A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger

I learnt with astonishment, that though the river has many crocodiles, they never attack the legs of people passing in this manner. Whether the raft or the bright yellow of the gourds intimidates them I cannot tell, but so it is.

The river, according to the natives, is said to run past Foor— (Dar fur of Brown), and thence to Egypt. Horses are swam over, being buoyed up with inflated water-skins slung round them; and camels are conducted by men who hold them by their long upper lips, and keep their heads above water: the forepart of that animal being the heaviest, another man sits behind the hump, in order to raise the fore and depress the hinder parts, whilst crossing.

Almost every account we received of the Tsād was so materially different, that it long remained a puzzle to us, how to account for such palpable errors as some of our informers must have fallen into. Some declared it to be so large a Lake, that the opposite side of it could not be seen from Birnie; others termed it an inconsiderable river: at last, the nephew of the Kadi, who had just arrived, furnished us with the following clear statement. “The Tsād is not a river, but an immense Lake, into which many streams discharge themselves after the summer rains. It is then, for some months, of such extent, that the opposite shores cannot be seen, and the people catch many fish, and go about on it in boats. In the early part of the spring, when the great heats come on, it soon changes its appearance, and dries up, with the exception of a small rill. This streamlet, which runs through the centre of its bed, is called by the same name, and comes from the westward, taking an easterly direction; but to what place he knows not.”

All the inhabitants of the villages on the borders of the Lake go out and sow corn and esculent vegetables, which come to maturity, and are gathered in before the rainy season, as in Egypt, after the flowing of the Nile, which he has seen. He had himself observed the people getting in their harvest on the same ground which he had, only a few months before, known to be covered with water.

The rivers which, he says, flow into the lake after the rains, appear to be torrents from the mountains, as he never observed more than the small stream I have mentioned in the dry season.

The Tsād is also called the Gambarro after it quits Birnie, and even there it is as frequently called the Nil. Until a few years ago, when the country became much improved under the mild government of a very religious Moslem, it was the custom to throw into the stream at the time of its rise a virgin richly dressed, and of superior beauty. The greatest people of the country considered themselves honoured if the preference was given to one of their daughters, and the learned men augured a good or bad year from the ease or difficulty with which their victim was drowned.

There are several tribes of wandering Tibboo to the northward of Bornou, the principal of which are the Wandela, Gunda, and Traïta. These people are principally Kaffirs: they do not trade, but live by their flocks, and not unfrequently by pillage.

To the eastward of Bornou, near Baghermi, is a country called Mandra, which is tributary to Bornou, but does not escape the incursions for slaves, which are frequently made by its nominal protectors. The language of this country is a corrupt dialect of the Bornou. The people are finely formed, and the females have lively intelligent countenances: they are all Kaffirs, and live in huts of grass, woven like mats, and sewed together, called Booshīa.

I shall have occasion, when speaking of the country of the Tibboo, to mention three rivers of note which I am able to trace to some distance at ten days to the north of Wadāy.

I now return to the accounts of the bearings of several places of note from Bornou.

Birnie Jedeed to

Baghermi, ten long days, east-south-east.

Maoo, principal town of Kanem, fifteen days, north-north-east.

Kanno, ten days, west.

Kooka, fifteen days, east by south.

Kattagum, four days, west-south-west.

Ringhem, nine days, west-south-west.

Shaikoo, two days, west.

Kawar, ten days, north-eastward.

Bilma, fifteen days, north-eastward.

Makaree, eight days, east-south-east.

Ongornoo, fourteen days, east by south.

Zegzeg, fifteen days, south-west.

Zakari, eight days, westerly.

Waday, sixteen days, easterly.

Bahr el Ghazal (south part), ten days, east-north-east.

Kashna, sixteen days, west.

Morzouk, forty days, north.

At Kattagum, a river called Nil by the natives flows across the road from Bornou to Kashna to the north-east. It is of great magnitude, and is passed on rafts; the water is sweet, and full of fish. It rises periodically, and sometimes overflows the country.

Ongornoo is situated within a day of Kooka, and is much frequented by traders in the spring, when a large market is held there, principally for slaves, who are brought from all the surrounding countries in security; a general armistice prevailing during the annual sale. It is subject to Bornou: the people are Mohammedans. A river flows past it to the eastward.

Bahr el Ghazal, the south part of which is about ten days east-north-east of Birnie, runs nearly north-east and south-west for a great distance. It is inhabited by Negro tribes, of whom the greater part are Kaffirs, or, at all events, not Moslems. The nearest part of it to Bornou is about ten days east-north-east. It is an immense wadey, or valley full of trees, and having many inhabitants, who are wanderers. Elephants, rhinoceroses, lions, buffaloes, and the camelopard, or giraffe, called Jimel Allah جمل الله, or God’s camel, by the Arabs, are in great numbers. The natives generally use a kind of corrupt Arabic, though one or two languages peculiar to the country are also spoken.

These people are a fine race, well made, and very active. They wear their hair, which is not woolly, long and plaited. The general dress is leather, but some go entirely naked. The cattle are in such numbers, that parts of the country appear literally covered with them. Great quantities of elephants’ teeth are procured in the woods.

All the accounts of this country agree in one material point, namely, that though called Bahr, there is no river; but that there has been one of great magnitude. Immense bones of unknown animals and fish are frequently found here in a state of petrifaction. The Arabs account for this, by saying, “They went to take them up as bones, but by a deception of Iblis they proved to be stones.” Handsome shells, Beit el Khoot, بيت الخوت or “fishes’ houses,” are often found imbedded in the earth, and retaining a fine polish. Some are so large, that the Negroes make trumpets of them. By their description of the bones and vertebræ, some of the fish must have been ten or twelve feet in length.

Battalïa, which is often called Bahr, appears by some accounts to be near Bahr el Ghazal, while others assert that it is part of it. The same accounts of its having once been a river, and of petrified bones being found in it, are generally believed.

Bornou is governed by a Sultan, who is considered very powerful; but of late years he has allowed the Sheikh of Kanem (which country is dependant) to encroach upon his authority. The Sheikh, who is a great Marāboot, never uses gold or silver in his apparel, and confines himself to four wives; but has several female slaves, who have borne him a multitude of children. He is constantly making war, under the plea of religion, against the neighbouring Kaffirs, and has enriched himself by the immense number of slaves and horses which he has taken. He lives at Kanem, in the chief town Maoo, which is fifteen days north-north-east of Birnie: his name is El Hadge el Ameen. All the traders from Fezzan carry him presents, and consider him as a far greater man than his master, who now lives in a very retired manner.

In Kanem, within one day of Maoo (the capital), is a very large river, which comes from the south-west, and runs to the north-east. It is deep, broad, and full of fish, which the natives dry in the sun, and keep in store for the rainy season; it is called by the people of the country Yaoo, but by the Moorish traders, Nil.

On Mukni’s last excursion in that direction, he made an attack on the defenceless people of Kanem, Moslem as well as Kaffir: and having first burnt their town, pursued them to the banks of the river; many were drowned in attempting to cross it; others were taken out of the water; and the women and children who had not the power of escaping, were caught on the banks; the number of captives made on that day amounting to 1800. The route of Mukni’s army on its return, was over a wide sandy desert, without water for three days. During their journey a tremendous wind arose, which blew the sand about in all directions, and continued to rage in so furious a manner during two entire days, that Mukni and his people were totally at a loss in what direction to proceed. On the second evening, however, it was resolved that a number of the captives should be sent on under a small guard; but many of these poor creatures expired by the way: the remaining few succeeded in finding a watering place. Mukni himself remained until the third morning; when the sand wind still continuing, and his impatience increasing in proportion to the delay, he gave an order that all the remaining slaves should be put to death. This cruel mandate was immediately executed in cold blood on three hundred defenceless beings, whose country he had first entered under the mask of friendship, pretending that he came only to wage war against some states which had injured them. This aggravated cruelty and treachery was therefore the more odious; and his very name, in consequence, is never mentioned by the people of that country without curses on himself and ancestors, which even little children are taught to utter as soon as they can speak. This war on Kanem set the wild tribes in motion, and a ferment arose, which, even three years after, was not appeased. The Sheikh of Kanem, whom I have already mentioned, was fortunate enough, on this dreadful occasion, to escape to Birnie, many of his family having fallen sacrifices to Mukni’s barbarity.

In Bornou there is current a small copper coin of little value, which is struck in the country. Gold is also used, but more generally as an ornament, than as an object of exchange. The people are called Believers, but a great part of them are Kaffirs. Their dresses, in the most civilized parts, are of cotton. Their arms are lances, bows, and arrows: the Sheikh and a few of the Sultan’s guards have muskets; but they are unable to make good powder. It is reported, that in Birnie are 60,000 horsemen, who have armour for themselves and horses, which are small but hardy, and are said not to run as other horses do, but to spring forward by repeated bounds: large ones are in great request, and are chiefly purchased from the Fezzan traders. Wedda, ودّه or cowrie shells, are not used as money, but as ornaments, and bands for the head. The country is very fertile, producing corn and fruits; amongst others the Tamarind, طمر الهندي, or fruit of the Indies. The woods are numerous, and the trees very large and shady: from these the boards are brought on which prayers are written, and children taught to read.

From Tegerry to Kanem is 20 days south by east; Kanem to Bornou is 15 south by west. Many of the Kafflés pass over the countries of the Tibboo, and through the desert of Bilma, from whence they enter on the borders of Bornou. As I intend speaking of these places on a future occasion, the routes I shall there mention may be taken as the nearest.

of kashna and soudan in general.—from morzouk to kashna.

Āghades is a large district, having a town of the same name; it is 36 days from Morzouk in summer, and in winter is sometimes 45. It is 15 or 20 days from Kashna; 20 from Bornou; 6 from Asouda; 3 or 4 from Begzam; 30 in summer, and 35 or 40 in winter, from Ghraat; and 40 from Tuat. The inhabitants are Tuarick of the tribe of Kellewi. It is a larger town than Morzouk; the houses are of mud, and are built in the same style, and of the same size, as in Fezzan: some have a kind of second story. It is surrounded by a wall of mud and stone, of sufficient strength to protect it. There is a very high Mouadden or Minaret to the principal mosque, which the Tuarick affect to consider higher than any in Egypt. The country is independent, and is governed by a Sheikh, who is a Mulatto, and of middle age, named Yusuffah. He is considered as great a man as the Sultan of Fezzan. Dome dates are in great plenty: the common ones are scarce, and never arrive at any degree of perfection. The soil of the country is earth, not sand, and is quite covered with grass. There are large trees, chiefly the Talhh. Corn and vegetables are in plenty, and animal food is very cheap. The people are rigid Moslems.

Kashna is 20 days from Noofy. I here give an account of the road, as we received it from a friend of Horneman’s, who is well acquainted with Soudan.

towns are passed until Noofy, which is a country on the borders of the Nil. Its chief town is Bakkanee; and it was there that Horneman died, in the house of a man called Ali el Felatni. Our informant gave the following account of his having accompanied Horneman from Morzouk to that place. They first became acquainted in Fezzan, from whence they went together with a large Kafflé to Bornou, when they separated. After Horneman had resided three or four months there, they again met in a Kafflé going to Kashna, and associated much together. The people became greatly attached to Horneman, on account of his amiable deportment and skill in medicine; and he was generally considered as a Marāboot. After a short time they proceeded with another party of merchants to Noofy, living together in the house of a man named Ali, of the tribe Fellata. It was Horneman’s custom while on his journeys after quitting Fezzan, to note down the bearings of every tree, mountain, or village, he saw; by which means he might be more easily enabled to know his road again without a guide. His intention was to go on through Dagomba to Ashantee, which is forty days’ journey to the southward. When our merchant left Noofy, he was in good health and spirits, and had not experienced any difficulties; but this man, on arriving in Kashna, heard that Horneman had died of dysentery, a few days after their separation.

The clearest account I have yet heard of the rivers which flow near Kashna is from a person named Mustapha, a son of the old Mamluke who, with his two other sons, was strangled by Mukni. This man fled, and spent some years in Soudan. He has himself passed three rivers, all running from east to west, as he thinks; but will not be positive. One alone is very considerable; fish, alligators, and hippopotami, being found in it. It is very deep, and is passed in boats, and by rafts. He mentions the rivers in the following order:

Kashna to the river Ringhem is seven days east. This river is the smallest; it is deep, but narrow; water quite fresh. A town, called Sankara, is distant one day east.

From Kashna to the river Doodroo is six days nearly south. On this river are canoes, which are hollowed out of a single tree: they have sharp bottoms, not rounded. They are numerous, and serve equally well for fishing, and for ferry-boats from shore to shore.

From Kashna to Kattagum (which again appears east-north-east on the road to Bornou) south-east is ten days. This river is at all times large; but after the rains it overflows the country. During the inundation the natives use rafts floated on gourds, which grow to an extraordinary size. A quantity of these are scooped out, and lashed together; a deck is then formed of brushwood, or bundles of rushes.

The only palpable inaccuracy in his account (and which, indeed, is a great one) is that relating to the course of these rivers: he was by no means certain whether they flowed to or from the east, and always concluded by saying, that he never had thought it worth while to remember the circumstance.

From Kashna to Sakkatoo is nine days and a half west. This place is the residence of Bello, son of the celebrated Fellata chief Hatman Danfodio. It is a walled town of much consideration, three days east of Gooberr, which is also a Fellata town, and one day east of Kebbi (the Cabi of our maps.) The natives are now a settled people, but were once wanderers of the warlike tribe of Fellata, who, some years since, came from the west, and succeeded in overcoming the whole of Soudan, carrying their conquests as far as old Birnie, and causing the Sultan and his people to remove five days farther to the eastward. These conquests have, in the end, occasioned their ruin; for not having it in their power to continue a force in each subjugated country, they became scattered, and were easily driven back by the different tribes who had been subject to them. They now are not found (except in small parties) farther east than Kashna. Their complexion being of a much lighter hue than that of the other tribes, they call themselves white; their colour resembles that of our gipsies in England.

Many female slaves are brought to Morzouk from their nation, and are very handsome women. The men I have never seen, and I understand that in the late wars all the male prisoners were put to death. They walk very erect, and have rather a haughty expression of countenance. These people have been of late chiefly at war with the Tuarick, who are powerful enemies, and harass them continually.

Kashna is still in a great measure dependant on Bello, who appoints its Kaid or Governor. This man is named Mellona Amarroo Delagie, and assumes the title of Sultan in his master’s absence. He makes constant incursions on the countries round him, and is much dreaded; though he sometimes suffers severely from retaliations. His family consists of two hundred Negresses, and the same number of children, which they have borne him. I conceive from a vocabulary, which I subjoin, that the Fellata will be found to be the Foulah of Park: they call themselves Fellan.

From a young woman, who arrived direct from Sakkatoo, I obtained some trifling information. The account she gave of herself was, that as she was leading her cows out to feed, a party of Gooberr people (also Fellata, and subject to the same King), seized and brought her away; but meeting on their progress with some Tuarick, she was sold to them. Her complexion was fair, and she had an intelligent countenance; her legs were much swelled, and her form emaciated. She was called into her master’s presence to give me some words of her language, when I began by asking her how she named a man in her country: thinking I wished to know that of her husband, she looked up, and with tears in her eyes, answered, “Mohammed; but he is alone now;” and then added, “I had a little boy, too, called Mohammed; when I was stolen he had no teeth, and I know not who will suckle him.”

I here subjoin the words she taught me.

Bello, son, as I have said, of the celebrated Fellata Chief, is famed for many very noble actions, and is a man generally beloved. He is a great warrior, and the people about him are very well armed and appointed. He does not, like the other chiefs, seek out the gaudy dresses and toys brought by the Kafflés, but buys up arms of all descriptions. Reverence for his religion, and for those who are eminent in it, are amongst his virtues. I was acquainted with a man who passed himself off as a Shreef, which he was not, and who had been plundered by the Tuarick. Bello actually presented to this impostor one hundred Negresses, thinking that he only offered a slight testimony of respect to the memory of the Prophet in the person of his pretended descendant.

Cowries, or shells, are the current money of Kashna, and all the towns westward: 2000 is the exchange for a dollar. By way of showing their comparative value, it may be mentioned, that a fowl costs five shells, a sheep 600, and a bullock 2500. Corn, rice, and, indeed, all the necessaries of life, are very cheap in Soudan. Rice is purchased at one dollar for 3 cwt. Bullocks are used to carry burthens, and to bring the grain home from the fields. The asses are fine animals, the camels scarce, and dear in some parts.

The people are excellent workers in wood and leather, which they prepare equally well as Europeans, dying it of very fine colours, and sometimes glazing it. Pillows, bags, sandals, jars, and even boxes of leather are brought by the Kafflés, and sold very cheap. Bowls composed of wood, or gourds, are finely carved, and much sought after by the Fezzan traders.

The women make very fine cotton cloth of gay patterns (having generally a great proportion of blue), and of firm texture; but it is remarkable that they never exceed in breadth three inches. Shirts made of these cloths are so very neatly sewed, that it is impossible at first sight to discover the seams.

The natives of Soudan are very ignorant; the few among them who can read find it their interest to make a great display of their knowledge. A man who reads is always respected, and becomes a person of great consideration; his presence being frequently sought for at a high price at births or marriages, in order to prevent the attendance of the devil, who immediately flies from a man capable of reading from the Koran. The power of writing charms, or saffis, is a sure step to riches.

About half the population on the banks of the Nil are Mohammedans in outward forms, but are unacquainted with every part of their religion except the prayers; some, indeed, are quite ignorant even of these, and only acknowledge the unity of God and the excellence of the Prophet. The other half are Pagans. Some nations have no idea of worship, or of a Supreme Being; others pray to the devil; and many are idolaters, and pay homage to any striking object in nature.

All the nations south of the Waters are said to be unbelievers, and to live in a state of nature, resembling in their appearance, manners, and habitations, wild beasts rather than men.

The Moslems have a greater share of superstition and vices than those they call their blind neighbours, and seldom undertake any thing without being first fortified by charms. They are constantly fancying themselves bewitched, attribute every unpleasant occurrence to Iblis; and are so fearful of the “Evil Eye,” that they adopt many strange precautions to avert its baneful effects.

In justice to the poor unenlightened beings whom they make their prey, I must say that I never witnessed such innocence, tenderness, and mildness as most of them evince when brought to Morzouk, particularly at the death of any of their companions in adversity. On these occasions they do not, like their persecutors, scream and make an insincere wailing; but sit silent and in tears, and often refuse their little allowance of food. Should one of the females fall sick, the others nurse, feed, comfort, and very often give up the whole of their scanty meal to the sufferer. I speak merely of the women, for the men are not blessed with very kind hearts; and it would be considered by them as disgraceful to betray any soft and tender feeling. Should a woman have an infant belonging to her, each of her companions in turn will carry and endeavour to amuse it. The women very seldom become sullen, and are lively without being at all boisterous or noisy; they are clean in their persons, very fond of ornaments, tractable and easily taught; but in acquiring knowledge they unfortunately lose much of their native simplicity.

Two days farther west is Kebbi; half a day from which is a large town called Bodinga.

Kashna to Gooberr five or six days west by south. This is a principal Fellāta town, and was for some years the residence of their Sultan. The houses are built in streets, surrounded by a wall, and the adjacent country is very fine. Three days east-north-east of Kashna is Tessawa, a town.

Kanno is fourteen days from Birnie; it is governed by a Sultan, and is a town of note.

Here is a river of the same name, which comes from the countries south of Kashna.

Here the Nil, Goulbi, or Kattagum, passes from behind Kashna about thirteen days south. It runs north-east at this place, and must be crossed.

There is a tribe of Arabs here whose dwelling-place is called Bled Ibrahim Zubbo, from the Sheikh who first established them as a tribe. They are dark men without the negro features.

Kashna is four days east of Zanfara. To the north-east of Kashna three days is a country (not a town) called Daura. The natives are Kaffirs, very numerous, and constantly preyed on by the Fellata. Kebbi is three days north-east of Bakkanee, the chief town of Noofy. Kooka (the Cauga of the maps) is thirty days east by south of Kashna; it is much exposed to the incursions of the people of Waday. Kanno is four days east of Kashna, from which town Zegzeg is four or five days south-west. Yagooba is six days south of the latter place. Yemyem is the Lamlam of the maps. The inhabitants are reputed to be cannibals, and from a circumstance which came under my notice, I have no doubt they are so. A friend of mine had a male slave who came from that country, and who was about ten years of age. I desired a person, who spoke a language understood by the boy, to ask him, as if undesignedly, which part of a man was considered to taste best in his country. He immediately and readily answered, “The breast, which is eaten by the men; the other parts being given to the women and children.” But on further questioning him, it appeared he did not know whether the victims were prisoners or natives.

This country joins Zegzeg to the southward; it is of great extent, and the people are reported to live in a state of nature. Yagooba borders on Yemyem, six days south of Zegzeg. Marādi is a country lying half-way between Kashna and Gooberr, now nearly depopulated by the constant attacks of the Fellāta. The natives are Kaffirs, and go naked, with the exception of a leather wrapper round their loins. They are a very handsome race of people. Tirka in Soudan appears not to be known. There is a watering place of the Tibboo in Borgoo, called Tirki.

Tuat is mentioned in many maps as a town; but it is a large tract of country on the borders of Soudan, inhabited chiefly by Tuarick. It is situated on the Great Desert, and is not very fertile. Fine horses are bred there, and the flocks are numerous. The natives trade with Tembuctoo, Soudan, Ghadams, and Fezzan, but seldom go so far east as Bornou. The chief length of the country is from north to south, and the towns bear very nearly in that direction to each other. The houses are built of stone and mud, and have no second story; many of the towns are walled. Ain el Salah, or the Fountain of Saints, is the principal town. It takes its name from the sanctity of its inhabitants, who have all the credit of being Marāboots. A story is told of its having 366 castles, which were built by the first Mohammedan conquerors of the country; they are said to be of a great height and in fine preservation. I suspect, however, they are pretty nearly of the same description as those of Fezzan, of which we heard so many wonderful accounts, and which proved to be only mud tombs, or remains of old houses. From Morzouk to this place is about forty days’ journey.

Between Tadera and Amaghi is a desert, which is travelled eight days without water. All the road is sand without any other vegetation than a few occasional shrubs, from Morzouk to Ain el Sala, which is the northern town in Tuat, and the first reached by all the Kafflés from the coast of Morocco. Tafilet is ten days north-west of it. Tombuctoo, or Tembuctoo, is fifty days from Ain el Sala, and the road is entirely over a desert. The first place from Ain el Sala is Akably, a very large town, which is two days. From thence to Mabrook is thirty-five days: this place is so called from its being the custom for those who have passed the Desert to rest and refresh there, each congratulating the other on having safely arrived over their perilous road, by the usual salutation of “Mabrook,” which signifies joy or happiness. Hence to Tembuctoo is fifteen days. Ghadams, belonging to the Bashaw of Tripoli, is twenty days north-north-west of Ain el Sala.

Tembuctoo is about 90 days’ journey from Morzouk, and the road thence is through Tuat. From the account given by merchants, it appears that it is not so large a town as has been imagined; and indeed some agree in saying, that it is not more extensive than Morzouk. It is walled; the houses are very low, and with the exception of one or two small streets, are built irregularly. Huts of mats seem to be in greater numbers than the houses.

The merchants to whom I suggested the idea, generally agreed with me, that the immense population which is said to exist there, may be thus accounted for. Many of the kafflés from Morocco, Ghadams, Tripoli, and the Negro states along the banks of the Nil, are obliged to remain there during the rainy season, or until their goods are sold. During their stay, they find it necessary to build huts or houses, to shelter themselves and their merchandise. These buildings are got up in a few days; and thus, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand inhabitants may, in the course of a month, be added to the population, which occasions Tembuctoo to be thought an immense town by those who are only there at the same time as other strangers; but when the causes which detain the travellers cease, the place appears (what in reality it is said to be) insignificant. Thus it is that the accounts of it differ so much.

Kabra, which is its port, is situated south of it about 12 miles, and a person on foot may easily walk to and return from it in a day. It is more properly a collection of store-houses than a town; the few people residing there being employed to take care of the cargoes of vessels. Large boats from Jenne come and unload at this place. The river, called Goulbi or Nil (the former name is Soudan, merely a generic term for all waters, and by no means applicable to the Niger alone), is here very broad, and flows slowly past from the westward. Many people agree in saying, that in the dry season, a camel may pass over it without swimming; but after the rains, it becomes very deep, rapid, and dangerous.

Tembuctoo is governed by a King or Sultan, who has but little power. The people are all blacks, and dress like the natives of many parts of Soudan; the better class in shirts and trowsers, while the poorer order are nearly naked. Gold, cotton clothes, leather, and arms, are the principal manufactures of Tembuctoo and the surrounding villages. Jenne is said to be the place from which gold comes, and is thence called Bledd el Tibbr بلد التبر, or the country of gold.

I could obtain no account of Mr. Park, but every one agreed that it would be quite impossible (the buildings being so small and ill constructed) for him or any other white man to be confined in the town unknown to the traders, who enter every house, not excepting that of the Sultan himself. This, I think, entirely confutes the idea that Mr. Park has been, or is still confined by the Sultan, on account of his skill in surgery; and there is equal reason to doubt his being in existence, which some have supposed. Many Jews trade from Morocco, which, as they differ from the Mohammedans in their customs, has given rise to the report that there are Christians in the country; they are said to be circumcised, eat no pork, kill their animals in a peculiar way, and neither acknowledge Christ nor Mohammed. A nation of these people is said to exist south of Tembuctoo, the language of which place is peculiar to itself,—though Arabic is a little spoken; the people are regarded as good Moslems.

Here the intelligence of my informant ceased.

The King of Tembuctoo is an old man, named Kaoo, which, I believe, means governor or master; his wife is an old woman, and he has many concubines. The Sultanship is hereditary.—Tembuctoo is distant from Downa, a large town or district on the banks of the Nil, one day and a half east. Arowan is north of the city seven days, and is a place of consequence. Ezawen is east twenty days, and is also a large town. Taudenny, from whence the large kafflés, who bring rock salt, come annually, is twenty-four days north of Tembuctoo. Telemsen, which is twelve days north of the latter, or indeed half-way to Taudenny, is remarkable for a desert, having no water for ten days; thence called Asherïa. Mabrook is three days north of this place, ten days south of Taudenny, seven days east of Arowan, and eighteen days south of Awlef in Tuat.

Sala is a place three days from Tembuctoo, on the Nil to the eastward.

The Nil, Goulbi, Joliba or Kattagum, runs from Tembuctoo, through Melli in the country of the Fellata; thence to Kebbi, which is three days north of Nooffy: past this place or country, it runs to Yaowri, which is seven days east; from thence to Fendah, a Fellāta country S.W. of Kashna, which latter kingdom it passes at thirteen days south of the capital. It again makes its appearance at Kattagum, four days W.S.W. of the capital of Bornou, where it runs into a lake, called the Tsaad. Beyond this lake, a large river runs through Baghermee, and is called the Gambarro and Kamadakoo; the word Nil being also used for the same stream.—Thus far are we able to trace the Nil, and all other accounts are merely conjectural. All agree, however, that by one route or other, these waters join the great Nile of Egypt, to the southward of Dongola.

Wangara is a place of which we cannot obtain any decided account; it is, however, generally supposed to be a low country, and sometimes inundated. One person states it to be twenty days south of Tembuctoo; another places it south of Kashna; and many even assert, that it is beyond Waday: but it is quite impossible from the varied accounts given of it, to form any idea as to its actual situation, or even existence.

Should there really be three places so called, may it not be probable that it is a general name for marshes and swamps? In the one spoken of behind Tembuctoo, the capital is said to be Battagoo, and is a large town, near which much gold is reported to be found. An invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold, lay their merchandise in heaps, and retire. In the morning, they find a certain quantity of gold dust placed against every heap, which, if they think sufficient, they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain until more of the precious ore is added. These traders in gold dust are by many supposed to be devils, who are very fond of red cloth, the favourite article of exchange. I cannot conceive Arabs to be the merchants, for assuredly they would, least of all people, refrain from stealing the gold thus temptingly placed in their view.

Haousa, Soudan or Afnoo, may be comprehended between Kanno, which is four days east of Kashna, and the borders of Tembuctoo. It appears, that the name only extends to the country which runs east and west, near the great river; for Aghades, which is north of Kashna, is not in Soudan: neither is Yemyem, which is south.

Soudan is an Arabic word, signifying the black country; and is also named by them Ber el Abeed بار البيد or “Land of Slaves;” but the natives all agree in calling it Haousa, which has been mistaken for a town. The language of the country, of which I shall give a specimen, is called by the people, “Haousa Tongue.”

Bornou is comprehended between Kanno and Baghermee. The people of Waday bring dried fish from a large river to the East of Baghermee to Wara, the capital.

I did not find any one who knew any thing of Solan, Berissa, Tirka, Gana, or Noro. People are said to go constantly from Noofy to the Great Sea, to trade with the Whites, and they even bring back crockery ware, powder, brandy, and arms. One of our informants went so far as to assert, that there were one or two people there who understood the language of the Whites. I must observe, that from Kanno to Zegzeg the road is dry even in winter; but in summer in many places the country is covered with water, which for forty days gives it the appearance of a great lake. Our present informant, an observing man, said that he saw no rivers flowing there; but the water which was “sleeping” came, as he supposed, from the Nil of Kashna. He remained trading in Zegzeg until the inundation was over, and made some great bargains. For seven yards of red cloth, resembling baize, he purchased nine females, three of whom he showed to me; they were grown up girls, and very handsome, taken from Yagooba.

CHAPTER IV.