The following letter was received by the new firm of Bowers and Brayton in June, 1819.
“Raynham
Messrs Brayton and Bowers
Sir
You may recollect that about a month since, I passed through Swanzey and happened to see you where you was erecting a new Store. You told me that in about a month you should like to purchase some straw braid. I have about 2000 yds. on hand, of a good quality, and can take in a considerable quantity more. If you wish to make a trade with me, be so good as to write me your terms. I had a word or two with a milliner nearly opposite you about some braid (name unknown). If you should not like to trade, be so good as to give him this information.
Yours respectfully
Nehemiah Jones.”
From the letter, we see that Israel and his new partner were building a new store for themselves. Mason kept the old one. (The builder, Gilbert Chace, was paid $160.00 for the building. The cost of the hardware was $8.13). The lumber was bought in Freetown, also the shingles.
Apparently Israel had been planning to engage in merchandizing straw bonnets. Nehemiah Jones of Raynham was a wholesale dealer in straw braid. This is possibly the same local straw that was made into paper.
On July 21, 1819, Jones wrote again.
“Messrs Bowers and Brayton
Sir
Yours of the 13th is received. Respecting the straw braid, I would observe that I must have a part cash if I should trade with you. Cotton goods at fair prices will answer for part pay. I am now making some bonnets for a man that will pay half cash and half goods at wholesale. I am in want of some shirtings, checks, and plaids—perhaps you can furnish me with them and with yarn also. I have the straw braid on hand and wish you to write me immediately whether you can agree on the price of the straw braid, for it would not be worth while for me to be at the trouble of coming to Swanzey unless there is a prospect of our trading.
Yours respectfully
Nehemiah Jones.”
Israel decided to buy a large quantity of braid and place it out in the farmhouses of the villages, where the farm women would sew the braid and shape it into bonnets and then bring back the finished bonnets to Israel and get paid for their work—so much a bonnet—as they were paid for their weaving—so much a yard.
Israel also planned to keep a little straw braid in the store, for customers who might like to make their own bonnets.
The plan went through. Israel found girls who wanted to sew the braid. On July 28, 1819, Jones wrote to Israel again:
“Yours of the 23rd inst. on hand. In answer to which I would observe (as I wrote to you before) that I should like to trade with you providing I can have a part cash. I have been selling my best goods for straw braid and unless I can have about one half cash for the braid, I may as well get my bonnets made here. The cotton goods which you mentioned are such as I am in want of if we can agree as to the cash and the price of the straw and the goods. You wished me to inform you when I would call on you. I think it likely that the last of this week or Monday next will be agreeable to me. I shall bring a few thousand yards of braid with me.
Yours respectfully
Nehemiah Jones.”
They did finally agree about terms. (But there were many more letters.) On August 19, Ardelia Targee took home 422 yards of straw braid to make into bonnets. And she also took 10 knots of cotton thread to sew the straw together. She was to be paid three shillings apiece if the bonnets were well made. On September 22, she returned some bonnets. But on September 17th she had taken another lot of braid, 813 yards, with twelve knots of thread. So it went. Polly Hathaway on Sept. 10, took 1120 yards of the braid. On December 23, 1357 yards more.
September 13, 1819, Patience Luther was added to the list. She took 1066 yards of straw. She was followed by Permelia Allen, Sarah Anthony, Nancy Francis, Betsy Cushing, Clarinda Trafton, Eliza Davis, Almiry Shorey, Nancy Walker, and Hannah Hood. These names all appear in the first Bonnet Book which Israel kept as he kept the Yarn Books. Other names were added in 1820 and later. The industry flourished, though it met with difficulties. No man made these bonnets. And no older women. It was a young woman’s job. Though J. A. Carver “pressed” the bonnets—a man’s job and a hard one.
We know so little about these young bonnet makers—so little even about their work—that it may not be amiss to tell you what the records have preserved about one of the bonnet makers, Sybel Alleyn, who took some straw in 1820 but died before she could get the bonnets finished. As Wheaton Luther was her executor, his papers were kept in the store, and found their way into the barrel where they did not belong. Luther was appointed administrator by the Probate Court in Taunton, and his appointment is in the barrel. It has a great weeping willow at the head of the sheet. Wheaton was expected to charge up his expenses as administrator, to the estate, and he did so. “my time, horse, and expenses at Probate Court, Dighton, $2.00.”
Sybel Alleyn had been quite ill, and Dr. Ebenezer Winslow charged $3.50 for the thirteen visits he had made during that illness. This includes medicines. A cord of wood had been bought for Sybel, from Lloyd Slade, for $5.00. She owed for several purchases from Israel, at the store. There was a bill from David Brown who had rented her a horse and chaise to go to Pawtucket—$3.67. And another horse and carriage to take her to Rehoboth and back, 14 miles—$1.19. And after her death there were more expenses, Abraham Shove made her coffin—$9.00. Ezra Bliss dug her grave, $1.00. The spirits at her funeral cost $2.84. But this came out of the estate expenses. Wheaton Luther bought the spirits at Israel’s store, for it was there he was clerking. And it was there that he received a letter from the poor girl’s heirs. Charles Y. Allen, who signed himself “Your friend and loving servant”, wrote that his wife and one daughter were very sick with fever, and that he could not get help to nurse them without paying for it. He needed, he wrote, “pecuniary aid”. He wanted the estate money at once. “For it is an hour of peculiar trial.”
Obviously the bonnet makers were not poverty stricken people. But I know little about them as I have said. One thing I do know. They shared a distaste for regimentation. They wanted to make bonnets the way they wanted to make bonnets. Israel had trouble.
When a few bonnets were finished and pressed, Israel had the carpenter knock together some boxes in which to pack them. These boxes were loaded onto a Somerset ship to be taken by Captain Gray to New York where he was to sell them if he could. They were a new venture for Israel and he really did not know where to find a market. The bonnets were not selling in Scrabbletown; and they did not sell in New York, he found.
So in the Fall of 1819, Israel decided to expand his market and take his bonnets to the milliners of Albany.
In the late Fall of 1819, leaving Bowers to run the trading at home, Israel took passage on the sloop “Henry”, about to sail for Albany, via New York. The “Henry” had been built in the shipyard at Egypt, and it was commanded by Captain Brown, a Somerset man. Israel paid $9.00 for board and passage.
Besides his boxes of bonnets, and some calico, Israel took along for trading purposes, corn, rye, iron ware, cheeses, and some barrels of Taunton River Shad. As this was the fall of the year, the fish must have been salted or pickled. The bill for carting the shad to the boat was 17 cents. Reaching Albany, Israel wrote to his partner:
“after looking and inquiring among the milliners, I find that Bonnets is dull. Capt. James Sherman thinks there is no doubt that I can sell braid and bonnets in Troy (New York) where I shall go in a few days.” The rest of the letter was eaten by mice. But we know he did go to Troy. Upon returning to Albany he wrote:
“Albany. November, 27, 1819
Mr Wm. Bowers
Sir. I have to inform you that I have done my best to effect a sale of my Straw Hats, but have sold only eight and sold them for —. When I first arrived here, I went to see all the milliners and they gave me grate incouragement of buying the Hats, and one in particular bought six, and a lot of straw. It was evening and she would not take them until morning. I went in the morning. She would not pay me the money, but would in goods. So I did not sell them.
As I wrote you in my first letter, there is a great many straw hats sold in this place and are supplied from New York. I have seen the bills of a grate many hats that was bought in New York about the same quality of mine from 12 to 17 shillings. But they will not give me so much as they will in New York.
I have been to Troy, but cannot sell any.
Mr Gray arrived here last evening and he tells me that he has the same box of hats that we sent by him to N. York. I shall take them with me to New York, and sell them or leave them with a commission merchant to sell.
I have sold 17 barrels of shad at $10.00 per barrel. I have bought about 500 pounds of butter, and some other small notions—we expect to leave this place in three or four days and expect to be to home in the course of 12 or 15 days, wind and weather permitting.
Israel Brayton.”
By the time Israel got back from Albany, the ice was in the river and no cargoes went out from the villages until the spring. On January 18, it was noted that ice extended from the south end of Prudence Island to the Narragansett Shore entirely across the bay.
The enterprising firm of Bowers and Brayton had not been discouraged. Israel merely thought that he was not adapted to the part of travelling salesman. As indeed he wasn’t. William Bowers took over. Late in March in 1820, Bowers engaged passage on the sloop “Henry” and took on board rather a large cargo of bonnets as well as other trading staples from the store. The “Henry” put in at Newport, down the Bay. Bowers wrote to Brayton from Newport.
“April 15, 1820.
Mr Israel Brayton
Dear Sir: I have ranged this market through, respecting Straw Bonnets. Have only sold twenty for $2.25 each, on three months credit. I find bonnets dull here, and people afraid to buy for fear they will not sell this Spring. Those bonnets I have sold, not only sold, but have notes for them. You can be assured that I have disposed of as many as what I thought, whether we get the pay or not; I think it altogether possible that I shall sell four more for the same price before we leave. We shall set sail this afternoon if wind and weather will permit.
I find one great objection to our bonnets, that is the crown. Most of them are too small. Likewise the brim is too narrow. Therefore you must have them made larger in every way without fail. I find that it will be of no use for us to carry on the business unless we attend to it closely. The largest of our bonnets will answer but the larger part of them is too small. I have lost the sale of some on that account or at least cannot get so much for them. Where I carried the bonnets, they would try them on their children’s heads, and finding them too small, would throw them aside and pick for all the largest sizes; which, if the larger ones are picked out, it will render it difficult to sell so many small ones, or at least we shall not get more than a third price for them. This will not answer for us, for we have to give as much for making small ones as large ones. Be very particular about taking in good braid. I would not take any unless good. I think we had better curtail the business a little at present for we have a great many bonnets on hand. And I am afraid we shall find it hard work to sell what we have on hand, for we have a great many bad patterns.
If we curtail the business, we shall be able to attend to it better. We should make about 300 a year; have very new braid; and have the bonnets made very well. Likewise we should realize in the end more profit than if we made a 1000. Therefore if we make bonnets well and finish them off well, and can recommend them, I presume we can find a market for a few. Therefore it stands us in hand to have such bonnets made that we can recommend. If I should carry some of our bonnets to some people they would laugh at us, and what is the reason? Because they are badly manufactured. Let us say we will have good bonnets made and no others. Then we shall be able to get three dollars each and make a profit.
I think we shall be able to sell about 40 bonnets in this place about the 10th of May. The patterns that sell best is the ones that turn up behind. I trust you will now make such ones. Tell Mrs. Bowers now that I am well and hoping she is the same. Give my respects to your wife, Hannah, and all enquiring friends.
You told me that Captain Brown lives well. O, my God, that I was not so particular. I have great objections to dirty people. I am scarcely able to eat a mouthful without thinking how it is cooked. Be so good as to let my wife read this letter.
Your obediant and
Humble Servant
William Bowers.”
In Newport, Bowers sold 6 bonnets to Margaret Landers; 6 bonnets to Elizabeth Champlin; and 6 bonnets to Elizabeth Townsend. These were the milliners of the town.
On reaching Albany, William Bowers wrote another long letter to Israel.
“April 18th, 1820
Mr Israel Brayton
Sir:
I regret to inform you that the debt you contracted with Mrs. Ring is entirely lost. She has sold all the Bonnets you left with her to sell on commission. I think she is a notorious Character for she had five bonnets unsold and she would not give them up. I have made out to get in ribbons of her about eight dollars worth. I have settled with her and have taken her note for the Balance which I am fearful we shall never obtain. The pay for the balance due us is $110.00 so I suppose we shall be able to get part of our pay in—tape and buckram, and if you think it is best to take it in that, wright her word and direct your letter to New York, and if you think it not worth while to wright but leave it altogether to my judgment, let that be it. If you wright, I should like to know your opinion whether I shall lay out what money I have or bring it home.
I assure you goods is very low of all kinds and still falling every day. Accordingly you will be very careful how you buy for I assure you goods will fall on our hands if you buy many. The sales of our bonnets in New York was very bad. I sold only 2 and was in hopes business was better up the River and concluded to try it. Since our arrival to Albany I have sold only 9 for $2.00 each, cash. I think I shall be able to sell a few more tomorrow. We shall go to Troy. Then I shall be able to sell a few more. If I should not be able to sell out—if you wright, wright word whether it will be best to bring them home or leave them with Talbot to sell on commission. I would sell all our bonnets before this time, if I would sell on credit. But I am afraid of another Ring Scrape.
Inform Mrs. Bowers of my wrighting and tell her I long to get home for I never was so homesick before. But I presume it is all oweing to having such a likely woman for a wife, but at least it would give me grate satisfaction to set in the corner and chat a while with her. I have not enjoyed one single moment since I left home. How is the little boy? I presume he is well and if so, take good care to keep him so.
The manner of living aboard of a vessell is so different from what I have been used to living, it takes my appetite all away. I long to get home to fill up with something that I can relish. Give my respects to all enquiring friends and tell them I am well but want to get home. Hoping that these lines will find Mrs. Bowers well and all enquiring friends; as to the straw business, I think we had better curtail in a small manner and dont take any braid only that which is very nice. I have lost the sale of a grate many on account of poor braid and badly put together. The business must be carried on with care and attention. I shall be home about the first of May if nothing happens. It is very late in the evening therefore I must quit writing.
Yours respectfully
William Bowers”
“I have almost forgot about your shad. I found them in New York at a place where they would never be sold and I concluded you would be glad to sell them and have taken them with me but have not sold them yet. Shad is worth almost $2.00. Be so good as to let Mrs. Bowers have this letter. Take good care of the Pig.
W. Bowers”
“What bonnets you have made, must be made to turn up behind, all of them, for the others will not sell. The fashion is now for bonnets to have their turn up behind and round corners in place of square corners where the ribbon comes down to tie under the chin.”
In the Fall of 1820, when the bonnets had rather piled up on Israel, and there was a good deal of cloth on hand, the partners decided to make another venture. William Bowers took passage on the same sloop “Henry” of Somerset, and sailed down to Savannah, Georgia, where he opened a “stand” or small store and spent the winter trying to sell the bonnets and the shad and the cotton cloth he had brought South. The sloop “Henry” did not intend to return to Somerset before Spring. You could not sail small sloops through the icy waters of the North Atlantic and up the ice bound channel of the Taunton River in mid-winter, not safely. The newspapers of the period are full of accounts of shipwrecks—especially off Block Island. And some of the too adventurous little ships just disappeared. Bowers expected to find other winter bound ships and ship captains from Somerset in harbours along the southern coast. And he did.
Captain David Pierce was in Charleston. He had written to Israel as follows:
“Sir,
I take this opportunity to inform you that I am enjoying good health at present and all the rest of our Yankey friends, and am in hopes that you and your friends are enjoying the same blessing.
Captain Gibbs is here, well and hearty. Give my compliments to my parents and to the proprietors of the Stone Cutters’ Bank and likewise the new bank set up since I left there, by the females. I expect it will go by the name of the Weavers’ Bank. I am in hopes they will be able to hire me seven cents when I return.
Give my compliments to all that take the trouble to enquire after me. Tell Ruth Wilcox that I am afraid her old beau, Anthony Marion, is lost, for he took charge of the schooner “Jane” and came out over Georgetown Bar the first of January, to come out and come in here, the same day; and that night we had a heavy gale of wind and he has not been heard of since.—The weather is very cool and windy. Rains two days out of three. Times is very dull here. Produce very low. I wish you would answer this letter the first opportunity. You must excuse me for writing in this manner for sailors cant write like Merchants.
Yours
David Pierce.”
In Fayetteville, Captain Benjamin Gibbs was resting after an illness. His health had nearly returned and he expected to go back to Somerset in the Spring. Captain Joseph Gibbs had died down there. It was thought, however, safe for the rest of the northerners to remain through the winter as no return of the sickness was expected until August or September. Capt. McDonald was intending to stick it out.
Of course Bowers must have written to Brayton as soon as he arrived, but the first the barrel knows of his arrival is through a letter he sent to Hezekiah Anthony. Hezekiah wrote to Israel:
“I have received a letter from William Bowers (in Savannah) who requested me to say to you that if you was going to send him any more brown shirtings he wished you to send them immediately. If they were of good quality and full 3/4 wide he would give you 12 cents a yard or he would sell them on commission for you together with the bonnets if you send some that was new and of good pattern and good quality, he had no doubt but what they will do well.
As there is a vessel to sail in a few days, what you conclude to send, you had better have them here in the course of a week from this time. The shirtings, if you send any, he says you must see that they hold out in length.
Your friend
H. Anthony”
“N.B. Your goods I have just sent by water to be landed at the Ferry”.
Bowers’ letter to Brayton, finally arrived.
“Savannah, Feb. 24, 1821
Mr Israel Brayton
Dear Sir
I received the case of bonnets shipt by Capt. Hezekiah Anthony some time since, and since I have received them I have sold 10—of the High Crowns. The low crowned ones will not suit this market. But I think it more than probable I shall be able to get rid of what you have sent. Therefore if you will send me 2 cases more, immediately, I think I can sell them to a pretty good advantage. The ten I have sold will average about $2.75 and if you conclude to send anymore you must have them very nice. Different patterns and some to turn up behind.
Perhaps you will be able to get the proceeds in about three months, as if nothing happens I think you will see a person that way about my size. But if you think you can do any better with the bonnets than to entrust them to my care, it stands you in hand to do it.
If you have any cotton goods on hand that you wish to send on commission, I shall be happy to receive them and do the best I can for you. But if the shirtings will bring 14 cents in Boston, you had better send them there. As Mr. Anthony wrote me sometime since, you observed that your shirting would bring 14 cents in Boston and if so it is more than you will realize if you send them here after deducting the expenses. But I have my doubts whether they are worth 14 cents in Boston, and did at the time I received the letter.
Old Friend, Mr. Brayton, if you will allow me the expression, what shall I say to you about the City of Savannah and the Trade. In the first place, the City is a low sunken Hole and all the cookery is carried on by Black People and they are a dirty and nasty sett to speak plain upon the subject. The victuals very often go against my stomach as I am pretty particular about my victuals you know. I shall come home “thin as a hatchet” as the old saying is. In the next place, Trade is pretty good, if you can get hold of the right end of it, and have a good stand.
In the next place, the expenses—shop rent is $140.00 per year. Taxes is enourmous and to meet the expenses you must do pretty good business or you had better go to David Jones’ Locker. As to Trade, week days and Sundays is all alike. We sell and keep open Sundays as well as week days. Business was never known so dull in this City before. I suppose it is owing to the fire last season and, what was worse than that, the sickness thinned off a great many, but there is a grate deal of building going on at the present and I presume business will be better another season. Mr. Brayton, many has been the tears I have shed since I have been in this city, on acct. of sickness. My nearest neighbor was taken away but a few days since and I assure you it is very sickley and who knows but it will be my turn next. But I hope to see my dear family once more before that solemn day appears. I have got to be quite contented and when I shall return it will be very uncertain. I conduce that I shall save myself this season.
Yours with the utmost esteem.
William Bowers.
Please to send word to my wife that I am well and I have wrote to her this day and have sent it to Mr. Anthony and she will receive it soon after you receive this, and send word to my mother and family that I am well and all my friends and likewise I wish to see them soon.”
On the outside of this letter these words appear:
“John Cotton arrived with a load of cows here after I sealed this letter.”
Another letter found in the barrel might be inserted here. It is rather more businesslike.
“Darien (Georgia) March 19th, 1821.
Mr Israel Brayton
Sir, I must confess I have been negligent in not writing you but for the most part have been very much confined in business. Your notes were due before this. I have sent word to William Bowers in Savannah to make arrangements with you for me to pay him in Savannah what I am owing you.—
We have made a small shipment of rice and sundries, and expect to ship a lot of cotton in a few weeks. No doubt but you have heard of my entering business with my brother since I arrived here, which I did not expect when I left home.
You will be so good as to write me an answer by return mail. You will direct your letter to Allen Smith, Postmaster, Darien, Georgia. As he has been appointed postmaster of this city.
Give my respects to all enquiring friends. Your factory goods sold well—but bonnets.—In haste I remain your friend etc.
Daniel Smith”
Captain Pierce, whose letter to Israel has just been quoted, wrote to Wheaton Luther from Charleston on April 18, 1821.
“It is with pleasure that this day I have an opportunity of reading a letter from your honour.—it is very healthy here but times is bad—and dull—I am now aloading with cotton and a little rice and shall have a deck load of yankeys and if nothing happens I shall sail for New York the 25th of this month and then I will come on and see what you are about—our lumber is all sold, all our yankey friends are well; give my respects to my parents and all my girls and tell them I am coming.
David Pierce”
David was apparently not interested in straw bonnets. But his sister made them for Israel.
In 1828, Israel received a letter written in Troy, (Fall River), by John S. Cotton. He is the man who took a deck load of cows to Savannah from Somerset in 1821. He writes:
“I have received some money for a judgment against the man who sold your bonnets—viz—from N. Carolina. N.B. This is all the money I have yet received from N. Carolina.”
The bonnet story, complicated and peculiar, goes on and on.
How long Nehemiah Jones traded in Straw Braid, how long the farm women made bonnets, I do not know. The Bonnet trade continued to be a minor but specific part of Israel’s trading, as long as he did any trading at all.
When a child, back in the nineteenth century, I remember there was a milliner in Somerset who sold bonnets made of braided straw of a natural straw color. I went with my mother when she bought one—trimmed with the most lovely deep brown velvet ribbon—spotted with white.
I have it still. It ties under the chin.