Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

• ANTISEPTICS, 32
• Automatic looms, 198
• BACKED cloths, with weft, 255;
• with warp, 257
• Barley-corn patterns, 235
• Beaming, press, 47
• —— tension, 47
• Beating up the weft, 72, 85
• ——, character of motion in, 72, 73
• ——, distance moved by slay whilst the crank moves through given
• angle in, 74
• ——, eccentricity of slay’s movement in, 72;
• cause of, 74
• ——, effect of altering position of crank-shaft in, 83;
• of reversing direction of crank in, 84
• ——, force of slay in, 78, 82
• ——, position of crank in, 72
• Becks, size mixing, 30
• Brake, 95
• CALCULATION for two or more fold yarns, 308
• —— of contraction for different weaves and counts, 326
• —— of cost of a piece, 325
• —— of counts of yarn from weighing given length, 329
• Calculation of diameter of yarn, 336
• Calculation of number of threads of given counts required to make a
• firm cloth in any weave, 341
• —— of quantity of warp and weft in a piece, 311–313
• —— of reeds and setts, 310
• —— of weaving wage, 324
• —— of weight of a given length of any counts, 330
• —— to make a cloth of equal firmness to given cloth when changing
• weave, 338
• —— to preserve firmness and alter weight, 343
• —— to preserve firmness when changing threads per inch, 341
• —— to preserve same firmness when changing counts, 341
• Card-cutting machine, 190
• —— repeater, 191
• Casting out, 285
• Checks produced by re-arranging twills, 241
• Circular-box motion, 115
• Clearer guide, 8
• Clipped or sheared cloths, 254
• Coiling motions. _See_ Taking-up
• Combined twills, 226
• Cop winding machine, 6
• Cording plan for hand loom, 50
• Cords, 245
• Corkscrew twills, 257
• Counts of cotton yarns, 307
• Counts of two or more unequal threads twisted together, 308;
• and weight of each required in given weight of resulting
• thread, 309
• Cover on cloth, 86, 87
• Crapes, 248
• Crimp cloth, 249
• DAMASK or twilling Jacquards, 168–172
• Design, transferring from sketch to point paper, 281
• Detached figures, spots, arrangement of, 278–281
• Development of pattern, 282–285
• Diagonals, fancy, produced by combining unequal twills, 240
• —— figured, 289
• Diameters of cotton yarns, 335
• Diapers, 233
• Dice checks, 234
• Direction of twist in yarns, effect of, 304
• Dobbies, timing of movements in, 129
• —— undermotions for, 130, 131
• Dobby, the Blackburn, 127;
• knife motion for, 127;
• character of shed in, 129
• ——, the Keighley double-lift, 123;
• method of pegging for, 126;
• double jacks in, 126;
• character of shed in, 125;
• made positive, 129
• Double cloths, 259
• —— bound by passing back pick over face end, 261
• —— bound by passing back end over face pick, 262
• —— plain clothes, figuring, 263;
• bound together, 266
• —— shed Jacquard, 157
• —— twill cloth figuring, 300
• —— warp face, 257
• Double weft face, 255
• Double-beat slay, 135
• Doup heald, 173
• Draft, arranging on point paper, 227
• —— the V, 230; patterns produced by, 230–233
• Drawing-in, 3
• Drills, 224
• Drop-box motion, Diggle’s, 107
• —— in pick-and-pick loom, 116;
• connected to Jacquard, 120
• —— Whitesmith’s, 112
• —— Wright Shaw’s, 109
• Drum winding machine, 13, 14
• EDLESTON harness, 166
• —— —— designing for, 294
• Extra warp, figuring with, 250;
• reeding of, 252
• —— —— and extra weft combined, 255
• —— weft, figuring with, 252
• —— figure on mock leno ground, 254
• FANCY effects produced by warp and weft pulling each other out of
• straight line, 249
• Fast reeds, 91
• Figured design, 278
• —— leno designing, 295
• Firmness of cloth, 333
• GAUZE, plan of, 173
• “Gloy,” 33
• Grey warps, preparation of, 2
• HAND-LOOM, 48
• Hattersley weft-replenishing device, 214
• Heck of warping mill, 22
• Honeycomb designs, 242
• Huck patterns, 250
• JACQUARD card cutting, 142, 190
• —— damask or twilling, 168–172
• —— damask, Tschorner and Wein, 172
• —— double-shed, 157
• —— for cross-border, 155
• —— for leno weaving, 181
• —— harness, bordered pattern, Norwich tie, 151;
• London tie, 153
• —— centre pattern or point tie, 154
• —— Edleston’s, 166;
• designing for,167, 294
• —— for all-over pattern, 139
• —— London tie, 150
• —— Norwich tie, 144, 150
• —— machine, origin of, 137
• —— sizes of, 150
• —— difference in character of shed between single and
• double-lift, 137, 144–148
• —— double-lift, single-cylinder, 144;
• principle of, 145
• —— double-lift, double-cylinder, 146;
• advantages of, 144
• —— single-lift, 138
• —— open-shed, 158
• —— pressure harness, 161–166
• —— split harness, 160
• Jeans, jeanettes, 220
• KEIGHLEY dobby, 123
• Kenyon’s undermotion for dobbies, 131
• LACE and leno stripes, 269
• Lags, pegging of, 126
• Lappet loom, 193
• —— wheel, construction of, 195
• Lappets, 192
• Leno checks, 268
• —— crossovers, 175
• Leno effects, 266
• —— full cross, 181
• —— Jacquards, designing for, 185
• —— double-lift, 186
• ——, imitation of, 186
• —— net or lace, 176
• —— selvedge, 132
• —— weaving in dobbies, 174–180;
• use of slackener in, 174;
• arrangement of staves and pegging plan, 175–178;
• shaking motion for double-lift dobbies, 178;
• arrangement of slackeners for two doups, 180
• Letting-off, 106
• Linen yarns, counts of, 307
• List of prices for weaving, New Uniform, 314–322;
• Chorley, 322
• Loose reeds, 92
• MARKING mechanism in slashing frame, 35
• Marseilles quilts, 298
• Mildew, 32
• Mitcheline, 299
• Mock lenos, 243
• Mono-coloured warps, preparation of, 3
• Multi-coloured warps, preparation of, 5
• NET lenos, 267
• Northrop weft-replenishing device, 210
• OSCILLATING tappets, 61
• PADDED cloths, 258
• Patterns produced by combining alternate picks of twills, 240
• —— by combining equal twills, 226;
• unequal twills, 240
• —— by drafting, 227
• Patterns by fancy drafts, 238
• —— by re-arrangement of simple twills, 236;
• and of combined twills, 237
• Pegging plan making, 228
• Pick-and-pick loom, 116
• Pick, force of, 69
• Picking, over pick, 68, 69
• —— under pick, 71
• Pile fabrics, warp, 189
• —— weft, 270–277
• Piqués, 258
• Pirn winding machine, 15
• —— —— —— disc, 17
• Plain cloth, 218
• —— draft for weaving, 219
• —— number of threads possible in, 218
• —— ornamentation of, 218
• Plushes, 189, 275
• Point draft, 230
• Point paper, selection of, for different proportions of warp and
• weft, 290
• —— use of, 219
• Power-loom, tappet shedding motions in, 51–68
• Preparatory processes, 1
• Presser roller, expanding, 27
• Pressure harness, designing for, 292
• —— harnesses, 161–166
• Primary movements in weaving, 48
• —— timing of, 85–87
• Protector, loose reed, 91
• —— stop rod, 92
• REEDS and setts, 310
• Ribs and cords, 245
• Roller top motion for plain cloth, 62;
• 3 staves, 64;
• 4 staves, 64;
• 5 staves, 65;
• 7 staves, 66
• SACK weaving, 259
• Satin draft, 229
• —— weaves, 222
• Satin, principle of construction of, 224
• Scotch dressing, 42
• Section blocks, expanding, 27
• —— tappets, Woodcroft’s, 59, 60
• Sectional warping, 23
• Selvedge motion in sateen loom, 134, 135
• Set figures, arrangement of, 278–281
• Shading, 283
• Shedding motions, power-loom, 51–68
• Silk yarns, thrown or net, numbering of, 307
• Sines and cosines, table of, 81
• Singleton’s stop-motion, 19
• Size mixing, 28
• —— —— for light sizing, 30
• —— —— for fine counts, 31
• —— —— for medium sizing, 31
• —— —— for heavy sizing, 32
• Sizes of patterns woven in Jacquards, 285
• Sizing, 28
• —— ball, 43
• —— materials, 28
• ——, slashing frame, 33;
• slow motion in, 37
• —— frame, slasher, marking motion in, 35, 36
• —— —— frictional winding motion in, 39
• —— machines, hot air drying in, 38
• —— ——, automatic supply of size to, 40
• Slubbings, 8
• Solid coloured borders in dhooties, 303
• Split harness, designing for, 292
• Splits, motion for, 132
• —— Shorrock and Taylor’s motion for, 133
• Spreading the warp, 85
• Spun silk yarns, counts of, 307
• Stitching-thread used to bind extra warp and extra weft, 252, 253
• Stocks and bowls, 67
• Stop motion, weft fork, 93
• —— ——, in beam-warper, 19
• —— rod, 92
• Striped designs, 288;
• calculation of reed for, 288
• TABBY weave, 218
• Taking-up motion, negative, 101;
• screw and worm wheel, 103
• —— positive, 95;
• Pickles’, 99;
• new system, 104
• Tappets, calculation for lift of, 52
• ——, construction of, 53
• ——, effect of treadle-bowl on, 57
• —— for plain cloth, 50, 51, 53
• —— for twills, 56, 58
• —— oscillating, 61
• —— positive, 59
• ——, speed of, 87–91
• —— Woodcroft’s, 59
• Terry cloth, 187
• —— loom, 187
• Testing yarns, 329
• Three-ply, four-ply cloths, 263
• Toiletings, 297
• Traverse motions, heart cam, 9, 10;
• mangle wheel, 11 cloths, 258
• Trial section, 25
• Twaddell’s hydrometer, 30
• Twills, 219
• —— combined, 226
• Twisting-in, 3
• Twofold yarns, cotton, worsted, silk, 308
• UNDERMOTIONS, 130, 131
• Undermotion, Kenyon’s, 131
• V-CREEL, 18, 23
• V-reed, 24
• Velvet, common, 270
• —— cords, 276
• —— E1, 273
• —— fast pile, 273
• ——, figured, 301
• —— twill back, 274
• Velvets, velveteens, 270, 277;
• definition of, 272
• WARP line, 85
• Warping, beam, 18
• Warping mill, 21
• ——, sectional, 23
• Weaving wage calculations, 324
• Weft, preparation of, 6
• ——, wet, 6
• —— fork, 93
• —— pile fabrics, 270
• Weft-replenishing devices, automatic, 198–217
• —— ——, patents for, 209
• —— ——, Northrop, 210
• —— ——, Hattersley, 214
• Winding coloured yarn, 14
• —— drum, 14
• —— from cops to warpers’ bobbins, 6
• —— from ring spools to warpers’ bobbins, 6
• —— from throstle to warpers’ bobbins, 6
• Woodcroft’s section tappets, 59, 60
• Worsted yarns, 307
• Wrapping yarn, 330
• YARN balance, Staub’s, 331
• —— twist of, 305
• Yorkshire dressing, 5, 47

THE END

PRINTED BY
WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED
LONDON AND BECCLES