Having secure possession of the colony of Essequibo and Demarara, a division of our armament has been detached to the attack of the adjoining settlement of Berbische, which separates us from Surinam.
The whole of the coast not being yet cleared of its wild woods, no regular road is established between the two colonies, although Demarara and Berbische lie contiguous to each other: hence this, like most of our expeditions, is exposed to all the uncertainties of the wind and the ocean. The troops were embarked on board small sloops and schooners, calculated for the shallow waters of this muddy coast; and it is expected that they will reach Berbische to-morrow evening, or the following morning, the distance between the two great rivers, which give names to the colonies, being but little more than twenty leagues.
We are taught that it will not be possible to procure fresh animal provisions in these colonies, in the quantity necessary for the army; but it is suggested that we may obtain a supply from the Spaniards, who have great numbers of wild cattle, in the island of Trinidad, and upon the neighbouring coast of Oronoko. Vegetables and fruits we find, here, in great plenty. The market, as at Barbadoes, is held on Sunday, and is supplied by means of what the negroes either grow, or steal.
Being anxious to provide for the sick, in the best way that was in my power, I became, on Sunday last, quite a forestaller of the market. It will, perhaps, surprise you to learn that among our purchases I bought a hamper of pines, nearly as heavy as a negro could carry, for the small sum of three bits. On counting them over, I found that I had seventeen large pines for fifteen-pence, being somewhat less than a penny each.
On our arrival in the town of Stabroek, we met with an infuriated citizen-republican in one of the inhabitants, whose rash and jacobinical zeal outran all the bounds of discretion. He not only avowed, but sought to inculcate the most violent revolutionary principles; and although he had much cause of distress, from domestic affliction, he could not resist the pleasure of grossly abusing the “English aristocrats,” and indulging in loud political declamation! His wife had died the evening the Dutch garrison surrendered; but the colony becoming subject to the “monarchical English,” was deeper grief to this modern republican, than the loss of his wife. Religion, and even its forms seem to be, here, dispensed with, for they have neither a place of worship, nor of interment. Citizen M— followed his poor unlamented wife to the fields, and there consigned her to a hole in the earth, uttering his grief in loud curses against ... the aristocrats!
A few days since I had an opportunity of dining in company with several of the planters of this colony, who have estates upon the seacoast; and I could not but remark a striking difference between these gentlemen, and those who reside constantly in Stabroek, or in Bridge-town; compared to whom they would seem the more robust inhabitants of a temperate climate. Both in countenance and in general stamina, they are very unlike the sallow-looking subjects of the towns. To find any of the colonists with such strong and healthy frames, was particularly satisfactory to me, having been impressed with a contrary expectation, from the discouraging reports I had heard regarding these settlements.
From all that I had collected upon the subject, I understood it to be a generally received opinion at Barbadoes, and the neighbouring islands, that the climate upon the coast of Guiana was, singularly, unhealthy: but the appearance of the gentlemen alluded to is sufficient to rescue it from a prejudice so unwarranted.
I have made a visit to a coffee plantation, near the town, where I saw an extensive display of the luxuriancy of the soil of Guiana. This estate differs from the wide fields upon the coast, only in being a flat surface of coffee, instead of cotton; but it is rendered rich and inviting, from being traversed with green walks, shaded with fine rows of trees, whose loaded branches bend under the various species of tropical fruits, serving, at the same time, to delight the eye, regale the olfactories, and refresh the palate. A pleasant path, more than a mile in length, and of sufficient width for carriages, leads down the middle of the estate, the sides being decorated with mangoes, oranges, avagata-pears, and many other kinds of fruit.
Crossing this walk, near the centre, is a thick grove of many hundreds of orange-trees, clad in all the variety of umbrageous foliage, fragrant blossoms, unripe green and ripe golden fruit.
In the genial climate of Europe, how delightful would be fields or gardens thus planted, and how exquisitely enjoyed! But, here, under the scorchings of a torrid sun, while the eye, and the olfactories, and the palate are gratified, the tortured sense of feeling precludes every possibility of comfort. If exposed to the open sun, the excess of heat produces insupportable languor and fatigue; and if we seek the protecting shade of the fruit-trees, we are, there, plagued with the sharp bitings of myriads of musquitoes.
Invited by the grateful odour, and taking advantage of the cool shade, I left the broad and heated path, to ramble in the sweet avenues of the orange grove, but, ere my foot had traced its second step in the soft grass, I was beset by thousands of these tormenting insects, and compelled to make a hasty retreat.
In my escape I experienced more courteous fare; for, upon turning from the shaded path, a very fine mulatto woman of the house, seeing me walking, and observing me to be a stranger, came out, with a plate of the sweetest oranges of the grove, and, inviting me to eat, with much gracefulness and urbanity, bade me welcome.
Presently afterwards I met a robust negro carrying a heavy basket of fruit upon his head, and, asking him how they disposed of the immense numbers of oranges growing upon the estate, he replied “Gib ’em to de neighbours, Massa.” Availing myself of this information, I wrote to Mynheer Meertens, the attorney of the estate, and have obtained permission to gather basketsful of oranges for the sick soldiers, whenever I please.
I should feel it an unworthy omission not to give you a copy of Mynheer Meertens’ obliging note to the manager, after reading my request. It was as follows: “Monsr. Keller, à l’habitation Vlessingen, aura la bonté de procurer, de tems en tems, pour les militaires qui sont malades, les fruits tels qu’ils s’y trouvent. Il obligera son très humble serviteur,”
During the few days, since our arrival here, events and circumstances have occurred, as if they had been designed expressly to place before us what was likely to be most striking to Europeans. Already we have witnessed the humiliating, but very interesting sight of a cargo of several hundreds of human subjects being landed from a slave-ship, and exposed to public sale; and on the other hand, naked beings, who range in the utmost freedom of human nature, have presented themselves in crowds to our observation; parties of copper-coloured Indians, from the wild woods, having come down the river in their canoes to visit the town. It has also happened to me to be addressed by a wretched slave, strongly intreating me to purchase her from her master; and I have further witnessed with surprise, the more than apathy, perhaps I might say, the exultation of a white lady, on hearing the cries of a negro suffering under the whip. Likewise the honor has been done me of having a young slave placed by my elbow at dinner-time, with a fragrant bough to defend me from the flies; and I have been complimented with a negro to sleep at my bed-room door, in order to be in readiness, in case I should require him to beat off the musquitoes, or to bring me any thing in the night.
It proves that we are here just in time to witness the setting in of the rainy season; it having announced itself by the falling of rapid showers almost every morning since our landing: and, amidst all the novelties of this moment, I must not forget to add, that I now experience the tormenting sensation of having my whole skin thickly beset with prickly heat.
We find that the Western code of hospitality, so prominent at Barbadoes, is not confined to that island. It extends equally to the coast of South America. The planters, whom I have had the pleasure to meet at Stabroek, have invited me, in the most cordial manner, to their several homes, offering me every accommodation at their plantations in the country, whenever I may find time to visit them.
I should tell you that the unhappy slave, who came to me to intreat that I would purchase her, was a very decent young woman, here termed a “house-wench.” The hardships and ill treatment she had suffered, had created, she said, such an entire dislike to her present home, that if she could find no “good Massa” who would buy her, she had determined to try to escape from her misery by running away. The poor creature shuddered as she mentioned this expedient, sensible that if she should be retaken, her sufferings, great as they were, would be sadly multiplied. Still she declared she was firmly resolved to hazard the attempt, rather than continue her, now, wretched life, hopeless of relief.
The heavy tear swelled on her dark cheek as she related the severities to which she had been subjected. Her tale was at once interesting and distressful. It needed not the aid of eloquence to move compassion. The simple narration of the cruelties imposed, and the punishments inflicted for only trivial faults, instantly roused the feelings, and in strong appeal begat a new regret that hosts of human creatures, for the mere lucre of a few of their fellow-beings, differing in the colour of their skin, should be degraded to a situation, which not only deprives them of the command of their persons, but, also, robs them of all the powers of will.
Divested of every right, a slave has no redress, not even against the bitterest wrongs: however oppressed, however injured, he has no resource—no means of relief! Not having the power of changing his home, he has no escape from ill usage or cruelty; but is condemned to travel the long journey of life in hopeless discontent.
The corporal punishment of slaves is so common, that instead of exciting the repugnant sensations, felt by Europeans on first witnessing it, scarcely does it produce, in the breasts of those accustomed to the West Indies, even the slightest glow of compassion. The lady I have above alluded to appears of good natural disposition, and in no degree disposed to general cruelty; but the frequency of the sight has rendered her callous to its usual influence upon the feelings. Being one morning at her house, while sitting in conversation, we suddenly heard the loud cries of a negro smarting under the whip. Mrs. —— expressed surprise on observing me shudder at his shrieks, and you will believe that I was in utter astonishment to find her treat his sufferings as matter of amusement. It proved that the punishment proceeded from the arm of the lady’s husband, and fell upon one of her own slaves! Can you believe that on learning this, she exclaimed with a broad smile, “Aha! it will do him good! a little wholesome flagellation will refresh him: it will sober him: it will open his skin, and make him alert. If Y— was to give it them all, it would be of service to them!”
I could not compliment the lady upon her humanity. The loud clang of the whip continued, and the poor imploring negro as loudly cried, “Oh Massa, Massa,—God a’mighty—God bless you, Massa! I beg you pardon! Oh! Massa, Oh! I beg you pardon! Oh! God—a’mighty—God bless you!”—Still the whip sounded aloud, and still the lady cried “Ay, it is very necessary!”
Such is the effect of habit in subduing even our most amiable emotions. Could this lady have known how much her remarks deformed her, policy would have led, no doubt, to a different expression, although humanity had not taught, nor custom allowed her to possess a better sentiment!
What would you say were you to see me return home rich as a West India planter? Sanguine whisper fondly augments the value of our captured property to upwards of £200,000! We hear of various ships, of extensive stores, of large estates, and of whole gangs of slaves, all public property, to be confiscated for the benefit of the captors; and from my being here, in the direction of a department, I am told, that I ought to calculate upon receiving a sum by no means despicable. My expectations, however, do not run very high, being aware of the close meltings, which such kind of property usually undergoes, before it becomes sufficiently refined for the pockets of the claimants[7].