Loop 1 (Third Portion).
DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.
[For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.]
For the first part of this section of the route the road is retraced through Rhuddlan, and here, if the traveller be interested in a grand example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, Bodelwyddan Church may be visited. It lies two miles from Rhuddlan, to the right of the road; was erected by Lady Willoughby de Broke; cost £60,000; and is called the 'Marble Church,' from the whiteness of the local limestone of which it is built. The spire and exterior are extremely pleasing, while the richness of the interior, with its marbles, wood-carving, stained glass, and excess of structural adornments, make it well worth a visit. A good road leads back to the trunk route.
THE CEFN CAVES,
reached by a side-road about two and a half miles from Trefnant. These lie in the grounds of Cefn Hall, and are open on Tuesday and Friday afternoons. They are deep cavities in the limestone rock, at one time inhabited by primeval man, whose bones and many interesting relics of his existence have been found by careful excavation of the floors. A very fine view of the Vale of the Clwyd, which has been rather overpraised, is obtained at this spot.
DENBIGH
In Denbigh a long, broad street leads up to the centre of the town, and here the chief attraction, the castle, may be visited. Passing up through a Norman gateway, which once formed part of the boundary of the ancient town, and was called Burgess's Tower, the ruins of the long-abandoned parish church, or garrison church of St. Hilary, are seen on the spacious castle green. The old parish church of the town is at Whitchurch, on the road to Ruthin. The stately ruins of the great Norman fortress, which kept watch and ward over this portion of the Vale of the Clwyd for so many centuries, crowns the summit of this conical hill, and is perched nearly 500 feet above sea-level. Long before the Norman invasion this vantage-point had been seized upon for a stronghold, but the great epoch for Denbigh happened when Edward I. sat down in Rhuddlan and gathered into his conquering hands the fair lands of Wales, consolidating his power by building a castle in each. Denbigh and Ruthin, ruled by the Laceys and the Greys respectively, formed the nuclei of two counties. Here Henry Percy, in the wars with Glendower, tried to stem the tide of insurrection; and later, in the Wars of the Roses, it was a centre of that desolation and destruction which overwhelmed the valley under Jasper Tudor and the Earl of Pembroke, and reduced it to a land of smouldering embers. But one of the most stirring episodes in the history of the castle was the grand defence made by Colonel William Salusbury, the stout old Royalist, who, in the summer of 1646, valiantly held the walls against the Parliamentarians. From April until November it was assaulted in vain, for Salusbury had sworn that he would not surrender it except at the bidding of his King. This was eventually obtained, and the garrison marched out with, if possible, more than the honours of war. Soon afterwards the castle was completely dismantled, and now chiefly serves as a place of assembly for the townspeople, a recreation-ground, and a coign of vantage, under favourable circumstances, for a splendid view over the Vale.
The road to Ruthin leads out of the busy market-place, and a mile beyond the town one reaches the fine old church of Whitchurch, now only used for burial services. It belongs to the Perpendicular period, and in it parts of the rood-screen may be seen, converted into a reredos, and a screen at the west end of the north aisle. An interesting brass to Richard Myddelton, who died 1575, is preserved here; he was the Governor of Denbigh Castle, and is represented with his wife and a small family of sixteen. The Myddeltons, like the Salusburys, have left indelible traces upon this part of Wales, and of the sons represented on the brass, one became a Lord Mayor of London, and another, the sixth, is perhaps the best known to Englishmen, as he was the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddelton who brought the New River to the metropolis. The ancestral home of this family, Chirk Castle, will be visited en route.
After another one and a half miles, Llanrhaiadr Church is seen, whose interior is interesting on account of the 'Jesse' window, of fine fifteenth-century glass, purchased with the offerings of pilgrims to the holy well in the wooded glen above the church. It is in a remarkably good state of preservation, with the colours rich and brilliant. Outside the east window are the graves of five soldiers who fell in the famous siege of Denbigh; under one lies Captain Wynne, of the great house of Gwydir, near Llanrwst. He died from wounds in the castle, and by mutual arrangement the cortège was permitted to pass through the lines of the beleaguers, the Parliamentarians firing the last salute over the grave of the hero.
Between Llanrhaiadr and Ruthin the highest points of the Clwydian Range come prominently into view, the huge ruin on Moel Fammau, to which reference has been made in connection with Mold, being plainly visible.
RUTHIN (RED CASTLE)
The road leads into the central square of the town, from the south side of which issues Castle Street. The modern Ruthin Castle is occupied by Colonel W. Cornwallis West, Lord-Lieutenant of Denbighshire, and the ruins stand in the Park. (Permission to enter may be obtained at the lodge.) The remains consist of a dungeon, a 'Beheading Tower,' an armoury, and some curious passages. A whipping-post is also preserved. The ruins, deep red in hue, and mantled by the rich green of the clinging foliage, with a setting beyond of the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd, form a picture rich in colour. Reginald de Grey owned the castle shortly after its erection in 1280, and it remained in the possession of his family until about 1480. Owen Glendower attempted its capture in 1400, but the Parliamentarians were more successful, for it fell in 1646, after a siege of three months, from which time it has been a ruin. Sir Thomas Myddelton of Chirk became owner, and the present possessor has inherited it from him in the female line. The castle was partially rebuilt in 1826, and brought to its present condition in 1852.
The Church of St. Peter is an imposing edifice, chiefly Perpendicular, and contains a finely decorated roof of Henry VII.'s period, beautifully carved in black oak and divided into 500 small panels. The old building adjacent and the church are the remains of a Priory of White Friars, and form a very picturesque addition; near them are the former buildings of the Grammar School, founded in 1574. The foundation is now accommodated in better surroundings.
The natural environs of Ruthin are of great beauty, and this part of the Clwyd Valley is a favourite place of residence. Upon Moel Feulli are the remains of a fortified British camp, enlarged by the Romans, and from it and Moel Fammau magnificent views may be obtained.
Leaving Ruthin, the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd is traversed, and the watershed between the latter river and the Dee crossed at a height of 600 feet. After passing through the narrow Vale of Nantclwyd, with its towering limestone rocks, the small church of Derwen, lying off the road to the right of Derwen Station, is seen. It contains a handsome fifteenth-century screen and rood-loft, with a time-honoured thirteenth-century cross in the churchyard.
CORWEN
is a centre for the railway system of Wales, but possesses no special attractions, unless the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger upon the lintel of the south door of the church, inflicted, so it is said, when in a pet, be deemed one, though probably the tradition had its origin in the dagger carved on the shaft of an eighth-century cross in the same churchyard. The summit of the rock behind the town, whereon stands a cairn, was the point whence Glendower reviewed his troops previous to the Battle of Shrewsbury. The short climb is rewarded by a pleasing view.
LLANGOLLEN
is reached by a part of the Telford-Holyhead road, which is generally in magnificent condition. Pretty views of the Dee, the Berwyn Mountains on the right, the Llantysilio Mountains on the left, and the Eglwyseg rocks in front, are obtained, and the most beautiful part of the hill country of Wales, as contrasted with the mountain scenery, is presented to the eye. The loveliest views are those lying round the town, rivalling in beauty, and perhaps surpassing, any found elsewhere in Britain. The Bridge is one of the "Wonders of Wales," dating from 1345, and Plas Newydd, lying about half a mile from the bridge, the residence of the famed ladies of Llangollen, should on no account be missed. The romance of their lives is too lengthy for inclusion here, but may be readily learnt on the spot. The house is an aggregation of carved oak within and without. No one should visit Llangollen without ascending Castell Dinas Brân, which towers to a height of 1,000 feet above the village. The origin of the quaint ruins upon the summit is lost in antiquity, but is attributed to one of the early Princes of Powis. The tide of war has raged scores of times round the hoary fragments upon the crest, which look like the eyrie of a robber baron or the fantastic imaginings of a Doré. When the castle emerges into the light of history we find that Griffith, the son of Madoc, occupied it in the thirteenth century, and that about a hundred years afterwards it fell into ruin.
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
(admission 6d.) lies two miles by road from Llangollen. Founded by the above-named Griffith in A.D. 1200, it is necessarily in the Early English style, and dog-tooth ornamentation may be discovered in the west end. The beautiful ruin appeals to artist and antiquary alike, and is considered the most picturesque in Wales. A little way off to the north is Eliseg's Pillar, a most astonishing early monument put up by Concenn ap Cadell ap Brochmail to the memory of his great-grandfather, Eliseg, who lived as far back as the beginning of the seventh century. It is no longer possible to read the Latin inscription giving these facts, and the remarkable monument itself has suffered much mutilation. Llangollen is a town in which a week can be spent with profit and pleasure, so numerous are the places of interest in the immediate neighbourhood. The fine escarpment of the limestone rocks, the Eglwyseg, lying above the village, are conspicuous on the left for some distance on leaving for Ruabon through the Vale of Llangollen, where the famed Wynnstay Park is situated, the residence of Sir H. Watkin Williams-Wynn, Bart. The house is not on view, but admission to the park is freely given by application at the lodge gates, close to the town. The associations of the park are, however, the chief point in connection with it, for the Wynns go back into remote antiquity, and the history of North Wales and the members of this family are inseparable. The pillar standing above the swiftly rushing Dee is a cenotaph perpetuating the names of those who fell in the Irish rebellion of '98, when a Wynn took his company of yeomanry over the water to help in the suppression.
WREXHAM
From Ruabon to Wrexham tram-lines run by the side of the road, but they do not cause much inconvenience, and the road is good. The chief object for visiting the town is to view the church, which is one of the finest, if not the finest, in the Principality, and enumerated among the "Seven Wonders of Wales." It was erected in 1472 to replace a former structure destroyed by fire. It is a splendid example of Perpendicular architecture, the tower of six stages and 135 feet in height being probably unsurpassed, and the rich peal of ten bells it contains are celebrated far and wide—they were made in 1726. The church contains monuments to the Myddelton and other families, and in the churchyard the Elihu Yale tomb is of exceptional interest to Americans.
ELLESMERE
At Wrexham one turns towards the south to Shrewsbury, and Ellesmere is the first town calling for comment. There are many old carved timber houses to be seen, a beautiful contrast to the modern box-of-bricks erections which now so frequently serve for dwellings. No trace of the castle now remains; its site is occupied by a bowling-green, whence a view into nine counties is obtained. The church is chiefly of Perpendicular architecture, and is worth visiting. The chancel screen is of hatchet-work, and over the door may be seen the groove in which the rood formerly stood. The Oteley Chapel has a quaint figure, temp. Edward IV., on the north-west pier, and also an altar-tomb with recumbent figures. The mere from which the town gained its name lies close at hand; four other meres are in the vicinity, and these, with other pleasant concomitants, help to make very pretty and charming scenery for some distance on the road to Shrewsbury. Shortly after leaving the town the Ellesmere Canal—one of Telford's great works—is crossed.
SECTION IV
(TRUNK ROUTE)
SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO,
81½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
| Miles. | ||
| Shrewsbury to Oswestry | 17 | |
| Oswestry to Chirk | 5 | ¾ |
| Chirk to Llangollen | 6 | ¾ |
| Llangollen to Corwen | 10 | |
| Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon | 9 | ¾ |
| Cerrig-y-Druidon to Pentre Voelas | 5 | ½ |
| Pentre Voelas to Bettws-y-Coed | 6 | ¾ |
| Bettws-y-Coed to Llanrwst | 4 | ½ |
| Llanrwst to Tal-y-Cafn | 6 | ¾ |
| Tal-y-Cafn to Glan Conway | 3 | ¾ |
| Glan Conway to Llandudno | 5 | |
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
The Holyhead Road.—Splendid surface; perfect condition generally.
Dangerous hill in Shrewsbury.
A fairly stiff ascent at Chirk, 1 in 18.
Road ascends from Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon.
Last 9 miles into Bettws-y-Coed downhill.
Bettws-y-Coed to Tal-y-Cafn.—Level, then a hill, up and down, 1 in 12.
Near Llandudno Junction.—Steep ascent, 1 in 10.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Shrewsbury.—Castle; free library and museum; market-house; churches; public gardens; town walls.
Montford Bridge.—Pretty road.
Oswestry.—Castle mound; church, with a fine tower.
Chirk.—Castle of great interest; viaduct; aqueduct.
Llangollen.—Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg's Pillar; bridge. The really fine scenery lies beyond Llangollen.
Corwen.—Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.
Conway Falls.—Pandy Mill and Falls, Swallow Falls, all about 2 miles short of Bettws-y-Coed, upon the left, where the Conway Falls Inn will be seen.
Bettws-y-Coed.—Waterloo Bridge (Dolwyddelan Castle).
Llanrwst.—Bridge; Gwydir Castle and Chapel.
Conway.—Castle; bridge; walls of the town; church.
Llandudno.—Watering-place; Great Orme's Head; St. Tudno's Church.
Shrewsbury.—To pass through Shropshire without seeing Shrewsbury would be tantamount to journeying through Italy without visiting Rome. Its physical features are strikingly picturesque, and it has almost as many antiquities as Chester. Fortunately, too, the objects of interest are grouped together.
The town lies in a loop of the Severn, with the castle protecting the opening. It is of red sandstone, and dates in part from the time of Edward I. The grounds are open, but the building is private. The free library and museum, opposite the castle, occupy the old buildings of Shrewsbury School, founded in the reign of Edward VI. The museum contains many 'finds' from Uriconium. The school now occupies magnificent buildings south of the town. Passing up Castle Street, the old Council House gateway is upon the left, and soon after a turn to the left at the post office brings one to St. Mary's Church, a noble building, of which the base of the tower and the nave are Norman, the transept Early English, and the aisles Perpendicular, and other portions late Perpendicular. The tower, with its spire 222 feet high, is the third loftiest in the kingdom. The general appearance of the interior is very beautiful, and the Jesse window of fourteenth-century glass should be especially noticed; it was originally in the Grey Friars' monastery. The glass as a whole excels that of any other English parish church; the St. Bernard window, for example, on the north side of the altar, attributed to Albert Dürer, came from a church at Cologne. St. Alkmund's Church can be seen from St. Mary's, and passing that, and also St. Julian's Church, the old Wyle Cop may be reached. Among the ancient timbered houses there is one in which Henry VII. stayed prior to Bosworth in 1485. Passing over the English Bridge, the Abbey Church is reached, with its imposing west front and great Perpendicular window, and the tower, the base of which is Norman, rising from the west end of the nave. Internally the latter possesses three massive Norman bays, and two of the Early English period, a fine arch in the latter style dividing it from the tower. The chancel and clerestory have been rebuilt recently in good taste. There are some interesting monumental effigies; one in the south aisle is supposed to represent the founder, Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury, died 1094. In this church, then the Chapel of the Monastery of the Holy Cross, Richard II. held the 'great Parliament' in 1377.
Returning to the town, the road by Beeches Lane will lead by way of the old walls to Murivance Tower, the only one remaining of the twenty which once guarded the town. A short distance farther on, the 'Quarry,' with its beautiful avenues of lime-trees by the river, is reached, one of the spots of which Shrewsbury is justly proud.
Having safely negotiated the dangerous hill in Shrewsbury, the road to Oswestry is easily found, and, as nothing of supreme importance is encountered before that town appears, the beauties of the Holyhead Road may be appreciated.
OSWESTRY
The Church possesses a remarkably fine tower, which presents a venerable appearance by reason of the growth of vegetation upon it. A portion was pulled down during the Civil War, and rebuilt some time after the Restoration. The interior should be visited, although there are no special features upon which to dilate. About a mile to the north of the town lies Old Oswestry, a very fine and well-preserved earthwork, consisting of three concentric circles of defences. A portion of Wat's Dyke lies adjacent. This was the first ditch made by Offa, King of Mercia, in the eighth century to prevent Welsh incursions; the second, called Offa's Dyke, was dug a few miles nearer the Welsh border, and generally parallel to the first.
A stiff rise in the road announces that Chirk is at hand, and the celebrated castle is the first point of interest.
CHIRK CASTLE,
anciently, Castel-y-Waen, is the only example of the thirty great fortalices in Shropshire erected to control the Welsh border which remains in complete repair and is occupied at the present time. It is indelibly associated with the Myddeltons, an ancient Denbigh family who have been identified with every popular movement in that part of the country for centuries past. The present owner is Mr. Richard Myddelton.
(The Castle is open Mondays and Tuesdays 2 to 5 p.m., 1s. each person; other days special orders, Estate Office, Chirk, 5s. for three persons.)
The builder of the existing fortress was Roger Mortimer, Lord of Chirk, who in 1310 commenced work upon the site of Castell Crogen, which dated from 1011. In 1595 it came into the possession of Sir Thomas Myddelton, subsequently Lord Mayor of London. Sir Hugh Myddelton, of New River fame, was his brother. The Royalists seized the castle in the absence of the second Sir Thomas Myddelton, a Parliamentarian, who had the pleasant experience of battering his own property in the endeavour to retake it. Becoming disgusted with Parliamentarian excesses, he became Royalist again, and was besieged. So much damage was done by the artillery of Cromwell that £30,000 were spent subsequently on repairs.
It is a quadrangular structure, with embattled walls, four towers of great strength at the angles, and another defending the gateway. A court of considerable area occupies the centre. Some very interesting pictures form part of the treasures of the house, and among them is the exquisite cabinet given to Sir Thomas by Charles II. The exterior aspect is extremely pleasing, with ivy-covered walls and red-grey stonework forming a background to the old-world gardens. Traces of Offa's Dyke occur near the farmhouse at the foot of the castle. The beautiful Ceriog Valley is an attractive feature of this neighbourhood.
The road to Llangollen from Chirk commands a fine view of the vale, and a sight of one of the most striking features of the Dee Valley, the great aqueduct conveying the canal across it at a height of 120 feet above the river. An iron trough in the stonework contains the water. There are nineteen arches, and the length is over 1,000 feet. It is one of Telford's masterpieces.
(For a description of the route from Llangollen to Corwen, see pp. 69-71.)
Leaving Corwen, the river is passed by a bridge, and a glimpse afforded up the Vale of Edeyrnion to the left, at the end of which lies Bala Lake and the source of the Dee. There are many glimpses of charming scenery and nestling homesteads to be seen between Corwen and Cerrig-y-Druidon, although the latter lies upon a somewhat bare tableland perched nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. The British camp of Pen-y-Gaer lies to the right of it. Pentre Voelas is situated at the beginning of the long descent into Bettws, and this part of the road commands as beautiful scenery as one could wish to see. A little more than four miles beyond Pentre Voelas is a turning on the left to Penmachno, and a few yards farther on the Conway Falls are seen at the bottom of a deep ravine. The celebrated Fairy Glen may be reached by means of a broad green path, which leaves the main road at the same place as that leading to the Conway Falls. The wicket-gate, beyond which the glen is reached, is nearly three-quarters of a mile down this track. The beauty of the glen is so conspicuously appealing that it has won for itself an almost world-wide renown. The road from this point descends rapidly, crosses the Waterloo Bridge, and enters Bettws-y-Coed.
BETTWS Y COED.
The charm of this delightful locality is felt by everyone who comes within its influence. From the village itself not a mountain is visible, but all around are beautiful glades and the profuse richness of vegetation flourishing in subtle, harmonious accord with rocks and dashing waters. The Miner's Bridge lies about a mile along the Capel Curig Road, with the Swallow Falls a mile farther. To Capel Garmon a footpath ascends, and also a zigzag road. It affords a magnificent panoramic view of the chief heights of the Snowdonian Range, with the exception of Snowdon itself, which is hidden by the grand mass of Moel Siabod. An interesting cromlech lies near Capel Garmon.
Resuming the journey, the road to Llanrwst passes over the Waterloo Bridge and turns sharply to the left. Llyn-y-Parc is seen across the Conway, lying at the base of spurs projecting from the mountains beyond, and Gwydir Castle appears at the farther end of it.
LLANRWST
This ancient market town contains a church dating from the fifteenth century, when it replaced a much older one. It contains several interesting monuments and an elaborate screen. The beautiful Gwydir Chapel was designed by Inigo Jones; it dates from 1633, and contains five brasses of members of the Wynne family. The large stone coffin of Llewellyn the Great, son-in-law of King John, is preserved here, having been removed from Conway Abbey. The effigy in armour represents Howel Coetmore, who led a hundred Denbighshire men at Poitiers.
Gwydir Castle was built in 1555, and partly rebuilt in 1816. In the absence of the family (Lord Carrington is the owner) it is possible that the interesting interior may be seen. The park contains much natural beauty, one conspicuous feature being the lofty Falcon Rock behind the house. Llanrwst Bridge, built by Inigo Jones in 1636, is said to tremble if sudden pressure be placed on one of the parapets.
Two miles out of Llanrwst the village of Trefriew is seen across the river, a summer resort and inland watering-place. Presently the site of Maenan Abbey, which disappeared at the Reformation, is passed, before reaching Maenan House. The mountains lying between the Conway Valley and Nant Ffrancon now present a fine spectacle. Shortly after Tal-y-Cafn a dangerous hill is encountered, and from its summit the Roman station of Canovium, situated near Caerhun on the Carnarvonshire side, may be discerned. As the fishing at this part of the estuary is noted, some coracles may perhaps be seen. The road between Glan Conway and Llandudno reveals grand views of Conway Castle and Mountain, and all the varied scenery which makes the estuary so famous.
LLANDUDNO
The 'Biarritz of Britain' is not an inappropriate name for this favoured town, which possesses every advantage of splendid climate, beautiful scenery, and perfect bathing.
Great Orme's Head is generally the object of the first excursion. In the early morning it looks very imposing, with the exquisite effect of moving mist lying upon the placid waters of the bay at its base, and the summit of the great limestone mass reddened by the hues of the rising sun. It may be seen from the carriage-road which circles it, and affords splendid views of mountain and sea, probably unsurpassed in the kingdom; but the best way is to ascend to the summit by a well-marked road north of the town leading from Church Street, and to visit St. Tudno's Church, with its quaint entrance, 4½ feet in height, of rugged stones, and its general aspect of antiquity. The church is seen from Telegraph Point, which dominates the peninsula. A cromlech lies to the left of the road leading to it, and the remains of a stone circle are above the church. There is plenty of rough scrambling to be obtained.
The carriage-drive is best entered near the pier (motors one shilling toll; pedestrians one penny). The way rises and falls like the Corniche Road; red rocks alternate with white or grey limestone; at times the track is at a giddy height, and presently near the surface of the water. The view up the Menai Straits, with the coasts of Anglesey and Carnarvon nearing each other at the bridges, is very fine, but when the farthest point of the headland is reached, that which leads back to the town is no less beautiful, affording as it does one of the finest prospects of the noble outline of the Carnarvonshire Mountains.
The visitor should not fail to visit the Little Orme, where the sheer cliffs and grassy summit often offer a seclusion much appreciated after the boisterous exuberances of an August crowd. There are many coigns of vantage around Llandudno from which the appreciative traveller can gaze over mountain, sea, and strath, and also a number of interesting edifices that may be visited if sufficient time is allowed.
Unlike Aberystwyth, there is a considerable choice of hotels at Llandudno. The Queen's is recommended for its fine position on the front and for its general excellence.
CONWAY FROM BENARTH.
On the left is the famous Edwardian castle and leading to it is Telford's tubular bridge. Great Orme's Head appears
in the distance.
SECTION V
(TRUNK ROUTE)
LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
| Miles. | ||
| Llandudno to Conway | 3 | ¾ |
| Conway to Penmaenmawr | 4 | ½ |
| Penmaenmawr to Llanfairfechan | 2 | ¾ |
| Llanfairfechan to Bangor | 7 | ¾ |
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
At Penmaenmawr a gradient of 1 in 14.
Before reaching Llanfairfechan 1 in 12. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Conway.—The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century house.
Penmaenmawr.—Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries.
Llanfairfechan.—A typical Welsh watering-place.
Aber.—Falls.
Bangor.—Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral; University buildings.
The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a subject of general congratulation. The entrance to the Castle (admission 3d.) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual, one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales—that from the Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.
In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.
One of the entrances to the Church lies in this street. The building is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal 400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.
The Walls of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn, is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a person in the upper story.
Plas Mawr, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (admission 6d.), dates from 1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are not merely a coincidence.
Leaving Conway, the Sychnant Pass may be traversed if desired; it is a steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine views over the whole district.
The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At Penmaenmawr one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design, nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a height of 1,550 feet—the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be plainly seen from the road.
At Llanfairfechan, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh resort—bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient mountain-climbing.
The Falls at Aber are two miles from the road, and can only be reached by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season; but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church (the key generally hangs up in the porch). A tomb with two recumbent effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the costume of the lady point to c. 1470. The church is charmingly clean and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of things which has been productive of the very best results.
The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view of Penrhyn Castle, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up to the gateway. (Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s. for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds goes to local hospitals.) The castle is an impressive modern reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester, and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman architecture.
BANGOR
Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right, and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space, where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525, yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time, were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.
From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers, who patronize the sands and the pier.
LOOP No. 2
BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED,
20¼ MILES
(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles, or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.)
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
| Miles. | ||
| Bangor to Bethesda | 5 | ¼ |
| Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen | 4 | ½ |
| Llyn Ogwen to Capel Curig | 5 | |
| Capel Curig to Bettws-y-Coed | 5 | ½ |
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
A steady rise from Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen, then level for 2 miles.
A long descent to Bettws-y-Coed, steep at times. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Penrhyn Castle.—Modern Norman structure (open to public).
Llandegai Model Village.—Church, with interesting tomb.
Bethesda Slate Quarries.
Nant Ffrancon.—Scenery wild and grand.
Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.—Stern rock and lake scenery.
Llyn Ogwen.—A wild lake among the mountains.
Capel Curig.—The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon.
Bettws-y-Coed (see p. 84).—A charming village in a steep leafy valley.
Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as 'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added a realistic force to the wildness of the scene.
The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed.
There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to climbers—Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet, send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr, seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his parents.
The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is named Twll Du, or the Black Cleft, but popularly 'The Devil's Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down, forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.' Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year (1910) being by no means immune.
South of Lake Ogwen, Tryfaen, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as previously noticed (see p. 84).
SECTION VI
(TRUNK ROUTE)
BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
| Miles. | ||
| Bangor to Carnarvon | 9 | |
| Carnarvon to Llanberis | 7 | ½ |
| Llanberis to Pen-y-Gwryd | 6 | ½ |
| Pen-y-Gwryd to Beddgelert | 7 | ¾ |
| Beddgelert to Penrhyn Deudraeth | 7 | ½ |
| Penrhyn Deudraeth to Harlech | 6 | ½ |
| Harlech to Barmouth | 11 | |
| Barmouth to Dolgelley | 10 | |
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Bangor to Carnarvon.—Nearly level and splendid surface.
Carnarvon to Llanberis.—Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy gradients and good surface.
Steady rise through Pass of Llanberis.
Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate hills.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Carnarvon.—The Roman town of Segontium; magnificent thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.
Splendid views of the Snowdon precipices.
Llanberis.—A popular resort consisting of old and new villages; Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.
Pass of Llanberis.—Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.
Beddgelert.—A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church; prettiest part of route.
Aberglaslyn.—Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.
Penrhyn.—Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern construction.
Harlech.—County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding position.
Llanbedr.—A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.
Llanddwywe.—Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.
Llanaber.—Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone relic.
Barmouth.—Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent views of the estuary of the Mawddach.
Bontddu.—Water-fall.