The Pyrenees

INDEX

A
Accous or Bédous, plain of, 159-160
Agra, river, mentioned, 20;
valley of, 147
Aiguestoites, Port de, 181
Albigenses, crusade against, its meaning and results, 49
Alfonso el Batallador, 54
Alpargatas, 122
Alps, contrasted with Pyrenees, 25-26
Andorra, history and character of, 192-193
— forms with Catalan valleys a district of Pyrenees, 187-198
— how reached from Ariège, 187-193
— posada of, 232
Anicle, Col d’, 171-172
Anie, Pic d’, its position on first axis of Pyrenees, 6
— boundary of the Basques, 38, 154
Aphours, brook of, 150
Aragnouet, 181
Aragon, river, mentioned, 20
— valley of, easy connexion of, with valley of Gallego, 158;
described, 161
— kingdom, named after river, 20;
and Béarn, their position on the range, 37
Aran, Val d’, see “Val”
Arazas, valley of, 169-170;
Inn there, 233
Ariège, sources of, 191
— valley of, position of on axis of Pyrenees, 8;
forms old county of Foix, 15;
in connexion with that of the Tet, 204-209
Ariel, Pic d’, 205
Arles, on Tech, 213-214
Arras, Col d’, 215
Arreau, hotels at, 227
Arrouye, Pic d’, 182
Aspe, Val d’, 158
Aston, upper, adventure of author upon, 108-112
— river, advantages of district of, 187-188
Ax, way from, to valley of Tet, 206-208;
hotels and baths of, 230
B
Bagnères-de-Bigorre, hotels at, 226;
de Luchon, see “Luchon”
Baigorry, valley of, 145-146
Balatag, wood of, on Canigou, 212
Bambilette, port, 152
Bargebit, Pic de, on Canigou, 213
Barrosa, stream of, 174
Barroude, pass of, 181
Basque, place names found throughout Spain and Pyrenees, 38-39
— Valleys, a district of the Pyrenees, 145-154
Basques, their position on the range, 37;
Pic d’Anie, boundary, 38
— no Roman record of, 45-46
Bathing, dangerous when fatigued, 143
Batallador, surname of Alfonso, 54
Bayonne, road from, to Pamplona described, 96-99
Béarn and Aragon, their position on the range, 37
Béarn, Roman name of, 44;
with Navarre and Roussillon, last exceptions to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49
Bédous, Hotel de la Poste at, 160
Bédous, hotel of, 222
— or Accous, plan of, 159-160
Belhay, Port de, 152
Belver, head of Urgel road, 203
Benarnensium Civitas, modern Béarn, 44
Bicycling in Pyrenees, 104-105
Bielsa, Port de, 181
— second stage in way from Panticosa to Venasque, 170;
described, 171;
inn of, 233
Biescas, mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 19
Bigerriones, original name of inhabitants of Bigorre, 44
Bigorre, originally land of “Bigerriones,” 44;
Pic du Midi de, see “Pic”
Blankets, 122-123
Boella, Col de, 215
Bonaigo, Pass of, nature of, 28, 31, 197
Bota, see “Gourd”
Boucacers, Col de, 211
Boucharo, French name for Bujaruelo, 169
Boussens, amazing cooking at, 230
Bread, proper rations of, 125-126
Brèche de Roland, 173
Bujaruelo (Boucharo) in Sobrarbe, 169
Burguete, hotel at, 221
C
Cabanes, use of, as shelter, 123
— village and station of, starting-point for passes of Peyregrils and Fontargente, 188
Cabillere, Pic de, 188
Cacouette, gorge of, alluded to, 16, 152
Cadi, Sierra del, mentioned, 20;
aspect from St. Croz, 196;
aspect of, from Cerdagne, 200
Cady, brook of, 213
Cambret, brook of, 214
Camphor, sovereign against bugs, 223
Camping, rules for, 128-133
Canal Roya, example of difficulty of finding a col, 110-113
— valley of, and col, 158
— entrance to, 161-162
Canfranc, 161;
poor hotel of, 223
Canigou, hotel near summit of, 231;
district of, 210-216;
peaks of, ways up to, 211-215
Canillo, village of, 191
Carlitte, group of mountains, 204
Casteil, hamlet on way up Canigou, 212
Castellbo, first stage in way from Urgel to Esterri, 194;
delicious inn of, 229
Catalans, their position on the range, 36
Catalonia, origins of, 54
Cauterets, hotels of, 226
Cerberus, Cape, eastern limit of second axis of Pyrenees, 4
Cerdagne, political anomaly of, 57-58;
described, 199-203;
why annexed by Mazarin, 201
Chaitza, stream of, 151
Christians, reconquest of Spanish slope by, 50-54
Cinca, valley of, with Broto and Esera make up Sobrarbe, 167
Cinqueta, affluent of the Cinca, 167
Cirere, Col de, 213
Climate of Pyrenees, 33-35
Coidenes, bridge of, 188
Col, or pass, see under particular names
Comminges, modern name of district of Convenæ, 43-45
Compass, variation of, in Pyrenees, 60;
necessary in equipment, 127-128
Consevanni, modern Conserans, 44-45
Conserans, Roman “Consevanni,” 44-45
Convenæ, 43-44
Coumette, Pic de la, 188
Cruz, Col de la, 174
Cuberre, bridge of, 176
D
Dalmanya, torrent of, 213;
village of, 213
Dastan, Val, 185
Distance, best reckoned in mountains by time, 76-78
“Double Col,” most dangerous example of ambiguity in a pass, 137-140
Driving in Pyrenees, 105
E
Eaux Bonnes, chief hotel of, 225
— Chaudes, 164
— hotel of, 225
Elizondo, 147-148
— hotels of, 220
Elloronensium Civitas, modern Oloron, 44
Elne, 42
El Plan, posada of, 233
Embalire, pass of, 31;
easiest entry into Andorra, 191-193
Encamps, village of, 191;
inn of, 231
Equipment, description of necessary, 115-124
Erro, 148
— inn at, 221
Escaló, village of, 196
Escolier, Pic d’, 150
Escuain, Col de, 171
Espousouille, hamlet of, 208
Esterri, hotel of, 229
— mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 18;
described, 197;
way to, from Urge, 194-198
Europe, grouping of peoples unchanged in, during recorded history, 1-2
F
Fillols, on way up Canigou from Villefranche, 212
Foix, county of, identical with valley of Ariège, 15
Fontargente, tarn of, 191
— pass of, into Andorra, 190-191
Forata, Peña, 165
Formiguères, village of, on way from Ax to Tet valley, 206
French measurements, English equivalents, 74-77
— slope of Pyrenees, formation of, 10-12;
names and character of valleys on, 10-15;
multiplicity of roads on, 79-82
Frontier, political, its present connexion with watershed, 54-58
G
Gabas, 164
— excellent hotel of, 224
Gabediou, Pic de, 182
Galbe, stream of, 208
Gallego, valley of, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 7
— valley of, 166
— valley of, easy connexion of, with valley of Aragon, 158
Gari, valley of, 185
Garonne, curious source of, 186
Gas, Pic du Col de, 189
Gascon, name of, supposed to be Basque, 39
Gaulis, Col de, 170
Gavarnie, example of a high-valley village, 21;
town of, 226
— Port de, 31
— Cirque de, 181
Gerbats, Pic de, 182
Gistain, Col de, 175-176
Glacé, lake, 186
Glaciers, absence of, 33
Gnoles, torrent of, 206
Gourd, or bota, description of, 117-120
H
Hayra, forest of, 146
Heas, stream and village of, 181-182
Heights and distances, French, way of turning into English feet and miles, 74-77
Helena, original name of Elne, 42
Henry IV and Mazarin complete French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49
Hix, 202
Hospitalet, of Ariège, 191;
of Luchon, 184
Huesca, Sancho’s attempt on, 53;
road to, 99, 103
I
Illiberis, old name for Elne, 42
Inns, of the Pyrenees, 217-233;
Spanish and French, contrasted, 218-233
Iraty, Spanish valley, head-waters in France, 56
Isaba, 153
Ispeguy, pass of, between Baigorry and Baztan, 146
J
Jaca, mentioned as example of town in Spanish valley, 18;
one of three mountain bishoprics on Spanish slope, 46;
counted as French during Mahommedan occupation, 48;
early independence of, 53;
excellent hotel of, 223
“Jasses,” nature of these flats, 15-16
“Jeous,” local name, 26
K
Kilometre, estimate of, by time, 141-142
Knapsack, see “Pack”
L
Labourd, valley of, 145
Lakes, character of, in Pyrenees, 32;
of Maladetta, Encantados, etc., 32
Lakes of the Carlitte, 204
Lamoux, lake of, 205
Larrasoaña, 148
Larrau, 151
Laruns, 164;
hotel of, 225
La Tour Carol, 202;
inn of, 231
Laurhibar, village of, 149;
stream and village of, 149-150
Lecumberry, 149
Le Tech, hamlet of, 214
L’Homme, Pic de, western limit of second axis of Pyrenees, 4
Licq, 151
Llavorsi, village of, 196
Llivia, 200-201
Lourdes, hotels of, 225
Luchon, valley of, with valleys of Tarbes, makes separate district in Pyrenees, 179-186
— hot springs of, 183
— way to Venasque from, by Port d’Oo, 185-186
— valley and district of, 182-186;
road to, from Val d’Aran, 197-198;
wealth and hotels of, 228-229
Lys, valley of, 185
M
Magdalena, river of, 195
Maggi, provision of, 125;
method of using, 127
Maladetta, view of, from Port de Venasque, 185
Maps, for the range, 59-78
Marignac, forest of, 184
Mauléon, capital of the Soule, 149
Mazarin annexes Roussillon to France, 49
— annexes Cerdagne, 56-58
Mediterranean, civilization of, in connexion with Pyrenees, 42-43
Merens, example of a high-valley village, 17-18
Metres and kilometres, way of reducing to feet and miles, 74-76
Midi, Pic du, d’Ossau, 160;
de Bigorre, 180
Moines, Col des, 157-161
Mollo, see “Prats”
Monsech, Sierra of, distance of, from main range, 9, 20
Mont Louis, pass of, mentioned, 30;
hotel of, 231
Motoring in Pyrenees, by the “lower road,” 84-87;
by the “upper road,” 86-93;
across the range, 93-99;
from Pamplona to Jaca, 99;
to Saragossa, 99
Mountain, ranges of, often regarded too simply, 2-3
Mules, not always obtainable in inns, 219
N
Names, fantastic, of Pyrenees mountains, 24
Napoleon III, makes Somport road from Urdos, 161
Navarre with Béarn and Roussillon, the last exceptions to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49
Navas de Tolosa, battle of, 54
Nive, French river, rises in Spain, 56
Noguera Pallaresa, 196
Noguille, lake of, 204
Novempopulania, Roman district north of Pyrenees, 41-45
O
Olette, town of, 208
Oloron, Roman name of, 44;
main road from, to Saragossa, described, 93-96;
hotels at, 222
Oo, Port d’, 222
Ordino, town of, 190
Orgeix, 205
Oriège, valley of, 205
Orleu, 205
Oroel, Peña d’, 161
Ossau, Val d’, 164;
Pic du Midi de, see “Pic”
Otxogorrigagne, Mount, 152
Ourdayte, or “Urdayte,” Port d’, 31, 152
Ourdissettou, Pic d’, 181
P
Pack, type of, in equipment, 121-122
Pallars, name of Esterri valley, 196
Pamplona, Roman bishopric on Spanish slope, 46;
road to, from Bayonne described, 96-99;
hotels of, 221
Pannikin, description of, 115-116
Panticosa, way to Venasque from, through Sobrarbe, 167-178;
numerous hotels of, 224
Passes over Pyrenees, nature of, 27-32
Path, importance of faint indications, so called, in Pyrenees, 113-115
Pau, Gave de, valley of, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6
Pelayo, heads the Reconquista, 51
Peña, Sierra de la, mentioned, 19
Perpignan, hotel and restaurant of, 231
Peyregrils, pass of, into Andorra, 188-190
Pic du Midi d’Ossau, 160;
approach from Gabas, 164
— de Bigorre, 180
Pinède, cliffs of, 172
Pique, river of, in Luchon valley, 184
Pla de Guillem, pass of, in Canigou, 214
Place names, Basque, in Spain and Pyrenees, 38-39
Plan, El, village of, 177-178
“Plans,” larger form of Jasses, 15-16
Port Vendres, 42
Portaillet, Col of, on shoulder of Canigou, 214
Porte Blanche, pass of, into Andorra, 215
Porté, 204;
inn of, 231
Porteille, notch between county of Foix and Roussillon, 208
“Ports,” or passes, over Pyrenees, nature of, 26-30
Posets, Pic de, 174
Pourtalet, pass of, mentioned, 30;
modern road over, 163-164
Prades, town of, way up Canigou from, 212
Prats de Mollo, 214
Puigcerdá, 202
Puigdarbet, peak of, on Canigou, 213
Puillouse, marsh of, 205
Puymorens, Col de, limit of the Catalans, 37
— pass of, 204
Py, on Canigou, 214
Pyrenees, physical nature of, 1-35;
double axis of, 3-8;
length of chain, 4;
original formation of, 8;
contrast of northern and southern slope of, 9;
climate of, 33-35;
political character of, 36, etc.;
form the bastion against Islam, 47
— Treaty of, 49
Q
Quazémi peak of, on Canigou, 212
R
Railways, start far from main range on Spanish side, 21
Rain, distribution of, in Pyrenees, 33-35
Ranges, mountain, see “Mountain”;
secondary, perpendicular to main range on northern, parallel to it on southern slope, 9, 19
Reconquista, 50-54
Rialb, stream of, 189
Rivers, shape of their course on Spanish slope, 20
Roman advance on Spanish slope, 45-47
Romans, make watershed of Pyrenees a boundary, 40-41;
their advance north of Pyrenees, 41-45
Roncesvalles, pass of, mentioned, 30;
high road through, 97;
road to, from Pamplona, 148
Roque Couloum, mountain, 211
Roscino, gives name to Roussillon, 42
Rou, tarn of, 204
Roussillon, formed round valley of Tet, 15;
with Navarre and Béarn, last exception to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49
S
Sabouredo, Pic de, eastern limits of first axis of Pyrenees, 4
Sahun, Col de, 178
Saillagousse, 202;
a place to avoid, 231
St. Bertrand de Comminges, origin of, 45
St. Croz, village of, 194
St. Duillem, huts of, 214
Ste. Engrace, 151-153
— Port de, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6;
passage of, 152-153
— inn at, 222
St. Etienne, in Baigorry, 146-147
St. Girons, hotel of, 230
St. Jean le Vieux, site of Roman town, 148
St. Jean Pied de Port, 148;
road from, to Soule, 148-151;
hotels at, 221
St. Jerome, his story of Convenæ, 45
St. John, Port of, 195-196
St. Lizier, originally Glycerius, 44
Salau, pass of, distance of, from plains, 9, 20, 197
— Port of, mentioned, 30
Saldeu, pass and hamlet of, 191
Salinas de Sin, 177
Sallent, way to, from, Urdos, 161-163
Sallent, character of inn of, 224
— Port Vieux de, 163
Salpichon, value of, 125
Sancho, killed before Huesca, 53
Sandales, see “Alpargatas”
Sarabillo, 177
Saragossa, the main road over Pyrenees to, 99, 103
Sauvegarde, Pic de, 185
Schrader, his map of central Pyrenees, 61, 73-74
Secondary ranges, perpendicular to main range on northern side, parallel to it on the southern, 10, 19
Sentina, torrent of, 177
Serrat, village of, 190
Snow, perennial, absence of in Pyrenees, 25
Sobrarbe, name of Eastern Aragon, 20, 23;
district in Pyrenees, 167-178
Socks, folly of wearing, 116
Somport, pass so called, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6;
nature of, 28, 30;
main road over, from Oloron to Saragossa, described, 92-95
Soulauet, tarn of, 189
Soule, district in Basque valleys, 148-154
— road from St. Jean de Port to, 148-151
Souscousse, woods of, 154
Sousquéou, valley of, 164-165
Spanish government, contrast of, with French, in Cerdagne, 201
Spanish slope of Pyrenees, formation of, 10;
type of valleys in, 18-24;
Roman conquest of, 45-47;
reconquest of, by Christians, 50-54;
absence of roads on, 84;
unmapped, 66;
partially given in French maps, 67
Spates, rare in Pyrenean streams, 32
Spirits of wine, necessity of, 126-127
Streams, Pyrenean, spates rare in, 32
T
Tarbelli, Roman name for people of Dax, 44
Tarbes, originally Turba, 44;
valleys of, and Luchon, district in Pyrenees, 179-186;
hotel at, 182
Tardets, central town of the Soule, 150-151;
admirable hotel at, 221-222
Taurinya, on way up Canigou from Prades, 212
Tech, valley of, 211
Tent, folly of carrying one, 124
Tet, valley of, forms core of Roussillon, 15
— valley of, with that of Ariège, makes a district in Pyrenees, 204-209
Thirteen Winds, peak of, on Canigou, 214
Tigra, forest of, 153
Time, distance in mountains best reckoned by, 77-78
Torla, with Bielsa and Venasque, chief centres of Sobrarbe, 167;
first stage in way from Panticosa to Venasque, 169;
curious inn at, 233
Toro, Trou de, 186
Torte, tarn of, 204
Towns, nature of Pyrenean, 17
Trainzaygues, 180
Treaty of Pyrenees, 49
Troumouse, Cirque, 181-182
Turba, old name of Tarbes, 44
Turmo, Cabane of, 176
U
Urdayte, or “Ourdayte,” port of, see “Ourdayte”
Urdos, example of a high-valley village, 17;
travel through, 160
Urgel (Seo de), Roman bishopric on Spanish slope, 46;
bishopric of, counted as French during Mahommedan occupation, 48;
appearance of, 193-194;
way from, to Esterri and Val d’Aran, 194-198;
hotel at, 232
Urtioga, Mount, western limit of Pyrenees, 4;
in Basque valleys, 145
V
Val d’Aran, political anomaly of, 56-57;
way to, from Urgel through Esterri, 194-198
Val Carlos, 148;
accommodation at, 221
Vallcivera, Port de, 215
Valleys, nature of, on French slope, 15-18;
eight, on western French slope, 12-15;
two (Ariège and Tet) on eastern French slope, 14-15;
on Spanish slope, nature of, 18-24
— the Four, district of Pyrenees, 155-166;
strategical importance of, 155-156
Valley, “wrong,” see “Wrong valley”
Venasque, mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 18;
way to, from Panticosa, through Sobrarbe, 168-178;
alternative southern way to, from Bielsa, 177-178;
way to, from Luchon by Port d’Oo, 185-186;
posada of, 232
— Port de, mentioned, 31, 184-185
Vernet, on way up Canigou, 212
Viella, in Val d’Aran, 197;
road from, to Luchon, 198;
hotels of, 229
Vielle, hotel at, 227
Villefranche, town of, rail-head in Tet valley, 209
Vultures, Peak of the, 153
W
Watershed, forms political boundary during periods of high civilization, 40-41
Weather, peculiar difficulty of main ridge in doubtful, 31
Wine, Spanish, taste of, 219
Wood, rarely found near lake in Pyrenees, 32;
effect of, on streams, 33
“Wrong valley,” types of danger of getting into, 133-140

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