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Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5)

Chapter 24: APPENDIX.
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About This Book

An extended travel journal recounts overland journeys into North and Central Africa, combining day-by-day narrative with mapped routes and visual sketches. It documents landscapes, climate, and the practical difficulties of desert and interior travel, including logistics, escorts, and the cautious use of arms. The account presents systematic ethnographic observations of languages, customs, religious practices, and political arrangements among the communities visited, and describes efforts to establish friendly relations with local rulers. Interwoven with geographical and scientific notes, the narrative reflects on methods of exploration and the challenges of gathering reliable information under arduous conditions.

Quite apart seems to be a place called Gáyim, which is governed by a chief called Kámmedán; and I know not whether another place called Kárbo be comprised in the same principality or not. These are the great haunts of the freebooters, who infest the border districts, from Dam-erghú to the very heart of Kánem.

Thursday, January 9th.This was the great market-day in Tágelel, on which account our departure was put off till the following day; but the market did not become thronged until a late hour. I went there in the afternoon. The market-place, which was about 800 yards distant from our encampment, towards the west, upon a small hilly eminence, was provided with several sheds or rúnfas. The articles laid out for sale consisted of cotton (which was imported), tobacco, ostrich-eggs, cheese, mats, ropes, nets, earthenware pots, gúras (or drinking-vessels made of the Cucurbita ovifera and C. lagenaria) and kórios (or vessels made of a fine sort of reed, for containing fluids, especially milk); besides these there were a tolerable supply of vegetables, and two oxen, for sale. The buyers numbered about a hundred.

In the afternoon two magozáwa, or pagans, in a wild and fanciful attire (the dry leaves of Indian corn or sorghum hanging down from their barbarous headdress and from the leather apron, which was girt round their loins and richly ornamented with shells and bits of coloured cloth), danced in front of our tents the “devil’s dance”—a performance of great interest in regard to the ancient pagan customs of these countries, and to which I may have occasion to revert, when I speak about Dodó, or the evil spirit, and the representation of the souls of the dead.

Tágelel was a very important point for the proceedings of the mission on several accounts. For here we had reached the lands where travellers are able to proceed singly on their way; and here Overweg and I were to part from Mr. Richardson, on account of the low state of our finances, in order to try what each of us might be able to accomplish single-handed and without ostentation, till new supplies should arrive from home. Here, therefore, the first section of my narrative will most appropriately terminate.

[200]The Tagáma were said by some of our informants to have come from Jánet; but I was not able to confirm this piece of information. However I am sure that they belong to a stock settled in these regions long before the Kél-owí. We find them settled on the borders of Negroland in very ancient times. Horneman, from what he heard about them, believed them to be Christians.

[201]Clapperton and Denham’s Travels, vol. ii. p. 107.

[202]The Western Tawárek call the doctor “anéssafar.”

[203]I shall describe this sort of tent in the narrative of my stay amongst the Western Tawárek.

[204]This name means “the mosque;” and the tribe, apparently, has formerly been settled somewhere in a town. By the Arabs it is regarded as greatly Arabicized, and is even called ʿÁraba. We shall meet another tribe of the same name in the West.

[205]A representation of such a stack of corn is given in the next volume.

[206]Besides these I learnt the names of the following places of Dam-erghú:—Nimináka, Gómtu, Sabón-garí, Dágabi, Dagábitáng, Bírji-n-bága; Kúfkúf (called Kobkob by Mr. Richardson in the itinerary which, on his first journey to Ghát, he forwarded to Government[a]), in the W., with a lake of very great dimensions; Babá-n-bírni, a place which I think in former times has been the chief town of the district; Kuyáwa, Da-n-kúmbu, Da-n-gérki, Marké (a very common name in Central Sudán); Zozáwa, at the foot of the high cone of the same name mentioned above; Lekári, also S.; Dammágaji, the place mentioned above; Ngól-mata, N.; Ngól-ganó, Ngól-kalé, Banwélki, Gagáwa, Karíkau, Keshír-keshír, Dammókochi, Nakéfadáng, Damméle, Guyé-guyé, Kabíwa, Fókeni, Gámakay, Burúru, Gángará, Tágelel-ta-Dágabi (different from Ánnur’s residence); Maryámatángh, Kusúmmetángh (both these places are Tawárek settlements); Maizáki, Málemrí, Malenkáderi (prop. Mʿallem Káderi), Chíririm, Esúwi, Músherí, Músajá, Aikáuri, Addankólle, Jémagu-Gomaigéne, Lamá, Hámedan, Karáza, Alkúre, Dantánka, Agwá, Makárarí, Kasallíya, Fárag, Gámaran, Ungwa Sámmit, Yesíyu-Négdar, Chílim-potúk (N. of Kulankérki), Ginnári, Golmaija, Kúnkuré (the tortoise), Báya-n-Dúchi (a village so called on account of its being situate behind a hillock or rocky eminence, and the birthplace of the chief Músa), Dakári, Majá, Gílmirám, Maihánkuba.

[a]b, p, and f (or rather ph, ʿp) are frequently interchanged in all the dialects of the Central African languages.

[207]There can scarcely be any doubt that this place has some connection with the tribe of Ilasgwas, mentioned by Corippus.


APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.


I.—Route from Ágades to Sókoto.

Day.

 1st. Leaving Ágades in the afternoon, you encamp in the valley called Úleye, where there is a well.

 2nd. Kerbúb, a valley with water in the sand; start at daybreak, arrive after sunset.

 3rd. Aʿazeru; arrive at sunset, having started before daylight. The whole ground travelled over is covered with pebbles, and now and then with a little sand.

 4th. Tebérkurt; arrive after sunset, having passed a watering-place called Arúthes. All pebbles and stones.

 5th. Íngal, a small town; salt of very good quality, and of red colour, is obtained, but only in small quantities. The inhabitants, mostly belonging to the tribe of the Íghdalén, speak a dialect of the Sónghay, and possess much cattle, with which they supply the market of Ágades. Formerly the S.W. gate of that town was therefore called “Kófa-n-Íngal.” Arrive at sunset; ground pebbly, very few large stones.

 6th. ——, a well, the name of which my informant did not remember; arrive about 4 o’clock in the afternoon.

 7th. Afáyen, a valley, where you arrive about the same time; pebbles and sand.

 8th. Encamp on the pebbly plain a little before sunset.

 9th. The same; the plain here is overgrown with a little herbage.

10th. A spot called Semye-táyen; arrive at sunset.

11th. Jóbeli, a considerable place belonging to the province of Ádar, the territory of which begins here.[208] It is the market of the Kél-gerés. The language of the inhabitants is said to be a dialect of the Sónghay; you arrive at about three o’clock P.M., after having passed on your road “Tésaki,” a locality probably so called from the “capparis sodata.”

12th. Awelímmiden, an encampment of the section of this great Tawárek tribe which is called “Awelímmiden wuén Bodhál”; at sunset.

13th. Ir-zaghúr, a village; arrive about one o’clock P.M.; road very rugged.

14th. Tinfáf, a village (N.B. I forgot to ask my informant to what tribe belong the inhabitants of these two places); road rocky.

15th. Dúk-rausu, a village; about one o’clock P.M.

16th. Múzki, a village; at sunset; stony.

17th. Kónni, a considerable place, residence of Ádam, a chief who commands a large body of cavalry; arrive a little after mid-day; road very rocky.

18th. Jáni, a village; at sunset.

19th. Wúrno, a considerable place, the present residence of Emír el Mumenín Alíyu, son of Bello; arrive at one o’clock P.M., after having passed Saláme and other villages.

20th. Sókoto, after a march of about eight or nine hours.

II.—Route from Ágades to Marádi, according to the information of the Kél-gerés Gojéri and his companion Gháser.

 1st. Érazar, a valley, where you arrive about three o’clock P.M., having started from Ágades in the morning.

 2nd. Ém-réndel, a valley; arrive about the same hour.

 3rd. Urzédem, a valley; arrive at sunset, your march having led over a sandy region.

 4th. A valley, with water, which (according to Gojéri) is called Témiye, but according to Gháser, Afénkúk; at about four o’clock. Probably these are different valleys at a short distance from each other.

 5th. A valley, Tewuílu, or another called Bégem; at sunset.

 6th. Akúku; at ʿaser (about four o’clock), after having passed a valley called Zeríten, where you fill your water-skins. The whole road consists of pebbles.

 7th. Tígger-áderez, a valley; at four o’clock.

 8th. Etíddul, high sand-hills, where you arrive about noon.

 9th. Jénkeb, a valley; about two o’clock P.M.

10th. Yamímma, a valley with water; arrive at ʿaser.

11th. Zermenétta, a village; about ʿaser.

12th. Awelímmid, a considerable place called after a settlement of the Awelímmiden; arrive about one o’clock P.M.

13th. Ladémmau, or Eladémmau, the northernmost village of the province of Góber, and the residence of Ittegáma, the brother of ʿAbd el Káder, the sultan of Ágades.

14th. Gudunnézna, a village; arrive about one o’clock P.M.

15th. Ákerúf, a village; at the ʿaser.

16th, and the two following days travel over the Hammáda, or sárari.

19th. Arrive at Marádi, Mariyádi, or, as the Emgédesi people frequently call it (apparently adopting the Berber idiom), Amrádi. I shall have to say more about this country in the course of my narrative, and therefore omit a list of the places in Góber, which I collected in Ágades.

III.—Itinerary from Ágades to Dam-erghú, according to various informants.

1st. Leave the town in the afternoon, and sleep in Tésak-n-tállemt.

2nd. Valley Ériyán, with water; about ʿaser.

3rd. Sofó-n-bírni, a place now deserted, with a well filled up, but evidently once a seat of government, being called “the old capital;” the whole country is flat; arrive about three o’clock in the afternoon.

4th. Faífaí, a place with plenty of herbage; no water on the roadside except in holes in the rocks.

5th. Lágato, a basin or pool of water, “tébki,” of very remarkable extent, and surrounded with abundant herbage.

6th. Riyán, or “Eriyán-embísge,” with plenty of herbage; about sunset. Another road from Lágato to Téténi seems to touch at the village Takóko.

7th. Téténi, with much herbage, no water; between four and five o’clock P.M.

8th. Gagáwa, a village belonging to the district of Dam-erghú, with a basin of water which is said to be connected in the rainy season with that of Lágato; arrive about ʿaser.

9th. Tágelel, the village belonging to the chief Ánnur; about noon.

IV.—Route from Ágades to Bílma, according to the Emgédesi Éderi.

 1st. Leaving Ágades in the evening, sleep the first night at about half an hour’s distance from the town, in the depression called Efígi-n-tághalamt.

 2nd. Tin-tabórak, a valley with water, where you arrive at the ʿaser, after having passed early in the morning the valley called Amelúli.

 3rd. Binébbu, a valley ornamented with dúm-palms, where you arrive a little before sunset. In the morning you keep for a while along the valley of Tin-tabórak, after which your way lies over the rocks, crossing three different valleys, viz. Eméller, Aráta, and the valley of Amdégeru, before you arrive at that called Binébbu.

 4th. Tín-dawén, a valley with water; arrive about one o’clock P.M.

 5th. Atezérket, after the ʿaser; all rocky ground.

 6th. Encamp on the Hammáda, or ténere, consisting of pebbles; about the ʿaser.

 7th. Tázel, a spot among the rocks; about the same hour.

 8th. Efígagén, a locality of similar character; about sunset.[209]

 9th. Débradu Ezákker, a hollow between the rocks; halt two hours after sunset and rest awhile, then start again.

10th, and the four following days, you travel night and day over the Hammáda, making only a short halt from ʿAshá to about midnight. On the Hammáda there are neither trees nor stones, and scarcely any herbage.

15th. Fáshi, the westernmost oasis of the “Hénderi Tedá,” or, as it is called by the Arabs, Wádi Kawár, with plenty of date-trees and two castles, one of which is in ruins, while the other is in good condition.

16th. About two hours after sunset, encamp on the Hammáda, when, after about three or four hours’ repose, you start again, and continue the whole of the night.

17th. Encamp late in the evening and start again, as the day before.

18th. Bílma, the well-known town in Kawár, with the salt-pits. The Tawárek call all the Tedá or Tébu Beraúni, a name which in the following volume I shall endeavour to explain, from the original connection between this people and the Kanúri or Bórnu race.

V.—Route from Ágades to Tawát according to ʿAbd-Alla.

N.B. Although the first part of this route, as far as Neswa, coincides in many places with my own route, I shall nevertheless not omit it, as the coincidence in question proves the accuracy and intelligence of the informant.

 1st. Leaving the town in the afternoon, you encamp the first night near the village called El Khasás, or El Hakhsás, in the fertile valley of the same name, distant from Ágades about eight miles.

 2nd. Télwa, a valley, where you arrive about the ʿaser, after having passed on your road several valleys separated from each other by rocky ground, more or less elevated. Early in the morning you cross the valley called Ázal, then that called Tufátekín; after which, about noon, you pass the celebrated valley of Ír-n-allem, with ruins of old houses, and two fruit-bearing date-trees; after which, before you arrive at Télwa, there is still another valley to be crossed, which is called Isérserén.

 3rd. Úklef, a valley with water, like Télwa; arrive at the time of the ʿaser, after having crossed the Wadi Ása, and afterwards gone over a pebbly level called Tínin.

 4th. Makám e’ Sheikh ben ʿAbd el Kerím, a sort of mosque known to some under the name of Msíd Sídi Baghdádi, where you arrive about an hour before sunset, after having rested, during the greatest heat, near Aúderas. In the morning, your road passes for some time along the valley Úklef.

 5th. Tíggeda; about ʿaser.

 6th. Encamp about sunset on rocky ground. Pass in the morning the valley called Tefárrowet; then cross for some hours gravelly ground, with a few large white projecting stones; after which you descend into the valley called Ágaten, where, near a well, you pass the hours of the greatest heat.

 7th. Ténsif; arrive before the ʿaser.

 8th. Iferwán, one of the finest valleys of Aïr, with a village of the same name, and plenty of date-trees bearing excellent fruit. Arrive at sunset, after having passed a number of small valleys called Aghítam.

 9th. Tídik, a valley, with a village of the same name, where you arrive before the ʿaser, after having passed the well called Néggaru.

10th. Súf méllel, “the white sand,” a place in the gravelly ground, over which your route lies the whole day; arrive about ʿaser.

11th. Zelíl, an inhabited spot, where you arrive about one o’clock P.M., after having passed valleys called respectively Ageléndi, Fadé, and Merátha. (N.B. The valley can be called by this last name only by the Arabs.)

12th. Ifígi or Ifíne-makkéder, called by others Ifíne-bákka, where you arrive at sunset, after having marched the whole day over a pebbly plain called by the Arabs “Shʿabet el Ahír.” The reason why this plain received such a remarkable name was evidently because it was here, in the neighbourhood of the hill Máket-n-ikelán[210], that the ancient Góber country of Asben was changed into the Berber country of Aïr, or, as the Arabs call it, Ahír.

13th. You encamp on the Hammáda, where there is a little herbage, after having crossed a rocky ground full of pebbles, and having passed a valley called Tiyúten.

14th. You encamp at one o’clock P.M. on a spot with a little herbage of the species called “el hád,” after having crossed a stony tract called by the people Tim-ázgaren.

15th. Néswa, a well, not far west of the well Asïu, where you arrive after the ʿaser, after having crossed a valley called Tafsástan.

16th. Teráf, a place on the Hammáda, where you encamp at the ʿaser.

17th. Tin-terámbe, a valley, with a famous cavern called Aʿagídet e’ Níb, where you arrive at the ʿaser, proceeding always on the Hammáda.

18th. Encamp at sunset between sand-hills called by the Arabs “el Ark,” or “Irk” (the Hills).

19th. Tageréra, a valley, where you arrive about one o’clock P.M., after having entered a mountainous tract called “Aghíl.”

20th. El Ághsul, a valley with water, where you arrive a little after noon, after having passed over rugged ground called Esfaméllesa.

21st. Tékderen, a valley, where you arrive after the ʿaser.

22nd. Egháraghén, a valley, where you arrive at the time of the ʿaser, after having crossed a flat plain covered with pebbles.

23rd. Zérzer, a valley with water; arrival at the ʿaser. The ground of the same character.

24th. Ifék, a valley; arrival at the ʿaser. Country the same.

25th. El Imkám[211], a valley, where you arrive at one o’clock P.M., pebbly ground.

26th. Ágnar, a plain inclosed by ridges; arrive at the ʿaser, after having kept first along the valley which is called by the Arabs el Imkám, and leads into another valley called Temághaset, from which you enter upon the plain.

27th. Turaghén, a valley, where you encamp about the ʿaser, after having crossed another valley called Utúl, into which you descend from the gravelly level.

28th. Tílak, a valley; where you arrive after the ʿaser, having crossed another valley called Éheri.

29th. Tema-sanéggeti, a valley; arrive at the ʿaser, having crossed another valley called Tín-agh-ákeli.

30th. Én-émmegel, a valley rich in trees, where you encamp at sunset. To-day you have to pass two other valleys called Erésnughén and Tin-táheli, all these valleys being separated from each other by a hammáda of an even surface, without stones.

31st. Tehárraket, a valley commanded by a mountain called Turéret, where you arrive about the ʿaser; pebbles and stones.

N.B. Tehárraket is a very important point on this route, as, having now turned the high mountainous region of the desert of the Hogár or Hágara, which you leave on your right, you change your direction, and turn northwards.

32nd. Hágara, a valley with a well called Tehelehóhet, where you arrive after the ʿaser.

33rd. Súf méllel, another locality of the same name as that above mentioned, where you arrive about the ʿaser, after having passed two valleys, the first of which is called Akdhau, and the other Ém-ujáj.

34th. Sheikh Sálah with the surname Melá el ákhsen, “the best of men,”[212] near to whose chapel, situate in the mountainous tract Tésennu, there is water; you arrive a little before sunset, having passed over a pebbly level.

35th. Terazart, “the little valley” or “glen;” shortly before sunset; hammáda.

36th. Emmesír, a valley, where you arrive after the ʿaser. In the morning you keep along a valley called Méniyet, with a well, beyond which you cross another valley called Afísfes, while the last part of your road leads over the hammáda, consisting of gravel.

37th. Etgúlgulet, where you arrive at the time of the ʿaser. In the morning you keep for a while along the valley Emmesír, till you reach the valley called Arák; and following it up, you pass two watering-places, one of which is called (by the Arabs) Sekíyah, and the other “el Hájar.”

38th. Tajemút, a valley, where you encamp before the ʿaser.

39th. Koikewát, a cluster of small valleys, where you encamp at one o’clock, P.M.

40th. Gurdí, a valley, where you arrive a little before sunset, after having crossed another valley called Teráttimín, with water.

41st. The well in the long valley Ághmemár.

42nd. Encamp about the same hour, still in the same valley Ághmemár.

43rd. Én-semméd, where you arrive after the ʿaser. In the morning you still keep along the broad valley of Ághmemár until you ascend a mountain, from which you descend into another valley called by the Arabs “el Botta,” probably on account of its hollow shape; here is a well called “Tin-Slimán.” Proceeding along the valley, you reach the place of your encampment for the night.

44th. El Ghábah (the Forest), of great extent and full of brushwood; arrive at the ʿaser, after having crossed on your road a depression or hollow called e’ Shaʿab, from which you enter upon rising ground and come to the forest.

45th. Ín-sálah, the great market-place of the southernmost district of Tawát, where you arrive about the ʿaser, first keeping in the forest, then ascending a little.

N.B.—Along this route, as I learned on a later occasion, there are several places where salt is found, which, as the fact is one of the greatest interest, I shall here name together, although I am unfortunately not able to connect the first places which I have to mention with the corresponding points of the itinerary. These are Ém-éddarór, said to be six days’ march from Asïu; further on, Ahóren, and, one day S. from the well Tin-slimán, Én-méllel.

I here also add what information I could collect about the tribes dwelling on or near this road. As far as Néswa, we know them from what I have said above; but the first part also of the road from this place is inhabited by sections of the Imghád, as the Kél-áhenet, while the Ijrán have their settlements even as far west as the valley Tájemút.

a. The Sakomáren.

Next to the Imghád, on the north side of the road, are the Sakomáren, a tribe who in the middle age of the Arabs lived N.E. from the middle course of the so-called Niger, and of whom some remains are still to be found in the neighbourhood of that river, near Timbúktu; for there can be no doubt about the identity of these tribes.[213] By what revolution this tribe was driven from their ancient seats we are not yet able to say; however it may be, Ebn Batúta found the Berdáma where the Sakomáren had formerly resided.

Their present settlements seem not to be so very dreary, and are said to be rich in pasture-grounds, so that they are enabled to breed plenty of cattle, and make a good deal of butter, with which they supply the less favoured districts of Ásben. They appear to possess, however, little strength, and are greatly influenced apparently by their intimate friendship with the Tawátíye; part of them live even in the territory of the latter oasis, principally belonging to the section called Welád-wúen-Tawát, a name manifesting a curious mixture of Arabic and Temáshight, though the main body of them is said to dwell in the district of Amgíd. Besides the name of this tribe, I learnt the names of the following: viz.,

The Kél-tegéttuft, who inhabit the district called Ahóhoghén;

The Kél-úhet, whose tents are generally pitched in Ahéllegen;

The Welád Témenít, living in Fazólet;

The tribe of the Háj ʿAli, living in a valley called Gháris: and,

The Ihiyáwen-háda, a tribe living in Imáhir, and probably related to the tribe called simply Ihiyáwen.

b. The Hogár or Hágara.

Formerly I thought that the Hogár were more numerous than their eastern kinsmen the Azkár, and that they were able to bring into the field as many as three thousand men; but I have discovered in the course of my proceedings, that the free men, the real “hharár” or Imóshagh among them scarcely exceed five hundred, while of course their Imghád and slaves muster a greater number. But notwithstanding their small number, the Hogár are much feared by the other tribes, on account of their great bodily size and strength, and because they are armed with a variety of weapons, and are thickly clothed. They live entirely upon meat and milk, and have few resources but their herds, as they do not levy tribute on the caravans, but receive only small sums from the Kúnta, the Berabísh, and even a light tax from Arawán. They are not capable of turning to account the salt-mines of Taodénni, which are rather distant from their seats, though they levy a small tribute from the chief of that place. But their relations to the western part of the desert will be more clearly understood from what I shall say in another place.

The Hogár are divided into six branches:—

The Kél-ghálla, inhabiting the valley of Erárar (a general appellation for a large valley plain);

The Bu-ghelán, living in the valley of Téfedist;

The Tai-túk, inhabiting the fine valley Arák;

The Tégehin-usídi, who have their abode in the valley of Téghazart;

The Inémba, who pitch their tents in the valley Tífi-n-ákeli;

The Íkdeyén, who inhabit Anímmegel.

I will now add a few remarks on the centre of the district occupied by this tribe, which seems to present traits of peculiar interest. It is generally called by the Arabs “jébel Hagár,” but this is not the original appellation, its true or indigenous name being “Atakór.” This mountain-mass (which evidently lies in the angle formed by the route from Asïu to Tawát) stretches from three to four days’ march in length, and one in breadth, from S. to N., at the distance of seven days’ march S.E. from Tawát. My intelligent friend the sheikh Sídi Ahmed el Bakáy, in Timbúktu, who had lived some time among the Hogár, as well as among the tribes of Aïr, especially the Kél-fadaye, assured me, in the most positive way, that this mountain-group, and one long range of it in particular, is far higher than the mountains of Aïr; the rocks being very steep and of red colour. He represented to me, as very remarkable and probably the highest of the group, the isolated, detached, and steep peak Ílimán or Élimán. Very fine valleys and glens are formed between these mountains, some of them watered by lively perennial streams, and producing figs and grapes.

In this place may be fitly mentioned those Tawárek tribes that live within the boundaries of Tawát. These are the Kél-eméllel or Welád Fákki, as they are called by the people of Tawát, and their kinsmen the Tígge-n-sákkel, and also the Tígge-n-gáli. These tribes are regarded as belonging to the Tawárek, while the Gurára are considered as Zenáta; and it is very erroneous to regard Tawát as almost a Tawárek country.

VI.—Route from Ágades to the Hillet e’ Sheikh Sídi el Mukhtár in Azawád, according to the Kél-ferwán Baina.

N.B. This route is a path taken at present every year by the Kél-ferwán when they sally forth to plunder the caravans on the road from Tawát to Timbúktu; it is not altogether a direct road, as I learnt afterwards. But unfortunately none of the people of Azawád (who, as I mentioned above, when they do not go by way of Timbúktu, generally take the road to Mekka by way of Ágades) was able to give me the exact details of the direct road. This road passes through the seats of the Awelímmiden.

Day.

 1st. Énwágged, a valley, where you arrive at the ʿaser, having started from Ágades in the morning.

 2nd. Imintédent (perhaps Ém-n-tédent), where you arrive about the same hour, having crossed many depressions or hollows in the rocky ground.

 3rd. Sakéret, a valley; arrive at sunset.

 4th. Etmet Tadérret, a valley; arrive two hours after sunset.

 5th. Agrédem; about ʿaser. The whole day’s journey lies over a hammáda of red soil (recalling to mind the sameness of all these elevated levels in Central Africa), the red colour being produced by the iron oxide.

 6th. Etsá-n-élimán; at ʿaser. Hammáda.

 7th. Tímmia; at ʿaser. Hammáda.

 8th. Ebelághlaghén; about the same hour. Hammáda.

 9th. Isakeríyen; about the same hour. The hammáda is here covered with a little herbage. The road thus far seems to be about N.N.W.; hence it turns north-westward.

10th. Etsá-n-Hébbi; about the ʿaser.

11th. Igédian; about one o’clock P.M.

12th. Akár; about the ʿaser.

13th. Kélijít; a little after noon.

14th. Ákalú, a considerable valley with water, which you reach at one o’clock.

15th. Ákerír, an inhabited valley, where you arrive about the ʿaser, having travelled the morning till after mid-day along the valley Ákalú.

16th. Kídal; after the ʿaser.

This name, as I learnt afterwards, is not applied to a single locality, but comprises a district with fertile valleys, inhabited by the Debákal, who breed an excellent race of horses.

17th. Tim-áklali; about ʿaser.

18th. Asalágh; at sunset, after having crossed several hollows in the rocky ground. Here you find inhabitants, partly Arabs, of the tribe of the Kúnta, partly Tawárek, of the widely dispersed tribe of the Ífógas.

19th. Aghasher (Eghazar), a fine valley with date-trees, corn, and tobacco. At some distance from it is another fertile valley called Tesillíte, likewise abounding in dates.

20th. Tigháughawen; about the ʿaser.

21st. Hillet e’ Sheikh Sídi el Mukhtár, a celebrated place of worship, where you arrive about one o’clock P.M. This place ought to have considerable interest for all those who take an interest in the circumstances attending the frequent sacrifice of life made in the arduous endeavour to open the African continent to European science and intercourse; for this is the very spot where the unfortunate Major Laing, under the protection of Sídi Mohammed, the father of my noble friend the sheikh el Bakáy, recovered from those fearful wounds which he had received in the nocturnal attack by the Tawárek in Wadi Ahénnet. Hence, in the few letters which he sent home, so full of resignation and heroic courage, he called the place “belád Sídi Mohammed.” In the further course of our narrative this spot will be connected with Timbúktu.

[208]I shall say more about Ádar in the fourth volume of my journal.

[209]About the name Efígagén, which is probably only a dialectic variety of Efínagen, I have spoken in a former passage.

[210]See my narrative, p. 289.

[211]The name Imkám is remarkable. It seems to denote a religious “station;” and it is interesting, as it exactly corresponds with the station Dekhár, mentioned by the famous traveller Ebn Batúta as ten days distant from the well where the road to Tawát separated from that to Egypt, which, there cannot be the least doubt, is identical with Asïu or with Néswa.

[212]Whether this Sheikh Sálah be the same as the famous sheikh of the same name, who has given his name to the celebrated Wadi el Sheikh, in the peninsula of Sinai, I cannot tell.

[213]The Arab authors always write صغماره; but with regard to African names there is the greatest uncertainty in the use of the غ, the ق, and the ك. Thus some write غرمه others قرمه; Gober is written كوبر, by others غوبر; Tagant تكانت and تغانت.


VII.

FRAGMENTS OF METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.


Date. Hour of Day. Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit. Remarks.
1850.
April
1 5.15 a.m. 48·6 Rain the whole day.
2 6.0 a.m. 50
3 6.15 a.m. 55·4
4 No observation.
5 5.15 a.m. 51·8
6 5.0 a.m. 50
7.30 p.m. 55·4
7 5.10 a.m. 45
8 9.30 p.m. 72·5
9 10.0 p.m. 72-5
10 5.30 a.m. 66·6
12.0 84·2
6.30. p.m. 77
11 5.30 a.m. 53·6
6.0 p.m. 68 Easterly wind for some days.
12 5.30 a.m. 50
13 5.15 a.m. 50
2.0 p.m. 91·8
14 5.0 a.m. 43·2
12.0 86
9.30 p.m. 59
15 5.0 a.m. 42
12.0 78·3
9.0 p.m. 57·2
16 5.0 a.m. 43·7
1.30 p.m. 80·6
9.0 p.m. 66·6
17 5.0 a.m. 50·4
12.0 89·6
9.0 p.m. 66·2
18 5.0 a.m. 45·5
12.0 78·8
8.45 p.m. 63·5
19 5.0 a.m. 50·5
20 5.30 a.m. 45·5
12.15 68
21 No observation.
22 5.0 a.m. 48·2
23 6.0 a.m. 50 El Hási.
12.30 86
24 5.30 a.m. 40·1 Most of these days a southerly hot wind towards noon.
12.0 82·4
9.0 p.m. 60·8
25 5.0 a.m. 46·4
12.0 86
2.0 p.m. 109·4
7.0 p.m. 78·8
26 5.0 a.m. 59
12.0 84·4
7.0 p.m. 75·6
27 5.30 a.m. 51·8
7.30 p.m. 80·6
28 12.0 106·7
29 5.0 a.m. 85
12.15 104
7.30 p.m. 89·6
30 5.15 a.m. 73·4
7.30 p.m. 93·2
May
1 5.0 a.m. 77
12.0 102·2
7.0 p.m. 95
2 5.15 a.m. 73·4
7.0 p.m. 98·6
3 5.0 a.m. 73·4
12.25 96·8
8.45 p.m. 82·4
4 6.30 a.m. 62·6
12.0 89·6
7.20 p.m. 73·4
5 1.30 p.m. 89·6
7.0 p.m. 82·4
6 No observation.
7 6.30 a.m. 80·6 (Múrzuk.)
2.0 p.m. 98·6
8 12.30 97·7 A heavy gibleh; the first time to-day we had a covered sky, and found it in the course of our residence characteristic of Múrzuk in this season. Towards evening the sky became generally clouded.
9 12.0 96
7.0 p.m. 93·2
10 6.30 a.m. 75·2
11 6.0 a.m. 73·4
12 6.30 a.m. 77
1.30 p.m. 93·2
13 6.0 a.m. 77
12.0 87·8
7.0 p.m. 86
14 6.45 a.m. 75·2
12.0 90·5
7.0 p.m. 88·7
15 7.0 a.m. 78
12.0 95
7.0 p.m. 94
16 6.15 a.m. 75·2
12.0 95
2.45 p.m. 98·6
7.0 p.m. 91·4
17 6.0 a.m. 80·6
12.45 96
2.40 p.m. 98·6
18 7.0 a.m. 75·2
12.30 94
7.0 p.m. 91·4
19 6.0 a.m. 77·3
12.0 89·6
3.0 p.m. 96
7.0 p.m. 91·4
20 6.0 a.m. 77
12.45 86
3.0 p.m. 89·6
21 6.15 a.m. 72
1.0 p.m. 90
7.0 p.m. 85
22 6.0 a.m. 71·6
12.0 86
2.30 p.m. 90
7.0 p.m. 84·6
23 6.30 a.m. 73·8
12.0 89·6
1.30 p.m. 91·4
3.30 p.m. 94
7.0 p.m. 91·4
11.30 p.m. 82·4
24 5.45 a.m. 78·8
12.15 95
1.45 p.m. 96·8
10.30 p.m. 89·6
25 6.15 a.m. 82·4 In the morning a cool N.E. wind, which had been blowing the whole night.
12.30 87
10.30 p.m. 82·4
26 6.0 a.m. 76 At 8 a.m. it began to rain; but the N.E. wind being heavy, only little rain fell inside the town; more, however, in the desert.
1.0 p.m. 82·4
10.30 p.m. 77
27 6.30 a.m. 72
3.0 p.m. 90
7.0 p.m. 85
10.30 p.m. 78
28 6.0 a.m. 71·6
12.0 84·2
3.15 p.m. 89·6
11.0 p.m. 78
29 6.0 a.m. 72
12.0 87
3.0 p.m. 86 The sky in the afternoon thickly overcast.
10.15 p.m. 80·6
30 6.30 a.m. 75·2 11.30 a.m. it began to rain, the rain becoming gradually heavier, and lasting an hour; but at half-past 8 o’clock in the evening the storm broke forth in its full force, with much lightning but little rain.
12.0 78·8
10.0 p.m. 80·6
31 5.45 a.m. 76
12.0 90
2.45 p.m. 93·2
June
1 6.0 a.m. 80·6
12.0 95
2.0 p.m. 98·6
3.0 p.m. 100·4
10.30 p.m. 91·4
2 7.0 a.m. 85
12.0 89·6
3.0 p.m. 103 At 5 p.m. a heavy storm arose from the westward.
11.45 p.m. 93·2
3 5.15 a.m. 84·2
12.0 99
3.0 p.m. 100·4
7.0 p.m. 98·6
10.45 p.m. 89·6
4 6.0 a.m. 82·8
12.0 96·8
3.0 p.m. 102·2
10.15 p.m. 91·4
5 7.0 a.m. 86
1.0 p.m. 100·4
4.0 p.m. 105
10.30 p.m. 93·2
6 12.0 95
2.30 p.m. 100·4
7 6.0 a.m. 80·6
12.0 86
10.15 p.m. 82·4
8 6.0 a.m. 71·6
12.0 84·2
4.15 p.m. 90
7.0 p.m. 86
9 6.0 a.m. 76
12.0 86
11.0 p.m. 82·4
10 6.0 a.m. 76
2.30 p.m. 94
11.0 p.m. 85
11 5.0 a.m. 69·8
6.30 a.m. 78
12.30 94
12 6.0 a.m. 78·8
12.0 96·8
7.0 p.m. 95
13 5.30 a.m. 80·6
1.30 p.m. 105
14 5.0 a.m. 70·7 A strong gale.
1.30 p.m. 107·6
15 5.15 a.m. 75·2
12.0 111·2
7.0 p.m. 93·2
16 5.45 a.m. 71·6
12.0 102·2
1.30 p.m. 105·8
7.0 p.m. 94
17 12.0 111·2 (Encampment in Tiggérodé.)
1.45 p.m. 114·8 Sky covered.
9.0 p.m. 89·6
18 5.30 a.m. 77
12.45 111·2
9.0 p.m. 95
19 5.0 a.m. 77
2.0 p.m. 108·5
20 5.0 a.m. 77
21 1.0 p.m. 99·5
22 5.30 a.m. 87
12.0 99·5
23 5.30 a.m. 86
12.30 102·2
11.30 p.m. 86
24 5.15 a.m. 87·8
12.0 101·3 A fresh gale.
25 6.0 a.m. 78
1.30 p.m. 108·5
7.30 p.m. 98·6
26 5.0 a.m. 78 The sky towards the east covered.
10.30 a.m. 102·2 Twice in the morning a few drops of rain.
27 5.0 a.m. 69
12.0 93·2
7.0 p.m. 90·5
28 5.0 a.m. 66·2
12.0 93·2
29 5.30 a.m. 69
12.30 98·6
7.45 p.m. 85
30 4.50 a.m. 63·5
1.30 p.m. 103
7.15 p.m. 87·8
July
1 4.50 a.m. 66·2
12.0 99·5
7.30 p.m. 86
2 5.0 a.m. 68
12.30 100·4
7.45 p.m. 83·3 In the afternoon and the following day very heavy N.E. gales.
3 5.0 a.m. 69
12.0 102·2
7.30 p.m. 91·4
4 5.0 a.m. 69·8
12.15 107·6
7.30 p.m. 88·7
5 4.45 a.m. 70·7
12.15 91·4
7.30 p.m. 84·2
6 4.45 a.m. 70·7
1.0 p.m. 89·6
7.30 p.m. 83·3
7 4.45 a.m. 68·5
12.0 85 In the very cool shade of a rock.
8 4.45 a.m. 85
12.45 102·2
9.0 p.m. 87·8
9 4.30 a.m. 75·2
12.30 105·8
9.0 p.m. 89·6
10 4.30 a.m. 70·7
12.0 104
8.0 p.m. 86
11 5.0 a.m. 68
1.0 p.m. 105·8
8.30 p.m. 87·8
12 5.15 a.m. 65·3
1.0 p.m. 106·7
8.15 p.m. 89·6
13 4.45 a.m. 75·2
12.30 107·6
7.30 p.m. 95
14 4.30 a.m. 84·2
12.30 105
7.30 p.m. 93·2
15 4.30 a.m. 75·2 On these days warm southerly wind.
18 4.45 a.m. 64·4
2.15 p.m. 105·8
19 5.30 a.m. 76 (Bárakat.)
20-24 (Ghát) no observations.
25 12.30 104
7.45 p.m. 95
26 4.45 a.m. 82·4
1.15 p.m. 107·6
7.0 p.m. 97·7
27 5.0 a.m. 75·2
12.45 103
7.30 p.m. 93·2
28 4.15 a.m. 69·8
12.45 104
7.30 p.m. 93·2
29 4.45 a.m. 85
12.30 99·5
8.0 p.m. 89·6
30 4.30 a.m. 77 (Égeri.)
1.0 p.m. 96·8
8.30 p.m. 89·6
31 5.0 a.m. 71·6
1.0 p.m. 93·2
Aug.
1 4.45 a.m. 66·2
12.25 98·6
8.0 p.m. 85
2 5.0 a.m. 68
8.0 p.m. 86
3 4.30 a.m. 67
12.40 105·8
In the afternoon a light breeze.
8.15 p.m. 85
4 5.0 a.m. 74·3 (Falésselez.)
12.30 111·2 In the afternoon clouded sky, foreboding rain.
8.0 p.m. 91
5 5.15 a.m. 75·2
1.0 p.m. 102·2
8.0 p.m. 89·6
6 5.0 a.m. 68
1.0 p.m. 100·4
8.0 p.m. 86
7 4.45 a.m. 69
1.0 p.m. 95
8.30 p.m. 84·2
8 4.45 a.m. 74·3
1.0 p.m. 95
9 No observation.
10 5.0 a.m. 68
2.0 p.m. 94
8.0 p.m. 85
11 5.30 a.m. 73·4
1.0 p.m. 93·2
8.0 p.m. 85
12 5.10 a.m. 67 A cool breeze.
1.20 p.m. 93·2
13 5.30 a.m. 77
1·45 p.m. { 96·8 In the cool shade of a rock.
107·6 In aired tent.
14 1.0 p.m. 98·6 Generally a light breeze arose at 10 a.m.
9.30 p.m. 87·8
15 5.0 a.m. 78 The wind to-day got up at an early hour, the sky becoming more and more clouded, till at 1 p.m. a heavy storm broke forth, followed by a heavy shower at 2 o’clock, accompanied by distant thunder.
1.0 p.m 98·6
9.15 p.m. 88·7
16 5.0 a.m. 78.8 The whole day the southern sky was covered with small clouds. The sun was piercing. At 2.30 p.m. a violent storm arose in the east, but did not break forth till 4.30 p.m., when it was followed by a heavy shower.
12.45 98·6
9.0 p.m. 78.8
17 2.0 p.m. 87
18 to 30 No observation.
31 No thermometrical observations. At 3 p.m. a storm, accompanied by a little rain, lasting about an hour; further southwards more rain; during the night another fall of rain.
Sept.
1 Rain the whole of the morning.
2 A fresh wind.
4 A heavy shower in the morning, lasting about two hours.
5 (Tintéllust.) After mid-day a heavy tornado, followed at 2 p.m. by a shower, lasting till 4 p.m.
6 In the afternoon a tornado, and rain till the evening.
7 Sky the whole day clear; no rain.
8 A very heavy tornado in the after-noon from S.S.W., followed by much rain, lasting from 4 p.m. till 10 p.m.
9 In the afternoon a storm gathering from N.E., but reaching us from S.S.W. at 3 p.m., with heavy rain lasting till 7 p.m.
10 A storm all around us; no rain near us.
11 12.30 96·8 No rain.
12 5.45 a.m. 71·6
12.45 96·8 In the afternoon a tornado, with rain.
13 1.0 p.m. 100·4 In the afternoon a storm, without rain.
14 5.30 a.m. 68 No storm.
1.0 p.m. 81·5
15 6.0 a.m. 69·8
12.30 99·5
16 5.30 a.m. 69
1.0 p.m. 99
17
Fine weather.
18
19 At 2 p.m. a storm gathering from S.S.W. and N.N.E., but only a little rain at 3 p.m.
20 At 1 p.m. a storm, followed by heavy rain at 2 p.m.
21
No storm.
22
23 6.0 a.m. 71·6
12.0 96·8 At 2 p.m. a heavy storm, but without rain.
24 6.15 a.m. 73·4
1.0 p.m. 98·6 At 2 p.m. a violent storm, which upset our tents, and was accompanied by heavy rain.
25 6.0 a.m. 64·4 No storm.
1.30 p.m. 95
6.45 p.m. 86
26 6.45 a.m. 64·2
12.30 96
6.0 p.m. 91·4
27 6.15 a.m. 69·8
12.30 95
6.30 p.m. 91·4
28 6.15 a.m. 75·2
12.10 95 At 2 p.m. a heavy tornado, with but a few drops of rain.
6.20 p.m. 86
29 5.40 a.m. 67
12.15 99·5 Sultry weather, but no storm.
6.15 p.m. 91·4
30 5.30 a.m. 68
6.15 p.m. 93·2
Oct.
1 5.40 a.m. 69·8
1.30 p.m. 101·3
6.20 p.m. 95
2 5.45 a.m. 73·4
12.30 97·7
6.45 p.m. 92·3
3 12.30 91·4
4 5.45 a.m. 68
5 12.0 95·7
6.30 p.m. 87·8
6 12.0 100·4
6.15 p.m. 88·7
7 No observation. The last fall of the rainy season, 1850, setting in shortly before noon, and lasting half an hour.
8 6.10 p.m. 87 At 8.30 p.m., while encamped in the valley Bóghel, a meteor fell in our neighbourhood with a very great noise.
From October 9. till November 8. no observations; weather generally clear; cool in the morning; on October 20. sky a little overcast.
Nov.[214]
9 r. 43·7
s. 69
10 r. 47·3
s. 69·8
11 r. 47·3
s. 66·2
12 r. 43·7
1.15 p.m. 86
s. 67·1
13 r. 45·5
12·0 77
5.30 p.m. 66·2
14 r. 43·7
6.0 p.m. 59·9
15 ½ h. bef. r. 50
real r. 41·9
s. 66·2
16 r. 46·4
s. 67·1
17 r. 47·3
s. 69·8
18 r. 48·2
s. 69’8
19 r. 50
s. 68
20 r. 50
s. 68
21 r. 48·2
s. 68
22 r. 50
s. 68
23 r. 48·2 Sky covered; and windy.
s. 65·3
24 r. 48·2 Sky very cloudy.
s. 67
25 r. 50 The weather cleared up.
s. 68
26 r. 50
s. 68
27 r. 50
s. 71·6
28 r. 50
s. 71·6
29 r. 51·8 Sky covered.
s. 72·5
30 r. 57·2 At 9.30 a.m. the sun broke forth.
s. 74·3
Dec.
1 r. 52·7
s. 72·5
2 r. 51
s. 68
3 r. 53·6
s. 66·2
4 r. 46·4
s. 71·6
5 r. 58·1 Sky very cloudy.
s. 78
6 r. 57·2
s. 72·5
7 r. 54·5
s. 71·6
8 r. 50
9 No observation. Very cold easterly wind.
10 r. 43·7
s. 55·4
11 r. 41·9
s. 59
12 r. 41 Sky not clear.
s. 64·4
13 r. 41 (Teléshera.)
14 r. 43·7
s. 64·4
15 r. 46·4
s. 57·2
16 r. 50
s. 63·5
17 r. 50
s. 64·4
18 r. 48·2
s. 65·3
19 r. 46·4
s. 64·4
20 r. 55·4
s. 64·4
21 r. 54·5
s. 72·5
22 r. 45·5
23 r. 53·6
s. 71·6
24 r. 54·5
s. 72·5
25 r. 52·7
s. 73·4
26 r. 59
s. 69·8
27 No observation.
28 r. 54·5
The sky at sunrise now in general overcast.
s. 74·3
29 r. 59
s. 77
30 r. 56·3 Very cold N.E. wind.
31 r. 51·8 The cold wind continuing.
s. 60·8
1851.
Jan.
1 r. 48·2 The same cold wind; it fell about an hour after sun-rise.
2 r. 45·5
Again the same cold N.E. wind; it abated about 7 p.m.
s. 60·8
3 r. 48·2
s. 60·8
4 r. 51·8
5 r. 51·8 The sun generally overcast at sun-rise.
6 r. 59
The sky thickly clouded; light rain.
s. 66·2
7 r. 60·8
The sky thickly clouded; a few drops of rain.
s. 75·2
8 r. 60·8
s. 77
9 r. 57·2
10 r. 56·3
s. 69·8