artistic point of view, in a less commanding site. The interior of the temple is divided into three naves, separated by superb columns that support the great arches above with harmonious effect. The main altar piece is of marble and the pulpit is a work of superior art in carved wood. There is an atmosphere of rest and peace within the walls of this noble edifice that is felt not only by the pious worshipper who seeks this consecrated place for the purpose of prayer, but even by the indifferent passer-by, attracted within by the music of the splendid choir, or by the artist’s appreciation of the beautiful.

Of earlier origin than the Cathedral, the construction of the church of the Jesuits was begun in the sixteenth century, though it was not until a hundred years later that its vaulted roof was finished. It is one of the celebrated churches of Peru, both for its architectural importance and its interesting history. The Dominican friars founded their convent in Arequipa in 1582, and the present temple of Santo Domingo is among the principal churches of the city. Nearly all the religious orders were represented here during the viceroyalty, the Convent of Mercy having been founded in 1548, while the existing edifice was built nearly two hundred and fifty years ago. The Franciscans established their first convent in Arequipa in 1552, the church of this order at present being one of the largest and most beautiful in the city. There are three nunneries here, Santa Catalina, Santa Teresa, and Santa Rosa.

The social life of the Arequipeña—the lady of Arequipa—is essentially that of a refined, gracious, and charitable Christian, who esteems it her greatest pleasure, as well as duty, to attend to the demands of religion, and to extend to the sick and the needy the gentle kindness which is characteristic of her, whether in the salon, the charity ward, or the abode of suffering. The Orphans’ Asylum of Arequipa reflects this spirit of kindness in its appearance and administration. It occupies a spacious building, and connected with it are large gardens where the children may run and play in the hours of recreation. About four hundred children are accommodated in this institution, which is one of the charges of the Benevolent Society. Under the same administration, the Hospital of San Juan de Dios provides care and comfort to the suffering poor, its matron and nurses belonging to the world-renowned order, the Sisters of Charity. The new hospital is a credit to the enterprise as well as the charitable spirit of the people, who have contributed to make it one of the notable institutions of the country.

The schools of Arequipa, as well as its churches and charities, are an indication of the refinement of its people and their appreciation of the advantages of culture. The University of Arequipa has always been an important centre of learning, presided over by men of illustrious talents, and the various colleges of the city rank among the first in Peru. The Colegio de la Independencia is a celebrated institution, having trained for the service of the republic some of its greatest statesmen. It was in Arequipa that the patriot Gonzalez Vigil learned how to thrill the hearts of his hearers by his earnest and impassioned appeals in favor of justice and liberal government; and he was one of many who came from the schools of Arequipa to join their compatriots in the struggle for good government that followed the inauguration of the republic. The progress of education is as marked in the schools devoted to the instruction of girls as in the boys’ colleges. The Colegio de Señoritas, which is under the administration of the community of Our Lady of the Rosary, and is directed by the Reverend Mother Elena Chaves Delgado, is one of the best educational institutions of Peru. It was founded in 1870 by the Reverend Mother, and for the past ten years it has been under the present administration, the avowed object of the school being “the religious, moral, and scientific improvement of the attendants and the instruction and education of the girls, in accordance with Catholic doctrine and morality, and conforming to the general rules of public instruction.” A notable and admirable feature of the Colegio de Señoritas is the practical character of the education provided. It has been the constant aim of the college to instil into the hearts of its pupils a love of virtue and habits of industry; not only are the girls taught the lessons of books, but they are given an opportunity to learn by practice all the duties of a household, and are prepared to earn a livelihood should the necessity occur.

In importance, the second city in Peru, Arequipa is the capital of the department of the same name, and an important commercial as well as political and social centre. The administration of the department is in the hands of the prefect, Dr. Ximenes, whose authority extends to all its provinces and municipalities. He is well known in political circles for his progressive and enterprising ideas, and his government has been one of steady improvement and development. The department is divided into seven provinces: Arequipa, of which the chief city is the capital of the department; Islay, with its chief city, Mollendo; Cailloma, with its capital of the same name; Castilla, of which Aplao is the capital; Condesuyos, having Chuquibamba as its political centre; Union, extending north to the Department of Apurimac and dividing the Departments of Ayacucho and Cuzco, with Cotahuasi its capital; and the province of Camaná, stretching along the coast from Ica to the province of Islay: the city of Camaná, named after the province, of which it is the capital, and the city of Mollendo, are, together with Chala and Quilca, the principal ports of the State. Mollendo is a modern city, connected with Arequipa by railway, and is a stopping place for all the steamers of the Pacific and the South American Companies between Valparaiso and Panamá, as well as numerous other lines.

The local interests of the city of Arequipa are governed by the Provincial Council, or Municipality. The present authorities have given especial attention to the improvement of the city, devoting earnest efforts to the carrying out of important public works. The previous council constructed new portales in the principal plaza, built the Grau bridge over the river Chili, established the water works system by which the city is supplied from Yumina, two leagues distant, and accomplished other reforms. The existing council is making notable improvements in the beautification of the Plaza de Armas; is constructing a new market building suitable to the growing needs of the city; and is perfecting the drainage system. The streets have been improved and many of them newly paved; Bolognesi Park is now a more charming paseo than ever; and a new electric street railway is to be established, which will connect the city with its beautiful suburbs. The municipality pays especial attention to public health, and the sanitation of the city is in charge of competent authorities who spare no effort to ensure the most healthful conditions. The city and its picturesque suburbs, Yanaguara and Tingo, are lighted by electricity.

Good roads are maintained throughout the department, and it is a pleasant journey to visit the various points of interest in the vicinity of Arequipa, which is surrounded by charming resorts for health and pleasure. Tingo, Zemarrat, and Sabandia are noted not only for their picturesque scenery but for the attractive appearance of their streets and gardens.

The thermal waters of Arequipa are celebrated throughout the Pacific Coast, the springs of Yura and the Aguas de Jesus being known to everyone familiar with this region. The latter are located about a league from the city, on the slope of one of the cerros belonging to a chain that begins between the Misti and the Pichu-pichu and extends as far as Paucarpata, just east of the capital. It is a pleasant outing to visit the Aguas de Jesus, and many parties make the trip, to enjoy the scenery along the route, which is superb, and to take advantage of the beneficial waters. The spring is enclosed in a stone building, and is under the direction of the Benevolent Society. Yura, which is two hours’ train journey from Arequipa, is a popular health resort, not only for the people of the capital but of all Peru. Its baths are famous for their curative qualities, and are of different kinds, including sulphurous and ferruginous, which possess wonderful properties. Their fame increases constantly as the remarkable benefits derived from their use by citizens and travellers become known.

At a short distance from the city, on the slope of the Misti, the Astronomical Observatory of Harvard University is situated. This scientific institution was founded eighteen years ago, in order to enable astronomers to make observations at the greatest possible altitude above the sea level. The location of the observatory is perfect for the purpose designed, and satisfactory results have been obtained. At present this institution is under the direction of Mr. Frost, of Harvard University. The local authorities extend every courtesy to the scientists of the observatory, who speak in high terms of their politeness and kindly interest.

The population of the Department of Arequipa is two hundred and forty thousand, of which the capital city claims forty thousand. An illustrious writer, referring to its people says: “The heart of the Peruvian nation lives here.” The annals of its people show that in all that has contributed to the nation’s greatness and prosperity, in all that has grown out of patriotic sentiment and devoted loyalty, in everything pertaining to the national spirit, as expressed in its literature, its art, and its social advancement, the lovely valley at the foot of the Misti has been represented by noble children, worthy of a high place on the national roll of fame.