North China Ports
At Amoy we found the Cormorant, a pretty fast despatch gunboat, Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are many others, but none to be compared to it.
The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the shape of a really active Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail. A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the Cormorant will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau, commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or twelve-ton boats.
French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all Princesses.
Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no proof of aggression.
Inspected Cormorant at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns loaded within three minutes. Noon.—Weighed in Pearl and steamed out, two boilers. An old St. Jean d’Acre, Shearman, chief engineer.
In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of seaweed, even after handling.
The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a basin of water it was almost inanimate.
Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the scenery on the Rhine.
Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several are now loading and two or three are already off—beautiful ships, reminding one of fine old sailing days of Dido, which class of ship they greatly resemble.
On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the Yang-tse-Kiang.
Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we could proceed over the bar.
Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and steamed up to Shanghai.
Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads, carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are here. No saluting on account of close quarters.
Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife, having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock, who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial, or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most efficient scholar and interpreter in China.
A court-martial detained the Pearl and Rattler (in charge of station). Argus also here, attending on the Minister, with a new commander just appointed in Hallowes.
Algerine, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also Acorn, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.
Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit to Peking.
We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site, might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary power.
The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting, three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September. Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal sympathy and regret.
Shifted flag from Rattler on board Manila. At noon sailed, having written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the attaché, Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup.
Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters should be found for our cruisers.
After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them, intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance—the haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.
To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so coveted by Lord de Grey.
Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki. Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was shifted to Pelorus.
On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of six—Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self—and landed where the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks, were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of Omera’s territory.
Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and down a steep flight of stone steps.
Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent specimen of the teredo or borer—the largest I have seen.
On the 26th Salamis arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave. Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon, returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with his life.
4 A.M.—Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country, with—apparently—everything within itself, while the wants of the natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will speedily put an end.
Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look strong and healthy, but eat no meat.
On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off, and the sea without a ripple, the Salamis made light work. As we entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the scent of flowers was wafted off.
Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving, departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a large fishing village.
Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much coquetting,—simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with more time some fine shells might be collected.
4.30.—Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama—water perfectly smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were under their grotesque but picturesque sails.
4.30 A.M.—Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E. Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the morning we had again run into fine weather.
At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes. The French admiral, Rose, in the Guerinere, had saluted my flag as soon as they could well make it out. Perseus returned, Basilisk and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin.
Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We formed a respectable cortège. The Minister with his staff of three, Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders—cocked hats and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited. Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco, saki, pipes and sweetmeats.
Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather; then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.
Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected with the Naval Department.
We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole, through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day the following little event unfortunately occurred:—
The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted spies—now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off, a ridiculous and ignominious retreat.
However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they would have liked the fun.
At sea in the Salamis, Serpent, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock, in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in Basilisk. Our object to meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make, visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the Salamis arrived and took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp.
I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,” a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W. Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me.
We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant variety I never saw equalled.
About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment, Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda.
The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp; one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind.