XI. The back yard, with summer house, and gardens beyond.
It is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of plants in terms of their height, but the beginner may be aided by approximate measurements. The following lists are made from Bulletin 161 of the Cornell Experiment Station, which gives tabular data on many annuals grown at Ithaca, N.Y. Seeds of most of the kinds were sown in the open, rather late. “The soil varied somewhat, but it was light and well tilled, and only moderately rich.” Ordinary good care was given the plants. The average height of the plants of each kind at full growth, as they stood on the ground, is given in these lists. Of course, these heights might be less or more with different soils, different treatments, and different climates; but the figures are fairly comparable among themselves.
The measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen under the trade names here given. It is not unlikely that some of the discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to type; some of it may have been due to soil conditions. The same name may be found in two divisions in some instances, the plants having been grown from different lots of seeds. The lists will indicate to the grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds.
Seedsmen’s catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants.
Plants 6-8 in. high
Abronia umbellata grandiflora.
Alyssum compactum.
Callirrhoë involucrata.
Godetia, Bijou, Lady Albemarle, and Lady Satin Rose.
Gypsophila muralis.
Kaulfussia amelloides.
Leptosiphon hybridus.
Linaria Maroccana.
Lobelia Erinus and Erinus Elegant.
Nemophila atomaria, discoidalis, insignis, and maculata.
Nolana lanceolata, paradoxa, prostrata, and atriplicifolia.
Podolepis chrysantha and affinis.
Portulaca.
Rhodanthe Manglesii.
Sedum caeruleum.
Silene pendula ruberrima.
Verbena.
Plants 9-12 in. high
Alyssum.
Asperula setosa azurea.
Brachycome iberidifolia.
Calandrinia umbellata elegans.
Callirrhoë pedata nana.
Centaurea Cyanus Victoria Dwarf Compact.
Centranthus macrosiphon nanus.
Collinsia bicolor, candidissima and multicolor marmorata.
Convolvulus minor and tricolor.
Eschscholtzia crocea.
Gamolepis Tagetes.
Gilia laciniata and linifolia.
Godetia Duchess of Albany, Prince of Wales, Fairy Queen, Brilliant,
grandiflora maculata, Whitneyi, Duke of Fife, rubicunda splendens.
Helipterum corymbiflorum.
Iberis affinis.
Kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea, and a. kermesina.
Leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus.
Linaria bipartita splendida.
Matthiola dwarf Forcing Snowflake, Wallflower-leaved.
Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.
Mimulus cupreus.
Nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata.
Nigella.
Nolana atriplicifolia.
Omphalodes linifolia.
Œnothera rosea and tetraptera.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf and Dwarf Snowball.
Rhodanthe maculata.
Saponaria Calabrica.
Schizanthus pinnatus.
Silene Armeria and pendula.
Specularia.
Viscaria oculata cserulea.
Plants 13-17 in. high
Abronia umbellata.
Acroclinium album and roseum.
Brachycome iberidifolia alba.
Browallia Czerniakowski and elata.
Cacalia.
Calandrinia grandiflora.
Calendula sulphurea flore pleno.
Chrysanthemum carinatum.
Collomia coccinea.
Convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis.
Dianthus, the Margaret varieties, Dwarf Perpetual, Caryophyllus
semperflorens, Chinensis, dentosus hybridus, Heddewigii, imperialis,
laciniatus, plumarius, superbus dwarf, picotee, Comtesse de Paris.
Elsholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica, Mandarin, maritima and tenuifolia.
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis.
Helipterum Sanfordii.
Hieracium, Bearded.
Iberis amara, coronaria Empress, coronaria White Rocket,
Sweet-scented, umbellata, umbellata carnea, and umbellata lilacina.
Leptosiphon carmineus.
Lupinus nanus, sulphureus.
Malope grandiflora.
Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved and Virginian stock.
Mirabilis alba.
Nigella.
Œnothera Lamarckiana.
Palafoxia Hookeriana.
Papaver, Shirley and glaucum.
Petunia.
Phlox of many kinds.
Salvia Horminum.
Schizanthus papilionaceus.
Statice Thouini and superba.
Tagetes, Pride of the Garden and Dwarf.
Tropaeolum, many kinds of dwarf.
Venidium calendulaceum.
Verbena of several kinds.
Viscaria Cœli-rosa, elegans picta, oculata, and oculata alba.
Whitlavia gloxinioides.
Plants 18-23 in. high
Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis.
Amarantus atropurpureus.
Calendula officinalis, Meteor, suffruticosa, and pluvialis.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.
Callirrhoë pedata.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Blue and suaveolens.
Centranthus macrosiphon.
[Illustration: Fig. 245. Gaillardia, one of the showy garden annuals.]
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum, carinatum, tricolor Dunnettii.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium (annual).
Eutoca Wrangeliana.
Gaillardia picta (Fig. 245), Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia, a. rosea and tricolor.
Helichrysum atrosanguineum.
Ipomœa coccinea.
Linum grandiflorum.
Loasa tricolor.
Lupinus albus, hirsutus and pubescens.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola, several kinds.
Œnothera Drummondii.
Papaver Mephisto, cardinale, c. hybridum, c. Danebrog, umbrosum.
Tagetes patula and signata.
Vicia Gerardii.
Whitlavia grandiflora and g. alba.
Xeranthemum album and multiflorum album.
Zinnias of many kinds (all not mentioned in other lists).
Plants 24-30 in. high
Bartonia aurea.
Calendula officinalis fl. pl., Prince of Orange and Pongei.
Calliopsis elegans picta.
Cardiospermum Halicacabum.
Carduus benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus minor Emperor William.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemum tricolor, t. hybridum and coronarium sulphureum fl. pl.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Datura cornucopia.
Erysimum Arkansanum and Perofskianum.
Eutoca viscida.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum.
Hibiscus Africanus.
Impatiens, all varieties.
Lupinus hirsutus pilosus.
Matthiola Blood-red Ten Weeks, Cut and Come Again, grandiflora,
annuus, and others.
Mirabilis Jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba.
Papaver, American Flag, Mikado and Double.
Perilla laciniata and Nankinensis.
Salvia farinacea.
Tagetes Eldorado, Nugget of Gold, erecta fl. pl.
Xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl. pl.
Zinnia elegans alba fl. pl.
[Illustration: Fig. 246. Wild phlox (_P. maculata_), one of the parents of the perennial garden phloxes.]
Acroclinium, double rose and white.
Adonis aestivalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum album and blue.
Amarantus bicolor ruber.
Argemone grandiflora.
Centaurea Americana.
Centauridium Drummondii.
Cerinthe retorta. [c. double yellow.
Chrysanthemum coronarium album and Clarkia elegans alba fl. pl.
Cleome spinosa.
Cyclanthera pedata.
Datura fastuosa and New Golden
Euphorbia marginata. [Queen.
Gilia capitata alba.
Helianthus Dwarf double and cucu-
Hibiscus Golden Bowl. [merifolius.
Lavatera trimestris.
Madia elegans.
Martynia craniolaria.
Salvia coccinea.
[Illustration: Fig. 247. Zinnias. Often known as “youth and old age.”]
Plants 41 in. and above.
Adonis autumnalis.
Helianthus of several garden kinds (not mentioned elsewhere).
Ricinus, all varieties.
And many climbing vines.
Distances for planting annuals (or plants treated as annuals).
Only an approximate idea can be given of the distances apart at which annuals should be planted, for not only does the distance depend on the fertility of the land (the stronger the soil the greater the distance), but also on the object the person has in growing the plants, whether to produce a solid mass effect or to secure strong specimen plants with large individual bloom. If specimen plants are to be raised, the distances should be liberal.
The distances here given for some of the commoner annuals may be considered to represent average or usual spaces that single plants may occupy under ordinary conditions in flowerbeds, although it would probably be impossible to find any two gardeners or seedsmen who would agree on the details. These are suggestions rather than recommendations. It is always well to set or sow more plants than are wanted, for there is danger of loss from cut-worms and other causes. The general tendency is to let the plants stand too close together at maturity. In case of doubt, place plants described in books and catalogues as very dwarf at six inches, those as medium-sized at twelve inches, very large growers at two feet, and thin them out if they seem to demand it as they grow.
The plants in these lists are thrown into four groups (rather than all placed together with the numbers after them) in order to classify the subject in the beginner’s mind.
6 to 9 inches apart
Ageratum, very dwarf kinds.
Alyssum.
Asperula setosa.
Cacalia.
Candytuft.
Clarkia, dwarf.
Collinsia.
Gysophila muralis.
Kaulfussia.
Larkspur, dwarf kinds.
Linaria.
Linum grandiflorum
Lobelia Erinus. Mignonette, dwarf kinds.
Pansy.
Phlox, very dwarf kinds.
Pinks, very dwarf kinds.
Rhodanthe.
Schizopetalon.
Silene Armeria.
Snapdragon, dwarf.
Sweet pea.
Torenia.
[Illustration: Fig. 248. Improved perennial phlox.]
10 to 15 inches apart
Those marked (ft.) are examples of plants that may usually stand at twelve inches.
Abronia (ft.).
Acroclinium.
Adlumia.
Adonis autumnalis.
Ageratum, tall kinds.
Alonsoa.
Aster, China, smaller kinds (ft.).
Balsam.
Bartonia.
Browallia.
Calendula.
California poppy (Eschscholtzia).
Calliopsis.
Cardiospermum.
Carnation, flower-garden kinds (ft.).
Celosia, small kinds.
Centaurea Cyanus.
Centauridium (ft.).
Centranthus (ft.).
Clarkia, tall (ft.).
Convolvulus tricolor (ft.).
Gaillardia, except on strong land.
Gilias.
Glaucium.
Godetia (ft.).
Gomphrena.
Gypsophila elegans.
Helichrysum (ft.).
Hunnemannia.
Jacobaea. {kinds.
Larkspur, tall annual
Malope. {varieties.
Marigold, intermediate
Mignonette, tall kinds.
Mesembryanthemum
(ice-plant) (ft.).
Morning-glory.
Nasturtium, dwarf.
Nemophila.
Nigella.
Petunia.
Phlox Drummondii.
Pinks.
Poppies (6 to 18 in., according to variety).
Portulaca (ft.).
Salpiglossis (ft.).
Scabiosa (ft.).
Schizanthus.
Snapdragon, tall kinds.
Statice (ft.).
Stock (ft.).
Tagetes, dwarf French.
Thunbergia (ft.).
Verbena.
Whitlavia (ft.), {(ft.).
Zinnia, very dwarf kinds
[Illustration: Fig 249. Eschscholtzia, or California poppy. One-half size.]
18 to 24 inches
Amarantus.
Ammobium.
Argemone.
Aster, China, the big kinds (or rows 2 ft. apart and plants 1 ft. in row).
Callirrhoë.
Canterbury bell (up to 3 ft.).
Celosia, large kinds (up to 30 in.).
Chrysanthemum, annual.
Cosmos, smaller kinds.
Euphorbia marginata.
Four o’clock (up to 30 in.)
Hop, Japanese. (to 30 in.)
Kochia, or summer cypress
Marigold, tall kinds.
Nasturtium, tall, if allowed to
spread on the ground.
Nicotiana (up to 30 in.).
Œnothera, tall kinds.
Salvia coccinea (splendens
grandiflora), about 2 ft.
Zinnia, tall kinds (up to 3 ft).
[Illustration: Fig. 250. A modern peony.]
About 3 feet or more
Caladium.
Cosmos, tall kinds (2 to 3 ft.).
Dahlia.
Datura.
Martynia.
Ricinus or castor bean.
Solanums.
Sunflower, tall kinds.
Wigandia.
3. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS
There is a rapidly growing appreciation of perennial herbs, not only as flower-garden and lawn subjects, but as parts of native landscapes. Every locality yields its wild asters, golden-rods, columbines, iris, trilliums, lilies, anemones, pentstemons, mints, sunflowers, or other plants; and many of these also make good subjects for the home grounds.
It is important to remember that some perennial herbs begin to fail after one to three seasons of full bloom. It is a good plan to have new plants coming on to take their place; or the old roots may be taken up in the fall and divided, only the fresh and strong parts being planted again.
Perennial herbs are propagated in various ways,—by seeds, and by cuttings of the stems and roots, but mostly by the easy method of division. On the raising of these plants from seeds, William Falconer writes as follows in Dreer’s “Garden Book” for 1909:—
“Hardy perennials are easily grown from seed. In many cases they are a little slower than annuals, but with intelligent care they are successfully raised, and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big stock of perennials. Many sorts, if sown in spring, bloom the first year from seeds as early as annuals; for instance: gaillardia, Iceland poppies, Chinese larkspur, platycodon, etc. Others do not bloom until the second year.
“The amateur may have more success and less bother growing perennials from seed sown in the open ground than from any other way. Prepare a bed in a nice, warm, sheltered spot in the garden, preferably not very sunny. Let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above the general level, and the soil be a mellow fine earth on the surface. Draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed three or four inches apart, and here sow the seeds, keeping the varieties of one kind or nature as much together as practicable, covering the seeds thinly; press the whole surface gently, water moderately, then dust a little fine loose soil over all. If the weather is sunny or windy, shade with papers or a few branches, but remove these in the evening. When the seedlings come up, thin them out to stiffen those that are left, and when they are two or three inches high, they are fit for transplanting into permanent quarters. All this should be done in early spring, say March, April, or May. Again, in July or August perennials are very easily raised out of doors, and much in the same way as above. Or they may be sown in early spring indoors, in the window, the hotbed, the coldframe, or the greenhouse, preferably in boxes or pans, as for growing annuals. Some gardeners sow seed right in the coldframe. I have tried both ways, and find the boxes best, as the different varieties of seeds do not come up at the same time, and you can remove them from the close frame to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up, whereas, if sown in a frame, you would have to give them all the same treatment. When the seedlings are large enough, I transplant them into other boxes, and put them into a shady part of the garden, but not under the shade of trees, as there they will ‘draw’ too much. About the fifteenth of September plant them in the garden where they are to bloom, or if the garden is full of summer-flowering plants, put them in beds in the vegetable garden, to be planted out in the early spring, and give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden changes of the weather away from them.”
Hardy perennial herbs may be planted in September and October with excellent results; also in spring. See that they are protected with mulch in winter.
Perennial herbs suitable for lawn and “planting” effects.
Some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn planting in the North, chosen chiefly on account of their size, foliage, and habit, are mentioned in the following brief list. They may or may not be suitable for flower-gardens. It is impossible to give to this list any degree of completeness; but the names here printed will be suggestive of the kinds of things that may be used. The * denotes native plants.
Yucca, Yucca filamentosa.*
Funkia, Funkia, of several species.
Peltate saxifrage, Saxifraga peltata.*
Rose mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos.*
Elecampane, Inula Helenium (Fig. 251).
Wild sunflowers, Helianthus* of different species, especially H. orygalis, H. giganteus, H. grosse-serratus, H. strumosus.
[Illustration: Fig. 251. Elecampane. Naturalized in old fields and along roadsides.]
Compass-plants, Silphium* of several species, especially S. terebinthinaceum, S. laciniatum, S. perfoliatum.
Sacaline, Polygonum Sachalinense.
Japanese knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum.
Bocconia, Bocconia cordata.
Wild wormwood, Artemisia Stelleriana* and others.
Butterfly-weed, Asclepias tuberosa.*
Wild asters, Aster* of many species, especially A. Novæ-Anglæ (best), A. laevis, A. multiflorus, A. spectabilis.
Golden-rods, Solidago* of various species, especially S. speciosa, S. nemoralis, S. juncea, S. gigantea.
Loose-strife, Lythrum Salicaria.
Flags, Iris of many species, some native.
Japanese wind-flower, Anemone Japonica.
Goat’s beard, Aruncus sylvester (Spiræa Aruncus).*
Baptisia, Baptisia tinctoria.*
Thermopsis, Thermopsis mollis.*
Wild senna, Cassia Marilandica.*
Wild trefoil, Desmodium Canadense* and others.
Ribbon grass, Phalaris arundinacea* var. picta.
Zebra grass, Eulalia (or Miscanthus) species, and varieties.
Wild panic grass, Panicum virgatum.*
Bambusas (and related things) of several sorts.
Ravenna grass, Erianthus Ravennæ.
Arundo, Arundo Donax, and var. variegata.
Reed, Phragmites communis.*
This and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the edges of water or in bogs (the list might be greatly extended).
Wild rice, Zizania aquatica.*
Cat-tail, Typha angustifolia* and T. latifolia.*
Lizard’s-tail, Saururus cernuus.*
Peltandra, Peltandra undulata.*
Orontium, Orontium aquaticum.*
Native calla, Calla palustris.*
A brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous perennials.
To facilitate making a selection of perennial herbs for bloom, the plants in the following list are arranged according to their flowering season, beginning with the earliest. The name of the month indicates when they usually begin to bloom. It should be understood that the blooming season of plants is not a fixed period, but varies more or less with localities and seasons. These dates are applicable to most of the middle and northern states. Natives to North America are marked with an asterisk *. This list is by Ernest Walker.
MARCH
Blue Wind-flower, Anemone blanda. 6 in. March-May. Sky-blue, star-like flowers. Foliage deeply cut. For border and rockwork.
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria Canadensis.* 6 in. March-April. Pure white. Glaucous foliage. Partial shade. Border or rock-work.
APRIL
Mountain Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 6 in. April-June. Flowers pure white; close heads in profusion. Fragrant. For dry places and rock-work.
Purple Rock-cress, Aubrietia deltoidea. 6 in. April-June. Small purple flowers in great profusion.
Daisy, Bellis perennis, 4-6 in. April-July. Flowers white, pink, or red; single or double. The double varieties are the more desirable. Cover the plants in winter with leaves. May be raised from seed, like pansies.
Spring Beauty, Claytonia Virginica.* 6 in. April-May. Clusters of light pink flowers. Partial shade. From six to a dozen should be set together.
Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Meadia.* 1 ft. April-May. Reddish purple flowers, orange-yellow eye, in clusters. Cool, shady location. Plant several in a place.
Dog’s-bane, Doronicum plantagineum varexcelsum. 20 in. April-June. Large, showy flowers; orange-yellow. Bushy plants.
Liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba* and triloba.* 6 in. April-May. Flowers small but numerous, varying white and pink. Partial shade.
Hardy Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens. 10 in. April-May. Small white flowers in clusters; profuse. Large, spreading, evergreen tufts.
Alpine Lamp-flower, Lychnis alpina.* 6 in. April-May. Flowers star-like, in showy heads; pink. For border and rockery.
Early Forget-me-not, Myosotis dissitiflora. 6 in. April-June. Small clusters of deep sky-blue flowers. Tufted habit.
[Illustration: Fig. 252. The wild Trillium grandiflorum.]
Everblooming F., M. palustris var. semperflorens. 10 in. Light blue; spreading habit.
Blue-bells, Mertensia Virginica.* 1 ft. April-May. Flowers blue, changing to pink; pendent; tubular; not showy, but beautiful. Rich soil. Partial shade.
Tree Peony, Pæonia Moutan. (See May, Pæonia.)
Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.* 6 in. April-June. Numerous deep pink, small flowers; creeping habit; evergreen. Suitable for dry places as a covering plant.
Trilliums.* Of several species; always attractive and useful in the border (Fig. 252). They are common in rich woods and copses. Dig the tubers in late summer and plant them directly in the border. The large ones will bloom the following spring. The same may be said of the erythronium, or dog’s-tooth violet or adder’s tongue, and of very many other early wild flowers.
MAY
Ajuga reptans. 6 in. May-June. Spikes of purple flowers. Grows well in shady places; spreading. A good cover plant.
Madwort, Alyssum saxatile var. compactum. 1 ft. May-June. Flowers fragrant, in clusters, clear golden-yellow. Foliage silvery. Well-drained soil. One of the best yellow flowers.
Columbine, Aquilegia glandulosa and others (Fig. 253). 1 ft. May-June. Deep blue sepals; white petals. Aquilegias are old favorites. (See June.) The wild A. Canadensis* is desirable.
Lily-of-the-Valley, Convallaria majalis.* 8 in. May-June. Racemes of small white bells; fragrant. Well known. Partial shade. (See Chap. VIII.)
Fumitory, Corydalis nobilis. 1 ft. May-June. Large clusters of fine yellow flowers. Bushy, upright habit. Does well in partial shade.
Bleeding-Heart, Dicentra spectabilis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June. Well known. Racemes of heart-shaped, deep pink and white flowers. Will bear partial shade.
Crested Iris, Iris cristata.* 6 in. May-June. Flowers blue, fringed with yellow. Leaves sword-shaped.
German Iris, I. Germanica. 12-15 in. May-June. Numerous varieties and colors. Large flowers, 3-4 on a stem. Broad, glaucous, sword-shaped leaves.
Peony, Pæonia officinalis. 2 ft. May-June. This is the well-known herbaceous peony. There are numerous varieties and hybrids.
[Illustration: Figure 253. One of the columbines.]
Large flowers, 4-6 in. across. Crimson, white, pink, yellowish, etc. Suitable for lawn or the border. Fig. 250.
Tree Peony, P. Moutan. 4ft. April-May. Numerous named varieties. Flowers as above, excepting yellow. Branched, dense, shrubby habit.
Meadow Sage, Salvia pratensis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June, August. Spikes of deep blue flowers. Branching from the ground.
JUNE
Achillea Ptarmica, fl. pl., var. “The Pearl.” 1/2 ft. June-August. Small double white flowers, in few-flowered clusters. Rich soil.
Wind-flower, Anemone Pennsylvanica.* 18 in. June-September. White flowers on long stems. Erect habit. Does well in the shade.
St. Bruno’s Lily, Paradisea Liliastrum. 18 in. June-July. Bell-like, white flowers in handsome spikes.
Golden-spurred Columbine, Aquilegia chrysantha.* 3 ft. June-August. Golden flowers with slender spurs; fragrant.
Rocky Mountain Columbine, A. cœrulea.* 1 ft. June-August. Flowers with white petals and deep blue sepals, 2-3 in. in diameter. (See May.)
Woodruff, Asperula odorata. 6 in. June-July. Small white flowers. Herbage fragrant when wilted. Does well in shade; spreading habit. Used for flavoring drinks, scenting and protecting garments.
Astilbe Japonica (incorrectly called Spiræa). 2 ft. June-July. Small white flowers in a feathery inflorescence. Compact habit.
Poppy Mallow, Callirrhoë involucrata.* 10 in. June-October. Large crimson flowers, with white centers. Trailing habit. For border and rockery.
Carpathian Harebell, Campanula Carpatica (Fig. 254). 8 in. June-September. Flowers deep blue. Tufted habit. For border or rockery. Good for cutting.
C. glomerata var. Dahurica. 2 ft. June-August. Deep purple flowers in terminal clusters. Branching from the ground. Erect habit.
Canterbury Bell, C. Medium. An old favorite. It is biennial, but blooms the first season if sown early.
Corydalis lutea. 1 ft. June-September. Flowers yellow, in terminal clusters. Loose branching habit. Glaucous foliage.
Scotch Pink, Dianthus plumarius. 10 in. June-July. White and pink-ringed flowers on slender stems. Densely tufted habit.
[Illustration: Fig. 254. Campanula Carpatica.]
Fringed Pink, D. superbus. 18 in. July-August. Fringed flowers. Lilac tint.
Gas Plant, Dictamnus Fraxinella. 3 ft. June. Flowers purple, showy, fragrant; in long spikes. Regular habit. Var. alba. White.
Gaillardia aristata.* 2 ft. June-October. Showy orange and maroon flowers on long stems. Good for cutting. Hybrid gaillardias offer quite a variety of brilliant colors.
Heuchera sanguinea.* 18 in. June-September. Flowers in open panicles, scarlet, on clustered stems from a tufted mass of pretty foliage.
Japan Iris, Iris laevigata (I. Kaempferi). 2-3 ft. June-July. Large flowers of various colors, in variety. Green, sword-like leaves. Dense tufted habit. Prefers a moist situation.
Blazing Star, Liatris spicata.* 2 ft. June-August. Spikes of fine, small purple flowers. Slender foliage. Unbranched, erect stems. Will grow in the poorest soil.
Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule.* 1 ft. June-October. Bright yellow flowers. A close, dense habit. Erect, naked stems. The varieties Album, white, and Miniatum, deep orange, are also desirable.
Oriental Poppy, P. orientale. 2-4 ft. June. Flowers 6-8 in. across; deep scarlet, with a purple spot at the base of each petal. There are other varieties of pink, orange, and crimson shades.
Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.* 3-4 ft. June-September. Crimson flowers in long spikes. Branching from the base. Erect habit.
XII. The back yard, with heavy flower-garden planting.
Perennial Phlox, Phlox paniculata* and hybrids with P. maculata.* 2-3 ft. June. A great variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms. Flowers borne in large, flat panicles. (Figs. 246, 248.)
Rudbeckia maxima* 5-6 ft. August. Large flowers; cone-like center and long, drooping, yellow petals.
Dropwort, Ulmaria Filipendula. 3 ft. June-July. White flowers in compact clusters. Tufted foliage, dark green and handsomely cut. Erect stems. (Often referred to Spiræa.)
Adam’s Needle, Yucca filamentosa.* 4-5 ft. June-July. Waxen white, pendulous, liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus. Leaves long, narrow, dark green, with marginal filaments. For the lawn, and for massing in large grounds.
JULY
Hollyhock, Althæa rosea. 5-8 ft. Summer and fall. Flowers white, crimson, and yellow, lavender and purple. Stately plants of spire-like habit; useful for the back of the border, or beds and groups. The newer double varieties have flowers as fine as a camellia. The plant is nearly biennial, but in rich, well-drained soil and with winter protection it becomes perennial. Easily grown from seed, blooming the second year. Seeds may be sown in August in frames and carried over winter in the same place. The first year’s bloom is usually the best.
Yellow Chamomile, Anthemis tinctoria. 12-38 in. July-November. Flowers bright yellow, 1-2 in. in diameter. Useful for cutting. Dense, bushy habit.
Delphinium Chinense. 3 ft. July-September. Variable colors; from deep blue to lavender and white. Fine for the border.
D. formosum. 4 ft. July-September. Fine spikes of rich blue flowers. One of the finest blue flowers cultivated.
Funkia lancifolia. (See under August.)
Helianthus multiflorus* var. fl. pl. 4 ft. July-September. Large double flowers, of a fine golden color. Erect habit. An excellent flower.
Lychnis Viscaria var. flore pleno. 12-15 in. July-August. Double, deep rose-red flowers in spikes. For groups and masses.
Monarda didyma.* 2 ft. July-October. Showy scarlet flowers in terminal heads.
Pentstemon grandiflorus.* 2 ft. July-August. Leafy spikes of showy purple flowers.
P. lœvigalus var. Digitalis.* 3 ft. July-August. Pure white flowers in spikes, with purple throats.
Platycodon grandiflorum (Campanula grandiflora). 3 ft. July-September. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Dense, fine, erect habit.
P. Mariesi. 1 ft. July-September. Flowers larger; deep violet-blue. Heavier foliage.
AUGUST
Day Lily, Funkia subcordata. 18 in. August-October. Trumpet, lily-like, pure-white flowers in clusters, borne upon a stalk from the midst of a group of heart-shaped green leaves.
F. lancifolia var. albo-marginata. July-August. Lavender flowers. Lance-like leaves margined with white.
Flame Flower, Kniphofia aloides (Tritoma Uvaria). 3 ft. August-September. Bright orange-scarlet flowers, in close, dense spikes, at the summit of several scape-like stems. Leaves slender, forming a large tuft. For lawn and borders. Hardy only when covered with litter or straw in winter.
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis.* 2-1/4-4 ft. August-September. Flowers intense cardinal-red, of unrivaled brilliancy. Tall spikes. Stems clustered; erect.
Giant Daisy, Chrysanthemum (or Pyrethrum) uliginosum. 3-5 ft. July-October. Flowers white, with golden centers. About 2 in. across. A stout, upright, bushy plant. Useful for cutting.
Golden Glow, Rudbeckia laciniata.* 6-7 ft. August-September. Large double golden-yellow flowers in great profusion. Bushy habit. Cut off when done flowering. Leaves appear at the base and a new crop of flowers, on stems about 1 ft. high, appear in October.
Goldenrod, Solidago rigida.* 3-5 ft. August-October. Flowers large for this genus, in close, short racemes in a corymbose-paniculate cluster. Fine, deep yellow. Erect habit. One of the best of the goldenrods.
Japanese Wind-flower, Anemone Japonica. 2 ft. August-October. Flowers large, bright red. One of the best autumn flowers.
A. Japonica var. alba. Flowers pure white, with yellow centers. Fine for cutting.
OCTOBER
Hardy Chrysanthemums. The Chinese and Japanese Chrysanthemums, so well known, are hardy in light, well-drained soils, if well protected with litter or leaves during the winter, and in such situations will stand without protection south of Indianapolis. Chrysanthemums are gross feeders, and should have a rich soil.
But there is a race of hardier or border chrysanthemums that is again coming into favor, and it is sure to give much satisfaction to those who desire flowers in latest fall. These chrysanthemums are much like the “artemisias” of our mother’s gardens, although improved in size, form, and in range of color.
One hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs.
The following list of 100 “best hardy perennials” is adapted from a report of the Central Experimental Farm, Ottawa, Ontario. These plants are chosen from over 1000 species and varieties that have been on trial at that place. Those considered to be the best twenty-five for Canada are marked by a dagger †; and those native to North America by an asterisk *.
Achillea Ptarmica flore pleno.—Height, 1 foot; in bloom fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, double, and borne in clusters; blooming freely throughout the summer. †
Aconitum autumnale.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; September; flowers, bluish purple, borne in loose panicles.
Aconitum Napellus.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; July; flowers, deep blue, borne on a large terminal spike; desirable for the rear of the border.
Adonis vernalis.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of May; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, borne singly from the ends of the stems.
Agrostemma (Lychnis) Coronaria var. atropurpurea.—Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, medium size, bright crimson, borne singly from the sides and ends of the stems; a very showy plant with silvery foliage, and continues to bloom throughout the summer.
Anemone patens.*—Height 6 to 9 inches; fourth week of April; flowers, large, and deep purple.
Anthemis tinctoria var. Kelwayi.—Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems; it continues to bloom profusely throughout the summer; is very showy and valuable for cutting. †
Aquilegia Canadensis.*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; third week of May; flowers, medium size, red and yellow.
Aquilegia chrysantha.*—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, bright lemon-yellow, with long slender spurs; much later than other columbines. †
Aquilegia cœrulea.*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and long spurs. †
Aquilegia glandulosa.—Height, 1 foot; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and short spurs.
Aquilegia oxysepala.—Height, 1 foot; second week in May; flowers, large, deep purplish blue with blue and yellow centers; a very desirable early species.
Aquilegia Stuarti.—Height 9 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center; one of the best.
Arabis alpina.—Height, 6 inches; first week in May; flowers, small, pure white, in clusters.
Arnebia echioides.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, yellow, borne in clusters with petals spotted with purple. One of the most charming of early flowering plants.
Asclepias tuberosa.*—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; third week of July. Flowers, bright orange, borne in clusters. Very showy.
Aster alpinus.*—Height, 9 inches; first week of June; flowers, large, bright purple, borne on long stems from the base of the plant; the earliest flowering of all the asters.
Aster Amellus var. Bessarabicus.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; July to September; flowers, large, deep purple, singly on long stems; very fine. †
Aster Novæ-Anglæ var. roseus.*—Height, 5 to 7 feet; fourth week of August; flowers, bright pink, borne profusely in large terminal clusters; very showy.
Boltonia asteroides*—Height, 4 to 5 feet; September; flowers, smaller than the next, pale pink, borne very profusely in large panicles; much later than the next species.
Boltonia latisquama*—Height, 4 feet; first week of August; flowers, large, white, somewhat resembling asters, and borne very profusely in large panicles.
Campanula Carpatica.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of July; flowers, medium size, deep blue, borne profusely in loose panicles; continues in bloom throughout the summer. A white variety of this is also good.
Campanula Grossekii.—Height, 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, deep blue, borne on a long spike.
Campanula persicifolia.—Height, 3 feet; flowers, large, blue, borne in a raceme with long flower stems. There are also white and double varieties which are good.
Clematis recta.—Height, 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, borne profusely in dense clusters. This is a very compact bushy species and desirable for the rear of the border. Clematis Jackmani with large deep purple flowers and Clematis Vitalba with small white flowers, are excellent climbing sorts.
Convallaria majalis* (Lily-of-the-valley).—Height, 6 to 9 inches; latter part of May.
Coreopsis delphiniflora.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, yellow, with dark centers and borne singly with long stems.
Coreopsis grandiflora.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems, blooming profusely throughout the summer.
Coreopsis lanceolata.*—Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers large though slightly smaller than the last, and borne on long stems, blooming throughout the season.†
Delphinium Cashmerianum.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, pale to bright blue, in large open heads.†
Dianthus plumarius flore pleno.—Height, 9 inches; second week of June; flowers, large, white or pink, very sweet scented; and two or three borne on a stem. A variety called Mrs. Simkins is especially desirable, being very double, white and deliciously perfumed, almost equaling a carnation. It blooms the fourth week of June.
Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart).—Height, 3 feet; second week of May; flowers, heart-shaped, red and white in pendulous racemes.
Dictamnus albus.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, white with an aromatic fragrance, and borne in large terminal racemes. A well-known variety has purple flowers with darker markings.
Doronicum Caucasicum.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.
Doronicum plantagineum var. excelsum.—Height, 2 feet; third week of May; flowers, large and deep yellow.†
Epimedium rubrum.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, small, bright crimson and white, borne in a loose panicle. A very dainty and beautiful little plant.
Erigeron speciosus.*—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, violet-blue, with yellow centers, and borne in large clusters on long stems.
Funkia subcordata (grandiflora).—Height, 1-1/2 feet; August; flowers, large and white, borne in racemes. The best funkia grown at Ottawa; both leaves and flowers are handsome.
Gaillardia aristata var. grandiflora.*—Height, 1 1/2 feet; third week of June; flowers, large, yellow, with deep orange centers, and borne singly on long stems. The named varieties, Superba and Perfection, are more highly colored and are of great merit. These all continue blooming profusely until late in the autumn.†
Gypsophila paniculata (Infant’s breath).—Height, 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, white, borne profusely in large open panicles.
Helenium autumnale*—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne in large heads; very ornamental in late summer.
Helianthus doronicoides.*—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of August; flowers, large, bright yellow, and borne singly; continues blooming for several weeks.
Helianthus multiflorus.*—Height, 4 feet; flowers, large, double, bright yellow, and borne singly; a very striking late-flowering perennial.
Heuchera sanguinea*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, small, bright, scarlet, borne in open panicles; continues blooming throughout the summer.
Hemerocallis Dumortierii.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of June; flowers, large, orange-yellow, with a brownish tinge on the outside, and three or four on a stem.†
Hemerocallis flava.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of June; flowers, bright orange-yellow and fragrant.†
Hemerocallis minor.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, medium size and yellow; blooms later than the two preceding species and has a smaller flower and narrower foliage.
Hibiscus Moscheutos.*—Height, 5 feet; third week of August; flowers, very large, varying in color from white to deep pink. A variety called “Crimson Eye” is very good. This plant makes a fine show in late summer.
Hypericum Ascyron (or pyramidatum).*—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.
Iberis sempervirens.—Height, 6 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, pure white, fragrant, and borne in dense flat clusters.†
Iris Chamœiris.—Height, 6 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, bright yellow with brown markings.
Iris flavescens.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, lemon-yellow with brown markings.
Iris Florentina.—Height, 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, pale blue or lavender, sweet scented.†
Iris Germanica.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, of elegant form; color, deep lilac and bright purple, sweet scented. There is a large number of choice varieties of this iris.†
Iris lœvigata (Kœmpferi).—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of July; flowers, purple and modified colors, very large and distinct in color and shape.†
Iris pumila.—Height, 4 to 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, deep purple. There are several varieties.
Iris Sibirica.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, deep blue, borne on long stems in clusters of two or three. This species has many varieties.
Iris variegata.—Height, 1 to 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, yellow and brown, veined with various shades of brown.
Lilium auratum.—Height, 3 to 5 feet; July; flowers, very large, white, with a yellow central band on each petal, and thickly spotted with purple and red. The most showy of all lilies and a splendid flower. This has proved hardy at the Central Experimental Farm, although it has been reported tender in some localities.†
Lilium Canadense.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of May; flowers, yellow to pale red with reddish spots, pendulous.
Lilium elegans.—Height, 6 inches; first week of July; flowers, pale red; several varieties are better than the type.
Lilium speciosum.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; July; flowers, large, white, tinged and spotted with deep pink and red. Hardier than Lilium auratum and almost as fine. There are several fine varieties.†
Lilium superbum.*—Height, 4 to 6 feet; first week of July; flowers, very numerous, orange red, thickly spotted with dark brown. An admirable lily for the rear of the border. †
Lilium tenuifolium.—Height, 1 1/2 to 2 feet; third week of June; flowers, pendulous and bright scarlet. One of the most graceful of all lilies.
Lilium tigrinum.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; flowers, large, deep orange, spotted thickly with purplish black.
Linum perenne.—Height, 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, large deep blue, borne in loose panicles, continuing throughout the summer.
Lobelia cardinalis.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; August; flowers, bright scarlet, borne in terminal racemes; very showy.
Lychnis Chalcedonica flore pleno.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, bright crimson, double, and borne in terminal racemes.
Lysimachia clethroides.—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, white, borne in long spikes. A very striking late-flowering perennial.
Myosotis alpestris.—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, bright blue with a yellowish eye. A very profuse bloomer.
Œnothera Missouriensis.*—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, very large, rich yellow, and borne singly, throughout the summer.
Pœonia officinalis.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; early part of July. The double-flowered varieties are the best, and can be obtained in several colors and shades, †
Papaver nudicaule*—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, medium size, orange, white, or yellow, almost continuously until late autumn. †
Papaver orientale.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, scarlet, and variously marked, according to variety, there being many forms.
Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, deep red, borne in long spikes, very ornamental.
Phlox amœna.*—Height, 6 inches; second week of May; flowers, medium size, bright pink, in compact clusters.
Phlox decussata* (the garden perennial hybrids).—Height, 1 to 3 feet; third week of July; flowers, of many beautiful shades and colors, are found in the large number of named varieties of this phlox, which continues to bloom until late in the autumn. †
Phlox reptans.*—Height, 4 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, medium size, purple, and borne in small clusters.
Phlox subulata* (setacea).—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium size, deep pink, and borne in small clusters.
Platycodon grandiflorum.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, very large, deep blue, borne singly or in twos.†
Platycodon grandiflorum var. album.—A white-flowered variety of the above and makes a fine contrast to it when they are grown together. It blooms a few days earlier than the species.
Platycodon Mariesii.—Height, 1 foot; second week of July; flowers, large and deep blue.
Polemonium cœruleum.*—Height, 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, deep blue, borne in terminal spikes.
Polemonium reptans.*—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, and borne profusely in loose clusters.
Polemonium Richardsoni.*—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, borne profusely in pendulous panicles.
Potentilla hybrida var. versicolor.—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep orange and yellow, semi-double.
Primula cortusoides.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, deep rose, in compact heads.
Pyrethrum (or Chrysanthemum) uliginosum.—Height, 4 feet; September; flowers, large, white with yellow centers, and borne singly on long stems.
Rudbeckia laciniata* (Golden Glow).—Height, 5 to 6 feet; August; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, double, and borne on long stems. One of the best of lately introduced perennials. †
Rudbeckia maxima.*—Height, 5 to 6 feet; July and August; flowers, large, with a long cone-shaped center and bright yellow rays, and borne singly. The whole plant is very striking.
Scabiosa Caucascia.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, light blue, and borne singly on long stems, very freely throughout remainder of the summer.
Solidago Canadensis* (Golden-rod).—Height, 3 to 5 feet; first week of August; flowers, small, golden yellow, and borne in dense panicles.
Spiræa (properly Aruncus) astilboides.—Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white, very numerous, and borne in many branched panicles. Both foliage and flowers are ornamental.
Spiræa (or Ulmaria) Filipendula.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; third week of June; flowers, pure white, borne profusely in loose panicles. The foliage of this species is also very good. There is a double flowered variety which is very effective. †
Spiræa (Ulmaria) purpurea var. elegans.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, whitish with crimson anthers, borne very profusely in panicles.
Spiræa Ulmaria (Ulmaria pentapetala).—Height, 3 to 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, very numerous, dull white, borne in large compound heads, having a soft, feathery appearance.
Spiræa venusta (Ulmaria rubra var. venusta).—Height, 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, bright pink, borne profusely in large panicles. †
Statice latifolia.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, small, blue, borne very profusely in loose panicles. Very effective in the border.
Thalictrum aquilegifolium.—Height, 4 to 5 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white to purplish, very numerous and borne in large panicles.
Trollius Europæs.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, bright yellow, continuing a long time.
(See the particular culture of the different kinds in Chapter VIII; and instructions for forcing on *p. 345.)
It is customary to write of bulbs and tubers together, because the tops and flowers of all the bulbous and tuberous plants spring from large reservoirs of stored food, giving rise to similar methods of culture and of storage.
Structurally, the bulb is very different from the tuber, however. A bulb is practically a large dormant bud, the scales representing the leaves, and the embryo stem lying in the center. Bulbs are condensed plants in storage. The tuber, on the other hand, is a solid body, with buds arising from it. Some tubers represent thickened stems, as the Irish potato, and some thickened roots, as probably the sweet-potato, and some both stem and root, as the turnip, parsnip, and beet. Some tubers are very bulb-like in appearance, as the corms of crocus and gladiolus.
Using the word “bulb” in the gardener’s sense to include all these plants as a cultural group, we may throw them into two classes: the hardy kinds, to be planted in fall; and the tender kinds, to be planted in spring.
The fall-planted bulbs are of two groups: the “Holland bulbs” or early spring bloomers, as crocus, tulip (Fig. 255), hyacinth (Fig. 262), narcissus (Fig. 260), squill (Fig. 256), snowdrop; the summer bloomers, as lilies (Figs. 258, 259). The treatments of the two groups are so similar that they may be discussed together.
[Illustration Fig: 255. Tulips, the warmest of spring flowers.]
All these bulbs may be planted as soon as they are mature; but in practice they are kept till late September or October before they are put into the ground, as nothing is gained by earlier planting, and, moreover, the ground is usually not ready to receive them until some other crop is removed.
[Illustration: Fig 256. One of the squills.--_Scilla bifolia_.]
These bulbs are planted in the fall (1) because they keep better in the ground than when stored; (2) because they will take root in fall and winter and be ready for the first warmth of spring; (3) and because it is usually impossible to get on the ground early enough in spring to plant them with much hope of success for that season.
The bulbs lie dormant until spring, so far as outward appearances go; they are mulched to insure that they will not start in warm weather of fall or winter, and to protect the ground from heaving.
To secure good bulbs and of the desired varieties, the order should be placed in spring or early summer. For flower-garden effects, the large and mature bulbs should be secured; for colonizing in shrubbery or on the lawn, the smaller sizes may be sufficient. Insist that your bulbs shall be first class, for there is wide difference in the quality; even with the best of treatment, good results cannot be secured from poor bulbs.
[Illustration: Fig. 257. A purple-flowered Amaryllis.--_Lycoris squamigera_, but known as _Amaryllis Hallii_.]
It is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs. Several species of crocus bloom in the fall, C. sativus (the saffron crocus) and C. speciosus being the ones generally recommended. The colchicums are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more generally planted. C. autumnale, rosy purple, is the usual species. These autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in August or early September and treated in general the same as other similar bulbs. The colchicums usually remain in the ground several years in good condition.
[Illustration: Fig. 258. The Japanese gold-banded lily.--_Lilium auratum_]
All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, water-free soil. This is no small part of their successful culture. The spot should be well drained, either naturally or artificially. In flattish and rather moist lands the beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches high, and bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage, and with good results, when other methods are not convenient, and when there is fear that the bed may become too wet. If the place is likely to be rather wet, place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around the bulb. Very good results may be had in heavy soil by this method.
[Illustration: Fig. 259. One of the common wild lilies.--_Lilium Philadelphicum_.]
The soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure. Fresh manure should never be allowed close about the bulb. The addition of leafmold and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils. For lilies the leafmold may be omitted. Let the spading be at least a foot deep. Eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies. To make a bulb bed, throw out the top earth to the depth of 6 inches. Put into the bottom of the bed about 2 inches of well-rotted manure and spade it into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed, and then cover them with the remainder of the earth; in this way one will have the bulbs from 3 to 4 inches below the surface, and they will all be of uniform depth and will give uniform results if the bulbs themselves are well graded. The “design” bed may be worked out easily in this way, for all the bulbs are fully exposed after they are placed, and they are all covered at once.
[Illustration: Fig. 260. Common species of narcissus.--_a a. Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus_ or daffodil; _b._ Jonquil; _c. N. Pœticus_.]
Of course, it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms; but if he wants a good bed as a whole, or a mass effect, he should take this pains. In the shrubberies and on the lawn he may “stick them in” here and there, seeing that the top of the bulb is 3 to 6 inches beneath the surface, the depth depending on the size of the bulb (the bigger and stronger the bulb, the deeper it may go) and on the nature of the soil (they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay).
As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the bed should receive a mulch of leaves, manure or litter, to the depth of 4 inches or more, according to the latitude and the kind of material. If leaves are used, 3 inches will be enough, because the leaves lie close together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground and let the bulbs start. It will be well to let the mulch extend 1 foot or more beyond the margins of the bed. When cold weather is past, half of the mulch should be removed. The remainder may be left on till there is no longer danger of frost. On removing the last of the mulch, lightly work over the surface among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe.
If the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season, the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading—as with muslin, or slats placed above the beds. If planted where they have partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery, the beds will not need attention of this kind.
Lilies may remain undisturbed for years. Crocuses and tulips may stand two years, but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted; tulips also will be better for the same treatment. Narcissus may remain for some years, or until they show signs of running out.
[Illustration: Fig. 261. The Belladonna lily.--_Amaryllis Belladonna_.]
Bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This gives the bulbs a chance to ripen. Cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not uncommon and serious mistake. Bulbs that have been planted in places that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage on and heeled-in under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till ripened. The plant should be injured as little as possible, as the foliage of this year makes the flowers of the next. When the foliage has turned yellow or died down, the bulbs—after cleaning, and curing them for a few hours in the sun—may be stored in the cellar or other cool, dry place, to await fall planting. Bulbs that are lifted prematurely in this way should be planted permanently in the borders, for they will not make good flower-garden subjects the following year. In fact, it is usually best to buy fresh, strong bulbs each year of tulips, hyacinths, and crocuses if the best results are desired, using the old bulbs for shrubberies and mixed borders.
Crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn. It is not to be expected that they will last more than two to three years, however, even if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut. The narcissus (including daffodils and jonquils) will remain in good condition for years in grassy parts of the place, if the tops are allowed to mature.
[Illustration: Fig. 262. The common Dutch hyacinth.]
List of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the North.
Crocus.
Hyacinth.
Tulip.
Narcissus (including daffodil and jonquil).
Scilla, or squill.
Snowdrop (Galanthus).
Snowflake (Leucoium).
Chionodoxa.
Hardy alliums.
Bulbocodium.
Camassia.
Lily-of-the-valley.
Winter aconite (Eranthis hycmalis).
Dog-tooth violets (Erythronium).
Crown imperial (Fritillaria Imperialis).
Fritillary (Fritillaria Mekagris).
Trilliums.
Lilies.
Peonies, tuberous anemones, tuberous buttercups, iris, bleeding heart, and the like, may be planted in autumn and are often classed with fall-planted bulbs.
Some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse, window-garden, or living room in winter. Hyacinths are particularly useful for this purpose, because the bloom is less affected by cloudy weather than that of tulips and crocuses. Some kinds of narcissus also “force” well, particularly the daffodil; and the Paper-white and “Chinese sacred lily” are practically the only common bulbs from which the home gardener may expect good bloom before Christmas. The method of handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under Window-gardening (on *p. 345).
There is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs, as a class. They are tender, and are therefore planted after cold weather is past. For early bloom, they may be started indoors. Of course, any list of spring-planted bulbs is relative to the climate, for what may be planted in spring in New York perhaps may be planted in the fall in Georgia.
The common “summer bulbs” are:—
Gladiolus
Tuberose
Dahlia
Canna
Arum
Calla
Calochortus
Alstremeria
Amaryllis
Colocasia
(Exclusive of coniferous evergreens and climbing plants.)
The common hardy shrubs or bushes may be planted in fall or spring. In the northernmost parts of the country and in Canada spring planting is usually safer, although on well-drained ground and when thoroughly mulched the plants may even there do well if planted as soon as the leaves drop in fall. If the shrubs are purchased in spring, they are likely to have come from “cellared stock”; that is, the nurserymen dig much of their stock in fall and store it in cellars built for the purpose. While stock that is properly cellared is perfectly reliable, that which has been allowed to get too dry or which has been otherwise improperly handled comes on very slowly in the spring, makes a poor growth the first year, and much of it may die.
In the planting of any kind of trees or shrubs, it is well to remember that nursery-grown specimens generally transplant more readily and thrive better than trees taken from the wild; and this is particularly true if the stock was transplanted in the nursery. Trees that transplant with difficulty, as the papaw or asimina, and some nut trees, may be prepared for removal by cutting some of their roots—and especially the tap-root, if they have such—a year or two in advance.