The workwoman's guide

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Knitting is the art of uniting worsted, or any other material together, without the aid of a loom. This work is applied to stockings, socks, boots, coverlids, and various other articles of wear or ornament, and is generally done with worsted, cotton or silk, but as the latter material properly belongs to fancy work, it will not be often mentioned.

KNITTING PINS OR NEEDLES,

As they are variously called, are made of iron or brass, for common use, and steel for best. They can be procured of every size and thickness, and are sold in sets, each set containing four pins. These sets cost from ⅛d. to 2d. each, according to the metal and size.

Ivory, bone, whalebone, steel, rosewood, ebony, and cane pins, of a larger size and thickness, are employed for knitting coverlids, boots, carpets, and other thickly knit articles. These are sometimes twenty inches, or two feet long, and have a knob at one end to prevent the stitches from slipping off. Of these pins two or three form the set. For schools, common pins may be procured from a carpenter or turner, for 2d. a set, whereas the former are charged at from 1s. 6d. to 8s. or 9s. the set.

MATERIALS FOR KNITTING.

Worsted, lambs’ wool, or fleecy wool, is used for stockings, and other wearing articles.

Cotton is employed for curtains, window blinds, bags, fringe, &c.

These materials are always sold by the weight; one pound contains sixteen ounces.

The expense of wools and worsteds varies so materially, that an average price can hardly be stated. It has been sold as low as at 2s. per pound, and as high as 6s. 6d. Crimsons are the most expensive colours, greens and oranges the next, blue is more moderate, and black, grey, purple, and pepper and salt are the least expensive, always excepting white, which is the lowest of any.

Grey and white common worsted contain a good deal of turpentine, and are often preferred by the poor on that account.

Black should be well soaked in strong vinegar, to set the colour, and prevent its coming off on the hands while being knitted.

Worsteds are more suitable for men’s and women’s stockings.

Wools for children’s stockings, or for muffatees, ruffs, and other lighter articles of wear, which should be soft and warm.

All worsteds and wools should be carefully wrapped up in the coarsest brown paper, which also contains turpentine, and keeps out the air. They should be often looked to, as the moths are apt to get at them and spoil them.

Worsteds in use should be neatly wound in small balls, about the size of an orange.

ON KNITTING STITCHES.

In knitting, keep the ball in the pocket, or in a bag hung to the arm, or a basket, and do not allow it to roll on the table or floor, to get dusted.

There are a great variety of knit stitches, all of which, are founded on the following kinds, beginning with casting or setting on stitches, all of which will be explained in due order.

CASTING ON STITCHES.

This must be first learned, and signifies putting the stitches on the pins, in order to begin working.

There are two or three modes of doing this.

Hold the worsted at about a quarter of a yard from the end, together with one of the pins in the right hand, between the finger and thumb.

Next, hold the worsted at some distance from the end, and lay it across the palm of the left hand, holding it down with the fingers while you make a loop, by bringing the worsted before the thumb, and carrying it outside and back again, between the thumb and first finger into the palm, taking care to cross it over the other worsted; with the right hand put the pin under the loop, and take it off from the thumb upon it, drawing the end of the worsted tight at the same time. Continue making loops with the left thumb, and taking them off on the right hand pin, until the proper number of stitches be set on.

Another and a better mode, is that of knitting on the stitches. For this purpose, after making the first loop with the left hand thumb, as above, and slipping it off the thumb upon the right hand pin, continue as follows:—

Take another pin in the right hand, and put it under the loop on the pin, making this right hand pin lie across under the left. Next, put the worsted between the two pins, and press the end of the right hand pin upon the worsted, till it is brought through the first stitch, and forms a loop upon the pin. Take this loop off upon the left hand pin, by putting the end of it under the loop, which gives it a kind of twist; continue thus increasing the stitches on the left hand pin until the proper number is formed.

THE COMMON KNITTING STITCH.

After setting on the number of stitches in the manner before mentioned, begin to knit them off from one pin to the other, as follows:—

Hold the pin with the stitches on, in the left hand; with the right hand, put the other pin under the first loop, making the pin lie across behind the left hand pin, while with the first finger, the worsted is drawn in front between the pins. Then with the end of the right pin, press this worsted till it is brought through the stitch in the form of a loop upon the right hand pin. Keep it on the right pin, taking the loop quite off from the left pin. Continue knitting the stitches off the left upon the right hand pin, till the row is completed, when change pins, putting the one with stitches in the left hand, and the disengaged pin in the other.

DUTCH COMMON KNITTING.

This is another mode of knitting the common stitch, and is more simple, and more quickly done than the usual way.

Hold the pin-ful of stitches in the left hand, as also the worsted, which should be wound once or twice round the little finger, to keep it firm, and allowed to pass over the first finger to the pins. The right hand pin is then simply passed through the stitch, and catching the worsted outside, draws it through, and forms the loop on the right pin, and so on.

THE TURN OR SEAM STITCH.

This is also called back-stitching, or pearling, but when alluded to hereafter, it will invariably be called turn-stitch. It is simply bringing the worsted between the needles, and taking up the loop, by putting the needle into the stitch from behind, and knitting it off by putting the worsted round the pin, and pressing the loop through the stitch.

WIDENING.

This is increasing the number of loops, and is generally done in the middle of a pin-ful of stitches.

There are various modes of widening. One is, that of simply passing the worsted in front, before knitting the loop, and is termed making a stitch. Another, is effected by taking up the cross loop, below the next stitch belonging to the row before, and afterwards continuing the plain knitting.

In some cases where the widening occurs at the end, in order to form a gradual slope, knit the last stitch without taking the loop off the pin. Again put the right hand pin into the loop, but in order to give a twist to the worsted, put it in under the side furthest from you, and knit it off.

NARROWING.

This is decreasing the number of stitches, by simply knitting two together.

SLIPPING A STITCH.

This is merely taking the stitch or loop off one pin upon the other without knitting it.

FINISHING OFF.

In finishing off a piece of knitting, knit two stitches from off the left hand pin, upon the right, and then with the left pin, take up the first stitch and put it over the second, slipping it off the pin at the same time, so as only to leave the second stitch upon it. Knit a third stitch, and slip the second loop over it also off the pin, and so on till the last stitch or loop remains on the left hand pin, and none on the right; when, after breaking off the worsted, pass the end through the loop and draw it up, and the whole is completed.

Observe, in finishing off, not to pull the worsted too tight, as the end will curl up, and look puckered.

WELTING.

This is usually knit at the tops of stockings, socks, muffatees, &c. and tends to confine the article to the leg or arm of the wearer, from its tendency to contract.

Knit three or more plain stitches, and the same number of turn stitches alternately for several rows, observing always to knit one row or bout exactly to correspond with the other, so that the welts or ribs are regular.

BINDING.

In binding, or joining two stitches together, as for instance, in the heel of the stocking, lay the two pins together in one hand, and with a third pin knit a stitch, first off one pin and then off another, after which, put the first knit stitch over the second, slipping it off the pin as in fastening off, already described. Continue knitting a fresh stitch to it, first from one pin and slipping the loop over it, and then from the other. Pass the worsted through the last loop and the whole is completed.

There are many terms used in knitting which ought to be familiar to all knitters, as they are constantly introduced into knitting receipts.

The following will be described, but there are probably many more peculiar to different counties.

• A Row is one line or length of knitting.
• A Rib is two rows, or a row forwards and backwards, and is
• sometimes called a turn.
• A Bout is one round of knitting, as in stockings.
• A Welt is that part ribbed at the top of the leg of the stocking.
• A Seam is that open line in a stocking, formed by a continuation
• of turn stitches.

FANCY STITCHES.

The following are the various fancy stitches commonly employed by knitters for useful articles:—

• No.  1. Double knitting.
•   2. Another ditto.
•   3. Another ditto.
•   4. Open hem.
•   5. Honey-comb stitch.
•   6. French stitch.
•   7. Fantail stitch.
•   8. Imitation net-work stitch.
•   9. Open cross-stitch.
•    10. Insertion-work, or Berlin wire.
•    11. Plain open stitch.
•    12. The crow’s-foot stitch.
•    13. The chain stitch.
•    14. The embossed hexicon stitch.
•    15. The common plat.
•    16. The elastic rib.
•    17. The rough-cast, or huckaback stitch.
•    18. The embossed diamond stitch.
•    19. The ornamental ladder.
•    20. Imitation double knitting.
•    21. The knit herring-bone stitch.
•    22. The purse stitch.
•    23. The lace wave stitch.
•    24. The herring-bone bag stitch.
•    25. An improved open stitch.
•    26. The shawl stitch.
•    27. The cross-stitch pattern.
•    28. The curb stitch.
•    29. The two coloured rib-stitch.
•    30. A beautiful diamond stitch.
•    31. The raised French stitch.
•    32. The two coloured chain stitch.
•    33. The rug stitch.
•    34. The nondescript.
•    35. A new stitch
•    36. The new muffatee stitch.

KNIT FRINGES.

• No.  1. Fringe.
• 2. Fringe.
• 3. Shawl fringe.
• 4. A beautiful fringe, and border.
• 5. A very pretty fringe.
• 6. Fringe for curtains.

No. 1.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

This is very suitable for blankets, coverlets, comforters, socks, sleeves, ruffs, shawls, &c. There are three kinds of double knitting; the first is as follows:—

• Put on an even number of stitches,
• Knit a few plain rows,
• Then begin a fresh row as follows:—
• Knit a stitch,
• Pass the worsted between the needles in front;
• Take off a stitch, putting the needle inside the loop;
• Pass the worsted back again,
• Knit another stitch, as before, and so on.

No. 2.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

Another mode is as follows:—

• Put on an even number of stitches,
• Knit the first stitch plain, putting the worsted twice over the pin,
• Pass the worsted between the needles before,
• Slip a stitch,
• Pass the worsted behind again.
• Again knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin, and so on.

In the next row, knit those stitches that were slipped, and slip those which were before knit.

It is advisable to knit the first three or four stitches plain in every row, as it confines it down neatly at the sides.

No. 3.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

This is worked on the wrong side, and is particularly simple, and far quicker work than the former method, but, as when completed, it requires turning inside out, it must be knit with plain knitting at the ends or sides, which to some, is an objection.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Proceed at once, without knitting a plain row,
• Put the worsted in front of the pins before beginning to knit,
• observing always to keep it so.
• Turn the first stitch,
• Take off the second stitch, and so on throughout.

No. 4.

OPEN HEM.

Use very fine pins and sewing cotton,

• Set on any number of stitches, divisable by four,
• Slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row,
• Knit the second stitch,
• Put the cotton over the pin, to make a stitch;
• Knit two loops together,
• Continue by knitting the next stitch,
• Making a stitch, &c. &c., as before.

No. 5.

HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This is very applicable for shawls, purses, muffatees, and other fancy articles.

• Knit the first stitch,
• Put the cotton over the pin, to make a loop,
• Knit two stitches together,
• Continue making a loop, and knitting two stitches together,
• till the row is completed.
• Knit the second row plain, and so on, every other row
• honeycomb-stitch.

No. 6.

FRENCH STITCH.

Set on the stitches in fours, leaving two over.

• Turn the first stitch,
• Turn the thread back,
• Knit two stitches together,
• Bring the thread in front,
• Knit a stitch, thus forming a new loop,
• Bring the thread again in front,
• Turn a stitch, one rib or pattern is then complete.

Begin the next in a similar manner, by turning the thread back, and knitting two together at the end of the row, turn the thread, and knit the last stitch.

No. 7.

FAN-TAIL STITCH.

This is very suitable for gloves, mits, purses, &c.

• Set on fourteen loops,
• Make a loop, by putting the cotton over the pin,
• Knit a loop,
• Make a loop, and so on,
• Knit each of the two last plain,

Then narrow at the second and third stitches, both at the beginning and ending of each row, until it is reduced to the original number of fourteen stitches.

No. 8.

IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH.

Set on any even number of stitches you please.

Knit a row plain,

Commence the next row by putting the free pin on the wool, and twisting the wool round it, by bringing it from behind over the pin, and putting it behind again, then knit two loops together, putting the pin into the one nearest to you first, then twist the wool round the pin in the manner described above; knit two together, and so on to the end. Every succeeding row is knit in the same manner.

No. 9.

OPEN CROSS-STITCH.

This is generally knit with two colours (suppose blue and brown); each colour is worked along two rows alternately. In changing colours, observe that the fresh colour crosses from under the last one, which prevents its leaving a hole.

The first row of each colour is turn-stitched the whole way, and the second row of each colour is worked as follows:—

• Knit a stitch,
• Make a stitch,
• Slip a stitch,
• Knit two stitches together,

Draw the slipped loop over the two knit loops. Continue to the end of the row, and then commence two rows with the fresh colour.

This is a very suitable stitch for a shawl-handkerchief, round which, another pattern of knitting should be made.

No. 10.

INSERTION-WORK, OR
BERLIN WIRE STITCH.

If knit with fine thread, and finest needles, it forms beautiful insertion-work for collars, capes, frocks, &c.

If knit with large pins, and lamb’s wool, it is useful for comforters and shawls, and looks very pretty.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• (If for insertion-work, eight, every four stitches forms one pattern.)
• Knit three plain rows or more,
• Take off the first stitch,
• Knit a stitch,
• Knit off two together,
• Make a stitch,
• Again knit a stitch,
• Knit off two together,
• Make a stitch, and knit the last stitch,
• and so on to the end of the row,
• Every alternate row should be knit plain.

No. 11.

PLAIN OPEN STITCH.

• Set on an even number of stitches.
• Knit two plain rows; then,
• Knit the first stitch,
• Pass the worsted in front,
• Knit two together, thus forming a new stitch,
• Again bring the worsted in front,
• Knit two together, thus forming a new one,
• And so on, till the last stitch, which is knit;
• Knit two more rows, and so on.

This is very suitable for shawls and caps.

No. 12.

THE CROW’S-FOOT STITCH.

This is very suitable for shawls, in which case, it should be begun at one of the corners, and added to at every row.

Otherwise set on any number of stitches divisible by three, allowing one over, to begin with.

• After knitting one plain row, begin the pattern as follows:—
• Knit the first stitch,
• Make a stitch,
• Slip a stitch,
• Knit two plain stitches,
• Put the slipped stitch over the two plain ones,
• Again make a stitch,
• Slip a stitch, and so continue to the end.

For the next row, turn every stitch.

No. 13.

CHAIN-STITCH.

• Set on thirteen loops,
• Knit two plain rows,
• Knit three stitches plain,
• Bring the worsted in front,
• Turn seven stitches,
• Turn the worsted back, and knit the remaining three stitches,
• Knit the next row plain,
• Continue as above, till you have knit in all sixteen rows;
• Next knit three stitches plain,
• Take off the four next stitches upon a third pin,
• Knit the next three stitches from behind the third pin, so as
• entirely to miss it, drawing the worsted very tight, so
• as to connect the pins close together;
• Then, knit the four stitches off the third pin, and the twist is
• completed. Knit the remaining three and begin to form a fresh
• link, by knitting three stitches,
• Turning seven,
• Knitting three, and so on; making sixteen more rows before you
• twist again.

No. 14.

THE EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH.

Set on any number of stitches, divisable by six,

• Knit a row plain,
• Turn a row,
• Knit a row plain,
• Knit four stitches, and slip two to the end of the row,
• Turn a row, slipping the stitches that were slipped in
• the preceding row,
• Knit a row, still slipping the two stitches,
• Turn a row, slipping the same two stitches,
• Knit a row, slipping the two stitches,
• Turn a row, slipping the same stitches,
• Turn a row, taking up every stitch,
• Knit a row plain,
• Turn a row.

Commence the next pattern by turning a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, taking care that the slipped loops come in the centre of the previous pattern, continue alternately knitting and turning a row, remembering to slip the two stitches, till you have done six rows, when knit a row, taking up every stitch and so on.

No. 15.

THE COMMON PLAT.

This is very pretty for coverlets, muffatees, &c.

• Set on any number of stitches in threes.
• After knitting a plain row, begin as follows:—

No. 16.

THE ELASTIC RIB.

This is very suitable for cuffs and garters, as it clings or contracts to the form.

• Set on any number of stitches,
• Knit a row,
• Turn a row,
• Knit two rows,
• Turn a row,
• Continue knitting two, and turning one row to the end of the work.

No. 17.

THE ROUGH-CAST, OR,
HUCKABACK STITCH.

• Set on any uneven number of stitches.
• Knit plain and turn stitch alternately, observing to begin every
• row with the plain stitch.
• This is very pretty, and firm, and suitable for borders.

No. 18.

THE EMBOSSED DIAMOND.

• Set on any number of stitches, divisable by seven,
• Knit a row plain.
• Turn a stitch, then knit five, and turn two alternately to the end,
• Knit two, then turn three, and knit four, alternately to the end,
• Turn three, then knit one, and turn six alternately,
• Knit a row plain.
• Turn two, and then knit two, and turn five alternately,
• Knit two, then turn four, and knit three alternately,
• Knit six, and turn one alternately,
• Knit one, and turn six alternately,
• Knit five, then turn three, and knit four alternately,
• Knit three, then turn two, and knit five alternately,
• Knit a row plain.

No. 19.

THE ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH.

• Set on your stitches in elevens,
• Knit two plain stitches,
• Knit two together, again knit two together, draw the first loop
• over the second, knit one plain, and then knit two together,
• knit two more together, draw the first loop over second,
• knit one plain, and so on to the end.

No. 20.

IMITATION DOUBLE KNITTING.

• Set on any even number of stitches.
• Turn a stitch, and knit a stitch alternately.

As the stitch that was knit before is now to be turned, commence every row with a turn stitch; this makes both sides alike, and though single, gives it the appearance of double knitting.

No. 21.

THE KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH.

Set on any number of stitches, allowing three stitches for each pattern, and one besides at each end.

• Knit a plain row,
• Take off the first loop,
• Knit two stitches together in turn stitch,
• Make a stitch by passing the wool before, and knitting one,
• Turn two stitches together,
• Again make and knit a stitch, and so on,
• Every row is begun and continued the same.

No. 22.

THE PURSE STITCH.

• Set on ninety or an hundred stitches,
• Knit the first stitch,
• Make a stitch by putting the silk over the pin,
• Slip a stitch,
• Knit a stitch,
• Turn the slipped stitch over the knit one,
• Repeat this till the row is finished,
• Knit the next row in turn stitch,
• Repeat as above, alternately knitting a row in turn stitch,
• till the whole is completed.

No. 23.

THE LACE WAVE STITCH.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Slip the first stitch,
• Knit a stitch,
• Make a stitch (by putting the cotton over the pin),
• Knit two stitches together to narrow,
• Again knit a stitch,
• Make a stitch, and narrow till the row is complete,
• Knit the next row plain,
• Next row, knit two plain stitches, make a stitch,
• narrow two stitches in one, knit a stitch, make
• a stitch, and narrow to the end of the row,
• Next row, knit plain,
• Next row, knit three plain stitches, and continue as above,
• by making a stitch, narrowing two stitches in one,
• and knitting a stitch,
• Next row, knit plain,
• Next row, knit four stitches, and continue as above,
• by making one, narrowing two, and knitting one stitch.
• Next row, knit plain,
• Next row, knit five stitches plain, and do as above,
• Knit two rows plain.
• This forms one wave or pattern.

Continue as above to any length required; this, knit with fine thread, forms beautiful lace for night-cap borders.

No. 24.

THE HERRING-BONE
BAG STITCH.

• Set on your stitches by fours,
• Knit two plain stitches,
• Turn the silk twice over the pin to make a long stitch,
• Knit two stitches together,
• Repeat this till the whole is finished.

No. 25.

AN IMPROVED OPEN STITCH.

• Knit the first row plain,
• Knit the second row like the usual open stitch,
• by knitting the first stitch, putting the worsted
• in front, to make a stitch, and knitting two stitches
• together, and so on;
• Next knit one row plain,
• Turn-stitch three rows, and
• Knit one row plain,

This is particularly suitable for muffatees, bags, and reticules.

No. 26.

THE SHAWL STITCH.

This is very suitable for shawls, caps, and handkerchiefs, knit with soft wool, and large pins, and for mittens, with fine black thread or silk, and is done as follows:—

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Knit the second row in the Hole-stitch,
• the next row in Turn-stitch, and so on.

No. 27.

THE CROSS-STITCH PATTERN.

This is very suitable for bags, purses, gentlemen’s caps, &c.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Put the wool over the pin, and make a stitch,
• Put the needle into two stitches, and knit them backwards,
• and so on.
• Observe to throw the wool properly over the pin, as, if wrongly
• twisted, it is apt to make two stitches.

No. 28.

THE CURB STITCH.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Knit a plain row,
• Next row, knit the first stitch, after which continue as follows:—
• Bring the wool in front, turn a stitch, put the wool back,
• knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin.
• Observe, in the next row, the long stitch is the turned stitch.

No. 29.

THE TWO COLOURED
RIBBED STITCH.

This is a very pretty stitch for cuffs, mits, or muffatees, and should be done in two colours, or one colour with white.

• Set on an even number of stitches, and continue knitting,
• letting every other stitch be of one colour, and the
• alternate loops of the other.
• Observe, in crossing the worsteds, always to keep the
• white wool uppermost.

No. 30.

A BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND STITCH.

• Set on the stitches in threes, and one over,
• Slip off the first stitch. Then knit all along as follows,
• always keeping the wool in front,
• Slip one stitch, holding the loop, as if going to turn-stitch,
• Put the wool over the pin, to make a loop,
• Knit two turn stitches in one.
• Next row, it is to be turn-stitched all the way, excepting that
• the formed stitch of the last row is always to be slipped,
• taking hold of it as in turning.

After the beginning of this alternate row, there will be always two single turn stitches, and one slipped stitch all along.

No. 31.

THE RAISED FRENCH STITCH.

• Set on an even number of stitches,
• Turn the wool over the pin to make a stitch,
• Knit two together, and so on to the end of the row:
• Next row, turn-stitch the whole way,
• Next row, knit plain,
• Next row, turn-stitch, making in all three plain rows;
• Repeat the whole as above.

If this is for a shawl, increase one stitch at two loops from the end of the needle, always at the same place, once in every rib.

No. 32.

THE TWO COLOURED
CHAIN STITCH.

This is a very pretty stitch, and is suitable for muffatees, bags, and mats. It is knit with two wools, coloured and white, and is done as follows:—

Set on the required number of stitches, and knit in the coloured wool alternately with the white. To form the chain-like appearance, observe to cross the wool, with which the loop is being knit, over the wool of the last loop. Observe to knit off the white loops with the coloured wool, and the coloured loops with the white wool.

No. 33.

THE RUG STITCH.

This is knit with fine pins and worsted of a common kind, and the rug or woolly part is composed of soft thick wool.

Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which, begin with the wool, knitting first one plain stitch, and then pass the wool between the pins, round the second or third finger, according to the depth required, and in front between the pins. Knit another plain stitch, and again carry the wool between the pins, round the fingers in front, and make another stitch, and so on to the end of the row, when cut off the wool, and knit the row back with the worsted, which secures the fringe.

Lay the wool between the pins again, after knitting the first plain stitch, and continue as before, making a loop of fringe between each plain stitch, and so on. After knitting the number of rows required, cut the fringe and open the wool as much as possible, taking care not to pull it out.

No. 34.

THE NONDESCRIPT.

• Set on any number of stitches, knit as follows,
• always slipping the first stitch;
• Make a stitch, by putting the wool over the pin,
• Knit a stitch;
• Next row, knit two stitches together all along the pin;
• Continue as above.

No. 35.

A NEW STITCH.

• Set on any number of stitches,
• Put the wool over the pin to make a stitch,
• Turn a stitch, and so on:
• Next row, turn-stitch, taking two loops at
• once the whole way.

No. 36.

THE NEW MUFFATEE STITCH.

• Set on any even number of stitches,
• Slip the first stitch, then knit as follows:—
• Put the wool in front of the pin, then take up a loop
• of the former row on the pin, then turn a stitch,
• take up a loop as before, turn a stitch as before,
• and so on;
• Next row, turn-stitch all along, taking two loops at once.

No. 1.

FRINGE.

• Set on eight stitches,
• Knit a plain round,
• Slip the first loop,

Double the wool, and put the knot over the pin; knit two loops, put the wool behind, knit one, bring it in front, knit two, turn it behind, and knit one; turn it again in front, and knit the last loop, then knit a plain row. In the third row, slip the first loop, put the little finger of the left hand through the fringe, and pass the wool for the next loop, round the finger also, then turn it over the pin, and knit the row as before.

No. 2.

ANOTHER FRINGE.

This is very suitable for doyleys and pincushion covers; in which case, it must be knit with cotton.

• Set on twelve stitches,
• Knit a stitch,
• Make a stitch, by putting the cotton over the pin,
• Knit two stitches in one,
• Continue this till the row is finished.

Proceed onwards until a strip of sufficient length is made to go round the doyley or article for which it is intended. Then fasten off six of the stitches, letting the other six drop off your pins, and unrove it down the whole length of the strip, to form the fringe. Sew it on with coarse white cotton.

No. 3.

A SHAWL FRINGE.

• Cast on five stitches,
• Slip off the first stitch,
• Knit the second stitch,
• Make a stitch,
• Knit two stitches together,

At the last stitch, twist the cotton three times over the pin and the second finger, or over the pin and a mesh of the proper depth of the fringe, and knit it firmly on. Let every alternate row be plain.

No. 4.

A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE
AND BORDER.

No. 5.

A VERY PRETTY FRINGE,

For mats, handkerchiefs, mits, &c.

Use fine pins and common worsted for knitting the fringe, which should be of thick handsome wool.

Set on as many stitches as are required for the length of the piece of fringe.

• Knit one plain row,
• Next row, knit one stitch,

Lay the wool (either singly, or doubly, or even trebly, if required very full) between the pins, from the front towards the back, round the second or third finger, according to the depth required, and back again through the pins in front. Knit the next stitch, and again carry the wool behind round the fingers, to make another loop of fringe, and when brought forward between the pins, make another stitch and so on, to the end of the row, after which, knit a plain row back, to secure it more firmly, knitting alternately with the wool and worsted, fastening off as you go along.

No 6.

FRINGE FOR CURTAINS.

This is a useful and very pretty fringe for toilet tables, curtains, pincushions, &c., and is made of cotton, wool, worsted, silk, or any other material; the first, however, is more useful, because it washes well.

• Set on ten stitches, and knit every row as follows:—
• Slip the first stitch,
• Knit the next stitch,
• Put the cotton over the pin twice,
• Turn two stitches together,
• Turn the cotton back,

Put the cotton or wool, for the fringe, over the pin, leaving the ends behind. Knit one stitch, turn the wool in front, knit two stitches, turn the wool behind, knit two stitches, again bring the wool in front, and knit the remaining stitch. Knit a row plain, taking the wool with the stitch when you come to it, to make it quite firm.

The fringe should be cut in pieces of the proper length, and three or four taken together, to be knit in at once.

STOCKINGS.

Knit stockings are considered so much better than woven ones for wear, that it is advisable for all servants, cottagers and labourers invariably to adopt them, as the former will last out three or more of the woven, which are more suitable for the higher classes.

The children of the poor should always be taught to knit, and each member of a family ought to have a stocking in hand to take up at idle moments, by which means many pairs might be completed in the year. It is difficult to make very correct scales for different sized knit stockings, as so much depends on the quality of the worsted and of the pins, as also on the knitter, as some persons work much slacker than others, so that two stockings knit with the same pins and worsted, may be of very different sizes when knit by different persons.

The following proportion for a general rule is good, and may prove useful, though to tolerably experienced knitters, it is recommended to procure a pair of stockings that fit very well, and to knit others like them, which can easily be done by means of constantly measuring and comparing them with the pattern.

GENERAL PROPORTIONS FOR STOCKINGS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 21.

• Ascertain the proper breadth of the stocking.
• From the top to the bend of the knee is one square,
• or the length of the breadth.
• From the bend of the knee to the beginning of the calf
• is one square or breadth.
• From the beginning to the end of the calf, is one square
• or breadth.[2]