[2] In this square, we narrow as many stitches as are contained on one of our three pins, narrowing always twice on the same row, placing one of them on each side of the seam stitch. We calculate the number of rows intervening between each narrowing, by dividing half the number of stitches contained on one pin, with the number of stitches contained on the three, and abide by the result.
For the small of the leg, one square or breadth; for the heel, half a square; for the narrowing on each side of the instep, one quarter of a square; from the heel to the narrowing of the toe, one and a half square; for the narrowing, a quarter of a square.
Observe, that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking, at the time the next square is begun.
In making up stockings, see that the pins and worsted are suitable to each other; observe also to knit regularly, and let but one person knit each pair, otherwise they will not match or look well.
Stockings are knit with four pins, three of which hold the stitches, and the fourth serves to knit with.
After setting on the number of stitches required, dividing them equally on the three pins (always observing, however, that one pin has an uneven number), commence knitting round and round, according to the scale, taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one pin a turn-stitch, which forms a kind of seam down the stocking, and serves as a guide, by which the place of narrowing is more easily ascertained.
After welting several rounds or bouts, continue knitting and widening, or narrowing, according to the scale, observing to widen or narrow invariably on each side, within one loop of the seam-stitch.
For a description of welting, widening, narrowing, binding, &c., refer to knitting stitches and terms.
After knitting the heel and foot, the stitches are put upon two pins instead of three, and the narrowing begun and continued; after which it is fastened off, and the stocking completed.
Observe these are the proper proportions for stockings, when knit with coarse worsted and pins.
| Child of 4 |
Child of 6 |
Child of 9 |
Child of 12 |
Child of 14 |
Child of 16 |
Child of 18 |
Man’s Small or Woman’s |
Man’s Large |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stitches on each pin, allowing one extra for the seam-stitch in the middle of one pin |
16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |
| Stitches altogether, including the seam stitch |
49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |
| Knit rows for welting | 8 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 12 | 16 | 20 | 24 |
| Plain rows, or two squares | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |
| Number of double narrowings, one on each side of the seam-stitch, at three rows between |
8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 21 | 22 |
| Stitches altogether | 33 | 37 | 41 | 51 | 61 | 67 | 71 | 85 | 91 |
| Plain rows to the heel | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |
| Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 17 | 19 | 21 | 27 | 31 | 35 | 37 | 43 | 47 |
| Knit rows for the heel | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |
| Narrowings on each side the seam stitch, at one row between |
2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Bind down the heel | |||||||||
| Pick up loops on each side of the seam-stitch |
9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |
| Widen one row every third stitch on each side of the heel |
4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 11 | 12 |
| Narrow at the two corners of the heel, at one row between |
24 | 27 | 30 | 37 | 45 | 49 | 52 | 63 | 67 |
| Knit off plain rows | |||||||||
| Put half the stitches on one pin and half on the other, and narrow till there are stitches left on each pin |
6 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 |
| Bind down and fasten off |
PLATE 21. FIG. 22.
Socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes, and are made similarly to the stockings, excepting that the knitter begins immediately after the two squares knit for stockings; welting, of course, several bouts.
PLATE 21. FIG. 33.
These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of knitting, of three-quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less, wide.
They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool; the latter is most elastic and pleasant.
For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches, according to the fineness of the material.
Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off. Some persons prefer a loop at the end; for which purpose, when near the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in fastening off.
Garters are sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine, twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick.
Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of squares of different patterns.
PLATE 21. FIG. 24.
| Set on thirty loops. | Knit three ribs. |
| Narrow each end. | Knit three ribs. |
| Narrow each end. | Knit three ribs. |
| Narrow each end. | Knit one row plain. |
There are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin. Put twelve on another pin, and add fourteen. Knit three ribs, and narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Narrow at the heel every other row three times. There ought to be thirteen ribs. Add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin, and do the same. Join the two together and sew up the sock.
Set on twenty-four stitches. Widen at the beginning of each row, till there are twenty-eight stitches. Knit ten ribs, narrow at the heel, twice at one end. Take twelve on one pin and add twelve, make another side the same, and fasten off. Add fourteen stitches to the twelve that were left, widen each end every rib till there are thirty. Knit ten ribs and fasten off.
PLATE 21. FIG. 25.
PLATE 21. FIG. 26, 27.
This is a very pretty kind of sock, and from being worn in two colours with a kind of sandal, resembles slippers worn over stockings.
PLATE 21. FIG. 28.
This may be knit either of two colours, or entirely of white.
The loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part, by knitting two stitches in the centre, forming a hole on each side, through which the ribbon is drawn. Sew up the sock and it is completed. Sometimes the boot has a little white intermixed with the colour; in which case, the coloured wool is simply laid inside, and brought forward when wanted.
PLATE 21. FIG. 29, 30.
This is commonly made with fine cotton, letting two rows be knit in stocking, and one in garter or turn-stitch, alternately the whole way.
PLATE 21. FIG. 31.
PLATE 21. FIG. 32.
This is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe, or as a house shoe.
PLATE 21. FIG. 33.
This is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their shoe or boot heels, to prevent their falling. It is particularly good for old people and children.
PLATE 21. FIG. 34.
These are made by knitting a piece of six nails long, and a nail and a half or more deep. This, when fastened at the ends, is sewed to a sole, which is made by knitting an oval piece.
For this sole, set on about six stitches and knit on, widening at both ends, till about fifteen stitches are upon the pin; continue knitting till nearly of the proper length, and then begin narrowing down to the six stitches again. Fasten off.
The sides of the boot are generally ornamented by knitting four rows of garter-stitch of one colour, and then four rows of stocking-stitch of another, and so on throughout. About thirty stitches may be set on the pin.
PLATE 21. FIG. 35.
Set on thirty-six stitches on each of three pins;
Knit one plain round, after which knit fifty rows (more or less, according to pleasure) in the welt of three, by which means it is ribbed up and elastic, and will fit almost any person’s foot.
If for a child of five or six years old, set on eighteen stitches to each pin.
These are very useful for those who have cold feet, either to wear in bed, or slip over the stockings when dressing; and as they set quite close to the foot and ankle, they give a great deal of warmth.
They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less than a drawing pencil.
For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy.
PLATE 21. FIG. 36.
Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners are employed in making them.
| SCALE FOR KNIT BOOTS. | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ———————— | Child of 8 |
Child of 10 |
Child of 12 |
Child of 14 |
Child of 16 |
Child of 18 |
Woman |
| Loops set on one pin | 14 | 16 | 18 | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| Widen every rib on one end till the number of loops are |
17 | 19 | 21 | 26 | 28 | 31 | 33 |
| Knit plain ribs | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Narrow every rib on one end, till the number of loops are |
14 | 16 | 18 | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |
| Number of loops to be added, half of which are to be set on the pin with the stitches already on, and the other half on a fresh pin immediately joining it |
20 | 22 | 24 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| Pick up the stitches on the second pin, which were first set on for the toe |
|||||||
| Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 7 | 8 | 9 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 |
| Pick up loops to the toe | |||||||
| Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| Pick up the loops round the ankle, and narrow every rib on the right side three or four stitches from the front of the rows |
10 | 11 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| Fasten off | |||||||
These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should have fringe, and worsted platted strings.
Coarse lamb’s wool and thick pins.
Set on thirty-six stitches, knit ten ribs, put eighteen on one pin, and knit twelve ribs; narrow each rib at the heel twice, making in all fourteen ribs. The other side the same. Pick up loops on both the side pieces; for the toe, knit ten ribs; narrow every rib on each side, so that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot, and not at the bottom; seven narrowings, and finish in a point.
PLATE 21. FIG. 37.
PLATE 21. FIG. 38.
Set on forty loops, knit the two first stitches plain, the rest double knitting till it is a square bag; fasten it off, making it to open at the top; large pins and coarse; lamb’s wool.
PLATE 21. FIG. 39.
This is a sole to put within a shoe or boot, and is made in double knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape, and bound all round with ribbon.
For a good average size, set on fourteen stitches, knit in double knitting for twenty-three rows, and fasten off. The knitting must be brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon, when wanted to be narrowed.
PLATE 21. FIG. 40.
Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin, and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether; knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers. Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow every other row on each side of both the gores three times. There should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other. For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round; finish the thumb as the fingers.
PLATE 21. FIG. 41.
These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather, being double on the out, and single in the inside.
Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed, when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at half a nail’s distance from the end.
PLATE 21. FIG. 42.
Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square.
Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off.
Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off.
Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist.
Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows, knit one row plain, next row alternate turn and plain, third row plain, fourth row alternate plain and turn, so that the plain stitch is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five or six rows and finish.
PLATE 21. FIG. 43.
This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off.
For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow. Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat.
Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the whole way.
PLATE 21. FIG. 44.
This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or light grey. Use finest wool and pins.
PLATE 21. FIG. 45.
Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch, being wound over a mesh of the proper width.
PLATE 21. FIG. 26.
This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or the two coloured chain stitch.
Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or not, according to pleasure.
Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up.
Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin.
Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes, and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning.
Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for the thickness of the wrist.
Sew or lace it up, and it is completed.
PLATE 21. FIG. 47.
These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness.
Make up the frill as follows:—
Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of each set of stitches together, side by side, all along.
Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie.
PLATE 21. FIG. 48.
This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch.
Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it. It resembles a boa in shape.
PLATE 21. FIG. 49.
Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to form the fringe.
These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of stitches is calculated for wool.
This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins.
The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool; it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work.
PLATE 21. FIG. 50.
For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six thread, untwisted, is the best.
Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required.
PLATE 21. FIG. 51.
PLATE 21. FIG. 51.
Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the two ends together.
From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure.
PLATE 21. FIG. 52.
This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool, either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane.
Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it fits neatly to the figure.
PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55.
These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three or four threads, and in double knitting.
The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one collar.
The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest.
Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts, and PP the sloped.
Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other, lessening each row till it is properly hollowed.
The collar is merely a straight piece.
In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round the waist, and another at the throat.
Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon the pin.
This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour.
For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is required:—
The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil.
The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle, to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain or open, through the whole shawl.
When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is done as follows:—