The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined

ERRATA.

Page	43,	line	1 and 2,	for beef pallets read beef palates.
——	61,	——	19,	—— half read halves.
——	77,	——	17,	—— tarragon of vinegar read tarragon vinegar.
——	177,	——	18,	—— pickled read picked.
——	183,	——	19,	—— solomongundy read salmagundy.

THE
ART of COOKERY.

Beef Stock.

Cut chuck beef into pieces, put it into a pot, set it on the fire, with a sufficient quantity of water to cover it. When it boils skim it clean; add a bunch of parsley and thyme, cleaned carrots, leeks, onions, turnips, celery, and a little salt. Let the meat boil till tender, skim off the fat, then strain it through a fine hair sieve.

Veal Stock, for Soups.

Take a leg of veal and some lean ham, cut them into pieces, put them into a pan with a quart of water, some peeled carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery; draw them down till nearly tender, but of no colour; then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the ingredients, boil all together one hour, skim it free from fat, and strain it. Some game drawn down with it will make it excellent.

N. B. I have directed the veal stock not to be drawn down to a colour, as in that state it will answer two purposes; first, for white soups; and, secondly, as it might be coloured with a bright liquid to any height, which will be directed for gravy soups. It frequently happens, likewise, that, if not strictly attended to, it will burn.

Consumé, or the Essence of Meat.

Reduce veal stock to a good consistence, but be careful not to let it colour.

Cullis, or a thick Gravy.

Take slices of ham, veal, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, a small bunch of sweet herbs, some allspice, black pepper, mace, a piece of lemon-peel, and two bay leaves; put them into a pan with a quart of water, and draw them down till of a light brown colour, but be careful not to let it burn; then discharge it with beef stock. When it boils, skim it very clean from fat, and thicken it with flour and water, or flour and butter passed. Let it boil gently three quarters of an hour; season it to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; strain it through a tamis cloth or sieve, and add a little liquid of colour, which may be made as in the following receipt.

Liquid of Colour for Sauces, &c.

Put a quarter of a pound of the best brown sugar into a frying pan very clean from grease, and half a gill of water; set it over a gentle fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is thoroughly burnt and of a good bright colour, then discharge it with water; when it boils skim it and strain it. Put it by for use in a vessel close covered.

Benshamelle.

Take white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions cut in pieces, a blade of mace, a little whole white pepper; sweat them down till three parts tender, then discharge it with beef stock. Let it boil, skim it clean, and thicken with flour and water, or flour and butter passed; add to it a sufficient quantity of cream to make it quite white. Let it simmer gently half an hour, and strain it through a tamis cloth.

N. B. Let it be of the thickness of light batter.

To make a passing of Flour and Butter for Cullis or Benshamelle.

Put fresh butter into a stewpan over a fire, when it is melted add a sufficient quantity of sifted flour to make it into a paste, and mix them together with a whisk over a very slow fire for ten minutes.

Soup a la Reine.

Take three quarts of veal stock with a blade of mace boiled in it; then strain it to the crumb of four penny french rolls, three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and pounded very fine, likewise the white meat of dressed fowl pounded. Let all simmer together for ten minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth till the soup is of a proper thickness; season it to the palate with salt; make it boil, and serve it up with a gill of cream in it.

Crayfish Soup.

Take three quarts of veal stock, the crumb of four penny french rolls, the meats of a hen lobster, and half a hundred crayfish pounded, with some live lobster spawn; add all together, make it boil, skim it clean, rub it through a tamis cloth, make it of a middling thickness, and season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Serve it up with crust of french bread cut into small round pieces.

Vermicelli Soup, white.

Take three quarts of veal stock and two ounces of vermicelli, boil them together a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tamis cloth, season with salt, make it boil, skim it, and add a leason. Let it simmer for five minutes.

To make the Leason.

Take the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a little salt, mixed well together.

Cleared brown Stock for Gravy Soups.

Take three quarts of veal stock perfectly free from fat; add a small quantity of liquid colour to make it of a fine brown; season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper; beat up together two yolks, two whites, and two shells of eggs; whisk them with the stock, set it over a fire, let it boil gently ten minutes, then strain it through a tamis cloth. This stock is required for rice, brown vermicelli, celery, santé, or turnip soups.

N. B. I have directed the brown stock, for gravy soups only, to be cleared with eggs, as that method has been most approved, it being pleasant to the eye, and equally agreeable to the palate.

Rice Soup.

Add to three quarts of cleared stock two ounces of rice, washed, picked, parboiled, and drained dry. Let it boil gently till the rice is tender.

Celery Soup.

Cut celery heads two inches long then, some of the white part into small pieces; wash, blanch, and drain it, and put to it three quarts of cleared stock. Make it boil, skim it, and let the celery simmer till tender.

Turnip Soup.

Pare good and firm turnips, cut them with a knife or scoop into shapes, fry them with a bit of lard till of a light brown colour, then drain and wipe them free from fat (or they may be steamed with a very little water, to prevent them from burning, till they are half done); then put to them cleared stock, and boil them gently till tender.

Cressey Soup.

Take twelve large red carrots, scrape them clean, cut off only the red part in thin slices, and put them in a stewpan with a quart of water; add cleaned turnips, celery, leeks, and onions, cut in pieces, and half a pint of split peas. Stew all together till tender, adding some stock to prevent burning; then rub it through a tamis, and put to the pulp five pints of veal stock and some blanched water-cresses; make it boil for twenty minutes, skim it, season it with salt, and serve it up.

N. B. To be the thickness of peas soup.

Santé, or Spring Soup.

Pare, and cut into shapes, turnips and carrots, likewise celery heads about two inches long; wash them, and steam them separately with a very little water till they are three parts done; then cut the white part of the celery into small pieces, likewise leeks, cabbage, cos lettuces, endive, and chervil, of each a small quantity; blanch and drain them dry, then put all the vegetables together; add to them three quarts of cleared brown stock, and boil them gently till tender. In spring add young green peas, tops of asparagus, and button onions, steamed as the above.

N. B. A small piece of bouillie beef may be stewed till tender; and ten minutes before it is to be served up wipe it dry, and put it into the soup with the vegetables.

Onion Soup.

Take eight middling-sized peeled onions, cut them into very thin slices, pass them with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and flour till tender; then add three quarts of veal stock; make it boil twenty minutes; skim it, season it with salt, and add a leason; mix it well with a whisk, make it simmer, and serve it up.

Green Peas Soup.

Take one quart of young green peas, four turnips pared and cut in the form of dice, two cos lettuces cut in small slices, two middling-sized onions cut very fine; wash them, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stew them till nearly done. Then take two quarts of large fresh green peas, and boil them in three quarts of veal stock till tender; strain and pound them, preserving the liquor; then rub the peas through a tamis, and add the pulp with the liquor to the above herbs, a little flour and water, pepper and salt, and season to the palate, with a bit of sugar if approved. Boil all together half an hour; skim it and when it is to be served up, add the pulp of some boiled parsley rubbed through a tamis to make it look green.

N. B. Cut pieces of bread into thin sippets, dry them before the fire, and serve up on a plate.

Old Peas Soup.

Take chuck beef cut into pieces, knuckles of ham and veal, pickle pork cut into square pieces of half a pound each; put all into a pot with peeled turnips, leeks, onions, carrots, and celery, cut into slices, and some old split peas, with a sufficient quantity of water; when it boils, skim it, and add a very small bunch of dried mint. Let the ingredients boil till tender, then take the mint out, rub the soup through a tamis till of a good thickness; when done, add to the liquor, turnips cut in form of dice, celery and leeks cut small and washed. Make the soup boil, skim it, season with pepper and salt, and serve it up with the pork in it. Some bread cut in form of dice, and fried, to be served up on a dish.

N. B. The pork to be taken out when nearly done, and added to the soup half an hour before it is served up.

Peas Soup another way.

Put the peas with the above-mentioned vegetables into a pot with some water; stew them gently till tender, then add a little dried mint, and rub them through a tamis cloth; put the pulp to some good veal stock, likewise add some turnips pared and cut into forms like dice, some leeks and celery cut small and blanched; season to the palate with pepper and salt; then making it boil, skim it, and stew the herbs till tender. Serve it up with pieces of pickle pork in it.

N. B. The pickle pork to be cut into small square pieces and boiled till nearly done, and then added to the soup a quarter of an hour before it is to be served up to table. Let the soup be of a proper thickness.

Giblet Soup.

Let the giblets be scalded, picked clean, and cut in pieces; which done, put them in a stewpan, season them with herbs and spice, the same as for real turtle; add some veal stock, stew them till nearly done, pick them free from the herbs, chop the bones down, strain, thicken, and season the liquor, as for real turtle; make it boil, then add it to the giblets, stew them till tender, and serve them up with egg and forcemeat balls.

Fish Meagré Soup.

Take pieces of different sorts of fish, such as salmon, skate, soles, &c. Sweat them till tender, with turnip, onion, celery, a clove of garlick, and a blade of mace; then add some plain veal broth. Let all simmer together for half an hour; then strain and skim it free from fat; season with salt and cayenne pepper; clear it with white of eggs, and colour with a little saffron.

N. B. It may be served up with celery or rice in it.

Mock Turtle of Calf's Head.

Take a scalp cleaned by the butcher, scald it for twenty minutes, then wash it clean, cut it into pieces two inches square, add a gallon of veal stock, and boil them till nearly done. Have ready some pieces of veal cut in form of dice, but four times larger, seasoned with herbs, spices, and onions, the same as real turtle; and strain to it the liquor the scalp is boiled in. Let the meat simmer till almost done; pick it, and add to it the scalp with forcemeat and egg balls; then thicken the liquor as for real turtle, and when it boils skim it clean, put it to the meats, and simmer all together half an hour.

Mutton Broth.

Take a neck of mutton cut into pieces, preserving a handsome piece to be served up in the tureen. Put all in a stewpot with three quarts of cold beef stock, or water with a little oatmeal mixed in it, some turnips, onions, leeks, celery cut in pieces, and a small bunch of thyme and parsley. When it boils skim it clean, and take the piece of mutton out when nearly done, and let the other boil till tender; then have ready turnips cut in form of dice, some leeks, celery, half a cabbage, and parsley, all cut small, and some marigolds; wash them, strain the liquor of the meat, skim it free from fat, add it to the ingredients, with the piece of mutton, and a little pearl barley if approved; season with salt, simmer all together till done, and serve it up with toasted bread on a plate.

Real Turtle.

Hang the turtle up by the hind fins, and cut off the head overnight; in the morning cut off the fore fins at the joints, and the callipee all round; then take out the entrails, and be careful not to break the gall; after which cut off the hind fins and all the meat from the bones, callipee and callipash; then chop the callipee and callipash into pieces; scald them together, the fins being whole, but take care not to let the scales set. When cleaned, chop the fins into pieces four inches long; wash the pieces of the callipee, callipash, and fins, and put them into a pot with the bones and a sufficient quantity of water to cover; then add a bunch of sweet herbs and whole onions, and skim it when the liquor boils. When the fins are nearly done take them out, together with the remainder of the turtle, when done, picked free from bone. Then strain the liquor and boil it down till reduced to one third part; after which cut the meat into pieces four times larger than dice; put it into a pot, add a mixture of herbs chopped fine, such as knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley, a very little basil, some chopped onions, some beaten spices, as allspice, a few cloves, a little mace, black pepper, salt, some veal stock, and the liquor that was reduced. Boil the meat till three parts done, pick it free from herbs, strain the liquor through a tamis sieve, make a passing of flour and three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixing it well over a fire for some time, and then add to it madeira wine, (if a turtle of seventy pounds weight, three pints,) and the liquor of the meat. When it boils, skim it clean, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt, and strain it to the pieces of fins and shell in one pot, and the lean meat into another; and if the turtle produce any real green fat, let it be boiled till done, then strained, cut into pieces, and added to the fins and shell, and then simmer each meat till tender. When it is to be served up, put a little fat at the bottom of the tureens, some lean in the center, and more fat at the top, with egg and force-meat balls, and a few entrails.

N. B. The entrails must be cleaned well, then boiled in water till very tender, and preserved as white as possible, and just before they are strained off add the balls. If a callipash is served up, the shell to be cut down on each side, and chop the pieces for the soup; the remaining part of the back shell to be pasted round with a raised crust, egged, ornamented, and baked, and the soup served in it in the same manner as in the tureens.

Callipee.

Take a quarter of the under part of a turtle of sixty pounds weight, and scald it, and when done, take the shoulder-bone out and fill the cavity with a good high-seasoned forcemeat made with the lean of the turtle; put it into a stewpan, and add a pint of madeira wine, cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, a clove of garlick, a little mace, a few cloves and allspice tied in a bag, a bunch of sweet herbs, some whole onions, and three quarts of good beef stock. Stew gently till three parts done; then take the turtle and put it into another stewpan, with some of the entrails boiled and some egg balls; add a little thickening of flour and butter to the liquor, let it boil, and strain it to the turtle, &c. then stew it till tender, and the liquor almost reduced to a glaize. Serve it up in a deep dish, pasted round as a callipash, ornamented and baked.

N. B. I think the above mode of serving it up in a dish the best, as it frequently happens that the shell of the callipee is not properly baked.

Glaize for Hams, Larding, roasted Poultry, &c.

Take a leg of veal, lean of ham, beef, some indifferent fowls, celery, turnips, carrots, onions, leeks cleaned and cut into pieces, a little lemon peel, mace, and black pepper, a small quantity of each; add three quarts of water, sweat them down till three parts done, discharge with water, and boil it till the goodness is extracted; then skim it, and strain the liquor into a large pan. Next day take the fat from it very clean; set the stock over a fire, and when warm clear it with whites and a few yolks of eggs; then add a little colour and strain it through a tamis; boil it quick till reduced to a glaize, and be careful not to let it burn.

N. B. In the same manner may be made glaize of separate herbs or roots, which will be serviceable on board a ship, or in the country, where herbs or roots cannot be procured at all times; and they are to be preserved in bottles, as they will not, when cold, be of a portable substance.

Fish plain boiled to be prepared thus:

Put them in clean boiling pump water well salted, and when served up to be garnished with fresh picked parsley and scraped horseradish; except salt fish, which should be properly soaked, then cut in pieces and put in cold water, and when it boils let it simmer six or eight minutes, and serve it up on a napkin with boiled parsnips and potatoes round, or on a plate, and egg sauce in a boat.

N. B. Fish should be chosen very fresh and of good appearance, it adding as much to their beauty as gratifying to the palate when dressed, there being in my opinion but two sorts—good and bad. But as an exception to the above observation, skate will be better for eating if kept for one or two days in a cool place before it is dressed.

For January.
1^st. Course
Small Ham	Soup Santé Slises Crimp'd Cod	Tendlons Veal white
M^d. & whole Potatoes	Rump Beef glaiz^d w^th. Harricott	Brocoli
Pullet w^th. Oyster Sauce	Whitings Broil'd Mock'd Turtle	Raiz'd Lamb Pies
2^d. Course
Scollop Shells	Wood Cocks Roast. Apple Fritters	Stew'd Mushrooms
Triffle	Shellfish in an Ornamented Ba^s.	Jelly
Stew'd Cardoons	Fry'd Puffs w^th. Sweetmeats Partridges Roast.	Omlett w^th. Cullis

February.
1^st. Course
Frieandd Veal w^th. Sorrell	Soup Cressey	Petite Patties
Tongue w^th. M^d. Turnips	Fillet Mutton Roasted w^th. Celleri	Chickens Boil'd
Beef Pallets	Rice Soup	Cutlets Pork w^th. Stew'd red Cabbage
	Crimp'd Seaite Water Soucher	to remove Soup
2^d. Course
Golding Pippins Cream'd	Capon Roasted	Lobster Sallad
Forc'd Asparagus	Sweetbread Roast	Forc'd French Beans
Slic'd Brawn	Teal Roast	Ribband Blancmange

March.
1^st. Course
Soup and Boullie
Soles Fry'd and Boild
Crimp'd Cods Head
Soup ala Reine
2^d. Course
Harricott of Begetables	Fillet Pork Roast.	Potatoes Mash'd
Mash'd Turnips	French Pie Leg Lamb and Spinach	Veal Olives
3^d. Course
Marbree Jelly	Turkey Roast.	Tourte
Brocoli ala Sauce	Pick'd Crabb	Sausages
Pyrimid of Paste	Large Pidgeons Roast.	Pippins w^th. Rice

April.
1^st. Course
Tongue Boild &c.	Mock'd Turtle	Chickens w^th. Sweetbreads White
Sallad	Beef Forc'd and Roasted w^th. Oy^s. Sauce	Rice
Currie	Vermiceli Soup	Cutlets Lamb
	Crimp'd Salmon & Fry'd Smelts Stew'd Tench	to remove Soup
2^d. Course
Apricot tart w^th. Carrimel	Levrett Roast	Dutch Blancmange
Stew'd Cellery	Prawnes	Mushrooms Broild
Almond Cake	Ducklings Roast.	Apple Tart

May.
1^st. Course
Giblet Soup Mullets Broild Turbot Spring Soup
2^d. Course
Potatoes Each way	Haunch Mutton roast Chickens	Compotte of Pidgeons
Beef Tails Stew'd	Ham Glaiz'd	Vegetable Puffs Fry'd
3^d. Course
Jelly w^th. Strawberrys	Green Goose Roast	Goosberry Tart
Asparagus	Ornament w^th. Flowers	Artichoack Bottoms
Pine Apple Tartlets	Turkey Poults Roast	White Blancmange

June.
1^st. Course
Chicken Tourte	Green Peas Soup	Cutlets Mutton
Cauliflowers	Roast Beef	New Potatoes
Tendlons Veal w^th. Peas	Crimp'd Trout	Lambs Head Minc'd
2^d. Course
Shellfish	Duckling Roast. French Beans ala Cream	Cherry Tart
Sweetbread Roast.	Jelly & Blancmange	Neck House Lamb Roast.
Codling tart Cream'd	Green Peas Pidgeons Roast.	Plovers Eggs

July.
1^st. Course
Rabbits w^th. Onions	Turtle	Chickens
Garden Beans	Calla Pash	Cauliflower
Small Ham Glaiz'd	Turtle	Fillet Lamb w^th. Cucumbers
2 Small dishes Fish to remove Turtle
2^d. Course
Goosberry Cream in Cups	Haunch Venison roast	Apricot Tart
French Beans	Pick'd Crabb	Artichoak Bottoms
Raspberry Tourte	Poullet roast.	Mirangles

August.
1^st. Course
Brest Lamb w^th. Celleri	Soles Each way	Pullet w^th. Oy^s.
Potatoes	Onion Soup	Stew'd Spanish Onions
Fillet Beef Larded & Glaiz'd	Salmon & Fry'd Fillets of Haddock	Raiz'd Ham Pie
	Small Chine Mutton Roasted	to remove the Soup
2^d. Course
Orange Puffs	Wheat Ears roast	Jelly w^th. Peaches
Scollop Shells	Frame	Mushrooms Stew'd White
Almond Custards	Levrett Roast	Pulpton of Apples

September.
1^st. Course
Fricassee of Chickens	a Pike Baked	Fillet Mutton & Stew'd Endive
Fry'd Celleri	Turnip Soup	French Sallad
Fillet Pork Roast	Crimp'd Cod and Fry'd Smelts	Cutlets Veal Larded
2^d. Course
Ragout of Sweetbreads	Partridges Roast	Maceroni
Muffing pud^g. w^th. dry'd Cherries	Chantillie Baskett	Damson Tart
Eggs ala Trip	Larks Roast	Lambs Fry

October.
1^st. Course
Pidgeons ala Craupidine	Johndoree	Foule w^th. Trouffles Sauce
Cauliflower	Partridge Soup	Stew'd Spinach
Chicken Puffs	Trout	Rump Beef w^th. Spanish Onions
2^d. Course
Raspberry Tourte	Wild Duck Roast	Jellys
Fry'd Sweetbreads	Ribs House Lamb Roast	Oyster Attets
Apples Frosted	Pheasant Roast	Marrow Pud^g.

November.
1^st. Course
Pickle Tongue Forc'd	Water Souchee	Raiz'd Pie w^th. Macroni
Ragout of Vegetables	Soup and Boullie	Cauliflower & French Beans
Chickens w^th. Bershamelle	Slices Cod Fry'd w^th. Oyster Sauce	Cutlets Pork w^th. Fry'd Potatoes
	Loine Veale ala Cream	to remove Soup
2^d. Course
Fritters	Wood Cocks Roast	Coffee Cream
Jerusalem Artichoaks	Potted Beef Moddled	Stew'd Water Cresses
Preserved Apricot Tart	Partridges Roast	Golding Pippins w^th. Jelly

December.
1^st. Course
Leg Lamb w^th. Spinach	Turbot	Wings and Legs Fowles Glaiz'd
Pidgeon Tourte	Hodge Podge	Pickled Beet Roots
Pheasant Au Choux	Crimp'd Cods Head	Small Chine Mutton Roast
2^d. Course
Apple Tart w^th. Perfumed Cream	Turkey Roast Potted Charr	Pancakes
Stew'd Cardoons Brown	Jellies	Lambs Tails w^th. Bershamelle
Minced Pies	Prawnes Snipes Roast	Potatoe Pudding

The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined

About This Book

ERRATA.

THE ART of COOKERY.

THE
ART of COOKERY.