What Thou Canst Do Thyself, Commit Not to Another.
1398. Dr. Franklin's Advice to Swimmers
"The only obstacle to improvement in this necessary and
life-preserving art is fear: and it is only by overcoming this
timidity that you can expect to become a master of the following
acquirements. It is very common for novices in the art of swimming
to make use of cork or bladders to assist in keeping the body above
water; some have utterly condemned the use of them; however, they
may be of service for supporting the body while one is learning what
is called the stroke, or that manner of drawing in and striking out
the hands and feet that is necessary to produce progressive motion.
But you will be no swimmer till you can place confidence in the
power of the water to support you; I would, therefore, advise the
acquiring that confidence in the first place; especially as I have
known several who, by a little practice, necessary for that purpose,
have insensibly acquired the stroke, taught, as it were, by nature.
The practice I mean is this: choosing a place where the water
deepens gradually, walk coolly into it till it is up to your breast;
then turn round your face to the shore, and throw an egg into the
water between you and the shore; it will sink to the bottom and be
easily seen there if the water be clear. It must lie in the water so
deep that you cannot reach to take it up but by diving for it. To
encourage yourself in order to do this, reflect that your progress
will be from deep to shallow water, and that at any time you may, by
bringing your legs under you, and standing on the bottom, raise your
head far above the water; then plunge under it with your eyes open,
which must be kept open on going under, as you cannot open the
eyelids for the weight of water above you; throwing yourself toward
the egg, and endeavouring by the action of your hands and feet
against the water to get forward, till within reach of it.
In this attempt you will find that the water buoys you up against
your inclination; that it is not so easy to sink as you imagine, and
that you cannot, but by active force, get down to the egg. Thus you
feel the power of water to support you, and learn to confide in that
power, while your endeavours to overcome it, and reach the egg,
teach you the manner of acting on the water with your feet and
hands, which action is afterwards used in swimming to support your
head higher above the water, or to go forward through it.
1399. Advice to Swimmers (2)
"I would the more earnestly press you to the trial of this method,
because I think I shall satisfy you that your body is lighter than
water, and that you might float in it a long time with your mouth
free for breathing, if you would put yourself into a proper posture,
and would be still, and forbear struggling; yet, till you have
obtained this experimental confidence in the water, I cannot depend
upon your having the necessary presence of mind to recollect the
posture, and the directions I gave you relating to it. The surprise
may put all out of your mind.
1400. Advice to Swimmers (3)
"Though the legs, arms, and head of a human body, being solid parts,
are specifically somewhat heavier than fresh water, as the trunk,
particularly the upper part, from its hollowness, is so much lighter
than water, so the whole of the body, taken altogether,
is too light
to sink wholly under water
, but some part will remain above until
the lungs become filled with water, which happens when a person, in
the fright, attempts breathing while the mouth and nostrils are
under water.
1401. Advice to Swimmers (4)
"The legs and arms are specifically lighter than salt water, and
will be supported by it, so that
a human body cannot sink in salt
water
, though the lungs were filled as above, but from the greater
specific gravity of the head. Therefore a person throwing himself on
his back in salt water, and extending his arms, may easily lie so as
to keep his mouth and nostrils free for breathing; and, by a slight
motion of his hand, may prevent turning, if he should perceive any
tendency to it.
1402. Advice to Swimmers (5)
"In fresh water if a man throw himself on his back near the surface,
he cannot long continue in that situation, but by proper action of his
hands on the water; if he use no such action, the legs and lower part
of the body will gradually sink till he come into an upright position,
in which he will continue suspended, the hollow of his breast
keeping
the head uppermost
.
1403. Advice to Swimmers (6)
"But if in this erect position the head be kept upright above the
shoulders, as when we stand on the ground, the immersion will, by the
weight of that part of the head that is out of the water, reach above
the mouth and nostrils, perhaps a little above the eyes, so that a man
cannot long remain suspended in water with his head in that position.
1404. Advice to Swimmers (7)
"The body continuing suspended as before, and upright, if the head be
leaned quite back, so that the face look upward, all the back part of
the head being under water, and its weight consequently in a great
measure supported by it,
the face will remain above water
quite free
for breathing, will rise an inch higher every inspiration, and sink as
much every expiration, but never so low as that the water may come
over the mouth.
1405. Advice to Swimmers (8)
"If therefore a person unacquainted with swimming and falling
accidentally into the water, could have presence of mind sufficient to
avoid struggling and plunging, and to let the body take this natural
position, he might continue long safe from drowning, till, perhaps,
help should come; for, as to the clothes, their additional weight when
immersed is very inconsiderable, the water supporting it; though when
he comes out of the water, he will find them very heavy indeed.
1406. Advice to Swimmers (9)
"But I would not advise any one to depend on having this presence of
mind on such an occasion, but learn fairly to swim, as I wish all men
were taught do in their youth; they would on many occasions, be the
safer for having that skill; and on many more, the happier, as free
from painful apprehensions of danger, to say nothing of the enjoyment
in so delightful and wholesome an exercise. Soldiers particularly
should, methinks, all be taught to swim; it might be of frequent use,
either in surprising an enemy or saving themselves; and if I had now
boys to educate, I should prefer those schools (other things being
equal) where an opportunity was afforded for acquiring so advantageous
an art, which, once learned, is never forgotten.
1407. Advice to Swimmers (10)
"I know by experience, that it is a great comfort to a swimmer, who
has a considerable distance to go, to turn himself sometimes on his
back, and to vary, in other respects, the means of procuring a
progressive motion.
1408. Advice to Swimmers (11)
"When he is seized with the cramp in the leg, the method of driving it
away is to give the parts affected a sudden, vigorous, and violent
shock; which he may do in the air as he swims on his back.
1409. Advice to Swimmers (12)
"During the great heats in summer, there is no danger in bathing,
however warm we may be, in rivers which have been thoroughly warmed by
the sun. But to throw one's self into cold spring water, when the body
has been heated by exercise in the sun, is an imprudence which may
prove fatal. I once knew an instance of four young men who, having
worked at harvest in the heat of the day, with a view of refreshing
themselves, plunged into a spring of cold water; two died upon the
spot, a third next morning, and the fourth recovered with great
difficulty. A copious draught of cold water, in similar circumstances,
is frequently attended with the same effect in North America.
1410. Advice to Swimmers (13)
"The exercise of swimming is of the most healthy and agreeable in the
world. After having swum for an hour or two in the evening one sleeps
coolly the whole night, even during the most ardent heat of summer.
Perhaps, the pores being cleansed, the insensible perspiration
increases, and occasions this coolness. It is certain that much
swimming is the means of stopping diarrhœa, and even of producing a
constipation. With respect to those who do not know how to swim, or
who are affected with diarrhœa at a season which does not permit them
to use that exercise, a warm bath, by cleansing and purifying the
skin, is found very salutary, and often effects a radical cure. I
speak from my own experience, frequently repeated, and that of others,
to whom I have recommended this.
1411. Advice to Swimmers (14)
"When I was a boy, I amused myself one day with flying a paper kite;
and approaching the banks of the lake, which was nearly a mile broad,
I tied the string to a stake, and the kite ascended to a very
considerable height above the pond, while I was swimming. In a little
time, being desirous of amusing myself with my kite, and enjoying at
the same time the pleasure of swimming, I returned, and loosening from
the stake the string, with the little stick which was fastened to it,
went again into the water, where I found that, lying on my back, and
holding the stick in my hand, I was drawn along the surface of the
water in a very agreeable manner. Having then engaged another boy to
carry my clothes round the pond, to a place which I pointed out to him
on the other side, I began to cross the pond with my kite, which
carried me quite over without the least fatigue, and with the greatest
pleasure imaginable. I was only obliged occasionally to halt a little
in my course, and resist its progress, when it appeared that by
following too quickly, I lowered the kite too much; by doing which
occasionally I made it rise again. I have never since that time
practised this singular mode of swimming, and I think it not
impossible to cross, in this manner, from Dover to Calais."
1412. Using Life-Belts.
Those who prefer the Aid of Belts will find it very easy and safe to
make belts upon the plan explained in
pars
.
,
; and by
gradually reducing the floating power of the belts from day to day,
they will gain confidence, and speedily acquire the art of swimming.
A Child is the Brightest Ray in the Sunshire of the Parent's Heart.
1413. Staining—General Observations
When
alabaster, marble,
and other
stones
are coloured, and the
stain is required to be deep, it should be poured on boiling hot, and
brushed equally over every part, if made with water; if with spirit,
it should be applied cold, otherwise the evaporation, being too rapid,
would leave the colouring matter on the surface, without any, or very
little, being able to penetrate. In greyish or brownish stones, the
stain will be wanting in brightness, because the natural colour
combines with the stain; therefore, if the stone be a pure colour, the
result will be a combination of the colour and stain.
In staining
bone
or
ivory
, the colours will take better before
than after polishing; and if any dark spots appear, they should be
rubbed with chalk, and the article dyed again, to produce uniformity
of shade. On removal from the boiling hot dye-bath, the bone should be
immediately plunged into cold water, to prevent cracks from the heat.
If
paper
or
parchment
is stained, a broad varnish brush should be
employed, to lay the colouring on evenly.
When the stains for
wood
are required to be very strong, it is
better to soak and
not
brush them; therefore, if for inlaying or
fine work, the wood should be previously split or sawn into proper
thicknesses; and when it is necessary to brush the wood several times
over with the stains, it should be allowed to dry between each
coating.
When it is wished to render any of the stains more durable and
beautiful, the work should be well rubbed with Dutch or common rushes
after it is coloured, and then varnished with seed-lac varnish, or if
a better appearance is desired, with three coats of the same, or
shell-lac varnish. Common work only requires frequent rubbing with
linseed oil and woollen rags. The remainder, with the exception of
glass
, will be treated in the following sections:
A Laughing Child is the Best Portrait of Happiness.
1414. Alabaster, Marble, and Stone
Alabaster, marble, and stone, may be stained of a yellow, red, green,
blue, purple, black, or any of the compound colours, by the stains
used for wood.
1415. Bone and Ivory: Black
-
Lay the article for several hours in a strong solution of nitrate
of silver, and expose to the light.
-
Boil the article for some time in a strained decoction of
logwood, and then steep it in a solution of persulphate or acetate
of iron.
-
Immerse frequently in ink, until of sufficient depth of colour.
1416. Bone and Ivory: Blue
-
Immerse for some time in a dilute solution of sulphate of
indigo—partly saturated with potash—and it will be fully stained.
-
Steep in a strong solution of sulphate of copper.
1417. Bone and Ivory: Green
-
Dip blue-stained articles for a short time in nitro-hydrochlorate
of tin, and then in a hot decoction of fustic.
-
Boil in a solution of verdigris in vinegar until the desired
colour is obtained.
1418. Bone and Ivory: Red
-
Dip the articles first in the tin mordant used in dyeing, and
then plunge into a hot decoction of Brazil wood—half a pound to a
gallon of water—or cochineal.
-
Steep in red ink until sufficiently stained.
1419. Bone and Ivory: Scarlet
Use lac dye instead of the preceding.
1420. Bone and Ivory: Violet
Dip in the tin mordant, and then immerse in a decoction of logwood.
1421. Bone and Ivory: Yellow
-
Impregnate with nitro-hydrochlorate of tin, and then digest with
heat in a strained decoction of fustic.
-
Steep for twenty-four hours in a strong solution of the neutral
chromate of potash, and then plunge for some time in a boiling
solution of acetate of lead.
-
Boil the articles in a solution of alum—a pound to half a
gallon—and then immerse for half an hour in the following
mixture:—Take half a pound of turmeric, and a quarter of a pound of
pearl-ash; boil in a gallon of water. When taken from this, the bone
must be again dipped in the alum solution.
Avoid Yourself What You Think Wrong in Your Neighbour.
1422. Horn
Horn must be treated in the same manner as bone and ivory for the
various colours given under that heading.
1423. Imitation of Tortoiseshell
First steam and then press the horn into proper shapes, and afterwards
lay the following mixture on with a small brush, in imitation of the
mottle of tortoiseshell:—Take equal parts of quicklime and litharge,
and mix with strong soap-lees; let this remain until it is thoroughly
dry, brush off, and repeat two or three times, if necessary. Such
parts as are required to be of a reddish brown should be covered with
a mixture of whiting and the stain.
1424. Iron: Black, for ships' guns, shots, &c.
To one gallon of vinegar add a quarter of a pound of iron rust, let it
stand for a week; then add a pound of dry lampblack, and
three-quarters of a pound of copperas; stir it up at intervals for a
couple of days. Lay five or six coats on the gun, &c., with a sponge,
allowing it to dry well between each. Polish with linseed oil and soft
woollen rag, and it will look like ebony.
1425. Paper and Parchment: Blue
-
Stain the material green with the verdigris stain given in No.
1433, and brush over with a solution of pearlash—two ounces to the
pint—till it becomes blue.
-
Use the blue stain for wood.
1426. Paper and Parchment: Green and Red
The same as for wood.
1427. Paper and Parchment: Orange
Brush over with a tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce of
the root in a pint of spirit of wine; let this dry, and give another
coat of pearlash solution, made by dissolving two ounces of the salt
in a quart of water.
1428. Paper and Parchment: Purple
-
Brush over with the expressed juice of ripe privet berries.
-
The same as for wood.
1429. Paper and Parchment: Yellow
-
Brush over with tincture of turmeric.
-
Add anatto or dragon's-blood to the tincture of turmeric, and
brush over as usual.
1430. Wood: Black
-
Drop a little sulphuric acid into a small quantity of water,
brush over the wood and hold to the fire; it will turn a fine black,
and take a good polish.
-
Take half a gallon of vinegar, an ounce of bruised nut galls, of
logwood chips and copperas each half a pound—boil well; add half an
ounce of the tincture of sesquichloride of iron, formerly called the
muriated tincture and brush on hot.
-
Use the stain given for ships' guns.
-
Take half a gallon of vinegar, half a pound of dry lampblack,
and three pounds of iron rust, sifted. Mix, and let stand for a
week. Lay three coats of this on hot, and then rub with linseed oil,
and you will have a fine deep black.
-
Add to the above stain an ounce of nut galls, half a pound of
log-wood chips, and a quarter of a pound of copperas; lay on three
coats, oil well, and you will have a black stain that will stand any
kind of weather, and one that is well suited for ships' combings,
&c.
-
Take a pound of logwood chips, a quarter of a pound of Brazil
wood, and boil for an hour and a half in a gallon of water. Brush
the wood several times with this decoction while hot. Make a
decoction of nut galls by simmering gently, for three or four days,
a quarter of a pound of the galls in two quarts of water; give the
wood three coats of this, and, while wet, lay on a solution of
sulphate of iron (two ounces to a quart), and when dry, oil or
varnish.
-
Give three coats with a solution of copper filings in
aquafortis, and repeatedly brush over with the logwood decoction,
until the greenness of the copper is destroyed.
-
Boil half a pound of logwood chips in two quarts of water, add
an ounce of pearlash, and apply hot with a brush. Then take two
quarts of the logwood decoction, and half an ounce of verdigris, and
the same of copperas; strain, and throw in half a pound of iron
rust. Brush the work well with this, and oil.
The Highest Happiness is to be Good and to Do Good.
1431. Wood: Blue
-
Dissolve copper filings in aquafortis, brush the wood with it,
and then go over the work with a hot solution of pearlash (two
ounces to a pint of water) till it assumes a perfectly blue colour.
-
Boil a pound of indigo, two pounds of woad, and three ounces of
alum, in a gallon of water; brush well over until thoroughly stained.
1432. Imitation of Botany Bay Wood
Boil half a pound of French Berries (the unripe berries of the
rhamnus infectorius
) in two quarts of water till of a deep yellow,
and while boiling hot give two or three coats to the work. If a deeper
colour is desired, give a coat of logwood decoction over the yellow.
When nearly dry form the grain with No. viii.
black stain
(
see
par
.
) used hot; and when dry, dust and varnish.
1433. Wood: Green
Dissolve verdigris in vinegar, and brush over with the hot solution
until of a proper colour.
1434. Wood: Mahogany Colour: Dark
-
Boil half a pound of madder and two ounces of logwood chips in a
gallon of water, and brush well over while hot; when dry, go over
the whole with pearlash solution, two drachms to the quart.
-
Put two ounces of dragon's-blood, bruised, into a quart of oil
of turpentine; let the bottle stand in a warm place, shake
frequently, and, when dissolved, steep the work in the mixture.
1435. Wood: Light Red Brown
-
Boil half a pound of madder and a quarter of a pound of fustic in
a gallon of water; brush over the work when boiling hot, until
properly stained.
-
The surface of the work being quite smooth, brush over with a
weak solution of aquafortis, half an ounce to the pint, and then
finish with the following:— Put four ounces and a half of dragon's
blood and an ounce of soda, both well bruised, to three pints of
spirits of wine; let it stand in a warm place, shake frequently,
strain, and lay on with a soft brush, repeating till of a proper
colour; polish with linseed oil or varnish.
1436. Wood: Purple
Brush the work several times with the logwood decoction used for No.
vi.
black
(
see par
.
), and when perfectly dry, give a coat of
pearlash solution—one drachm to a quart—taking care to lay it on
evenly.
1437. Wood: Red
-
Boil a pound of Brazil wood and an ounce of pearlash in a gallon
of water, and while hot brush over the work until of a proper
colour. Dissolve two ounces of alum in a quart of water, and brush
the solution over the work before it dries.
-
Take a gallon of the above stain, add two more ounces of
pearlash; use hot, and brush often with the alum solution.
-
Use a cold infusion of archil, and brush over with the pearlash
solution used for No. 1434.
1438. Imitation of Rosewood
-
Boil half a pound of logwood in three pints of water till it is
of a very dark red, add half an ounce of salt of tartar; stain the
work with the liquor while boiling hot, giving three coats; then,
with a painter's graining brush, form streaks with No. viii. black
stain (see par. 1430); let the work dry, and varnish.
-
Brush over with the logwood decoction used for No. vi. black,
three or four times; put half a pound of iron filings into two
quarts of vinegar; then with a graining brush, or cane bruised at
the end, apply the iron filing solution in the form required, and
polish with bees'-wax and turpentine when dry, or varnish.