Mission from Cape Coast Castle to Ashantee

---

---

CHAPTER I.

---

Geography.

The impression of the Natives that we came “to spy the country” was sedulously strengthened by the Moors, who were actuated by alarm, jealousy, and a spirit of intolerance unmitigated by a previous intercourse with Europeans. I felt compelled, therefore, to suppress all curiosity for a considerable time, lest the anxiety to detect us in geographical enquiries, to make their calumny more imposing, might have been gratified. Latterly, when better feelings had been induced through patience and candour, as the Moorish charts and MSS. evidence, the inaptitude rather than the reluctance of the natives, made the shortness of our stay unaccommodating. I shall pass over a mass of memoranda recorded on individual report, and only select such, wherein Moors and natives, unknown to each other, have agreed; describing their travels in their own way, without my questions anticipating or directing them. These routes and observations were further confirmed by the evidence of children, recently arrived as slaves from the various countries, whose artless replies decided my credence. It may be remarked, that the children of the African Negroes, early accustomed to travel with their parents for their convenience or their assistance, and unoccupied by the difficulties of incipient education, observe nature more attentively than European children of the same age would; for they have nothing else to think of, or to divert the fatigue of these reiterated trading journies: their evidence, therefore, was a genuine and acceptable check on the Moorish and Negro adults.

The difficulty of adjusting geography by investigation only, is not diminished by the numerous small states, scarcely less frequent than those of modern Italy, which we find to compose this part of Western Africa.

Any thing like observations of the Sun’s place, during a journey, seemed to be so uncommon to the Natives, and so secondary to the Moors, from their confused accounts of the occasional changes, that, after expending much time to no purpose, I was obliged to content myself with placing the different kingdoms in the same direction as their several paths bore from Coomassie, taking every precaution to be convinced that the paths did not cross each other; and afterwards adjusting the positions by the various auxiliary evidence which occurred in the general course of my enquiries. I allow 15 miles for each days journey (which, from observation and report, I have reason to think is the average) and two thirds of the sum to be made good on the horizontal distance, as we found this to be nearly the case in our journey from Annamaboe to Coomassie; the distance travelled being 146 miles, Annamaboe laying in 5° 4′ N., and 1° 43′ W., and the latitude of Coomassie being 6° 34′ 50″ N.; and the longitude 2° 11′ W. by the mean of the observations of the eclipses of Jupiter’s 1st and 2nd satellites.

I procured the numerals of the various countries whenever I could, to assist future enquirers.

There are nine great paths leading from Coomassie, the Dwabin, Akim, Assin, Warsaw, Sauee, Gaman, Soko, Daboia, and Sallagha.

Dwabin is not more than three quarters of a day’s journey eastward from Coomassie, by the route No. 1.; in which I have retained only the larger towns, omitting the villages; as I shall invariably. The river Dah is crossed close to the westward of Dwabin, and said to be as wide as we found it at Sarrasoo. Two journies beyond Dwabin is a small dependent district called Mohoo. Several names, such as Meäsee, Marmpon, Akrofroom, &c. will be found common to different states, as Larissa, Argos, and Thebes were in antient Greece.

There is an eastern branch of the Akim path, entered immediately on leaving Coomassie, to a country called Quaöo, northward of Akim, (of which it seems formerly to have been a district) and adjoining the Volta. Diabbee is its principal town, and the second Wantomoo, 8 journies from Coomassie by route No. 2. The latter is situated at the foot of a mountain whence the Boosempra issues, with two smaller rivers, the Soobirree and Sesee, running to the Kirradee. This district is entered the 3d day from Coomassie.

There are two routes to Accra through Akim, the capital of which is Bannasoo, 5 journies, and the northern frontier town Feëa, 3 journies from Coomassie. The easternmost route to Accra is 15 journies; the other is made 17 journies to pass near the lake Boosmaquee. This lake, 3 journies from Coomassie, was described as four miles long, and nearly three broad; upwards of thirty small crooms were reckoned situated around it, supported by fishing: the water was said to be unpleasant to drink, and to give a reddish hue to the hair of the people who washed in it. Fish were forwarded thence daily for the King’s table, by relays of men. It was called the white mans fetish, there being a popular superstition, nourished by the Moors, that Europeans were to join it with the sea, to introduce vessels for the subjugation of the country. Close to the lake is a mountain called Quashee Boposoo, sometimes seen clearly from Coomassie, abounding in large black stones, described as basaltes. By this route (No. 3.) to Accra, the Akim country is entered the 4th day, the Boosempra is crossed on the 6th, by a tree laid over it, and the Birrim, by a line and raft on the 12th; it is much wider than the Boosempra is where we crossed it, and runs to that river, falling into it just above our crossing. The Aquapim, a clear and mountainous country, is entered on the 16th day. By the eastern route, No. 4, the Akim country is entered the 4th day; a large hill called Abirrawantoo is passed the 9th; thence the Birrim springs, crossing the path twice before it runs to the Boosempra. Three days westward from this mountain, is a second, called Papow, in which the Aïnshue or the Winnebah river rises. A river called Dinshue rises also in this neighbourhood, running to the Saccomo, which falls into the sea 8 miles west of Accra. Isert, who visited Aquapim, called the capital Kommang, but Akropong is so now. The distance from Coomassie to Accra may be estimated at 230 miles, which bears about the same proportion to the horizontal distance, as the path we travelled through Assin from Annamaboe. Dr. Leyden was much imposed on in the extravagant account he has given of the extent, power, and commerce of Akim,[15] which is placed in the map accompanying his work, eastward of Dahomey, instead of westward of the Volta. Dr. Isert was a Danish gentleman, who had the good fortune to cure the former King of Ashantee’s sister of a lingering disorder, after she had exhausted all the skill of the fetish women, and came to Christiansburg Castle in despair. He afterwards expressed his wish to visit the Ashantee kingdom; and being encouraged, he set out in June 1786, and staying some days in Aquapim, was just about to enter Akim, when he was recalled by the Governor. A dangerous illness, heightened by his disappointment, soon afterwards disgusted him with the country, and he left it for the West Indies. As Dr. Isert’s letters are only known in German and Dutch,[16] and he was an industrious and scientific observer, an extract from his description of the Aquapim country will be acceptable. I am indebted for a Latin translation of this and other passages, adduced on different subjects, to Dr. Reynhaut of Elmina Castle.

“I began my journey early in the morning of the 17th of June, and after walking two hours I arrived at a little village, picturesquely situated, named Aschiama. Two hours behind this lies a chain of mountains, which are composed of granitous stones; flints are but rarely found. The whole prospect shews itself here in a very different manner to that observed in sandy countries; the rocks are covered with lofty trees, which are encompassed with small forests almost impervious. The soil, no longer sandy, becomes argillaceous, and excellent for vegetation. Behind these forests I arrived at a Negro village called Abodee, eight leagues from Christiansburg: the inhabitants of this place are very tenacious of native ceremony and etiquette. Thence I passed by an irregular path through the following villages, Fiasso, Fientema, Futu, Mampon, Odaky, Manno, and Manseng. An hour afterwards I reached a village named Kommong, the residence of H.R.H. the Duke of Aquapim. Here the country is charming, though forests are still to be found. Mountains, rocks, and vallies vary each other in the most striking order; fresh water, so rarely obtained in maritime countries, is found here of an excellent quality. Near this village a stream constantly rushes from the summit of a rock, and affords a fresh and crystalline water. Trees of a very large circumference are also found; I calculated one of the biggest to be 45 feet round and 15 in diameter. These trees are not the same as those of which Adanson speaks in his description of Senegal, (Adansonia digitata) but are of a peculiar species; they much resemble a round tower, as they do not bear either flowers or fruits. Here I found the Ammonium Grana Paradisi, the Ammonium Zerumber, and a new genus in a perpendicular tree ornamented by flowers, which resembled tulips, (Novum Genus Tetandriæ) and of great elegance: also a new species of aloe, of which the inhabitants make thread; a new species of citron with indented leaves, and a multitude of unknown trees and shrubs. In the thickest forests grows a species of Spanish cane, very straight and well proportioned, and often attaining six feet in height; it is to be wished that it could be made use of, treating it as the Chinese do, for if, when dry, an equal degree of tenacity could be induced, it would prove superior in quality. I observed, on the boughs of the trees, the Senna plant (which is parasitic, and consists entirely of a flower), it was almost the shape of a pine when open, and the inside is of a very deep red; the Negroes use it in the syphilitic disorder, when first attacked. I took it for the Aphuteia Hydrora of Thunberg, but on examination it differs much, as it belongs to Icosandria. Palm trees are here very rare, except the oliferous (Elois Guineensis) and the viniferous (an Phœnix) which are cultivated in great numbers; also the true cocoa nut trees (Cocas nucifera) and the false (an Borassus.) In a word, nature entirely changes her form as soon as you reach the summit of the chain of mountains, and I do not believe one twentieth part of the plants found here are the same as those on the Coast. With regard to natural history, I was less happy in making discoveries. The elephant, so abundantly inhabiting the environs of Fidah, (Whydah) and other wild beasts, are here very rare, which may be attributed to the scarcity of grass, the growth of which is prevented by the almost impenetrable forests. Several sorts of birds are here seen, principally paroquets, of which I knew six species, Psittacus, Erythæus and Pullarius (Linn.) the others seem to be new, and I also saw a great number of insects of new species. The mineral kingdom would perhaps be richer if they had mines here. The rocks are solely composed of rough stones like granite and grens, and their species; dry quartz and slate stones are often found; on the other hand I could not discover calcareous earth. The soil is varied, but consists in general of a rich aluminous earth, traced in different colours, and of a rich black earth with which sand is never mixed. The atmosphere seemed more salubrious than on the sea coast, though physicians generally deny this quality to exist near the forests which grow in warm climates. I believe the elevated situation of the country contributes much to it. The Europeans who inhabit the Coast in forts, would do well to establish an hospital and a garden here. The Arum Esculentum, the Banana (Musa sapientum) the Ananas (Bromelia Ananas) the Carica Papaia and Citron all abound here.”

The Assin path is that described in the route from Annamaboe to Coomassie, it branches off at Foosoo to Ensabra, two journies from Winnebah, through Anissoo, Asoidroo (the head quarters of the King of Ashantee in the invasion of 1807) and Atoäperrim, which means “to fire a gun.” The principal town of Assin is Ansa, through which we passed, Akrofroom, apparently larger, is called the second. A range of stony hills is the boundary of Assin and Akim.

The path to Elmina, through the Warsaw country, makes so considerable an angle to the westward, that the Ashantees invariably declared it occupied more time to travel than the Assin; it is allowed to be ten journies at Elmina, by route No. 5. The Dah is crossed the first day at its town Adahsoo, and in the evening Becquoi (one of the five large towns built by the Ashantees) is reached. The Dankara country is entered the third day, the Tufel the fourth, the Warsaw the sixth, the Boosempra is crossed the tenth day, the Ofim, which skirts this path to the westward (having received the Dah at Meeäsee) falling into it. The capital of the Dankara country is four journies westward of Coomassie, and the frontier is entered the second by route No. 6: it is the most productive of gold, but has been extravagantly over-rated in Bosman’s report of its population. The river Seënnee, or, as the Portuguese have called it, Ancobra, from its serpentine course, has been thought to rise just beyond the north eastern frontier, but it will presently appear to be a branch of the Tando of the Ashantees. In the Dutch copies of the old Portuguese charts, Dankara is placed eastward of Ashantee. The Warsaw country will be noticed more particularly, in considering the maritime geography from Cape Coast Castle to the river Assinee.

The Warsaw path has two grand branches, one to Apollonia and one to Aöwin, each thirteen journies; the former is in the small kingdom of Amanăheä. The Aöwin country extends from Apollonia to the river Assinee, five journies in length and three in breadth; it is governed by seven or eight caboceers, like those of Warsaw, independent of each other: it can furnish about 5000 soldiers. The numerals of Amanăheä and Aöwin will appear in an essay on the Fantee language. Both countries are at the mercy of the Ashantees, who extort gold from them frequently, though they have not yet fixed the tributes.

Sauëe lies eight journies W.N.W. from Coomassie, and Moinsan fifteen. I could not procure the routes, but Wom and Sannasee are two of the largest towns which are passed through.

Buntookoo, the capital of the kingdom of Gaman, is 11 journies N.N.W. of Coomassie by route No. 7. The river Ofim is crossed the second day, the Tando the fifth, thence the country becomes open. Yammee, the frontier town of Gaman, is reached the eighth day. The name of the King of Gaman is Adinkara; the capital, though not so large, is allowed to be better built than Coomassie, and the Moorish influence has been longer established. It is incomparably the richest country in gold, and small pits were described to me, like those Mr. Park saw at Shrondo. The numerals are,

One	Tah.
Two	Noo.
Three	Sah.
Four	Nah.
Five	Taw.
Six	Torata.
Seven	Toorifeenoo.
Eight	Toorifeessa.
Nine	Toorifeena.
Ten	Noonoo.

The four principal Gaman towns, are Sarem, which some call the capital, Bandakeeä, Bundoo, and Nasseä, five journies from Kong, and seven from Buntookoo.

A powerful kingdom called Bahooree, which has hitherto successfully resisted the Ashantees, was described to be westward, and expected to afford refuge to the King of Gaman on the approaching invasion.

I had heard it reported that the Tando formed the Assinee river, about 35 miles westward of Cape Apollonia, but a very intelligent Ashantee satisfied me this was a mistake, arising probably from Seënee being the native name of the Ancobra, which is formed by one branch of the Tando; a second running westward. The Tando is not near so large as the Boosempra, and therefore very unlikely to form so large a river as the Assinee; the western branch may possibly run into it. Mr. Meredith, writing from report without sufficiently checking it, has made the Tando and the Chamah or Boosempra the same; yet, p. 225, he adds, “the Volta is more probably a branch of the Tando, a large river reported as running to the eastward, and which the Ashantees are obliged to cross in coming to the Coast;” he did not reflect that he thus laid down a river running out of the sea. The Tando, we have seen, is five days northward of Coomassie, it rises in some rocky hills called Toofeeä, near the large town Aënkroo, between the Banda and Inta paths.

Soko (formerly a province of Gaman) is 11 journies from Coomassie; and Banda, four beyond, and a little to the eastward; see route No. 8. The first day, Tafoo is reached, a large aboriginal Inta town, for, as will be seen in the historical report, the Ashantees emigrated, and subjected several Inta districts now forming the northern part of their dominions, and trenched considerably on that declining kingdom, now entirely at their mercy. If Mr. Dalzel had reflected, it would have occurred to him, that the Taffoe, Tafoe, or Tafu of Snelgrave (placed so absurdly in his map, 60 miles west of the mouth of the Volta) and the In-ta[17] he heard of at Dahomey, and confounded with Ashantee, were the same: for the In in In-ta is scarcely audible, and only a slight nasal sound barely amounting to n, as N-ta; foo is merely an adjunct equal to people or men in our language, affixed in the present infancy of African language to all names of countries, as if we always said the Scotchmen or Irishmen, instead of the Scotch and Irish. The Ofim is crossed one day beyond Tafoo at its croom Ofeesoo, the Tando four journies beyond at Tandosoo. Takima is reached the eighth day, whence the Fantees are reported, by tradition, to have emigrated, and there is yet but little difference in the languages.

Sixteen journies N.N.E. of Coomassie is Boopee (which I have placed accordingly in 8° 42′ N. and 1° 19′ W.) the frontier town of Inta, hitherto confounded with Ashantee, than which it is more populous and more civilized. The Moorish influence has been long established there, and almost all its caboceers affect to profess that faith. The river Adirri, which we shall presently identify with the Volta, is crossed four hours southward of Boopee, and is described as about 120 yards broad; it rises eight journies N.W. of Boopee, in a large mountain called Kondoongooree, one of the mountains of Kong, which were distinctly and invariably reported not to be a chain, but frequently and individually scattered, from Kong eastward. Seven journies from Coomassie, on the Inta route, is the smaller kingdom Coranza (probably the Corisseno of the old maps) the people of which are of the same origin as the Ashantees by tradition, but, as the King himself assured me, of much more genius and aptitude. Three journies from Boopee is Daboia, the second town of Inta. The first journey is to Minsiroo, where lions are numerous; the second to Moronko, the inhabitants of which are so fearful of being carried off as slaves by the Ashantee traders (who travel in great numbers) that they have no doors to their houses, but ascending by a ladder, which they immediately draw up, they enter through the thatch. Close to Moronko is a river, about as large as the Boosempra, called Adiffofoo. Pahmee, three journies south eastward of Daboia, and Yabo which I cannot place so precisely, are the alternate residences of the King of Inta. There is a constant commercial intercourse between Inta and Dahomey, the frontiers being five journies apart. The numerals of Inta are

One	Koko.
Two	Anyoe.
Three	Assa.
Four	Anna.
Five	Annoo.
Six	Assee.
Seven	Assoonno.
Eight	Adoobrooa.
Nine	Digrakoono.
Ten	Koodoo.

Sallagha, the grand market of the Inta kingdom, is 17 journies north-eastward from Coomassie, by route No. 10. The first is to Marmpon, one of the five large towns built by the Ashantees, and possessing palatine privileges; the second, through five smaller towns to Aphwaguiassie, the largest market in the Ashantee kingdom; the 9th day the rivers Kirradee and Oboosoom are crossed, each about 60 yards wide, and flowing so near together, as to appear one in the rainy season; a high mountain, Aduarreekennee, is just beyond them, the boundary of Ashantee and Booroom. The tenth day the river Sennee is forded, which afterwards enlarges considerably, and runs into the Volta; it rises five journies from Coomassie (by route No. 11) between the Boopee and Sallagha paths. The Booroom country is quite open, and the Ashantees give the river the figurative name of Birrinsoo, which means that its distance is so deceiving, that you will cry before you reach it. The capital of Booroom is Guia, a considerable town, noticed in the route to Odentee, a fetish sanctuary of great repute, and said to be splendidly furnished. The Ashantee language is spoken very commonly in Booroom, but the vernacular numerals are

One	Ekoo.
Two	Enoo.
Three	Essa.
Four	Enna.
Five	Annoo.
Six	Esseä.
Seven	Assoono.
Eight	Aquiay.
Nine	Akonno.
Ten	Edoo.

The tenth day the Adirri or Volta is crossed, more than a mile wide, but much interrupted by rocks, and described to be full of hippopotami (which they call sea elephants,) and alligators. This river divides Booroom from Inta, Sallagha being one day’s long march from it. Calculating the 17 journies to Sallagha at 15 miles each, the course as N.E. by E. and supposing two thirds to be made good on the horizontal distance, according to our own experience, which gives 170 B. equal to 147 G. miles, Sallagha will lie in latitude 7° 56′ N., and longitude 9″ W. As a check upon this position, it will be necessary to follow the Adirri or Volta as far as the natives navigate it from Adda, where it is called the Flou (as the falls of the Senegal.) Isert’s report may be interesting as an introduction.

“The people of Adda think it derogatory to cultivate land, and live by fishing, and making salt, which they sell to the people of the Interior. The Volta has no breakers, and therefore may be presumed to be deep.” This is an extraordinary mistake; Dalzel says there are high breakers. Colonel Starrenberg (of Engineers) at Elmina Castle, who went about 60 miles up the Volta, accompanied by a Danish officer and flag, and met with no impediment so far, but turned back reluctantly in three or four fathoms of water, observed to me, that he thought the channel between the breakers about a mile wide. Dalzel mentions an American brig making good her passage over the bar, on which there is about two fathoms water; and a Danish schooner has done so since. “An arm goes from the mouth to Quitta.” This must be the river running from Lagos into the Volta, near the mouth, as will be shewn in considering the errors in the maritime geography. “Six English miles from the mouth, it forms a lake 60 miles long and 48 broad, whence an arm extends to Pottriba, 3 miles eastward of Quitta: in this lake are more than a hundred islands.” Colonel Starrenberg thought the river widened about 9 British miles from the mouth, but the number of small islands prevented even ocular demonstration. So large a lake would certainly have been spoken of by the natives to Europeans ere this; those whom I have questioned, have gone up the river to the extreme navigable point, and crossed it in many parts; and they all declare that at Ascharee, 2 days from Adda, it is not two miles wide. I never could find either an Ashantee, or a waterside native, who knew of the arm running to Pottriba, a name they had not heard of; neither could Col. Starrenberg learn any thing of it; no branch appeared as far as he went. Isert probably alluded, from report, to the river Assuafroo, which runs from eastward into the Volta, 7 journies from Adda, as will appear in the natives account. “From May to December the water is good to drink, being then higher than the sea; in the other months it is not so, but produces more fish. The river overflows in July, and August, and the neighbourhood of its banks is excellent for the cultivation of rice.” Rice is abundantly cultivated in the Inta kingdom. “Three miles from the sea is an island, called Bird Island, full of pelicans of peculiar kinds. There is a fish in this river called hardrass, which, when smoked, is exactly like European salmon. There are also hippopotami and crocodiles: quantities of oysters adhere to the mangroves, but when the river is fresh they are good for nothing. There are a great number of singing birds, and a nightingale equal to the Polish, which sings in May and December.” Col. Starrenberg heard a nightingale, but saw only one hippopotamus. There is a kind of cedar tree, (Avicenniæ nov. spec.) which shoots up many branches from the ground, about as thick as a pipe, and bare of leaves: this tree is so very salt in its nature, that in the morning a great quantity of liquid salt is found on the leaves, chrystallizing in the course of the day.[18] Amalfee is on an island, 48 miles from the mouth, the inhabitants of which, and those on the banks of the river, of Agrafee, Wefee, Tophirree, and Bettoo, call themselves river inhabitants. The former are the brokers of slaves for the Creppee country, and receive a vast number from one of its provinces called Acottim, 3 journies eastward.”

Mr. Meredith could scarcely have enquired about the Creppee or Aquamboe countries, to have placed them west of the Volta. The natives who carry salt up the Volta, pull the 1st day, by Agrafee, Foomee, and Tefferee to Amanfee, on the banks; the 2nd to Dofo on an island; the 3rd, by Ascharee, on the western bank, to Adomë; the 4th by Assafoo to the Aquamboe country; the 5th to Sowa; the 6th to Pessee; the 7th by Appasoo, to Deyatoompon, where a large river flows into the Volta from the eastward; to Doodee the 8th; to Tombo the 9th; to Akorosoo the 10th; to Odentee the 11th. Here the river becomes too rocky to proceed conveniently, and hence to Sallagha by land is 4 journies, through the large towns Oboëkee, Akuntong, Enkungquakroo, and Apapassee, famous for making cotton cloth. There is a small state northward, between Aquamboe and Inta, called Anoöchoo, subject to Ashantee, bordering on which is Guasoo, the southern district or province of Inta. The Creppee country borders on Aquamboe eastward, and is independent.

I am not in possession of Colonel Starrenberg’s bearings, but the course of the river may be pretty well ascertained from fixing the points of Odentee, Quaöo, and Ascharee. Odentee is 6 journies southward of east (by route No. 12) from Pattooda, in the Booroom country, and mentioned in the route to Sallagha. Quaöo, the country where the Boosempra rises, has already been mentioned as entered 8 journies from Coomassie. Ascharee, 2 days and a half pull up the river, is reached in 1 day’s walk from Ningo. The course of the Volta is consequently about W.N.W. to Quaöo, N.E. by N. to Odentee, and N.W. by Sallagha, which course it appears to continue to Boopee, if not to its source in the Kondoongooree mountain. The 10 days pull from Adda to Odentee, and the 4 journies by land thence to Sallagha, agree very well with the distance and position of that place, as before calculated by the 17 days route from Coomassie. The houses of Sallagha and other towns of Inta were mentioned as peculiar from being round. Leo Africanus observed houses built in the form of bells at Timbuctoo.

Seven days from Sallagha, N.E. according to the Moors, through the Inta town of Zongoo, is Yahndi, the capital of Dagwumba, which I have placed, calculating the course at N.E. by E., and allowing 18 miles for each journey, as the country is said to be open, in 55′ E. and 8° 38′ N.: the position is assisted by the common account of its being 8 journies from Daboia, by route No. 13, and that two obscure, but direct paths to Daboia and Yahndi, from Coomassie, occupy the first 19 days, and the latter (described as laying between Daboia and Sallagha) 23 days. Sir William Young, in his Report of the Geography and History of Northern Africa, writes, “the Slatees of Old Calebar are said to carry on their trade to Degombah northward,” which also supports my placing it more to the eastward than it appears in Major Rennel’s map. Yngwa, a district and large town of Dagwumba, is said to lie 8 days north-westward of Yahndi, through Sakoigoo; its distance from Daboia, by report 6 journies, places it about N.N.W. Two journies from Daboia, towards Yngwa, is the river Adiffofoo, about 60 yards wide, running eastward, 2 journies from which is Kooboro, a large Dagwumba town.

North-eastward of Yahndi is Tonomah, of which I do not recollect more than the name, though I think it is a town and district of Dagwumba. The kingdom of Tonowah, of which Assentai has been described as the capital by the Shereef Imhammed,[19] must have been derived from this name, being otherwise unknown. Three journies north-eastward of Yahndi is Sokoquo or Ensoko, also a considerable town.

Yahndi is described to be beyond comparison larger than Coomassie, the houses much better built and ornamented. The Ashantees who had visited it, told me, they frequently lost themselves in the streets. The King, Inăna Tanquăree, has been converted by the Moors, who have settled there in great numbers. Mr. Lucas called it the Mahomedan kingdom of Degomba, and it was represented to him as peculiarly wealthy and civilized. The markets of Yahndi are described as animated scenes of commerce, constantly crowded with merchants from almost all the countries of the interior. Horses and cattle abound, and immense flocks are possessed even by the poorer class. The numerals of Dagwumba and Yngwa differing, I submit both.

	Yngwa.	Dagwumba.
One	Lakoo	Yahndo
Two	Ayee	Ayee
Three	Attah	Attah
Four	Anāhee	Nasee
Five	Leerennoo	Ennoon
Six	Ayoboo	Yohbee
Seven	Ayapaï	Poiee
Eight	Annee	Nehenoo
Nine	Awai	Whyee
Ten	Peä	Edoo.

Yahndi is named after the numeral one, from its pre-eminence. Sarem is the name of a region, including Gaman, Inta, and Dagwumba, so called from the open nature of those countries.

One day from Sallagha, towards Yahndi, and scarcely one journey westward from the latter, is the river Laka, described to be as large and as rapid as the Adirri or Volta, which it joins below Odentee, and may therefore be safely concluded to be the Assuafroo; for the names of rivers are very mutable in Africa, each country through which they pass naturalising them to its own language, and thus increasing the perplexities of a geography founded on investigation. I could not procure any authorized account of the northward course of this river, the best opportunities had escaped me when I heard of it.

Five journies N.E. from Yahndi is the smaller kingdom of Gamba, the birth place of Baba the chief Moor at Coomassie, and the boundary of the Ashantee authority, though its influence, through the much respected medium of Dagwumba, would extend to the Niger. Seven journies northward of Yngwa is the kingdom of Fobee: the river Koontoorooa is crossed four days from it, being about half a mile broad, it has an eastern and western branch, the former running to the Karhala, one day farther, considerably wider, and the course south-eastward. One journey from the river is a large mountain called Sarraka, the same distance from Fobee, the capital of the kingdom. Lakoo, Lamma, Karhala, and Koomada are the next largest towns. Five journies northward is an independent kingdom called Chouoocha. The position of Fobee is checked by Goorooma, being 15 journies from it, (a kingdom to be noticed presently in the direct northern route from Yahndi to Houssa,) and Kawerree only nine, doubtless Cayree, a kingdom in the route of the Moors from Coomassie to Jinnie. The numerals of Fobee are

One	Koroom.
Two	Nalay.
Three	Poompevarra.
Four	Leetaynalee.
Five	Kakwassee.
Six	Mannassa.
Seven	Noottoosoo.
Eight	Borafay.
Nine	Pirrifay.
Ten	Nanooa.

Five journies from Yngwa is Mosee, a more warlike but less visited kingdom; it consists of many states, but the superior monarch is named Billa, and the capital Kookoopella. I place this N.W., because, although its traders pass through Yngwa, they do not cross the Karhala, or indeed any river but what they can walk through. The numerals are

One	Yimbo.
Two	Ayeeboo.
Three	Ataboo.
Four	Annasee.
Five	Annoo.
Six	Ayobee.
Seven	Owhi.
Eight	Ennee.
Nine	Aïhopoi.
Ten	Peega.

A few days northward of Fobee, through Chamday and Kobafoo, is Calanna, described as a very large city, rivalling Yahndi as a market, and situated at the foot of a mountain abounding in iron stone, which they manufacture for rude purposes in much the same manner as Mr. Park witnessed at Jeningalla. Calanna is probably the Calanshee of Imhammed, who told Mr. Lucas that it was a dependency of Tounouwah or Assentai, situated mid-way between it and the coast, 18 journies from each. The numerals are

One	Kodoom.
Two	Naboolla.
Three	Naweedazoo.
Four	Nabonaza.
Five	Nabonoa.
Six	Lodoo.
Seven	Logwa.
Eight	Littaïzoo.
Nine	Nako.
Ten	Yewoo.

Kumsallahoo I have not attempted to lay down, having no other guide for placing it than the report that it is one moon’s journey from Dagwumba, that its traders pass through Mosee, and cross only one river, the Fachinga, and that not large. The numerals are

One	Yumbo.
Two	Yeeboo.
Three	Tabo.
Four	Nasee.
Five	Annoo.
Six	Yobo.
Seven	Poihee.
Eight	Nehee.
Nine	Wahee.
Ten	Pega.

We will now return to Coomassie and proceed northwards to Jinnie, or as it was generally pronounced, Jennë. This route to Tombuctoo (or Timbooctoo) is much less frequented by the Moors than that from Dagwumba, through Houssa. They alledge that the people northward, are neither so commercial, so civilized, or so wealthy as those north-eastward. The first 12 journies are to Buntookoo, seven journies whence is a river called by the natives Coombo, and by the Moors, Zamma; it is described as half a mile broad, and running westward. I could not find any Ashantee who had travelled beyond this river, which is the northern limit of their authority. Five journies eastward of north from the river, is Kong, the King of which is named Asequoo. A large mountain called Toolileseena is near the capital, and a small river, Woora, four journies from it. The kingdom is said to be by no means so wealthy or powerful as that of Ashantee; the market is supplied from Houssa, the country is populous, horses numerous, and elephants killed daily. The people fight with spears, and bows and arrows. Seven journies from Kong several mountains are passed, called Koonkoori. Mr. Park says, that “Kong signifies mountain in the Mandingo language, which language is in use from the frontier of Bambarra to the western sea.” The language of Kong seems to be a corruption of the Bambarra or Mandingo: the numerals are

One	Kiddee.
Two	Filla.
Three	Sowa.
Four	Nanoo.
Five	Looroa.
Six	Wora.
Seven	Ooranfilla.
Eight	Leeaygee.
Nine	Konunto.
Ten	Tah.

The Ashantees calling all the slaves whom they brought down to the water side Dunkos, it had been, for many years, naturally concluded that there was a large country of that name in their neighbourhood. Isert writes, “the Dunkoers are a people behind Ashantee.” On enquiry, however, I found to my surprise, that there is no country of that name, but that it is merely an epithet, synonymous with the barbarian of the Greeks and Romans, which they apply to all the people of the interior but themselves, and implies an ignorant fellow. I first suspected this from observing some Dunkos were cut in the face, and some not, and I presently discovered their vernacular languages were various, and unintelligible to each other. Generally speaking, the bush or country people of Dagwumba have three light cuts on each cheek bone, and three below, with one horizontal under the eye; those of Yahndi, three deep continued cuts; the people of Mosee, three very deep and long, and one under the eye; those of Bornoo are frequently cut in the forehead; of Marrowa all over the body in fine, small, and intricate patterns. In Fobee, Kumsallahoo, and Calanna, the lower orders have a hole bored through the cartilage of the nose. These cuts are made during infancy, to insinuate fetish liquids to invigorate and preserve the child.

Nine journies northward of Kong is Kaybee, the King of which, named Mamooroo, killed the former monarch Dabbira. The country was said to be very populous, the capital behind a mountain called Beseeree, the soil chalky, and asses as numerous as horses. Three journies from the frontier of Kaybee, over a large mountain called Seboopoo, and across a large river, is Kayree, through which country it is very dangerous to pass, the people laying in ambush in small parties to rob or kidnap travellers, and subsisting by rapine. Five journies thence is Garoo (probably Gago[20]) a very powerful kingdom, the King, Batoomo, lives at Netaquolla. Twenty journies beyond is the kingdom of Doowarra, the people of which are indifferent warriors, but superior agriculturists, and plant extensively; the soil is red earth. A smaller kingdom called Filladoo or Firrasoo, is in the neighbourhood. Five journies north of Doowarra is the Niger, and on an island, about a mile from the southern bank, is Jennë. The route from Kong to Jennë is the only one which has not been checked by Negro evidence, but I had reason to think well of the Moor who furnished it, who never contradicted himself, though repeatedly cross questioned during the four months I was at Coomassie. The places reported to Mr. Park on this route, it is true, are none of them mentioned, but, probably, the people who were insuperably adverse to his proceeding, were the least likely to satisfy his curiosity but by imposing on him.[21] Mr. Park in his route from Sego to Bædoo, has a town called Doowassoo, only four journies from Sego; but I was assured repeatedly that Doowarra is a powerful kingdom. In the first Mission, Mr. Park reported the kingdom of Gotto to be so close to the Niger, that its chief, Moösee, embarked on it to attack Jinnie, and Major Rennell has placed it accordingly: but, in the second, he writes, “one month’s travel south of Bædoo,” (which he makes 30 journies southward of Sego) “through the kingdom of Gotto, will bring the traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses on the banks of the Ba Sea Feena.” He says the Ba Nimma rises in the Kong mountains south of Marraboo, but does not mention the kingdom of Kong in his route, which is about one moon’s travel from the sea, as he has described Bædoo to be. Now it is very unlikely, if Bædoo had been but 20 journies from Coomassie, that we should not have heard of it; and it is next to impossible, that if any kingdom called Gotto laid still nearer, (which it must have done, to have been passed through from Bædoo to the sea) that it should have been unknown. Indeed, if the kingdom of Bambarra extended 28 days south of Sego, as appears by the route given to Mr. Park, the Ashantees would not have spoken of it from mere report, but would probably have become acquainted with it, either through war, commerce, or negotiation. It is a little extraordinary that the kingdom of Ashantee, reported as eminently powerful to Mr. Lucas even so far distant as Mesurata, and which must be well known in the neighbourhood of Jennë, from the number of Moors who visit it from that city, should not even have been noticed to Mr. Park in this southern route from Silla or Sego to the sea. Mr. Park writes of the Moors not being able to subject Jinbala; I believe they insinuate themselves as residents every where, but I could not hear of their having established themselves by force, or of their composing even the greater part of a population any where.[22]

Having reached the Niger it is time to observe, that it is only known to the Moors by the name of Quolla, pronounced rather as Quorra by the Negroes, who, from whatever countries they came, all spoke of this as the largest river they knew; and it was the grand feature in all the routes (whether from Houssa, Bornoo, or the intermediate countries) to Ashantee. Mr. Horneman wrote that the Niger, in some parts of Houssa, was called Gaora, which must sound very like Quorra. The Niger, after leaving the lake Dibbir, was invariably described as dividing in two large streams; the Quolla, the greater, pursuing its course south-eastward until it joined the Bahr Abiad, and the other branch running northward of east near Timbuctoo, and dividing again soon afterwards; the smaller stream running northwards by Yahoodee, a place of great trade,[23] and the larger turning directly eastward, and increasing considerably, running to the lake Caudi or Cadi under the name of Gambaroo.[24] The Moors call the branch running by Timbuctoo the Jolliba, I presume figuratively, as a great water, for I was assured by a native of Jennë, who had frequently visited Timbuctoo, that this branch was called Zah-mer by the Negroes.[25]

The variety of the concurrent evidence respecting the Gambaroo, certainly made an impression on my mind almost amounting to conviction. De Lisle, in his map of Africa for the use of Louis XV, (the accuracy of which in one point where our latest charts are in error, the Lagos river, will be shewn towards the close of this Report) makes a branch from the Niger running near Timbuctoo; and what is even more to the point, writes “Gambarou ou Niger.” It was not till sometime after my return from Ashantee, that I unexpectedly discovered this solitary European record of such a name, and it will at least be allowed that so respectable a character as De Lisle, would neither have laid down the branch from the Niger (for it is as likely to be so in the absence of explanation, as a river running into it) without some authority, nor have invented the name Gambarou: and it will also be allowed, that he must have heard of it as being a very large river, to have confounded it with the Niger. De Lisle has preserved most of the names reported to me, more closely than any other geographer.[26] In the judicious compendium of Mr. Murray, I observe the following note. “It is but justice to D’Anville to say, that in his map of central Africa, inserted in the 26th volume of the Academie des Inscriptions, he has represented a river passing close to Timbuctoo, running S.W., and falling into the Niger. This delineation has not been copied by others, but it is not the less probable that that excellent geographer may have had positive information on which to found it.” Now, I may presume, this is only recorded in delineation, and not noticed by D’Anville in the text, or, his authority would have appeared. I shall be indulged in such a conjecture, when it is recollected I am writing where I cannot satisfy myself, in a place destitute of literary facilities. If it is only to be found in the delineation, it is of course, as likely to be a branch running N.E. from the Niger, as a river running S.W. into it. Mr. Park has described the Niger as dividing into two large branches after leaving Dibbie, and their re-union has been admitted by considerate investigators, to be a very improbable addition to that report.[27] Sidi Hamet assigns no course to the great river which he described as about an hour’s ride with a camel south of Timbuctoo, and distinguished from the Niger, or, as he called it, Zolilib, by saying the latter was two hours ride. Adams placed La-mar-Zarah, about three quarters of a mile wide, two miles south of the town, without hesitation, but he only conceived that the course was S.W.[28] Leo, ambiguous as the context may be, certainly writes that there is a branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo, “Vicino a un ramo del Niger.” Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor says that below Ghinea is the sea into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself; on which Major Rennell observes, “by the word sea, it is well known the Arabs mean to express a lake also:” this river of Timbuctoo is, doubtless, the branch of the Niger forming the Gambaroo, and the sea below Ghinea, the lake Caude. In the Description de l’Afrique, traduite du Flamand, D’O. Dapper, à Amsterdam, 1686, I find “Ce Royaume de Tombut ou Tongbutu environ à quatre lieuës d’un bras du Niger.” The account, to be submitted presently, that this branch of the Niger passing Timbuctoo is not crossed until the third day going from Timbuctoo to Houssa, is not an argument against its identity with the Zarah of Adams, or the river of Sidi Hamet, only two or three miles from the city; because, giving a northerly course to the branch, and Houssa laying north eastward 20 journies from Timbuctoo, as will be shewn presently, the direction of the path would not require the river to be crossed immediately, but, evidently, not till the second or third day.

De Barros, who considered the Senegal to be the Niger, wrote, that it received various names,[29] and was called by the Caragoles (Serawoollies) Collë; on which Mr. Murray reasonably observes, “this name seems readily convertible into Joli-ba, the latter syllable being merely an adjunct, meaning a river:” this I was also given to understand. Now, if the name Joliba had not been reported on the authority of Mr. Park, I might submit that Collë is more readily convertible into Quolla, which approximating even more closely to Kulla, seems to identify the Collë and Kulla under the common name of Quolla.[30] Mr. Park in his memoir to Lord Camden, writes, “the river of Dar Kulla, mentioned by Mr. Browne, is generally supposed to be the Niger, or at least to have a communication with that river.” The name and course of the Quolla suggested this to me before I observed the above remark, which I did not until my return.[31] Other arguments will presently appear for the identity of the Kulla and the Niger.[32]

The Gambaroo seems to me to identify the Gir of Ptolemy,[33] carried by him into the centre of Africa, and which would appear as large as the Niger by the expression, “maximi sunt Gir et Nigir.” The river of Bornoo, hitherto assumed, is not adequate to the impression Ptolemy conveys, and the names “Gir et Nigir,” seem to indicate a connection. The Niger may be considered to terminate when the smaller stream is lost in the Nile.

Concerning the source of the Niger, there was a difference of opinion amongst the Moors, and not the least notion amongst the Negroes. Some said that it rose in Bambooch, meaning, as I presume, Bambouk, and others in Jabowa, where they described another large river to rise also, running westward. Jabowa was said to be 40 journies from Sego, and Bambooch 43.

From Jabowa the Niger was described to run to Fouta Gollabi, and in six days thence to Fouta Towra; the Moors must certainly have meant Foota Galla, and Footatora, for their pronunciation was more imperfect than their knowledge of the native names westward, whither they rarely travelled. I induced a Moor on each side the question, and of different countries, to draw in my quarters, unknown to each other, what they called a chart of the Quolla, for the sake of preserving the several names in their own writing. They were only inferior to one Moor, from whom I never had an opportunity of inducing a chart. Both parties met, apparently, at Hasoo, as will be seen by submitting the names.[34]

	Bambooch.		Jabowa.
Journies.
10	to Gadima, probably Gadoo, little more than 6 journies from the capital of Bambook, according to Major Rennell.
20	to Hasoo		Hasoowa.
4	to Jaoora		Jaoona.
2	to Jamoo		Gamsoö.
5	to Mallaïa		Mallaïu.
2	to Shégo		Sego.

Sego was correctly described according to Mr. Park, and the death of the monarch he first knew spontaneously mentioned, with his warlike disposition, and great power. Mr. Park observes that he found the language of Bambarra a sort of corrupted Mandingo; this confirms the numerals repeated to me as the Bambarra:

	Bambarra.	Mandingo.
One	Killi	Killin.
Two	Foolla	Foola.
Three	Sabba	Sabba.
Four	Nani	Nani.
Five	Looroo	Looloo.
Six	Wora	Woro.
Seven	Worroola	Oronglo.
Eight	Sagi	Sie.
Nine	Konunto	Konunto.
Ten	Ta	Tang.

From Sego to Sansanding was called one journey, from Sansanding to Jennë three. Jennë was described as on an island of the Niger, the town considerable, and fortified, and with large houses to pray in. I did not understand that it was subject to Timbuctoo; it certainly has a distinct monarch, who was called Malaï Smaera, and the head Moor, Malaï Bacharoo. From Jennë through Dibbir, at the entrance of which is Sanina, to Kabarra or Kabra, the port of Timbuctoo (half a day’s walk from it) is a voyage of 20 days. By land, it was only 12 journies, through Mashena (Masina) Farrimabbie, Jimballa (the Jinbala of Mr. Park, which they persisted was not on an island of the Niger, but on the northern bank of it) Taäkim, Assoofoo, Zeddaï, Douraï (probably the Downie in Major Rennell’s map) Matarooch, and Makkasoorfoo, probably the Soorka’s, whom Mr. Park mentioned as inhabiting the northern bank of the river between Jinnie and Timbuctoo: he also writes that it is 12 journies by land from Jinnie to Timbuctoo. The horizontal distance from Jennë to Jimballa, on Major Rennell’s map is about 100 B. miles, and thence to Timbuctoo 90 more. Now 12 journies at 18 miles, give but a horizontal distance of 144 B. miles, wherefore, I should think the northern bank of the lake Dibbir, is not so high as it has been hitherto drawn, and the path so distant as not to be deflected by any curve of the lake. Timbuctoo was described as a large city, but inferior to Houssa, and not comparable with Bornoo. The Moorish influence was said to be powerful, but not superior. A small river goes nearly round the town, overflowing in the rains, and obliging the people of the suburbs to move to an eminence in the centre of the town, where the King lives. This is, probably, the smaller river described by Sidi Hamet as close to the town. Leo says, when the Niger rises, the waters flow through certain canals to the city. There were very few muskets to be seen; the King, a Moorish Negro called Billabahada, had a few double barrelled guns, which were only fired at customs, and gunpowder was almost as valuable as gold. The two latter circumstances, besides the name of the river, were all that I recognised in their reports confirming the description given by Adams, which I conceive to be as inadequate as those collected by Mr. Jackson are extravagant.[35] The three last Kings before Billa, were Osamana, Dawoolloo, and Abass. Mr. Jackson says there was a King Woollo reigning in 1800, and a Moor who had come from Timbuctoo to Coomassie ten years ago, did not know King Woollo (Adams’s King) was dead, as he was reigning at the time he left Timbuctoo. Abass probably had a short reign like Saï Apokoo the second. This Moor also said that Woollo’s favourite wife (called by Adams, Fatima) was named Fatooma Allizato. The editor of Adams shews that the name of Fatima, affords in itself no proof that its possessor was Moorish, or even a Mohammedan woman. I think it is probably derived from a numeral, for it answers to five in the numerals of Garangi (a country described to be northwards of Jennë) which are

One	Kerriminna.
Two	Ferriminna.
Three	Sowaninna.
Four	Firrima.
Five	Fahtima.
Six	Tata.
Seven	Mannima.
Eight	Pirima.
Nine	Missirĭma.
Ten	Guahee.

Numerals are frequently added to names in Ashantee.

Perhaps the old ms. which I purchased with difficulty from a Jennë Moor, will recompense the translator by a fuller account, but I fear religion only is the subject. It contains thirteen pages, with some marginal notes in a different hand. I should have observed, that, generally speaking, I found the Moors very cautious in their accounts, declining to speak unless they were positive, and frequently referring doubtful points to others whom they knew to be better acquainted with them. I did not succeed in procuring the numerals of Timbuctoo, but the language is different from that of Houssa, as the words opposed to those recollected by Adams will shew:

	Timbuctoo.	Houssa.
Man	Jungo	Motoo.
Woman	Jumpsa	Motee.
Camel	So	Rakoomee.
Dog	Killab	Karree.
Cow	Fallee	Saneä.
House	Dah	Garree.
Water	Boca	Looa.
Tree	Carna	Leeseeä.
Gold	Or	Jennarreä.
A Moor	Seckar	Bibay.

From Timbuctoo[36] to Houssa is 20 journies; the three first through a woody country, and over the branch of the Niger to Azibbie, the frontier town. Houssa was said to be the largest city north or south of the Quolla, except Bornoo; the Moorish influence to have been established there beyond memory, and the King’s name Serragkee. Cabi is not the name of the kingdom, but of a large dependent town and district on the Niger. Mallowa, or Marrowa, as the Negroes pronounce it, (for they seemed invariably to substitute r for the l of the Moors, as Quorra for Quolla)[37] is the next extensive in its limits to Bornoo. It is, no doubt, the kingdom of Mellè, misplaced by Leo, and reported to Cadamosto in 1455, as 30 journies beyond Timbuctoo. Major Rennell observes, “we should naturally look for it on the eastward of Timbuctoo,” and it has only been placed south eastward, and south of the Niger, because Edrisi has a city called Malel thereabouts, though he calls the name of the kingdom of which it is the capital Lamlam, which Hartman would reconcile by supposing it to be a transposition of Malel, certainly a forced conjecture.[38] A large town called Mahalaba is the nearest I have found to Malel, to be noticed on the route from Dagwumba to the Niger.[39] In speaking of all fortified cities, the negroes of Mallowa invariably prefixed Berinnë or Brinnë to the name, as an indication that they were so; this was always the case in mentioning Houssa, Cabi, Cassina, Katinna, &c. &c. I shall place the numerals of Cassina, as written by Mr. Lucas after the Shereef Imhammed, to the right of those of Houssa or Mallowa, from their close affinity, perhaps identity; for this language is spoken far eastward, and the Shereef, as we shall presently see, was rather inaccurate in his recollection of the numerals of Bornoo.

One	Daia	Deiyah.
Two	Beeyoo	Beeyou.
Three	Okoo	Okoo.
Four	Odoo	Foodoo.
Five	Beä	Beat.
Six	Seddah	Sheedah.
Seven	Becquay	Bookai.
Eight	Tacquass	Takoos.
Nine	Tarra	Tarrah.
Ten	Gwoma	Goumah.

Two large lakes were described close to the northward of Houssa, one called Balahar Soudan, and the other Girrigi Marragasee. Calculating the 20 journies from Timbuctoo at 18 miles each, supposing two-thirds to be made good on the horizontal distance (equal to 212 g. miles) and the course N.E., I have placed Houssa, 18° 59′ N. and 3° 59′ E. This agrees pretty well with the account of its being 17 journies from the Niger, or Quolla, which give 306 B. miles, and the horizontal distance 176 g. miles. Houssa has hitherto been laid down about 2 journies N. of the Niger. I have an impression that the city of Houssa will be found to lay about E.N.E. of Timbuctoo, of course nearer the Gambaroo, which runs through its dominions, and thus account for the reports of its being situated upon the Niger. Leo certainly meant Mallowa and the Gambaroo, when he wrote, “Melli regio quæ extendit se ad flumen quoddam quod ex Nilo (i.e. Nigro) effluit trecenta millia passuum,” adding, “regnum opulentissimum, maximè artificum et mercatorum copia, frequentia templa, sacerdotes et populus qui Nigritas omnes civilitate antecedunt;” which they certainly appear to do: see a few of their articles for the British Museum. May not the Maurali of Ptolemy be the Melli of Leo, and the modern Mallowa or Marrowa? his large adjunct to the Niger to the south indicates the two rivers. Major Rennell seems to have expected the present discovery, when he writes (commenting on Mr. Park’s report that Houssa was 30 journies by land from Tombuctoo, and 45 by water) “Possibly it may be that Houssa is situated on a different river from that which passes by Tombuctoo (the Joliba,) but which may be an adjunct of it, and may run into it in the quarter of Tombuctoo.” In Dapper’s translation of the Description De l’Afrique du Flamand, 1686, I find “Cette contreé (Melli) s’etend environ cent lieuës le long d’un bras du Niger.”

Tarrabaleese, 50 journies westward of north, was much spoken of from the number of its market places. This must be Tripoli, the Arabic corruption of which is Trabŏlis. The Moors gave me a route to Tunis or Toonis, but I cannot recognise any name in Major Rennell’s map, (which I could not procure until my return,) unless Sabbai be Sebba, and Mookanassa Mourzouk, in Fezzan. There is also another route eastward which I cannot trace. See Appendix.

From Kabarra the Quolla, continuing its course southward of east, passed by Uzzalin, Googara,[40] Koolmanna, Gauw, Tokogirri, (perhaps the Tokrur of Edrisi and Gatterer) Askeä, Zabirmë, and Cabi to Yaoora, which I imagine to be the Youri of Major Rennell’s map.[41] De Lisle places a kingdom, Yaouree, south of the Niger. It is a very celebrated ferry, occurring in a variety of routes from the north of the Quolla to Ashantee, spoken of always as westward of Cassina, and with little variation as 25 journies from Timbuctoo. Now as the Moors called it one day’s journey from Sego to Sansanding, and Mr. Park made it scarcely more, I will assume this as the rule to calculate the distance from Timbuctoo to Yaooree, and afterwards consider its place according to the routes from Dagwumba, through it, to Cassina. Twenty five journies from Timbuctoo would place Yaoora about 70 miles above the Berrisa in Major Rennell’s map, but this makes the horizontal distance from Yaoora to Dagwumba about 850 B. miles, and therefore too great for 42 journies, the greatest number allowed in the routes from Dagwumba to Yaoora.

I would not presume to investigate after Major Rennell, it would be absurd in me to expect to throw any new interest into the discussion, but by making clear the accounts I collected; to do which I must decline the course of the Niger from Cabi (Mr. Horneman writes it flows southward from Haoussa) even to a junction with the Bahr Kulla. For, placing Yaoora in 13° 30′ N. and 8° 30′ E. in conformity with its distance from Timbuctoo and a declining course to the Kulla, the horizontal distance to Yahndi, the capital of Dagwumba, will be 600 B. miles: now 42 journies, the greatest number allowed by the travellers, at 20 miles each, (rejecting one third, as heretofore, lost in the windings of the path) give the horizontal distance at 560 B. miles. This is certainly an additional argument to the similarity of the names Quolla and Kulla, for the identity of these rivers; but not so strong a one as that the routes both of Moors and Negroes, allow but 40 journies from Dagwumba to the point of crossing the Niger for Houssa. The course to this point was described by the Moors as a little to the eastward of north: now 40 journies on a N.N.E. course, by the former rule, places this ferry 15° 1′ N. and 3° 33′ E. agreeing very well with our previous position of Houssa, and proving that the course of the Niger must decline considerably, for more than two extra journies would otherwise be required for the north eastward route from Dagwumba to Yaoora. Major Rennell only writes that the course of the Niger is probably to Wangara. Mr. Ledyard, in his comparatively minute description of that country, (which I shall notice in the route to Bornoo) says nothing of its bordering on the Niger. Major Rennell, in the construction of the geography of Mr. Horneman’s report, writes, “M. D’Anville also had an idea, and so describes it in his map of Africa, 1749 (possibly from actual information,) that the Niger declined to the south beyond Gana, so that the termination of it in the lake Semegonda was 3½ degrees of latitude to the south of Gana.” There is a kingdom called Kulla as well as a river, and there is also a kingdom Quollaraba: raba being probably no more than an adjunct equal to the prefix dar, and signifying a kingdom. Mr. Dupuis, in his notes on Adams, says of an intelligent Negro, “his account was chiefly curious from his description of a nation which he called Gallo or Quallo, which conveyed to me an idea of a people, more advanced in the arts, and wealthier than any that I had previously heard of: within three days journey of the capital was a large lake or river which communicated with the Wed Nile.” The commended arguments of the Quarterly Review, (which I have never had the advantage of reading,) must be in a great degree auxiliary, in arguing, to support the Congo hypothesis, a course of the Niger equally declined with that which I have followed for the identity of the Quolla and Kulla. The junction of the Quolla with the Bahr Abiad, or Nil, as the Moors called it, cannot be more descriptively expressed, according to every account I received, than in the words of Mr. Horneman. “Some days past I spoke to a man who had seen Mr. Brown in Darfoor, he gave me some information respecting the countries he travelled through, and told me that the communication of the Niger with the Nile was not to be doubted, but that this communication before the rainy season was very little.”[42]

We will pursue the course of the Quolla from Yaoora (where I should judge from description it must be about 3 miles wide) before we apply the routes northward of it.[43] One journey eastward of Yaoora, (sometimes called Yawooree by the Negroes,) it passed Nooffie, doubtless the Nyffe of Mr. Horneman and others, and which De Lisle has written Nouffy: 3 journies thence it passed Boussa, which Amadi Fatouma reported, as it was to me also (see Diary) as the place of Mr. Park’s death, but I could hear nothing of the rock and door. Boussa is not in Major Rennell’s map, but I observed Bousa in the map of De Lisle before alluded to; it is probably the Berrisa of Edrisi. Twelve journies thence it passed Atagara, but, previously, Hoomee, and Rakkah.[44] Southward of the latter, they described an inland country called Koofee, possibly Kosie, a country I shall presently introduce, as visited by a mulatto, behind Lagos. Thirty journies from Atagara, it flowed through the kingdom of Quollaraba,[45] which thus falls precisely where Major Rennell has laid down the kingdom of Kulla. Six journies thence it passed Mafeegoodoo, and 13 journies beyond, the lake Cadee or Caudee. This I should consider to be the Cauga of Edrisi, which Major Rennell has identified with the Fittri of Mr. Brown, for into this the second large branch of the Niger, or the river Gambaroo, is said to run; but it is considerably too much to the southward for the Cauga in Major Rennell’s map, being, according to the accounts of the Moors, only 3 journies northward of the Quolla: yet Edrisi writes “besides a river of the name of Nile or Neel passes by Kauga.” What inclines me to think the Cauga may be more distant from Bornoo the capital, though not from the frontier of that kingdom, (15 journies being the number reported to me as well as to Mr. Brown) is, that the Negroes of that city were not so well acquainted with this lake as the Moors. My sketch in the map, of course, represents the sketches and descriptions of the natives. They described the Cadee or Caudee as an immense water, like a small sea, frequently overflowing the neighbouring country, and sometimes so convulsed as to throw up large quantities of fish and other contents; meaning, in short, a volcanic lake. The Moors called it also the Bahr el Noä, having a tradition that the waters of the deluge retired to, and were absorbed in it. A very high mountain was spoken of, at an equal distance between the Caudee and the Quolla.[46] Twelve journies from Caudee, the Quolla received the river Sharee from northward, which, I imagine, if not the Misselad, may be a river deriving its name from the Abu Shareb of Major Rennell’s map. The Quolla was said to pass to the southward of Bagarrimee, (the Baghermee of Mr. Brown.) Kalafarradoo, (I cannot find any name nearer to this than the Courourfa of De Lisle, and Kororfa, said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to be W. of Begarmee). Foör (Darfur, according to Mr. Brown, means the kingdom of Foör) and lastly to skirt Waddaï, the Waddey of Mr. Horneman, who wrote that it was east of Begharmee, and west of Darfoor; but, as it was reported to me east of Darfoor, by every person, and as Mr. Brown did not hear of it to adjust its position, I have placed it so.[47]