Shortly after leaving Dunstable a long, easy descent of the northern slope of the Dunstable Downs occurs, these hills being part of the Chilterns. A fine view over a large part of Bucks and Beds is seen in front, and an interesting sweep of the Downs behind. A number of sleepy little villages occur, each presenting rural features of its own in harmony with the surroundings. At Hockliffe a side-road leads to the beautiful Woburn Park and Abbey. At Fenny Stratford, a small town chiefly consisting of one street, the Roman station of Magiovintum was situated, and coins and other remains are frequently found; the only modern association appears to be connected with Browne Willis, the antiquary, who is buried here. The church is early Georgian, dating from 1724. Seven miles farther on, Stony Stratford, a small uninteresting town, is reached, known chiefly in history through having had an Eleanor Cross, which disappeared in Puritan days, and also from the capture of Edward V. by his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester. Bradwell Abbey, founded in 1155, now a farmhouse, lies about three miles away to the right.
From Stony Stratford to Towcester the route runs as straight as an arrow, and one can imagine the metalled track of the road the legions tramped lying but a few feet beneath the surface. Towcester is the ancient Lactodorum, and the later Tove Castra, or Camp on the River Tove, which flows through the town. Few, if any, Roman remains are now visible, and Easton Neston House with its picturesque park is the only feature of interest in the neighbourhood.
The road to Weedon is somewhat undulating, and rises in places to 500 feet above sea-level, an altitude which has not been reached since leaving Dunstable. At Weedon it is necessary to make a detour to the left, as the Watling Street for some considerable distance has been allowed to fall into disrepair; in fact, it is merely in some cases a trackway through grassy fields, with farmers' gates across the vanished road. The restoration of this part of the Roman way has been proposed at times, but never carried out, the considerable cost and the paucity of towns and villages probably accounting for it. This gap in continuity is to be deplored for sentimental reasons, but not for practical utility, as the track is at times more than undulating.
DAVENTRY
Daventry is a small town possessing but few attractions beyond its historic hotel, the Wheat Sheaf, built in 1610, and known in the annals of Warwickshire as the resting-place of Charles I. (after the taking of Leicester) for six consecutive days in 1645, the Royal troops, both horse and foot, in considerable numbers occupying the surrounding fields. The regal bedchamber may be seen and even occupied, while the courtyard, famous in duelling days, is visible from its window. In one encounter in 1696 a young ensign, named Gardner, gasped out his life after a duel to the death with his lieutenant. Near Daventry lies Althorp Park, the seat of Earl Spencer. In this medieval house, not greatly altered since, James I. and William III. were entertained.
On leaving Daventry the road turns sharply to the right to Kilsby, with a poor surface most of the way. It passes through a well-wooded country, and a short distance beyond Kilsby joins the Watling Street at an acute angle. Upon looking backwards, the line of the ancient highway may be distinctly traced through the fields. From this point until Atherstone is reached, a distance of nearly twenty-three miles, Leicestershire lies upon the right-hand side of the road and Warwickshire upon the left.
Dunsmore Heath is then crossed, and shortly afterwards two lines of railway are passed, the source of the Warwickshire Avon being near the first at Dove Bridge. At Churchover is the birthplace of Cave, of Gentleman's Magazine fame. The main road from Rugby to Lutterworth branches off to the right. Near this point, on the brow of the hill, just north-west of Cave's Inn and on both sides of the Watling Street, is the site of the great Roman station Tripontium. The remains have almost disappeared, but pieces of pottery are plentiful, and coins are now and then unearthed.
RUGBY
lies a few miles to the west of the main route, and is famous for its great school, founded in 1567, being one of the four great public schools in England. The buildings are chiefly in the Tudor style, and date from 1808, with many subsequent additions. Besides the school, there are practically no objects of interest in the town. The road to Lutterworth is slightly undulating, with a good surface.
LUTTERWORTH
is a quiet little country town of about 2,000 inhabitants, lying in a pastoral district fissured occasionally with wooded valleys. It is a typical foxhunting centre. The main street descends a hill somewhat abruptly, and crosses a small bridge over the River Swift, from which point the ashes of Wycliffe were scattered. The church is endeared to the champions of Protestantism by its associations with Wycliffe, and by the tangible relics which are preserved in it of his residence here from 1375 to 1384. The architecture of the church is chiefly of the fourteenth century. The nave is early Perpendicular, but a Decorated window occupies the end of the south aisle, where there was formerly a Lady Chapel. The chancel also is Perpendicular, with an Early English window and door. It is thus somewhat difficult to point out work which belongs to that period when Wycliffe ministered in the building. The greater part of the nave, however, may be thus assigned, and also the fresco over the north doorway, showing a queen between two kings. Over the chancel arch is another fresco. The nave roof is Perpendicular, but the pulpit, from which the reformer preached, is the great object of interest, dating as it does from a period anterior to Wycliffe's incumbency, and is thus over 500 years old. A fragment of a cope or chasuble is interesting as an undoubted relic, but the chair, table, and wooden candlesticks must be regarded with suspicion—the chair more than the others. The 'Morning Star of the Reformation' was buried in the chancel, where his remains rested for thirty years; they were then dug up, burnt, and cast into the river.
The road from Lutterworth, rejoining the Watling Street, emerges at the Cross-in-Hand, where care must be taken in the selection of the right road. From Cross-in-Hand to High Cross there is nothing of particular moment, but at the latter place, where five roads meet, was one of the most important junctions of Roman highways for the Watling Street. It is crossed here by the Foss Way coming from Gloucester, and leading through Leicester to Lincoln. The great station of Venonæ or Benones was situated here, but has entirely disappeared. Taking the road marked 'To Holyhead,' the road leads over Smockington Hill, and a few miles farther on a turning on the left to Nuneaton (two miles off the main road) is reached.
Nuneaton lies in the centre of the 'George Eliot' country, and is the Milverton of the novelist, while Chilvers Coton near it figures in 'Scenes of Clerical Life,' and 'Oldinport' may be traced in 'Newdegate,' the family name of the residents at Arbury Hall, a delightfully situated country-seat a few miles to the south-west of the town. Beyond this Nuneaton possesses no special features, except a church built in the Decorated period, and another—St. Mary's—a modern replica of the Abbey Church which formerly occupied the site.
The spire of Hinckley Church is now seen upon the right, six miles to the north of which lies the Battlefield of Bosworth. The North Warwickshire Coalfield has now been reached, and in the high ground upon the left there is an interesting geological district. The stone quarries worked there were formerly supposed to produce Millstone Grit of the Carboniferous formation, but which has recently been proved to be pre-Cambrian, and necessarily the most ancient of rocks. Hartshill is in this district; it is the birthplace of Michael Drayton, and contains a few ruins of a Norman castle dating from 1125. To the right of the Watling Street lies Fenny Drayton, where George Fox, the founder of the sect of Quakers, was born. Before entering Atherstone the small village of Witherley is passed upon the right, and the River Anker here divides the site of the great Roman station of Manduessedum into two parts. The name has been anglicized into Mancetter. The oblong earthwork yet remains, about 630 feet long and 440 feet broad. The church stands on the ruins of the western side of the camp. Many coins have been found here, and great masses of Roman masonry lie beneath the soil. The summer camps lie upon the adjacent hills. The first turning on the left, after passing the bridge, leads in a few minutes to Mancetter Manor House, originally built in 1135, and presenting a quaint Edwardian appearance at the present day. In 1432 the Glovers occupied it, one of whom suffered martyrdom in the Marian persecution.
ATHERSTONE,
a singularly uninteresting looking town, whose staple manufacture is felt hats, has a long, straggling street, a portion of the Watling Street, and during sewage operations about fifty years ago the remains of the original Roman road came to light, at some depth below the present surface; some of the paving-stones, grooved by chariot wheels, were in places cemented together. Henry of Richmond slept at the Three Tuns Inn, now demolished, the night before Bosworth Battle, and heard Mass in the church, which is not of great archæological interest.
| Miles. | ||
| Atherstone to Fazeley | 7 | |
| Fazeley to Tamworth | 1 | ½ |
| Tamworth to Lichfield | 7 | |
| Lichfield to Muckley Corner | 2 | ¾ |
| Muckley Corner to Four Crosses Inn | 8 | ¾ |
| Four Crosses Inn to Gailey Station | 2 | ¾ |
| Gailey Station to Shifnal | 11 | ¾ |
| Shifnal to Oakengates | 4 | ¾ |
| Oakengates to Shrewsbury | 12 | ¾ |
Atherstone to Lichfield.—Undulating road with fine surface.
Lichfield to Shifnal.—Almost level; surface fairly good, but the direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near Oakengates. The Shifnal Loop is, therefore, recommended. (See Route Map 3.)
Tamworth.—An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church.
Lichfield.—Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel Johnson.
Shifnal.—Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman, Early English, and Decorated.
Wroxeter.—The Roman Uriconium; Roman remains.
At Atherstone the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of the almost demolished Merevale Abbey, the chapel of which is still used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting. To the south of the town lies Drayton Manor, the seat of the great Sir Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to
TAMWORTH,
one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the castle has been of more or less importance—in fact, it is one of the most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find:
'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye,
Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,
Of Tamworth Tower and Town.'
The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the impression of massive solidity.
Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round.
LICHFIELD
The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right, with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the Cathedral, which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of the present building, the west choir, dates from c. 1200; the south and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.
The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays.
LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of an exquisite richness.
Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles, richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liège. It dates from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals, Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans.
In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light.
In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock' should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The Roman station of Eteocetum lies about one mile to the south-east at Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield.
Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water—Cannock Chase reservoir—lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the Roman station of Pennocrucium, near a roadside inn, and immediately afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct. Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and Oakengates.
Shifnal is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the Church. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture, among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept. The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel. Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars.
From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of Uxaconium, is mainly downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an inn is reached leading to
WROXETER
This is the ancient Uriconium, destroyed by fire in the fifth century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To the archæologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest encountered since leaving Verulamium, a good road will be found leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised on account of the traffic.
(For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77.)
FIRST PORTION: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER—SECOND PORTION: CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL—THIRD PORTION: RHYL, DENBIGH, RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY
| Miles. | ||
| Shrewsbury to Wem Church | 10 | ¾ |
| Wem Church to Whitchurch | 8 | ¾ |
| Whitchurch to Broxton | 10 | |
| Broxton to Chester | 10 | |
On leaving Shrewsbury, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous.
Road to Chester usually in good condition; surface splendid; no steep gradients.
Between Shrewsbury and Wem, undulating.
From Whitchurch, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at Chester.
Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.—About 3 miles from Shrewsbury; Battlefield Church, Perpendicular.
Wem.—Obelisk to Rowland Hill.
Whitchurch.—Busy country town; church dating from 1711.
Rowton Moor.—Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645.
Chester.—One of the most picturesque walled towns in England; Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses.
Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural. Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000 men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000 men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to the west.
Whitchurch is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen.
The Church.—The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in 1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here.
Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee.
Cholmondeley Castle, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times. The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style, while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately, placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton Station stands Carden Hall, one of the most beautiful examples of timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county. About a mile farther on Aldersey Hall stands to the left, about ten furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by the family of that name since the Norman Conquest.
In Handley Church a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and Calveley Hall, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse, has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms.
Rowton Moor is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in 1645. The road passes through the battlefield.
CHESTER
From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls, the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track of the Roman legions, and here at Chester—the ancient Deva—is found the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military castra of the conquerors of the world.
One of the first objects of interest is the Cathedral, situated about two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth. Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches, where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit. The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church, and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern. A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium, where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics, presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in 1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the vaulting is a striking feature.
Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance. Continuing up Northgate Street, the Town Walls are reached, and can be climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few paces to the right lead to the Phœnix Tower (entrance 1d.), from the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called 'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains, including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right, enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings, consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of interest.
Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the Church of St. John the Baptist is soon reached, one of the most interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from c. 1240, and a lady from c. 1400.
Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge Street, St. Peter's Church is reached. It was built on the site of the Roman Prætorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan, and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular, and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed Rows of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt, now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber.
This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive; an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and rich colour schemes.
| Miles. | ||
| Chester to Broughton | 5 | |
| Broughton to Mold | 7 | |
| Mold to Caerwys | 9 | ½ |
| Caerwys to St. Asaph | 8 | |
| St. Asaph to Rhuddlan | 3 | ¼ |
| Rhuddlan to Rhyl | 2 | ¾ |
Chester to Mold.—Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid surface.
Broughton.—Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold.
Mold.—Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a descent near Trefnant.
Mold.—Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture; Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia Victory.'
Cilcain.—Church with magnificent oak roof.
Caerwys.—Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn.
St. Asaph.—Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and Wales.
Rhuddlan.—Edwardian castle, ruins.
Morfa Rhuddlan.—Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and Caradoc.
Rhyl.—Watering-place; splendid sands.
CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL.
Loop 1 (Second Portion).
Note.—Denbigh is omitted on the way from Mold to Rhyl.
On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached.
MOLD
The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed eighth-century work has been incorporated.
Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the 'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots, to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet, the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town.
Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin Mountain. The village of Cilcain lies to the left of the route, at a distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope towards Caerwys, the mountains on both sides become softened and rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps, the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet, reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off close to a stone circle. Caerwys is believed to have been a Roman station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards, or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.)
At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions, Bodfari (Vara) being the last of the stations to be passed. The Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at Segontium, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus, nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the Watling Street has been followed.
ST. ASAPH
This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from 1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to
RHUDDLAN CASTLE
The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167, and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession, and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more pathetic wail—the death-sob of a great nation—than that of 'Morfa Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of Welsh airs.
The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a convenient position.
RHYL
Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and the beau idéal of parents with families, who fear that their offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent 'brain-emptier'—and that means much to the jaded man. He may be exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient both by road and rail.
| Miles. | ||
| Rhyl to Denbigh | 15 | |
| Denbigh to Ruthin | 7 | ¾ |
| Ruthin to Corwen | 12 | ½ |
| Corwen to Llangollen | 10 | |
| Llangollen to Wrexham | 12 | ¼ |
| Wrexham to Ellesmere | 16 | ½ |
| Ellesmere to Shrewsbury | 12 | ½ |
Rhyl to Trefnant.—A good road.
Trefnant.—Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh.
Denbigh to Ruthin.—Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11, then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1 in 13.
Corwen to Llangollen.—Slightly hilly; first-class surface.
Llangollen to Wrexham.—Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham.
Wrexham to Ellesmere.—Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury.
Bodelwyddan Church.—Two miles from Rhuddlan, off the road; excellent example of modern architecture.
Cefn Caves.—Three miles from St. Asaph, or 2½ miles from Trefnant, off the road.
Denbigh.—The castle; ruins of the garrison church.
Llanrhaiadr.—Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window.
Ruthin.—Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular, with splendid roof.
Corwen.—Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.
Llangollen.—Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle; Plas Newydd, the Bridge.
Ruabon.—Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument.
Wrexham.—Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular architecture.
Ellesmere.—Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses; picturesque lakes.