The next morning we rose at three o’clock to prepare for our last day’s journey up the river. At a little before five we went into the boat, accompanied by Pezano, and attended by a venerable Indian in his canoe. We were six hours and a half rowing to the falls. On the way we saw, within the woods at the sides of the river, several houses of the Indians, some of which we visited; but we met fewer of the Bucks moving in their canoes, than we had seen the preceding day. In one of the houses we found Mrs. Mutz, the wife of the Post-holder, lying in a hammock suspended over a fire, according to the Indian mode of sleeping.

This part of the country was diversified with hills; some of which were more lofty than any we had passed in the course of the river, and at one spot we observed, for the first time upon the coast of Guiana, a naked rock of stone, hanging in huge form, over the edge of the water. It being the only mass of the kind, I might almost say the only stone, that I had seen in the colony, I took away a piece as a specimen of the mineralogy of the country.

At half past eleven o’clock, we arrived at what are called the falls—a term which had conveyed to my expectation the idea of a cascade, perhaps something like the falls of Schaffhausen, or the great body of the river pouring down from a vast height in one immense column, forming an example of very grand, or highly picturesque scenery: but you will judge of my disappointment, when you are informed that instead of a second Niagara, these falls were merely the shallow water, gently rippling in broken stream, over some irregular rocks of whinstone, which here crossed the river from side to side, and that they more resembled the running of an ordinary brook, than the rushing torrent of a loud-roaring cascade. Nothing could be more tame and unimpressive. We were able to row in the boat up to the very rocks, and even to step upon them, in the middle of the current that was passing over them, without wetting our shoe-tops. In no part were the falls two feet in height. The Indians are in the habit of carrying their canoes over them, and proceeding in their course up the river: or, in the rainy season, when the stream is more rapid, they make a path in the bordering woods, and carry their canoes through the forest, until they have passed the falls, and then resume their voyage upon the water.

After inspecting all that we wished to see, and breaking off some specimens of the rock which caused the falls, we took our dinners in the boat, and concluded our expedition up the river by marking its date, together with each of our names, upon a piece of paper, which we inclosed in a glass bottle, and having corked it securely, left it fastened up in one of the trees, upon the bank of the river.

I wish it were possible to convey to you a just idea of the joy and happiness expressed by the negroes, upon putting about the boat to return. From rowing a heavy load always against the current, and sometimes against the tide, together with feeling no interest in the voyage, nor in any way comprehending the object of it, the journey, to them, had been very fatiguing, and they were totally at a loss to conjecture why we should have undertaken it. Each seemed to say by his looks, “What have ye journeyed hither to see?” and one of them even ventured to ask, “For what Massa come so far?” when on being informed that it was to see the country, and the river, he exclaimed, “Country, where country? River, wa’ river?” then, all of them uttering a loud, and most significant laugh, they plied their oars with redoubled vigour, to conduct us back towards the sea. At the very turning of the boat all sense of fatigue was banished, and with unurged exertion they rowed Us to the Post-holder’s within three hours and a half; notwithstanding a considerable delay, produced by our going on shore to ascend one of the hills at the side of the water, which we conjectured to be about 200 feet above the level of the river.

We remarked that upon this hill the woods did not appear so thick and crowded as they are commonly found to be upon the lower lands, nearer the sea; but the trees were of stronger growth, and formed pillars of uncommonly majestic stature, being, both in height and diameter, immense. Towards the bottom, they throw out several flattened projections, which, making so many parts of the trunk, stand round it, like the supporting buttresses of an old cathedral, and form, between them, deep recesses, into which it would be possible to retire for concealment, or for protection, against the heaviest storms of rain; and in some instances ten or twelve persons might find shelter between these projections, within the superficies of a single tree.

We arrived at Mr. Mutz’s between six and seven o’clock, just as it was growing dark, and found a plentiful supper, prepared by the bounteous Post-holder, for our refreshment.

The society of Mr. Mutz and Pezano afforded us another very pleasant evening, and I could gladly have sat until morning listening to their anecdotes and observations; but, at an hour, which to me seemed early, as indeed any hour would, under such circumstances, we retired to our sleeping-births, placed as on the preceding night.

At six o’clock we again left our hammocks, when, from the chilliness of the air, all the party complained of cold, and on placing the thermometer at the outside of the door, the mercury fell to 66; which was one degree below what it had been at the same hour at the Sand-hill, and as low as I had seen it, in any situation, upon this coast.

Having effected the leading objects of our excursion, it only remained to us to return with all speed, and exchange the wild scenery of rocks, hills, and lofty forests, for the muddy coast, and flat fields of sugar and cotton. Accordingly we made our acknowledgments to Pezano and the Post-holder, and, as soon as we had breakfasted, took our seats in the boat to proceed down the river. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the wood-cutter’s, where we had been so hospitably received by the intelligent black woman of the house. Unluckily the master was again absent, but we were liberally entertained, as before, by his kind Wowski and Mr. John Hill, the mulatto, who very quickly added to our boat-supply a pepper-pot, some cassada, and such other provisions as the situation afforded.

Hill had been into the woods in the morning, and killed a fine laba, which, immediately upon our arrival, was scalded to remove its coat, and within a few minutes it was cut in pieces, and put into the kettle with cassada juice, pods of red pepper, and various vegetables, for the purpose of being stewed into a most excellent pepper-pot, which in a little time was placed on the table.

The negroes took their meal of rice, and after giving them sufficient rest to fit them for their further toil, we proceeded upon our journey, purposing to sleep at the Loo; but it grew late before we reached this estate, and the tide being for some time against us, it was a day of severe labour to the slaves, yet they supported it with great cheerfulness; and, in their willing exertions, evinced the high satisfaction they felt on returning towards the coast and the town. Exclusive of delays and stoppages we were fourteen hours on the water. Towards the end of the journey we felt extremely anxious on account of the fatigue of the negroes; but upon one of the gentlemen saying that “surely the Loo must have run away,” they replied with animation, “Neber mind Massa, if he run to de Sand-hill, we catch him dere:”—the Sand-hill was sixteen or seventeen miles further down the river.

The evening was peculiarly still. A dampness hung over the water, and although the thermometer fell only to 74, the air felt chilly; but the moon shone bright, and upon the whole it was pleasant; we felt glad, therefore, of the opportunity of making a tranquil moonlight journey, upon the silent river, amidst these wild and endless woods. At one spot we heard the sound of paddles upon the water, and on listening to it, found that a canoe was pursuing us. Presently it came up with us, and we were accosted by some negroes, who had been despatched by the proprietor of an estate which we had passed, to invite us to return and spend the evening at his house. At this moment we thought ourselves nearer to the Loo than we really were, and declined the invitation: but afterwards, on account of the slaves, we were sorry that we had not accepted it. It was half past ten o’clock when we arrived at the Loo, and all the family were in bed; but they quickly roused from their repose, and, in a short time, a supper of grilled chickens, and various other dishes was set before us. At midnight we very willingly sought our hammocks, having suffered nearly as much fatigue from sitting still so many hours, as the negroes had experienced from the labour of pulling the oars.

The next morning all the party had their ears and noses actually pinched with cold, and on observing the thermometer, we found that it had fallen to 65¾, being ¼ of a degree lower than at the Post-holder’s. Some of the gentlemen even complained that they had been kept awake in the night, from the severity of the cold, which was a very unusual occurrence, and such as I had not before witnessed in this climate.

Coffee was served to us at the hour of rising, and we afterwards sat down to a most copious breakfast, consisting of cassada-bread, ham, fresh butter, roasted potatoes, plantains, tea, coffee, &c. &c.

We embarked at the earliest moment of the tide, in order to make a long day, and, if possible, to reach an estate called the Garden of Eden at night; which with great toil we did effect at half past ten o’clock: the whole day being spent afloat. About dinner-time we found ourselves opposite the Sand-hill, but, recollecting our former unwelcome reception, we contented ourselves with resting upon our oars, in the middle of the river, to take our dinner of bread and cheese, and cold ham, without going on shore.

This day was even more severe for the negroes, than the day preceding, but they still laboured with great willingness, being impatient to reach the town, besides knowing that, upon the way, there was no other convenient resting-place for the night, and that from being longer absent than we had expected, we were all anxious to arrive at Stabroek as speedily as possible. But, however willing the exertions of the slaves, strong signs of fatigue were evinced, long before we came to the Garden of Eden; and it was only by great encouragement, and a well-devised stratagem, that we were prevented from being detained all night on the water. Observing that they rowed with languor, and that we made but little progress, the cockswain was desired to exchange the helm for an oar, and to enliven his comrades with a song, encouraging them to join in chorus, and to pull together in musical time. This operated with magic effect. Every slave seemed to be inspired, and forgetting all sense of weariness, they laboured with renovated spirit. We were not more pleased with the result of the expedient, than amused by the ready ingenuity with which our wizard cockswain composed his appropriate song, and gave it all the effect of enchantment. Resigning the helm to the weakest slave, he placed himself amidst the crew in the centre of the boat, and plying his oar more vigorously than the others, he invented extempore lines for a favorite African tune, finishing each stanza with “gnyaam gnyaam row, gnyaam gnyaam row,” in which all were to join by way of chorus; and we found that “gnyaam gnyaam row” never failed to give additional force to the oar, and consequent head-way to our pinnace.

The names of the slaves, their wives, their food, drink, and all their pleasures were introduced in song, and tuned to the stroke of the oar; likewise the names of each of the party whom they were rowing, their professions, qualities, and occupations, and their several intentions towards the crew, all made a part of this inspiring air, which, however ridiculous in the words and music, in its effect succeeded even to a wonder. The tugging of the oar, the directing of the helm, even the position of the slaves, and the compensation each might expect, as the reward of his toil, were all adroitly included, and “gnyaam gnyaam row” accompanied and invigorated every stretch of the oar. Led on by these persuasive themes, each seemed to emulate the exertions of the all-animating cock swain, and throwing off the heavy marks of fatigue, they conducted us merrily and speedily to “Garden-Eden.”