Khartoum — Introduction to the Governor, Latiffe Pacha — His extreme civility — The Regent’s Park Hippopotamus — Europeans settled at Khartoum — Interior of the desert — Collection of curiosities — The Governor of Berber — Bayoumi Effendi, and the School at Khartoum.

The next morning we went on board a crazy boat, and, impelled by a strong north wind, soon crossed to the confluence of the two rivers. The White Nile is not whiter than the Blue Nile is blue, yet there is a difference of colour, and the former has the strongest current and twice the breadth of the other. For three-quarters of a mile, the two rivers can be distinctly traced running side by side. We sailed up, or rather down, the Blue Nile, as near Khartoum it takes a considerable bend. About three miles from the point of junction is the town; in the intermediate space are two villages, and in one of them the people are employed in ship-building.

Khartoum, seen from the river, is a long mud wall, with several houses just peering above it, among which, most conspicuous, is the residence of the Governor, with its offices, the old Government House, and the Catholic Chapel and Mission. We proceeded to the Governor’s offices, through a large open ground, in which two companies of troops, the best dressed and accoutred of any I have seen since I left Europe, were changing guard, each company led by a soldier with a bedstead on his bayonet, he being the officer, and the only one allowed such a luxury, the rest always sleeping on the ground. We next arrived at a court, in which were several brass pieces, and then entered a large room fitted up with Turkish divans and European chairs. This was “the Divan.”

At one end sat Latiffe Pacha, General in the Army, Admiral of the Fleet, and Governor of the Soudan, from Philæ to the furthest possessions of the Pacha of Egypt. He looks like a man capable of being all this and more; as he possesses a fine figure, a good face, set off with a remarkably fair complexion, a beautifully trimmed moustache, and a beard as black as jet. These advantages were assisted by the handsomest Asiatic dress I have seen—a suit of dark blue cloth, richly embroidered, red and gold tunic waistcoat, and full sleeves of pink silk and gold, silk stockings, a magnificent scarf round his waist, tarboosh, diamond star, and several gold chains.

On his right hand sat Ali Bey Hassib, the Governor of Berber, and a few other grandees sat near him, in full costume.

His reception of us was very courteous; for a few minutes he spoke to the Governor of Berber; he then gave his entire attention to us, reading our firman, passport, and letters of introduction. The conversation was in Italian, of which he possesses a limited knowledge; we had, however, been told that he was also familiar with English and French. We inquired where it would be agreeable to him that we should pitch our tents; he answered by presenting us with a capital house. On asking where we could find a boat, he replied that his own would be ready for us in three days. On mentioning camels, he promised to have thirty ready to meet us at Berber. At a hint respecting the forwarding of our letters, he volunteered to send them by a special messenger from station to station on swift dromedaries to Assouan, whence men would run with them on foot to Cairo, and then they would proceed in the usual course. In short, he promised everything we wanted; gave us coffee and pipes, and then we took our leave.

There was a considerable crowd of janissaries, slaves, officers and cavasses, below the step, and the usual mob of officials in the hall; but like the birds, their costume is much brighter in these more southern latitudes; blue and yellow, with white coats and trousers, looked much more gay, I thought, than the sober brown and mulberry colour, I had been used to at Cairo. His Excellency’s confidential pipe-bearer, a Frenchman, who had been in England with Ibrahim Pacha, showed us over the town. He first accompanied us to the house that had been provided for our accommodation: we found it most pleasantly situated among oranges, bananas, and pomegranates, in a garden, on a high bank of the river, next door to the Pacha’s hareem. Then we inspected the diabeheeh—a large three-masted boat, with a small cabin—but, as it was the only vessel here that could boast of a cabin, we were very glad to get it.

Afterwards we strolled into the bazaar, where we heard the Pacha had gone, and found him sitting inside the raised and railed-in floor of the principal shop, which was filled with Manchester goods. A species of court or “tail” attended his Excellency, entirely blocking up the bazaar; but they readily made way for us, partly from some fearful misgivings about our origin, and partly because a somewhat awful-looking personage, clothed in red jacket and boots, and bearing many pistols, made way for us, in a manner not to be resisted.

Having assured the Governor that all he had done for us was taib kateer (very good), we proceeded to the head apothecary here, who entertained us most hospitably; one by one came dropping in all the Europeans of Khartoum, which now comprised a very respectable circle of Frenchmen and Italians, who were extremely civil. By the time we returned to the river, the Pacha’s boat, manned by ten sailors, was waiting to row us home, where we speedily arrived in great style, making comparisons between the Governor and some great people in England, when a stranger appears amongst them,—very much to the advantage of his Excellency. We had some conversation about hippopotami, which may be met with in the neighbourhood. That very popular specimen, which created such a sensation among the fair sex, last season, in the Regent’s Park, was brought up here by hand for six months before it commenced its voyage to England. These animals are at a premium just now, for Mr. Walne, Her Majesty’s Consul, has offered £1,000 for two, and many hundred natives are on the look-out. The hippopotamus is extremely wild, is rarely seen except during the night, and is not to be found in great numbers here.

We were promised prodigious sport, and full of the great thoughts these excited, the next morning we went into the Pacha’s boat up the White Nile. We saw crowds of ducks, geese, ibis, pelicans, and plovers, and four white crocodiles basking in the sun. On our return we found our things being removed into the house, as the Governor would not hear of our making a residence of the boat, and with the assistance he sent us, the place was soon made extremely comfortable. Our house was a good-sized edifice, though constructed of material no more durable than mud. It had been placed in a delightful orange-grove; but the position would have been more admired had it been further off a groaning sakeia, which was too close to it to be agreeable. It consists of a hall, entered by an ascent in the shape of a short staircase; this opens into three large chambers having mud divans and unsheltered windows, affording a refreshing prospect of orange-flowers, pomegranates, and sugar-canes. It was an agreeable contrast to our close tent dwelling in the desert.

We made acquaintance with all the Europeans, as they came to see us. Among them were the apothecary and the head medical officer—an agreeable and handsome man from the neighbourhood of Geneva. Scarcely had they departed when we received a large basket of figs, bananas, pomegranates, and cream-fruit—the last most delicious to the taste, as might be expected from its name. With it came the following letter:

A few minutes afterwards, came Monsieur R——, a particularly quiet, gentlemanlike Frenchman, the friend and partner of the gentleman whom we met in the desert of Dongola. He has been a great traveller, having twice been up as far as 4° N.L. His description of that part of the country was not very inviting; for, after passing twenty days through unwholesome marshes, he seems to have beheld nothing more interesting than a scorbutic and scrofulous population. At 10° N.L. the scene improves. The people are six feet high, beautifully formed, and intensely black. Tigers, lions, cameleopards, wolves, and hippopotami, besides innumerable smaller animals, are to be met with, with very little difficulty; the difficulty, I am inclined to believe, being sometimes to get out of their way. Tons of elephants’ teeth lie about the desert, where these huge animals die, or are killed by the natives for their flesh.

Monsieur R—— thinks that a most advantageous trade could be established by a society of Europeans, by which the price of gum-arabic, ivory, &c., might be considerably diminished in Europe, and Egypt very much benefited. But Latiffe Pacha is narrow-minded, and being himself the most extensive merchant here, he discourages speculation by putting every obstacle in the way of European adventurers.

Another visitor followed Monsieur R——; then came a basket of parsley, lettuce, radishes, pomegranates, lemons, and sugar-canes from the apothecary; and finally, the Pacha’s head man, with a small quantity of milk, and many apologies for the cows not being more productive.

The next morning was passed in paying visits to our obliging friends. We first walked through a garden of vines, oranges, pomegranates, and jessamine trees to the house of the apothecary; in an ante-room we met the doctor and one of the ministers of the Catholic Church. We then entered a large divanned room hung with Napoleon pictures, with its curtained windows looking particularly cool and comfortable. We sat round in solemn conclave, our friends in full Turkish costume, while lemonade gazeuse, coffee, and pipes were handed round, conversing of the climate, the rate of mortality, diseases, and other lively matters too numerous to mention. I ascertained that there is a great mortality in children from three to seventeen years. If they survive that age they live to their appointed time: but at thirty-five they look shrivelled and old; notwithstanding which, however, they manage to exist till eighty or ninety, and further south to a hundred.

We next called on Monsieur R——, in whose yard we saw a young giraffe about nine or ten feet high, and quite tame; and an antelope as large as a donkey, with two horns at least a yard long. Our friend had the best garden in Khartoum, with trellis-covered walks, made of vines, which bear throughout the year. We were received in a large room, with the usual devoirs, and found Monsieur R—— transacting business with several native merchants in their white robes, turbans, and scarves. Afterwards came in a very intelligent Turk, handsomely dressed, and wearing a diamond star round his neck, who spoke French fluently. Like Latiffe Pacha, and many others here, he is in honourable banishment, deprived of the society of his wives and family.

Refreshments having been handed round, our host exhibited his curiosities, such as rhinoceros’ horns, hippopotamus’ teeth, and the various implements of the natives. I admired a pair of tongs and a javelin, made of iron, with such primitive tools as a stone for a hammer, and a piece of rock for an anvil. Drums, musical horns, bows, spears, arrows, quivers, clubs, and curious iron truncheons, were amongst the collection, with pipes that would hold three pounds of tobacco, and tea-spoons like soup-ladles. He offered us the entire collection, and had already sent one to the Musée de Vienne.

We walked round the bazaars, and were mobbed a little by the natives staring at my mother and sister—an unusual outbreak of curiosity on their part. As I was passing a shop crowded on the outside by janissaries and attendants, I was sent for by the Governor of Berber, who very civilly offered to accompany us to Berber, and show us everything worth seeing on the road. After the offer of his house, camels, &c., he promised to visit us in the course of the morning.

I called on another of our new friends. He has also a large establishment, seventeen slaves, goats, cows, and about five acres of land, which he obtained by buying ten tickets, at a hundred piastres each, in a lottery. He is, however, willing to sell his domain for £60. He was a clerk for fifteen years in Kordofan, at £70 a-year, with Mr. ——, a Parisian merchant, who, he said, never sold British goods under a hundred per cent. profit. He bought an estate for a trifle, at Kordofan, where he also has a large establishment.

Ali Bey Hassib, the Governor of Berber, paid his promised visit. We entertained him with pipes and coffee, and he kindly took charge of our orders for camels, eggs, water-skins, and other requisites. Like all other high functionaries in these southern latitudes, he is here in honourable exile, with about £1000 a-year. Though his term of banishment is ended, he does not know when he shall be able to return to Cairo.

On our return from a walk in the bazaar, we found Bayoumi Effendi, a very distinguished man, who was one of the thirty sent to l’Ecole Polytechnique at Paris by Mehemet Ali, and came out seventh in his year. He remained in Paris thirteen years, and has translated two works into Arabic every year for many successive years. The Sultan offered him a post, and the rank of Colonel and Bey if he would settle at Constantinople, and the Pasha of Egypt, similar advantages if he would take service under him. For a long time he hesitated, but at last, in an evil hour, sailed for Egypt, and has become, in all but in name, a slave.

At first he was appointed head-master of instruction at Boulac. Suddenly he was ordered, with twelve of his ablest professors, to form a school here in Khartoum. No school has been built for him, and it is absolutely impossible to form one, as the parents run away and live independently in the desert, rather than send their children to be taught. Even could schools be established, his assistance would not be called for for many years, as the children can neither read nor write, and he is one of the cleverest professors in Europe in mathematics and engineering, besides being the first Arabic scholar.

He bitterly complains of having been deprived of his wives and children, and forced to leave Cairo in twelve hours; though he thinks the Pasha is less to blame than his advisers, for he never was allowed access to him, and is sure that he could not have offended him. Indeed, he feels so much confidence in his sense of justice, that, could he send his Highness a statement of his case, he thinks that redress would follow immediately. He attributes the mischief to malicious traducers—certain pupils of his.

The schools here are of course a humbug, and the whole thing designed to get rid of the professors, that their pupils might take their places. These are men whose education is very far from completed, and who doubtless interfere less with the acts of the Viceroy. It is the height of absurdity for any one travelling as we did, hurriedly across a country so new to them, to attempt to pass any judgments on its political state; still one can hardly pass over without a word these prisoners—for such, all but in name, they are—who are governors of important towns and provinces in the south of Egypt, or presiding over imaginary schools at Khartoum.

There seems no doubt that they have made themselves disagreeable to the Pasha, partly perhaps from domineering over him, or offering unasked-for advice, or more probably from being really, or supposed to be, in the pay or in favour of the Porte.

The encroachments of the Sultan on the Egyptian prerogative are well known, and the reception he has given to such officers or employés of the government at Cairo as have absconded or been seduced to Constantinople, leaves no doubt of his sinister intentions.

Whatever may be said of Abbas Pasha’s personal character, his government is more favourable to free trade, and more beneficial to his country than that of any preceding ruler; and as long as he follows the advice of his present friends, it is to be hoped that they will uphold the independence of Egypt, now becoming a most important country, and to no portion of the world more so than to England.

The result of these banishments is, that the provinces are very well governed: Khartoum, Berber, Dongola, Fazokl, &c., being all under the direction of intelligent men, who have travelled much, and been careful observers.

The illustrious strangers — Something about costume — Houses at Khartoum — Mahometans, Christians, and Jews — Trade and Commerce — Scheme for colonizing the White Nile, latitude 4° — Morals — The rainy season — Superstition — Military.

It is evident that we are considered somebodies in this good town of Khartoum. We have astonished the natives more than can very well be conceived. What they think of us, we cannot exactly ascertain: but it is clear enough that they think a good deal of us. They are a little puzzled when they speculate upon what brought us to their remote corner of the world; and to add to their mystification, they cannot for certain reasons avoid regarding us with a considerable amount of respect mingled with a slight addition of awe. The fact is, it has got abroad that our firman contained denunciations unusually stringent against all, and sundry, who wanted to eat dirt by exhibiting the slightest degree of neglect or remissness in looking after our safety, comfort, and pleasure. Every one argues that such commands from such a source mean something, and the upshot is that we were immediately set down as illustrious strangers of a most illustrious generation.

Long before our arrival, rumours were in circulation respecting us that increased in extravagance every hour. Among other veracious statements, it was affirmed that a gentleman, with his hareem, was known to be on the road, who was a Pasha with three tails; that he was adorned with three diamond stars on each breast and neck, and prodigious gold epaulettes on each shoulder. One of our friends who knew something of us, was asked if the great man about to visit them, really was greater than any Pasha of their acquaintance. Our friend set the matter at rest, by assuring his eager questioner that all Pashas were as nothing to the least of us, for they were obliged to do the bidding of their master—but that we were our own masters, and did exactly as we pleased. There was a fervent exclamation respecting the goodness of Allah, and the querist walked away, as an Irishman would phrase it, “bothered intirely.”

I have never seen a country of such extreme cleanliness. Though the drapery of the people is often of the scantiest—in this there is nothing offensive. The Bedouins are satisfied with only a cloth round their loins during the heat of the day—the girls and children often have not even this very small wardrobe to boast of—nevertheless, they are so perfectly modest that no one thinks of their deficiencies. The costume of the elder females often assumes a classical character—and is likely to afford immense satisfaction to sketchers, and those who fancy that they are gifted with a taste for the artistic.

But while I am discussing other people’s toilets, it may be thought scarcely fair that I have ventured to say nothing about my own. I have said nothing on this interesting subject, for the very simple reason—that I have nothing to say. But merely in compliance with a principle of justice, I must beg to inform the reader—that I wore, when in the desert, a rusty pair of blue trowsers bought at Milan, elegantly fastened round my waist with an old rope, to remedy certain unavoidable deficiencies in the article buttons—above that a red shirt—that was. It is now beautifully varied, being partly purple and partly pink. A tie extremely unstudied, buck-skin boots, and a top coat containing something of everything in the sporting line; these with a tarboosh and a turban, constitute the sum total of my classical toggery.

As I had an opportunity of observing the tout ensemble, in our only mirror—a circular looking-glass just two and a quarter inches in diameter—there is no fear of my too greatly admiring it. If Mr. Narcissus had travelled in the desert with the thermometer 94° in the shade, till his complexion became the colour of a brick-bat, and his nose and lips were in a state of intense inflammation—and got clothed after the elegant fashion I had adopted, there would have been no danger to the gentleman on the score of self-conceit. So much for my appearance in the desert. We were, however, at Khartoum dressed exactly as we should have been had we been travelling in Europe.

The town consists of about three thousand houses, resembling those already described. Architecture in these regions being in an extremely primitive condition, the arrangement of the streets is just what might be expected from the aspect of the houses. There are no spacious thoroughfares; here and there appears something like a square, or space—but the perspective generally is by no means such as would satisfy the humblest European judgment in the art of building. The better class of houses are possessed either by the government officials, or by the European residents. In some there are approaches to luxury, in others to comfort; indeed, it is but fair to acknowledge that with the addition of delightful gardens, and a pleasant climate, it is not difficult to reconcile oneself to a residence within mud walls.

The inhabitants are thirty thousand in number, including the military—they are divided into Mahometans, Christians, and Jews; the former are an immense majority of the population, and worship in their mosques—they are particularly unenlightened, and their priests are not much better. The latter number about fifty. They comprise the entire community attached to the Roman Catholic missions, possess three priests, have a chapel for the performance of religious worship, as well as a school for the preparation of converts, and the instruction of the rising generation of their co-religionists. The Jews are about a dozen.

The members of the three religions live together very amicably—the followers of the Prophet looking upon the supporters of the Pope with supreme indifference, and the professors of Christianity regarding the worshippers of the Koran with profound pity. The Jews, of course, abominating both. Sometimes one of those accidents that are said to happen in the best regulated families, varies this state of harmony with a little bigotry—and “the dogs of Christians,” and “the beasts of Jews,” are made to suffer as much persecution as may be thought good for them—and “the miserable Infidels” fall prodigiously in Christian and Jewish opinion. All parties are taxed with very little partiality; and the government is equally indifferent to their interests.

Much activity prevails in the neighbourhood in boat-building; the vessels constructed being chiefly long, open boats for navigating the Nile. They are usually built of palm-wood, but are very clumsy contrivances.

The principal portion of their trade consists in the produce of their gardens and fields, which are extremely productive. The bazaars consist of four covered and four uncovered streets; the former are the finest shops, and are filled with articles of merchandize of very various character, among which figure Manchester prints, Sheffield knives and scissors on cards, and Staffordshire potteries: the uncovered streets are mostly booths, in which are sold senna, lichens, and various herbs and grasses. The merchants here export gum-arabic, galls, senna, castor-oil, and large quantities of ivory on camels to Korosko, after conveying them down the Nile to Berber.

A much greater trade might be carried on with English goods than has yet been attempted; but this should be extended as far into the interior as possible, that we might profit by the immense stores of ivory and other valuable commodities, that are so easily procurable. I have had another conversation with Monsieur R—— on this subject. He is for colonizing the White River at latitude 4°; stating that the people there have already learnt to distinguish between the European and the Government expeditions. A steamer of ten or fifteen horse-power, flat-bottomed, would do admirably to tow up the diabeheehs. According to his account, monkeys swarm in the trees at ten hours’ journey from here; at three days’ journey the traveller meets with flocks of guinea-fowls; and elephants, tigers, and lions in eight days.

The lower class of people content themselves with one wife, who usually rewards her faithful spouse with many children. The higher class are not so easily satisfied; and the grandees indulge in the permitted number of four.

The most unpleasant part of the year is the rainy season; and so heavy is the fall, that the streets are impassable. This comes on, too, so suddenly, that should any one call upon another a little before the commencement of the showers, he must remain at his friend’s house for three or four days, till the waters subside. No one attempts to quit his dwelling during the rains; and the town, therefore, must possess much the appearance of having only just emerged from the Deluge.

Superstitious practices and prejudices are general. All Wednesdays are considered unfortunate, particularly the last Wednesday in the month: but the last Wednesday in the year is still more unfortunate, as on that day Moses made the waters blood. So the day previously, every one provides water for two days, as no one thinks of going to the river till after Asser—three o’clock in the afternoon. The Pasha is not free from these superstitions; and Riffa Bey, who has enjoyed the advantages of a Persian, as well as a Parisian education, and is thoroughly versed in magical lore, has daily to explain his Excellency’s dreams.

The military force here consists of ten thousand infantry, and two thousand cavalry. In the yard of the Governor’s house, I noticed several pieces of brass cannon, four to ten pounders; he has also some howitzers and bombs. There are in the Soudan, twenty thousand infantry and twelve thousand cavalry, with thirty-six pieces of artillery, under the command of Latiffe Pasha, who is a general officer. Indeed, every one in the civil, as well as in the military service, possesses military rank. The doctor is a commander one grade below a lieutenant-colonel. Ali Bey Hassib is a full colonel; and this is so much a matter of course, that we are continually questioned as to our standing in our own army. The answer that had previously settled our superiority to the whole race of Pashas, always sufficed. Our independence of superior authority gave us very high military rank, indeed.

Visit from the Governor — Catholic mission and school — A Colonel of Cavalry — Our grand banquet given to Latiffe Pasha, and Ali Bey Hassib — Turkish custom of dressing the table — The Governor’s statements — New dromedary saddles and bridles — An excursion — An interesting group — A visit to Madame Latiffe Pasha — Farewells.

His Excellency paid us an early visit this morning. His costume was not so rich as that which had so well become him on our reception; but, as if to make amends, he wore over it a magnificent cloth cloak trimmed with blue velvet. He was, as usual, very friendly; asked us to dinner; but as he could not ask our ladies, we of course refused on account of our approaching departure; but it was arranged that he should dine with us.

After luncheon, we visited the Catholic Mission—MM. Pedemonte, Angelo, and Zara. They received us most hospitably, and after the usual refreshments, were desirous that we should take with us about two camel-loads of White Nile curiosities. We examined their pretty little chapel, and their school with equal interest. The latter consisted of about twenty boys, in various costumes, and of almost as many different hues, from Frank white to inky native. Many of them are children of the European residents. Some can speak a little French and Italian, and nearly all can read and write.

I was anxious to make acquaintance with a celebrated colonel of cavalry, quondam Governor of Assouan, sub-Governor of the Soudan, and lately Governor of Kordofan. M. Angelo took me to his house. We found him in a room furnished with rug-covered bedsteads, and hung round with beautiful sabres, several pairs of very handsomely-mounted pistols, besides an assortment of guns and fowling-pieces. He was shy, and entirely disclaimed the feats that had been attributed to him, such as dividing oxen, and severing cushions or silk-handkerchiefs with a single blow of his sabre. He, however, gave us a very animated account of the war in Kordofan, where he had commanded, and of the showers of clubs which fell from unknown enemies while he was fighting in the woods and mountains.

Our grand dinner was now about to come off. We had invited Latiffe Pasha and Ali Bey Hassib; and already his Excellency’s head-cook and servant had made his appearance, bearing his master’s silver-spoon and fork, and a curious tray full of little dishes or saucers, containing condiments. There were sixteen of them; two of cucumbers, two of oranges divided, two of sugared pomegranate, two of parsley-salad, two of radishes, two of onion-salad, one of figs, one of eggs, and two little cups full of garlic and milk. This is a Turkish custom, and the little vessels looked pretty on the table.

In due time our distinguished guests arrived, and so did the dinner. The affair was rather heavy at first; but as the great men found the use of their appetites, they found also the use of their tongues. They ate of everything offered to them, but in small quantities, leaving much on their plates, frequently helping themselves, with a fork to a taste of the small dishes. They particularly enjoyed the idea of eating at Khartoum the English salmon, we had carried there in the hermetically-sealed boxes purchased at Fortnum and Mason’s, which was excellent. They drank sparingly, Ali Bey Hassib taking nothing but lemonade: nevertheless it was evident that they enjoyed themselves; the conversation was carried on with great vivacity, and immense fun was excited when Mahomed, while putting a dish on the table, set fire to his beard.

After dinner we became extremely social, exhibiting our purses, seals, ladies’ work and drawings, and they showing us their seals, which are signets, with their names cut on a stone. These they employ in the way of signatures as they never sign their names.

The Pasha became at last very communicative about the state of the country. His accounts, however, were startling. He said that the province pays the whole of its expenses, and enables him besides to remit eighteen to twenty thousand bourses per annum to Cairo (about ninety to one hundred thousand pounds). He placed the population of the Soudan at a figure too enormous to be credited, and spoke of naked Bedouins owning one hundred thousand oxen; not one of the vast stock ever being killed. We could not attempt to dispute such statements, and passed a most pleasant evening, our friends not taking their departure till ten o’clock.

Whilst we were entertaining their Excellencies, Daireh entertained a select circle of eighteen, comprising the Pasha’s pipe-bearer, head-cook, and other attendants. Hospitality was ever the order of the day in the kitchen, and the outer court was always full of curiosity dealers and the servants of our visitors, who brought a pipe-bearer and sometimes as many as four servants.

The next morning we had arranged to start for an excursion, and at sunrise our party, consisting of the European residents, my brother and myself, and three servants with pipes, &c., were ready to mount our several dromedaries. The saddles are different from any we have yet seen; the grass hunches are superseded by leather cushions, and a comfortable leather seat is placed on the extreme points of the saddle, which is covered with red or blue sheep-skin. It is fastened by four leather girths, which being very tight, never give even during the fastest trot. Were it otherwise, with the common dromedary saddles we have hitherto used, we could not have held on a quarter of an hour at the pace we went. The bridles are as superior as the saddles, and the dromedaries equally first-rate.

We proceeded to the White River, and thence to a village, where we sat under a tree on the people’s bedsteads, smoked, and drank some of their abominable beer. We beheld one of the prettiest groups we have yet noticed: a mother and four daughters under a shed; two of the latter, remarkably pretty little girls about seven or eight years old, were caressing a baby, whilst the eldest, a beautiful woman, was plaiting the hair of her younger sister, which was very long and bushy, yet quite clean and combed out—in a very different condition to what it will be a few days hence, from the united operation of dust and castor-oil. A few cows and goats completed the picture.

One of the gentlemen had been very amusing, and now offered to marry one of the girls; but they unanimously declined, believing that he was a Turk. Assured that his embroidered jacket, white trowsers, and red top-boots had deceived them, they then refused, because he might take them away.

Though the Nubian women are not exactly what can be called beautiful, they are almost always of fine proportions; their height generally five feet six inches, with well-turned limbs, beautifully moulded neck and shoulders, and very good complexion. By way of drawback to these advantages, they have large lips, tinged with blue, eyebrows dyed with henna, and hair falling in little plaits around their heads, often ignorant of comb and brush, and matted with grease.

Their eyes are large, sweet and soft in expression, generally black, though often blue. In every movement, they betray a native grace and elegance, which not all European belles attain, particularly the younger girls, who are frequently very attractive; the largeness of the lip not being fully developed, and their blue eyes possessing a brighter tint than that seen in their seniors. They marry before twelve and thirteen, and are already old at twenty. Their appearance is certainly not improved by the habit they have of gashing their faces, with seven or eight cuts on the upper part of each cheek. This custom is followed by the men, who repeat the operation on their breasts.

On our return, we went to see the collection of Monsieur Nicola, a naturalist, now on the White Nile; the birds were numerous, and were very well stuffed; many of extreme beauty, were quite new to us. We saw a stuffed ant-eater of great size, a live eagle, and a cat from the upper country; and were extremely gratified with our visit.

My mother and sister called on Madame Latiffe Pasha, who received them very handsomely in her new residence adjoining our garden. She is lady-like and pretty; and was becomingly dressed in a tight Greek jacket, covered with gold-lace, and full blue silk trousers. She showed them over her house, which is the only well-built one in the country, gave them coffee in the usual gold filigree cups, which shared their admiration with the embroidered napkins, table-covers, and velvet work, that had been executed by herself. She did not appear to be very young—about twenty—was tall, and remarkably playful. All accounts of these imprisoned beauties resemble each other, and tend to make one believe that even here, if the ladies were educated, and treated like their European sisters, they would maintain quite as respectable a position in society.

Bayoumi Effendi came to see us to-day, and indulged in a long grumble for the third time. I can always sympathize with any one who happens to be reduced to grumbling, and knowing what a relief it is, I encouraged our friend till he had exhausted his resources in this line; and then he left us in a state of mind almost to be envied.

We were constantly employed in receiving and paying visits. Every one called to pay his parting compliments, and we could not be outdone in such civility. Sometimes we had little remembrances, and sometimes gave them—one trifle in this way created a sensation throughout the entire civilized community. The apothecary gave us two chairs, and we returned the gift with forty potatoes. The fame of this vegetable quickly brought us more applicants than we could supply. They are entirely unknown here, having but once penetrated to these remote regions, and then only in an unsatisfactory state. We were extremely glad to deprive ourselves of a few dishes, that our kind friends might have an opportunity of cultivating so rare a luxury in their gardens.

Lastly we paid our respects to the Pasha, who, surrounded by the grandees of the place, received us with his usual kindliness. We thanked him for all favours—but before we parted he insisted on showing a horse of his, which a cavalry officer was exercising. It was a small well-made animal, beautifully trained. I much admired his changing feet when going rapidly round in a small circle—but could not appreciate the suddenness with which he was pulled up on his haunches, when galloping at the speed of from fifteen to twenty miles an hour. In Turkish ideas this is very clever—but is easy to do—requiring little more than a very strong bit; the use of which, however, must entirely spoil the poor creature’s mouth.

Daireh was sent round the town to tip all the functionaries, which necessitated an expenditure of many dollars of backsheesh. The Governor sent us charcoal, and other things that were wanted. Afterwards his grooms and servants came to ask for boots, European trousers, &c., for all the world as though we had stocked ourselves with the contents of a London “Mart of Fashion.” One soldier, a deserter from the army now acting against the Abyssinians on the Atbarah, came to beg us to intercede for him; but we tried to explain the English law on desertion, and declined interfering. Lastly came Riffa Bey, with many letters; the ordinary post never troubling itself about the correspondence of persons like himself, labouring under the disgrace of banishment. Indeed, some of the Europeans remain several years without hearing from their friends.

The Governor’s dahabeeyeh — A Bedouin feast — Tickling a crocodile — Pyramids at Meroe — A frightened hippopotamus — Their manners — Arrival at Berber — A very pretty investment.

On the first of January we sailed, or rather rowed from Khartoum, in the Governor’s dahabeeyeh with eighteen oars. We fired a salute of twelve guns on passing his Excellency’s house, which brought him out to the balcony, where he stood for some time waving his hand to us. We presently passed “the meeting of the waters,” soon arrived on the broad Nile; indeed, made such way, that by eleven o’clock in the morning we anchored opposite Saiab.

Our dahabeeyeh is much larger than any of the boats at Khartoum: it is about ninety-one feet long, carried eighteen oars, and a crew of twenty-two men. It had two masts, besides the small sail behind; but they are taken down and arranged on the deck. It was built by Mehemet Ali at Cairo, by him brought up to Khartoum through the six cataracts—an unheard-of feat—where it came into the hands of Latiffe Pasha, who caused it to be thoroughly overhauled and made as good as new. The cabin is small—a portion having been devoted to a bath—but though somewhat pinched for room, we contrived to make it do, both by night and by day, without suffering much inconvenience. The men were mostly Nubians, and they pulled us along with immense sweeps.

We continued to proceed slowly towards Berber, making but little progress against the very strong north winds, although the rowers exerted themselves manfully. They were encouraged with promises of money, and with what they much more appreciated, two or three sheep, and prodigious quantities of burra, which they drink with great zest. One day we walked out on the sand, where they were feasting, and watched them devour the stomach of a sheep raw, apparently with extraordinary relish, washing it down with beer, of which, in the course of the day, they contrived to swallow seventeen quarts among them.

We passed several high mountains before we entered the sixth cataract, which was more like the second than the others, and continued for four or six hours among rocks, many of them concealed from sight, which made it dangerous proceeding at night. We shot one little fall of about four feet, nearly opposite Wady Bashava, where we slept on Christmas Eve. The affair was managed with remarkable skill.

We beheld many crocodiles, most of them white, or nearly so—sometimes four basking on a bank—and we shot at one. He rolled over in a great hurry; but being at a distance of a hundred yards, with only a charge of large shot in the gun, we could only have tickled him. These crocodiles, of which, during our passage from Khartoum to Berber, we saw immense quantities, are what are usually called white—grey would be a more exact expression. They are not so large as the black ones, generally speaking. The largest we saw may have been twenty feet long; but they were usually from four to twelve feet only. To give some idea of how numerous these monsters are in this part of the river, I may mention that, on one occasion, looking out of a window of the boat, I counted twenty-seven on one side of the river. We saw also herds of many thousand head of cattle, drinking in various places from the banks—most probably they had come many miles from the interior. Their immense numbers corroborated one of the statements of Latiffe Pasha.

We have only as yet been met by two or three diabeheehs and a few boats of the country; the former hoisted their flags, thinking we were the Pasha, and were considerably mystified on observing our European costumes, with the further botheration of ladies staring at them with all their might; but, borne along by the wind which delayed us, they shot past with their three sails, and were soon far away. The other vessels were large rowing-boats, propelled by three or four men, with paddles of a very small size.

I was called out to observe two crocodiles lying with their paws familiarly round each other’s necks, and their necks on each other’s shoulders. On the other side, I counted nearly three hundred and fifty camels refreshing themselves with a draught. We next observed something like a black rock, which was introduced to us as an hippopotamus; but before we had time to identify it with the telescope, it was gone.

We arrived at Meroe on the evening of the fifth of January, and after breakfast next morning mounted our asses and set off to inspect the “eighty brick pyramids” marked on the map. We passed a considerable breadth of land covered with brick and stone—the ruins of the capital of Ethiopia, subsequently the kingdom of Meroe, while under the rule of Candace.