12th. Sara-dóbú, or Sara-dúgu.
13th. Falam-búgu.
14th. Swéra.
15th. Sansándi.
N.B.—Informant proceeded on this route with a caravan of camels and pack-oxen, the former travelling from morning till about four o’clock in the afternoon; the latter resting during the heat of the day, and following in the evening.
1st day. Aréni (evidently identical with Ríni), or another group of wells called Ájel el Áhmar.
2nd. Arék, sandhills, having passed the heat of the day at the Bír Áshim-mén (E’ Shemín).
3rd. Ajábi, or, if you proceed a little further, and keep more to the east, Tenwakkar.
4th. El Ghánimát, a well with a pond, or “dhaye.”
5th. Encamp at the foot of a conspicuous eminence, “e’ sín,” of the chain called “Dháhar Waláta,” which encircles El Hódh on the east side, and which is here crossed.
6th. Encamp without water.
7th. Sinyáre, a village, or ksar, of the Swánínki or Aswánek.
8th. Kála, as above. My informant states, that this town, like the last station before Sansándi, is called Swéra by the Aswánek.
9th. Falambúgu, a few miles to the west of Karadúgu.
10th. Swéra.
11th. Sansándi, a short march.
Kasambára is regarded as the chief town in Bághena, and is often the residence of the chief of the Welád Mebárek.
1st day. Lombo-tendi, a rather long day. Lombo-tendi is the name of a well, and a ksar or village of clay huts, inhabited by Rumá, or Ermá (see Vol. IV. p. 431). Besides Lombo-tendi, there are two other ksúr in Bághena inhabited by this remarkable set of mulattoes, both of them called Barasáfa, the one situated at no great distance S.E. from Lombo-tendi, the other lying near Bisága, to the N.E. These three villages together form the group called in Bághena “Ksúr e’ Rúmme.”
2nd. Tamára, a tank or dhaye.
3rd. Agámmu, a well and tank.
4th. Bú-Lawán, a well.
5th. Nʿama, a pretty ksar, or small town, built about fifty years ago by a grandson of Múláy Ismʿaáíl, in consequence of a civil war which had broken out amongst the Shurfa residing in Waláta. The village is inhabited by Shurfa, Méhajíb, and by Ídélebó. The houses are built of clay and stone; the west side of the village is skirted by a valley which contains some hundreds of palm-trees, and where some tobacco is grown. Nʿama is situated at the foot of the hilly chain which encircles the whole of El Hódh, or the basin. You arrive early in the morning.
8th. Waláta.
1st day. Encamp in the wilderness, having rested two or three hours in Bisága.
2nd. Retánne, a group of shallow wells, or hasián. You pass the heat in Benón, at present a ksar inhabited by Aswánek, but evidently identical with the place of encampment of the chief of the Ludamar (Welád ʿOmár, pronounced Ámmer), where Mungo Park suffered so much. Another road leads from Bisága to Benón, by a place called Dúnu.
3rd. Jawára, called by the Fúlbe, or Fullán, Jára Melle, once the capital of the empire of Melle, at present deserted; during the latter period of its existence inhabited by Rúmme (Rumá), and Gurmábe.
Jawára is distant one and a half day N.N.E. from Jebéga, and two days from Samakéde, passing one night in Melléri, a ksar inhabited by the Welád Dábo (the name given by the Arabs to one section of the Aswánek, or Wákoró), and passing the heat in a place called Arjóga. It is after this town, Jawára, or Jaura, that the Fúlbe call the Swánínki, or Sébe, as they style themselves (the noblest section of the Aswánek), by the name of Jaura-n-kóbe.
At a short distance from Melléri, S., lies the ksar Jemjúmmu, and W. of it, Sára.
1st day. Bisága, a ksar of Aswánek, having passed the heat of the day in Jóga.
2nd. Joróni, a ksar of Aswánek. In the morning, not far from Bisága you pass Medína, a large place, and further on Demmundáli, and rest during the heat of the day in Ágwenít, a considerable ksar, likewise inhabited by Aswánek.
3rd. Túreghámme, another ksar of Aswánek, having passed the heat in a place called Kurche.
4th. Jebéga, a ksar of Aswánek. The traveller enters Kaarta, and the roads divide. Jebéga is said to be two days S.E. of Mesíla.
5th. Samankéde, a place inhabited at present by Bámbara. You pass the heat in a village called Aréri, and leave the village Chencha on one side.
6th. El Káb, a ksar of Aswánek, having passed another place called Bú-Swéde, and rested during the greatest heat in Kórkoró.
7th. Brenta, one of the chief places of the Aswánek. You pass the heat in Yóri, another place of the Aswánek.
8th. Tenge, a village inhabited by Bámbara, and dominating a mountain pass. You halt during the hot hours of the day in Kása, a village inhabited by Bámbara people.
9th. Mámuru, the residence of a chief called Dembo Weled Músa Korbo, situated in a wide valley. You rest during the heat in Mowedína, a town inhabited by Bámbara and governed by a chief of the name of Hassan Bébelé.
10th. Lewána, a large place, and residence of a governor dependent on the King of Ségo. You rest at noon in a village inhabited by slaves of the Bámbara.
11th. Gúri, the chief place of Jáfunu (evidently identical with Raffenel’s Kóghi[73]), a considerable town built of clay, and containing, according to the statements of informants, not less that sixty msíd, or places of worship. The inhabitants are Aswánek, forming a particular stock, called by the Fúlbe “Jáfunankóbe.” The population of the country of Kajága or Gejága S. of Jáfunu is said to consist likewise of Aswánek, forming another tribe, called Hairankóbe by the Fúlbe. You rest at noon in Cháma, a place inhabited by Bámbara, and governed by a son of Morbo; and beyond that place you enter Jáfunu, Jáfuna, or, as the name is pronounced by the Arabs, Jáfena.
15th. Bú-Jedúr, as the French settlement Bakel, to the S.S.E. of Bot-hadíye, is universally called by the Arabs. There are many towns and villages on the road, the names of which informant had forgotten. You enter the province of Fúta on the 12th day.
1st day. Bisága. From Bisága to Benón is one day’s march from morning till sunset, halting at noon in Dúnu.
2nd. In the wilderness.
3rd. Ferénni, a ksar inhabited by Aswánek. It is the westernmost ksar of Bághena, being situated about six miles N.N.W. from Benón.
4th. Gógi, a shallow well, or hasi, belonging to Termessa, a district of El Hódh. Arrive about noon.
5th. Beyond a well named Talli, rich in water and adorned with small trees, where you pass the heat and proceed on your journey.
6th. Bowár, a copious well, constituting the W. frontier of El Hódh, and frequented by the tribes of the Zenágha or Senhája, Henún, and Fáta.
7th. Mesíla, a group of shallow wells, the first of which is called Akerúd. With regard to plants, the “dirs” is almost exclusively found here.
1st day. Nʿama, a ksar of the Welád Mazúk. Rest during the heat of the day in a village called San-fága.
2nd. Dýnnia, a large and wealthy town of the Welád Yággeré, residence of a governor called Músa Nájem, son of Bankóro, and dependent on the king of Bámbara. The town is rich in horses. You pass the heat in a place called Séredú, inhabited by Aswánek and Bámbara. Dýnnia is distant one day’s march W. from Alássa, resting at noon in a ksar called Wésat, inhabited by Bámbara.
3rd. Jóre, belonging to the district of Dýnnia. You pass the heat in Wáteré, a large Bámbara place.
4th. Debála, a Bámbara town, belonging to the north-western province of the Bámbara empire called Kéche. Rest during the heat in Delánga, a place distant only six or eight miles from Jóre.
5th. Mekoye, a large place, residence of the governor of Kéche. Pass Kasambúgu, a large place inhabited by Arabs and Bámbara.
13th. Nyámina, a considerable town and well-furnished market-place on the N. side of the Dhiúlibá. The market of Nyámina excels that of Sansándi in many respects, and supplies a great proportion of the inhabitants of the Western desert. The district intervening between Mekoye and Nyámina is densely inhabited, but informant does not remember the names of the places where he slept. Not far W. from Nyámina a very considerable creek or backwater separates from the river, opening an extensive inland navigation. It divides itself into two branches, the eastern one of which follows an almost northerly direction, approaching close to Tumbúlle, a ksar in the country of the Áhel Yággeré, distant a day and a half S.S.W. from Dýnnia, and thence going to Jungúnta, situated at the same distance S. from W. of Dýnnia (starting from Dýnnia, pass the heat in Farku, sleep in Sillintíggera, arrive in the morning in Jungúnta), after which the creek turns S. from W. to the country of Áhel Mása.
1st day. Dáli, one of the chief places of the Aswánek. Pass on the road the villages Zeghéri, probably identical with the زغاري of the Arab traveller Ébn Batúta (Journal As. Soc., 1852, p. 50.); farther on Serére, then Bʿaínbála, where you pass the heat of the day. E., at no great distance from Dáli, was formerly the ksar called Debbús. At a short distance E. of Bʿaínbála is the village Kóshi. Direction S.E., or rather E.S.E.
2nd. Alássa, a ksar of the tribe of the Teghdaust of mixed Aswánek and Arab blood, once very powerful and widely scattered, at present degraded to the condition of “lhame,” or “khóddemán,” serfs or tributaries, but still distinguished on the score of their learning. The town of Alássa itself is very remarkable on account of its palm trees, there being besides these no palm trees in the whole of Bághena, with the exception of two trees in Kasambára, where there were formerly four. About six miles S.S.E. from Alássa lies Safantára, a large Bámbara place. Direction, E. of S. You halt during the heat in Yengót. Here you also pass the heat of the first day in going from Alássa to Jawára in very short marches; sleep in el Awéna; halt the second day in Seghálli, sleep in Jurni (Joróni); third day sleep in Kúrche; fourth day sleep in Torangúmbu (Turaghamme); fifth day reach Jawára.
From Alássa to Akúmb is two and a half days’ march S.E. First day Raranrúlle, making a short halt at noon in Tambebógo; second day Rullúmbo, passing the heat in Fúgti; third day Akúmb; distance the same as that between Kábara and Timbúktu. A short distance N. from Akúmb is Díggena, with a mixed population of Bámbara, Aswánek, and Fullán.
3rd. Tambe-bógo, a ksar of Bámbara. Rest a couple of hours during the heat of the day in Gala-bógo, likewise inhabited by Bámbara.
4th. Nyáme-bógo, another Bámbara place, about noon.
5th. Sleep in the wilderness, having rested at noon in Dambar- (or Damboy-) keséba.
6th. Murja, in the morning.
1st day. Khersanáne, a Bámbara place; arrive between three and four o’clock, without having halted on the road.
2nd. Manzánne.
3rd. Kanú, a Bámbara place, about three o’clock P.M.
4th. Ksér (diminutive form of “ksar”) el Mʿallemín, a place inhabited by Aswánek students, and therefore so designated by the Arabs.
5th. Nyámina, before noon.
1st day. Gellu, a considerable place. It was formerly dependent upon Murja, but it has succeeded in making itself independent, while the latter place lay deserted and waste for nearly four years, and it has also preserved its independence since the rebuilding of Murja in 1852-3. Several towns or villages in the neighbourhood belong to Gellu.
2nd. Debála. Pass on the road many ksúr or small towns.
3rd. Mekoye. A long day.
I here add a few less distinct data with regard to this region from the information of Dáúd.
Between Marikoire (probably identical with Mekoye) and Debála, the following towns and villages: Belála, Dundé, Síde, Nawelénna, Kalúmbu, a Bámbara place, Debála.
Between Debála and Dinga, on a route of a little more than a day’s journey, are the following places: Wálteré, Marénna, Sírankóro, Tówa, Dócheré, Dinga. Dinga is said by this informant to be the abode of the Áhel Yéggara, a tribe of Bámbara.
Between Marikoire and Danfa, in a direction from west to east, two and a half days’ fast, or four days’ slow travelling: Búle, Tolókkoró, Séle, Búlo, Báne, Túnturubále, Kóssa, Barakóro, Bássala, two considerable villages or ksúr, inhabited by Bámbara people, Bankorondúgu, Danfa.
Between Danfa and Debála, a two days’ journey north, lie the following places: Dogoye, Ársa, Marénna, Námbara, Babanúru, Mariam-Babanúru, Jeraudu, Bóngel, Debála.
Between Yá-saláme and Sókolo, a three days’ journey: Nyenchélle, Nyarinyarínde, Káre (see below), Urlí, Sókolo; a long uninhabited tract intervening between the last two stations.
1st day. Chappáto, a ksar of the Bámbara, a few miles west from Dáli. Halt at noon in Bʿaínbála.
2nd. Jibónfo, a town inhabited by Fúlbe. Pass the heat in Úm el ʿArúk. One day from Úm el ʿArúk is Musáwelí, a considerable ksar of the Aswánek, about two hours north of Kolí. Another road from Musáwelí to Kasambára leads, 1st, to Úm el ʿArúk; on the 2nd day, by Kúsh to Kóla; on the 3rd, to Serére; on the 4th, to Kasambára. One day and a half from Jibónfo is Tangenágha. Halt at noon in Raranrúlle, a Bámbara village; sleep at Fúrti or Dambo-selli; reach at noon, the next day, Jibónfo.
3rd. Kolí, a considerable place; arrive about three o’clock P.M. It is two hours south from Musáwelí.
4th. Encamp in the open country, having halted during the heat in Kúmba, which is not farther distant from Kolí than Kábara from Timbúktu, and consists of two villages, separated from each other by a valley, where the market is held; the northern village being called Ferbága, and the southern one, Lellága.
5th. Kóla, a Bámbara place, distant two days north-west from Kála, and six from Sansándi. Arrive before noon.
2nd day. Karandúgu, dependent upon Bámbara. Country level; all the houses clay; no reed huts.
4th. Denfó, a large walled place, under the dominion of Bámbara; residence of a governor; abundance of trees, rice; horned cattle, sheep; much cotton. The natives, dressed in tobes, take their supply of water from wells. In Karandúgu informant changed his north north-easterly direction for one going west.
5th. Salákoró, a small village of Bámbara, densely inhabited. Country well cultivated. Arrive at sunset.
6th. Bernínkoró, a small village, but well inhabited. Even the smaller towns and villages in this quarter are constructed of clay. Grain in abundance; much honey and butter.
7th. Murja, a large walled place; residence of a governor called Mamári, and nicknamed by informant Elli-Bú-seruwál. The inhabitants, including the governor, all idolaters, but dress well; like all the Bámbara people, they have a golden stud in the right ear. A great portion of them speak Arabic. They are armed with muskets and arrows. The country is perfectly level; no valleys, only wells.
8th. Encamp at sunset in the open country. The country here intersected by sandy ridges, nebák or erreg rendering the passage difficult. No cultivation, but tall trees; no water.
9th. Kumba, first town of Bághena, separated by a ravine into two distinct quarters, each ruled by a governor of its own. In the ravine or valley the market is held. The inhabitants are all Mohammedans; speak Bámbara. Informant, from some cause or other, did not take the direct road from Murja to Kasambára by way of Alássa.
10th. Kolí, at sunset; a large walled town, half clay, half reed. The whole country is under cultivation; cattle and sheep; wells; no running water. The Welád e’ Rahmún, the Shébahín, besides the Aswánek, have villages on the road. There are also the Fúlbe tribes, the Bowár, with the chief Bú-genó, and the Hásinibóro, with the chief Sumbúnne, but acknowledging the supremacy of Bághena.
11th. Rorínga, a temporary dwelling-place of the roving tribes, including the Idésan. Arrive at four o’clock P.M., having rested at noon.
12th. Úm el ʿArúk, a large village, with shallow wells. Much cotton and indigo. Arrive about noon.
13th. Chapáto, a place inhabited by Sellát, a section of Aswánek, Mohammedans; many temporary settlers. Early in the morning.
14th. Kúsh, a large place, residence of the Helbúbu Welád Mahbúb, who have no handicraft or market; make war in company with the Arabs; are armed with muskets; their idiom Bámbara, Aswánek, and Arab; all clay dwellings.
15th. Tónorár, small place; as usual, consisting of clay dwellings; residence of the Arúsíyín, with their chief Sídi Sála; herds of cattle; no camels; much honey.
16th. Kserát Shigge (probably meaning “the manufacturing or weaving towns,” shigge being generally the name given to cotton in these quarters). At present the Kesíma, a section of those in Sús, dwell here. Arrival in the morning early.
17th. Kasambára, large place; clay and reed; residence, at the time of informant’s journey, of Mukhtár, son of Mohammed, whom my informant believed able to bring into the field from 6000 to 7000 cavalry, but only a few infantry.
The name of Bághena, as it comprises part of the ancient territory of Ghánata, has evidently also supplanted the ancient name. At present it does not comprise a country naturally or politically united; for, naturally considered, Bághena forms part of the district El Hódh, at least that portion of it which is most favoured by nature; and in a political point of view it consists of the most heterogeneous elements, comprising districts inhabited by Aswánek, Arabs, and Fullán. The former, even at the end of the last century, were very powerful, when they became known to Venture under the name of Marka[75], through the medium of those two Moroccain merchants who visited Paris at that time. This name is given to them by the Bámbara, who call their country Marka-kanne or kanda, and are greatly intermixed with them. The Fullán hereabouts also formerly had great power, and have become famous under the name Kowár.
The Aswánek, Swánínki, Sébe, or Wákoré, were the original inhabitants of the country, and once formed the principal stock in the vast and glorious empire of Ghánata, the ruling class not improbably belonging to the Púllo stock, the Leukæthiopes, who were settled in this very region since the time of Ptolemy, till they were overpowered by the nearly related tribe of the Mandingoes or Júli, who, on the ruins of the empire of Ghánata, founded a new empire, extending its influence over the whole middle course of the great river. This new empire was called “Melle,” from melle, a word meaning “free,” “noble,” as the dominating tribe of the Mandingoes called themselves, in opposition to their oppressed brethren, the Aswánek, just in the same manner as the free, roving portion of the Berbers from ancient times seem to have called themselves Mázigh, Imóshagh, in opposition to the degraded settlers in the towns. The feeble remains of the empire of Melle, which had been nearly annihilated by the Songhay, were extinguished, as it seems, in the beginning of the reign of Múláy Ismʿaíl, when the Arabs on the one side, and the Bámbara on the other, began to take the lead in those quarters, while the Fúlbe or Fullán appeared in the background.
The catastrophe of the extinction of this last remnant of the empire of Melle is not without interest in the modern history of the western part of Central Africa. For a civil war having arisen between the royal princes Dábo and Sagóne, sons of Feréngh Mahmúd, the late king or ruler of Melle, (the title “Feréngh,” instead of the more exalted one of Mansa, showing his reduced state of rank,) all the most powerful tribes in that part of the continent took part in the quarrel: one faction being formed by the Bámbara, who, in the meantime, had won Ségo from their masters and near relations the Mandingoes, the Welád Mazúk, the noblest portion of the Welád Mebárek, and the Áhel Sembóru, that is to say, a section of the Fullán, who meanwhile had settled in these quarters; while the opposite party consisted of the Rumá, or Ermá, the Moroccain conquerors of Songhay, who had settled down in certain places of that vast empire, and intermarried with the natives; the Zenágha; the Welád ʿAlúsh, a very warlike tribe, mentioned above; and the Áhel Mása, or Sáro, a section of the Wákoré. In this struggle the capital of Melle was destroyed; and while the people of Bámbara took possession of the south-western portion of its dominions, the Welád Mebárek, with their friends the Welád Mazúk, rendered themselves masters of its north-eastern districts. For Hennún, the son of Bóhedel, son of Mebárek, who had led this tribe in the sanguinary and long-lasting war, received from the hands of Muláy Ismʿaíl, the energetic emperor of the Gharb, as a sort of feudal dominion, the lordship of Bághena; and his successors have at least partly retained it up to this day. I here give a list of these chiefs, adding the length of their reigns, wherever I was able to make it out:—
ʿOmár (Ámmer) Weled Hennún, a powerful chief, who has given his name to the ruling tribe, which, after him, is called Welád ʿOmár (Ámmer), a name corrupted by Park into Lúdamar.
ʿAlí Weled ʿOmár ruled almost forty years; was visited by Park shortly before his death.
ʿOmár Weled ʿAlí, ruled about thirteen years.
Mohammed Weled ʿOmár was chief about the same number of years.
ʿAlí Weled Mohammed was chief seven years.
Hennún Weled Mohammed murdered his brother ʿAlí, but was chief only four months, being murdered in his turn by
Mukhtár, a near relative of his, who was chief for about twelve years.
Babúne succeeded him. Between this chief and Hámed Weled ʿAlí e’ Sheikh Weled Hennún Weled Bóhedel, there arose a civil war, which lasted seven years, devastating all Bághena, and weakening especially the power of the Arabs. At the end of seven years, Hámed died, Babúne, who altogether ruled about nine years, surviving him by one year. He was succeeded by
ʿAlí Weled el Mukhtár, the present chief of the Welád Mebárek, who in 1853 had ruled two years.
As for the Fullán, or Fúlbe, they had become very numerous in Bághena, and were in possession of several ksúr, principally Dáguní, Jibónfo, Kemeñyómo, Nara, Kebda, Barréu, and Gurúnge, till they were driven out of these places by ʿOmár Weled Hennún, when most of the ksúr remained deserted. But the policy of the Fullán of Bághena became entirely changed when their brethren on the other side of the river, led on by the fanatical and energetic chieftain Mohammed Lebbo, raised the standard of the Jihád in the year 1821. Jealous of their political independence, which thus became threatened, they then joined the Arabs in their struggle against the new empire of Hamda-Alláhi, and supported them. Nevertheless, favoured as he was by the civil war amongst the latter, the chief Áhmedu, son of Mohammed Lebbo, made considerable progress in Bághena, which was not arrested until recently. At present Sumbúnne, son of Bú-Bakr, the present emír of the Fullán in Bághena, has built a new ksar, the place El Imbedíye mentioned above, situated a few miles east from Lombo Tendi, and to the north of another ksar called Gurúnge. There is also a Pullo emír in Bághena, of the name Ábú El Háji Ibrahíma, who seems to enjoy considerable authority.
As for the Aswánek of Bághena, who, as will have been gleaned already from the itineraries, are masters of many ksúr, their present policy is said to consist in keeping prudently in the background, and economising their strength for some great exertion in favour of their own independence. I here insert a list of the several sections into which the Aswánek are divided, as far as I have become acquainted with them:
The Kométen, in Sansándi or Sansánni, which originally was an Aswánek town.
The Síse, not unlikely related with the Súsu.
The Sása.
The Konne.
The Berta.
The Berre.
The Dúkkera, or Dúkerát.
The Silláwa, or Sillát.
The Kágorát, a very remarkable tribe, distinguished by a lighter hue, and, according to report, even by a peculiar idiom, while in other respects, especially by the three cuts which they make along both cheeks, they approach closer to the customs of the Bámbara and Áhel Mása.
The Kúnnatát.
The Jáwarát, speaking nothing but the pure Aswánek language, and divided into the two sections of the Welád Dábo and the Swági, the latter especially being very numerous and warlike.
The Fófanát.
The Dárisát.
The chief of the Aswánek in Bághena is Músa, son of Benédik, who resides in Ershán, at no great distance W. from Bisága.
Related to the Aswánek are also the Sáro, whose seats are one day S. from Jinni, and who, together with the Bámbara, fight against the Fúlbe. Their former chief was Chong Weled Músa.
The hostilities carried on between the inhabitants of the northern banks of the Niger, or Dhiúliba, as a whole, on the one side, and the Fúlbe of Hamda-Alláhi on the other, exercise their influence also upon the relation which exists between the Arabs of Bághena and the Bámbara, which therefore at present cannot but be a friendly one.
On the whole, the country of Bághena, which well deserves the attention of Europeans, is not less capable of fixed settlements, than it is fit for rehála life, or nomadic wandering, although it is not suited for the camel. Besides cultivation of dukhn, or, as it is here called, bíshen, or héni, and dhurra or sába, wild rice is procured from the numerous swamps formed in the rainy season, as is also the case in the whole of El Hódh. The trees most common in Bághena are the tédum or baobab, at least in the southern districts, the róma or líyene, the chígfit, the baferéwa, and the aúrnal; of the date-tree I have spoken above.
1st day. Mabrúk, a large well, or hasi.
5th. Ajwér, a large and much frequented well, distant a long day’s journey W. from the celebrated well “Bir Nwál.”
As far as Ajwér, the direction is almost N., but here it becomes N.W.
10th. Agérijít, in former times nothing but a well, but in the year 1850, owing to a civil war having broken out in Tishít, one section of the Welád Bille left their home and settled near this well, where they built a small ksar or village. Here the direction of the road changes to the W.
11th. Tishít, or as the place is called by its original inhabitants, Shétu. These indigenous inhabitants of Tishít are the Másina, a section of the Aswánek, or Azér, consisting of two divisions, one of darker, and the other of lighter colour. These Másina are the founders of the kingdom of Másina, or Másín, whose centre was the island, or rúde, formed by the Máyo Balléo and the Máyo Rannéo, with Tenéngu as its chief place. It is still an important market-place. Tishít is said by the Arabs to have been founded by ʿAbd el Múmen about the fifth century of the Hejra; but that means only that about the period indicated the Berbers took possession of the town, the original name of which they thus changed into Tishít. At present there live in the town, intermixed with the Másina, the Welád Bille, who about two centuries ago formed an extremely rich and powerful tribe, but part of whom, as stated before, have at present emigrated. The consequence is, that the town has decayed greatly, and seems scarcely to contain at present more than about 3000 inhabitants. Besides the Welád Bille, there live also in Tishít a certain number of Zuwaye or Tolba, especially the Áhel Hindi Nislim.
Tishít lies not far from the southern foot of the Kódia, which encircles El Hódh, and there is, at no great distance from it, a sebkha, where an inferior kind of salt is obtained. The only produce of the place are dates of various quality, the names of which are as follows:—Básebúrk, Dérmakúl, Dérmasúggin, Batáye, Mandínga, Géti, Habbes, Getfáf, Dáram, Birkeráwi, Zengít, Tamaraníye. All other articles of food are brought from Nyámi, which forms the great market-place of Tishít and the surrounding country.
There is another more westerly road, leading from Kasambára to Tishít, and reaching on the 4th day the well called “bir Fóg,” or, perhaps, “fók,” meaning “the upper well;” on the 8th, another well or hasi, called “Ájwe,” and bringing the traveller to Tishít on the 10th before noon.
1 short march. Ágerijít, the well where the road from Kasambára joins.
1 short march. Tuwéjínit.
1 long march. Bottat el abés.
1 short march. Áratán.
1 short march. ʿImód elán, hills or columns of sand, one of them called ʿAmad el Abiadh. This station is very important, as it is the point where the direct road from Wadán to Waláta joins this track. See lower down.
½ day. Bú-mehaye.
1 day. Íghelád Timasóra.
½ day. Shebbi, “mʿaden sheb abiadh,” mines of white
alum.1 long day. Ojáf.
1 day. Tagoráret.
½ day. El ʿAyún Khanfóreten Aísa.
1 day. Wádi Níti, with wells (hasián) and íghelád.
1 day. Waláta.
3rd day. Týggebo, a ksar, or village, inhabited by the Teghdaust, a very remarkable tribe about whom I shall say more farther on, and by the Tájakánt. The village belongs to the district called Erkíz, perhaps identical with what others call Taskast. About ten miles west from Týggebo there is an ancient place called Nyadásh, inhabited likewise by the Teghdaust.
4th. Ergébe, or rather a resting place in the hilly district called by that name. In another part of this hilly tract, on the frontier of Afólle, a party of Zuwaye have recently built a ksar, or small town of the name of Makámet.
5th. Énwasár, a shallow well or hasi.
10th. Bú-bothá, a well or hasi, evidently near a bothá or swampy depression. Between Énwasár and this place there are other watering places, but informant has forgotten their names.
11th. Jók, a well or hasi.
14th. Limódu, a ksar or village inhabited by the Medrámberín, a tribe of the Kunta.
16th. Jígge, a valley with plenty of water in the rainy season.
17th. El Mal, a small island in a lake of fresh water, and not even drying up during the dry season.
19th. Krá el ásfar, a creek of the bahr Fúta or Senegal, so called by the Arabs.
21st. Bír el Ghála, a well.
22nd. Testaye, a well.
23rd. Bothádíye or el Bot-há, as Fort St. Joseph seems to be called by the Arabs.
5 days. Bú-Sefíye.
½ day. Khat el Moina or Shwékh.
1 day. Lobér.
1 long. Tin-tét or Ghaléb e’ dál.
1 day. Felísh el milha.
1 day. Kátib.
1 day. El Badiyát.
1 day. El Jerádiyát.
1 day. Ganeb, a well or hasi, with date palms.
1 day. Dikil gháleb.
1 day. Tishít.
From Wadán to the sebkha Íjil, a salt basin at the foot of a considerable mountain, is ten days’ journey with laden camels, and seven with unladen ones going at a swift rate.
1 day. Tagálift, on the northern side of the valley.
½ day. Úm el bédh.
2 days. Aushísh, in the district called Maghtér, consisting of high sandy downs.
½ day. Bot-há el haye.
1½ day. El Argíye, the nearest well to the salt lake.
One day S. from the sebkha is the high mount Íjil.
3½ days. Warán.
1 short. Tésserat-ú-Láhiat.
1 long. Temnakarárit.
1½ day. Ijúfa, all sandy downs.
1¼ day. Akáratín e’ sbot and Akáratín el had.
1 day. El Mehámer.
½ day. El Ksar-rawát.
1 day. Engéwel.
1 day. Agamíyirt.
1 day. Imódhelán; here this route joins the former one.
1 day. Bú-meháye.
1 short. Begére, a dhaye.
½ day. Shebbi.
½ day. Keddámu.
½ day. Warásh.
1 short. El Atilt (El Ethelet?) seráye.
1 short. Rek Érdhedhír.
1 long. El Ogúdh el himmál.
1 day. Rodh el hamra.
1 day. El Felísh.
1 day. El Derrúmbekát.
½ day. Waláta.
1 short day. Tanúshirt, a hasi, with date trees. “Tanú” means vale.
1 day. Áherúr.
4 days. Áwakan. This part of the road passes through a desert tract without wells, called Táyarát Idáw el Háj.
1 day. Sharaníye.
1 day. Hasi el harka.
1 day. Itílen, a mound.
1 day. El Khat, having passed the heat in Bú-Sefíye. El Khat, is a rich valley which I shall say more about in the general account of El Hódh, and a very important locality where most of the routes traversing this region join. Áwakan, which will be mentioned in a following itinerary, is thus tolerably well determined.
1 day. Roj, a well.
1 day. Shingít, an ancient town which has become very famous in the whole of the east on account of its having given its name to all the Arabs of the west. The reason of this is said to be, that a distinguished man, a native of this place of the name of ʿAbd e’ Rahmán visited the court of Harún e’ Ráshid. I shall say more about this place further on.
1 day. Encamp beyond the Ákela without a well.
1 day. Hawéshi.
1 day. Awázgar, (identical with Áwakan?) with a hasi at the foot of the kódia, leaving the small town of Átar eastward.
1 day. Tákenus and el Khósa.
1 day. El Sharaníye, a hasi, or well, belonging to the Welád el Wáfi, and still forming part of Áderér e’ temar.
1 day. El Khat Smirár, a tract with many wells, but, as it seems, on high ground, from whence Tejígja, Ksar el Barka, Rashíd, and even Tisígi, may be seen.
1 day. Tagánet el bédha.
1 day. Rashíd.
N.B.—Átar is two days E. of Shingít and Ojúft, another ksar or village which is two days S.E. of Shingít, and one day S.S.W. of Átar. (These data I had not made use of in my map.)
1 day. Tozarótín, with a well or hasi.
1 short. Zeríbe, a dhaye or pond.
1 day. Áús, difficult march, high kódia.
1 day. A locality a short distance to the south of Shingít.
3 days through the Ákela, without a well; then reach Kíder Wámu, a well three days from Shingít.
1 day. Áwakan, the above-mentioned well.
1 day. Hasi il harka.
1 day. Shwékh, or Khat el Moina, on the south side of the Khat.
1 day. El Laye, a well.
½ day. Tanúshight.
1 short. Atwél and Awén Tisba.
1 day. E’ Nwalík Warzák.
½ day. Either Tejígja or Rashíd, two villages in Tagánet, the distance of both these places being the same. Tejígja is a place of considerable renown.
2 days. Wedán, with a large dhaye or pond.
1 short. Adírg el Mejúj.
1 day. Dhú el Rodíye, passing by Daúdad.
1 day. E’ Nugga.
½ day. Korkol, a kódia or hill at the frontier of Tezízzay, between Aúkár and El Kódia.
½ day. Gárrugát.
1 short. Agúrsh Gasámu.
1 day. Gundége nwamélen (wan mellen?) two mountains with hasián.
1 day. Kífa, a well or hasi.
1 day. Úm el Ákhseb, a dhaye or tamurt, surrounded by baobab trees.
1 day. Samba-sandíggi, a well, with plenty of sgillem (the dúm-bush) and deléb palms.
1 day. Isíl, a dhaye.
1 day. Gár-allah, a large dhaye. The district Asába is south from here.
1 day. Erísh.
1 day. Elgílte el Khaddra, a large dhaye or pond full of fish.
1 day. Encamp in the open country.
1 day. Jáfena or Jáfunu, or rather Gúghi or Gúri, the capital of that province, which is four or five days south of Bowár or ʿAkerút, a well in Mesíla.
Kasr el Barka is one short day south-west from Rashíd.
1st day. Gébbu, a tamurt or dhaye, where sába or dhurra and wheat is cultivated by the Welád Sídi Haiballa, who usually encamp here.
2nd. Tisígi, a short well at the foot of a kódia, from whence the passes crossing the range of sandhills towards the south are seen.
3rd. El Júwelát e’ Twáma, two of these passes, either of which you may choose.
4th. Úm e’ dér, a hasi or well belonging to the district Agán.[77]
5th. El ʿAíní, a hasi or well.
6th. Titárikt or Ásabay, a well about thirty-five fathoms in depth, and the most eastern of “El Ábiár,” or the deep wells, which have given their name to the whole district called “El Ábiár.”
Besides the wells here mentioned, the most famous wells of “El Ábiár” are the following, all lying west of Aftót:—Ár-éddeke, Bú-Telehíye, Rézelán, Bír el Barka, Dukhn, Bú-Tweríge, Yáre, Bú-Tumbúski. Further to the north-west from Aftót, and at the distance of about two days north from Bú-Tweríge, is a famous well called Bú-télimít, but not to be confounded with the well of the same name mentioned hereafter. In the district of Aftót there are only shallow wells.
7th. El Wastha, a deep well, dug in stony ground.
8th. Twersát, a group of shallow wells.
9th. A well, being the property of a man called E’ Sheikh el Kádhi, with an encampment of the Ijéjebó.
10th. Tin-dámmer Abél, a well.
11th. Bú-télimít, a large well or hasi near the camping grounds of the Brákena, much frequented. From here Bot-hadíye is said to be only one day and a half distant. If that is the case, the latter must be identical with some place in the “Ile de Morfil.”
2nd day. Tésigí, the locality mentioned above.
3rd. Létfatár, a large tamurt or pond.
4th (long), Agáyar, a well or hasi.
5th. Gímí, a hasi, belonging, like the foregoing one, to the district Aftót.
6th. Keréni, a hasi.
7th. El Wád, a valley without water.
8th. El Árruwa, a hasi.
9th. Encamp in the wilderness without water.
10th. Shemmáma, a name which is given by the Arabs to the whole district along the north side of the Senegal. You arrive at the river opposite two villages called (by the Arabs) Gúru ’l hajar. It seems not to be identical with the Gúri ’l haire of the Fúlbe, as that is one short day from Bakel, while our route evidently follows a far more westerly course, even west of the one which I am about to give.
1st day. Énjekúdi, or Tisílit Táleb Mahmúd, a well with an encampment of Arabs, called collectively by my informant, Shénagít, and Limtúna.
2nd. Monge, a village of the Limtúna, consisting of tents made of camels’ hair.
3rd. Moyet, another village of the Limtúna, or rather two sections of this once powerful but now degraded Berber tribe, the Dagebámbera (this is probably not their proper name), and the Welád e’ Shefága.
4th. Basengíddi, a village inhabited by the Limtúna, the Twabér (a section of the former), El Hejáj, the Rehála, El Héba, and the Welád ʿAbd-Allah. The country rather hilly.
5th. Wanja, or Jenúr, as you choose, both of them being settlements of Arabs and close to each other. Here live the Tagát, the Idáw el Hassan, the Welád Biyéri, and the Jéjeba; the food of these people consisting of sour milk, dhurra, and fruits. From this spot you obtain a view of the mountains of Tagánet and Asába.
6th. Marde, a well with an encampment of the same tribes as Wanja. The country is hilly and rich in herbage, the mountains or vales being adorned with plenty of trees.
7th. Téri, a pool of stagnant water in the rainy season, while during the dry season only a well is to be found here. The country rather hilly.
8th. Ásherám, a settlement of different tribes. The mountains of Tagánet seem to be quite near.
9th. Tisílit Akerárer, a wádí in a mountainous tract with scattered groups of tents inhabited by Arabs.
10th. Dwenki, a mountain with a pool of stagnant water at its foot, but only in the rainy season; during the dry season only a well is found.
11th. Yogbáshi, a mountain with temporary inhabitants. Few trees.
12th. Nufni, a mountain pass, “the entrance or gate of Tagánet,” the mountains being very high.
From Nufni to Kasr el Barka is a march of two days.
1st day. Samba-rainji, a considerable place inhabited by Aswánek, and situated in a level tract enclosed between the foot of the mountains and the river.
2nd. Hasi Weled ʿAlí Bába, a well lying in the vale or depression enclosed between the two mountain ranges, along which your road winds. Kómandó, a considerable Aswánek village lies on a more easterly road.
3rd. Hasi Shagár, another well with a camp of Arabs in the dry season.
4th. Tektáke, as the place is called by the Arabs, or Bú-túmke, as it is called by the Aswánek and Fullán or Fúlbe, the population consisting chiefly of Aswánek. The village lies in the midst of the mountains; the houses are built of clay, and a few gardens are cultivated in the neighbourhood, for although there is no running stream, water is said to be found at the depth of only one foot under ground, and the mountains or “gidé,” as they are called in Aswánek, are full of trees. The country nominally under the dominion of Fúta.
5th. Jibáli, or, as the name is pronounced by the Arabs, Jubélli, a village situated in the midst of the mountains, at times inhabited, at others deserted. On pursuing your road you cross a mountain ridge, and then wind along a valley. The mountains contain excellent rock for grindstones shaped in quadrangular forms, and like the stone found in the mountains near Mekka.
6th. Búnga, an Aswánek village surrounded by steep rocks; some gardens are cultivated.
7th. Moila, an Aswánek village. The road keeps always in the mountainous tract.
8th. Samma, an Aswánek village.
9th. Tattopútti, formerly a village, but at present deserted.
10th. Wákuré, as it is called by the Fullán, or Woló by the natives, a large place situated in a deep valley or irregular vale, the rivulet Gallúla flowing at no great distance towards the W. from the place.
11th. Babbu, a village in a mountainous tract.
12th. Kachukoróne, another village.
13th. Gelléil.
14th. Garáf Bafál, situated in the midst of the mountains, and being the temporary abode of different wandering tribes.
15th. Fúmo-báche, another settlement of that kind.
16th. Fúmo-láwel, the same.
17th. Nebék, a place of the same nature; mountainous tract continues.
18th. Áwenet Ár, the beginning of Tagánet, the south-eastern corner of which is here hemmed in by the mountains of Asába.
Asába, according to this informant, is a broad mountain range, diverging as a northern branch from the main range, the general direction of which is towards Bundu, from which country it is separated by the river. The Fúlbe call this mountainous tract “Hairi-n-gar,” and the Aswánek call it Gidé.
1st day. Kunna (see above), a small town, but an important market place, situated originally on the western bank of the máyo balléo, on an island in the Dhiúliba, enclosed by the máyo balléo, “the blue river,” and the máyo dhannéo, or “the white river,” but at present built on the eastern shore of the máyo balléo. What is very remarkable, it is said to be inhabited by Songhay. A short march of three hours.
2nd. Núkuma, a place or district situated on the island or “rúde,” enclosed by the two branches of the river. Here in the beginning of his career resided Mohammed Lebbo. There seem to be several hamlets, one of which is called Sébbera.
3rd. Tummay, still on the island or rúde.
4th. Sáre-dína, a large place, and evidently one of the first towns converted to Islám in these regions, situated on the western bank of the máyo dhannéo, which you cross here, at half a day’s distance E.N.E. of the ancient town Zágha or Jáka. Inhabitants Songhay.
5th. Tógoró, a group of villages or hamlets, inhabited by the Fullán conquerors. In Tógoró the road divides, one branch leading N.E. in two short days to Tenéngu, the original capital of Másina, passing by Tumúra, a large district inhabited by Fúlbe.[78]
6th. Somógirí, a considerable place inhabited by Bámbara of the country.
7th. Diggíseré, an important Bámbara town, at some miles distance S.W. from Tenéngu, the road leading to which place, and from thence to Yá-saláme, whither a person may also proceed from Diggíseré (see above), informant has left on his right. Country open, adorned with zizyphus.
8th. Fetokóle, a small place. The country rich in trees, the principal produce consisting in rice and cotton.
9th. Káre, a Bámbara town, governed by an officer of the name of Búgoní. The country hereabouts rich in cattle and camels, but the wells are said to have an enormous depth, according to informant not less than sixty fathoms. Cotton strips are the standard currency of the market.
14th. Sókoló, a town inhabited by Bámbara people, but belonging to Másina. Between the two stations you traverse for five days an open country inhabited by Arab tribes, as the Welád Sʿaíd, the Welád ʿAlúsh and the Gelágema, and rich in elephants, giraffes, and buffaloes, abundance of water being found in stagnant pools. On the second day of this march you leave the town of Kála on your left.
19th. Aláso or Alássa, a place belonging to Bághena, and inhabited by the Welád ʿOmrán. The country which you traverse is thickly covered with trees, and is the abode of the Nimádi, a wild set of people, who are stated by my informant to possess nothing but dogs, with which they hunt the large antelope called “bakr el wáhesh” by the Arabs. (The name “Nimádi,” is probably not the real name of these people.) You sleep four nights in the open country.
22nd. Kabúde, a well with temporary settlers. Pass two nights in the open country without a dwelling.
26th. Mú-sáweli, a considerable place of Bághena. You pass on your march several other places, the names of which informant does not remember.
27th. Dúguní, a middle-sized town.
28th. Debámpa, a large town of Bághena. All the houses are built of clay.
29th. Toróngu, another place of importance.
30th. Tíndi, a small town about seven days N.W. from Kolí, another town of Bághena. Tíndi is inhabited by Aswánek or Swanínki.
31st. Khat e’ dem, a temporary dwelling-place of Arabs belonging to the tribes of the Welád Mohammed, the Funti, and the Henún, with the Sheikh Mohammed Fádhel, son of the protector Mukhtár. All the dwellings consist of tents of camels’ hair. Khat e’ dem forms the beginning of the district called El Hódh.
33rd. Tokko, a large pool of stagnant water, round which there is an encampment of Arabs.
35th. Derís, a dwelling-place of the “White Arabs,” as my informant calls them. Many tribes are wandering hereabouts; but almost all the towns are at present in the hands of the Fúlbe or Fullán. Nʿamá, the small town mentioned above as having been built by the Shurfa, is three days E. a little N. from Derís.
37th. Nwal, a well with an encampment of Arabs.
42nd. Tádirt, a well with tents of the same.
47th. Líbe, a well of the same character.
50th. Mesíla, a spring of running water at the foot of the Kódia which surrounds El Hódh. The water of Mesíla is said to run towards the south.
N.B. It must be borne in mind in laying down this route that my informant, a Púllo, wished to avoid the seats of the Welád Mebárek, and therefore followed in his generally northerly direction a very roundabout way.
56th. Afúlle, or rather an open Arab village in the district so named, the mountainous country having been entered on the fifty-second day. Afúlle borders on Kaarta, and its eastern part is inhabited by Bámbara, but the northern portion is inhabited by the following Arab tribes: the Fáta, the Welád e’ Násr, the Elkwézi, or Lighwézi, the Askír, the Welád Bóde, and by two tribes of Zuwaye or Merábetín, viz. the Tenwaijió and the Lághelél. Some of the divisions of these tribes are settled in the mountains, while others live in the plain called El Khénashísh, rich in pasture-grounds, between which and the mountains there is a small town called Túgguba.
59th. Tiñírgi, a well with Arab settlers. Country mountainous.
62nd. Úmmat el adhám, a well. The last three days no water is found along the road, while in general, even in the tract intervening between two stations marked by my informant, watering-places are occasionally met with.
67th. Kawál, a lively spring of water. Country mountainous.
73rd. Túgguba, an open village inhabited by Arabs. Many springs in the mountains.
76th. Waya, another Arab village.
78th. Meshíla, called by my informant “rás el Fúta,” as the beginning of Fúta (at least in former times).
I now give the route from Meshíla to Kahaide:—
1st day. Samóga, a mountain belonging to the mountainous district Asába.
2nd. Wákoré, a village inhabited by Aswánek, but subjected to Fúta as well as to the Zenágha Arabs, to whom they pay tribute.
3rd. Galúla, a village inhabited by Aswánek, and dependent upon Wákoré. It is situated at the foot of a mountain, from the top of which a brook of living water rushes down. This watercourse is called Galúla like the village, and is said to be full of fish.
4th. Dé il Kurbán, an Arab settlement on a wádí, with running water during the rainy season, which is said to flow into the Senegal. Country not under cultivation.
5th. Jumlaníye, another dwelling-place of the Zenágha on the same wádi.
6th. Wau Sámberlám, a high mountain ridge extending towards Bundu.
7th. Gílte, another locality in the same ridge. The country not under cultivation, and only temporarily inhabited after the rains.
8th. Tashót, a wádí with water in the rainy season. No cultivation.
9th. Bú-ʿAmúd, an open tract of country, the pasture-grounds for the cattle of the Fullán.
10th. Tara-múl, a locality on the same wádí. The country full of the large species of antelopes, giraffes, elephants, and buffaloes, and richly clad with large trees.
11th. Shillíyul, the same wádí richly adorned with trees. The country nearly level, only broken by a few hills. Abundance of cattle.
12th. Sugurére, a Fullán village. Country hilly.
13th. Bailabúbi, on the same wádí. The country hilly; nothing but pasture-grounds.
14th. Píttangál, another settlement of Fullán shepherds.
15th. Bogilchéle, a place of the same description. At this point the Gurgul balléo, or black Gurgul, a small water course coming from the N.E. in the direction of Gallúla, joins the Gurgul dhannéo, running from Akerére in Tagánet, the two forming henceforward a considerable watercourse, at least during the rainy season. According to this informant, the small craft from Kahaide can navigate this creek, but of such a communication the French accounts of the Senegal give no indication.
16th. Maktachúchi, or, as the spot is called in the Fulfúlde language, Lumbírde-chútinkóbe, a large pool of stagnant water with river horses, and surrounded by fine pasture-grounds. A section of the Limtúna are said to cultivate this ground.
17th. Rak Hilhébe, the plain of Hilhébe; property of the Brákena.