Secrets of Wise Men, Chemists and Great Physicians

The composition is made as follows:

Break up the glue and soak in the water for a few hours, then heat by water-bath until melted. Next add the glycerine and heat together for some time to evaporate part of the water, and then strain into the pan, which should be placed perfectly level and filled about two-thirds full; skim with a card to free from bubbles, and set away to cool. An improvement consists in adding one ounce of carbonate of barium to the fluid while warm. The composition should be made somewhat softer for winter use than for summer, which can be done by adding a little larger proportion of glycerine. Another way to make the composition is to soak over night in cold water best gelatine or glue 1 part, and the excess of water poured off. The glue is then warmed in a water-bath with the addition of from 10 to 12 parts of glycerine, to which may be added 4 to 6 parts of finely ground heavy spar, and one part dextrine thoroughly mixed by constant stirring. (In summer less glycerine.)

The letter or sketch to be duplicated is written on a sheet of paper with ink specially prepared for the purpose (see inks). For the original it is best to use smooth, well-​sized writing paper, allowing the ink to dry without using a blotter. After writing the original place it face downward on the pad, and rub it gently with the hand to insure contact at every point. Let it remain from two to six minutes, according to the number of copies you wish to print. In cold weather it should be left longer, as it requires more time for the composition to absorb the ink. Remove the original carefully, and a reversed impression will be observed on the pad. To take off copies lay dry sheets of paper on the reversed impression, press gently, and remove quickly.

When you have taken all the copies you require wash the ink from the surface at once with a sponge and plenty of lukewarm water; never use hot water. The surface of the composition will allow considerable rubbing without fear of tearing it, if not done roughly and carelessly. Be sure your sponge is free from sand and grit, and also avoid scratching with the finger nails. Always wash the surface with a sponge before using, and dry with a newspaper. In cold weather if the composition feels chilled it will not absorb the ink properly, and the copies will be faint unless it be carefully warmed to a moderate temperature. Attention to these details will produce the most gratifying results.

Foliotypes.

Horace M. Engle, Esq., of Marietta, Pa., has devised a method of taking leaf-prints of marked beauty, which he terms “foliotypes,” some specimens of which he sent to Dr. Gray, the eminent botanist, who pronounced the process a new way, and advised him to send an account of it to the Botanical Gazette, which he generously did. We have employed the method according to the explanation there given (which we reprint in full) with the most delightful results, having secured prints of some beautiful leaves which are faithful to nature in color and outline, with all their delicate tracery: “The method is of actual usefulness to the botanist, as well as a refining recreation for others who love Nature ‘on general principles.’ For illustrating monographs and similar papers, where the number is too limited to warrant an expensive lithograph; for identifying a rare specimen, or as an adjunct to an herbarium, combining portability, unalterability, and beauty withal the method seems particularly fitted. But aside from this others may find a delightful and instructive recreation in taking prints of the entire flora of the old farm, the trees of a certain grove, the native annuals of a county, the ferns of a State, or any other special field that seems most inviting. Such copies may be taken in a blank book suited to the purpose, or, better, take them on single sheets of uniform size, as in this way imperfect copies may be thrown out, and when the work is completed they may be named, classified, and bound, making a volume of real value and worthy of just pride.

“The process consists in using the leaf for producing an impression as a printer uses type, the ink being green, and the pressure applied either by hand or with a press. There will be needed for the work (1) a small ink roller such as printers use for inking type by hand in taking proofs; (2) a stout window glass (10×12 is a good size) fastened securely (not glued, as it may warp and break,) to an evenly planed board about twice its surface, say 10×24. A small quantity of the ink is put on the glass and spread with a knife, after which it is distributed evenly by going over in all directions with the ink roller. When this has been carefully done the leaf to be copied is laid on a piece of waste paper and inked by applying the roller once or more with moderate pressure. This leaves a film of ink on the veins and network of the leaf, which should then be placed on a piece of blank paper and considerable pressure applied for a few moments. When the leaf is removed from the paper the work is done.

“To get the best results several points must be carefully noted. Get a quarter or half a pound of dark green ink, which is put up in collapsible tubes costing from fifty cents to $2 per pound, according to quality. As sold it is invariably too thick for this purpose, and should be thinned by adding several drops of balsam of copaiba to as much ink as may be taken on a salt spoon. Much depends on the proper consistency of the ink. In inking the leaf is liable to curl on the roller, but it should part readily from it. In case it sticks tightly the ink is too thick. Take care that the ink is evenly distributed on the glass and roller, as it is essential that each part of the leaf receives an equal coating of ink. If the leaf is large ink it part by part, keeping the roller well supplied. A roller three inches long, costing forty cents, will answer for all small leaves and branches of plants. Clean the roller and glass with benzine after using. If the leaf is finely veined the lower surface makes the better print, but if the veins are coarse and large the upper surface may be used. If the specimen is fleshy or brittle allow it to wilt until it becomes more pliable, or if necessary it may be pressed and dried first. In most cases the best copy is obtained after taking one or two impressions, as the leaf takes the ink better after several applications. A good quality of unsized paper that is made slightly damp by placing between sheets of moist newspaper is best for general work, but in other cases well sized paper will take a copy that will allow a foliotype (may I coin the word?) to bear inspection side by side with a good lithograph. I find a copying press very valuable in making the impression, especially if the leaf is at all coriaceous. If it be soft it should be covered with a few thicknesses of newspaper. If it is irregular in thickness, paper may be laid over the thin parts, so that equal pressure is received. This is necessary with all leaves that have thick stems. If the branch is very irregular or delicate, or in the absence of a press of any kind, the specimen may be covered with several layers of paper, and held in place by one hand while the pressure is applied by the thumb or palm of the other hand as required.

“These particulars are as complete as practicable. Experiments will lead to many improvements in details. Employ tact and neatness, and you will be surprised at the result.”

Fire-Extinguishers.

Hand Grenades.

Prof. F. S. Kedzie of the Michigan State Agricultural College, after a series of analyses and experiments, draws some important conclusions as to the value of hand-​grenades, in a paper which he publishes in the Chicago Sanitary News. A Harden hand-​grenade was opened, and the solution contained qualitatively analyzed. It consisted of common salt, sulphate of lime, and a small amount of acetate of soda. The principal ingredient was common salt.

The effort was made to determine (1) whether the solution in the grenades had any more extinguishing power than water; (2) if the solution had extinguishing power greater than water, what was the essential ingredient in the solution. The question that first arose regarding the composition of the grenades was: Did they contain carbon dioxide gas or any substance that would give up the gas by being heated? Opening the grenades under water and collecting the gas that escaped it was found that the average amount of carbon dioxide contained was about one cubic inch per grenade. Boiling the solution liberated a slight amount of gas in addition; but altogether the gas was not enough to be of any practical benefit in extinguishing fire. It was then certain that the extinguishing power was in the solution itself. Replacing the solution in the grenade with pure water the extinguishing power, while greater than water thrown from a dish upon flaming boards, was still much less than the power exerted by the solution.

By a careful series of trials it was found that the essential ingredient was common salt. From a number of experiments it was found that when a grenade, or a bottle containing a strong brine, was broken in the midst of the burning kerosene the flames were almost instantly extinguished. A vapor seemed to spread in all directions from where the salt solution struck the board, extinguishing the flame as it went. Strong solutions were also made of sulphate of soda, hyposulphite of soda, borax (biborate of soda), and bicarbonate of soda and tried as fire extinguishers. Some worked as well, but none any better, than common salt in extinguishing fire. The experiment was then made of charging the bottles with brine and generating carbon dioxide by adding lime dust and sulphuric acid and corking tightly. No practical increase in extinguishing power from this addition was noticed. In most instances the carbon dioxide gas escaped from the bottles inside of four days, proving that it is impracticable to attempt to use glass vessels with corks as a means of storing CO₂ under pressure for fire extinguishing.

The conclusion reached from these and many more experiments was that the Harden grenade solution possesses much greater extinguishing power than water alone, and that it owed this power to common salt held in solution. We then constructed some home-​made grenades, using flat bottles bound together side by side with wire. Using two bottles in this way insures their being broken in striking the burning body, which would not always occur when only one bottle is used. Bottles thus charged with brine and bound together were broken side by side with the Harden grenades and found to be equally valuable.

It thus appears from the experiment that any person can construct as good and effective grenades as those offered in the market at $7 and $10 per dozen. Bottles filled with brine and placed around the premises will afford considerable protection, especially when used upon the flames when the fire just begins. Salt solutions have the further advantage of not being easily frozen—never enough to burst the bottles.

The Lewis hand fire-extinguisher was next investigated. This consists of a tin tube about two feet long containing thirty-four fluid ounces of soda in weak caustic ammonia. From the trials made we could not notice any appreciable superiority over the salt solution as used in the Harden grenade. It has the disadvantage of not being made to break by being thrown, but must be opened by having a cork extracted from one end of the tube, requiring a smart jerk. The solution is then sprinkled on the fire by the operator.

We herewith append a number of fire-extinguishing compounds, all of which are highly recommended by various authorities:

Munich Fire-Extinguishing Powder.

Richardson’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.

Vienna Fire-Extinguishing Powder.

Proteau’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.

Mix thoroughly and add 1 1/2 pounds of this mixture to each gallon of water, when required.

Transferring Photographs.

[ON GLASS.]

This beautiful and valuable process of transferring photographs in plain or colored work has been taught at high prices under various high-​sounding names, such as “Roman art,” etc. Photographs can be transferred and preserved for years which would have been soiled, faded, and ruined if allowed to remain on the card.

Separate the paper print from the background or card by steaming it, after which dry thoroughly. Warm the glass slightly and coat evenly with balsam or negative varnish and place the print face downward on the surface thus prepared. After smoothing it carefully set away in a cool place until the varnish has hardened. Then apply water, and with a soft piece of gum rubber rub off the paper so as to leave the photographic image on the varnished glass.

Stamping Patterns.

Draw the pattern upon heavy paper and perforate with small holes all the lines with the point of some sharp instrument, dust the following powder through the perforations, remove the pattern and pass a warm iron over the fabric, when the pattern will become fixed. Any desired color can be used, such as Prussian blue, chrome green, yellow, vermilion, etc.:

Powder very fine, mix, and pass through a sieve.

Magic Paper.

[FOR TRANSFERRING AND COPYING.]

This paper is really a valuable article, and is manufactured and sold under various names, such as the “stylograph,” “rapid copying process,” etc. It is used principally by salesmen in keeping a record of their sales, as three copies can be taken simultaneously with one writing. In this way traveling salesmen can with one writing give a copy of his sale to his customer (which is frequently demanded), another he can send to his firm, and retain the third one for his own use. It is used in a similar manner in nearly all the large stores, and by many individuals in their business correspondence. It is also valuable for transferring figures in embroidery and taking impressions of leaves for herbariums, etc., which it does beautifully, but for the latter purpose nothing equals the foliotype method previously explained.

The paper is made by mixing pure lard or sweet oil to the consistence of cream with either of the following paints, the color of which is desired: Prussian blue, lamp black, Venetian red, or chrome green, either of which should be rubbed with a knife on a plate or flat surface until smooth. Use rather thin but firm paper; put on with a sponge and wipe off as dry as possible. Lay the sheets between uncolored paper or newspaper, and press by laying books or some other flat substance upon them until the surplus oil is absorbed, when it is ready for use.

For Copying Letters and Orders.—Either two or three copies can be made at one time, as desired. To make two copies place a sheet of the magic paper between the two sheets selected for the order, bill, or letter, and write upon the upper sheet with a hard lead pencil (the harder the lead the cleaner the copy). It is best to place a piece of hard cardboard under all the sheets while writing.

To make three copies use two sheets of magic paper, placing one between the first and second leaves and the other between the second and third leaves. Proceed as in taking two copies by writing upon the top leaf. A stout, thin linen paper will produce the best results, but almost any kind will do.

To Transfer Embroidery Patterns.—Place a piece of thin paper over the embroidery to prevent soiling; then lay on the magic paper and put on the cloth you wish to take the copy on to embroider; pin fast and rub over with a spoon-handle, and every part of the raised figure will show upon the plain cloth.

To Take Impressions of Leaves.—Place the leaf between two sheets of the magic paper and rub it over hard; then take the leaf out and place it between two sheets of white paper; rub again, and you will have a beautiful impression of both sides of the leaf or flower.

Cleaning Preparations.

Lightning Grease Renovator.

An excellent general preparation for removing grease, paint, etc.

Dissolve, after which add and mix thoroughly,

An elegant general preparation for cleaning gloves, silks, etc., is made as follows:

Mix, and perfume with cologne, lavender, or any desired odor. Do not use near a flame.

“Gantein” for Cleansing Gloves.—The preparation sold under this name is made as follows: Dissolve 6 parts of soap in 2 parts of water; add 4 parts of bleaching liquor and  1/4 part of aqua ammonia. Rub the gloves with the fluid until clean.

Cleaning Tarnished Silverware.

[IN USE BY ALL LEADING JEWELERS.]

Mix and dissolve. Label it “poison,” and place out of the reach of children. Have the article clean and free from grease; dip in solution till tarnish is off, but no longer (and under no circumstances leave it in too long). After immersion the article must be taken out and thoroughly rinsed in a number of waters (warm preferred), then dried with a soft rag or sawdust.

Another method, which is safe and cheap, consists in using a saturated solution of hyposulphite of soda to which a little bolted whiting has been added. Apply with a brush or cloth until the tarnish is removed.

Clark’s Wash for Carpets.

Solution 1.—Dissolve 10 parts of soap in 20 of water, and add 3 1/2 parts of soda and one-half part of liquid ammonia and spirit of wine.

Solution 2.—Is the actual cleansing liquid, and consists of 4 parts of liquid ammonia and 3 of alcohol diluted with water.

The last solution is first used, and when the dirt loosened by it has been removed the soap solution is applied. Carpets thus treated regain their original colors in all their freshness, the entire operation of washing and drying a large carpet requiring but two hours, and the carpet need not be taken up.

Universal Stain Table.

Showing at a glance what means to employ in removing any kind of stain from any kind of fabric. Red acid stains are destroyed by ammonia, followed by thorough washing with water. Burn stains of nitric acid are permanent. Great care must be observed when ether and benzine are used. Keep the open bottle and the fabric being cleaned away from an open fire or blaze. The ether especially is so volatile that an open bottle will take fire from a gas-jet or blaze several feet away if the draft is right. You cannot be too careful.

UNIVERSAL STAIN-REMOVING TABLE.

Liebig’s Washing Fluid.

SAVING HALF THE WASH-BOARD LABOR.

Boil a short time, stirring occasionally; then let it settle and pour off the clear liquid into a bottle or jug and cork for use. Soak your clothes over night in simple water; wring out and soap wrist-bands, collars, and dirty or stained places. Have your boiler filled with water, and when at scalding heat put in a teacupful of the fluid, then put in your clothes and boil for half an hour, after which rub lightly through one suds only, rinsing well in the bluing water, and all is complete.

For each additional boiler of clothes add half a cup of the fluid; of course boiling in the same water through the whole washing. If more water is needed in the boiler for the last clothes dip it from the sudsing tub. Soak your woolen and calico in the suds from which you have washed the white clothes, while hanging them out dipping in some of the boiling water from the boiler, if necessary; then wash out the woolen and calico as usual—of course washing out woolen goods before you do the calico. The fluid brightens instead of fading the colors.—Dr. Chase.

Premium Washing Fluid.—This fluid is equal to the best that can be prepared, and as it is recommended to be used in a simpler manner than the foregoing many will doubtless prefer it:

Dissolve the sal soda, borax, and sal tartar in the hot water and add the other ingredients. Soak the clothes over night in water to which has been added a table-spoonful of the fluid for each gallon of water; also add a little in washing water.

How I Iron Shirts.

BY MRS. HUSBANDPLEASER.

Take two ounces of spermaceti, one ounce of white wax, one ounce of paraffine. Mix and put in a saucer over a tea-kettle in which water is boiling, until melted, stirring several times. Then let it get cold, after which put in a clean box for use.

To make the starch: For two shirts, collars, and cuffs take one table-spoonful of starch dissolved in water; shave a piece of the above into it the size of a bean. Pour boiling water into it until thick, cook twenty minutes and set away to cool. Take one table-spoonful of starch, dissolve it in cold water, and when the boiled starch gets lukewarm pour it over it, stir well, and strain. Have the garments dry and lay the starch on the wrong side and work it through. Be careful that the starch is rubbed in until the right side is wet all over. When well saturated roll up tight in a clean cloth. They need not lay but a few minutes. Stretch them on a bosom-board, and with a damp cloth rub out all the wrinkles. Lay a fine cloth over and iron it twice. If a collar or cuff turn it over and do the same on the other side. Take off the cloth and iron perfectly dry. If the bosom has pleats raise them before ironing dry and dry under them. After the bosom is perfectly dry (for this polishing process you need a good, smooth, hard board about two by one and a half feet—the harder the better—a marble slab of that size is better still), put the bosom on the bare board, dip a clean white cloth in water, wring almost dry, rub lightly over the bosom, then rub it with a dry cloth, and polish with back of iron or with polishing iron. If any dirt gets on rub off with a damp cloth and polish again. The polishing is not necessarily done the same day they are ironed. If your time is limited, or your work interrupted by callers or other duties, lay them aside after having ironed them perfectly dry.

Liquid Washing Bluing.

This makes the very best quality of bluing at a slight cost.

Family Washing Soaps.

We see no reason why every economical housewife should not profit by these simple methods of preparing cheap laundry soap, as they are the results of practical experience.

Best Soft Soap.

Take 4 pounds of white bar soap, cut it fine, and dissolve by heating in 4 gallons of soft water, after which add 1 pound of sal soda. Dissolve and mix thoroughly. If it is desired the soap can be made thicker by adding less water.

Hard Soap With Lard.

Dissolve the lime and soda in the water by boiling, stirring, and settling; pour off, then return to the kettle (brass or copper), add the lard and boil it until it becomes soap. Then pour into a dish or molds, and when cool cut it into bars and dry it.

White Hard Soap With Tallow.

Take 2 pounds each of fresh-slacked lime, sal soda, and tallow; dissolve the soda in 1 gallon of boiling soft water, stirring occasionally every few hours after which let it settle, pouring off the clear liquor and boiling the tallow therein until it is all dissolved; cool it in a flat box or pan, and cut into bars or cakes as desired. It may be perfumed with oil of sassafras or any other perfume desired, stirring it in when cool.

Cleaning Soiled Wall-paper.

The old form of this process was to use stale bread or bread baked to a proper consistency, but it seldom produces satisfactory results except in the hands of experts, and then it is an impossibility to keep from scratching the surface of the paper with the sharp points of the crust. A dough preparation known only to a few experts engaged in cleaning walls by contract, and who have been known to make from $5 to $25 per day, is now used, which is far superior in every way to anything yet discovered. The walls can be cleaned over and over again, each time appearing as bright as new paper.

Mix the flour and whiting thoroughly, and add enough water to bring it to the consistency of ordinary dough. Use by taking a small piece—about twice the size of a hen’s egg. Press against the wall and remove the dirt by making long strokes. After making a stroke knead the dirt into the dough, and continue doing so until it is useless. A quart of the preparation used in this manner will clean the walls of a good-sized room.

When it is desired to keep the ingredients of the composition a secret a coloring matter may be added to assist in mystifying. When the walls are discolored by grease or marks where people have rested their heads, mix pipeclay to the consistency of cream, lay it on the spot and allow it to remain until the following day, when it may be easily removed with a penknife or brush.

Polishing Preparations.

Polishing Pastes.

Reduce the fossil silica to a very fine powder and mix it with the iron; melt the petrolatum, add the cotton-seed oil, stir in the powders, and while cooling add the flavoring oil and stir until ready to set, then run into boxes similar to ordinary blacking boxes. Apply with a soft rag dipped in the paste, and finish with a clean cloth. Prepared chalk or whiting can be used instead of fossil silica. The paste does its work faster than the polishing powder, and if the articles are very much corroded it is preferable.

Another excellent paste, which can be put in boxes or formed into balls and allowed to harden, is to take finely powdered rotten-stone, sift it thoroughly through muslin or a hair sieve, and knead with a sufficient quantity of soft soap to form a stiff paste. To  1/2 pound of this mass add 1 3/4 fluid ounces of oil of turpentine.

Cleaning Powder for Show Windows, Mirrors, Etc.

Moisten calcined magnesia with pure benzine. The mixture should be preserved in bottles with glass stoppers, as the benzine is very volatile. Use by placing a little of the mixture on a wad of cotton and apply to the glass.

Marble Cleaning.

Rub with muriatic acid diluted with water, care being taken that it is not too strong. Repeat the process till clean, then wash with clear water. When the marble is very dirty, as in the case of old tombstones, use the following:

Mix, apply with a brush, and sponge off with clear water. Repeat until clean, then polish with pumice stone continually moistened with water as you proceed.

Furniture Varnish.