LETTER XXXVI.

Fort Royal, Martinique, May 16.

Sir Ralph Abercromby having taken up his quarters at Fort Royal, instead of St. Pierre, I have changed my home, in order to avail myself of the opportunity of laying before His Excellency a full statement of the returns, accompts, and general proceedings of the hospital department lately under my direction: and I feel much satisfaction in being able to inform you that the reports which I have presented have been honored with the full approbation of our respected commander in chief, who has confirmed his approval of the services of the branch of the St. Domingo hospital staff, lately stationed in Guiana, by issuing his warrant for all deficiencies of pay and disbursements to be made up to us before we leave Martinique.

As a military position, Fort Royal is much stronger than St. Pierre; but, the town is smaller, less pleasant, built upon flatter ground, and, in point of situation, even less salubrious. Still it is peculiarly convenient as a residence for the commander in chief, on account of the vicinity of the harbour, and the ready communication, which it offers, with the admiral and the fleet. The forts and batteries raised about it, for the defence of the town and the shipping, have been constructed at an immense expenditure of labour and money. They are very formidable, and of imposing aspect; particularly Fort George, which is built upon a high and distinct tumulus, so steep as to be difficult of ascent; and commands the town, the bay, the Carenage, and the other batteries below, while these form the more immediate protection of the shipping.

Such indeed is the strength of the hill on which Fort George is constructed, that, if it were duly garrisoned and provided, it might resist the attack of almost any force that could be brought against it.

The harbour is extensive, and, from the safe anchorage which it affords to a very large fleet, it renders this island particularly important in a time of war.

We came from St. Pierre to Fort Royal in one of the passage-boats of the island, which of all the modes I have yet experienced of journeying by sea, I found to be the least unpleasant. It is a large canoe rowed by three negroes, a fourth sitting at the end and steering with a paddle. A light awning is raised over the sternmost part of the vessel, and the deck is neatly spread with matting, upon which the passenger may sit, or lie down at his ease, and view the rich coast of the island as he passes. Being narrow and very long, this little bark is pulled on with great rapidity, the motion being so slight as scarcely to be felt. Sometimes, when going to leeward, the negroes, in order to save themselves the trouble of rowing, venture to hoist a sail: but this is always dangerous, the canoe, from its lightness, being liable to be upset by any sudden gust of wind, which might proceed from the small bays, or round the points of any of the rocks, at the moment when it should happen to be passing.

The distance, by sea, from St. Pierre to Fort Royal is seventeen or eighteen miles; but the time required for the passage will of course vary according to the state of the wind, and the period of the tide. We performed it in three hours.

There is a nearer way by land, but the road is rugged, and leads across rude and broken hills; the passage-boat is, therefore, the more common conveyance between the two towns.

In addition to the excellent sight of the luxuriant borders of the island afforded us by this little voyage, the beauty and interest of the scene were greatly enhanced by our falling in with the expedition returning from Porto Rico; consisting of about forty sail of ships, standing along the coast, towards Fort Royal harbour. The breeze was light, the water tranquil, and the horizon so clear that we could plainly see every ship; while the fertile shores of the island, the fine bay of Fort Royal, and a wide expanse of ocean were all distinctly before the eye.

Either we have been unfortunate in our quarters at this place, or the accommodations are very inferior to those of St. Pierre; and in proportion as they are worse they are more extravagant. For a bad breakfast the charge is a dollar—for a very poor dinner, at the table d’hôte, two dollars and a half—for supper, two dollars—and for a bed, in a dirty ill-furnished room, a dollar.

The general hospital, or great depôt of the sick, is established at St. Pierre; and is a permanent institution, conveniently adapted to its purpose. It is termed La Charité, and was used by the French, as a colonial hospital, before we took possession of the island, being under the superintendence of Le Père Edouard, an aged French physician, who still resides as a medical practitioner in the town of St. Pierre.

In point of cleanliness, order, and general regulation this hospital does much credit to the Inspector-general, while it holds out a high and parental example to all its detachments. The edifice is handsome and spacious, but its situation is ill-chosen, it being erected close under a hill, with other buildings near to it, more elevated than itself, whereby the free circulation of air is much impeded. Upon a piece of ground, at a short distance in the front, are planted rows of trees, whose cool shade may in some degree compensate the want of breeze, although they combine, with the rude precipices of rock behind, to cast a gloom upon the building, which gives it the solemn aspect of a sepulchre. Adjoining to the hospital are apartments for the officers and attendants, and a large public mess-room, together with other offices and out-buildings, which are necessary to the completion of a permanent, and well-ordered establishment.

Several other places are fitted up, within the town of St. Pierre, as occasional wards, to prevent the necessity of over-crowding La Charité, which, although very spacious, has not been found sufficiently extensive for the accommodation of the immense numbers thrown into it, during the late pressure of sickness. Upon a lofty hill, in a very delightful situation above the town, is established, likewise, a temporary hospital for convalescents; to which those who are recovering are removed from La Charité, not only with the benefit of pure country air, and a cool temperature, but with a further advantage of being separated from the sick and the dying, and placed where their convalescence may be more speedily advanced, by taking gentle exercise upon the hills, amidst a varied and cheerful scenery.

I am happy in being able to inform you that the extreme violence of the fever has subsided at Martinique, as well as upon the coast of Guiana. The seasoning, as it is commonly termed, has been dreadfully severe; and it is our best hope that those, who have had the good fortune to withstand it, have become sufficiently creolised to resist its future attacks. In this island the disease has proved extremely fatal. It assumed the same character as in Guiana, but with even additional malignity. Of the mode of treatment I do not learn any thing very decisive: bleeding and mercury are not in repute at La Charité; but the medical officers have been so little stationary, that no precise method of practice has been regularly pursued. The means employed by one, have not, perhaps, been deemed the most advisable by the next; so that amidst the fluctuating opinions upon the subject, each remedy has had its advocate, and no settled plan of cure has been established.

Great mortality has occurred among the officers of the hospital department. Of ten physicians belonging to the staff of the Charibbee Islands, five have died since the month of February last year. You will perceive from this unhappy fact, that, although it be not the duty of medical officers to march up to the cannon’s mouth, theirs is not a service free from danger.