Sunday 30th of August arrived at the village of Kaskaskia[132] situated two mile from the Mississipi river and half a mile from the Kaskaskia River. It is inhabited by former Frenchmen under the American Government. The number of families is about forty five. It is agreeably situated but the number of inhabitants had decreased; nothing is to be seen but houses in ruins and abandoned because the French of the Illinois country, having always been brought up in and accustomed to the Fur trade with the savages, have become the laziest and most ignorant of all men. They live and the majority of them are clothed in the manner of the Savages. They wear no breeches but pass between their thighs a piece of cloth of about one third of an ell [in length] which is kept in place before and behind above the hips by a belt.

The 31st of August herborised.

Tuesday the first of September continued my herborising; also on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of the same.

The 5th started for the village called Prairie du Rocher about 15 miles distant from Kaskaskia.[133] Passed by the village of St Philippe abandoned by the French and inhabited by three families of Americans.[134] This village is 9 Miles from Prairie du Rocher.

The 6th arrived at Kaskia [Cahokia][135] near the Mississipi ... Miles from Prairie du Rocher.

The 7th herborised and visited the neighborhood of Kaskia.

The 8th started to return to Kaskaskia and arrived there on the 9th.

The 10th continued herborising in the vicinity of Kaskaskia Village until the 13th of the same month.

Sunday the 13th of September crossed over with a savage guide to the south bank of the Kaskaskia River and continued to herborise there until the 18th of the same month.

The 18th and 19th Rained continually. Put my Collections in order and gave my horse a rest.

Sunday the 20th ...

Kaskaskia 45 families; Prairie du Rocher from 22 to 24 families. St. Philippe 3 American families. Fort de Chartres in ruins.[136] Kaskias 120 families. Americans at Corne de Cerf and at Bellefontaine[137] 35 families. St Louis flourishing[138] ... Prairies and hills.

Friday 2nd of October started to go by land to the place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi. Owing to the difficulty experienced in crossing the Kaskaskia river we traveled only 12 Miles.

The 3rd and Sunday the 4th Rained and we crossed several prairies. Traveled about 27 Miles.

The 5th passed more Prairies intersected by strips of Forest. My guide killed an Elk called Cerf by the Canadians and French of Illinois. This animal is much larger (twice as large) than the dwarf Deer of the United States of which there is an abundance also in the Illinois country and which the French of these countries call Chevreuil. Its antlers are twice the size of those of the European Stags. Below each of its two eyes is a cavity which keeps closed but, by separating the two sides like eyelids, one can insert a finger to the depth of an inch. This cavity seems intended for the purpose of secreting some kind of humor. In fact on opening the cavity I found a substance of the form and consistency of a hare’s dropping but of the size of an acorn. This animal has canine teeth in the upper and lower jaw like those of horses, called fangs. The hunters say that this animal is always very fat. In fact this one was exceedingly so. Traveled about 32 Miles.

The 6th entered the forests and crossed several rivers. Traveled ... miles.

The 7th of October 1795 my guide killed a Buffalo which he considered to be about four years old. It seemed to weigh over nine hundred pounds. As it was not very fat my guide told me it was very common to see animals at that age weighing over twelve hundred pounds. It seemed larger than any Oxen in France and to surpass them in length and size.

Thursday the 8th saw another Buffalo thirty toises from our Road. We stopped to look at it. It walked very slowly but after a couple of minutes it stopped and, recognizing us, ran away with extraordinary speed. On the same day arrived at Fort Cheroquis otherwise called Fort Massac by the Americans.[139] 125 Miles.

The 9th of October 1795 herborised on the bank of the Mississipi: Platanus Liquidamber Bonducs, pekan Nut-trees, hiccory Nut-trees, called by the French Noyers durs; prickly Nuts (by the French Noyer amer) round Nuts. White Oak, Quercus alba, Quercus rubra ramosissima, Quercus cerroides (by the French chêne frisé and by the Americans overcup White Oak), Quercus prinus, Quercus integrifolia[140] or Quercus foliis junioribus omnibus et adultis semper integerrimis margine undulatis apice setaceis. This species of oak abounds in the Illinois Country. It loses its leaves later than the other species of Oak. The French inhabitants call it Chêne à lattes. In Lower Carolina it is rather rare but keeps its leaves until the month of February or March. It seems to resemble the green Oak from which it differs in the shape of its acorns.

Nyssa montana rather rare; Gleditsia triacanthos; Robinia pseudoacacia (by the French fevier). The Gleditsia triacanthos is called fevier épineux and the Guilandina dioica Gros fevier and the seeds Gourganes. Note. On the Illinois river is a species or variety of Guilandina dioica whose seeds are twice as big as those on the Banks of the Mississipi, Cumberland etc. Liana Rajanioides; Anonymos[141] ligustroides; Vitis[142] monosperma, this species is found along the Rivers and not in the interior of the forest; I saw it on the Kaskaskia River, on the Mississipi in the vicinity of fort Massac, on the Tenasse river, but it completely covers the banks of the Cumberland river from its mouth to a distance of 45 Miles.

Sunday 11th of October 1795 started with a Guide to ascend the Cumberland (Shavanon) river[143] in a Canoe. The rain compelled us to return.

Tuesday the 13th hired two men at a dollar a day each to ascend the Rivers of the Territory of the Cheroquis Savages. Started from fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac. The distance is six Miles to reach the mouth of the Tenassee River called by the French of Illinois Cheroquis River.[144] This river is very great and very wide. After ascending it about six miles we saw the tracks of a Bear on the bank. We stopped and entered the wood when we came upon a she Bear with cubs. The dog pursued the Mother, the cubs climbed a tree; I killed one and the guides killed the two others. We passed the night at that place.

The 14th very heavy Fog; we made only 5 Miles. Rain began to fall about noon.

The 16th paddled or rowed about ten Miles owing to a heavy Wind that began by a storm the previous evening and continued a part of the day. We camped opposite an Island or Chain of Rocks running nearly across the River. Nevertheless there is a channel on the south Bank that is fairly deep and sufficient for the passage of large boats.

Banks of the Cheroquis river (Tenassee): Platanus; Juglans pacana, Hiccori, pignut; Liquidambar; Quercus rubra, prinus; Anonymos carpinoides; Anonymos ligustroides;[145] Betula austrolis grey-bark Birch,[146] which is found throughout America from Virginia to the Floridas; it differs from the Betula papyrifera; Bignonia catalpa; Ulmus; Fraxinus; Vitis rubra or monosperma; Gleditsia triacanthos; Diospiros; Smilax pseudochina; Bignonia crucigera, radicans; Rajania ... Dioecia 8-dria; Populus Caroliniana, by the French Creoles Liard, and by the Americans Cotton tree. (Note: The Canada Poplar is called by the Canadians Tremble and by the English of Canada Quaking Aspen); Acer rubrum, saccharinum, negundo; Anonymos ligustroides; Anonymos ulmoides.[147]

(The 22nd of June 1795, according to the Gazette the Agents of the French Republic were recognized by President Washington

Philip Joseph Letombe, Consul General

Théodore Charles Mozard, Consul at Boston

Jean Anthony Bern Rosier, Consul at New York

Léon Delaunay, Pennsylvania

Louis Etienne Duhait, Maryland)[148]

The 15th October 1795 herborised.

The 16th descended the river and camped at the mouth of the Shavanon River called Cumberland river by the Americans eighteen Miles from fort Massac; killed a Canada Goose called by the French Canadians and Illinois French Outarde; killed two water-Hens an American kingfisher, an American pelican.

The 17th ascended the River about ten Miles; there were numbers of wild Turkeys on the banks; the Rowers and I killed five from the Canoe in passing, without landing.

The 18th continued on our way toward the upper part of the River.

The 19th descended the river.

Tuesday 20th of October 1795 returned to Fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac.

Trees and Plants in the neighborhood on the Banks of the Ohio.

Platanus occidentalis, by the Americans Sycamore and by the Illinois French cotonnier; Populus, by the Americans Cotton tree and by the Illinois French, Liard; Celtis occidentalis, by the Americans Hackberry tree and by the French Bois inconnu; Liquidambar styraciflua, by the French of Louisiana Copalm and by the Americans....

A Frenchman who traded among the Cheroquis Savages cured himself of the Itch by drinking for ten days a decoction of Chips of that tree which he called Copalm and which is the true Liquidambar; Gleditsia triacanthos, fevier (bean-plant) by the French and sweet locust by the Americans.

Guilandina dioica.[149]

Sunday 25th of October 1795 Spiraea trifoliata is a purgative used by the Savages and by the Illinois French. They call it Papiconah. In the neighborhood of Fort Cheroquis is found also the Geranium called herbe or rather Racine à Becquet which is given for chronic Diseases during several weeks; Veronica virginica called by the French herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass) is often added.

Sunday first of November I was obliged to defer my departure, my Horse not having been found.

Friday the 6th my Horse was brought back to the Fort and I at once made ready to start for the Illinois. Started the same day and journeyed about 18 Miles.

The 7th the Rain began early in the morning and continued all day. Remained camped under a Rock where I had stopped the previous day with my Guide.

Sunday the 8th traveled through woods and Hills.

The 9th, the same.

The 10th arrived toward evening at the Prairies.

The 11th crossed the Prairies.

The 12th toward evening Re-entered the Woods once more and slept 7 Miles from Kaskaskia river.

The 13th arrived before breakfast at Kaskaskia about 130 Miles from Fort Massac.

The 13th of November I rested.

Sunday the 14th went out to hunt Canada Geese.

The 15th put my Collections of seeds in order.

The 16th same occupation.

The 17th I went Hunting.

Thursday 18th started for Prairie du Rocher.

The 19th Duck Hunting.

The 20th Goose Hunting.

Sunday 22nd paid visits.

The 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th visited the Mountains of Rock bordering on the inhabited Country; Opossums, Raccoons, aquatic Birds etc.

Sunday 29th of November went to the Village of St Philippe called the Little Village.

The 30th visited Fort de Chartres.

Tuesday the 1st of December started for Kaskaskias and remained there.

The 2nd and 3rd of the same Made arrangements with Richard[150] to go by water to Cumberland.

The 4th returned to Prairie du Rocher.

The 5th prepared to start. Stuffed a white-headed wild Goose.

The 6th started once more for Kaskaskias.

The 7th confirmed once more in my opinion that the Second Bark of Celtis occidentalis (called in the Illinois country Bois connu and toward New Orleans Bois inconnu) is an excellent remedy for curing jaundice; a handful of the roots or leaves of Smilax sarsaparilla is added to it; it is used for about eight days as a decoction.

The 8th of December 1795. The French Creoles call the species of Smilax found in the Illinois country, Squine. Only the thorny species grows there; it loses its leaves in the Autumn. The other species is herbaceous and climbing.

The 9th of December. The root of Fagara as a decoction is a powerful remedy for curing disease of the Spleen. I have no doubt that the root of Zanthoxilum clava-Herculi can be used for obstructions of the liver and Spleen.

The 10th: Bignonia Catalpa,[151] by the French Creoles Bois Shavanon; Cercis canadensis, Bois noir (black wood); Liriodendron tulipifera, Bois jaune (yellow wood); Nyssa, Olivier (olive). In making Wheels for vehicles the workmen use the Wood of Padus Virginiana for the felloes, Elm for the Naves and white oak for the Spokes.

The 11th of December. Confirmed once more in my opinion that the root of Veronica Virginiana, vulgarly known as Herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass), used as a decoction for a month, is effective for the cure of venereal Diseases. Four or five of the roots are boiled. As this beverage is purgative the strength of this Ptisan must be increased or reduced by putting more or less according to the effect it has on one. It is sufficient for the first days that the bowels be relaxed and looser than usual; it is not unusual that the bowels be moved 3 or 4 times the first day.

I was informed at Illinois that Mackey a Scotchman and Even a Welshman, started at the end of July 1795 from St Louis to ascend the Missouri in a 4 oared Barge. They are aided by a Company whereof Charles Morgan, a creole from the Islands, is Manager.[152]

December the [12th] 1795.

Sunday the 13th made my preparations for the journey to Cumberland.

The 14th started for Cumberland; passed the Salt spring on Spanish territory. Observed Tagetoides. Learned the news of the peace between France and Spain. Slept six miles from the Salt spring. Observed on the banks of the Mississipi river Equisetum which the French Creoles call Prêle. This Plant has here a circumference of nearly one inch and the stalk is 4 feet high.

The 15th passed Cape St Côme[153] at the foot of which the Mississipi makes an angle. Fish is caught here in abundance; the distance from Kaskaskia is eighteen Miles. Camped at Girardeau[154] 17 leagues from Kaskaskia.

The 16th continued for 6 hours with Hills and Rocks on the shores of the river, then low land. We camped at the place where the Belle Rivière [Ohio] falls into the Mississipi. On the opposite bank was camped Governor Don Gayoso, Governor of Natchez and upper Louisiana.[155] He sent a Boat to find out who we were and, learning that I was a passenger, he came to see me. He told me the news of the Peace between France and Spain. He offered me his services. The distance from Cape Girardeau to the Mouth of the Belle Rivière is eighteen leagues and in all 35 leagues from Illinois.

The 17th camped at a distance of about 7 leagues.

The 18th arrived near Fort Massac; seven leagues.

The 19th camped opposite the Mouth of the River Cheroquis or Tenasse.

Sunday the 20th passed by la Pacanière; this is an extensive Swamp on the North West side bordered by Pekan Nut-trees situate opposite or rather a little before entering the Cumberland River.

The same day Sunday 20th of December, entered the River Shavanon or Cumberland River the mouth of which is six long leagues from Fort Massac. Slept two leagues above the Mouth.

The 21st rowed about 8 leagues.

The 22nd rowed about 7 leagues, and slept at the great Eddy which is considered to be at a distance of forty five miles from the mouth.[156]

The 23rd we camped above the Isle aux Saules (Willow Island); rowed about 12 Miles or 4 leagues.

The 24th remained in camp. Rained all day. The River which was very easy to navigate until today, rose considerably and flooded the woods.

The 25th Rain continued to fall mixed with hail. Remained in Camp.

The 26th Remained in camp on account of the rising of the river whose current was too strong.

Sunday 27th of December 1795. rowed about 4 Miles only owing to the difficulty of rowing against the current of the river. Camped at the mouth of Little River.

The 28th crossed to the opposite bank. The current was as rapid as on the previous days and compelled us to camp. White frost.

The 29th it again Rained heavily. Remained in camp.

The 30th the River having overflowed and flooded all parts of the woods, we shifted camp and returned to the Little river; we ascended it until we came to a Hill high enough to relieve us from the fear of being flooded. Rain.

The 31st the weather became clear, the wind shifted to the North but the river continued to overflow its banks. Most of us went hunting wild Turkeys.

Friday first of January 1796. Wind from the north; Frost; the River rose one inch during the night.

In the vicinity of Little river, the Country has Hills scattered here and there. Soil clayey, very rich Mould, Rock consisting of Silex very slightly ferruginous. Blue Limestone.

Animals: Raccoons, dwarf Deer, Opossums, Buffaloes, Bears, grey Squirrels, Beaver, Otter, Musk-rats (these three species very rare).

Birds: Ravens, Owls of the large species, Cardinals, blue Jays; green Parroquets with yellow heads of the small species; Jays with red heads and throats.

Trees and Plants: Liriodendron; Liquidambar; yellow chestnut Oak, red Oak; Annona; horn-bean.

The 2nd of January, still remained in camp at the same spot. Weather cloudy. The River fell two inches only.

Sunday the 3rd Heavy wind. Nyassa montana is called by the French Creoles Olivier Sauvage and by the Kentucky Americans Black Gum tree and by the Pennsylvania Americans Tupelo. Having nothing to do I made ink with gall nuts which I gathered on the Oaks in the vicinity of the spot where we were camped. It was made in less than five minutes and will serve me as a sample. In the neighborhood of Little river Liriodendron; Liquidambar; Carpinus ostrya; Ulmus fungosa; Padus Virginiana minor; Laurus benzoin etc.

The 4th rowed about 4 or 5 Miles. Camped near rather high Hills consisting of shifting soil and rolled boulders. Carpinus ostrya; Ulmus fungosa; Padus Virginiana minor; Philadelphus inodorus; Nyssa montana, by the Americans Black gum; Acer rubrum; Viscum parasite; Fagus Americana and Orobanche Virginiana a parasite on the roots of the Fagus Americana; Betula spuria[157] called by the French Bouleau bâtard.

Tuesday 5th of January 1796 we rowed 7 Miles and camped opposite Diev Island 12 Miles from Little River.

The 6th the snow that fell during the night had cooled the weather. Steep limestone Rocks from the place where we were camped continuing for about a Mile on the east bank. Rowed about 8 Miles.

The 7th The River fell 19 inches during the night; as the frost had lowered the water this led us to hope that it would be easier to row against the current of this river which is naturally hemmed in between Hills. Rowed about 8 Miles.

The 8th the river fell 19 inches during the night. Passed by the Island of the boundary line between Cumberland and Kentuckey.

Plants on the Banks: Platanus occidentalis; Betula australis or spuria; Acer rubrum; Ulmus Americana; Fraxinus; Salix on the low Islands; Anonymos ligustroides. Rowed about 10 Miles.

The 9th the river fell nearly five feet during the night. We rowed about ten Miles.

Sunday 10th of January the River fell 4 feet during the night. Continual Rain and Snow. Passed Yellow Creek 16 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Passed Blowming grove (?) 13 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Rocks and Hills. Passed Dixon Island (?) 10 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville and at present the most remote Settlement of Cumberland territory. This Settlement consists of fifteen families who established themselves there three months ago. The chief place of this settlement is called Blount’s borough or Blount’s ville.

The 11th Rained all the previous night and a portion of the day. Passed by a chain of Hills and by a rock called Red painted rock on the right side of the River that is to say on the north bank of the river 2 Miles from Clark’s ville. Afterwards passed by the red river whose mouth is likewise on the north side and a quarter of a mile from Clark’s ville. Finally arrived at Clark’s ville.[158]

The 12th of January 1796, remained at Clark’s ville on account of the river rising.

The 13th Doctor Brown of Carolina who had come to found this new town Blount’s borough 10 Miles above Clark’s ville, was at the latter place.[159]

The 15th bought a horse at the price of one hundred Dollars.

The 16th departed; my horse ran away and I caught him 6 Miles from Clark’s ville at the Mill, 10 Miles.

Sunday the 17th dined 10 Miles from Nashville at Ebneston’s a quarter of a Mile from the Mill at the house of an old Pennsylvanian, an educated man well informed as regards foreign news.[160] Slept at Crokes 18 Miles from Ebneston. The Widow Martin lives near there and her house is better for travelers.

The 18th passed the Ridges, 15 Miles, without seeing any houses as far as White Creek. Old Stumps[161] lives 5 miles from White Creek.

The 19th started from Stumps’ and arrived at Nashville 5 Miles.

Total from Clark’s ville to Nashville 54 Miles by land and 70 Miles by water.

(Prices at Nashville): Dinner 2 shillings, Breakfast or supper 1 shilling 4 pence; ½ Quart of Whiskey 1 shilling. Hay and maize for Horse 2 shillings. The whole is six Shillings for one Dollar.

The 20th, 21st, and 22nd remained at Nashville.

The 23rd started from Nashville and journeyed 29¾ Miles; lodged with Major Sharp.

Sunday the 24th of January 1796 arrived at a Creek at a distance of 29 Miles near which one Chapman keeps lodgings at 3½ Miles; MacFaddin on Big Brown [Barren] keeps a ferry and lodgings. Total 32½ Miles.

The 25th Rain and Snow.

The 26th Started for Green river. The ground was covered with snow, the Roads rough and my horse fell lame. I was obliged to walk. I made 12 miles. I was unable to light a fire because the trees and wood were all frosted. I spent the night nearly frozen. About 2 o’clock the Moon rose and I resolved to return to MacFaddin’s where I arrived at 10 o’clock in the morning.

The 27th being overcome by cold and weariness, having traveled afoot, having eaten nothing since the morning of the previous day and not having slept during the night, the toes of my right foot became inflamed. I bathed my feet in cold water several times during the following night and no sores resulted therefrom but for several days the toes were numb and as if deprived of sensation.

The 28th I was compelled to go a distance of seven Miles to get my horse shod and I went to sleep at Mr. Maddison’s whose plantation was close by.

The 29th of January 1796 I started very early in the morning as I had 38 Miles to travel without coming to an inn or other habitation. I had been received with all the civility that can be expected from a man who has had a higher education than the other inhabitants of the country. This Mr Maddisson was a Virginian and a relative of the celebrated Madisson, Member of Congress. This gentleman was a true Republican in his principles and I spent a very interesting and very pleasant evening at his house.[162] His wife surpassed him in offering me every service that hospitality could suggest, which is seldom met with in America except in the case of persons better educated than the common people. That Lady suggested that I should wear heavy woollen socks over my shoes. She herself cut me out a pair and I was so surprised at the comfort I derived from them on the following days that I resolved never to travel in the season of snow and frost without taking the precaution to have a pair in my Porte Monteau. In the evening I came to a place three Miles from Green river and slept at the house of one Walter; I slept on the floor and my horse in the open air; but I was accustomed to this.

The 30th I crossed the Green river ferry in the morning. The cold was excessive and such as had not been felt for Many years. At 9 Miles I passed by Bacon Creek and the Cabin of a man but recently settled there and who was unprovided with everything, even Maize, needed for the sustenance of his household. At 22 Miles from Green River is the House of one Ragon and I hurried on to reach some better habitations before night. 26 Miles from Green River I perceived a House 200 toises[163] from the Road situate on the bank of a Creek. The inhabitant was a German who had been settled there only a year; he had a good stable, was well supplied with fodder of wheat, straw, and Maize leaves for my horse, and I ate Wheat bread for the first time since I had left Illinois. My supper consisted of bread and milk and I found myself very well treated. The name of my host was George Cloes; a German by Birth; his house is situated on the South fork of Nolin river.

Sunday the 31st passed by Huggins mill[164] on Nolin river (good lodgings); at a quarter of a Mile the road on the right hand leads to Beardston. At 2½ Miles the new cut road is straight. At 9 Miles passed by Rolling fork and 4 Miles further slept at Mr. Scoth’s on Beech fork.

Monday 1st of February 1796 passed by Dr Smith’s house 8 Miles from Beech fork and by Mackinsy 9 Miles from Beech fork. From Mac Kinsy to Long Lake 6 Miles. From Longlake to Sheperdston on Salt river 4 miles.[165] From Shepperdston to Standeford 9 Miles (good inn). From Standeford to Prince Old station 8 Miles. From Prince to Louisville 6 Miles.

The 2nd started from Prince’s and arrived at Louisville. 3½ Miles before arriving measured a Liriodendron tulipifera on the left hand road whose size was twenty two feet in circumference, making more than seven feet in diameter. (Correspondent of Monsieur La Cassagne and St. James Bauvais at New Orleans Monsieur Serpe Trader at New Orleans.[166] Correspondent of Monsieur La Cassagne at Philadelphia Geguir and Holmes, Merchants, Philadelphia. Prices: Dinner 1 shilling 6 pence; Supper and Breakfast 1 shilling 6 pence; Lodging 9 shillings; ½ quart of Brandy 2 shillings 3 pence; Horse per day on hay and maize 3 shillings 9 pence.)

The 3rd, 4th and 5th remained at Louisville, being occupied in gathering together the Collections I had left with one La Cassagne.

The 6th I saw General Clarke and he informed me of the visit of Colonel Fulton who had come from France a few months previously.[167]

Sunday the 7th breakfasted with General Clarke’s Father whose house is 4 miles from Louisville. I wanted to obtain more ample information regarding Lieutenant-Colonel Foulton. I was told that he was to proceed to Philadelphia immediately after having gone to Georgia. That he was to embark for France and hoped to return to America at the end of this summer 1796. The same day, I started to return to Nashville. Slept at Standeford. 14 Miles from Louisville. (Supper 1 shilling, Bed 6 pence. Hay for the horse for the night 1 shilling. Maize 8 quarts 1 shilling 4 pence.)

Monday 8th of February 1796. (Breakfast 1 shilling) Passed by Sheperdston 9 Miles from Standeford. Maize for horse 3 quarts, 9 Pence, Virginia money, as in all parts of Kentuckey and Cumberland. Passed by Long lake, where Salt is made as well as at Sheperdston and slept at Mackinsy’s 7 Miles from Longlake.

In swampy places in the vicinity of Longlake: Quercus alba; Quercus cerroides; Fraxinus ...; Nyssa; Laurus benjoin; Sassafras; Mitchella repens; Fagus sylvatica americana.

On the hills: Pinus[168] foliis geminis conis oblongis minoribus squamis aculeis retrocurvis. Saw planks of this tree at the house of an inhabitant; the wood seemed to me almost as heavy as that of the three leaved Pine of Carolina. Tar is also made of it in this part of Kentucky.

The 9th I started very early in the morning from Mackinsy’s. I had been very well received there that is to say he gave me a supper of boiled Pork; the same for breakfast. My horse fared very well on Maize fodder and in a Stable that was not muddy like all those in America when one lodges with Americans or with Irish.

I paid 3 shillings, being 1 shilling 6 pence for my horse and as much for myself. I had paid 5 shillings for my lodging the previous night and had not been so well satisfied. As the daughter of this house was the smartest of any I had ever seen in America I gave her a quarter of a Dollar and the old man offered me a stuffed Tongue but I thanked him, not being fond of salt meat.

It began to rain an hour after I started but I was fortunate enough to pass Beechford and Rollingford. 13 Miles from Mackinsy’s.

I was obliged to stop at the house of an inhabitant a Mile and a half from the crossing and the Rain compelled me to pass the night there.

In the neighborhood there is Liriodendron with yellow wood and in some parts Liriodendron with white wood. The inhabitants prefer the yellow variety.

Wednesday 10th of February 1796, I had supped the previous evening on Tea made from the shrub called Spice-wood. A handful of young twigs or branches is set to boil and after it has boiled at least a quarter of an hour sugar is added and it is drunk like real Tea. There was no Milk at the time and I was told that Milk makes it much more agreeable to the taste. This beverage restores strength and it had that effect for I was very tired when I arrived. This shrub is the Laurus Benjoin Linn. The Illinois French call it Poivrier and the hunters season their meat with some pieces of its wood.

In the vicinity grows a plant[169] of the Orchis family whose leaf remains all winter. There are seldom two; the form is oval, furrowed, entire; the root bears two or three very viscous bulbs. It is used in the Country to mend broken crockery. It is called Adam and Eve. This plant is more common in the rich low lands of the territory West of the Allegany Mountains. I have also seen it in Lower Carolina but it is very rare there. It is not rare in Illinois.

Rain continued to fall all day and I was obliged to spend the night in a house near Nolin Creek because the river had overflowed its banks.

The 11th arrived at Huggins’s 12 Miles from Rollinford.

The 12th passed through a Country covered with grass and Oaks which no longer exist as forests, having been burned every year. These lands are called Barren lands although not really sterile. The grasses predominate: Salix pumila, Quercus nigra and Quercus alba called Mountain White Oak. Gnaphalium dioicum also grows there in abundance. It is called by the Americans White Plantain.

The same day 12th of February 1796 passed by Bacon Creek, a new settlement 19 Miles from Huggins Mill and arrived at Green river 9 Miles from Bacon Creek. Slept 3 Miles further on at the house of one Walter.

The 13th of February traveled 37 Miles without seeing a House through the lands called Barren lands. The Salix pumila that grows there in abundance is the same as that which is very common in the Illinois prairies as one leaves Vincennes Post to go to Kaskaskia. Slept beyond the Big Barren river.

Sunday the 14th traveled about 30 Miles. In all the Houses the children were suffering from Hooping Cough. This disease probably results from a simple Cold but the reprehensible system of living continually on salt and smoked meat fried in the pan produces those acrid humors that render expectoration more difficult.

The 15th traveled 27 Miles and arrived at Nashville. Supper, bed and breakfast 2 shillings.

The 16th started to go and visit Colonel Hays[170] a wealthy inhabitant to whom I had been recommended the previous year by Governor Blount, Governor of the Country known under the name of Western territories, South west of the Ohio. This Country, which is estimated to have 60 Thousand inhabitants, in consequence of the considerable annual immigration and of the rapid increase of population, has just been erected into a State governed by its own representatives under the new name of the State of Tennesee from the name of a very large river that runs through the whole Houlston Country, the Cumberland Country, the Country of the Cheroquis Indians and other adjacent countries. This large river falls into the Ohio 9 Miles above fort Massac. It was known by the French, who were the first to discover the Countries in the interior of North America, under the name of Cheroquis River and it is so designated on the French Maps. I met at Colonel Hays’s several inhabitants of the neighborhood who came to confer upon current matters in connection with the election of new civil and military Officers.

The 17th and 18th of February 1796 remained at Colonel Hays’ on account of bad weather.

The 19th concluded the bargain for the purchase of a Horse to convey the baggage, Collections of Plants, Birds and other Things I had brought from Illinois and recently from Kentuckey. Returned the same day to sleep at Nashville.

The 20th spent the entire day in getting my collections together and in packing them. Saw some French voyageurs who spend all their lives in the Trade with the Savages and asked the Terms on which I could obtain a Guide to go up the Missouri river. One of them named ... told me he would willingly engage for a year for the sum of 500 dollars in furs that is to say 1000 dollars in money; another asked me 2000 dollars in money.

Sunday the 21st prepared for my journey.

The 22nd had my two horses shod.

The 23rd started and after making two Miles was obliged to return on account of....

The 25th started to return to Carolina and slept 10 Miles away at the house of Colonel Mansko, a declared enemy of the French because, he said, they have killed their King. Although I had not dined I would not accept his supper believing that a Republican should not be under obligations to a fanatical partisan of Royalty. I was greatly mortified that the night and the rain should compel me to remain in his House. But I slept on my Deer skin and paid for the Maize he supplied me with to cross the Wilderness.

The 26th

Sunday 28th of February 1796 stopped ten miles from the river on account of the Rain and because the Creeks had overflowed their banks.

The 29th in the evening crossed the Creeks and slept in the Wood near the road at a place where Reeds or Canes were growing in abundance. This species of grass which grows abundantly in many places which have not been settled, is destroyed when completely eaten by Cattle; Swine also destroy it by rooting in the earth and breaking the roots. The stalk is sometimes as thick as a goose quill, but in the rich lands bordering on the rivers and between the mountains, some stalks are as much as 2 and even three inches in diameter; the height is sometimes from 25 to 30 feet. This grass is ramose but it seldom bears fruit in the territory of Kentuckey, in that of Tenesee or in that of the Carolinas. This grass begins in the southern and maritime portion of Virginia. Further South as in the Carolinas, in the Floridas and in Lower Louisiana, this grass is found in abundance.[171]

Snow fell throughout the night and on the following morning my two Horses that had been tied had their legs swelled in consequence of the cold and of the continually muddy roads over which I had traveled the previous day.

The 1st of March 1796 arrived at Fort Blount situated on the Cumberland River.[172] Snow continued to fall during a part of the day.

The 2nd remained over in order to pull young Shoots of a new Sophora[173] I had remarked in the vicinity of Fleen’s [Flinns] creek about 12 Miles from the Fort. Snow covered the ground and I was unable to get any young Shoots but Captain Williams, the young [officer] stationed in the Fort cut down some trees and I found some good seeds.

I also pulled up some roots of those trees to replant them in my garden in Carolina.

The same day I had occasion to write to Governor Blount.

The 3rd of March continued my journey; crossed Fleen’s Creek several times. Saw again the small bulbous umbelliferous plant I had remarked some days previously. Toward evening the road was less muddy.

The 4th arrived at the Mountains called Cumberland mountains.

The 5th passed several Creeks and Rivers on which is an abundance of a climbing Fern of the genus....[174]

The land through which these rivers flow is less fertile than the territory of Nashville or Cumberland settlement and two-leaved Pines are found there in abundance.

Sunday 6th of March 1796 arrived at West Point on the Clinch River.

The 7th slept at a distance of 15 Miles near the junction of the Houlston river with that called Tenesee.

The 8th arrived at Knoxville.

The 9th Dined with Governor William Blount.

The 10th took my lodgings in the house of Captain Louné near the Cumberland river.[175]

The 11th herborised on the opposite bank bordered by steep rocks covered with Saxifrage, bulbous umbellifera etc.

The 12th continued to herborise.

Sunday the 13th, Visited Captain Richard, Commandant of the garrison.

The 14th herborised; saw in bloom, Anemone hepatica; Claytonia Virginica; Sanguinaria.

Saw a new genus of Plant designated by Linnaeus Podophyllum diphyllum and discovered some years ago in Virginia while passing by Fort Chissel. This Plant is less rare in the fertile lands of Kentuckey and Cumberland. It is found in the neighborhood of Knoxville. Dr Barton[176] called it Jeffersonia in a description he gave of this Plant after seeing the flower of the Shoots I had brought back to Philadelphia in the hands of the Botanist Bartram.[177] The time when the plant flowers in the neighborhood of Knoxville is about the 10th of March.

The 15th received the Letter from Governor Blount in answer to that I had written him respecting the discovery of a new Sophora in the neighborhood of fort Blount. Started the same day and slept at a distance of 7 Miles. Paid 2 shillings 3 pence for Supper and for Maize and fodder for the Horses. Bundle of fodder 2 pence.

The 16th of March 1796 slept a mile from Iron Works at the house of Mr Rice, Lawyer, 30 Miles from Knoxville. Observed in bloom: Ulmus viscosa, Acer rubrum ♂ flower on one individual and ♀ flower on another tree.

The 17th slept near Bull’s gap 30 Miles from Iron Works.

The 18th passed by Lick creek and by Green court house 18 Miles from Bull’s gap.

The 19th passed by Johnsborough 25 Miles from Green [ville]. Several merchants are established at Johnsborough who obtain their goods from Philadelphia by land.

Sunday the 20th started from Johnsborough. Saw in passing Mr Overton of Kentuckey,[178] Major Carter of Wataga[179] at whose house I had lodged several years previously with my son, and Colonel Avery.

Sunday 20th of March 1796 saw in bloom Corylus americana, ♀ flower having the Styles or Stigmas of a purpurine color. Ulmus viscosa geminis aureis floribus 4-5-6-andris, stigmatibus purpureis. Acer rubrum ♂ flower on one individual and ♀ flower on another. Slept at Colonel Tipton’s 10 Miles from Johnsborough.

The 21st remarked that the Mountains were covered in several places with Sanguinaria, Claytonia and Erythronium with spotted leaves. These Plants were in bloom. Magnolia acuminata et auriculata; Rhododendron; Kalmia; Pinus abies canadensis, Pinus strobus; Azalea etc. etc. grow in abundance at the foot of those Mountains. Arrived at Lime Stone cove and slept at Charles Collier’s 18 Miles from Colonel Tipton’s.

The 22nd crossed Iron Mountain and arrived at night at David Becker’s, 23 Miles without seeing a house.

The 23rd started from Becker’s on Cane Creek to Rider’s 6 Miles; from Rider’s to Widow Nigh’s 7 Miles; from Nigh’s to Samuel Ramsey’s 2 Miles; from Ramsey’s to David Cox’s on Paper Creek 4 Miles and from Cox’s to Young’s 1 Mile; from Sam Ramsey’s to Davinport’s 8 Miles.[180] Total 23 Miles. Slept at Davinport’s. Remarked the Salix capreoides in flower on the banks of the streams.

The 24th visited the high Mountains opposite Davinport’s house; pulled up several hundred Shoots: Azalea lutea fulva; Anonymos azaleoides. Rhododendron minus etc.

The 25th of March 1796. Saw in flower the Corylus cornuta,[181] amentis [male] geminis quandoque solitariis squamis ciliatis; antheris apice ciliates, stylis coccineis.

This species flowers about 15 days later than the species of Corylus americana found in all the Climates of North America even in lower Carolina in the neighborhood of Charleston. The Corylus cornuta is found only on the highest mountains and in Canada. Corylus americana amentis [male] solitariis squamis externe tomentosis margine nudâ; floris [female] stylis coccineis.

The 26th herborised and pulled Shoots of shrubs and fresh Shoots to transport them to the garden of the Republic in Carolina.

Sunday 27th of March....

The 28th prepared and packed my Collection of fresh Mountain Plants.

The 29th started from Davinport’s and slept at the house of ... Young. Violet with dentate reniform leaves, villous petiole and yellow flower in full bloom on the banks of streams and very cool places.

The 30th continued my journey and by mistake took a road to the right leading to Wilkes [County]. Another Viole lutea scopus foliosus foliis hastatis in flower in cool places and also less damp places. This one is a little more tardy than the previous one.[182]

The 31st arrived at Colonel Avery’s and slept at Morganton or Burke Court house.

Friday 1st of April 1796, started from Morganton. Slept at Robertson’s, formerly Henry Waggner’s, 30 Miles from Morganton.

The 2nd of April Epigea repens in full bloom as on previous days; on several individuals all the female flowers were without rudiments of Stamens while on other individuals all the flowers were hermaphrodites. Arrived at noon at the house of Christian Reinhart near Lincoln. Remained all day to pull shoots of the Spiraea tomentosa that grow in swampy spots.

Sunday 3rd of April arrived at Bennet Smith’s 12 Miles from Lincoln; remained all day to pull shoots of a new Magnolia[183] with very large leaves, auriculate, oblong, glaucous, silky, especially the young leaves; the buds very silky; Flowers white Petals with a base of a purple color. Stamens yellow etc. Along the Creek on the bank of which this Magnolia grows I also saw the Kalmia latifolia, Viola lutea, foliis hastatis; Ulmus viscosa then in process of fructification; Halesia; Stewartia pentagyna.

The 4th started and crossed Tuck-a-segee ford on the Catawba[184] river 10 Miles from Bennet Smith’s. Took the road to the left instead of passing by Charlotte and slept 11 Miles from Catawba river.[185]

The 5th of April 1796 at a distance of 12 Miles took once more the road leading from Cambden to Charlotte.[186]

Took Shoots of Calamus aromaticus that grows in damp places in the neighborhood of Charlotte and of Lincoln. Rhus pumila. Slept near Waxsaw Creek in South Carolina about 35 Miles from Tuck-a-Segee ford.

The 6th at the house of Colonel Crawford near Waxsaw Creek: anonymous Plant with leaves quaternate, perfoliate, glabrous, entire. This same Plant grows in the Settlements of Cumberland and in Kentuckey. Frasera foetida.[187]

Passed by Hanging Rock; the distance from Waxsaw to Hanging Rock is 22 Miles. To go to Morganton or Burke Court house one should not pass by Charlotte, but take the Road to the left 3½ Miles from Hanging Rock.

About 20 Toises after leaving the fork of the two roads (one of which leads to Charlotte) one sees the Anonymous[188] shrub with a red root which has the appearance of the Calycanthus. This shrub is the one I saw in the vicinity of Morganton. Slept near Hanging Rock.

Thursday 7th of April 1796 arrived at Cambden; five or six Miles before arriving there pulled Shoots of a new Kalmia seen some years previously. The distance from Hanging Rock to Cambden is 26 Miles.

Friday 8th of April started from Cambden, passed by State’s borough 22 Miles from Cambden and slept at Manchester 30 Miles from Cambden.

The 9th my Horses strayed away during the night, having broken the Fence within which they were placed.

In the streams: Callitriche americana; fructificatio simplex, axillaris sessilis, Calyx 2-phyllus, stamen unicum; filamentum longum, latere geminis germen duplex? styli duo longitudine staminis, stigmata acuta.

Silene ... calyx 5-fidus cylindricus, corolla Petala 5 (or 5-partita usque ad basim) unguibus angustis, laciniis planis apice obtusis; Stamina 10 basi corolla inserta; Germen oblongum. Styli tres; stigmata acuta; Capsula unilocularis, semina plura numerosa, flores rosei.[189]

Started in the afternoon and slept at 15 Miles having crossed 10 Miles of sand called Santee High Hills in the space of which observed Phlox; Silene ...; Dianthus ... in flower; Lupinus perennis et pilosus in flower.

Sunday 10th of April 1796 arrived at the Santee River at the place called Manigault ferry; before arriving there observed Verbena (aubletia?) and on the banks of the Santee, arbor Anonymous whose fruit (muricatis) covered with soft points, was almost ripe.[190] Manigault ferry is 28 Miles from Manchester.

Two miles further on one takes the road to the right called Gaillard road which is shorter than the ordinary road but muddy in winter. Slept at the house of the Widow Stuard 18 Miles from Manigault ferry. Tavern dirty and without a supply of fodder for Horses.

The 11th started very early; at a distance of 5 Miles remarked Lupinus perennis and Lupinus pilosus in flower. Distance from Charleston 40 to 43 Miles. Arrived at the garden of the Republic 37 Miles from the Widow Stuard’s that is to say 47 Miles from Charleston.