The Project Gutenberg eBook of On The Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard.

Impress upon your mind that fresh earth is a disinfectant and keeps down all odors.

Erect a framework with partially open side entrance for a retiring-room. Use six strong forked-topped poles planted in an irregular square as uprights (Fig. 28), and across these lay slender poles, fitting the ends well into the forked tops of the uprights (Fig. 28). Half-way down from the top, place more cross poles, resting them on the crotches left on the uprights. Have these last cross poles as nearly the same distance from the ground as possible and over them hang thick branches, hooking the branches on by the stubs on their heavy ends. Also hang thickly foliaged branches on the top cross poles, using the stubs where smaller branches have been lopped off as hooks, as on the lower row (Fig. 29); then peg down the bottom ends of the hanging branches to the ground with sharpened two-pronged crotches cut from branches. The upper row of branches should overlap the under row one foot or more. Make the seat by driving three stout stakes firmly into the ground; two at the back, one in front, and on these nail three crosspieces.

Burn or bury all trash, remembering that earth and fire are your good servants, and with their assistance you can have perfect camp cleanliness, which will go a long way toward keeping away a variety of troublesome flies and make camp attractive and wholesome.

Camp Spirit

Thoughtfulness for others; kindliness; the willingness to do your share of the work, and more, too; the habit of making light of all discomforts; cheerfulness under all circumstances; and the determination never to sulk, imagine you are slighted, or find fault with people, conditions, or things. To radiate good-will, take things as they come and enjoy them, and to do your full share of entertainment and fun-making—this is the true camp spirit.

CHAPTER IV

WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL

To prepare your own camping outfit for the coming summer, to plan, to work out your lists, to select materials, and make many of the things just as you want them or even to hunt up the articles and purchase them, while all the time delightful visions of trailing and camp life dance before you, is to know the true joy of anticipation, and is great fun.

Clothing

Make your dress for the trail absolutely comfortable, not too heavy, too tight, too hot, or too cool. No part of the clothing should bind or draw.

Brown or dark gray are the best colors for the forest; avoid wearing those which frighten the timid wild life, for you want to make friends with the birds and animals, so do not wear metal buttons, buckles, or anything that shines or sparkles.

Underwear

For girl campers the light-weight, pure-woollen underwear is best, especially if you locate in the mountains, or the Canadian or Maine forests. On cold days two light-weight union garments are warmer than one of heavy weight. Wool is never clammy and cold, it absorbs perspiration and when on the trail prevents the chilly feeling often experienced when halting for a rest in the forest.

Union garments may be obtained in a variety of weights, and a one-piece suit is the only garment necessary to wear under bloomers and middy when at camp.

Leave corsets at home, they have no place in the outdoor life, and you will be freer if you discard the dress skirt when at camp and on the trail. Have your muscles free, be able to take in long, deep breaths, to move readily all portions of your body, and not be hampered in any way by ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. There must be unrestricted freedom of arms and limbs for a girl to be able to use them easily in climbing mountains or hills, scrambling over fallen trees, sliding over rocks, jumping from stone to stone, or from root to half-sunken log on wet trails of the forest.

Stockings

Select your stockings with care. Let them be of wool, strong, soft, and absolutely satisfactory when the shoe is on. The aim of the entire camp dress is to have it so comfortable and well adapted to outdoor life that you will forget it; think no more of it than a bird does of its feathers. When woollen stockings are worn, wet feet are not apt to give one cold, for the feet do not become chilled even when it is necessary to stand in the reedy edge of a mountain lake or stream. If, however, you cannot wear wool, use cotton stockings. Remember that wool often shrinks in the wash. Allow for this when purchasing goods, though it is said, on reliable authority, that if laundered with care the garments will not shrink.

When washing woollen underwear use very soapy, cool water (not icy) with addition of a little borax, or ammonia, if you have either, and do not rub soap directly on wool; it mats the little fibres and this causes the wool to shrink. For the same reason avoid rubbing the garments if possible during the cleansing process. All that is usually necessary is to squeeze and souse them well, then rinse in water of the same temperature; do not wring the things; squeeze them and hang them up to dry. Changes of temperature in the water when washing wool will cause the wool to shrink. To alternate between cold and warm, hot and lukewarm water will surely cause the clothing to grow much smaller and stiffer; keep both wash and rinse water either cold or lukewarm; cold is safer.

Allow no one to persuade you to take old clothes to camp; they will soon need mending and prove a torment.

Shoes

Wear low-heeled, high-laced shoes of stout leather and easy fit. Make them water-proof by giving the leather a good coat of hot, melted mutton tallow, completely covering the shoes and working the tallow into all crevices. Be sure to do this, as it is worse than useless to depend upon rubber overshoes when trailing; sharp stones cut, and roots, twigs, and underbrush tear the rubber, with the result that the overshoes soon fill with water and your feet swim in little lakes. Test your shoes well before taking them to camp, be perfectly satisfied that they are comfortable and well-fitting, wear them steadily for one week or more. It is very unwise to risk new shoes on the trail, and it is of the utmost importance that the feet be kept in good condition. Be kind to your feet.

Camping Dress

The most serviceable and practical dress for camping is a three-piece suit, made of a fadeless, soft quality of gray or brown material.

The middy-blouse while loose can be well-fitting, with long sleeves roomy enough to allow of pushing up above the elbow when desired. Sew two small patch pockets high on the left breast—one for your watch, the other for your compass; protect the pockets with flaps which fasten down over the open top with dress snaps. On the right breast sew one good-sized pocket.

In addition to these you will need one large pocket on both right and left side of middy, below belt line, making in all three large and two small pockets. The belt is held in place by sliding it through loops sewed on the middy, one at the back and one on each side.

Make the skirt of this suit short enough for ease and of generous width, not to draw at front, but give perfect freedom of the limbs. Have a seam pocket in each side of the front breadth, and fasten the skirt down one side from belt to hem. It can then be quickly removed and used as a cape or a wind break when occasion requires. The bloomers, well-fitting and comfortable, gathered below the knee with best quality of elastic, that it may last, can have a deep pocket sewed across the front of each leg, several inches conveniently below waist-line.

Hat

A soft, light-weight felt hat with brim sufficiently wide to shade the eyes will prove the best head covering for the trail. Don't use hatpins; your hat will cling to the head if you substitute a strip of woollen cloth in place of the inside leather band. The clinging wool prevents the hat from being readily knocked off by overhanging branches or blown off on windy days.

Check List of Apparel

Go light when off for the woods, take with you only those things which seem to be absolutely necessary; remember that you will carry your own pack and be your own laundress, so hesitate about including too many washable garments. Make out your list, then consider the matter carefully and realize that every one of the articles, even the very smallest, has a way of growing heavier and heavier and adding to the ever-increasing weight of your pack the longer you walk, so be wise, read over your list and cut it down, decide that you can do without a number of things thought at first to be indispensable.

In addition to your camp dress described, the following list forms a basis to work upon, to be added to, taken from, or substitution made according to location, climate, and nature of the country where you will pitch camp:

One extra suit of wool underwear. Wash suit as soon as changed.

One extra pair of stockings. Every morning put on a fresh pair, washing the discarded ones the same day.

One high-necked, long-sleeved, soft, woven undershirt for cold days.

One extra thin middy-blouse for hot days.

Three pocket handkerchiefs, each laundered as soon as discarded.

One kimono, soft, warm wool, buttoned down front, not eider-down (it is too bulky), color brown or dark gray.

One bathing-suit without skirt, made in one-piece, loose, belted waist with bloomers; suit opened on shoulders with strong button and buttonhole fastenings.

One warm sweater with high turned-over collar and sleeves good and long. On the trail carry your sweater by tying the sleeves around your waist, allowing the sweater to hang down at the back.

One pair of gloves, strong, pliable, easy-fitting chamois, if you feel that you need them. The bare, free hands are better.

One pair of strong, snug, well-fitting leggins matching camp dress in color, with no buttons or buckles to tangle on underbrush. The fastening can be covered by smooth outer flap.

One pair of felt slippers or thick-soled moccasins for tent.

Four extra strips of elastic for renewing those in knees of bloomers.

One large, strong, soft silk or cotton neckerchief, for protecting neck from sun, rain, and cold, also good to fold diagonally and use for arm sling or tie over hat in a hard wind; silk is best.

Two head-nets if your stay is long, one if short, to be worn in case of swarms of pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. Especially needed for protection from the midge, black-fly, etc., found in northern forests and elsewhere during the spring and through to the middle or last of July. Your net can be of fine mesh bobbinet; if you have only white, dye it black; all other colors are apt to dazzle the eyes. The best material to use is black Brussels net. Cut a strip of net long enough to fit easily around your shoulders and allow of some fulness. Take the measurement smoothly around the shoulders with a piece of tape and add to this about three-eighths of the entire length you have just measured, which will give you the length required. The width should be sufficient to allow of the net reaching from base of hat crown across over brim and down over top of shoulders, about twenty-two inches or more in all. Cut the net according to size needed; then fold the strip at centre across the width, fold again, making four even folds. Once more fold and you will have divided the net into eight equal parts. Mark the net at each fold and open it out (Fig. 30). Cut armholes in the divisions marked 2 (Fig. 30) to fit over the shoulders, sew together the two ends, bind the shoulder armholes holding the net loosely that it may not pull and strain. Sew an elastic to back corner of each armhole, hem the top of net strip and run an elastic through hem to fit snugly on base of hat crown. Gather lower edges of net; then try the net on, adjusting lower and upper gathers so that the veil will blouse a little, remembering not to let the net touch your face; if it should, the little tormentors will bite through and torture you. Sew a piece of black tape across lower edge of the front and another across lower edge of the back, fitting the tape to lie smoothly over chest and back; then bring forward the hanging pieces of elastic, adjust them comfortably under the arms, and mark length of elastic to reach around under arm and fasten with dress snaps at front corner of armhole. Cut elastic and finish net (Fig. 30).

Ornaments—Never take rings, bracelets, necklaces, or jewelry of any kind to camp; leave all such things at home, and with them ribbons, beads, and ornaments of all descriptions.

One comb, not silver-backed.

One hand-mirror to hang or stand up.

One tooth-brush in case.

One tube of tooth-paste, or its equivalent.

One nail-brush.

One cake of unscented toilet-soap.

Two cakes of laundry-soap.

One package of borax or securely corked bottle of ammonia.

One tube of cold-cream.

One baking-powder can of pure, freshly "tried out" mutton tallow, made so by boiling in pure water until melted, then allowed to cool and harden. When taken from the water, again melted and, while hot, strained through a clean cloth into the can. Good to remove pitch and balsam-gum from the hands, to use as cold-cream to soften the hands, and excellent to water-proof the shoes.

One wash-cloth, washed, aired, and sunned every day. In rainy weather, washed and dried.

Two hand towels, each washed as soon as soiled.

One bath towel, washed as soon as used.

One manicure-scissors.

One package sandpaper nail-files.

Two papers of hair-pins.

One paper of common pins, also little flat pocket pincushion well filled around edge with pins.

Two papers of large-sized safety-pins.

Check List of Personal Camp Property

One note-book and pencil for taking notes on wild birds, animals, trees, etc.

One needle-case, compact with needles and strong white and black thread, wound on cardboard reels (spools are too bulky). Scissors, thimble, and large-eyed tape-needle for running elastic through hem in bloomers and head-net, when needed.

Two papers of very large sized safety-pins of horse-blanket kind

One roll of tape, most useful in many ways.

One whistle, the loudest and shrillest to be found, worn on cord around the neck, for calling help when lost or in case of need. A short, simple system of signalling calls should be adopted.

One compass, durable and absolutely true.

One watch, inexpensive but trustworthy. Do not take your gold watch.

One package of common post-cards, with lead pencil attached. The postals to take the place of letters.

One package writing-paper and stamped envelopes, if post-cards do not meet the needs.

One pocket-knife, a big, strong one, with substantial, sharp, strong blades, for outdoor work and to use at meals.

One loaded camera, in case which has secure leather loops through which your belt can be slipped to carry camera and hold it steady, leaving the hands free and precluding danger of smashing the instrument should a misstep on mossy stone or a trip over unseen vine or root suddenly throw you down and send the camera sailing on a distance ahead. Such an accident befell a girl camper who was too sure that her precious camera would be safest if carried in her hand. Wear the camera well back that you may not fall on it should you stumble, or the camera can be carried on strap slung from the right shoulder.

Three or more rolls of extra films, the quantity depending upon your length of stay at camp and the possibilities for interesting subjects.

One fishing-rod and fishing-tackle outfit. Choose the simple and useful rather than the fancy and expensive. Select your outfit according to the particular kind of fishing you will find near camp. There is a certain different style of rod and tackle for almost every variety of fish. If fishing is not to be a prominent feature of the camp, you might take line and hooks, and wait until you reach camp to cut your fishing-pole.

One tin cup, with open handle to slide over belt. The cup will serve you with cool sparkling water, with cocoa, coffee, or tea as the case may be, and it will also be your soup bowl. Keep the inside of the cup bright and shiny. While aluminum is much lighter than other metal, it is not advisable to take to camp either cup, teaspoon, or fork of aluminum because it is such a good conductor of heat that those articles would be very apt to burn your lips if used with hot foods.

One dinner knife, if you object to using your pocket-knife.

One dinner fork, not silver.

One teaspoon, not silver.

One plate, may be of aluminum or tin, can be kept bright by scouring with soap and earth.

Two warm wool double blankets, closely woven and of good size. The U.S. Army blankets are of the best. With safety-pins blankets can be turned into sleeping-bags and hammocks.

One poncho, light in weight to wear over shoulders, spread on ground rubber side down to protect from dampness, can be used in various ways..

One pillow-bag.

One mattress-bag.

One water-proof match-safe.

One belt hatchet in case, or belt sheath small axe, for chopping wood and felling small trees, but, be very careful when using either of these tools. Before going to camp find some one who can give you proper instructions in handling one or both, and practise carefully following directions. Be very cautious and go slow until you become an expert. Outdoor books and magazines should be consulted for information, and if you do not feel absolutely confident of your ability to use the hatchet or axe after practising, do not take them with you. For the sake of others as well as yourself, you have not the right to take chances of injuring either others or yourself through inability to use safely any tool. Do not attempt to use a regular-sized axe, it is very dangerous. One guide told me that after a tenderfoot chopped a cruel gash nearly through his foot when using the guide's axe, that axe was never again loaned, but kept in a safe place and not allowed to be touched by any one except the owner.

Check List for First Aid

One hot-water bag, good for all pains and aches, and a comfort when one is chilly.

One package pure ginger pulverized or ground, to make hot ginger tea in case of chill, pains in the bowels, or when you have met with an accidental ducking or are wet through to the skin by rain. Never mind if the tea does burn, ginger always stings when helping one. Be a good sport, take your medicine.

One box of charcoal tablets for dyspepsia or indigestion.

One package bicarbonate of soda (baking-soda); good for burns, sprinkle well with soda, see that the burn is completely covered, then cover lightly with cloth, and do not disturb it for a long time.

One bottle of ammonia well corked. Tie the cork down firmly in the bottle (Fig. 32); a flannel case or raffia covering will protect the glass from breakage. Good to smell in case of faintness, but care must be taken not to hold it too near the nose, as the ammonia might injure the delicate membranes, as would also smelling-salts. Safer to move the bottle or cloth wet with ammonia slowly back and forth near the nose. Good also for insect bites.

One roll of adhesive plaster. Cut into lengths for holding covered ointment or poultice in place, the strips criss-cross over the poultice, but are not attached, the ends only are pressed on the bare skin to which they firmly adhere.

Two rolls of 2-½ or 3 inch wide surgeon bandages (not gauze) for general use where bandages are needed.

One small package of absorbent cotton.

Two mustard plasters, purchased at drug store; good for stomachache.

One package of powdered licorice to use as a laxative. Dissolve a little licorice in water and drink it. To keep the bowels open means to ward off a host of evils. It is even more essential that the inside of the body be kept clean than it is to have the outside clean. To this end make a practise of drinking a great deal of pure water; drink it before breakfast, between meals (not at meals), and before retiring. If you do this, you will probably not need other laxative, especially if you eat fruit either fresh or stewed. Fruit should form part of every day's fare. Keep your bowels open.

One tube of Carron oil, to use for burns or scalds.

One small bottle of camphor, for headaches.

One small bag of salt—good dissolved in water, 1 teaspoonful to 1 pint of water, for bathing tired or inflamed eyes, often effects a cure. Good for bathing affected spots of ivy poison, good for sore-throat gargle, also for nosebleed; snuff, then plug nose. Good for brushing teeth. For all these dissolve salt in water in proportion as given above.

One white muslin 24-inch triangular bandage, for arm sling or chest, jaw, and head bandage. A man's large-sized white handkerchief can be used; never bind broken skin with colored cloth.

One bottle of fly dope, warranted to keep off pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. All these may be kept in one-half of a linen case of pockets, your toilet articles in the other half, and the case can be opened out and hung to the side of your tent or shelter.

Check List for General Camp

Two basins, of light metal, paper or collapsible rubber. The last is easy to pack and light to carry. One basin will serve for several girls. If you camp near a body of fresh water let that be your basin; it will always be ready filled. No need then to bring water to your shelter, for a delightful dip in the river or lake every morning before breakfast will obviate all necessity, and do away with the otherwise needful hand-basin.

One reliable map of location and surrounding country for constant reference.

One water-pail, light weight, for every two or three girls. Can be canvas, aluminum, paper, rubber, or your own selection in other materials.

Six toilet-paper packages or more.

One or more tents of water-proof material.

One or more sod cloths for tent flooring.

One or more inner tents of cheesecloth for protection from mosquitoes, etc. These can be made at home or purchased with the tents at the regular camp-outfitters'. There is on the market a spray, claimed to be absolutely effective against mosquitoes, etc., and to keep both tent and camp free from pests. One quart is said to last two weeks with daily use. Cost, fifty cents per quart.

One carborundum stone for sharpening all cutting tools.

One or more lanterns. Folding candle lanterns may be purchased, but the simple ten-cent kind with lamp-chimney for protection of candle are good. They can be had at country stores in Cresco, Pa. May possibly be found at camp-outfitters'. If a glass chimney is to be used, pack most carefully. Fill the inside of the chimney with stockings, handkerchiefs, etc.; then wrap the chimney all over with other soft clothing and tie securely. Have this outside wrap very thick.

One package of one-half length candles to use in lantern.

One tin box of one or two dozen safety-matches. Tin will not catch fire from the matches.

One strong tool-bag with separate labelled pockets for different tools; each pocket with flap to fasten securely with dress snaps. In this tool-bag put assorted nails, mostly big, strong ones, screws, awl, well-sealed bottle of strong glue, ball of stout twine, a few rawhide thongs, three or four yards of soft strong rope, a pair of scissors, two spools of wire, and several yards of cheesecloth.

One rope—long for mountain-climbing.

Check List of Kitchen Utensils

Two dish-pans, one for piping-hot sudsy water for washing dishes, the other for scalding-hot rinsing water. The last pan can also be used for mixing and bread-making. Select pans strong and of light weight—canvas, aluminum, or tin—and be sure they nest or fold.

Two water-pails, fitted one within the other, both light weight

One coffee-pot, size to fit in pails, must not be too high. Cocoa can be made in the coffee-pot.

One frying-pan, for corn-dodgers, flapjacks, fried mush, eggs, etc.

One folding camp-oven, for hot biscuits, bread puddings, and many other good things relished by hungry campers.

One wash-basin, to be kept strictly for washing hands, when cooking.

One large spoon, for stirring and general use.

One kitchen-knife, suitable for cutting bread, carving meat, turning pancakes, etc.

One kitchen-fork, strong and big, but not a toasting-fork.

One Dutch oven pot, a strong seamless pot with cover, to use for baking, boiling, and stewing.

Three dish-towels, washed after every meal.

One dish mop or cloth, washed and dried after each meal; dry in sun when possible.

Four large cakes of soap.

One thick holder, for lifting pots. Hang this up in a certain place where it may always be found when needed.

One pepper and one salt shaker, small and light in weight.

One net air-bag, for meat, fish, and anything that must be kept fresh (Fig. 33) and protected from the flies. Use strong net and two or more hoops for the air-bag. With pincers you can twist the two ends of strong wire together and make the hoops of size large enough to hold the net out away from a large piece of meat. Cut the net long enough to stand above and hang below the meat. Gather the top edge tightly together and sew it fast; then sew the hoop near the top of the bag. Other hoops on either side of centre of bag and a hoop near bottom of bag, or sew only one hoop at the top and one at the bottom. Have strong draw-strings in the bottom of the bag, and fasten a pendent hook at the top to hold the meat hanging free inside of the bag. With copper wire attach a good-sized ring on top of the bag, wire it through the handle of the pendent hook and weld them together. When in use, the bag should be suspended high from the ground by means of a rope pulley run through the top ring and over the limb of a near-by tree. Similar air-bags can be obtained, if desired, from camp-outfitters.

When selecting cooking utensils for the camp, you will find those with detachable handles pack better and for that reason are desirable.

Do not forget that every check-list given may be reduced; don't think you must include all the items. For these lists give outfits for permanent as well as temporary camps. If you can manage with one towel by washing it every day, or evening, allowing it to dry during the night, one towel will be sufficient; leave the others at home. Drop from the various lists every article you can possibly dispense with and still be comfortable in camp.

If you wear the camp suit travelling from home to camp, its weight and bulk will be omitted from your camp pack, and be so much to your gain, and you will maintain a good appearance notwithstanding, for if well made and of proper fit the dress will be a suitable travelling costume.

Camp Packs

When you intend carrying your belongings and striking the trail either part or all the way to camp, the easiest method for portage is to stow the things in a regular pack and fasten the pack on your back by means of strong, long straps attached to the pack, and passed over your shoulders and under your arms.

A square of water-proof canvas makes a simple and good camp pack. Get a nine-by-nine-feet (more or less) square of cloth, and it will be found useful as shelter, fly, ground-cloth, windbreak, and in other ways after reaching camp.

What to Put in Your Pack

Open out your pack-cloth flat on the floor, and place your folded mattress-bag in the centre.

Fill the pillow-bag with your first-aid case and case of toilet articles, and if there is space for other things pack them in. Lay the pillow-bag on top of the mattress-bag, place clothing by the side and on top of the pillow-bag, being careful to keep the contents of your pack rectangular in shape and of size to fit well over your back.

A different style of pack may be a bag with square corners, all seams strongly stitched, then bound with strong tape. Cut two pieces of the water-proof cloth, one about sixteen inches wide, and the other eighteen inches; this last is for the front and allows more space. Let each piece be twenty-one inches long or longer, unite them with a strip of the cloth six inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of flaps extending free at the top to fold over from both sides across the opening; you will then have a box-like bag. Make one large flap of width to fit the top of the back, and length to cross over on front, covering the smaller flaps and fastening down on the outside of the front of the pack. All three flaps may have pockets to hold small articles.

The shoulder-straps may be either of strong government webbing which comes for the purpose, tube lamp-wick, or leather.

With this pack the blanket and poncho could be made into a thin roll and fitted around the edges of the pack, or made into a short roll and attached to top of pack.

When feasible it is a good plan to pack your smaller belongings in wall-pockets with divisions protected by flaps securely fastened over the open ends, the wall-pockets rolled, tied, and carried in the camp pack. These pockets are useful at camp; they help to keep your things where you can find them. Next best is to use small separate labelled bags for different variety of duffel, and pack them in one or two duffel tube-shaped bags, which may be bound together, constituting one pack.

From eighteen to twenty-four pounds is average weight for a girl to carry; it all depends upon strength and endurance; some girls can carry even heavier packs, while others must have lighter ones. Beware about loading yourself down too heavily. Packs grow heavier and heavier, never lighter on the trail.

Blanket-Roll Pack

Side-trips from camp for only one night's bivouac will not need a back pack; the few articles required can be carried in your blanket-roll. Spread the poncho out flat, rubber side down, then your blankets on top, and group the things you intend to take into two separate oblong groups, one on each side of the central space at one end of the blankets; push the articles in each division closely together, leaving the space between the divisions empty. Kneel in front of your blankets and begin to roll all together tightly, taking care not to allow any of the duffel to fall out. When the roll is complete, tie the centre with strong, soft string, and also each end, and make a hoop of the roll by tying together the hanging strings on the two ends. Wear the blanket-roll over left shoulder, diagonally across back and chest to rest over right hip. If you have forgotten a few items, tie the things to the bottom of the blanket-roll and let them hang like tassels.

Duffel-Bag

Articles for general use while at camp can be packed together in one or more duffel-bags; if but one bag is needed, provisions might go in the same receptacle when space and weight permit. It is much better, however, to have a separate bag for provisions.

Packing Provisions

You can make or buy separate tube bags of different heights, but all of the same diameter, and pack flour in one, corn-meal in another, and so on, having each bag labelled and all, when filled, fitted in one duffel-bag; you will find these bags a great comfort. They should be of water-proof canvas with draw-string at the top. You can purchase friction-top cans for butter, etc., of varying depth to accommodate different quantities which will fit well in the large provision bag.

A duffel-bag is usually made cylindrical in form with a disk of the cloth sewed in tight at one end, and the other end closed with draw-strings. It is well to have another cloth disk attached to one spot at the top of the bag, to cover the contents before the draw-strings are fastened.

A great variety of desirable camp packs, including duffel-bags, pack-straps, harness, and tump-lines, may be purchased at the camp-outfitter's; investigate before deciding upon home-made camp packs. Pack-baskets can also be obtained, but all the good-sized pack-baskets I have seen, while attractive in appearance, are too rigid, bulky, sharp-edged, and heavy to be of use to girl campers.

Having decided that the wilderness is the place to locate, unless you can manage to camp with very little in the way of extra packs, you will be obliged to employ a guide to assist in the carry, possibly two guides, as wilderness trails do not permit of a vehicle, or even a mule or horse, being used to help in the portage.

Should your camp be on a more accessible site, the easy portage can be taken advantage of and the problem readily solved; but the charm of the real forest camp with all its possibilities for genuine life in the wilderness more, far more, than compensates for the extra difficulties in reaching camp. Really, though, the very difficulties are but part of the sport; they give zest and add to the fun of the trail.

CHAPTER V

OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT

Camp is the place where girls enjoy most proving their powers of resourcefulness.

It is not essential that the straight shelf edge fit perfectly to the rounded tree, but if you desire to have it so, mark a semicircle on the wood of size to fit the tree and whittle it out.

Should there be no piece of box for your shelf, make the shelf of strong, slender sticks lashed securely close together on two side sticks. For cleats and braces use similar sticks described for board shelf.

When the shelf is made in this way, cover the top with birch bark or other bark to give a flat surface.

Hang your mirror on a nail in the tree at convenient distance above the shelf, and your tooth-brush on another nail. The towel may hang over the extending end of the cleat, and you can make a small bark dish for the soap. Your comb can rest on two forked-stick supports tacked on the tree, or two split-end sticks.

Rice	2	½	lbs.
Lemons		½	doz.
Erbswurst		¼	lb.
Soup tablets		¼	lb.
Baker's chocolate (slightly sweetened)		½	lb.
Maple-sugar		½	lb.
Ham	5		lbs.
Nuts	2		lbs.
Marmalade		½	jar
Preserves	1		can
Citric acid		1/8	lb.
Onions, dried	1		oz.
Cheese	1		lb.
Potatoes, fresh	14
Codfish	1		lb.
Vegetables, dried		½	lb.

Sanitation