The whole of May, and the early part of the present month were dry and fine at Martinique; although, last year, at Demarara, we observed that the rainy period set in as early as the middle of April. Here, scarcely any rain fell until the 11th inst. when the clouds poured forth their heavy streams. It is now considered to be the wet season; yet, so slight are the marks of it, between the showers; and so very different was the whole face of the country, in Guiana, during the rains of this part of the year, that, upon comparison, we might still imagine it to be the dry season.
For several months past I have been free from the annoyance of the prickly heat; but, upon this return of the rainy weather, my surface is again covered with it. We have great comfort in perceiving that the insects are fewer here than in Guiana, where the tribes of flying and creeping things constitute as great a plague as formerly in the land of Egypt. The musquitoes, in particular, are far less troublesome than we found them last year. They do not seem to like us so well, nor is the effect of their bitings half so severe. Upon our arrival at Demarara, soon after we came from Europe, these little buzzing tormentors almost devoured us. If we were not well protected against them, during the night, we rose in the morning with our faces so bitten and swollen, that we were scarcely able to see. Now, we sleep upon open beds, without the protection of gauze curtains, or any other defence; and if a chance musquito happen to fix upon us, the wounded part neither inflames nor rises into an itching tumour, as was the case in Guiana.
Perhaps, from this fact, an argument might be adduced in proof of the inflammatory nature of that sad malady of climate, called yellow fever; which, like the musquitoes, assails new-comers in violent and continued attack; but when they have become acclimated, annoys them only in weakened and intermitted seizures. While the European strength and firmness of fibre remain, the bites of musquitoes produce inflammation and painful hardness; but when the frame has become relaxed and enfeebled by long exposure to heat, the same effect does not follow: so of fever—when it afflicts persons recently arrived, and still possessing the rigid fibre, and strong arterial resistance of a milder temperature, it assumes a continued and inflammatory form; but when it invades the languid relaxed creoles, or creolised, a lower degree of diseased action is induced, and the disorder appears under a remittent or an intermittent type.
The eleventh instant was observed at St. Pierre as a day of high religious festival, being what is termed La Fête de Dieu. A splendid procession took place on the occasion, which afforded us a favorable opportunity of witnessing the gaudy parade of Catholic ceremonies. The long and pompous train moved in deep solemnity through the streets, making occasional pauses, for the twofold purpose of giving rest to the attendants, and being viewed by the wondering populace.
A grand altar was raised, in La rue Precipice, at only a short distance from the house where I reside, so that I could observe, from my window, every part of the procession. I noted the order in which it moved, at the moment it was passing before me; and now send you a fair copy, that you may judge of the stateliness and splendour which mark the religious observances of this little island.
The procession moved through the streets in the following order: first appeared
dressed in white cassocks, carrying long rods or staves, richly ornamented, with a picture of the Virgin and child suspended between them. Next came
the one in the middle clad in white, and bearing a silver crucifix; those at the sides, clothed in red, decorated with white crosses, and supporting each a massive candelabrum, in which blazed a huge wax taper. Following these were
in pairs, very beautifully dressed in white and flowers, with white crowns upon their heads, and carrying green boughs. The next were
in red and white flowered tunics, and bearing large tapers. These were followed by
robed in white, with a small silver bell in his hand:
habited as the others, succeeded. Then came
somewhat older than the preceding, neatly dressed in white, their brows encircled with garlands of flowers, each bearing a large taper decorated with flowers. Next to these was
under arms, followed by
with music playing. Behind the band were
and
in white robes, ornamented with flowered crosses, and carrying large tapers. After these came
of venerable years, in similar but more splendid attire, also bearing large tapers. To these succeeded
very superbly dressed, carrying baskets of flowers.
From this point the line of procession was supported by a file of colonial troops, under arms. The first between the military lines, and following the twelve pairs of females, were
handsomely clad in white, each bearing a silver censer, smoking with incense, and suspended by a long silver chain, to the length of which the censers being simultaneously thrown at intervals, in an elevated direction, clouded the air with perfume. The next were
carrying silver vessels of different shapes, enclosing incense. To these succeeded other
each bearing, like the former, a silver censer. Next to these followed
supporting sable plumes, waving on staves adorned with flowers. Behind these came
and
immediately preceding
covering a coffin, which was the great and interesting object of the procession. Consequently the canopy was most conspicuous in the costliness and splendour of its decorations. It was formed of crimson velvet, bordered with gold, supported by four pillars, richly gilt and ornamented, at each corner, with plumes of white feathers. In the front of it was painted a wide-expanded eye, as a type to signify the omniscience and omnipresence of the Deity, who sees, rules, and governs over all. Within the canopy were
in splendid copes, each reading a small book, which rested, together with their hands, upon
placed also under the canopy, directly before them.
were the bearers of the canopy, four of them supporting it alternately at the corners. Immediately behind it was
clothed in black; and, following these,
under arms, who closed the procession.
A great multitude of people, men, women, and children, of various hues and ages (but mostly coloured females), thronged after in a deep train, pressing close upon the soldiers, and quite filling the streets.
The altar was enriched with profuse decorations of silks, ribands, flowers, silver vessels, trinkets, and burning tapers. It was also decked out with flags, and other species of drapery, and covered with a magnificent awning. The streets had likewise assumed the gay costume of the procession, being enlivened at various parts with ensigns, streamers, and many-coloured ornaments; and the appearance of cool and verdant avenues was ingeniously conveyed, by dressing the fronts of the houses with green boughs.
The part of the procession which preceded the canopy, passed under the awning, and advanced beyond it; but when the hallowed equipage reached the spot where the altar was raised, a sudden pause ensued, the band ceased to play, and a few words were shouted aloud by the old negro, which the priests echoed, in soul-inspiring sounds, from the steps of the altar.
Presently was heard a tinkling of the little silver bell. This acted like enchantment. Instantly a dead silence prevailed; and all the persons forming the procession, together with the multitudes who followed it, fell on their knees, upon the bare street. A solemn stillness continued, until the sound of the bell was renewed; when the crowd as suddenly rose from the ground; the boys, bearing the censers, cast them out, to the extremities of their chains, before the altar, perfuming the air with incense; flowers were strewed around; the band again played, and the procession advanced.
As soon as the whole of the train had passed, the altar was disrobed of its ornaments, the houses were deprived of theirs, and the undressed street resumed its every-day appearance.
But, notwithstanding this seeming conclusion of the scene, the parade was continued daily through the different parts of the town, until the end of the week. On the 22d, which was the close of the fête, the procession again appeared in our street, moving much in the same order as before: but the attendant crowd, particularly the female part of it, was even greater than on the preceding occasion; nor do I remember ever to have observed such hosts of women assembled. Not only was the street closely thronged from side to side, but spectators were likewise collected in every by-lane and avenue, and all the windows were filled with multitudes, pressing forward to catch a farewell view.
Taking a walk in the evening, I met with several new and decorative marks of the fête. In one of the streets was erected, with great taste and ingenuity, a green arbour or alcove, very beautifully formed of coco-nut leaves; with various plants and fruits of the climate. The arrangement was rich and elegant, offering a sumptuous and inviting repast, in a delightfully refreshing shade, while it formed one of the greatest ornaments of the festival. Two banana-trees were fixed at the entrance, and appeared as if they were actually growing upon the spot: every part was green, and all the plants were arranged as if they were then vegetating from the earth, each loaded with its appropriate fruit. It seemed as if a choice assemblage of the most delicious productions of the country had been formed into a sweet and cool bower, wherein the superiors engaged in the ceremony might retire from the meridian rays, to take rest and regale themselves: but, upon inquiry, we learned that this grateful assortment was not intended for such gross and carnal purposes—it was designed for more holy uses. It was not to gratify the flesh, nor to pamper the senses: but was collected together, and placed in this seductive manner, in the way of the procession, in order that the fruits might be sanctified by a passing benediction; and rendered doubly sacred in consequence of the ceremony being performed under the omniscient eye of the canopy. Multitudes of persons had contributed towards this hallowed collection, and, after the holy sprinkling had shed its solemn influence upon them, the blessed fruits were removed by their respective owners, and taken home as an inestimable treasure.
How long shall the sanctity of religion be masked with such idle pomp? How long shall such vain parade mock the simplicity of a pure and Christian devotion?