Cape to China

9 P.M.—Arrived in Simon’s Bay, just five weeks from Madeira, and the fastest passage by a sailing ship on record.

This cape always brings happy recollections of bygone days, when I was free as the air and without a care or thought beyond the present.

Hired a two-wheel pair-horse cart and drove brother Tom, three youngsters, and Thompson to Cape Town. Parke’s hotel. Called with Tom on Mrs. Stoll, Longmores, and the Lorentzs. At Lorentz’s met their daughter Louisa, whom I had last seen as a pretty child, riding like a boy on a goat. She was now a widow; the handsome mother of six children.

A regular Cape north-easter blowing. Nothing to be done afloat. Tom and I breakfasting with the Stolls. Dined at table d’hôte—a large party.

To Sans Souci to call. Tea at Lorentz’s, meeting Stolls.

Landed £50,000 in gold; sent £300 in copper to Penelope. Governor kindly lending his eight-horse waggon, started for Simon’s Bay, calling at Sans Souci and on the Bishop.

Dined to-day with the midshipmen. We sat down twenty-four. Not only was their mess good and comfortable, with everything clean and in good taste, but one could not have met a nicer set of lads. They appeared in clean white waistcoats. Felt proud of my boys!

At last we have rounded Acheen Head and passed through the “Surat” passage into the Malacca Straits.

In a calm let go first anchor in India. From this date our batta commences.

Came to in Penang Roads; was saluted. On landing took up my quarters with friend Lewis. Old Jack Rodyk here. With Lewis, two daughters, one just from England, and a Miss Neubrouner.

Ship taking in water and otherwise getting ready, but contrary to my religion to start on a Friday. Dined with Campbell, late of Singapore.

Weighed before daylight.

Came up with the barque on board of which were Miss Blundell and Amy Neubrouner. Serenaded them in passing.

Arrived in New Harbour; so altered and improved. Called on Governor, who lodged me on the hill. Dined with Biddle at Adelphi; met Anabassim: the rogue still alive.

The saddest news of a treacherous and murderous attack made by Chinese on my noble friend, James Brooke, at Sarawak. Dear and noble Rajah, would that I could rush to his assistance.

Received a “welcome back” in an address signed by most of the residents. Dined with Sir William Hoste on board Spartan.

Dined with friend Davidson in his new capacity of married man.

Dined with Napier and his wife, meeting Mrs. Earle with a ten-year-old child, a most promising filly! (Met her again as Mrs. Alt.)

Spartan, Sir William Hoste, starting in tow of steamer to the assistance of Brooke, taking Prince Victor with him, to rejoin us at Hong-Kong. Delayed departure until after dark. Dined with Governor Blundell.

Weighed in the night.

Poor Laverty departed this life at 2. Yesterday week overtook him and Owen walking up from new harbour to Singapore in the heat of the day, and admonished them for their rashness. They have since been delirious with fever, which in Laverty’s case ended fatally.

Committed the remains of poor Laverty to the deep. How preferable such a burial and grave to a shore funeral!

During the forenoon passed through bamboo fishing buoys, too numerous to be avoided, but we did them no injury, the bamboo floating perpendicularly some six or eight feet out of the water, and distinguished by a small flag or rag on the top.

Early, we made the land to the southward of Macao. Shortly after noon, running through the usual passage between the islands—guns loaded to salute the flag—I had just signed the usual returns, when we felt as if the ship had struck some heavy floating timber: the leadsman calling “By the mark, seven,” at the same time reports from the lower deck that daylight could be seen through the rent in the ship’s side. We beat to quarters: an unusual event during the men’s dinner hour! I knew we were nearly equidistant from Hong-Kong and Macao. I took a second view from below. With the easterly wind we might fetch Hong-Kong, but for Macao, we should have to run before it. We bore up. My trusty Turnour repeated orders clearly and distinctly. I took charge of the conning of the ship, the men working cheerfully. My object was to ground in shoal water. While running we passed so close to more than one small island that a man might have dropped on shore from the rigging. After a while, from the hammock-netting where I stood, a ship at anchor off Macao was seen. With a glass we made her out to be a frigate flying the French Admiral’s flag. The first lieutenant was directed to lower fore royal, hoist French flag and fire a salute. The foremost main-deck guns had been run aft to prevent the ship from settling forward; they were already loaded for our own flag. Most of our after-ports had more than one muzzle protruding. A boat was seen coming from the French ship, but there was nothing to show that we were in distress beyond our ensign at the peak, hoisted Union Jack downwards, which could not be seen from Macao on account of studding sails. It was a few minutes after this, I felt we were nearing the bottom. By feeling the bow rise ever so gently I knew we had touched the mud-bank between the Roko and Typa Islands. The French boat was alongside before we knew that we were no longer forging ahead.

The officer was quickly informed what had happened. The frigate was the Virginie, carrying the flag of Rear-Admiral Guérin, who came himself to see how he could help us. His officer met him at the gangway and without delay explained what had happened. The gallant Guérin no longer thought of nationalities. He embraced and kissed me, exclaiming, “C’est magnifique! C’est magnifique!” A British frigate saluting the French flag while sinking! If we had been French we could not have received more kind assistance. In the meantime marines with their officers were landed to clear the island of Chinese, and select a suitable place for our encampment. When the ship stopped in the mud at 3 P.M., she had ten feet of water in the hold. By eight o’clock she had eighteen. With the assistance of our allies, the ship’s company’s hammocks and bags, goods and chattels, as well as ship’s sails, had been landed. On the way out we had built a bridge across before the mizen-mast, and over the wheel. On this I remained, the kind Frenchmen sending me food and some uncommon good claret. The French Admiral had despatched the Catinat with Lieutenant Goodenough to Hong-Kong.

Bittern, Lieutenant Butler, arrived.

The Admiral, Sir Michael Seymour, who had been absent, came himself. The ship settled down in her soft bed as if she intended never to rise again.

Captain Keith Stewart, Nankin, 50, and Inflexible arrived; we really did not require them.

The Commander-in-Chief was now busy preparing for the destruction of the China Fleet, which, being up rivers and creeks, our men were more useful in boats than on board ship.

My broad pennant was hoisted on board the Alligator, hospital ship. With the Raleigh’s crew alone we dismantled and cleared the ship even to the ballast. It was something to get lower masts out, and with the assistance of our spars only. The bowsprit was the most difficult. Clearing the holds was disagreeable. After a while the bilge water began to smell. My two pipes of Madeira, fortunately double-cased, were not affected. After the ship’s stores we looked out for ourselves. Chronometers, etc., were removed to my cabin, under sentry’s charge—from there, with a trustworthy crew of five men and a coxswain, to the Alligator. Later, my steward, no more trusty man in the ship except my coxswain, Spurrier, came to me with sad face to state that Lord Gilford’s pet chronometer watch, which was kept and used with those of the Government, was missing! Search was made in vain, poor White offering £10 reward.

Those princely merchants, Dent and Co., as well as Mathieson, kept open house. They lived in palaces. I had apartments at the Dents’ bungalow at Hong Kong as well as rooms at Macao—passenger steamers running daily. On a late occasion the Chinese passengers had risen, took possession, murdered the Europeans. A ship’s captain, Cleverly by name, as well as by nature, jumped overboard. He was badly wounded while swimming, but was picked up and had rooms at Dent’s Macao house. I need not say that after this Chinese passengers were accommodated in an iron cage, where they enjoyed their opium.

Lieutenants Prince Victor and Johnson, who had gone with Hoste in Spartan from Singapore to visit Rajah Brooke at Sarawak, rejoined us.

The dockyard at Hong Kong full of Raleigh’s stores, guns, anchors, cables, shot, etc.—sails spread out to dry.

Excellent dinner at French Minister’s. Madame Bourboulon charming. Smokes regalias only.

Renewed acquaintance with pretty Mrs. Endicott and Mrs. Parkes.

Mail arrived. Ministers beaten on China question. Parliament to be dissolved: nevertheless, Plenipo and troops coming out. Inspection held on my Raleigh. My boys, Victor Montagu and Harry Stephenson, on shore.

Macao, May 1.

Letter from Turnour’s brother asking me to break to that good-hearted fellow the death of his father. Went on board in Gibb’s yacht, the Zouave. Dined with him.

Hope my Raleigh will be got up. Doubts whether Admiral will attempt it.

Met Admiral and large party at dinner at Dent’s. Judge Hulm fine old fellow.

Gilford and I to dine with Pereira and William Dent. Excellent dinner and everything to match.

Business with my worthy chief about Calcutta; transferred youngsters to that ship.

Great and good feed at friend Cane’s, now Lieutenant-Governor. Dinner to meet me. Some six-and-twenty sat down.

Arrival of Highflyer and gunboats. With Admiral in Coromandel to visit vessels in Canton River. Came to near Sybille below second fort.

Went on as far as Macao Fort. Left Raleigh’s band there. All the vessels, as well as their commanders, ready for work. Came to near Niger. Mandarin junks’ masts in sight.

Tenders for raising Raleigh not such as the Admiral could accept. Alas! my poor ship—now to be considered lost; she must be sold where she is, and I to be tried by court-martial!

Laid up the last three days, attended by kind Doctor Anderson.