The workwoman's guide

SPENCERS.

PLATE 20.

Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with low frocks, by children, to walk out in.

PLAIN SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.

From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as to school girls, or young servants.

In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in, a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which, when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar; for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.

DRESS SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.

This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric, or jaconet muslin.

In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends, through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole, at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders, and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar, which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves are made and put in.

TIPPET AND SLEEVES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.

These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin, gingham, or print, to suit the frock.

To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when folded in two. D is the doubled part.

Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the flap or shoulder-piece.

For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four nails long.

Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.

For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper, letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and slope gradually from A to the bottom.

In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front, set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle. The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar, according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred. Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.

These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.

NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.

Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress, and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their having what will wash next the skin.

Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with borders, at from about 6d. to 2s., but the cheap ones are not worth buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer. The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too costly for general wear.

The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up, which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go round the waist and tie in front.

For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing. In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut off, and a tape sewed on behind.

Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as they wear longer.

POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.

These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton, or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.

Ladies’ pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square; they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half or three-quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round.

Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies, say fourteen or fifteen nails.

Gentlemen’s silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about 5s. 6d. each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed. Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a penny and even a halfpenny each.

BRIDAL FAVOURS.

The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them.

Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their coats.

SHOES AND SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20.

No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore easily made at home, or those worn by children.

Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet, wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials, together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for children’s shoes.

Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size required. Fig. 42.

Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the doubled part.

MEN’S SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 42.

These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal.

In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the slipper.

It is, however, better in general that men’s slippers should be made by a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women.

LADIES’ SLIPPERS.

There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies’ slippers, or toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved:—

Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted, cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered.

Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect very much.

When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding, and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round, and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel, or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is sewed round the edge.

QUILTED SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 43.

Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or diamonds.

Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together, with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked in button-hole or chain-stitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon; purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well.

A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties in the front.

LADIES’ SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50.

This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut out with more economy.

Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled.

Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H.

This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, S S, Fig. 44, are bound as well as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, E F, of Fig. 46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong silk.

TRAVELLING OR
OVER-SHOES.

These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily made.

Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong millboard, which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure it effectually.

LADY OR GENTLEMAN’S
HALF SLIPPER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 45.

There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in the Plate.

CARRIAGE SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 49.

These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin, or worked in rug stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes, without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery, and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person’s foot.

BABY’S FIRST SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54.

These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth, or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts, each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon, which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness. The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54), after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig. 52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not being sewed up at all.

BABY’S SECOND SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 47.

This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:—let your paper for the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep.

Lay B A, which is the folded part, on a double piece of the material. Cut from F to G, slope from G to E, curve from E to A, round from C to B, cut from B to A. This shoe should be bound with ribbon; it looks pretty made of drab or grey, and bound with blue or rose colour. A little bow is put on in front, and strings are sewed to the ends of the straps, or passed through oylet-holes made in them, to tie round the ankle, and thus keep the shoe in its place.

BABY’S TICKING SHOE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 50.

This is also in one piece, and makes a pretty variety, it is cut according to the scale given before, and care must be taken in the cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern, so that the stripes lie properly, i. e. straight from the middle or front of the shoe, to the toe. The ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the intervals between the dark stripes, either in herring-bone, or some other fancy stitch, in coloured netting silk, either in one colour, or in two well chosen contrasts, as blue and brown, crimson and dark green. It is then lined all through, bound with ribbon to suit the work, and sewed up behind. The sole is of thick but flexible leather, lined and bound. Oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the front, through which a ribbon is laced, to tie it up, and a bow put on at the top of the slit, completes it.

ON COVERING SHOES.

It is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk or satin shoes, but it requires great exactness, both in the fitting and sewing the new cover on; black silk or satin is generally found to answer the best, as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less likely to be observed. The quantity required for covering a full sized pair of lady’s shoes is six nails, cut the straight way.

Lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe, and cut an exact pattern, divided of course in two parts, the front and the back. Place the pattern upon your satin or silk, so that the material lies the straight way, and so as to economize the satin.

The shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth; the binding should, if possible, be picked off, and every little crack or thin place neatly darned.

When you put the satin on the shoe, begin with the front, and be careful that it lies perfectly straight and even, pin it with small pins very near together, all round the front, next to the sole, keeping your hand in the shoe, so as to fill it out, almost as when the foot is in it; whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge, with a tacking thread, and pretty close stitches; then with a stout needle and strong but not coarse black silk, sew the satin to the shoe, as close to the sole as possible, with small neat stitches, taking very great care not to draw or confine it in any part, for fear of hurting the foot, and trying it on from time to time, to make sure. The back is done in a similar manner, and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides, where the front and back join, and double stitched. The binding is next put on, this must also be neatly back-stitched, and is broad enough to conceal the tacking, or sewing-over threads; you must observe not to hold it in too much, or all your work is wasted; for if the binding is tight, the shoes can never be worn. Small bows and strings complete the whole.

Shoes that have been wetted by sea water, should be washed with soap and water, which prevents their spoiling.

For cleaning white satin shoes, see Receipt, No. 41.

Patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside, to clean them, and prevent their cracking.

The soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise, as when cut on the cross, they will crack.

GLOVES.

The chief kinds are kid, doe-skin, Berlin, Woodstock, and Limerick. The principal manufactures for the former kinds, are at Worcester, Dundee, and Jersey; the latter take their names from the places where they are made. French gloves are by some preferred to the English make, as they are considered to be more elastic. The Berlin gloves look like Woodstock, and wash and wear beautifully; a little pearl ash in the water makes them look as well as new. Others are made of cotton, silk, and worsted, and woven, net, or knit; for the latter, see “Knit Gloves.”

Cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table, and are very good for the purpose, as they are easily washed.

It is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves; the best plan to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces, and cut out by it. Gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk, prepared on purpose, which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk; it is between floss and round silk. The needles are small, very sharp, and three-sided towards the point.

For cleaning gloves, see Receipt, No. 40, 45.

ON DOWN AND FUR.

As it may be a matter of economy to some persons, especially to those who live in the country, to understand something of the making up, cleaning, and keeping of down and fur, such hints as are essential to those not regularly employed in the business, are given in the following pages.

DOWN.

The down of the swan, from its high price, is rarely used; as it is not plucked from the skin, there is little to be said about it, excepting that, after being well cleaned, the skin is cut into strips or squares of the size required, and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed or ornamented.

Christmas is the prime season for goose down, and a great difference is made in the waste, if it is gathered out of season, when there will probably be a mass of pen feathers, or new quills, growing under the breast, which must all be picked out, before the down can be got at, which of course adds much to the trouble and expense. That down which lies under the wings has no quill, therefore it cannot be sewed at all, but is kept for stuffing cushions, coverlets, &c. Down should be kept in paper bags or boxes, in a very dry place; damp spoils it.

A little while before it is used, it should be laid in paper bags before the fire, to lighten or separate it.

For sewing on down, to be used as trimmings, &c., the following instructions should be attended to.

Choose a small empty room, with as few drafts of air as possible in it; wear a black silk pinafore or apron, and have a silk cover, or old apron on the table, to prevent the down adhering to it, or to the dress.

Begin by sorting your down into a box, keeping the refuse, or that without quills, in another box or bag by itself; in sorting it, draw a handful out of the bag, holding it fast in the palm of the hand, pulling it out piece by piece, by which means there is little waste; the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool. When all those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out, lay them in pairs upon the table.

Cut your strip of calico to the proper size, whether for a boa or muff, it must be the straight way. Pin the calico, beyond the part where you are going to work, to your waist or dress, and have some strong thread in your needle; double your calico in regular rows or creases, rather less than one quarter of a nail apart; then begin to sew the down upon the first crease or fold, pass your needle through the ends of two of the small quilled pieces, which you must hold in your hand, push them down upon the calico, and sew three stitches strongly upon them, taking care not to pull the thread too tight, or it will not wash well; then take another stitch, a little further on the line, before beginning with the next piece of down. When the row is finished, go on to the next line marked on the calico, keeping that already done, next to you, so as to lie inside, or under your hand.

Observe, that for a boa, the rows of down go width-wise of the calico, while for a muff, the rows must be in a downward direction or round it; in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew to the best advantage when made up, and so as to conceal the rows of sewing.

Upon an average, six ounces of down will make a boa, with nearly three ounces waste. The best goose down is about 2s. an ounce; it chiefly comes from Lincolnshire.

Turkey down is also at its prime at Christmas, and is sometimes used for cuffs, neck-ruffs, or operas, and other small articles.

IMITATION ERMINE.

Sew tails of false black sable into white Spanish rabbit skin, cut a little V and let the tail in, covering it over with the flap, and sewing the tail firmly in.

The following is a list of the furs in general use:—

• Sable, which is black and brown.
• Ermine, black and white.
• Chincilla, greyish blue.
• Bear, black, brown, and Isabella.
• Otter.
• Fox, black, brown, and white or Arctic.
• Wolf, yellow or sandy.
• Wolverine.
• Lynx, black.
• Squirrel, brown, or silver, which is also called Minever.
• Racoon.
• Fitch, brown.
• Weazel.
• Rat, Norwegian or Russian.
• Rabbit.
• Martin.
• Cat.

TO MAKE A MUFF.

A full sized muff is about nine nails wide, and fourteen nails long, before it is sewed up. To make a foundation for a muff, lay a piece of Jersey on the table, and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair, next a sheet of wadding, roll it round, and sew it up the proper size, put it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end, then make the lining, slip it in neatly and fasten it. One yard and a quarter of silk will line a full sized muff.

TO MAKE A BOA.

After sewing the down on the calico, as before directed, or the skins of fur together, turn it to the wrong side, and sew the seam up neatly and strongly, turning it out to the right side as you go on, then fill it with Jersey to a proper thickness.

The usual length of a boa, is from two yards and three-quarters to three yards.

TO MAKE A TIPPET.

A tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur.

TO MAKE AN OPERA,
OR RUFF.

This is lined with flannel and wadding, within the silk lining.

Fur is always cut at the back, with a knife and rule.

TO CLEAN FUR.

Unpick the seam, but not the skins. Place it on a large deal table, and tack it slightly down with small nails. Pound white French chalk, add some bran to it, and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean flannel very hard backwards and forwards, take it out with a brush, and when done, shake it well. When a grub or moth is in the fur, put it in a stove hot enough to bear the hand.

TO CLEAN DOWN.

Open the seam, and wash with white soap and warm water; shake it before a gentle fire till dry.

TO PRESERVE FUR

With respect to keeping furs, it is well to bear in mind the old adage that

“A little neglect may breed a great mischief:”

great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp; the following are the best methods of doing so:—

On laying furs by for the summer, they should be put into brown paper bags, with clean hops scattered over them, and once or twice during the season, they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken, or they may be put away in tin boxes, or sewed up in strong linen; pepper, Russia leather, or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives against moths, when put in the box or bag with the fur.

When fur has been wetted, it should not be wiped, but only shaken, and laid in the sun or a warm room till dry.

The best method of cleaning or preserving fur, is by washing the skin with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as will dissolve it, and gently shaking it, dry near but not close to a fire. After this process has been gone through, the moth will not touch it, but it requires care, as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison.