The Loo is a plantation belonging to Mr. Haslin. The slaves were employed four hours in rowing to this estate from the Sand-hill. At the time we arrived, the manager was from home: but, nevertheless, we took possession of the mansion, spread the cloth, and, placing our ham and the other provisions of the boat upon table, sat down without ceremony to supper. On his return the manager unexpectedly found, in his chamber, a party of seven, seated round the social board; and in our suite were no less than fifteen slaves, making together a body of twenty-two persons, who with provisions, hammocks, and baggage, nearly filled the house so as to prevent its master from entering: but, like a true colonist of the country, and unlike the repulsive lord of the Sand-hill, this gentleman hailed us with cordial greetings, expressed himself happy to see the whole party, and even apologized for, what he was pleased to term, his misfortune, in not being at home to welcome our arrival. Immediately all the best things of the larder were added to our supper, and our bountiful host further intreated us to suspend our appetites, and allow him to dress fowls, eggs, and all he could prepare, to improve the meal. In short, his conduct was consistent with the prevailing urbanity of the colony, and in the generous attentions of the Loo we forgot the arid and inhospitable Sand-hill. The evening passed away very pleasantly, and our hammocks were conveniently slung for the night. Early in the morning we resumed our seats in the boat. Coffee was served to us at the time of rising, and we set off, without delay, to prosecute our journey to “the Falls.”
The mercury in the thermometer was this morning at 72, being five degrees higher than at the same hour of the preceding day, at the more elevated situation of the Sand-hill.
After rowing for about three hours and a half up the river, we felt some calls of appetite, and finding ourselves near to a plantation, we, in the true marooning spirit, went on shore in search of breakfast. Our reception was friendly, and we were welcomed with much civility by the manager, whom we found to be a petit-maître, whose fondness for the decoration of his person was very conspicuous, and afforded us some diversion. An Adonis in the woods was a great novelty; and, notwithstanding his politeness and liberality towards us, we could not but smile at the gaiety of his apparel, particularly the depth of his frills and ruffles, which, full-flowing at his wrists and bosom, almost enveloped his meager person. Amidst the undressed Africans, and the still more naked Indians, about his home, he of course was unrivalled, and possessed the superlative gratification of standing alone, the rara avis of the forest.
But to the honor of this solitary beau, his foibles in no degree interrupted his better feelings. He was correctly au fait with respect to the hospitable attentions due to strangers; and he entertained us with the utmost cordiality. Nor did he confine himself barely to receiving and accommodating us with civility, but, further, expressed much regret that we were come for so short a visit, and urgently invited us to prolong our stay. At breakfast he provided us with a high feast, by giving us some hot rolls and fresh butter, together with a dish of fine oranges and other fruits.
After pursuing our journey about three hours further up the river, we came to the cottage of a wood-cutter, where we met with a very active and intelligent negro woman, who welcomed us to her master’s home, and adding a laba pepper-pot to our boat-provisions, quickly set before us a very neat and plentiful dinner.
We afterwards made a visit to a mulatto man, named John Hill, an eccentric character, well known to the gentlemen of the colony; and who had here built himself a small house, in which he was settled as a free inhabitant, living in a sort of independence upon the wood-cutter’s estate.
In the course of our walk, I had the opportunity of observing a species of negro-labour that was new to me; having met a party of sixteen naked slaves, male and female, in the act of dragging the trunk of an immense tree out of the forest, with ropes. They were conducted by a driver with his whip: and pulled on the load by mere strength of arm, having no assistance from any machinery, and only availing themselves of the simple expedient of placing small billets of wood under the tree, at short distances from each other, in order to prevent it from sinking into the dirt, and doubling their toil.
Finding that it would be a long and fatiguing journey, to make the whole of the distance, from the wood-cutter’s to Mr. Mutz’s, the Post-holder’s, on the morrow, and learning that there was a tolerable building on the way, where we might hang up our hammocks for the night, we rowed two or three hours further in the evening, borrowing an old negro woman to take with us as a guide, lest, in the approaching darkness, we might pass the hut without observing it.
The scenery sensibly improved, as we advanced up the river. During this day’s journey we saw some lofty, irregular hills, which formed a very pleasing and picturesque variety, and relieved the dull uniformity of smooth water, and flat woods, so peculiar to this coast.
About eight o’clock we arrived at the dwelling which had been pointed out to us as a convenient resting-place for the night. Its exterior was not very inviting, and we found both house and accommodations the most comfortless of all that we met with throughout our expedition. The rooms were small and confined, but neatness happened not to be a predominant passion of the possessor. We felt no inducement to banquet away the night, but took a glass of simple grog, and very soon after our arrival, retired supperless to our hammocks; some in a close unpleasant chamber; the others, like the Bucks, under an open hovel.
We rose with the sun, and, being glad to escape from the house, made the boat our dressing-room; then, according to the Dutch custom, defended our stomachs from the morning damp, by a cup of coffee, and, without further delay, proceeded on our way to Mr. Mutz’s, the remotest European residence in the colony.
In this part of our journey, the whole scenery became strikingly changed, and, after the insipid monotony of flat woods and water, the objects which now presented themselves were so novel and varied, that all around us seemed calculated to excite a strong and peculiar interest. Many of the inhabitants of the forest were moving upon the river in their canoes; some alone, some in families, and some in larger bodies: cottages and Indian huts occasionally opened to our view in the woods: high banks sometimes bordered the river; and, not unfrequently, hills and lofty summits crowned its shores.
From the Bucks, whom we met in their canoes, we purchased a few parrots and Amazonian parroquets, called Keiz-keiz, together with some bows and arrows, war-clubs, and various specimens of Indian implements, and household apparatus; and feeling anxious not to pass, unnoticed, any thing that might afford us gratification, we went on shore to make short visitings at the several huts and cottages which caught our observation in the woods, or upon the banks of the river.
At one of these places of call we found a Dutchman named Hasmond, who had recently taken up his abode in this sequestered part of the colony. Upon our remarking that he had very much the air of an old soldier, we were informed that he had been many years in the army of the Prince of Orange, and having retired from the service, had now built himself a small house, and settled here to seek his fortune, as a wood-cutter.
At another of the cottages we met with an aged Spaniard, named Pezano, perhaps the most eccentric character, and the most remarkable personage of the colony. This man had formed to himself a little cottage-abode, and was living at this secluded home in the woods, the friend and associate, and a kind of chief among the Bucks; although more than sixty years old, he had made his selection from the forests, and had taken, unto himself, no less than four Indian wives; who were handsome, and some youthful, the youngest being only eleven years of age. Thus you find disparity of years, between man and wife, is not peculiar to polished circles, or opulent cities: neither is the spirit of intrigue, for Pezano’s wives are not said to rival the chaste Penelope.
This Spaniard was originally from Oronoko: but he had passed twenty-eight years, as a manager upon different estates in the colonies of Demarara and Essequibo; and had now appropriated to himself an abode amidst the great family of the woods; where, from cultivating the friendship of the Bucks, he induces them to assist him in felling timber to sell to the colonists; by which means, together with the produce of his gun, and the planting of roots, and other culinary vegetables, about his dwelling, he procures a sufficiency of food for the support of himself and his women. In colour Pezano is scarcely fairer than his Indian associates. He is low in stature, of spare habit, and decrepit figure, but is lively and animated, and possesses great energy of mind, with far more of bodily activity, than his figure seems to indicate. Anticipating much of information and amusement from his conversation, we were desirous to have the old Spaniard as our guide, from the Post-holder’s to the Falls, and therefore invited him to accompany us in the boat to Mr. Mutz’s. He expressed a willingness to oblige us: but Pezano might not move in obscurity! He was here a king, and must proceed in state. He would take his leisure, and, attended by his proper retinue, come at another hour. Having obtained his promise, we were satisfied, and, leaving to his choice the mode in which he should travel, we took our departure, and proceeded, without further delay, to Ooest Vriesland, the abode of the Post-holder; where we arrived about three o’clock in the afternoon.
This is the remotest dwelling,—the furthest from the coast and the sea, possessed by Europeans, in the settlement. It forms the link of connexion between the bay natives of the woods, and the white inhabitants of the colony, being established by the latter as a post of communication for the purpose of administering friendly offices, and cultivating an amicable intercourse with the Indians.
A short time after we arrived, Pezano and his suite were descried, paddling up the river, in two loaded canoes. Upon their reaching the landing-place, we discovered that the venerable Spaniard was attended by three of his wives; also by a party of the Bucks, under command of an old Indian, who was appointed their captain, and decorated with a broad laced hat, carrying in his hand, as a further token of distinction, a tall silver-headed staff, with which he preceded his troop in all the stateliness of his office.
Next to king Pezano, the bearer of these insignia felt himself the mightiest prince of the forest, and affected an air of dignity, not less consequential, than is sometimes assumed by greater men, upon being invested with a wand, or a riband.
The house of the Post-holder is rather small, but arranged with much neatness. It is pleasantly situated upon rising ground, and commands a fine bend of the river, which flows before it in a clear and limpid stream. We found it an interesting and agreeable resting-place. The door was opened to us with a cheerful welcome. Our reception was strictly hospitable, and we were entertained with a liberality as unbounded, as it was unaffected.
From Mr. Mutz we learned that, by making a long day of the morrow, we might complete our journey to “the Falls,” and return to his house in the evening. This was pleasant as unexpected intelligence; for beyond the Post-holder’s dwelt neither European nor colonist: nor was there any place of call whatsoever. The forest was possessed only by its wild inhabitants, and for every accommodation, we must depend upon the limited resources of our boat. Relying therefore upon Mr. Mutz to make the necessary arrangements for the remainder of our voyage, we left it to him and Pezano, to plan our proceedings for the following day.
The Post-holder is married to a Dutchwoman, but we had not the pleasure of this lady’s society. She was in ill health, and had been sent into the woods, to the Bucks, to be cured. I could not learn what were the remedies used by the Indians for her relief: but I procured a few specimens of gums, and nuts, employed by these inhabitants of the forest, in their practice of medicine.
Mr. Mutz pleaded the absence of his lady in excuse for treating us with, what he was pleased to term, “such homely fare.” But we could discover no cause of apology whatever, for a general neatness prevailed, and an ample plenty spread the generous board.
We had also the great luxury of pure spring water, clear as crystal. I need not tell you how much more highly this was prized, than if it had been the finest wine. It was the first I had tasted in the colony, and was an uncommon treat to me; for, although I continue to take wine, as a convalescent, water is still my usual drink.
Whilst the dinner was preparing, we amused ourselves, in company with Pezano and a party of Indians, shooting with the bow and arrow. The afternoon passed very delightfully, in hearing the conversation and interesting remarks of the Post-holder, and the old Spaniard. In the evening, we again strung the bow; some of us also enjoyed the pleasure of bathing in the very inviting and pellucid river.
About nine o’clock we went to our hammocks, some in chambers, some in the passages, and some under the house, which was built upon pillars, a considerable height from the ground. It will be seen from this, how little difficulty occurs in lodging large parties of friends or strangers, in a warm climate. Neither extensive buildings, nor a number of rooms, nor even beds, paillasses, or mattresses are required. A few cleets, or iron hooks, fastened up in different parts of the house, for the support of hammocks, are all that necessity demands. From this facility of arrangement for the night, the ceremony of invitation is not always held requisite, and it is often seen that marooning parties, consisting of no inconsiderable numbers, make their visitations unexpectedly, yet find convenient accommodations even in the smallest houses, and the most retired situations.