Daibootz

We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving our ponies, entered a shrubbery by a path which, taking a turn to the left, brought us suddenly, at the distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, not cast, of sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully put together that joints are imperceptible at first from the outside. It is only on going inside that you see how it was riveted, in much the same way as we should (forgive the comparison) a huge boiler. The inside, too, has been desecrated by the usual number of Saxon names.

Several of our military friends, who had previously seen this gigantic statue, advised our not taking our eyes from the ground until close up to it, but that is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it is only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of the whole figure. The rising ground and green foliage at the back add much to the effect, and the best view is that which the people who erected it intended you should have, by the turn given to the path when it first appears in view.

On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, the largest of the hundred in the neighbourhood. It is curious and handsome. The site, too, as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well chosen for its picturesque situation, as well as for the view to be obtained from it. But these temples are the work of men’s hands, and not to be compared with the beautiful scenery through which we afterwards passed on our return home, by another route.

About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, situated on the edge of a circular and nearly land-locked bay of the same name. At one of the clean and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most excellent luncheon, sent early and provided by the messman of the 9th, to which ample justice was done by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a ride home in the cool of the evening.

A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution in the political state of the Japanese and their feelings towards foreigners. We appear to be welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, especially by the lower orders.

The Daimios, who would a few years ago have put their Shogoon to death for entertaining the idea of permitting foreigners to trade, are now quarrelling among themselves as to whose port shall be the first opened to trade. These feudal chiefs are tenacious of their independence, and no longer live with a portion of their family within the precincts of the castle and moat at Yedo, but excuse themselves by stating that troublous times oblige them to keep their retainers with them and ready.

They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing will tend more to sap and explode the whole feudal system than the introduction of the foreigner with our free notions, although differing materially from one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending to undermine a system similar to our ancient feudalism.

The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions on commerce and despotic governments, are the loudest in their call for Free Trade, and were the first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to the foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed by force of arms, will allow herself to be second to none in free intercourse with the Japanese. Holland no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the whole trade; and, unable to compete with other nations in free notions of commerce, is fast retiring from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia seems afraid of contamination with any traders. England, I believe, while she feels the hardship of enforcing our trade on these primitive and would-be exclusive people, is obliged to go with the stream, and as yet enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain ports are open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and others are to be opened in January 1868.

The apple of discord has been thrown among these warlike Daimios, who, finding that their whole strength united can no longer keep out the foreigner, are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. Several of these princes are far more powerful than the Tycoon himself, but the Tycoon is nominally the head of the Government, and each quarrel among the Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at Osaka, ready to put down any single-handed Daimio, some of whom have threatened hostilities, fancying themselves aggrieved in not having been sufficiently consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.

As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, I have seen none of their great men. The French, who, through their Minister, it is said, have got contracts for building docks and clothing the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of money in the country, so much so, that in case of civil war their interest will be to support the Tycoon, and they would persuade him that by a powerful army alone can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent chiefs. Our advice is to get up a respectable navy and make timely concessions. With their splendid harbours, mineral wealth, and vast resources, the Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; while, beyond working artillery for their batteries, their soldiers will only weaken their resources and cut one another’s throats. What different views different people take!

But to return to where the journal places us at sea after leaving Yokohama.

Serpent led the way into Sendai Bay; she having communicated with some native fishermen found no safe entrance into the inner bay of Matsu Sima; so, to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood out again and found our way to the northward of an island, for which, as yet, we have no name, and stood on until we gradually shoaled our water to four fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came to for the night, perfectly secure against any wind.

Weighed at 8.30 and followed the Serpent round Sendai Bay, when I signalled her to pass through an inviting-looking passage formed by the mainland and Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with the beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent civilisation, that we determined on landing, and came to for the night. On the left the hills had been cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, were seen in different directions. On the right was a beautifully wooded island, with herds of deer feeding in the cleared spaces. Guns were immediately got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to get permission from certain houses we saw peeping through the trees.

Our messenger was forestalled by the going on board the Serpent of a priest who informed them that the island was sacred and dedicated to the Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and never killed, and that not so much as a stone was ever permitted to be removed; in fact, that any one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would surely die. He said there was gold among the sand on the east side, but that was guarded by a great serpent. A party went on shore at the invitation of the priests, and while they were inspecting the interior of the temple a fine stag walked in and ate several sheets of white paper from the hands of the strangers. None of the deer are ever killed, nor is one allowed to pick up the antlers they shed, which were seen lying about.

The Commodore and self landed on the opposite shore to inspect the more wild-looking horses. These we found as tame as the deer. They were but ponies, but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing the hills I put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay there were others. The covert was good, but we had neither guns nor dogs.

On returning on board I found the priests, who had ascertained who I was, waiting to receive me. They appeared poor, civil and good-tempered, bringing an offering of small fans, descriptions on paper of their temple and island, also some nasty drink called saki. They seemed to enjoy some champagne! Should there ever be hostilities between us I shall know where to find some good fat venison. We weighed again before midnight and followed the Serpent to the northward.

10.30.—Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, when Serpent led us into as beautiful a haven as can well be imagined. Land high, bold, and wooded on both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, as signalled from Serpent, gradually decreasing from 50 fathoms, but too deep for anchoring for full 3 miles, and it was not until we had made a turn to the westward, and were completely land-locked that we got any soundings with the hand leads. Scenery such as Rio Harbour would be if the blue mountains were brought closer.

We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, close off a considerable fishing village called Yamaba. Natives appeared nervous and cautious at first, but gained confidence when they found the Japanese officers on board the Serpent. A seining party landed on a low sandy island and caught some small but sweet fish; some of them had the peculiarity of not spawning like most fish, but of producing a number of little plump fish like themselves, about 2 inches long, that swam and cut about as if they had never been confined!

On returning on board I found that the head of the village had sent his small present on board of stinking salt fish. The gunning party had shot ducks and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: the natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the game between the months of March and September. Had we given permission, our decks would have been crowded with the villagers from morning till night, but we allowed them on board only occasionally for an hour.

Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly japanned little tub, two parcels of the dried sea-slug or bêche de mer, done up in paper bags on a japanned tray, were brought off by the principal traders of the place. Mr. Aston came from the Serpent to interpret; they smoked their pipes. I gave them a couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne, and wrote my name on their fans; they went away delighted.

Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine swan, and Pusey had killed an animal the doctor pronounced to be a fennec; it was very savage, and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after having been badly wounded; it had a small foxy head, a short brush, and hair long, like some Scotch terriers. He was not sweet!

Leaving the Serpent to sound round this splendid harbour, particularly one of refuge should a vessel be caught in those gales so prevalent on this coast in winter months, at 10 A.M. we cleared from the numerous native boats and steamed out of the harbour. Weather and climate much the same as in our own dear isle at this time of year.

In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly breeze, and that, with a lee set, obliged us to get steam up in the other two boilers. We came to in Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese junks with but few European vessels. There is not much to attract in the town, shops containing nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was immediately formed to start on the morrow for the Lake Cuoma, situated beyond the hills that rise from the plain. On the north side of the harbour, at a distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the sea on the east side was said to be full of salmon and trout.

The European residents were particularly kind in providing us with ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly offered to accompany us. Half a dozen pack ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and a change of clothes; these were to have started some hours in advance, but the usual mistakes were made of not equally dividing the packages, and after landing, beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.

It was a little after noon that our party of seven, in addition to servants, got fairly under weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores of the harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly begins to rise towards the mountains, over which our route lay.

The Commodore and self were properly mounted on the steadiest of the ponies, although mine, “Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk, with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, who had but once before been in a saddle, was on an amorous pony that endeavoured to get at every herd of brood mares, of which there were many feeding on the plain, and at last got into difficulties by meeting two mares and a foal just as they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. A scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean over, while the other two pawed and bit each other savagely.

The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then there was a chevy over the plain to separate the combatants and catch the runaway! As we approached the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and were obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was going to take us and return to the beaten track. The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary ponies scampered along considerably faster than I liked or could help, without a fall, although with frequent slips of a yard or two.

On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which showed like a gap in the mountain, the mist held up and gave us a view of the plain we had traversed, with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, which has not been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, as seen from Spain. On the other side we have a view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the distance smoking.

We had started too late to reach the fishing stream, so pushed on to a tea-house on the north side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here we did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed ourselves, as I fancy only sailors can; at least we do not get enough of this sort of life to make us indifferent to its (to me) many charms!

The next morning we started for another of these comfortable and convenient tea-houses, situated on the shore of Volcano Bay, near the mouth of the Salmon River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some 4 miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, the party who led did not know the intended spot, and continued on until they reached the house at which we intended to rest. This brought the whole party on, when it was ascertained that we were two months too early for salmon, and there was not a trout left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the Serpent.

The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our enjoyment. We were all early in the saddle. Started on our return by 9 A.M., a lovely and refreshing morning with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to the plain on the other side the wind got up and the rain came down as it can in this country. But the comforts of home on board with a warm bath made the rain only another variety in our fun.

We found a French man-of-war, La Place, from Yokohama, probably sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat Garnastai, commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor—two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows.

Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small ivories. A small collection of shells!

After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising fuel not permitting Serpent and Basilisk accompanying us.

As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many years. We found no shelter near the village.

Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven fathoms inside.