The old Peru is passing,—the dominant traits of the nation are changing,—new life is apparent in its ideals, its institutions, in the spirit that rules society and politics, in everything that shows the influence of a broader outlook, a greater range of endeavor, a loftier aspiration. The traditions of caste and the contempt for utilitarian ideals which constituted a part of the creed of the colonial aristocracy have given place to an appreciation of true worth wherever found; the worship of luxury and pleasure has ceased to hold in thrall a people cradled in the pernicious atmosphere of a too abundant wealth, and the discipline of suffering and loss has brought out the inherent strength of a proud and gifted race; stimulated by the necessity of keeping up with the march of modern progress in order that their country may maintain the place to which its past history and present possibilities entitle it, the Peruvians of to-day are putting forth determined and well-defined efforts to overcome every obstacle in the path of their highest development—and they are achieving phenomenal success.

But there is still much of the old Peru that it is to be hoped will long remain. The picturesque charm which lingers about the ancient people of the sierra, in their quaint costumes and primitive ways, has apparently lost little by the advent of modern conditions; these children of a fading past are as much attached to their time-honored dress and to their traditional occupations as any Oriental, and it will be a long time before a pronounced change in this particular is likely to take place. During the colonial period the Indians were obliged to adopt some features of the Spanish garb,—probably to please their Christian masters,—and it is not known how long the process of transformation required; but the present fashion of the Indians of Cuzco and other localities of the sierra is a survival of the costume worn in the time of the first Spanish Bourbon kings, while their jewels still show the coat-of-arms of Charles V. Although there is no difference in dress to distinguish the Indian in authority from his followers, the Alcalde of the sierra is recognized as a very important personage among his fellows by the silver-bound vara which he carries; it is the emblem of his authority and is in his eyes more than a mere symbol; he will not part with it for an instant and he would feel himself bereft of his power to rule if it were taken away.

Though obedient to the Catholic faith, the Indians have their own celebrations in addition to those of the church; they still observe the feasts of the seedtime and harvest, as did their heathen ancestors, though many features of the festivities as originally practised have been eliminated. The tenacity with which they hold to their traditions is seen in many things. When a new house is built, it is decorated with flowers—a survival of the ceremonies held on such occasions in the days of the Incas—and a party is invited to celebrate the event. Over the doors of some old houses are symbols of both Incaic and Christian worship, though this is not seen on the more recently built homes, the roofs of which, with few exceptions, are adorned with a large tin cross, about two feet high, having attached to it small copies of the various instruments of torture used at the crucifixion of our Saviour, as well as other reminders of that tragedy; the spear that pierced his side, the long pole and sponge on which vinegar was given to quench his thirst, the garment for which they cast lots, and even the cock that crowed when Peter had thrice denied his master, are represented in conjunction with the central emblem of Christianity. The domicile of a bridal couple is easily distinguished by its being decorated with branches of totora (bulrushes) which are kept in evidence for eight days and signify that an invitation is extended to all friends to partake of the hospitality of the newly married pair.

The change from old to new conditions in Peru is a transition in which the Indian has had little share; not because he is prevented, but because of his disinclination to learn new ways and his lack of capacity to receive and apply modern knowledge. It is impossible to say what may be accomplished for future generations, but, judging from past history, centuries are required to accustom the indigenes to any radical change, and they seem utterly bewildered in the face of the rapid march of the present-day civilization. They are not easily induced to use modern tools in their work even when the superiority of such utensils is proved to them. The effort which the Indian is obliged to make in order to grow accustomed to the use of the modern implements is inconceivable to the modern mind; to these ancient people, it is a herculean task to attempt any new thing, and, if allowed to follow their own inclination, they will gladly throw aside the “improved” plough and the light, long-handled hoe, in favor of their tried and trusted though old-fashioned and cumbersome tools. Spinning and weaving are favorite occupations of the Indians of the coast as well as of the sierra, and their primitive looms, on which blanket and lighter materials are made, may be seen in most of their homes.

Not only in the descendants of the Incas’ subjects does the charm of the past linger in many beautiful and interesting features of Peru to-day. The influence of the viceroyalty is seen in some of the most attractive characteristics of republican Peruvians; their inheritance from their colonial ancestry may not be an unmixed blessing, but they have reason to be proud of some of its advantages. The unanimous verdict of travellers is that the Peruvians are a people of inherited refinement, culture, and geniality, and that their capital is one of the most delightful places in the world for a stranger to visit; their politeness and courteous hospitality is a heritage from the viceroyalty,—and it is more Peruvian than Spanish, being free from the extreme formality which is the keynote of Spanish courtesy.

The new Peru is the result of a transition extending over a long period, but of which the last steps have been rapid and of particular significance. The heritage of aristocratic Spain held the republican Peruvians in bondage long after the declaration of their independence gave verbal freedom and equality to all. It was not possible that the old ideas and tendencies should vanish with a stroke of the Liberator’s pen. But the desire for liberty grew in the hearts of the people as its blessings were ever more enjoyed and appreciated, and latent abilities were awakened as the demand became imperative for capable, resolute, and dominant leaders to advance in the path of progress. So long as fortune smiled and wealth came easily, it was not possible that the best characteristics of the people should be developed, however, and it was not until adversity struck a heavy blow that the true spirit of the nation was revealed.

It is sometimes said that the Peruvians are too gentle for their own good—that the national optimism is combined with too large a share of “faith in a lucky star” to be conducive of determined effort. But the history of the past few years proves that the nation is capable of advancing in line with the most progressive countries, and that the elements uniting to consolidate the best interests of the new Peru are not only unlimited faith and confidence but also fine judgment, well-directed energy, and established principles. It is peculiarly significant of the tendency of the new Peru that the statesman chosen to govern its destinies during the next four years as president of the republic is one of the most capable financiers in South American politics. It is not because of his famous ancestry—he is a descendant of the noble Estete who distinguished himself during the period of the conquest and established the first settlement at Trujillo—nor yet for his scholarship, though he is among the best informed men of his country, but because he realizes, in his wonderful grasp of present-day needs and possibilities, the aspirations of his people, and is prepared to lead them to greater heights than the nation has yet known. The president-elect has already announced the policy of his government, which is to be an instrument of progress, its underlying impulses the maintenance of peace and the protection of the interests and rights of all citizens. Questions of sanitation, education, immigration, agriculture, and railroad construction are to receive attention, and everything that may contribute to the national well-being will have careful consideration. The staunch principles of the man who is to direct the destinies of his country for the next four years are voiced in his declaration: “I intend to be the head of the nation, not the head of a party.” This is the spirit of leadership demanded by the Peruvians to-day. A new generation is taking the place of the older; new vitality pulses through the veins of the younger patriot, and his nerves are stronger, his sight is keener and his recognition of the forces that are moulding the destinies of empires to-day is impelling him to more active endeavor. That he does not forget the debt of honor due to the noble heroes who have rendered the highest services to the country in the past, while he recognizes the merit of those who are working for its present and future aggrandizement, is shown by the liberality with which monuments are built to commemorate their deeds. On the 8th of September last, a magnificent pantheon was dedicated to the memory of “The Defenders of the Nation in the War of 1879”; in its crypt repose the remains of the immortal heroes Admiral Grau and Colonel Bolognesi. It is the most imposing monument of the capital and shows that while the national heart beats high with hope for future achievement, it is still true to the sentiment of gratitude for compatriots who were sacrificed in the darker days that are past. With one hand clasping the tender memories of misfortune and the other extended to receive the blessings of a more prosperous day, the Peruvian nation displays its most salient characteristics, loyalty and optimism.