Under the viceroyalty, when the Audiencia of Charcas represented the authority of Spain throughout the greater part of South America, and occupied a position hardly second in power to that of the viceroy, the capital of Alto Peru, then called Chuquisaca, now Sucre, was the centre of culture and fashion for the whole territory comprised in the present republics of Bolivia, Paraguay, and Argentina. Imagination can easily picture the little court of the Audiencia, and mentally place in its charming circle the ladies who gave prestige to its social functions. From the stately old palaces with their carved doorways, they look out to-day; for the same type of beauty may be seen in the capital now as then, a few of the same wonderful palaces remain, and the owner is as queenly, as beautiful, and as charming as she could possibly have been a century ago. It is always the ladies of the court, the Cabinet, the diplomatic corps, who stretch the silken cord of harmony across the gap between political and social life and give to the state its ornamental feature, without which it would present a cold and unattractive spectacle. The Court of Saint James, the White House, the Escurial, are names which call to mind, with more pleasure and fascination than their chief purpose inspires in most of us, a vision of gay throngs in silks and laces and jewels, with Cupid in the midst and proud Jupiter benignly looking on. A gallant young minister of state remarked recently to the wife of a colleague: “Ah, madam, the Cabinet is only a necessary evil; the ladies of the Cabinet are its indispensable blessing!” Life at the capitals would often be a dreary routine were it not for the gracious hostesses of the administration, who inspire by their sympathy, and give a charming note of gayety to leisure hours with their brilliant balls, receptions, and other entertainments.

In Bolivia the president and his ministers are nearly all young men; and although the president’s wife enjoys the matronly prestige which a house full of beautiful children gives, she still looks but little over twenty. Possessing a gentle dignity of manner and the rare charm of an exquisitely modulated voice, it is a pleasure to be in her company and to listen to her genial conversation. The executive mansion is thronged on her day of reception, as everyone loves and esteems the Señora Presidenta. The poor and unfortunate adore her for her numerous benefactions and for her kindly interest in their troubles and needs. The home of the president was recently plunged into mourning by the death of his eldest daughter, a singularly beautiful and attractive young lady, universally admired for her winsome disposition and the extraordinary loveliness of her character. The entire nation manifested its grief with demonstrations of profound sympathy.

Señora de Pando, the wife of the ex-president, and Señora de Villazón, the first vice-president’s wife, while representing distinctly different types of Bolivian beauty, are both remarkably handsome women. Señora de Pando, who is now in Europe, is a stately figure, the grande dame whom painters love to put on canvas; like her illustrious husband, she is greatly esteemed and beloved by the Bolivian people. Señora de Villazón is of the pure Spanish-American type, combining Old World ideals of beauty and grace with a blithe spirit which is altogether American and shows nothing of the melancholy temperament so often characteristic of the Spaniards. Señora de Abecia, the wife of the second vice-president, who, as well as Señora de Villazón, is a resident of Sucre, is one of the most charming social leaders at the capital. Sucre is among the most European of South American cities in its social life and customs, several of its representative families having lived a long time abroad, while a great many of the younger generation finished their education in French or English schools. This influence of the Old World is noticeable in the best circles of society, and especially among its more conservative leaders. Señora de Abecia is distinguished for her gentle refinement and culture; and when she receives in company with her daughter, they might easily be mistaken for sisters.

Whether or not the climate and the philosophical contentment which pervades Bolivian life be responsible, the years seem to pass with no more than a graceful bow to the favored ladies of this country. The wife of the foreign minister, Señora de Pinilla, impresses one as being remarkably young when she presents her grown son, several inches taller than herself, who, by the way, has just distinguished himself and brought honor to his country as the only American who has ever carried away the highest honors, ahead of European students, at one of the first schools of Belgium. A daughter, now of the “sweet girl graduate” period, and several younger children make life merry in this most attractive household. Señora de Pinilla has genius as a social leader, and she entertains with liberal hospitality, possessing many of the gifts of mind and heart which were characteristic of her illustrious father, Señor Don José Rosendo Gutierrez, and which made him so generally beloved. Señora de Capriles, the wife of the minister of government, spends much of her time at the easel, and the results of her study of art are seen in several beautiful pictures which adorn her handsome home. The opportunity for studying art is limited in Bolivia; and though the country has produced many good artists, the circumstances have never been quite favorable to a development of this talent, so few teachers being available. Señora de Capriles has evidently received instruction abroad, as her work shows the influence of European schools.

The Señoras de Montes, de Pinilla, and de Capriles live in La Paz, which is at present the seat of government. Señora de Saracho, the wife of the minister of justice and instruction, has her home in the city of Potosí, far from the centre of official life, under the shadow of the famous mountain which poured so much silver into the lap of Spain in colonial days, and which is still supplying rich metals to the markets of the world. In a picturesque old palacio,—everything old in Potosí is picturesque,—on one of the sloping hills of the “Imperial Town,” Señora de Saracho lives the ideal home life, welcoming with true courtesy and kindliness the visitor to that interesting city, and charming everyone who meets her by her sweet graciousness and unaffected goodness. Whenever it is possible for the minister to get away from the arduous duties of his office, he leaves at once for Potosí, where he takes his holiday with his beloved family and among his precious books. Señora del Castillo, whose husband is finance minister, lives in La Paz. She belongs to a very old and aristocratic family and is one of the most popular of the Cabinet ladies. In company with her clever husband, she holds charming receptions, and entertains a host of friends with delightful hospitality.

There has never been a time in the history of the republic when the name of Ballivian has not been prominent in social as well as political affairs, and the present head of the family inherits the best characteristics of his noble race. His home is the centre of intellectual and social life in La Paz, and Señora de Ballivian, with clever sons and lovely daughters to assist her, entertains sumptuously. The salon of this gracious hostess is a feature of the social season. Her tertulias are more than evening receptions; they are marked by a reunion of the best talent, and there is often music, singing, the discussion of interesting topics of varied character,—indeed, everything that gives a salon its charm. As Señor Ballivian speaks many languages fluently, and as Señora Ballivian and her children are similarly gifted, foreign visitors to La Paz are especially happy to be invited to these “at homes,” which are always enjoyable.

The customs of good society are more or less the same in all lands, and the popular methods of entertainment vary little in any country from those of all others. Climate and circumstances may influence the social routine in a moderate degree, but even these are less taken into account than may be generally supposed. When a foreigner arrives in La Paz for the first time, and the altitude of over twelve thousand feet makes breathing difficult to him, to say nothing of the effort required to climb the streets of the city which are nearly all at a considerable angle toward the perpendicular, his first impression is likely to be: “It is impossible to go about and enjoy life when the mere effort of breathing tires one!” but a short residence serves to cure most people of the soroche, as this mountain sickness is called, and in the social functions which mark the summer season, none of the guests are more constantly in evidence than the foreigner, who promenades, dances, and banquets with the greatest apparent enjoyment. Long horseback rides into the country around La Paz constitute a favorite form of amusement, and coaching parties, automobile outings, or picnics by train to Tiahuanaco and Lake Titicaca are frequently arranged. Life may be passed very agreeably in the City of Peace, and as the government officials, with few exceptions, and the entire diplomatic corps, reside there, society is represented in its most attractive features. While La Paz has the prestige which the residence of the executive and the diplomatic corps gives it, Sucre is the centre of the social world as represented in some of the wealthiest and most aristocratic families of the republic. Cochabamba, the garden city, is the home of many of Bolivia’s intellectual leaders, artists, poets, and other great men, and it is the centre around which are grouped the great estates of several of the most prominent landowners. Potosí rests a good deal on the laurels won in colonial days, when it was a city of fabulous wealth and fanciful legends, though its society is charming and cultured; Oruro is called the “Gringo city,” so many foreigners having made it their home, contributing to give it something of a cosmopolitan character. Social life in Santa Cruz is simple, but frank and cordial, and the generous hospitality of its people is proverbial. The bustle and whirl of a strenuous existence do not disturb the serenity of any Bolivian city. La Paz leisurely takes its coffee between nine and ten in the morning, and by five o’clock in the evening the day’s work is done, as it should be. What more barbarous than the mad rush and scrimmage that characterize the life of the average modern city from daybreak until dark! Humanity seems to be caught on a wheel of progress, which, the faster it turns in its onward course, the more recklessly it grinds the unfortunate victim. It is to be hoped that future generations will evolve a more comfortable system, and, if it must be rapid, let it be a less tragic process. The proprietress of a silkworm industry in Cochabamba complained recently that it was impossible to get help to tend the cocoons at night as no one would work all night, no matter how well paid. Perhaps this state of affairs indicates an indifference to opportunities for bettering one’s condition in life and a too easy contentment, but there is, after all, something refreshing in the contemplation of an entire community able to take its rest undisturbed in the night hours. Isn’t it a glimpse of the “simple life” so much lauded by the latter-day philosophers? The happiness and well-being of Bolivian society do not depend upon the regularity of a suburban train service, upon the attractions of the theatrical season, or upon any of the well-known public amusements which have become essential to the enjoyment of leisure in the big centres of the Old and the New World. At the same time, the chief cities have their theatres, one of the best being the Teatro Municipal of La Paz, which was built under the administration of General José Ballivian and opened to the public in 1845. It has a seating capacity for about a thousand spectators, divided into parquet, first and second balconies, and a third gallery, which is called the gallinero, or hencoop, occupied by the miscellaneous crowd familiarly called gallery gods in English and American theatres.

Outdoor sports and pastimes are popular, and there are several clubs under whose management races and horse shows are held. The cancha, or race track, of La Paz, situated in the suburb Sopocachi, is used not only for the races, but for various other fiestas, and upon many occasions entertainments are held there in the interests of charity. A feature of social life found in all Spanish-American countries is the promenade in the plaza, which is as attractive in the Bolivian cities as elsewhere. La Paz, Sucre, Cochabamba, Potosí, Oruro, and Santa Cruz have their large public squares, ornamented with trees and flowers, and having paved walks all around for the promenade. A band of music plays in the evening two or three times a week, and society puts on its gala dress and spends an hour or two in the plaza, the young ladies walking in one direction and the young men in the opposite, so that there is a constant meeting of “dark eyes” that “look love to eyes which speak again.” Under the marvellously clear light of the moon as it shines over La Paz, the effect of the brilliant throng is particularly pleasing and picturesque. Bolivians like to enjoy the beauties of nature, and live a great deal out of doors. Many take their annual outing in a trip by coach to the wonderful health resorts of the Yungas, to far-famed Sorata, or to the thermal springs in the neighborhood of La Paz, Cochabamba, Sucre, and Potosí. It is quite a popular custom for society to go to the seashore during a part of the year, and the ports of Mollendo, Arica, and Antofagasta are favorite resorts. With the completion of the new railway from La Paz to Arica, the trip can be made in a few hours by fast train, so that the popularity of that beautiful little coast city may be expected to grow rapidly, not only as a commercial port, but as a fashionable bathing resort. Many rich families of the principal cities have homes in the country also, where they spend a few months every year. The valleys around La Paz, Sucre, and Cochabamba are dotted with prosperous-looking haciendas, and there are several really magnificent estates. A favorite outing for La Paz people is a drive or horseback ride along the road to Obrajes; and delightful picnic parties are held in the picturesque little park of the town of Obrajes, which overlooks some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. La Paz itself being at too great an altitude to permit of luxurious vegetation, it is a treat to find, within a few hours’ ride, all the charm of green fields and shady groves. The suburban homes of La Paz are many of them very attractive, and pretty chalets look out from the hillsides all around.

In the city itself some of the handsomest houses are old palaces of the time of the viceroyalty, which, in spite of the necessity for modernizing their interiors to provide for twentieth-century comfort, still possess that charm of solidity and individuality of design which makes them easily recognizable from the dwellings of recent construction. Their spacious drawing rooms are particularly adapted to the entertainment of large parties, and one can imagine that an additional touch of romance is given to the gayeties of a ballroom about which cling traditions of brilliant social events celebrated a century ago. If walls could speak, what tales of chivalry and beauty we might hear regarding those days when splendid festivities were held to honor the arrival of a noble representative of the court of Spain, or to welcome some illustrious envoy of Rome! Society entertains with less pomp and pageantry in these republican days; but romance knows no epoch, and the old walls, if they could speak, could still repeat pretty compliments exchanged “when hearts are young and faces fair.” Bridge parties and five o’clock teas are among the more modern entertainments of La Paz society. Several of the foreign legations are presided over by bachelors, conspicuously those of the United States and Germany, though the Hon. W. B. Sorsby, the American minister, and Baron von Brück, the German minister, are both excellent hosts, and their legations are frequently the scene of charming reunions of La Paz society. From reasons of climate, the annual exodus to the country is less marked in La Paz than in other cities. Many families remain in their town houses all the year round, as there is but little difference in the temperature, except that in the winter months of May, June, and July it is less agreeable than during the rest of the year, because of heavy rains. When the La Paz people seek a change, it is usually a change of altitude that is needed, as a few find that the rarefied atmosphere produces a tension of the nerves.

The same is true of Potosí, those who require a change frequently making a trip to Sucre, which is between three and four thousand feet lower than Potosí. The marvellous thermal springs around Potosí, at Miraflores, Yocalla, and Don Diego, attract large numbers of invalids. The air of La Paz and Potosí is, naturally, pure and healthful, and is especially recommended for those who suffer from asthma, many remarkable cures having been effected at Potosí, where the conditions are particularly favorable. It is sometimes said that the great fortunes made in Potosí are spent in Sucre, the more agreeable climate of the latter city making it a very desirable place of residence. Numbers of wealthy people live in Sucre, some of whom divide their time between Paris and that city, while others find life most enjoyable in the country, on their haciendas.

Ex-President Don Aniceto Arce, who lived several years in Paris in great luxury, with a large household, entertaining almost constantly with lavish hospitality, is enjoying the later years of his busy life in Sucre, and principally at his beautiful country estate, which covers many leagues in the same province. The Alvarez place, near Yotála, a few miles out of Sucre, is an ideal country home, with gardens, fountains, and a great marble bathing pool; and in the suburbs of the city the principality of Glorieta, the Guereo estate, Florida, and other handsome properties, testify to the delightful character of social life amid surroundings which apparently leave nothing to be desired. Under the auspices of the principal clubs in each city, balls and banquets are given from time to time, which are celebrated with the éclat usual to such functions the world over. At a ball recently given by the Union Club of Sucre, at least three-fourths of the ladies wore gowns imported from Paris. The dancing differed little from the conventional standard in all countries, except that the opening quadrille was the stately quadrilla imperial, inherited from colonial days, when the Audiencia of Charcas gave to its entertainments the grandeur and formality of court functions. In preserving this tradition of the past, the society of Sucre retains a very picturesque and beautiful custom. There is no capital in South America of which the society is more aristocratic, refined, and cultured than that of Sucre. In the homes of its rich people are to be found rare objets d’art, of which the great marvel is that they were transported to their destination across leagues of country in ox-carts or on muleback without damage. Great French mirrors, reaching from floor to ceiling, adorn the drawing rooms; crystal candelabra, hardly to be duplicated in any market to-day, hang from the ceilings; rare old tapestries and fine paintings deck the walls; and in cabinets of exquisite design are to be seen collections of miniatures, snuffboxes, and other heirlooms of great value. In some cases these treasures have been in the possession of the family for several generations. Señor Don Arturo Urriolagoitia, a connoisseur and collector of rare antiquities, has wonderfully carved pieces of old furniture of colonial times, fine tapestries, silver and gold ornaments of Inca manufacture, and a collection of very old coins, among them the celebrated Roman coin bearing on its face the head of Christ, about which so much discussion arose a short time ago, though Señor Urriolagoitia had his coin long before the famous “discovery.”

Sucre and Cochabamba are located at equal distances from the railroad line between Oruro and Antofagasta, and upon the completion of the proposed railway system they will both be directly connected with it. At present it requires from two to five days by coach or muleback to reach the railway from either point; so that social life in Cochabamba, as well as in Sucre, is undisturbed by continued changes. Cochabamba families who trace their origin as far back as the conquest represent the stability of social forms and ceremonies; and although the old-time “pomp and circumstance” of colonial days has given place to a republican simplicity, there is still the same pride of race and dignity of character that distinguished the upper classes of this city in its earliest history. The climate is ideal, and the city occupies a magnificent location under the shelter of the white-crowned mountain of Tunari. The ladies of Cochabamba are often spoken of as hijas de Tunari, “daughters of Tunari,” and they are proud of the pretty title. The automobile has invaded Cochabamba, as it has other Bolivian cities, and auto-parties are popular forms of amusement. Garden parties are frequent, and the morning horseback ride is among the features of the social routine. At Cala-Cala, a picturesque suburb, visitors are shown the “Lovers’ Tree”; and, from the well-worn path that leads to it, the shade of its ample branches, and the romantic seclusion of the spot, one judges that the dear old friend of youth and beauty has not lived in vain nor has the title been a misnomer.

Much of the Bolivian lady’s time is devoted to charity. Like all her South American sisters, she is attentive to the duties of her church and the various benevolent institutions which it sustains. According to the national constitution, the municipalities are charged with the care of charitable institutions, the government making provision for their maintenance; but in addition to the establishments provided for by the state, many others have been organized by humanitarian and benevolent societies in every department, whose members devote themselves with charity and patriotism to the duty of relieving the sufferings of the poor and the invalid. In nearly all cases, the management of these hospitals and asylums is in charge of the Sisters of Charity, under the supervision of a board of directors chosen to represent the society. In times of famine or epidemic, which have occurred in consequence of failures of the crops in the interior districts, the benevolent societies take it upon themselves to assist the government in ministering to the relief of the stricken communities. Poverty, in the extreme condition in which it is encountered in the overcrowded cities of Europe and North America, is practically unknown in Bolivia. As it exists, it is generally the result of indolence or improvidence, and often arises from absolute indifference to comfort or the most ordinary requirements of well-being. The Indian is, in this respect, the most serious charge of the state, as his habits are those of the simple child of Nature who gives no thought for to-morrow, and is satisfied so long as his handful of parched corn and his drink of chicha are forthcoming for the day. When these fail by reason of sickness or old age, which forbid his earning them, he becomes an object of charity, and depends upon the patron or some benevolent society for the necessaries of life. Many of the rich landowners have quite an army of old retainers who live on their bounty, and nearly all persons of wealth contribute to charities. The Prince and Princess de Glorieta maintain an orphans’ asylum out of their private fortune, and visitors to Sucre are surprised to find at Glorieta a private institution so well attended and thoroughly equipped with a good staff of teachers. The girls are taught plain sewing, dressmaking, and kindred domestic work, and the boys carpentry, shoemaking, tailoring, and other customary trades of men. The asylum has a band of music well drilled, composed of all the boys belonging to the institution. This band paid a delicate compliment recently to two appreciative North American visitors by rendering The Star-spangled Banner, which they played remarkably well.

There are in Bolivia more than twenty hospitals, each of which receives a subsidy from the government. In nearly all of these the attendants are Sisters of Charity, and the ladies of various charitable societies are frequent donors. In La Paz the hospitals Landaeta, Loayza, and the Lazareto are among the most important, and they are in charge of the Santa Ana Sisters of Charity. The Hospital Landaeta, for men, was the first founded in La Paz, in 1555, under the direction and government of the Cabildo, or Municipal Council. In 1629 it was given over to the Brotherhood of Saint John, and in 1664 was rebuilt; among the contributors to its improvement and endowment was Señor Don Martin Landaeta by whose name it is now known. It has a medical and a surgical department; a dispensary for oculist work, a pharmacy, and a hall for autopsies. The Loayza Hospital was founded in 1803 by General José Ramon de Loayza, and in 1884 a charitable lady of La Paz, Señora Sanjinés Uriarte, ordered additions to be built to it at her own cost. The budget for hospital service has doubled in less than twenty years, showing the increased recognition of the demands of such an institution. In Sucre especial attention has been paid to the hygienic conditions of the hospitals and asylums, which are eminently creditable to the city; the Hospital of Santa Barbara and the Asylum 25 de Mayo are particularly well installed and attended. The only insane asylum in the republic is the Manicomio Pacheco, of Sucre, so called in honor of its illustrious founder, General Gregorio Pacheco, who presented it to the nation on October 10, 1884. It is built in modern style, and its various salas are commodious and well ventilated. It was constructed at an outlay of one hundred and twenty-one thousand seven hundred and eighty bolivianos, not including the cost of the site. By a law passed in 1885 the national Congress accepted this munificent gift of the philanthropic patriot and declared the establishment to be of national character, assigning to it a subsidy from the treasury of the republic. In Cochabamba the Hospital Viedma takes care of all patients sent to it. The Asylum of the Buen Pastor, in La Paz, and similar institutions in other cities are designed to provide for the helpless and the infirm of all ages. The Buen Pastor, “Asylum of the Good Shepherd,” was founded out of funds bequeathed for the purpose by the charitable Señoras Felipa Cordero and Tadea Guachalla, who left a large fortune to be disposed of in this way. The noble object of this asylum is to gather into the fold unfortunate women who have stepped aside from the path of virtue, and endeavor to save them from further vice and crime. It seeks also to give instruction to women, for which purpose a girls’ college has been attached to the institution for boarding and day pupils. The Orphans’ Home of La Paz is another notable charity which has accomplished much good, under the direction of the nuns of Saint Vincent de Paul. The boys’ quarters include a refectory, school, tailor shop, printing office, and shoemaking and carpentering departments, comprising the entire ground floor, with a spacious playground; the girls have laundry rooms, bakery, kitchen, sewing room, and embroidery frames. The annual cost of this institution is about fifty thousand bolivianos, and the officials and inmates number about three hundred. Contributions have been made to this worthy charity by many of the best-known people of Bolivian society, among them the benevolent Señora Modesta Sanjinés Uriarte, who spent her life in deeds of kindness to humanity, and left a legacy for their continuance after her death.

In Cochabamba the sentiment of love for humanity has inspired many benevolent efforts on the part of ladies of wealth, and the poor and suffering are generally cared for with great kindness. In the provinces of the Yungas, notably in Coroico, Chulumani, and Achacachi, and in the city of Sorata, hospitals have been founded. Oruro has two hospitals, of which one is exclusively for the miners; Tarija also has two, the San Juan de Dios and the Lazareto; Potosí, Tupiza, Colquechaca, Pulacayo, Santa Cruz, and the Beni—all have hospitals. In addition to these, the government maintains offices of hygiene and bacteriology in the principal cities; and every effort is made to aid the cause of charity by removing the unsanitary conditions which are so often responsible for sickness, and consequent distress and want, among the very poor. Indeed, it is practically useless to attempt the amelioration of existing evils which owe their origin to disease and poverty without first improving the surroundings of the suffering and unfortunate. With this object in view, the charitable people of Bolivia are considering the importance of building better asylums for the sick and the infirm; and in some cities, as in Cochabamba, the young ladies especially are taking a more active interest than ever before in establishing charitable institutions. The demand for charity is greater some years than others; and when, as within a comparatively recent period, severe droughts in the agricultural districts have brought distress in their train, the richer classes have frequently been called upon to aid the government in relieving the dire situation. Charitable entertainments are sometimes held for the purpose of raising funds for benevolent enterprises, and wealthy people contribute largely to the various church societies organized especially to take charge of their less fortunate fellow creatures.

The first duty of society is to its fellow man; and the more devoted the social world shows itself to the cause of the weak and the helpless, the more beautiful is the national character. In spending much time and money for benevolent purposes the ladies of Bolivia prove themselves worthy of all admiration, and render still more attractive their many graces of mind and person by adding to these the incomparable charm of a kind heart and a willing helpfulness.