The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

No. 1112. Lentilles à la Comte au riz.

Cook your lentils as above, then put four pats of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well and moisten with a little of the liquor from the lentils, boil two minutes keeping it stirred, then add your lentils and a little chopped parsley, boil altogether and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir in quickly and when it thickens serve as in the last.

No. 1113. Truffles.

Périgord is the only place renowned throughout the world as the favourite soil for this recherché vegetable, and our celebrated diplomatist, Talleyrand de Périgord, was indeed a worthy owner, for he was not only a great diplomatist but likewise a great gourmet. Having an interview with any distinguished personage upon any question of political importance, after patiently hearing, his usual reply was, I will consider of it after dinner; perhaps your excellency will favour me with a call to-morrow morning;—and ringing the bell often call for his bill of fare and order some of his most favourite dishes. But in eulogizing Talleyrand and the produce of his estate I must not forget to mention that the truffles of Piedmont though partly white are very excellent, likewise in Burgundy, and many very good ones are now found in the southern counties of England, especially in Hampshire, but none are equal to those from Périgord. The white are dressed the same as the black.

No. 1114. Truffes au vin de Champagne.

Soak twelve large truffles in lukewarm water two hours, then with a rather hard scrubbing-brush clean them well in two or three waters, picking the dirt from the eyes with a small pointed knife, when thoroughly clean cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, one carrot, one turnip, two onions, (cut in slices,) a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and one blade of mace, put in the truffles, which half cover with some good white stock, let simmer half an hour, then add half a pint of champagne, simmer another half hour, but be sure the cover of the stewpan fits tight, take off the stewpan and surround it with ice with a weight upon the cover; when quite cold drain and serve upon a napkin. None but the black truffles ought to be dressed in the above manner. I generally serve their liquor, which is excellent, in a sauce-boat with them. Season a little more if required.

No. 1115. Croute aux Truffes.

Wash them as in the last and peel lightly with a knife, cut them into thin slices, put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, then your truffles, which season rather highly with pepper, salt, and two glasses of sherry, set them over a slow fire, turning them over occasionally; when tender and becoming glazy add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), shake all round together over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar, and serve them over four crusts, thus: cut two French rolls in halves lengthwise, scoop out the crumb, butter the crusts and broil them, glaze, lay them upon your dish and pour the truffles over.

No. 1116. Truffes en croustade à l’Italienne.

Cut and fry a very pretty croustade of bread, dress it upon your dish, sauté your truffles as in the last, pour them into the croustade and sauce over with a white Italienne sauce (No. 31).

No. 1117. Truffes demi Piémontaise.

Procure some truffles as large as possible, wash and peel as before, cut them in slices and put them into a sauté-pan, with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, fry very gently, add two pieces of bruised garlic, a glass of sherry, and six spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), mix altogether well, boil gently, add a little sugar and juice of lemon, and serve them in your dish upon a piece of toasted bread.

No. 1118. Truffes à la Dino.

If you should have some of the truffes au vin de champagne left from a previous dinner, scoop out the interior so as to leave them quite shells, chop what you have taken from them rather coarse, with a few mushrooms, mix them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), season well, and fill each truffle with it, egg them all over and cover with some chopped truffles, braise them slowly in some good stock for one hour, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.

No. 1119. Omelette aux fines herbes.

Break eight eggs in a stewpan, to which add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, half ditto of salt, a pinch of pepper, and three good tablespoonfuls of cream, beat them well together, then put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan, stand it over a sharp fire, and as soon as the butter is hot pour in the eggs, stir them round quickly with a spoon until delicately set, then shake the pan round, leave it a moment to colour the omelette, hold the pan in a slanting position, just tap it upon the stove to bring the omelette to a proper shape, and roll the flap over with a spoon, turn it upon your dish, glaze lightly, and serve with a quarter of a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9) round; omelettes must not be too much done, and must be served as soon as done.

No. 1120. Omelette au Jambon.

Break eight eggs, season, beat and fry as above, but adding two ounces of lean cooked ham, minced and chopped with the eggs, and using but half the quantity of salt, glaze and sauce round precisely as above.

No. 1121. Omelette aux Truffes.

Make an omelette as for fines herbes, with the addition of two preserved truffles chopped very fine, have also three middling-sized truffles cut in slices, reduce half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) one third, add a little sugar and the truffles, boil three minutes, have the omelette fried in the pan, and when just ready to turn out upon the dish, put the truffles in the centre, with some of the sauce, turn the flap over with a spoon, turn on to your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1122. Omelette aux Champignons.

Proceed exactly as for the last, merely substituting mushrooms for the truffles.

No. 1123. Omelette aux Olives.

Boil half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, then add twelve stoned olives, and a little sugar; make an omelette as for fines herbes, put the olives in the interior, glaze, and sauce round.

No. 1124. Omelette à la Jardinière.

Prepare rather more than half a pint of sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), have it hot in a stewpan, then make an omelette as before, and when ready to turn upon your dish put some of the sauce in the centre; glaze the omelette, pour the remainder of the sauce round, and serve.

No. 1125. Omelette aux Huîtres.

Put half a pint of good oyster sauce (No. 69) in a stewpan, let it be well seasoned, reduce it one third, add twelve or sixteen blanched oysters, let boil up, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; when it thickens have an omelette as in the last; pour the sauce over, glaze, and serve.

No. 1126. Omelette aux filets de Soles.

Put half a pint of good thick oyster sauce in a stewpan upon the fire; you have previously filleted a middling-sized sole, cut each fillet into six or eight small pieces, and when the sauce boils throw them in, boil three minutes, finish the sauce with a liaison, and proceed as in the last.

No. 1127. Omelettes aux Moules.

Proceed exactly as for omelette aux huîtres, but using muscles and sauce (see No. 70) instead of oysters.

No. 1128. Omelette de Homard.

Make about half a pint of nice red lobster sauce (No. 68), into which put the flesh of a small lobster cut in dice; when hot have ready an omelette as before, put some of the sauce in the interior, turn out upon your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1129. Omelette au Sucre.

Break eight eggs into a stewpan, into which put a teaspoonful of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream; put two ounces of butter in an omelette-pan when quite hot, but not discoloured, pour in the eggs, and proceed as for the omelette aux fines herbes (No. 1119), turn out upon your dish, shake some powdered sugar over, salamander a nice colour, and serve.

No. 1130. Omelette au Confiture.

Make an omelette precisely as in the last, and just before turning it upon your dish put two or three spoonfuls of jam or marmalade in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.

No. 1131. Omelette au Rhum.

The same as the last, but the moment of going to table pour three glasses of rum round and set it on fire.

Sweet omelettes may also be served with apricots passed in sugar or rhubarb, as directed in Nos. 1142, 1184; for the remainder of entremets of eggs, see Kitchen at Home.

ENTREMETS.

The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as it is here to which I must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d’œuvres and entrées; to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing, for although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked; should the oven be too hot the paste would become set and burn before it was done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.

For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is hot by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough, but if you cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few observations to all my readers, but particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them.

No. 1132. Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the hand, then fold the paste in three so as to hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour, then roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for the study and trouble.

No. 1133. Puff Paste with Beef Suet.

Where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute: skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last using it instead of butter.

No. 1134. Half Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll and it is ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for which it is well adapted.

No. 1135.[13] Pâte à dresser.

Put three pounds of the best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and the yolks of six eggs; the butter must not be too firm, add half a pint of water, squeeze all well together with your hand, mixing the flour in by degrees, tearing well to pieces with the right hand, holding it with the left until it forms a smooth but stiffish paste, but if so stiff that you cannot work it without cracking, press out flat with your hand, sprinkle water upon it, fold over, press out again, proceeding in like manner until you have obtained the consistency required; you must also be careful not to make it too soft, as in either case you would not be able to use it. This paste must not be too much worked after it is mixed or it would become greasy; more care must be exercised in summer than in winter in this respect, it is used for raised pies either hot or cold.

No. 1136. Pâte fine or Pâte à foncer.

Put three pounds of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, six eggs, and sufficient water to form it into a rather stiffish paste (it will require about half a pint), mix well together, drawing in the flour by degrees; when well mixed, roll out four times as for puff paste, let remain half an hour and it is ready for use where directed.

No. 1137. Pâte d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste.

Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put one pound of sifted sugar, mix it well with twelve eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use.

This paste was very much used when pièces montées were so much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour, the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made.

No. 1138. Pâte d’Amande.

Blanch a pound of almonds, put one fourth of them into a mortar, pound well, moistening with a little water to prevent them oiling; when pounded to a paste take it out, add another fourth, and proceed in like manner till they are all done, then rub them through a hair sieve and put them into a preserving pan with one pound and a half of sifted sugar, set over a slow but equal fire, keep stirring for about five-and-twenty minutes, clearing it from the sides of the pan, press with your finger and if it feels tough take it out and put in the mortar with the eighth of an ounce of gum tragacanth, soaked and squeezed through a napkin; add the juice of a lemon, and pound well together till quite cold, it is then ready for use, but if not used directly roll it up in a ball and place it upon a plate under a basin to keep moist, it will keep for weeks if moist. Of this paste you can form stands, or convert it into any ornament your fancy may direct. Low stands are the best for entremets, being much better than the old-fashioned ones, that were made eight or ten inches in height, and when a jelly or cream served upon it was cut even by the most experienced person as soon as the first spoonful was taken the remainder was often seen dancing upon the table, to the horror of all persons of good taste. For myself I never use anything of the description, except for cold luncheon or supper, and even then of the most simple construction.

No. 1139. Pastillage or Gum Paste.

Put two ounces of gum tragacanth into a small basin, pour a quart of filtered water over it, and cover the basin with a sheet of paper to keep it free from dust; let soak twenty-four hours, then pour off the water and place the gum in a strong cloth, through which squeeze it on to a plate, not leaving a particle in the cloth; then place it upon your pastry slab, work it round with your hand until as white as cream, have an equal quantity of starch-powder, and powdered sugar, which you have passed through a silk sieve, work it in by degrees, keeping it well worked with the hand until it becomes a stiffish paste, firm enough to roll and cut into any shape required. It may be used instead of pâté d’amande.

No. 1140. Vol-au-Vents

Of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) giving it only six rolls and a half instead of seven, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish, then with a sharp-pointed knife cut it out from the paste, holding the knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking sheet, which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven, if getting too much colour cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set cut off the lid and empty it with a knife; if for first course it is ready, but if for second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for entrées will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold colour.

No. 1141. Vol-au-vent de Pêches.

Put three quarters of a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then have twelve peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, six at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a tammie into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve, dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over, served as a compote with small pastry around it; in stewing the fruit, be careful that it does not catch in the least, a round-bottomed pan or regular sugar-pan is the best to use for this purpose, but if not convenient a common stewpan may be used.

No. 1142. Vol-au-vent d’Abricots.

Cut twelve apricots, not quite ripe, in halves, break their stones and blanch their kernels, which with the apricots put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar broken into small pieces, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; stew them ten minutes over a quick fire, moving them round occasionally, then pour them into a basin, which stand upon the ice, when quite cold fill your vol-au-vent and serve; should the apricots be quite ripe, proceed as directed for the peaches, but leaving their skins on.

No. 1143. Vol-au-vent of Greengages.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using twenty or twenty-four greengages instead of the apricots.

No. 1144. Vol-au-vent de Cerises.

Pick and stone four pounds of cherries, which put into a pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, stew them about twenty minutes over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill your vol-au-vent and serve. Should the syrup be too thick, reduce it until thick enough to envelop the fruit.

No. 1145. Vol-au-vent de Poires.

Take twelve middling-sized ripe pears, which cut in halves, peel them neatly, and take out the cores; throw them into a pan, in which you have put the juice of two lemons, and the thin rind of one cut in thin strips and three quarters of a pound of sugar broken small; pass them over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally till tender, put them upon the ice to get cold; when ready, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve.

No. 1146. Vol-au-vent de Pommes.

Procure twenty small golden pippins, peel them neatly, and take out the cores with a long round vegetable cutter; rub them over with lemon, and stew till tender in syrup made from three quarters of a pound of sugar as for the peaches (No. 1141); when cold dress them as high as possible in a vol-au-vent, and when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.

No. 1147. Vol-au-vent d’Oranges.

Take ten fine oranges, cut them in halves, peel them, but not to lose their shapes, have a rather thicker syrup than usual, simmer the oranges five minutes, ten at a time, lay them upon a dish, reduce the syrup, and when cold dress in pyramid in a vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over.

No. 1148. Gateau de Millefeuille à la Moderne.

Make a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, roll out to the thickness of two penny-pieces, from which cut ten round pieces, each about five inches in diameter, sprinkle water over two baking-sheets, upon which lay them, wet lightly with water, and sprinkle a little rough sugar over them, but not too coarse; bake very crisp in a moderate oven, keeping them as white as possible; when baked lay one upon your dish, which cover with apricot marmalade; then another, which cover with orange marmelade; then another, which cover with currant jelly, proceeding thus to the top; when finished mask the whole over with apricot marmalade, sprinkling plenty of very finely chopped pistachios round, and decorate the top with what dessert fruits you have in season, cherries, strawberries, or raisins, dressed in pyramid.

No. 1149. Turban à la Crème aux Macarons amers.

Give half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) ten rolls, and from it cut eight round pieces of the same size as in the last; then with the same cutter cut three pieces out of each in the form of middling-sized leaves, wet lightly upon the top, and dip them into some coarse sugar (pounded and sifted through a coarse wire sieve), place them upon a wet baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven as white as possible; then have ready a round board a quarter of an inch thick, and, according to the size of your dish, made of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked in a moderate oven; boil also half a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), dip the ends of the pieces of pastry singly into it, and build them in crown upon the rim of your board, one row surmounted by another, dressed the reverse way; make a meringue mixture with two whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which lay in fillets, with a paper cornet upon the top; sprinkle over with some very green chopped pistachios, and set in a warm place to dry, but not any longer than necessary; whip a pint of good double cream very stiff, with which mix a little sugar, a quarter of a pound of crushed ratafias, and a glass of good noyeau; put the cream in the turban when ready to serve.

No. 1150. Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) give it nine rolls, from it cut eight round pieces half an inch in thickness, then with a cutter, four sizes smaller, cut a piece from the centre of each, so as to form rings; place them upon a baking-sheet, wet the tops lightly, and sprinkle a little coarse sugar over; bake them in a moderate oven as white as possible, dress one upon the bottom of your dish, cover it with a sweetmeat of some description, and proceed in like manner to the top; fill with any of the fruits as described for the vol-au-vents, have a little cream whipped very stiff lay it in piping with a paper cornet, between each ring, and garnish the top tastefully with fillets of red currant jelly or green angelica.

No. 1151. Gateau de Pithiviers.

Blanch and pound well half a pound of almonds, moistening them with a little white of egg to keep them from oiling; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, beat well together till it becomes smooth and creamy, then add the yolks of four eggs; beat two minutes longer, add the pounded almonds, with two ounces of crushed ratafias, and half a gill of whipped cream; you have previously made half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), divide it nearly in halves, having one piece larger than the other, mould them gently into two balls, roll out the smallest to the thickness of a penny, keeping it quite round, lay it upon a baking-sheet, put the above mixture in the centre, and spread it over, leaving the space of half an inch from the edge all round, roll out the other piece of paste rather larger and thicker than the former, wet the first sheet round the edges with a paste-brush, and cover the other over, closing it carefully, trim and notch round, egg over the top, and with the back of your knife sketch some design upon it; bake three quarters of an hour in a warm oven, but when the paste is sufficiently coloured, cover with a sheet of paper; when done sift a little sugar over, and glaze with the salamander.

The original cake is baked quite white by using water instead of eggs, and throwing sugar over; my objection to which is, that many people in this country, from its appearance, fancy it is not sufficiently baked, and must be indigestible; it may, however, be baked either way, according to fancy.

No. 1152. Tourte d’Entremet à la Crème.

Make a piece of paste thus: place six ounces of flour upon your slab, with three ounces of butter, rub well together, make a hole in the centre, in which put one egg, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a very little water, mix well together, then mix the whole into a stiffish paste; roll it out of the size and shape you want your tourte, and place it upon a baking-sheet, then have ready a pound of puff paste, roll it to about three quarters of an inch in thickness, cut out a piece exactly of the same size and shape as the other, cut out the centre, so as to leave a band of about an inch in breadth, wet the piece of paste upon the baking-sheet, and place the band upon it at the rim, pressing down lightly; egg it upon the top, but do not let it touch the side; mark round with the back of your knife every quarter of an inch, and fill the interior with frangipane (No. 1295), bake about half an hour in a warm oven, and serve when cold.

Should you require the tourte for a flanc instead of an entremet, you must roll the paste oval instead of round, and make a long band of puff paste, which lay round the rim, carefully joining it at each end, by cutting one end slantwise under, and the other over, making it of the same thickness; egg the band upon the top, but do not let it run over the edges previous to baking.

No. 1153. Tourte d’Entremet à la Marmelade de Pommes.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon a baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apple marmalade (No. 1389) spread it within an inch and a half of the edges all round, roll out a piece of the trimmings of puff paste very thin, from which cut about forty narrow bands, wet the edges of the paste, and string the bands tastefully over the marmalade, forming diamond shapes; have ready a band of puff paste as in the last, which place round the apples, pressing it closely to the bottom sheet, egg the top, and bake as in the last; when done shake sugar over the top, and glaze lightly with the salamander.

No. 1154. Tourte d’Entremet au Confiture.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon your baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apricot, greengage, or strawberry jam; roll out a very thin sheet of puff paste, wet the edges of the sheet, and cover over the jam, closing it down at the edges; trim it level, have ready a band of paste, as in the last, wet round, place the band round, press it close, then with a sharp-pointed knife make incisions upon the thin paste over the marmalade, cutting quite through, forming some fancy design, wet slightly, throw sugar over, egg the band upon the top, and bake as before.

No. 1155. Tartelettes pralinées aux Abricots.

Have ready buttered twelve or as many small tartelette pans as you may require, line each one with a piece of puff paste cut with a cutter of the same size as the pans, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of stiff flour and water paste) in each, and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done take out the little balls, turn the tartelettes upside down, shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, shake sugar in the interior, which also glaze with the salamander; you have previously chopped two ounces of almonds very fine, which put into a basin, with two ounces of sugar, and mix well with the white of an egg, spread a little upon the bottom of each tartelette, shake a little sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry; when ready to serve put an apricot in each, stewed as for the vol-au-vent d’abricots (No. 1142). They may be served salamandered very crisp upon both sides, omitting the almonds.

No. 1156. Tartelettes de Pêches.

Make your tartelettes as in the last and fill with peaches dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1141).

No. 1157. Tartelettes aux Cerises.

Proceed as before, filling them when baked with cherries dressed as for the vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1158. Tartelettes aux Groseilles vertes.

Make the tartelettes as before, have ready three pints of young green gooseberries, which put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar and half a wineglassful of water, place them over a sharp fire, moving them round occasionally till done, which you may ascertain by their shrivelled appearance, if too much done they will become quite brown, put them in a basin and leave them till quite cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1159. Tartelettes of Greengages.

Prepare your tartelettes as before and fill with greengages prepared as directed for the vol-au-vent (No. 1143).

No. 1160. Tartelettes aux Fraises.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, pick a fine pottle of strawberries, which put into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, shake them well together, fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1161. Tartelettes de Pommes.

Prepare the tartelettes as usual, and have ready prepared ten apples (golden pippins) cut each one in halves, take out the cores and peel them neatly, put the juice of a lemon in your sugar-pan into which throw them as you peel them; when they are all done add half a pound of lump sugar and a little thin lemon-peel cut in strips, stew them gently till tender and leave them to get cold in their syrup, then fill the tartelettes, half an apple in each, mix a little apricot marmalade with the syrup, pour a little over each and serve.

No. 1162. Tartelettes de Poires.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, then have eight or ten small ripe pears, cut them in halves and proceed precisely as with the apples in the last, serve the same.

No. 1163. Tartelettes of Cranberries.

Prepare the tartelettes as directed, then have ready three pints of cranberries which you have drained and stewed over a sharp fire, with one pound of lump sugar and two ounces of green angelica cut in fillets, until the syrup becomes very thick, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

The cranberries sold in London I believe are from America; they are tolerably good, but nothing to compare to those I have used in Shropshire and Wales; they grow in that part of the country in meadows close to the water; upon my first going there I was quite unacquainted with the merit of this beautiful fruit, but soon perceived that very beautiful entremets might be made from them, besides plain tarts, for which they were daily used; their bitterness and peculiar wild flavour rendering them very palatable and wholesome. I have thought proper to make this remark, knowing that so few people are aware of their merit and that so many are actually spoilt for want of gathering.

No. 1164. Tartelettes d’Oranges.

Prepare the tartelettes as described, have eight oranges, peel and cut off the white pith and divide each orange into twelve pieces, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, reduce till rather thick, then throw in half the oranges, let them boil one minute, take them out, lay them upon a dish, and put in the remainder, stew one minute as before, reduce the syrup again, and when nearly cold pour it over the oranges; when ready fill your tartelettes and serve.

No. 1165. Fauchonettes à la Vanille.

Line eighteen tartelette pans with puff paste as for tartelettes, but do not work up the edges so high, have also a crème made in the following manner: put a pint of milk into a stewpan and when it boils put in a stick of vanille, and reduce the milk to half, in another stewpan have the yolks of three eggs, with an ounce and a half of powdered sugar and one of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the vanille, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens; when cold fill the tartelettes and bake them nicely in a moderate oven, when baked and cold have ready a meringue mixture of four eggs, (see No. 1218,) a teaspoonful of which lay upon each, spreading it quite flat with a knife, make a ring of seven small button meringues round each upon the top with a larger one in the centre, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven till of a light brown colour and the meringue quite crisp; to serve, dress them pyramidically upon your dish.

No. 1166. Dauphines.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, and place a small piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, which cover with a custard made as directed in the last, bake them in a moderate oven; when cold prepare a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which form a very high pyramid upon the top of each tartelette, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry, keeping them very white; serve cold, dressed round upon a napkin.

No. 1167. Tartelettes à la Pompadour.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, have also eighteen pieces of brioche paste (No. 1321), each the size of a walnut, roll them out to the thickness of a penny-piece, keeping them round, place a piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, wet the paste, fold it over the marmalade to form a ball, and turn them over into your tartelettes, wet the tops, turn them over on some rough pounded sugar, place them upon a baking-sheet, bake in a moderate oven, dress pyramidically upon a napkin and serve quite hot.

No. 1168. Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange.

Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and bake them in a moderate oven.

No. 1169. Mirlitons aux Amandes.

Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied orange-flowers.

No. 1170. Mirlitons au Citron.

Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the orange-flowers.

No. 1171. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly.

Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers; when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with the cream over and serve.

No. 1172. Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots.

Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled au cassé (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar, in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it, which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots, peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.

No. 1173. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Gelée mousseuse.

Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if not in season, a brandied cherry.

No. 1174. Petits Puits aux Pistachios

Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green) and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.

No. 1175. Gateau fourré à la Crème.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece, sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon a border of apple marmalade.

No. 1176. Gateau fourré au Confiture.

Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last, but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.

No. 1177. Gateau fourré, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes.

Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the sweatmeats before mentioned.

No. 1178. Gateau fourré Anglo-Français.

Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done; you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino, which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau fourré à la crème, substituting the above preparation for the frangipane.

No. 1179. Petits Gateaux fourrés au Confiture.

Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and give them a bad appearance.

No. 1180. Petits Gateaux fourrés (round).

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter, lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177) in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over, press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter, with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above directions, they may be made smaller if required.

No. 1181. Petits Gateaux fourrés aux Amandes.

Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold serve as before.

No. 1182. Petits Gateaux fourrés Meringué.

Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect. You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with jellies as before, they may be made oval also.

No. 1183. Patisserie d’Amandes à la Condé.

Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required, spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.

No. 1184. Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe.

Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb (very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches, greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be served in this manner.

No. 1185. Petits Gateaux d’Abricots.

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square, in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of that form, and covering one over the other.

No. 1186. Petits Gateaux renversés.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1187. Petites Bouchées à la Patissière.

Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top; then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter, taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of preserve.

No. 1188. Eventail aux Cerises.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1189. Petits Gateaux à la Royale.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.

There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.

No. 1190. A Flan of Puff Paste.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out, letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out, empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould, sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of making fresh.

No. 1191. Flan de Pommes à la Portugaise.

Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pâte fine, No. 1136), roll it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with pâte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples (golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either hot or cold.

No. 1192. Flan de Poires.

Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.

Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for vol-au-vents.

No. 1193. Flanc à la Crème pralinée.

Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295), in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar all over, and glaze with the salamander.

No. 1194. Pâté à Choux.

Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course be made.

No. 1195. Petits Choux à la Crème.

Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits choux, and serve as in the last.

No. 1196. Petits Choux aux Amandes.

Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183); put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold fill and serve as before.

No. 1197. Petits Choux à la Comtesse.

Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before, and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.

No. 1198. Petits Choux en Gimblettes.

Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece; egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require to be filled.

No. 1199. Petits Pains à la Crèmière.

Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve dressed in pyramid, and very hot.

No. 1200. Madeline au vin de Ports.

Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.

They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the sauce over.

No. 1201. Genoises.

Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt, half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg (melted but not hot); butter a sauté-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing (No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of preserves.

No. 1202. Genoises fourées.

Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sauté-pan; when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when well made very excellent.

No, 1203. Genoises à l’Orange.

Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament it as before.

No. 1204. Genoises aux Pistaches.

Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No. 1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them, their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with marmalade when ready to serve.

No. 1205. Darioles.

Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pâte à foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg, beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven, when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.

No. 1206. Biscatelles.

Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a sauté-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.

No. 1207. Gateaux à l’Indienne.

Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white; when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.

No. 1208. Gauffres aux Pistaches.

Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet, curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife before putting them upon the spoon.