On the 15ᵗʰ of July 1793, I took leave of Citizen Genet, Minister of the Republic of France to the United States[1] and started from Philadelphia on the same date at ten o’clock at night to avoid the great heat, and to travel by Moonlight. The 16th, being in company with ... Humeau and ... Leblanc,[2] we journeyed 40 miles.

The 17th, passed by Lancaster and made 35 Miles.

The 18th, passed by Carlisle ... Miles and slept at Chipesbourg [Shippensburg].

The 19th we slept at Strasbourg ... Miles.

Sunday the 20th, we started from Strasbourg, a small town situate at the foot of the Mountains; one of our horses having fallen sick we traveled only 21 Miles; observed Magnolia acuminata, Azalea octandra, Kalmia latifolia, Fagus castanea, Fagus pumila, Pinus 2-folia, 3-folia, Strobus: Abies Canadensis; Quercus castaneaefolia etc. Juglans nigra.

The 21st of July started from Wells’s tavern, crossed the Juniata river ... and noticed Rhododendron maximum, Hydrangea frutescens, Trillium erectum; slept at Bedford. 21 Miles.

The 22nd. Started from Bedford and breakfasted at a place 4 miles distant where the Pittsburg Road divides into two. We took the right hand road; the Rain compelled us to stop and sleep only twelve Miles from Bedford.[3]

The 23rd we made 24 Miles and passed the summit of the Alleganys.

The 24th we made 25 Miles.

The 25th we passed by Green’sburg and made 31 Miles.

The 26th Rain; we made only ... Miles.

The 27th, we made 19 Miles and arrived in Pittsburgh. Total 32[4] Miles from Philadelphia.

The 28th visited Mr. H. Brackenridge.[5]

The 29th herborised; recognized on the banks of the Monongahela, Dracocephalum Virginianum,[6] Bignonia radicans, Crotalaria alba? These plants grow on the banks of the river which are submerged when the waters are high.

The 30th of the same, recognized a Plant of the Genus Ziziphora ... Cunila pulegioides[7] floribus tetandris; Teucrium Canadense, Eupatorium aromaticum, Sigesbeckia ...; Verbenae several species.

The 1st of August, herborised and recognized Cassia Marylandica; Monarda didyma; Sanicula Marylandica; Triosteum perfoliatum; Sicyos angulata; Acer rubrum, saccharum; Campanula, ...; Cercis Canadensis; Menispermum Canadense; Actaea spicata; Tilia Americana; Urtica divaricata; Arum triphyllum; Celtis occidentalis; Panax quinquefolium; Staphylea trifoliata; Azarum Canadense; Rhus typhina, glabra, vernix; copallinum, radicans, toxicodendron; Clinopodium vulgare, incanum.

The 2nd of August recognized Aristolochia sipho or macrophylla; Panax quinquefolium; Lobelia siphilitica; Convallaria many species; Veronica ... Ozalis stricta.

The 3rd and 4th of August herborised: Cacalia 2 species, Phryma leptostachia; Leontice thalictroides; Lobelia siphilitica, inflata, cardinalis; Eupatorium perfoliatum, maculatum, odoratum et celestinum; Actea spicata; Podophyllum peltatum; Azarum Canadense; Hydrophyllum Canadense; Trillium cernuum; Panax quinquefolium; Aristolochia Sipho; Menispermum ...; Sambucus Canadensis fructu nigro; Sambucus ..., fructu rubro foliis tomentosis; Tilia Americana; Laurus Sassafras, benzoin; Robinia pseudocacia, Juglans oblonga, Juglans hiccory; Plantanus occidentalis; Acer rubrum, saccharum; Ulmus ...; Hamamelis ..., Cynoglossum 3 species; Vitis vulpina; Dioscorea fructu infero; Teucrium Canadense; Scrophularia Marylandica; Dracocephalum Virginianum; Dianthera ...; Sophora foliis ternis stipulis lato-lanceolatis floribus coeruleis vexillo corollâ breviore; Mimulus ringens; Bignonia radicans; Cercis Canadensis; Fagus sylvatica Americana; Circaea Canadensis; Urtica inermis; Erigeron Canadense; Cornus florida; Rubus odorata, Rubus occidentalis; Penthorum sedoides; Cephalantus occidentalis; Polygonum aviculare, hydropiper, amphibium, scandens; Sanguinaria Canadensis.

On the 6th of August I saw on the bank of the Monongahela river opposite Pittsburgh a Coal mine at the entrance of which there seems to be a thickness of 15 feet of that mineral without admixture; sometimes a ferruginous tint can be distinguished between the different layers. In several spots soft rocks are to be found which seem good for use as whet-stones for large tools; they seem to me to consist of a combination of sandy, clayey and ferruginous particles with particles of mica in very rare instances.

The soil in the neighborhood of Pittsburgh is generally clayey, the calcareous rocks or stones of a brown color, consisting of much muddy clay. The soil between the two rivers on which Pittsburgh is built, is alluvial; stones rounded and worn by the rolling of torrents have even been found in the earth, dug up while sinking wells at a depth of more than 30 feet.

The 9th of August, when I was ready to start, the conductor of the Boat on which I had embarked my baggage came to tell me that he was waiting for the Boats destined to convey the troops, especially as the Boat seemed too deeply laden for that Season when the Waters are low; there was an appearance of Rain.

The 10th the river seems to be falling.

The 11th, 12th and 13th we remained, awaiting the departure.

The 13th three Boats arrived from the Illinois belonging to Mr. Vigo.[8] They were manned by about 30 French Canadian or Illinois oarsmen.

A Frenchman who has resided in America for 14 years and whose business consists in shipping supplies of flour to New Orleans, told me that he would give me Letters for Illinois addressed to the Commandant of the Post of St Louis. He is at present settled in Pittsbourgh and his name is Audrain.[9] This Audrain is said to be in partnership with one Louisière or Delousière who was exiled from France for having been concerned in the plot to deliver Havre to the combined English and Spanish fleets. This Louisière is at present absent from Pittsburgh. There is another Frenchman residing in Pittsburgh, Mr Lucas de Pentareau, an excellent Democrat, now absent. He passes for an educated man with legal knowledge.[10]

Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the two rivers, Monongahela and Allegany. These two rivers unite and form the Ohio or Belle Rivière. There are a great many more houses on the Monongahela river than on the Allegany. The number of houses is about 250 and it increases considerably every year. The ditches are still to be seen that served as the entrenchment of the Fort built by the French and called Fort Duquesne. The English, since that time, had built another almost beside it at the angle formed by the junction of the two rivers. It was built of brick and the Americans are demolishing it to use the bricks in building the houses that are being erected every day at Fort Pitt.[11]

The Americans have a Fort of Palisades situated behind the town on the bank of the Allegany River; it serves as a Depot for the arrival of the troops that are being sent against the Savages and as a Magazine for the Munitions sent there from Philadelphia.[12]

Wednesday the 14th of August, started from Pittsbourgh and slept at a distance of two miles only on the point of a small island on which I found Acer negundo, rubrum, saccharum; Evonimus capsulis glabris.[13]

The 15th recognized at 20 Miles from Pittsburgh Pavia lutea, Panax quinquefolium; A Bryonia plant monoica calyce 5-fido, corolla 5 partita floribus masculis spicatis axillaribus floribus femineis quoque axillaribus germine instructo spinis innocuis.[14] Our journey covered 28 Miles.

The 16th at 7 o’clock in the morning we crossed the boundary line between Pennsylvania and Virginia. The line is marked by cutting down the trees on a width of about ... feet on the right and left of the Ohio or Belle Rivière and this place is 45 miles from Pittsbourgh. In the evening of the same day arrived at Buffalo Creek. 79 Miles from Pittsburgh.

The 17th passed by Willing [Wheeling] 92 Miles from Pittsburgh;[15] this place is inhabited by about 12 families as is also Buffalo Creek [Wellsburg]. Owing to the contrary wind we traveled only 30 Miles.

Sunday August 18th 1793, saw several flocks of wild Turkeys; wind contrary.

The 19th we made 50 Miles. There are no settlements between Willing and Marietta, a small Town situate at the mouth of the Muskingum river. We slept at the place called Fort Harmar, situate opposite Marietta on the right bank of the Muskingum river.[16] Dianthera americana.

The 20th we spent the day there.

The 21st, we passed by Little Kanhaway,[17] Belpré, and Belleville 34 Miles.

The 22nd we saw no settlements. Recognized Polymnia canadensis; Acer rubrum foliis inferne glaucis; Acer negundo, Acer saccharum, Acer foliis rugosis nervis sublanuginosis; Annona triloba, Pavia lutea, Platanus occidentalis.

The 23rd passed Great Kanhaway,[18] 4 miles before arriving at Galliapolis on the opposite bank.

The 23rd we arrived at the settlement of Galliapolis situate on the left bank of the Belle rivière. The houses are all built of squared logs merely notched at the ends instead of being Mortised (Log-house).[19]

The 24th remained over, visited doctor Petit who inspired me with the greatest respect by his good sense, his knowledge and his virtue. It seemed to me that humanity is the only thing that keeps him attached to that unfortunate colony.[20] Out of the 600 persons who came there to settle, only about 150 remain.

Sunday the 25th started from Galliapolis; at a distance of 35 Miles recognized Iresine celosioides on the banks of the belle rivière where they are submerged by the great inundations. Passed a small river called Gay [Guyandotte]. We saw no habitations; 40 Miles.

The 26th, saw no habitations; passed the river Scioto ... Miles.[21]

The 27th, saw a Settlement of several houses at the place called Three Islands, ten miles before arriving at Lime Stone;[22] these Settlements are considered the first belonging to Kentuckey. We reached Lime Stone toward evening.[23]

Limestone is considered the Landing place or Port of Kentuckey. Goods are landed there that are sent from Philadelphia for Danville, Lexington etc. A small town founded six years ago at a distance of 4 Miles on the Lexington road, is called Washington and is very flourishing being situate in very fertile land.

The 28th, visited Colonel Alexander D. Orr.[24]

The 29th I left the two Companions who had come with me from Philadelphia. They continued their journey to Louisville while I went on by way of the inland Settlements. Colonel D. Orr offered me his Company to go with him to Lexington whither he proposed to go in a few days.

The 30th and 31st herborised while waiting until horses could be procured for the journey to Lexington. Guilandina dioica; Fraxinus (quadrangularis); Gleditsia triacanthos; Serratula praealta; Eupatorium aromaticum, Crepis Sibirica? etc.

Sunday 1st of September 1793. Dined at Colonel Lee’s.[25]

The 2nd dined with ... Fox and prepared my baggage for departure.

The 3rd the journey was put off until the Following day. The soil in the vicinity of Washington is clayey and blackish, very rich. The stones are of an opaque bluish calcareous Substance, full of petrifactions of seashells. The bones of those monster animals supposed to be Elephants are found in the neighborhood.[26] It is to be presumed that those bones belonged to marine Individuals, judging by the great abundance of debris of marine bodies collected in those places.

The 4th started from Washington; passed by a place where the soil is impregnated with saline substances and whither the Buffaloes used to go in great numbers to lick the particles of Salt continually exuding from the surface of the Soil. There are at this spot springs whose water is bitter, putrid, blackish and full of mephitic air which frees itself at the slightest movement of the soil by the bubbles appearing on the surface of the spring as one approaches. The people living in the neighborhood erect ovens with kettles and extract Salt by the evaporation of the water.[27] We traveled 33 Miles.

The 5th we made 27 miles and, at an early hour, reached Lexington,[28] the chief town amongst the Settlements of the State of Kentuckey. We passed a small Settlement, looked upon as a town and called Paris, the capital of Bourbon county.[29] It contains about 18 houses. There are farming Establishments along the road and travelers now go without danger from Lime Stone to Lexington, a distance of Sixty six miles from one place to the other. 66 Miles.

The 6th visited two persons residing in Lexington for whom I had Letters of introduction.

The 7th herborised....

Sunday 8th of September was obliged to remain being unable to hire a horse.

The 9th left Lexington, went through portions of forest lands with very scattered Plantations. Crossed the Kentuckey river the banks of which are very close to one another; when the waters are low there is a height of more than 100 feet from the bank of the river to the level of the lands bordering on it and through which it runs. I am told that in flood-time it rises to a height of 40 feet in one day. On arriving there one would think himself between two ranges of very steep Mountains but in fact it is merely a torrent or a river whose Bed has been deeply worn. The rocks on the banks are of a calcareous nature. Several shrubs and Plants, natives of Carolina, grow on the cliff with a southern exposure being secured and protected from cold by the favorable situation offered by the great depth of the bed of the river.

The 10th arrived in Danville[30] and visited several persons for whom I had Letters: Colonel Barbee etc, Capt. Peter Tardivau, a witty man[31] etc. etc.

The 11th, visited General Benjamin Logan whose house is situate 12 Miles from Danville. I confided to him the Commission entrusted to me; He told me he would be delighted to take part in the enterprise but that he had received a Letter a few days previously from J. Brown[32] which informed him that negotiations had been begun between the United States and the Spaniards respecting the navigation of the Mississipi and the Creek Indians; That a messenger had been sent to Madrid[33] and that any one of the United States that would venture to act in a hostile manner against the Spaniards before the return of the first of December next, would be disapproved by the federal Government; That he was going to start the following day for his Establishment of Boulskine [Bullskin] Creek and that, after I should have conferred with General Clark, he hoped the latter would, in consequence of what I should communicate to him, make arrangements for further conferences together[34] etc. etc.

The 12th returned to Danville.

The 13th Visited (his Excellency) the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby;[35] visited the hills called Knob Licks;[36] Saw several Plants especially in the salt lands enclosed in the interior of the territory of Kentuckey. Andromeda arborea.

The 14th left Danville for Louisville, lodged with Cumberland 19 Miles from Danville.

Sunday 15th of September 1793, 22 Miles from Danville found a sort of Tragia, a monoecian Plant, fructification in the manner of the Euphorbias. Shortly before reaching Beardstown recognized the rocks and stones of calcareous substances possessing all the forms of the Madrepores. The tops of the Mountains (hills) one has to cross, 3 or 4 Miles before reaching Beardstown, consist entirely of these petrified madrepores. Recognized many Plants not found elsewhere: Fagara of the State of New York; Rhamnus (Carolinian) and Rhamnus ... etc etc. The neighborhood would be very interesting for a Botanist to visit. Dined at Beardstown[37] and slept 6 miles further. 31 Miles.

The country between Beardstown and Louisville possesses no interest for a Botanist.

The 16th arrived at Louisville having traveled by the new road.[38] 29 Miles. In all 79 Miles from Danville.

The 17th of September visited General Clarke. I handed him the Letters from the Minister and informed him of the object of my Mission. He told me that he was very eager for the Undertaking but that, although he had written so long ago, he had received no answer and thought it had been abandoned.[39] I told him that his Letter had fallen into other hands and that the Minister had received it only indirectly after his arrival in Philadelphia. He informed me that a fresh circumstance seemed to oppose an obstacle to it.[40]

The 18th remained at Louisville and herborised.

The 19th returned to visit General Clarke....

The 20th started from Louisville, passed by General Clarke’s[41] and passed on to sleep near Salt river.

The 21st passed by Beardstown. Evonimus ramulis quadrangulis capsulis muricatis.[42]

Sunday September 22nd arrived once more at Danville at 5 o’clock in the evening. Wrote to Minister Genet the same day by the Philadelphia Post.[43]

The 23rd I rested.

The 24th started for Lexington and slept at the Kentuckey river crossing.

The 25th found that my horse had wandered away. I slept at an inn where there was no Stable; my horse jumped over the fence and I spent the whole day looking for him.

While so engaged I saw on the sandy beaches: Iresine celosioides; Mollugo verticillata; On the rocks; Heuchera Americana; Asplenium rhyzophorum; Pteris nova; Parietaria ...; Hydrangea arborescens. On the limestone mountains: Serratula 2 unknown species; Cuphea viscosa; Didynamia gymnosperma novum genus; Didynamia angiosperma novum genus. On the bank of the Dickson river, Dirca palustris; Sophora floribus coerulis. In the shady forests etc: Acer foliis argenteis an rubrum? Acer saccharum; Fraxinus foliolis subintegris, Fraxinus foliolis serratis ramis quadrangularis; Gleditsia triacanthos; Guilandina dioica, Robinia pseudo-acacia; Evonimus ramulis subrotundis, capsulis laevibus.

The 26th of September 1793, Rained all day; slept at a mile from Kentuckey river at the house of ... Hogan[44] who was kind enough to lend me a horse for nothing to go in search of mine.

The 27th arrived at Lexington distant only 20 Miles from the crossing of Kentuckey river called Hickman junction.[45]

The 5th of October started from Lexington.

Sunday the 6th of the same arrived at Danville. The same day wrote to Citizen Minister Genet.

The 7th took lodgings at Puvit’s[46] and received my baggage.

The 10th Sent a Messenger to Louisville.[47]

The 13th Sunday returned to Lexington and came back on Sunday the 20th, to Danville. Not having received general Clark’s answer I was unable to take advantage of the Post to write to the Minister at Philadelphia.

The 21st received General Clark’s answer.[48]

The 10th of November 1793, Year 2 of the French Republic, left Danville for Philadelphia after visiting Colonel George Nicholas[49] near Danville. He laid stress upon the plan he had proposed to me the previous day regarding the Navigation of the Mississipi. Namely: That the Naval Forces of the Republic should seize the Mouth of the Mississipi, declare that the Country belonged to them by right of Conquest and invite the Americans of the Western Country to take advantage of the freedom of Navigation. Then, if the Spaniards situated higher up the river molested the Vessels carrying the provisions conveyed by the Americans, the latter would have the right to repel Constraint and force by force. Thus the Spanish Government would have no reason to complain of the United States having broken through inasmuch as the country would be reputed in the possession of the French Republic.

Slept at Crab orchard distant from Danville 22 Miles.

The 11th of November 1793, started from Crab Orchard in company with 12 persons who had assembled at that place to pass through the Woods inhabited and frequented by the Savages. The tract between Crab orchard and Houlston settlement is 130 Miles wide and is called The Wilderness.[50] Slept at Longford Station. 10 Miles.

The 12th slept at Modnell Station 28 Miles.

The 13th slept at Middleton station. 28 Miles.

The 14th crossed low, swampy places where the water was brown and stagnant. Six miles from Middleton Post and 18 miles before reaching the top of Cumberland Gap, saw a climbing fern covering an area of over six acres of ground near the road.[51] At this season when the Frost had produced ice from 3 to 4 lines thick, this plant was not at all injured by it. In this territory are two places, one called Flat lick and the other Stinking Creek.

Saw near the Carcass of a Stag the ... Raven (Corvus corax). Davissas station 2 miles to the[52] ... Cumberland Gap[53] 26 Miles.

The 15th of November traveled through parts of very high Mountains in the midst of which we crossed Clinch river and slept at Houlston Station[54] in the house of one ... 27 Miles.

The 16th followed the bank of the Houlston river and slept at the house of ... Amis Esquire, three Miles from Hawkin Court house.[55] 26 Miles.

Sunday the 17th the Rain compelled me to remain in a a small Cabin near the North fork of Houlston. 25 Miles.

The 18th my horse was so tired owing to the rapidity of the journey and the bad roads across the Wilderness that I was obliged to stop after a Journey of only eleven Miles. 11 Miles.

The 19th started at daybreak. At the foot of the house where I lodged, the Kentuckey road divides,[56] the right one leads to Burke court house in North Carolina passing by the Mouth of Wataga river; the other leads to Abington court house, the first town of Virginia. As my horse was still tired, I made only 20 miles.

The 20th I made 15 Miles; arrived at Abington.[57]

The 21st I slept 22 Miles from Abington near Seven Miles Ford, the middle Branch of the Houlston.

The 22nd of November 1793 crossed Seven Miles ford. The Holston river consists of three principal Branches, namely: North fork, Seven Miles fork and South fork of Holston river.

In the space of six miles after crossing that little river, observed on the northern Hills bordering several small rivers the Pinus abies canadensis, Thuya occidentalis, Rhododendron maximum and also Magnolia acuminata in places where the soil is very rich: Fagus chinquapin; clayey soil, ferruginous Quartz rocks, Slates rare and lime Stones sometimes interveined with white Quartz; grey Squirrel (forgot to mention that, in passing Abington, saw a Tortoise 8 inches in diameter petrified in a black calcareous substance like the Rocks abounding in the territory). Our day’s journey was 23 miles.

The 23rd of November slept in the house of a German. During the night my horses strayed away. Between Abington and With Court house[58] among the Mountains Abies canadensis and Thuya occidentalis.

Sunday the 24th, passed by With Court house and at about 18 Miles in the steep Mountains observed Pinus Strobus, Pinus foliis ternis (pitch pine), Pinus foliis geminis ..., Pinus abies canadensis, Rhododendron maximum, Kalmia latifolia, Gaultheria procumbens, Epigea repens: In more arid places, Fagus chinquapin, Fagus castanea americana, Fagus sylvatica americana, Andromeda arborea, Hypericum Kalmianum. Among the damp rocks or those watered by the streams; Rocks of silex and also of agate slightly transparent.

From Seven Miles ford to With Court house 36 Miles.

The 25th crossed the ferry called Peper’s ferry[59] on the New River and afterward crossed from the West to the East side of the Alleganies; slept on a branch of James river called Catawba which flows eastward while the New River flows West of the Mountains.

The 26th continued on my way to Botetort Court house 30 miles.

The 27th passed by Botetort Court house[60] and by the south Branch of the James River 12 miles from Botetort.

The 28th passed by Lexington [61] 40 miles distant from Botetort and by the north branch of James river to one Mile from Lexington. Thuya occidentalis, Pinus Strobus.

The 29th of November, remained in Mac Dowall’s house;[62] my horse’s leg was so swelled that he could not walk.

Sunday the first of December 1793 passed by Stanton, a small and rather flourishing town situate 120 Miles from Richemont and 75 Miles from Botetort.[63]

The 2nd passed by Rockyham or Rockytown[64] 20 miles distant from Stanton.

The 3rd passed by Woodstock,[65] another small town 37 Miles from Rockytown. Between Stanton and Woodstock the country is mountainous, the soil rather fertile, of a clayey nature, with calcareous rocks called Blue limestone; Quercus rubra, alba; Fagus chinquapin and Pinus foliis geminis, conis squamis rigidis et aculeatis. Three miles before reaching that town, on the North of a Hill on the road, Thuya occidentalis, Pinus foliis geminis, Juniperus virginiana.

The 4th started from Woodstock, passed by Newtown.[66]

The 5th passed by Winchester,[67] 35 Miles from Woodstock, formerly called Miller’stown.

The 6th passed by Charlestown[68] 22 Miles from Winchester. Passed by Harspur ferry[69] across the Potomack river 8 miles from Charleston and entered Maryland.

The 7th passed by Fredericktown[70] 20 Miles from Harspur ferry (Potomack river) and 50 miles from Winchester.

Sunday the 8th passed by Woodberry and Littletown[71] 35 Miles from Fredericktown.

The 9th passed by Hanover, formerly MacAllistertown[72] 42 miles from Fredericktown and by Yorktown 18 Miles from MacAllistertown now Hanovertown.

The 10th passed by the Susquehanna river and entered Pennsylvania eleven miles from Yorktown.[73] Passed Lancaster 12 miles from Harris ferry on the Susquehanna river and 24 miles from York.[74]

The 11th of December 1793 traveled 30 Miles.

Thursday the 12th, arrived in Philadelphia 66 miles from Lancaster.

The 13th visited Citizen Genet, Minister Plenipotentiary of the French Republic.

The 14th Visited Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Rittenhouse[75] and ...

Sunday the 15th; Recapitulation of the journey, namely:

The 30th Germinal in the 3rd year of the French Republic One and Indivisible (Sunday 19th of April 1795 old style) started to go and herborise in the high Mountains of the Carolinas and afterward to visit the Western territories. Plants seen before arriving at Monk’s corner: Heuchera ..., Vicia 2 species, Smilax herbacea erecta, Melampodium? ... Polygonum necessaria, Silene Virginica, Phlox lanceolata then in flower, Valeriana. Slept at 45 Mile House.

The 10th Floreal (20th of April,) around forty five Mile house, Valeriana; 3 Miles before reaching Neilson’s ferry Gnaphalium dioicuin, Uvularia? On the said 20th of April a new tree of the Santee river, elm-leaved, fructus muricati capsula muricata, semen unicum subovatum.[78]

These seeds were then almost ripe; Celtis occidentalis flowers ...[79] and lower male flowers.

Slept 77 Miles from Charleston.

The 21st of April noticed on the Santee High-hills: Phlox with white flowers and Phlox with pink flowers, two different species, very small Phlox with lance shaped leaves; Saw in the neighborhood of Monk’s corner Lupinus hirsutus in flower. Dined with Dʳ ...; slept at Statesboroug.

The 22nd passed by Cambden; five miles beyond, a new Kalmia; it was not yet in flower. Slept 10 Miles beyond Cambden.

The 23rd of April passed by Flat rock, by Hanging rock Creek and slept at Cane Creek, Lancaster county, in the house of a Mr May; my horse strayed away during the night and following his traces it was found that he had passed by Mr Lee’s.

The 24th I was obliged to look for him all day. Mr Lee also sent his son and his negro to search for him. He procured me a Horse to go on my quest and afterward invited me to lodge with him; he overwhelmed me with civilities.[80]

The 25th, the horse came to Mr Lee’s house of his accord. Plants on the creek: Dodecatheon Meadia, Asarum Canadense, Claytonia Virginica, Erythronium dens-leonis.

Sunday 26th of April, started from Cane Creek, passed by Land’sford on the Catawba river. But the real road is from Cane Creek, ask for Colonel Crawford’s house or Plantation on the Waxsaw, then pass MacClean Hands ferry on the Catawba; Thence straight to the Iron works called Hill’s Iron Works operated by Colonel Hill.[81]

Thus from Cane Creek to Waxsaw ... Miles; From Waxsaw to Iron Works, York county ...

The 27th passed Iron Works about 32 miles from Cane Creek.

The 28th passed by Armstrong[82] ford on the south branch of the Catawba, 12 miles from Iron Works.

The same day passed by the dwelling of Bennet Smith where there is a ... Magnolia, 12 Miles from Armstrong ford.

The 29th passed by Lincoln,[83] 12 Miles from Bennet Smith’s and 36 miles from Iron Works.

Thursday 30th of April passed by the dwelling of Old man Wilson[84] 9 miles from Lincoln and 6 Miles from Robertson’s. Reached Morganton[85] 30 Miles from Robertson.

The 1st of May spent the day at Morganton and herborised in the neighborhood.

The 2nd spent the day at Colonel Avery’s,[86] 4 miles from Morganton.

Sunday 3rd of May started for the Mountains; at a distance of 14 Miles from Burke is Wagely’s house.

The Lineville Mountains at whose foot this house is situated, abound in Magnolia auriculata. They were then in flower. From Wagely’s to Captain Young’s is 8 Miles.

The 4th of May left Young’s. The distance to Ainswort’s is 2 Miles but by going to the right one reaches the foot of a very high Mountain 3 Miles from Young’s. The summit is 5 Miles from Young’s.

From the summit of the Mountain at Young’s to Bright’s, called Bright’s Settlement, the distance is 3 Miles and from Bright’s to Davin Port’s 2 Miles, making 10 Miles in all from Young’s to Davin Port’s.[87]

The 5th of May herborised in the vicinity of the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman.

The 6th started for the Mountains, namely: Round [Roan] Mountain and Yellow Mountain; Toe River flows between these Mountains. All the Convallaria were in flower as well as the Podophyllum diphyllum and umbellatum.

Sunday 10th of May 1795 returned from the Mountains to the dwelling of Davin Port.

The 11th herborised on the Mountains facing the dwelling. The distance to the summit of the Bleue Ridges at the part called Rompback is about 3 Miles; on the first Mountains are to be seen in very great abundance the Azalea foliis apice glandulosis, Azalea lutea. There is no other Azalea on the Hills surrounding the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman but this yellow-flowered species. That on the River banks is generally that with carnation flowers and that with white flowers.[88]

The 12th ascended the summit of the Blueridges, Rhododendron minus in flower, Cypripedium Luteum.

The 13th of May started to continue my journey. At Noon arrived at the foot of Yellow Mountain 10 Miles. In the evening came to sleep at the house of John Miller 12 Miles from the Mountain. Thus there are 22 Miles from Davin Port’s to Miller’s; at a distance of half a mile one commences to cross Doe River.

The 14th followed and crossed Doe river 27 times. It is dangerous when the waters are high. Slept at the house of Colonel Tipton,[89] 20 Miles from Miller’s.

The 15th passed by Johnsboroug[90] 10 Miles from Colonel Tipton’s dwelling and 84 Miles from Burke Court house. Slept at the house of Anthony Moore near Noleychukey river. During the night my horse strayed away.

The 16th, Sunday 17th, & 18th were spent in searching for my horse.

The 19th bought another horse for the price of fifty Dollars from an inhabitant of Noley Chukey river named ... Earnest, a neighbor of one Andrew Fox. The Magnolia tripetala abounds on the banks of Noley Chukey.

Wednesday 20th of May, passed by Green Court house 27 Miles from John’s Borough and the road to Kentuckey, taking the right hand and passing by ... ferry on the Holston river. Continuing straight on the road leads to Knoxville. By going to the left a little before Green the road leads to Frenchbroad.[91] The distance from John Borough to Green Court house is 27 Miles.

The 21st passed by Bull’s Gap 18 Miles from Green.[92]

The 22nd passed by Iron Works[93] 30 Miles from Bull’s gap. The distance to the river called Houlston river is only four miles. Two miles from Iron Works is a Rock of mineral, pieces whereof on being crushed and reduced to powder dye cotton red; this mineral is boiled etc.

The 23rd as my horse was injured I was obliged to remain a Mile from Iron Works on Mossy Creek at the house of one Newman. Near his house (½ mile) is to be found the mineral that I take to be Antimony.

Sunday 24th, arrived at Colonel King’s on the Houlston river at the place called Macby ferry[94] 15 Miles from Iron Works.

The 25th crossed the ferry and arrived at Knoxville 15 miles from Macby ferry, the residence of the Governor of the Western territories, 110 Miles from Johnsborough.[95] Plants and Trees of the Territory of Knoxville and of the neighboring country: Quercus prinus saxosa; Quercus prinus humilis; Quercus rubra; Quercus proemorsa; Quercus tomentosa; Quercus pinnatifida; Quercus alba ...; Ulmus viscosa; Ulmus fungosa; Fraxinus ...; Diospiros Virginiana; Liquidambar styraciflua; Juglans nigra, alba or oblonga, hiccory pignut. Platanus occidentalis; Nyssa aquatica; Fagus castanea americana; Fagus pumila; Fagus sylvatica americana; Magnolia acuminata; Betula alnus americanus; Cercis Canadensis; Cornus florida; Evonimus latifolius, Evonimus Americanus; Podophyllum peltatum; Jeffersonia; Sanguinaria Canadensis; Trillium sessile.

Remained the whole week at Knoxville and herborised in the vicinity while awaiting a sufficiently numerous caravan to pass through the Wilderness.

Sunday 31st of May received notice that twenty five armed travelers were on the point of arriving at Knoxville.

Monday 1st of June 1795, old style, the journey was again put off.

Thursday 4th of June started from Knoxville and slept 15 miles away at captain Camel’s at the place called Camel [Campbell] station.

Friday the 5th, slept at the place called West Point on Clinch river, a Post of soldiers guarding the frontiers of the territory,[96] 25 Miles from Camel station.

The 6th started and crossed the river in a Scow or ferry connected with West point station. Our journey covered 10 miles. The Travelers consisted of 15 armed men and more than thirty women and children.

Sunday 7th of June crossed the Mountains called Cumberland Mountains, 22 Miles.

The 8th continued our march in the Mountains 23 Miles. Magnolia petalis basi purpureis.[97]

Tuesday 9th of June 1795, alternately ascended and descended the Mountains. In the bottom lands Magnolia tripetala in abundance, 25 Miles.

The 10th arrived at the Cumberland River, 10 Miles, and slept beyond the 20th Mile.

The 11th arrived at Blodsoe Lick or Blodsoe station,[98] 20 Miles. 120 Miles in all of the Wilderness.

Slept at this place where there is food for men and Horses.

Friday the 12th, came one mile to Colonel Winchester’s;[99] slept there two nights to rest myself and my Horse.

Sunday the 14th herborised.

The 15th came to the house of a resident near Cumberland River, Mr. Jackson;[100] soil fertile. Oaks, Quercus prinus: Quercus rubra, Quercus glandibus magnis, capsulâ includentibus, called Overcup White Oak.[101] Quercus tomentosa,[102] Quercus praemorsa. 25 Miles.

The 16th arrived at Nashville 12 Miles.

Total 197 Miles from Knoxville to Nashville, the capital of the Cumberland Settlements on the Cumberland river.[103]

The 17th visited various persons, Daniel Smith,[104] Colonel Robertson,[105] Captain Gordon, [G. M.] Deaderick, Dr White, Thomas Craighead[106] etc. etc.

Herborised on the following days.

Trees of Nashville Territory:

Quercus prinus; Quercus phellos latifolia; Quercus pinnatifida; Quercus foliis lyratis subtus tomentosis calycibus maximis margine laciniatis glandibus includentibus Vulgo; Over cup White Oak;[107] Quercus rubra; Quercus tomentosa; Acer saccharum, Acer negundo, Acer rubrum; Juglans nigra, oblonga, hiccory: Platanus occidentalis; Liquidamber styraciflua; Ulmus viscosa fungosa;[108] Carpinus Ostrya americana; Rhamnus Alaternus latifolius, Rhamnus frangula?[109] frutex prunifer; Juniperus Virginiana. Banks of Cumberland river Philadelphus inodorus; Aristolochia siphotomentosa;[110] Mimosa erecta-herbacea; Mirabilis[111] clandestina seu umbellata seu parviflora; Hypericum Kalmianum grandiflorum.[112]

Soil of Nashville clayey, rocky, limestone Rocks somewhat similar to the Kentuckey formation, position of the Rocks horizontal, occasionally Quartz Veins in the Rocks, abounding in marine petrifactions.

Sunday 21st of June 1795, killed and skinned some birds.

Birds: Robin, Cardinal, Tetrao (grouse), Lanius Tyrannus rare, Quantities of the Genus Muscicopa; few species of the Genus Picus: Wild Turkeys. Quadrupeds: Musk-rat, Beaver, Elk, dwarf Deer, Bears, Buffalos, Wolves, small grey Squirrels.

Minerals: soil clayey. Limestone Rocks always in a horizontal position; impure Slate, flocks of schistus; Petrifactions of land and fresh-water shells.

Monday 22nd of June 1795 (Old style) 4th of Messidor in the 3rd year of the Republic, started from Nashville for Kentuckey; passed by Mansko’s Lick,[113] 12 miles from Nashville; slept at Major Sharp’s[114] 29 Miles from Nashville.

The 23rd crossed the Barren oaks and slept at [Drake’s] Creek. There is no house in the interval. The Soil produces only black oaks. 30 Miles.

The 24th passed by Big Barren River. The man who keeps the Ferry is well supplied with provisions.[115] The distance is 3 Miles from [Drake] Creek.

Crossed the Barrens and slept on the ground without a fire and without allowing my horse to graze at large through fear of the Savages.

The 25th passed by Little Barren River, the first house 43 Miles from Big Barren River. Afterward passed by Green River 6 Miles from Little Barren River.

The 26th passed by Roland [Rolling] fork, head of Salt River, 30 Miles from Green River.

The 27th arrived at Danville 35 Miles from Roland old fork.

From Nashville to Danville, the oldest town in Kentuckey 117 Miles.

Sunday 28th of June rested.

The 29th skinned three striped Squirrels (Sciurus striatus)

The 30th herborised.

Wednesday 1st of July 1795 visited several residents.

The 2nd continued rain.

The 3rd put my old Collections in order.

The 4th

Sunday 5th of July[116]

Sunday 12th of July dined with the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby.

Thursday 16th of July 1795 left Danville.

The 17th passed by Beardston forty three Miles from Danville.

The 18th arrived at Stanford’s near Man’s Lick.[117]

Sunday 19th remained to await my Baggage.

The 20th remained, and being obliged to stay, watched the Process of manufacturing Salt. The Wells for getting the salt water are dug to a depth of about ... feet. Muddy clay is met with to a depth of ... feet. Then ... feet of slatey rock. When the rock is pierced the salt water is found at a depth of more than ... feet. This slate burns in the fire as if impregnated with bitumen or entirely made up of that substance. Bones of those great marine bodies that are rather frequently met with on the banks of the Ohio have been found in the impure clay that was dug up to reach the slatey rock.

The 21st of July, arrived at Louisville, 40 Miles from Beardstown.

The 22nd and 23rd remained and herborised.

The 24th returned to Manslick, 16 Miles from Louisville.

The 25th returned to Louisville.

Sunday 26th of July herborised.

Plants in the neighborhood of Louisville: Quercus cerroides,[118] Quercus rubra; Quercus alba; Quercus prinus; Liriodendron; Fagus castanea, Fagus sylvatica; Rhus foliis alatis dioique; Hibiscus[119] foliis hastatis calyce exteriore lacinis subulatis flore pallide roseo.[120]

Saturday first of August made ready to leave for the Wabash and the Illinois.

Sunday the 2nd I was invited to dine with a Frenchman named La Cassagne,[121] a resident of Louisville for more than 15 Years.

Trees, shrubs and Plants of Louisville territory:

Liriodendron tulipifera; Platanus occidentalis; Acer rubrum foliis inferne argenteis; Fagus sylvatica americana; Quercus rubra; Quercus alba, Quercus praemorsa,[122] Quercus prinus, Quercus cerroides;[122] Tilia americana; Juglans nigra, Juglans alba, Juglans hiccory, (Juglans pacane rare); Gleditsia triacanthos, Guilandina dioica.

Sunday 9th of August 1795, started from Louisville and slept at Clarksville,[123] two miles from Louisville on the opposite Bank of the Ohio.

The 10th we set out and arrived at Post Vincennes situate on the Wabash River on Thursday the 13th of August in the evening.[124] The distance is considered to be one hundred and twenty five Miles. On the day of our arrival we crossed a River about 20 miles before reaching Post Vincennes and although the Waters were then very low we were on the point of making a Raft for the Country is not inhabited along this Road. Of all the Journeys I have made in America in the past 10 years this is one of the most difficult owing to the quantity of Trees overturned by storms, to the thick brushwood through which one is obliged to pass; to the numbers of Flies by which one is devoured, etc.

The 14th, 15th and Sunday the 16th of August I was obliged to rest having arrived almost ill. My horse, while trying to jump over the trunk of a large fallen tree, fell and threw me a great distance and I suffered for several days from an injury to the lower part of the Chest on the left side because the trigger of my gun had struck there.

The 17th spent a portion of the day herborising on the banks of the Wabash River.

I continued herborising on the following days.

The 18th of August 1795

List of Plants observed on the Wabash:

No. 1—Verbena[125] urticifolia caule erecto, paniculis divaricatis, bracteis flore brevioribus, floribus albis.

No. 2—Verbena[126] ..., caule erecto, paniculis fastigiatis erectis, bracteis et calycibus pilosis, floribus purpureo-ceruleis.

No. 3—Verbena[127] caule erecto, paniculis rectis foliis ovatis, tomentosis, duplicato-serratis.

No. 4—Verbena ...

No. 5—Verbena[128] caule repente, foliis pinnatifidis, bracteis longissimis.

Silphium perfoliatum, Silphium connatum, Silphium laciniatum, Silphium grandifolium, Silphium trisoliatum, Silphium pinnatifidum. Andropogon muticum; Holcus? ...; Poa ...; Quercus cerroides Chêne frisé, Overcup White Oak; Quercus latifolia Chêne à latte Ram’s Oak; Quercus ... Polygonum aviculare staminibus 5, Stylis 3; Polygonum aviculare majus staminibus 5, Stylis 3. Trifolium? pentandrum majus; Trifolium? pentandrum floribus purpureis; Sanicula[129] marylandica or [called] Racine à Becquel by the Illinois French and Sakintépouah by the Pians[130] Savages: A decoction of the root is a sovereign remedy for several diseases and for long-continued venereal diseases.

Sunday 23rd of August 1795 started from Post Vincennes situated on the Wabash River for the Illinois on the Mississipi. We journeyed six Miles and camped on the bank of a Little River [Embarras]. I had no other company than a Savage and his wife. I had hired the Savage for ten Dollars and promised him two Dollars more to induce him to carry all my baggage on his horse.

The 24th we made about 25 Miles; the Savage was ill and was obliged to stop more than three hours before sunset.

The 25th crossed several Prairies. Observed a new species of Gerardia.[131] Stalk commonly simple, oval leaves opposite one another, sessile, axillary flowers purpurine flowers.

The 26th the Provision of meat was consumed. The Savage stopped very early, finding a favorable spot for hunting. Moreover heavy Rain fell about three o’clock in the afternoon. An hour after camping the Savage came back laden with a Bear cub and with the two hams of another and much older one. We boiled the kettle twice and had enough to satisfy us. We roasted what remained.

The 27th the Savage killed two Stags. We halted very early to dry the Skins and to eat, for the Savage and his wife ate five meals a day. Moreover, they regaled themselves with the marrow of the bones which they ate raw; for, being unable to carry away the meat, they contented themselves with a piece of the animal’s loins.

The 28th of August 1795. Just as I was eager to see Game the 1st and 2nd day, so was I afraid to see it then owing to the waste of time. I was all the more anxious to proceed that it rained every day. I had already been obliged once to dry at a fire my baggage that had been wet through especially four books of Botany and Mineralogy I had with me, as I had been unwilling to expose them to the hazards of the River and had sent by way of the Mississipi two Trunks containing grey Paper, Powder, Lead, Alum, Boxes for collecting Insects, and all the articles required for making Collections of Plants, Animals, Insects and Minerals.