The ground is preferably a grass plot of an oblong form; but an
ordinary lawn or expanse of even turf will answer the purpose, so long
as it is of sufficient extent for the operations of the game.
2570. Implements
The implements are balls, mallets, starting and turning pegs, croquet
clips or markers, hoops or arches.
2571. Arrangement of the Hoops
As much of the interest of this game depends upon the arrangement of
the hoops, it is essential that they should be fixed in the ground on
definite principles. In the first place, the starting peg is driven
in at one end of the ground, and the turning peg is driven in at the
other extremity. From each of these pegs a space of twelve feet
intervenes; here a hoop is fixed; another space of ten feet
intervenes, when a second hoop is fixed; a space of eight feet then
succeeds, and at this point is formed what may be termed the base, on
each side of which, at a distance of twenty feet, and succeeding each
other at intervals of ten feet, three hoops are driven in. By this
arrangement, a square is formed, the starting peg leading into its
centre, and the turning peg leading from it. Where the ground is
small, the distances may be contracted proportionally. Other
arrangements of the hoops may he made at the discretion of the
players, but the first-named plan will be found best worthy of
adoption, as it affords the most excellent opportunities for the
display of address and skill.
2572. The Game
The game consists in striking the balls from the starting peg through
the hoops to the peg at the opposite extremity. The balls are then
driven back again to the starting peg. The game may be played by any
number of persons not exceeding eight. A larger number renders the
game tedious. The best number is four. If two only play, each player
may take two balls, and when as many as eight play, there should be
two sides or sets. Each player takes a mallet, ball, and croquet clip
of the same colour or number, the clip being used to indicate the hoop
at which, in his turn, he aims. The division into sides, choice of
balls, mallets, &c., is determined by the players among themselves.
2573. Laws of Croquet
In this game, as with many other sports when first established, there
were differences of opinion on certain points of practice. In 1870,
however, at a conference of Croquet players, the following rules were
settled and adopted. They are now accepted by all players.
-
There shall be no restriction to the number, weight, size, shape,
or material of the mallets: nor as to the attitude or position of
the striker.
-
The players shall toss for choice of lead and of balls: and a
succession of games shall take the lead alternately and keep the
same balls.
-
In commencing, each ball shall be placed at one foot from the
first hoop in a direct line between the pegs; and a ball having been
struck is at once in play, and croquetable whether it shall have
made the first hoop or not.
-
A stroke is considered to have been taken if a ball is moved
perceptibly; but should the player have struck it accidentally, and
the umpire be satisfied that the stroke was accidental, the ball is
replaced and the stroke taken again.
-
If the player make a foul stroke he loses his turn and all the
points made therein, and the balls remain where they lie, at the
option of the adversary. The following are considered foul strokes:
-
To strike with the mallet another ball instead of or besides
one's own in making the stroke.
-
To spoon, that is, to push a ball without an audible knock.
-
To strike a ball twice in the same stroke.
-
To stop a ball with the foot in taking a loose Croquet.
-
To allow a ball to touch the mallet in rebounding from the
turning peg.
-
To fail to stir the passive ball in taking Croquet.
-
If a player, in striking at a ball which lies against a peg
or wire, should move it from its position by striking a peg or
wire, the ball must be replaced, and the stroke taken again.
-
A player continues to play so long as he makes a point or hits a
ball. A point consists in making a hoop or hitting the turning peg
in order.
-
The ball has made its hoop when, having passed through from the
playing side and ceased to roll, it cannot be touched by a
straight-edge placed across the wires on the side from which it was
played.
-
A player who hits a ball must take Croquet: that is, must
strike his own ball while in contact with the other, so as
perceptibly to stir both. In doing this he is _not_ allowed to place
his foot on his ball. A player, when his turn comes round, may hit
and Croquet each ball in succession, and can do this again after
each point made, but between the points can only take Croquet once
off each ball.
-
A playing ball which hits another after making a point is in
hand, and the striker can score no point till he has taken Croquet.
After hitting another, a ball may be stopped by any player; but
should it, in rolling, displace any of the other balls, such balls
must remain where they are driven.
-
When, at the commencement of a turn, two balls are found
touching, Croquet must be taken at once, without repeating the hit.
-
When a player, in his stroke, hits one or more balls, he must
take Croquet off the ball that is struck first; but if he has hit
two simultaneously, he may choose from which of them he will take
it, and in both cases a second hit is required before he can take it
from the other ball.
-
Should the ball in making its hoop strike another that lies
beyond the hoop and then pass through it, the hoop and the hit both
count; but, should any part of the ball that is hit have been lying
beneath the hoop, the Croquet must be taken, but the hoop does not
count.
-
A rover which strikes or is driven by another ball against the
winning peg is out of the game, and must be removed from the ground.
-
A player who pegs out a rover by a first hit cannot take
Croquet from it, as the ball is out of the game, and he is not
entitled to another stroke.
-
Should a player play out of his turn, or with a wrong ball, and
this be discovered by his antagonist before a second stroke in error
has been made, the turn is lost, and all points made after the
mistake, and the balls shall remain as they lay at the time the
mistake was discovered, or be replaced to the satisfaction of the
antagonist. But if he has made a second stroke before the error is
discovered, he continues his break, and the next player follows with
the ball that is next in rotation to the one with which he has
played, and is liable to lose his turn, and all points made therein,
if he plays with that which would have been the right ball if no
mistake had been made.
-
Should a player make the wrong hoop by mistake, or Croquet a
ball that he is not entitled to Croquet, and the mistake be
discovered before he has made a second stroke, he loses his turn,
and any point so made in error; but if he has made a second stroke
before the discovery, he shall be allowed to continue his break.
-
In order to prevent the occurrence of the errors noticed in
the above rules (Nos. xv. and xvi), a player is bound, upon being
appealed to, to declare truly what is his next hoop or point in
order, and is entitled to demand of his antagonist what he his
played last, and to insist upon his clip being properly placed.
-
When clips are used they should be moved by the umpire, or
with his cognisance, at the end of each turn, and their position
shall he conclusive as to the position of the balls in the game.
-
Should a ball in play be accidentally stopped by the umpire, he
places it where he considers that it would have rolled to. Should it
be stopped by a player, it will rest with the side opposed to that
player to say whether the ball shall remain where it stopped, or be
placed by the umpire, or the stroke be taken again.
-
If a ball lies within a mallet's length of the boundary, and is
not the playing ball, it must at once be put out three feet at right
angles from the boundary; but if it is the playing ball, it may, at
the discretion of the player, either be put out or played from where
it lies.
-
If it is found that the height of the boundary interferes with
the stroke, the player may, at the umpire's discretion, bring out
the ball so far as to allow of the free swing of the mallet, and in
taking a Croquet both the balls.
-
Should a player, in trying to make his hoop, knock a wire out
of the ground with his ball or mallet, the stroke shall be taken
again.
-
Any player may set upright a peg or hoop except the one next
in order; and that, however loose, awry, or slanting it may be, must
not be altered except by the umpire.
-
No ball may be moved because of its lying in a hole or on bad
ground, except by the umpire or with his permission.
-
Where there is no umpire present, permission to move a ball, or
to set up a hoop or peg or other indulgence for which an umpire
would have been appealed to, must be asked of the other side.
-
The decision of the umpire shall in all cases be final. His
duties are:
-
To move the clips, or see that they are properly moved;
-
to decide on the application of the laws;
-
to satisfy any player as to the point that is next to be
made, or the right ball to play;
-
to keep the score. But he shall not give his opinion, or
notice any error that may be made, unless appealed to by one of
the players.
-
It was also decided that the mallet should be held within
twelve inches of its head.
2574. Supplementary Laws
The following were added from the Draft Club Laws of Croquet.
-
If a ball be driven partly through its hoop from the non-playing
side, and remain so that a straight-edge placed in contact with the
hoop on the non-playing side touches the ball, the ball cannot run
its hoop at its next stroke.
-
If in taking Croquet the striker's ball go off the ground, the
striker loses the remainder of his turn; but if by the same stroke
the striker make a point or a Croquet, he continues his turn.
-
If, after a Croquet, the striker's ball, while rolling, be
touched by the striker or his partner, the stroke is foul.
2575. Difference between Old and New Laws
The chief difference (says Captain Crawley) between these and previous
laws will be found in the method of taking the Croquet. The new laws
say that the foot must
not
be placed on the player's ball; the
generally accepted practice was to take the Croquet by putting your
foot on your ball and striking it so as to send the other bill off to
a distance; or if the other ball belonged to your partner to merely
tap it in the direction desired. The foot practice is still observed
by many players; and some think with advantage.
2576. Technical Terms Used in Croquet
-
Roquet.—To strike another ball with your own.
-
Croquet.—When two balls are in contact, the player strikes
the other away, either with or without putting the foot on your own
ball, as may be previously arranged.
-
A loose Croquet is made by striking your opponent's ball
without putting your foot on your own ball. In taking "two off" it
is, however, necessary that the ball should be seen to move.
-
Wired.—A ball is in contact with a hoop, so as to prevent it
going through.
-
Bridge Ball.—One that has passed the first arch.
-
Dead Ball.—One in hand after having roqueted another.
-
To Peg.—To play for either of the pegs in regular order.
-
The Tour.—The run given to each player till he fails to
strike through a hoop.
-
To Dismiss a ball is to Croquet it to a distance.
-
Rover.—You become a Rover when you have completed the hoops
from point to point, and instead of hitting the starting-peg and
retiring, you prefer to strike your ball to any part of the ground,
croqueting friends or foes.
-
The terms side stroke, straight stroke, following ball,
over-running a bridge, running a bridge, &c., explain themselves.
2577. Bagatelle
An indoor game played on an oblong board usually from six to ten feet
long by a foot and a half to three feet in width. The bed of the table
is of slate covered with a fine green cloth; and at the upper end,
which is rounded, there are nine holes or cups, numbered from 1 to 9,
thus:
Into these holes ivory balls are driven by a leather pointed cue. The
player stands at the lower end of the table; and his object is to hole
the balls successively into the several cups. Nine balls are used,
eight white and one red; or seven white with two coloured balls. The
red is placed on a spot just in front of the 1 hole; and the game is
played according to the following:
2578. Rules
-
Any number of persons may play, whether singly or on sides.
-
Each player strings for lead, and he whose ball falls into the
highest hole begins.
-
The winner of the lead plays the nine balls successively up the
table from baulk, first striking at the red ball on the spot.
-
The red ball counts double when holed, and each white ball
scores towards game a number corresponding to that marked in the
hole (when two coloured balls are used, each counts double).
-
The red ball must be first struck; and the rest of the balls are
played up to the holes, the sum total of all the holes filled being
the striker's score.
-
Any number of rounds agreed on may be played, and the highest
aggregate total by a player or by partners wins the game.
-
A ball rebounding beyond the baulk line, or forced off the
table, is put aside and not re-used in that round.
2579. The French Game (or Sans Egal)
The French Game (or Sans Egal) is played as follows:—The player who
wins the lead takes four balls, leaving the other four for his
opponent, and placing the black ball on the spot. He plays at it from
baulk, and scores all he can. The other player then strikes up one of
his balls, and so on alternately; the maker of the highest number of
points winning. While the coloured ball is on the table, it must be
struck, and when it is holed it counts double, in addition to any
other score made by the same stroke. If either player hole his
adversary's ball he forfeits to him the number scored by the stroke.
If he fail to strike the black ball he forfeits five points. The rules
as to rebounding balls, foul strokes, &c., are the same as in the
ordinary game.
2580. Old Canon Game
Old Canon Game, sometimes played on a table without holes or pockets,
consists entirely of canons—two balls struck in succession by the
player's ball. The game, 50 or 100 up, each canon counting two points,
is played with three balls only—a white, spot-white, and black (or
red) ball. When played on the ordinary bagatelle table, the holes
filled after making a canon score to the player. One point is
forfeited for missing the white, five points for missing the red; and
all points made without a canon. The players go on alternately, the
first who scores the stipulated number winning the game.
2581. Other Games
Mississippi, Trou Madame, Cockamaroo, and other toy-games are
sometimes played on the bagatelle table; but they need no description.
To play well at any of the games, however, requires great care and
nicety. Much depends on the manner of holding and using the cue, and
the slight degree of force employed in making the stroke. Some experts
are able to fill all the holes at one essay, placing the coloured
balls in the 8 and 7 at the first stroke, and then playing direct at
the cups or at the cushion, till all the balls are holed. At the
French Game a hundred or more canons at a break is by no means unusual.
2582. Billiards
This well-known game of skill is played on a rectangular table with
three ivory balls,—white, spot-white, and red; the object being to
drive one or other of them into either of the six pockets, and to
strike one ball against the two others. The first stroke is known as a
hazard, and the second as a canon. The instrument for striking at the
ball, is a long tapering stick called a cue; and the game is scored by
hazards, canons, misses, and forfeitures. The ball struck with the
cue is known as the player's ball; the ball played as the object ball.
A ball struck into a pocket, is a winning hazard; the player's ball
falling into a pocket after contact with the white or red, is a losing
hazard. Three principal games are played on the billiard table—the
English game, or Billiards, Pyramids, and Pool.
2583. English Billiards
English Billiards,—the best of all the games,—is usually played 50
or 100 up. The points are thus reckoned—three for each red hazard,
two for each white hazard, and two for each canon. A coup—that is
running in a pocket, or off the table without striking a ball—is a
forfeiture of three points,—a miss gives one point to the adversary.
The game commences by stringing for lead and choice of balls. The red
ball is placed on the spot at the top of the table, and the first
player either strikes at it, or gives a miss. Every time the red ball
is pocketed, it is replaced on the spot. He who makes a hazard or
canon goes on playing till he fails to score. Then the other goes on,
and so they play alternately till one or other completes the required
number of points, and wins the game.
2584. Pyramids
Pyramids is a game played by two persons, or by four in sides, two
against two. Fifteen balls are placed close together in the form of a
triangle or pyramid, with the apex towards the player, thus:
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The centre of the apex ball covers the second or pyramid spot; and the
first player strikes at the mass with a white ball from baulk.
Pyramids is a game consisting entirely of winning hazards, and he who
succeeds in pocketing the greatest number of balls, wins. A single
point is scored for each winning hazard, and a forfeiture of a point
for each losing hazard; the game being usually played for a stake—so
much (say 6d.) a ball, and so much (say 1s. 6d.) for the game.
2585. Pool
A game played by two or more persons, consisting of winning hazard
only. Each player subscribes a certain stake to form a pool or gross
sum, and at starting has three chances or lives. He is then provided
with a marked or coloured ball, and the game proceeds thus:
The white ball is placed on the spot, and the red is played on to it
from baulk. If the player pocket the white he receives the price of a
life from the owner of the ball; but if he fail, the next player
(yellow) plays on the red; and so on alternately till all have played,
or till a ball is pocketed. When a ball is pocketed, the striker plays
at the ball nearest his own, and goes on playing as long as he can
score. The first player who loses his three lives can star: that is,
he can purchase as many lives as are held by the lowest number
remaining in the pool. The order of play is usually red upon white,
yellow upon red, green upon yellow, brown upon green, blue upon brown,
black upon blue, spot-white upon black, white upon spot-white; and
this order is retained so long as all the original players remain in
the game. When the number of players is reduced to two, they can, if
they possess an equality of lives, as two each, or one each, divide
the stake; or they may by agreement play out the game for the entire
pool.
2586. Single Pool
Single Pool is a game for two players, the white winning game,
originally played with two balls, for a money stake upon each life.
2587. Nearest Ball Pool
Nearest Ball Pool is the same as ordinary pool, except that the
player, after taking a life, plays upon the ball nearest to the upper
or outer side of the baulk; or, if his ball be in hand, upon the ball
nearest the baulk semi-circle.
2588. Black Pool
Black Pool is ordinary pool with the addition of a black ball, which
is placed on the centre spot. When, after pocketing the ball proper to
be played on, the black is struck into a pocket, each player pays the
price of a life to the striker.
2589. Skittle Pool
Skittle Pool is pool with three balls and twelve little skittles,
placed in order round the table. A stake is determined on, and a price
paid out of the pool for every skittle knocked over after striking a
ball. An amusing game for a party of ladies and gentlemen.
2590. Penny Pot
Penny Pot is pool without restriction as to the number of lives,
played by any number of players, who pay a penny each to the taker of
every life or winning hazard. For the scientific principles of
billiards, and the full rules of the several games played on the
billiard-table, the reader is referred to the excellent little
shilling volume, "Billiards Made Easy,"
and the more elaborate
treatise by Captain Crawley.
Billiards made Easy
. With the scientific Principles of
the Spot-stroke, and the Side-stroke, familiarly explained: By Winning
Hazard. Illustrated by practical diagrams. With a chapter on
Bagatelle: Houlston and Sons.
2591. Boss; or the Fifteen Puzzle
Apparently simple, this game is really difficult of solution, Fifteen
cubes of wood, severally marked from I to 15, are placed indifferently
in a box made to hold sixteen; thus:
two boxes, each holding 15 blocks
The puzzle consists in sliding the cubes from square to square,
without lifting them or removing them from the box, until they are
placed in their natural order. It is easy enough to move the squares
up to 12; but to get the last three into order is often a puzzle
indeed. If the figures fall in either of the following positions—13,
15, 14; 14, 13, 15; or 15, 14, 13—the problem is unsolvable; it
follows, therefore, that the last row must be either 14, 15, 13; or
15, 13, 14. If you get the cubes into either of these positions, you
can easily bring them right; but if you cannot, the only way is to
begin the game all over again. Several other ways are suggested.
Cavendish (Mr. H. Jones) thinks he solves the puzzle by turning the
box half round; but as this is only possible when the figures are on
circular pieces of wood, his solution merely cuts the knot, instead of
unravelling it.
2592. The Thirty-Four Puzzle
This is an adaptation of tho old magic square, which amused the
philosophers of old. A sketch of it appears in Albert Durer's painting
of Melancholia. Sixteen discs or squares, numbered from 1 to 16, are
placed indifferently on the table—or they may be in the fifteen box;
and the puzzle is to so arrange them as to make the sum of the figures
add up to 34, whether counted up, down, across or angularly. Here is
the solution:
two boxes, each holding 16 blocks
This is the simplest; but a more elaborate plan is to so arrange the
figures that any form of the blocks will form a square sum of 34. See
the annexed solution, which the ingenious in may still further
complicate:
one boxes, holding 16 blocks
2593. Fox and Geese
This old-fashioned game is played on a solitaire board. Seventeen
geese occupy the upper part of the board lines, with the fox in the
middle, thus:
fox and geese board
The object of the game is to confine the fox in a corner, so that he
cannot move. The geese march forward in straight lines, not on the
diagonals; and whenever a goose is on the spot next the fox, the
latter can take him, as in draughts, by jumping over to the vacant
spot beyond. The fox can move backwards, forwards, or sideways on the
straight lines; but the geese must go forward, and are not allowed to
retreat. Properly played, the geese must win; but when the number of
geese is reduced to six, it is impossible for them to confine the fox.
There are several ways of playing the game, by placing the fox and
geese in other positions, or by insisting on the fox catching all the
geese. In the latter case, the fox chooses his own starting place. The
game may also be played with eight geese and a fox.
Another way of playing this game is on an ordinary draughtboard, with
four white men for the geese, and a black king for the fox. The geese
can only move forward, but the fox moves either way. The object of the
geese is to pen up the fox so that he cannot move; the object of the
fox is to break through the line of defence. If the game be properly
played, the geese must win. Place them on the draughtboard thus: