As soon as our loads and a European mail—the last which we should see for some time to come—had arrived from Kikwit, we engaged a number of Babunda porters and started off to the Kasai Company’s factory of Dumba upon the banks of the Lubue, a journey which we accomplished in two long stages. Upon the morning of the second day we crossed the Lubue, and then turned northwards, following its right bank to the factory. The river where we crossed it is only about thirty yards wide, and is broken up into rapids by great masses of rock in its bed, over which a rough bridge of poles has been erected. When we reached the valley of the Lubue we left the high plateau which exists between that river and the Kwilu and entered a very hilly country. At Dumba the Lubue is about forty yards in width, and there is no strip of forest upon its banks. The hills rise sheer from the water’s edge to a height of three or four hundred feet above the river, and behind them the steep undulations attain a height of fully twelve hundred feet above the stream. The country here consists of grass land studded with large numbers of those stunted trees which around Alela are conspicuous by their absence. Between Dumba and the point where the Lubue falls into the Kasai the river is unbroken by rapids, so that a canoe or iron whale boat can ply between Dumba and the factory called Lubue upon the Kasai, but the stream is so strong that it takes a well-manned boat eight days to reach Dumba from the main river, and the journey is by no means a pleasant one, for the Badinga, who inhabit the country near to the Kasai, are very hostile to the white man, and will not sell any food to a traveller ascending or descending the Lubue; in addition to this there is always quite a possibility that they might attack him. The factory of Dumba lies upon the bank of the river closely surrounded by hills, and owing to this enclosed situation the heat there is far more oppressive than upon the wind-swept uplands of Alela, and although the Kasai Company have been installed there only four years, two little crosses in a neatly kept space just outside the factory indicate that the place is unhealthy for the white man. But excepting for the climate the post of Dumba appeared to us to be just what a Congolese factory should be; this is owing to the untiring energy of the agent who was in charge of it at the time of our visit. Monsieur Bombeecke is one of those happily constituted people who can make himself comfortable and contented under any circumstances, and he has rendered Dumba quite the neatest and most comfortable factory that we visited. He always has one or two European agents living with him. One of these, who had just left previous to our arrival, had been by trade a carpenter, and Monsieur Bombeecke had caused him to instruct several natives in this craft, with the result that in the workshop which he has built all manner of useful articles are manufactured. Monsieur Bombeecke and his native carpenter had turned out a very neat and ingenious wooden letter-press to replace the iron one belonging to the Company, which had been broken, and the chairs, tables, and other furniture at Dumba, although of course of a somewhat rough and ready nature, were of a far better quality than one would expect in so remote a district, and the woodwork of his bungalow was all of exceptional solidity and neatness; the doors closed properly, the sashes fitted the windows, and there was a strong and well made flight of steps leading from the ground to the door.

But perhaps Dumba is most remarkable for its vegetable gardens. Monsieur Bombeecke thoroughly understands the cultivation of vegetables, and he had established two gardens at his factory, one for use in the dry season and the other during the rains, with the result that all the year round he has so abundant a supply of vegetables that he can send most welcome presents of them to both his neighbours at Alela and Bienge. Upon arriving in Africa this enterprising trader had commenced the study of cookery with the aid of a cookery book, and as a result he had been able to teach his cook to serve up a dinner which would do credit to any small country hotel with nothing but the plain stores which the Company issues to its agents to compose it. Monsieur Bombeecke rightly believes that in order to maintain one’s strength in Central Africa it is absolutely necessary to study as much as possible one’s personal comfort, and his own robust condition testifies to the value of his methods. But it was not only by the creature comforts of good living that our stay at Dumba was rendered enjoyable, for we now began to learn something more of the Bakongo people, and our hope of being able to enter their territory began to rise by leaps and bounds, for we discovered that Monsieur Bombeecke, whose popularity among the natives surrounding his factory is very great, had come into friendly contact with one or two outlying Bakongo villages. From him we learned that although the main portion of the Bakongo tribe resides in the unexplored country to the east of the Loange River, there are a certain number of their villages upon its left or western shore, dotted about among settlements of the Bapende, with which latter people Monsieur Bombeecke was on very friendly terms. He suggested to us that he should accompany us to one of these Bapende villages near the Loange whose chief he knew to be friendly with the Bakongo, and that having associated ourselves with this chief we should endeavour to obtain through him an introduction to the Bakongo. As, thanks to Sam, the only member of our party who had been with us at Pana, we enjoyed a tremendous reputation as hunters (I discovered that I myself had shot twenty buffaloes in a week!), we decided to attempt to enter the unknown country in the capacity of sportsmen, and to give out that we would be willing to shoot buffaloes or any other game and supply the villages with meat if the natives would allow us to stay with them and to slowly make our way eastwards towards the Kasai. We knew that we should be misunderstood and almost certainly arouse suspicion if we told the Bakongo, as we had told the people of the Mushenge, that we had come among them in order to learn something of their ways; we therefore considered it wiser to keep the real object of our coming a secret. We could hardly expect to enter the unknown country as traders, for the Bakongo have never yet traded with the white man; missionaries have never even been heard of by the natives of this district, so that we could not appear to pose as such; and indeed it seemed probable that the capacity of hunters was the only one in which we could reasonably hope to effect an entry into the Bakongo country. Monsieur Bombeecke informed us that although he knew next to nothing about the Bakongo he believed there existed somewhere on the eastern side of the Loange one great paramount chief of the whole tribe, whose name he had heard was Goman Vula, a piece of information which seemed to coincide with what we had heard at the Mushenge of a big chief among the Bashilele people. We were confident that if once we could visit this ruler of the Bakongo and establish anything like friendly relations with him we should be able to make a real study of his tribe, so to find and make the acquaintance of this man became the object of the early part of our journey to the Kasai. But although we had now learned that we could easily get into touch with natives who were friends and neighbours of the Bakongo, we fully expected to have to spend many weeks in hunting near the Loange River before we could get to know the Bakongo sufficiently well for them to allow us to cross the stream and enter the unknown land.

In the immediate neighbourhood of Dumba there are settlements of both the Bapende and Babunda peoples, so that the days we spent at the factory were by no means idle, for large numbers of both tribes came to see us, and upon one occasion the Bapende held a dance in our honour in which nearly three hundred people took part. The Babunda were not quite so reticent as those who dwelt around Alela, and Torday was able to amplify his notes upon that tribe, while I occupied a good deal of my time in taking and developing photographs of various native types. The Bapende are much given to the use of the tukula dye, which is so common among the Bushongo. They wear their hair in little tassels resembling a mop on the tops of their heads, and it is by no means uncommon to find those whose hair is not of sufficient length to admit of its being dressed in this fashion wearing wigs. The Bapende ladies adorn their legs with such a weight of brass in the shape of anklets, sometimes as many as eight on each leg, the total weight of which would be about 16 lbs., that walking is extremely difficult, and they are often to be seen standing upon one leg and supporting their other foot in their hand, or pausing and kneeling down or sitting to rest even during quite a short walk. The most ornamental objects which the Bapende manufacture are small models of human faces carved out of ivory and worn suspended from a string around the neck. These little masks are purchased from the medicine-man, and are considered as infallible charms against various diseases. Our way from Dumba to the Loange lay entirely through Bapende territory. The day before we set out on our journey all our Bambala porters came to us in a body and inquired if it was really true that we still intended to enter the country of the Bakongo. Upon Torday replying in the affirmative, our men said that the Baluba employés of the factory had told them that we should all most certainly be massacred if we made the attempt, and they requested us to allow them to return to their homes. Torday immediately acceded to their request, and told them to return to him at midday to receive their wages and their rations for the journey. We were now in a most awkward predicament, for we did not know the local Bapende sufficiently well to be able to induce them to accompany us upon the journey which they could not but regard as highly dangerous, and we certainly could not hope to succeed in reaching the Kasai if we were accompanied by any of the low-class Baluba from the factory, even if these cowardly people could have been persuaded to go with us. Our outlook, therefore, was not very bright. Long before midday, however, our Bambala returned and inquired whether, if they returned to their homes, we should persist in going on towards the Kasai. Torday assured them that we should. “Then of course we will go with you,” said the Bambala, and from that moment not one of our men showed the slightest desire to turn back. When we left Dumba we marched over a ridge, about 1000 feet above the level of the river, which ran north and south beside the banks of the Lubue, forming a barrier between that river and the valley of the Luana, a stream some fifty yards in width which flows parallel to the Lubue midway to the Loange and falls into the Lubue a short distance above the confluence with that river to the Kasai. The Luana flows through a valley about eight miles wide, and to the east of this valley there lies another high ridge separating the basin of the Luana from that of the Loange. A greater portion of this country consists of grass land, but there is a good deal of wood around the Luana. Monsieur Bombeecke, as he had promised, accompanied us upon our journey, and, marching by easy stages, we reached upon the sixth day Kangala, the village of the Bapende chief who we hoped would introduce us to the Bakongo. The day before reaching Kangala we caught our first glimpse of a Bakongo village. This lay in a small clearing in the woods, and was surrounded by a stout stockade consisting of posts about eight or nine feet high driven firmly into the ground. Monsieur Bombeecke had passed by this village before, but had never been invited to enter it, and, knowing the hostility of the Bakongo to the white man, he had never risked arousing their indignation by attempting to pass the narrow entrance to the village without a special invitation from the chief. It had been his custom, however, to halt for a few minutes under a shed situated outside the walls, and there have a friendly chat with such of the natives as would come and talk to him. Upon our arrival a good number of the villagers came out to see us, and the chief offered us some palm wine in quaintly-carved black wooden cups, in the manufacture of which the Bakongo are remarkably skilful. Torday noticed at once a similarity in the patterns with which these cups were ornamented and those which we had found among the Bushongo, another piece of evidence to support his theory that these two peoples are nearly related. We offered a good price for one or two of the cups, and in a few minutes had succeeded in purchasing several. We then continued our march. In every village we passed through we took all the opportunities we could of purchasing curios, among which we secured specimens of the curious wooden masks and palm cloth dresses in which the Bapende boys array themselves for the ceremony of initiation when they enter man’s estate. During this ceremony, which lasts several days, the lads have to spend all their time in the forest or in the bush, and are obliged to keep out of sight of other people. The purchase of one of the masks might easily have led us into trouble, for one of our boys who belonged to another tribe and was quite unversed in Bapende customs, carried the thing about the villages exposed to the public gaze, a proceeding which caused a good deal of indignation on the part of the Bapende, who firmly believe that if a woman sets eyes on one of these masks she will die. Luckily no women happened to be passing at the time, so we were soon able to sooth the ruffled feelings of the natives.

The village of Kangala, whose chief was to put us in communication with the Bakongo, lies in open country upon the ridge which forms the western or left-hand side of the Loange River. Except that the country around it consists of grass land, the place is somewhat suggestive of a Saharan oasis. The huts are dotted about in a veritable forest of palm-trees, and few if any other kind of trees are to be found within the village. Everywhere you go you walk in the shade of the palms, and the little square grass-thatched houses look extremely pretty in so picturesque an environment. The place is a large one, and crowds of natives can be seen at all hours of the day manufacturing cloth at looms placed under the trees, making baskets, or pounding cassava into flour. The chief, Dilonda, had erected quite a commodious hut for the use of Monsieur Bombeecke, whom he evidently held in very high esteem, and it was outside this hut, accompanied by one or two chiefs of lesser importance, that we found Dilonda waiting for us upon our arrival in the village. He wore around his neck a great number of charms, such as the little ivory masks to which I have alluded, similar masks made in metal, leopards’ teeth, whistles, and other objects. He was a big and powerfully-built man, save that one of his legs appeared to be shrivelled, so that he was obliged to walk with the aid of a stick. Dilonda received us well, Monsieur Bombeecke’s introduction evidently being a sufficient guarantee as to our respectability, and after an interchange of presents (chickens and a goat on his side, trade cloth, &c., upon ours), we proceeded to impress the crowd which was assembled by playing a few pieces upon the phonograph. This, as usual, astonished and delighted the audience, and we could see that the people were quite prepared to regard us as something in the way of wizards. Monsieur Bombeecke informed Dilonda that we were mighty hunters on our way home, that in order to reach our country it was necessary for us to proceed across the territory of the Bakongo and Bashilele to the upper waters of the Kasai, and that on our way we were ready to shoot buffaloes, elephants, hippopotami—in short, any kind of animal, and give the meat to the natives whose villages we passed through. He also explained that we wished to purchase all manner of objects such as the natives had never previously had an opportunity of selling, and that we had not come in search of rubber, a commodity with which he well knew the Bakongo would have nothing to do. He then asked Dilonda if he knew anything of the country around the Loange. We were considerably surprised when the chief clearly showed us that he knew how the Kasai took a turn to the westward at its confluence with the Sankuru, for it is very rare indeed to find a native who knows anything of the geography of a district so far from his own village. Finding Dilonda very agreeable we very soon came to the point, and asked him directly whether he would be prepared, if we gave him a substantial present, to establish friendly relations between us and the Bakongo. We said that we had heard that there was a place upon the Loange some few days’ march to the northward where buffaloes abounded, and we inquired if he would be willing to accompany us there and to help us to induce the Bakongo to allow us to hunt in their country.

Now Dilonda was a greedy person, and I am sure that the offer of a substantial present would lead him to attempt almost anything, but at the same time Monsieur Bombeecke told us that we could rely upon the man, and that if he consented to help us we could be assured that he would use his best endeavours to do so. Dilonda at once showed himself much against our scheme of going to the north. He told us that although the Bakongo in his own immediate neighbourhood were sufficiently hostile to the European to desire to have nothing whatever to do with him, those further to the north were far more hostile still, and, although it was just possible he might in time be able to induce them to receive us, it was quite likely that we should be attacked if we entered their territory. He himself and his tribe did not desire to enter into any quarrel with the Bashongo, of whom, I think, they stand in considerable awe, and we had insufficient men with us to be able to defend ourselves successfully in the event of trouble breaking out. He therefore considered that our best plan would be to remain for a day or two in his village while he proceeded to a small Bakongo settlement called Insashi, which lay upon the left bank of the Loange only a few miles from Kangala. He explained to us that the chief of this village was his personal friend, and he had no doubt that we would be peacefully received there. We therefore decided to take his advice and to remain for a few days at Kangala. During this time we showed Dilonda our clockwork elephant, and nothing would satisfy him but that we should present him with one if he could establish friendly relations with the Bakongo. The less inclined we were to part with the elephant the more anxious was he to possess it, and after a time we became certain that there was very little that he would not do for us in order to obtain so powerful a fetish. We knew, however, sufficient of the negro not to part with the coveted toy before Dilonda had fully earned it, so we agreed with him that should we succeed in reaching the Kasai we should send the elephant to Monsieur Bombeecke, who undertook to give it to Dilonda. In the meantime, as an earnest of our good intentions, we gave him a substantial present of iron and trade cloth. Dilonda told us that the two commodities which would prove the most saleable in the country beyond the Loange were machettes and bars of iron. Now those two commodities are about the most awkward to carry of any of the trade goods used in the Kasai. The machettes are not so bad as the iron, for a considerable number of these knives can be made up into a load to be carried on a pole by two men, but the square or round bars of iron, cut into lengths of about one foot each, are extremely heavy, and at the rate at which they are sold it practically means that one has to employ one man to carry every eight shillings’ worth of this “money” that one takes. With our very small number of porters the difficulty presented by this was a considerable one, for it meant that in the unknown country our own men would have to undertake each stage of the journey at least twice until the iron was used up, for even if we could persuade the Bakongo to carry our loads for us, we should certainly not be able to trust them with a commodity which they covet so strongly. From Kangala we sent a small caravan back to Dumba, where we purchased from Monsieur Bombeecke’s assistant a further supply of iron and knives. As we stood upon the high ground outside Dilonda’s village we could look across the valley of the Loange, which is here about seven or eight miles wide, and catch a glimpse of the unknown country which lay before us. We had heard from other white men that the Bakongo and Bashilele are cannibals of the most terrible character inhabiting a densely wooded country, and yet as we gazed across the river, we could see to the eastwards, beyond a comparatively narrow strip of forest which borders the Loange, great rolling grassy downs on which scarcely a tree was visible. Evidently the description of the country which had been given to us was completely false, and we asked ourselves why should not the ferocity of the inhabitants also have been much exaggerated? We thought that while we were at Kangala it would be just as well to shoot a little game, if any existed, in order to show the natives that we really were hunters, and to give them some idea of the power of our sporting rifles, but although there were a few buffaloes in the neighbourhood, we were not able to obtain a shot at them owing to the anxiety on the part of the Bapende to obtain a present for discovering where the animals were feeding.

Upon one occasion two or three of Dilonda’s people, who had gone out to look for game, came upon some buffaloes lying down in a cassava field, but the men made such a noise in their dispute as to who should go and inform us that the animals were there, and so obtain a present, that the beasts were frightened and took to the forest in the direction of a Bakongo village, whither it was impossible for us to follow them, for here, as in most parts of Central Africa, each village has its own hunting ground, and any attempt at poaching might easily lead to war. Dilonda himself caused us quite a lot of amusement. Although he considered himself no small personage, and was evidently the greatest of all the Bapende chiefs in the neighbourhood, it used to delight him to sit upon a little stool beside our table and beg for spoonfuls of mustard. For a time we could not understand his craving for this delicacy, but Monsieur Bombeecke, who knew him well, explained to us that he ate the stuff solely with the object of causing a thirst, for Dilonda was much addicted to palm wine. Not only was he fond of the mustard, but he was extremely anxious to possess the little earthenware pot that contained it. It appears that he was in the habit of boasting to his cronies of the enormous number of cups of palm wine which he could consume at a sitting, and he thought that if he drank the beverage out of so small a vessel as a mustard-pot the number of drinks he could get through would be enormously increased. No doubt he would not have allowed his boon companions to know the trick he was playing upon them by using this small cup, and I tremble to think of the results which might ensue if his friends, using the ordinary sized wooden cup which would contain about three-quarters of a pint, should attempt to imbibe a greater number of drinks than Dilonda. Dilonda was for ever attempting to get something out of us, and with this object he was always pointing out all the services he was going to render us, and the accuracy of the information which he imparted to us. He usually ended up every sentence with the remark, “O, he is no liar is Dilonda.” But although he was quite ready to accept anything that we offered him, Dilonda was by no means generous in the presents he offered to us. He possessed a few of the black and white sheep which are bred by the Badjok near the Portuguese frontier. The Badjok frequently sent caravans up into this district and into the country between the Loange and the Kasai in search of rubber and ivory; in fact we had high hopes of meeting with a caravan of these people, who are friendly to the European, during the course of our journey eastwards, for we believed it was quite possible they might help us to reach our destination. Dilonda had doubtless purchased his sheep from these traders, but he kept them more as an ornament to his village than as animals to be killed and eaten. We several times cast favourable glances upon these animals. With the exception of a few meals at Dima, four months before, we had not tasted mutton since the Christmas of 1907, and I think that life in Central Africa tends to make one greedy, particularly if one is living in districts where game is so scarce that one has little or no break in the monotony of meals off skinny chickens and insipid goats’ meat. We therefore hoped that Dilonda, in exchange for the numerous presents that we made him, might feel himself bound to offer us a sheep. One day when we made some remark about his flock, the crafty old chief called us aside and said, “I think your boys are thieves. When I saw you looking at the sheep, and I remembered that I had only given you one small goat, shame seized me, and I said to myself, ‘Dilonda, give the white man one of your sheep’; so I called your boys and gave them a fine fat animal and told them to take it to you, but I do not think you have received it. Your boys must have stolen it and eaten it themselves.” We did not believe this story, of course, but we made inquiries and discovered that no sheep had ever been handed over to our servants. When we told Dilonda of this the old ruffian merely laughed, amused rather than annoyed that his falsehood had been discovered and his meanness found out. In a few days old Dilonda informed us that the Bakongo of Insashi would be willing to allow us to visit their village, and we accordingly started out, accompanied by Monsieur Bombeecke, Dilonda, and a couple of lesser chiefs, to cover the five or six miles in the valley of the Loange between Kangala and Insashi. As we drew near to the Bakongo village, the Bapende warned us to tell our men to make as little noise as possible so that the Bakongo might not at the last moment take fright at our approach and either desert their village or attack us. As we stepped out of the woods into the clearing in which Insashi stood, we fully expected to find a crowd of curious, if not hostile people waiting to look at us. To our surprise, however, the few people whom we saw outside the stockade were all engaged upon their ordinary daily occupations, such as weaving or wood-carving, and paid little or no attention to us as we walked to the shed outside the stockade, which the Bapende informed us had been placed at our disposal. As we were seated beneath the shade of this structure, the Bakongo chief came to welcome us. Torday, through the medium of a Bapende interpreter, explained to this man the object of our visit, laying stress upon the fact that we only required to go to the Kasai and to spend our time in hunting upon the journey. He gave the chief a very substantial present, and asked him if he would allow his people to ferry us across the river in their canoes. We were a little surprised to learn that there were no canoes upon the left bank of the river. This is a precaution against invasion, for the Loange is fully half a mile in width, and its current is so strong as to preclude the possibility of an enemy crossing it by swimming; the Bakongo, therefore, by keeping their canoes on the right, or eastern shore, cause the river to become an insurmountable barrier to any would-be invader. Should the Bakongo on the left bank desire to visit their countrymen they have to go down to the water’s edge and shout until a canoe is sent to them from a village which lies just opposite on the eastern shore. The chief of Insashi, well pleased with his present, informed us that he and Dilonda would ask the people of the further bank to ferry them over on the morrow, and that they would then use their best endeavours to persuade them to send sufficient canoes to carry us and our loads. While we were talking to the chief a considerable number of natives, including many women, crowded round to look at us, and we purchased several articles from them, always paying very high prices with the object of inducing them to bring us other things for sale. In the evening Torday and I thought that it would be as well to shoot a few monkeys in the forest close at hand in order that we might present their carcases to the chief as food. We therefore went out and bagged a colobus and one or two cercopithecus monkeys, with which the chief of Insashi was greatly pleased. But on the morrow we repented bitterly of having shot them, for the report of the 12-bore and the crack of the Mannlicher had been heard across the river, and the chief of Insashi, when he returned the following evening from his trip to the other bank, informed us that the Bakongo there had come to the conclusion that we were attacking Insashi, and that he had had the greatest difficulty in persuading them to send canoes for us. At last, however, attracted by hearing of the presents we had given to the chief of Insashi, they had agreed to do so, but he, the chief, told us that we must not be surprised if at the last moment they changed their minds. We had not been many hours in Insashi before we were invited to pass through the entrance of the stockade and inspect the interior of the village. The houses there resembled those of the Bushongo, and, each having its own little courtyard, they reminded us of the huts of the Mushenge. There were certain other evidences as well, in the character of the weapons used and the various utensils that we saw about the place, that the Bakongo were in reality related to the subjects of the Nyimi. In the centre of the village there was an open space where meetings and dances are held, the huts being built around this in close proximity to the stockade. Between the buildings and the wall, however, there was a passage admitting of the defenders hurrying to and fro in case the village was attacked. The stockade was strongly built of palm-leaf stems, attaining a height of about ten feet. These stems are placed so close together as to form a very efficient defence against an enemy armed only with bows and arrows or spears, and any attempt to rush these defences across the open space which had been cleared around them without first breeching the stockade could only result in very heavy loss to the attacking side if the garrison put up a determined defence. A modern rifle bullet would, of course, pass through the stockade as through so much paper, but it would be extremely difficult to observe the position of the defenders through the fence so as to be able to inflict any great loss upon them. The gates in the stockade, of which there are several, are so small as to admit of only one person entering at a time.

For a space of about fifty yards all round the defences, outside the village, the ground was cleared, and here stood a number of granaries in which the crops are stored. These granaries are built as neatly as the dwelling-houses, and stand upon piles in order to keep away mice and other vermin. It struck us as remarkable that the supply of food should be kept outside the village, but they are situated well within arrow-range of the defences, and I think that the reason for building them apart from the dwelling-houses must be to prevent the food-stuffs from attracting a large amount of vermin into the village. Also outside the walls we found a number of sheds, used as shelters from the sun, in which the Bakongo weave their cloth and pass their time in smoking and discussing the local gossip, as do the natives of Misumba. We soon fell to discussing with the chief of Insashi the route we should have to follow in order to reach the Kasai. We discovered that he knew very little about it, he never having been so far as the great river himself, but we did learn from him that, as Monsieur Bombeecke had told us, there is in reality one great chief of all the Bakongo people. He would say very little about this great man, and even went so far as to state that he did not know where his village lay, but by putting together scraps of information we gathered that it must be situated nearer to the Loange than to the Kasai, somewhere to the north-east of the point where we should cross the former river. We told the chief of Insashi that we would handsomely reward any one who would put us into communication with the great chief, and that we had some valuable presents for that important personage if he would deign to receive us. The chief of Insashi promised us that he would ask his compatriots to help us in this respect, but the name Goman Vula was always mentioned with bated breath, and we could clearly see that it would be difficult to obtain access to his village or, if we failed in this, any precise information about him or his court. During the couple of days that we spent at Insashi we employed our followers in the construction of a rough bridge over the extremely swampy ground which lies in the forest between the village and the river bank. Nobody in the least objected to our doing this, and we found ourselves free to do practically what we liked and to wander about the village without causing any annoyance to anybody; and as the natives upon the eastern shore had promised to fetch us in their canoes, we began to think that our journey to the Kasai would after all present few difficulties, and I remember that we wrote very cheerful letters home, to be taken back to Dumba by Monsieur Bombeecke when he returned after seeing us across the Loange. On the 21st of May we bade adieu to this gentleman, whose popularity with the natives had contributed so much to the cordiality of the reception we had met with among the Bapende, and also to our introduction to the Bakongo, and conveyed all our loads from the village to the waterside. Some canoes appeared under the bushes of the farther shore and approached us, but the sight of so many packages led the boatmen to believe that our party must be a very much larger one than it had been represented to be, and they returned to their own side of the river in doubt as to our peaceful intentions. The chief of Insashi thereupon commenced to shout for them to return. As the Loange is, at this point, fully eight hundred yards wide, and as it took quite two hours continuous shouting to produce any signs of life on the opposite bank, the chief’s voice must have come in for a pretty considerable strain, but eventually three canoes of moderate size appeared, and the work of embarking our baggage was begun. Torday crossed in the first canoe. He was accompanied by a couple of the Bambala, who habitually acted as gun-bearers to us when out shooting, but he took no arms with him of any kind, realising that the Bakongo were still highly suspicious of us, and that the sight of arms might provoke an attack or cause the boatmen to maroon him upon a sandbank in mid-stream, from which escape would be quite impossible unless the natives could be persuaded to return for him with a canoe. As I have said, the Loange at this point is about eight hundred yards wide. For the greater part of this distance the water is extremely shallow, so shallow indeed that paddles are never employed by the boatmen, the canoes being propelled by means of poles. There is, however, one portion of the river—about fifty yards in width—where the water is considerably deeper, and here the stream is so rapid that a canoe upon entering it from the more sluggish water is swept downwards with most alarming rapidity. For this reason any attempt to cross the Loange by means of swimming could only end in disaster, and as the width of the river rendered any kind of bridge impossible, we were entirely dependent upon the goodwill of the Bakongo boatmen. I watched Torday’s canoe disappear between the bushes upon the eastern shore with my field-glasses, and I must confess that the minutes seemed like hours before I saw the canoe reappear and commence to cross the stream with the evident intention of ferrying over the remainder of our loads. The boatmen brought me a note from Torday informing me that everything had gone well and that all the loads which accompanied him had safely arrived in the forest on the far shore. This news came as a considerable relief to my feelings, for had any attempt been made to attack him we should have been quite unable to render any assistance. The work of transporting all our goods across the river occupied several hours, but after a short time one of the canoes brought me over a second note from Torday saying that he had encountered two or three Bakongo women who had come down to fetch water, and that these had readily consented to carry some of our packages up to the village for a liberal wage, to be paid in salt. This was a highly satisfactory commencement to our journey, and when I myself came over the river with the last loads at about 5 P.M., I was delighted and not a little surprised to find that these worthy ladies had not only carried up the loads given to them, but had returned for more and brought other people with them, so that all our baggage had been removed to the village. We ourselves followed just as the sun was going down. The village in which we spent the night is called Insashi, like its neighbour on the left bank of the river; it lies on the edge of the forest belt at a distance of about a mile and a half from the water. It is quite a small place, and although, like all Bakongo villages, it is surrounded by a stockade, its defences were in a tumble-down condition, and except that it is the home of the boatmen who keep up communication with the outlying villages of the Bakongo on the western side of the river, the place appears to be of very little importance. We were well received by the aged chief. This man was an acquaintance of Dilonda, and evidently had accepted his statements as regards the inoffensive nature of our visit, for not only did he produce the present of chickens which is usually offered to the white man upon his arrival in a Congo village, but he assured us that his people would be willing to convey our belongings to another village next day, and discussed quite freely with us the easiest route to the Kasai.

We found that here, as in the village upon the western shore, the natives in reality knew very little about their country beyond the radius of a few miles from their homes; in fact there was not one man in the whole village who had ever been as far as the Kasai. Here, too, the people spoke of Goman Vula as little as they could, and it was very clear to us that we should experience great difficulty in making acquaintance with this great chief.

The Loange River, however, lay behind us, and we had been so far very well received by the Bakongo, so that we really began to think that, even if we could not find Goman Vula, our journey across the unknown tract was likely to present fewer difficulties and dangers than we had expected. After spending one night at this second village of Insashi we proceeded about five or six miles in a south-south-easterly direction to Bwabwa, the people of Insashi eagerly offering their services as porters for the liberal wage of iron and knives which we agreed to pay them. As the whole of the country between the Loange and the Kasai was represented by a blank upon even the best maps of the Congo State, we had determined to do our best to make some sort of a rough survey of our route with the aid of a prismatic compass, and this work, commenced at Dumba, we now carried on as carefully as we possibly could. As we were unable to retrace our steps over any portion of the journey, we had to content ourselves with taking such bearings as we could while on the march from village to village. The map therefore which has resulted from our survey is by no means so accurate or so complete as it would have been had we been able to devote some days to going out from each village to map the country round. It serves to show our route, however, and it is the best we could do under the circumstances, which were sometimes very trying.

The village of Bwabwa is a new one, and it lies in open country on the edge of the forest belt which borders the Loange River. As we approached the village we noticed two peculiar fetishes or charms. The first of these consisted in a miniature harpoon, a model of those used for trapping elephants and hippopotami, suspended over the path close to the entrance to the village. The second one consisted of a high post placed in the centre of the village, from the top of which hung creepers extended to each of the four corners of the stockade. This latter charm, I believe, was considered particularly efficacious against lightning. Dilonda accompanied us to Bwabwa, with the chief of which village he was very friendly, and upon his recommendation the natives received us well. We pitched our camp in the cleared ground outside the stockade and settled down to make ourselves agreeable. Upon hearing that we were hunters, the Bakongo at once suggested that we should on the morrow accompany them to the river and endeavour to shoot some of the buffalo which come down in the early morning to drink. Next day, therefore, we started before daybreak together with two or three of our Bambala and a few of the Bakongo, and having been ferried in a couple of very small canoes across the Loange, we spent several hours in a search for game. Although we were not successful in obtaining a shot, we found fresh tracks of buffalo, elephant, hippopotami, bush-buck, and sitatunga in large quantities, so that this part of the Loange River must be considerably richer in game than most of the districts we passed through. We visited several grassy islands near to the western shore, and while doing so we came to the conclusion that we had been rather foolish in allowing the Bakongo to take us there, for should they have suddenly taken into their heads to get rid of us, nothing would have been easier than for them to depart in their canoes and thus maroon us upon the islands, from which, owing to the strength of the stream, escape would have been quite impossible. When we returned in safety to Bwabwa, therefore, we determined never again to place ourselves so completely at the mercy of a people who, although they were friendly at present, we certainly did not know sufficiently well to trust. Dilonda stayed a couple of nights at Bwabwa and then returned to his home across the river. He had certainly been most useful to us, for without his introduction I have no doubt that it would have taken many weeks for us to become friendly with the Bakongo upon either bank of the Loange, and in addition to this he had evidently talked a good deal about our clockwork elephant, for the natives of Bwabwa were very anxious to see it. We displayed it once to the chief, but we were very careful not to allow it to become “cheap” by showing it to any passing native who might express a desire to look at it. We first noticed at Bwabwa rather a curious thing about the Bakongo methods of hunting. Like the Bushongo they employ a number of dogs with rattles strapped around them to drive small game into nets in the forest, but among the Bakongo the dogs, although belonging to various individuals, are all under the care of one man who occupies a position somewhat similar to that of the “kennel-huntsman” of an English fox-hound pack, and he daily feeds all the dogs used for hunting. Most of the Bakongo carry little wooden whistles suspended from a string around the neck, but the dogs appear to easily distinguish the note of the kennel-man’s whistle, for they come round him as soon as he sounds it to partake of the cassava dough with which he feeds them. As a rule the dogs of the Bakongo appear to be very well kept.

In discussing our route with the people of Bwabwa it appeared that our next stage would be to a village named Bishwambura which lay about six miles to the eastwards, but the people of Bwabwa declined to carry our loads there, and insisted upon taking us to a small hamlet called Bwao, situated about three miles to the north. We were not in a position to insist upon going where we liked, so we had to be content with moving on to this place, although by going there we were moving very little, if any, further from the Loange than we were at present, and consequently were making practically no progress towards the Kasai, and were having to pay very high wages to the natives for carrying our loads these short and useless stages. From Bwao, however, we did manage to get on to Bompe, about four miles to the eastwards, having been warned by the people of Bwao to be very careful how we treated the Bakongo of Bompe, for we were assured that the slightest carelessness on our part would probably lead to our being attacked.

We were, however, received in a most friendly spirit, our iron and knives evidently being most welcome to the natives. After the village of Bompe matters became more complicated, for there began to arise a difficulty as to the form which the payment of the Bakongo who carried for us should take. Living as they do exactly the same lives which the natives all over Africa used to live before the white man invaded the Dark Continent, the Bakongo have no real need for any article imported from Europe, with the exception of knives or the iron bars from which their smiths can forge arrow heads, and therefore every porter required to be paid either with a knife or a 4 lb. bar of iron for carrying a load even the shortest of stages. It will be understood, therefore, that our expenses were very heavy and that our limited stock of knives and iron should begin to dwindle to small proportions, it being quite impossible, now that the Loange lay behind us, to send a caravan back to Dumba for a further supply. Even at first when we were able to pay every one in the commodity he or she required, the work of getting the loads transported was no light task. As a rule the women were more eager to carry than the men; in fact I have often given a load to a stalwart Bakongo warrior only to see him transfer it immediately afterwards to the shoulders of his wife. But the Bakongo ladies were very trying to deal with when we distributed the packages in the morning preparatory to starting from a village; they all preferred a small heavy load to a bulky light one, and whenever a package could be divided between several people the shrewd matrons would call in the services of all their children, often arriving at their destination with four or five individuals carrying portions of one load, and every one of these people expected to be paid the wage agreed upon for a full burden. I have known very small children to accompany us carrying a discarded empty bottle and demand payment at the end of the stage. Of course it was essential for us to keep our tempers and to humour the people as much as possible, otherwise we should doubtless have been unable to move at all, but I can assure my readers that it is by no means easy to remain unruffled when endeavouring to persuade a Bakongo lady to carry a certain package when she has determined in her own mind to carry another one.

One’s most pleasant manner and most inviting smile (a sort of “do-take-this-one-it’s-quite-light-really” grin) are quite thrown away on the Bakongo women. However, we tried our best to be agreeable, and the number of dirty infants whom we daily chucked under the chin with a view to ultimately securing their fond mothers’ services as porters must have been very considerable. The fact that we could at first hardly speak a word of the local language did not make matters much easier, and altogether we were having a by no means enjoyable time during the early part of our journey from the Loange to the Kasai. The people of Bompe, in their anxiety to obtain iron, expressed their willingness to carry our loads on to Bishwambura; and realising that the natives would, in all probability, divide their loads up into small portions in the hope of obtaining full payment for each, Torday decided to go on to Bishwambura in advance, with most of our Bambala porters carrying the iron and knives, there to await the arrival of our other baggage, while I was to remain at Bompe to superintend the departure of the loads, and to give to each porter who presented himself for service a slip of paper bearing my initials; upon handing this to Torday at Bishwambura he would receive the wage agreed upon. We thought that in this way we should be able to prevent the endless splitting up of loads, but it only served to give the Bakongo an opportunity of displaying a cunning that I should never have imagined that they possessed. It so happened that a green canvas sack, which contained a number of odds and ends left over from other packages, was torn at the corner, revealing inside a broken packet of Reckitt’s blue (a dye which was very popular with the natives for ornamenting their faces). Now although they had never seen writing in any form before our arrival, the Bakongo conceived the idea of attempting to manufacture the vouchers for payment which I distributed to the porters. They picked up scraps of paper which had been left lying about our camping ground, and with the aid of a stick and Reckitt’s blue they made marks upon them, fondly imagining that these marks would deceive Torday into paying them for carrying loads which existed really only in their imagination. Of course the trick was obvious at once, but Torday’s refusal to pay for the forgeries caused the natives to mistrust the real vouchers which I had given them, with the result that many of them threw down their loads by the wayside and declined to carry them to Bishwambura. Torday sent back the Bambala porters to assist me to bring on the remainder of the baggage, and wrote me a note requesting me to come on as soon as possible, and to have my rifle handy on the way, for he considered it highly probable that we should have trouble with the disappointed Bakongo. Our Bambala porters had always behaved in an exemplary manner during the time they had been with us, and their quiet, inoffensive manners had caused them to become popular in every village through which we had passed, but we had never before had such an opportunity of really testing them as during the march from Bompe to Bishwambura. When they left Bompe with me they were carrying heavy loads hung upon a pole between two men, but when we came to some packages abandoned by the wayside, they cut the loads away from the pole, and, one man taking what was really a burden for two, they picked up the boxes discarded by the Bakongo, and proceeded to stagger on with them towards Bishwambura before I had time even to hint to them that I wished this to be done. Our Bambala were always ready to voluntarily undertake any extra work, and to undergo any hardship which was necessary for the success of our journey, and it is owing to the fact that we were accompanied by such gallant and devoted followers that we were able to go through the trying times which were to follow.

When I arrived at Bishwambura I found Torday under a shed outside the stockade surrounded by an angry crowd of Bakongo all demanding payment for carrying loads, and it appeared very much as if a breach of the peace would follow his refusal to give everybody present a wage. He was adamant, however, and finally the people of Bompe returned home in the evening, grumbling and discontented, leaving us to get on as best we could with the people of Bishwambura, whose acquaintance we had thus made under by no means favourable circumstances. It was not to be expected that they would be very friendly towards us, for they shared the dislike which all the other Bakongo felt towards the white man, and our dispute with the people of Bompe, although unavoidable, was hardly likely to make them particularly friendly towards us, so that we were not surprised to find ourselves treated once more in the same way as among the Bankutu of the equatorial forest. The people would sell us no chickens, and for some time declined to show us where to obtain good drinking water. Our men, however, soon found a clear stream, and we had purchased at Bompe a sufficient supply of living fowls to meet our immediate requirements, and as the Bakongo were not averse to selling food to the Bambala, our predicament was not a serious one. The chief difficulty lay in persuading the natives to carry us on to the next village. They flatly refused to take us over the rolling grassy plains which lay to the eastward, for they told us that a party of Badjok traders were encamped in a village in that direction, and that these Badjok, with whom the Bakongo were friendly, would not allow the white man to be brought anywhere near them. This struck us as rather remarkable, for we knew that the Badjok were enthusiastic traders, who like nothing better than to purchase goods imported from Europe and to sell ivory and rubber to the white man; we came to the conclusion, therefore, that this particular party of Badjok must be engaged in buying slaves from the Bakongo, for in the old days, before the arrival of the European Government, these people were noted slave traders, and this unexplored country between the Loange and the Kasai would be one of the very few remaining places where they might be able to carry on this trade unpunished. After a good deal of discussion, the people of Bishwambura agreed to carry our loads on to Kanenenke, some three miles to the south, having previously ascertained that the natives of that village would be willing to allow us to visit them. Torday went on to Kanenenke in advance, leaving me to despatch our baggage with the local Bakongo. This stage of our journey passed off without any untoward incident, but when I joined Torday in the evening I found that he had had rather an amusing experience in the village on his arrival. Upon approaching the stockade he had found two elderly men sitting smoking their pipes beneath a shed; as soon as they set eyes upon him they had jumped up with a squeal, and, carefully keeping the shed between him and themselves, they had anxiously inquired whether he was a human being or a ghost. Torday had assured them, in as much of the Bakongo language as he had been able to learn during our stay in the country, that he was not only human, but really very inoffensive, and that he had brought with him a good supply of things which the Bakongo would like to have, and which he was quite prepared to give them in exchange for food and for their services as porters when we moved on. In the meantime, a number of other natives had assembled to look at him, but it took some little time to persuade them that he really belonged to this world, for I think that the Bakongo had imagined that a “white” man ought to resemble in colour the white earth, something like chalk, which exists in small quantities in this district, so that Torday’s tanned visage by no means came up to their expectations of a European. At last one man, more courageous than the rest, had touched him, and, having satisfied himself that Torday was nothing more than ordinary flesh and blood, had persuaded the others to lay aside their fears, so that when I arrived Torday had settled down and was making himself agreeable to the chief of the village. We stayed some days in Kanenenke, and got on remarkably well with the people there; we were able to take a great number of photographs, and, by dint of giving a few pinches of salt as a reward to those who posed for us, we had no difficulty in obtaining pictures, not only of native types, but of the people performing their various daily occupations. We took several photographs of ladies having their eyelashes pulled out, for no Bakongo lady of fashion would think of appearing with any hair upon her eyelids. The eyelashes are pulled out by another woman so quickly and so neatly that the process does not so much as bring water to their eyes. It was at first somewhat disquieting to observe that after sundown there was scarcely a sober man to be found at Kanenenke, for the Bakongo are extremely fond of palm wine, in connection with the drinking of which there is a curious custom among them. Several times, when entering Bakongo villages, we noticed, at some little distance from the villages themselves, two or three logs placed as if to form seats by the wayside, and we were considerably astonished to find that these marked the meeting-places of clubs. In the evening the Bakongo men come out to bring in the wine extracted from the Elais palm, and they carry it in calabashes to these meeting-places, where groups of friends, to the number of half-a-dozen or a dozen, sit down, smoke their pipes, and drink while discussing the local gossip.