Tunisian crochet.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in knitting.
Materials—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected, such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.
As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked on the right side.
Plain Tunisian crochet (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on, until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.
Straight plaited Tunisian stitch (fig. 445).—Worked thus: miss the first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same manner as the second row of the preceding figure.
Diagonal plaited Tunisian stitch (fig. 446).—Worked like the preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.
Open Tunisian stitch.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.
Decreasing and increasing in Tunisian crochet (fig. 447). Our illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form scallops.
You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first on the right and then on the left.
Hairpin crochet (figs. 448, 449, 450).—So called because it is worked on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme Besson, of Paris, are also used.
Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.
Materials.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton à tricoter D.M.C, and for producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C are to be taken.
Stitches.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it through, tighten the loops and so on.
These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.
Hairpin insertion (fig. 451).—Begin by making stripes with the fork, covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.
Hairpin lace (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1 plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the 2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zigzag in the middle.
1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.
2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in fig. 451.
Hairpin fringes (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as one.
The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the fringe will be.
Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.
Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of écru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.
The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots. The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them, to form two parallel lines.
If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be filled.
The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.
Fringe made with Lacet or braid (fig. 457).—This is an easy fringe to make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths, curtains etc., which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.
Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse écru twist, the light stitch in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made of the same material.
In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern, you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches. Repeat from *.
Lace made on Point Lace braid (fig. 458).—For the rounds: 1 plain on the braid, 10 chain, then coming back, 1 single on the 4th chain.
In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12 trebles *, 1 half-treble, 1 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain; 3 chain, 1 single on the braid, far enough from the 1st chain for the rounds not to overlap each other. Then 10 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain, 1 single, 1 half-treble, 4 trebles, join to the first round between the 8th and 9th trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the footing: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss a few threads of the edge of the braid, 1 treble.
Crochet guipure lace (fig. 459).—This charming little lace makes a very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made on a row of trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on a mignardise, after you have raised the picots of it by single and chain stitches.
6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6 bars of the point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid: 6 plain stitches, very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the 7th of the 9 chain, 10 chain, 1 single on the 3d of the 9 chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close to the first of the first 6 plain.
1st scallop—7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain; on the 5th chain: 6 plain; on the 8th chain: 3 plain.
2nd scallop—on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain = on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain.
3rd scallop—like the first, then repeat from *.
Lace made on Point Lace braid (fig. 460).—On the braid, work a row of trebles, 1 or 2 chain stitches apart, according to the size of the braid and on this row of trebles, make two other rows as follows:
1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the treble of the preceding row, 5 chain, 1 treble, on the same stitch to which the first treble is joined, 5 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble on the 4th treble of the row beneath.
2nd row—1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 first chain, 3 plain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches between the two trebles of the first row that come close together; 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain.
Crochet lace (fig. 461).—1st row—3 plain close together, in the braid; * 13 chain, join to the 1st plain. On each of the first 6 chain; 1 plain; = on the 7th chain: 3 plain, then on the other chain stitches: 6 plain. In the braid: 7 plain and repeat from *.
2nd row—* miss 2 plain of the first row, 5 plain to reach the 2nd stitch added in the first row, 4 plain on the 2nd added stitch, 4 plain on the next stitches. Repeat from *.
For an insertion, drop the thread after the 2nd of the 4 stitches that are to be made at the point, then put the needle into the stitch of the finished stripe, take up the thread again, draw it through the stitch and proceed to the second side of the scallop.
Crochet lace with mignardise (fig. 462).—This and all the patterns that follow, up to fig. 473, make very useful trimmings for all kinds of underclothing. Begin by raising the picots on both sides of the mignardise by: 1 plain stitch and 1 chain.
The rows of crochet work between, consist of: 1 treble on 1 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 picots of the mignardise, 1 treble between the 3rd and 4th picot.
Work the edge in two rows.
1st row—1 treble between 2 picots, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, 1 treble.
2nd row—1 treble on 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 3 trebles, 7 chain, turn back and join to the 1st of the 3 trebles, 2 chain, join them to the 2nd treble, 2 trebles on the 7 chain; keep the last loops of the last treble on the needle and join them to those of the next treble.
Lace with two rows of leaves (fig. 463).—This is one of the pleasantest crochet patterns to work that we know. The leaves are made separately and fastened into a foundation with thread, at least two numbers finer than that of which the leaves are made.
Leaf with 5 petals: 8 chain, make a ring = 2 plain on the ring = 1st petal * 11 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble on the 8th chain, 1 chain, miss the 7th chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 4th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 2 chain, 2 plain on the ring.
2nd petal: 15 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1 chain, 1 treble *. Repeat 4 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, 2 trebles on the ring.
3rd petal: 21 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble *. Repeat 7 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, miss 1, 2 trebles in the ring.
The 4th petal to be worked like the 3rd; the 5th like the 1st.
When the 5 petals are finished, make 2 plain stitches on the ring; then on the chain stitches of the 1st petal: 2 plain, 7 trebles, 2 trebles on the 10th stitch; then descending again: 7 trebles, 2 plain and 3 single on the 3 plain stitches of the ring.
On the 2nd petal work: 3 plain, 10 trebles, 2 trebles on the 14th chain, 10 trebles, 3 plain, 2 single, on the 2 trebles on the ring.
3rd petal: 2 single, 3 plain, 14 trebles, 2 trebles on the 20th chain, 14 trebles, 3 plain, a single.
The 4th petal is worked like the 2nd; the 5th like the 1st, to be followed by 1 single on the 1st of the 3 chain stitches of the ring.
For the stalk: 14 chain; miss 1, 9 plain on the 9 chain; 6 chain, miss 1, 5 plain on the 5 chain, 4 plain on the chain stitches that are still disengaged, 2 single on the ring and then fasten the thread off with a few stitches.
When you have enough leaves, join them together by a row of picots, working from left to right as follows: * take the second petal on the right side of a leaf, put the thread into the 12th stitch; make 2 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain on the stitch on which the picot was made = in all the leaves, the 3rd plain before the picot and the first after, meet in the same stitch beneath = 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 2 chain = on the 8th stitch of the 3rd petal: 1 plain, 2 plain more on the next stitches **, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 6 times from ** and finish with 2 chain.
On the 7th stitch of the 4th petal: 1 plain, 2 plain on the next stitches ***, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from ***.
On the 5th stitch of the 5th petal: 1 plain, and on the 4 next, 4 plain ****. Repeat from * to ** round each leaf, then instead of a picot, make 4 chain, join between the 1st and 2nd picot, 4 chain, close the picot. From this point the preceding series of stitches takes the place of the picot that immediately follows the sign **; proceed to ****.
Foundation for the footing of the lace, with a single row of leaves.—When all the leaves are joined together, take the finer number of cotton and fasten your thread to the last stitch of the small stalk; then make: * 2 chain, 1 plain on the 9th stitch of the 5th petal; 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the 4th petal; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch (counting from the bottom) of the 5th petal of the next leaf; 3 chain, 1 single on the last stitch of the long stalk; 3 chain, join to the 3rd chain stitch, 3 chain, draw the thread again in coming back through the 3rd of the second set of 6 chain stitches in the 1st petal; 1 single; turning back and from left to right: 1 single on the plain stitch between the chain stitches, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the last 3 chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the stalk, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch of the stalk; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch of the stalk; 7 chain, 1 plain at the top of the little stalk, then repeat from *. The network in the next rows, which may be of any width, is composed of: 6 chain stitches and, 1 plain on the loop of the last row.
For the last row but one of the network, make: 4 chain, 1 plain over each loop, and complete the lace by a row of plain stitches.
To make the leaves stand out from the foundation, use two shades of thread, white and écru, white and Jaune-Rouille 365, or white and Gris-Cendre 415.
The following is the way to join two rows of leaves together, that have previously been edged with picots.
Fasten the thread on to the little stalk, * 3 chain, 1 plain on the 8th stitch of the leaf, 2 chain, join to the middle picot of the 3rd petal of the top leaf; 2 chain, 3 plain on the 5th petal of the bottom row, 1 picot, 3 plain.
For the 2nd petal of the bottom leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.
For the 5th petal of the next leaf below: 3 plain, 4 chain, 1 single on the long stalk, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd picot of the 1st petal of the preceding leaf, 5 chain, 1 single on the 2nd picot of the 4th petal of the top leaf, 4 chain, 1 plain on the 4th single of the stalk, 3 chain, 1 single on the 7th picot of the 3rd petal of the top leaf, 3 chain, miss 1 stitch of the stalk, 1 plain on the stalk, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the top leaf, 3 chain, 1 plain on the little stalk. Repeat from *.
Three and even four rows of leaves may be joined together in this manner and make a very handsome lace, particularly suitable for church linen.
Insertion with waved braid (fig. 464).—1 plain stitch at the point of the braid, 7 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain. On the next chain stitches: 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble, 1 plain on the next point of the braid.
Repeat the same stitches on the second side, only that after the 6th chain stitch, you draw the thread through the 7th of the 1st finished row.
Little wheels, set between the crochet pyramids, and described in the chapters on filet-guipure and Irish lace, complete the insertion.
Crochet lace, made with leaf braid (fig. 465).—Introduce the thread into one of the leaves of the braid and working from right to left, make for the outer border: * 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, with 5 twists of the thread, 2 chain, 1 treble near the end of the leaf. Leave the last 2 loops of the treble on the needle **.
Take 2 leaves of the braid, fold them one upon the other: 1 treble near the stalk of these folded leaves, tighten the loops of the 2 trebles; chain ***, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain. Repeat 5 times from ***.
Proceed with 1 picot, 2 chain,—there will be 7 picots round the folded leaves—1 treble on the folded leaves and repeat from ** to *, therefore the inverse way, and begin again from *.
For the footing of the lace, 4 rows are required.
1st row—* 1 double treble close to the stalk of the leaf, 5 chain, 1 treble, at the third of the leaf, 1 double treble at the 2nd third of the leaf, 5 chain, 2 double trebles, one on the right leaf, one on the left, draw the last loops of the 2 trebles up together and repeat from *.
2nd row—On each of the little loops formed by the 5 chain of the last row: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain; 1 plain on the next loop and so on.
3rd row—1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 plain and so on.
4th row—1 plain on each loop of the last row.
Crochet lace made with leaf braid (fig. 466).—Begin with the outside edge:
1st row:—At the end of a leaf: 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 6 chain, 1 treble = at the beginning of a 2nd leaf: 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the leaf = 7 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 treble on the 4th leaf = 1 double treble joined to the 4th and 1st leaf of the next scallop = 1 treble at the end of the 1st leaf, join and draw the last loops of these 3 trebles together.
2nd row—over each treble and picot: * 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain = repeat 6 times from *.
At the indent and before the last picot: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = 1 plain before the 1st picot of the next scallop.
3rd row—1 treble, 8 chain, repeat 6 times. In the indent join the 4th of the 7 chain stitches right and left together by 1 treble.
4th row—15 single on each loop of 8 chain.
Inside junction.—Begin at the edge of the first leaf, fasten on the thread and make 10 chain and, 1 double treble at the end of the leaf, 1 triple treble, and draw up both together, 5 chain, 2 triple trebles on the leaves to the right and left = 5 chain, 2 triple trebles, one at the end and the other at the beginning of the 3rd and 4th leaf = 2 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the first trebles, 10 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the last trebles; 5 chain, 1 triple treble at the end of the 4th leaf.
Going back to the beginning: 5 chain, 1 single on the 10 chain above the picot = 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th of the first 10 chain = 12 chain, 1 plain on the loop of the last triple treble, 7 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 6 chain = 1 plain on the stalk between the 2 leaves; 6 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the leaf, 5 chain, repeat from *.
2nd row—5 chain, 1 treble on the lower loops. Distribute the chain stitches equally.
3rd row—1 plain in the braid that forms the footing of the lace, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last chain stitches, 2 chain, 1 plain in the braid, continuing in this manner to join the crochet work and the braid together.
Irish lace (fig. 467).—Begin with the semicircles in the middle of the pattern, which arch over two scallops, and cast on 117 chain. Then lay a double or threefold thread of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 2, over the chain stitches, and make one plain stitch on each; then cut the padding thread short off.
On the other side of the chain make 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, miss 7; 1 plain on each of the 2 next stitches **.
Repeat 11 times from * to **; the 11th time making only 6 chain.
2nd and 3rd row—On the upper side, over a double thread of twist: 1 plain on each stitch of the last row; cut off the padding thread = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain stitches after the first picot of the preceding row = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 4th of the next 7 chain stitches **. Repeat 11 times from * to ** and then make: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain.
On the upper side and without a padding thread: 3 plain, 1 picot, * 5 plain, 1 picot, **. Repeat 20 times from * to **. Continue with: 3 plain, 10 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the 4th of the first 7 chain of the 2nd row on the inside of the semicircle = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the previous row = 1 plain on the 1st of the 3 chain = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain as before, = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 plain = 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain, return and make on the 9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 4 more scallops like the previous one = 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain = return and make on the 9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 2 more scallops, and then a 3rd joined to the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the right by the 2 plain stitches = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the crescent = 22 scallops consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain.
9 plain on the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the left, 7 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop = make 2 bars more of the same kind = 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars like the previous ones = 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars as before = 2 plain, 7 chain, 7 plain on the next scallop = 1 bar consisting of 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain over all the scallops of the preceding row (24 scallops in all).
4th row—3 chain *, 8 trebles on the 7 chain that follow the 7 plain = turn the work = 1 single on the last treble, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 7th and 1 on the 6th of the 8 trebles, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 5th and 1 on the 4th of the 8 trebles, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and 1 on the 2nd of the 8 trebles, 3 chain, 1 single on the 1st of the 8 trebles = turn the work = ** on the 3 chain: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble, 1 plain = 1 plain between the 2 trebles below = on the 2 chain, 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble, 1 plain *** = 1 plain between the 2 trebles beneath, repeat from *** to **, therefore the reverse way.
Go on with 2 scallops consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = after the 2nd scallop: 2 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain = 8 trebles on the 7 chain over the 7 plain and finish the little flowers consisting of 4 scallops each, like the first from * to *** and from *** to ** = 2 plain to get back to the scallop = 1 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, and make a 3rd flower of 4 scallops like the 2 others = 2 single to come back to the scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = 2 more scallops like the previous ones, then make the 4th flower of 4 scallops, which must come before the 7 plain stitches of the previous row = 20 scallops consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = the last scallop is to be joined to the 1st scallop of the 1st flower, under the left point of the semicircle = 3 single along the small scallop, 3 trebles, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the scallop = 3 bars like the previous ones to be joined to the 2 next scallops = 3 similar bars between the small scallops = 1 single on the scallop between the 2 flowers and 1 single on the 2nd set of chain stitches in the scallop that precedes the 3rd flower = 1 single on the point of the 1st scallop of the 3rd flower = continue the little bars along the 2nd side until past the 4th flower = after the 4th flower make 2 bars consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop **** 7 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop ***** repeat five times from **** to *****. At the 2nd repetition make 1 bar with 1 picot more, so that you have 4 bars instead of 3. At the 5th repetition you decrease by 1 bar, so that you have 2 instead of 3.
1 plain on the point of the scallop of the flower, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 3 plain, one of which is made on the 2nd plain of the previous row, and the 2nd on the bar of chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain = 2 more similar scallops = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd plain of the previous row = join and on the 9 chain make 7 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain.
Over the 1st little flower inside the semicircles, make 1 scallop like the previous ones = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 2 plain on the 3rd point of the first flower = 2 chain, 2 plain on the 2nd point of the second flower = 6 plain on the scallop and joined to the 3rd point of the first flower = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain = 2 plain = 1 scallop like the previous ones, 2 plain on the 4th point of the small flower, 3 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain = 7 plain over the 9 chain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain.
Make 7 scallops of: 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain, after the 7th scallop make 1 chain only, which must come just before the 7th chain to the left without a picot and above the point of the semicircle.
Over the 7 chain make a flower like the first with 4 scallops = then 3 scallops, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain. Make one more flower with 4 scallops, 3 scallops like the previous ones = a third flower with 4 scallops, 2 chain, 2 plain, one of them above the point of the row beneath, 12 chain, 1 plain over the next scallop = turn the work and coming back over the row just made, make: 7 plain on the first 7 of the 12 chain, 1 plain on the point of the scallop, 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 plain on the next scallop, carry on the bars over the flowers and scallops, making 1 plain on the scallops of the flower and 2 plain on the other scallops, up to the 5 plain stitches between the 2 flowers underneath the semicircle.
After the plain stitch that joins the last bar, turn the work and make 23 scallops consisting of: 4 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 2 plain.
Cut off the thread and fasten it on above the semicircle and at the plain stitch which precedes the 7 chain without picot and make the second side like the first = having reached the middle, close to the 5 plain, turn the work = make the half round of bars and fasten off at the 4th scallop of the flower above the semicircle.
Fasten on at the point under the flowers where the work was turned and on the wrong side, and from right to left, work: 21 scallops consisting of 4 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 2 plain = then add: 4 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain, 1 plain above the point of the scallop of the small flower = turn the work: 7 plain over the 10 chain.
22 bars of 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain = after the 22nd bar, 10 chain = come back and join to the picot of the 21st bar = 2 chain, 8 trebles over the 10 chain and complete the flower as before. After the 4th scallop of the flower: 2 chain, 1 single, quite close to the 8 trebles, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next bar, 3 chain, 1 picot, join to the 2nd stitch of the 4th scallop of the flower, 3 chain, carry on the bars the same distance as on the first side.
Footing of the lace—On the chain stitches that follow the 3rd plain stitch and above the last little figure: 1 triple treble, 6 chain, join to the middle plain stitch = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, = miss 1 scallop, 1 triple treble, 6 chain, = miss 1 scallop of the figure on the left, 1 double treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, 1 triple treble, 6 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the next plain stitch. Repeat the whole, reversed, and finish off the footing with a row of plain stitches.
Edge of the lace.—Fasten on, where the semicircles join: 1 double treble on the first 3 chain stitches of the empty scallop, 5 chain, 1 double treble on the next disengaged chain stitches of the half scallop; continue the same on all the chain scallops and distribute the trebles so that there may be in all, 13 times 5 chain stitches.
Add 2 triple trebles, the last loops of them, connected by a plain stitch; the 1st triple treble on the 3 last chain stitches of the last scallop, the 2nd on the plain stitch, that follows the 1st scallop of the middle figure = 4 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch of the 2nd point. Repeat the same, reversed.
2nd row—On the first 5 chain of the last row: 5 plain = on the next 5 chain: 5 plain = on the 3 chain, leave a space: 5 plain, 12 chain, come back and join to the 8th chain stitch by a single stitch = on the scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = and so on, until you have 8 points altogether.
The plain stitches must be distributed as follows:
For the 2nd point: in the 4th space 4 plain, in the 5th space 3 plain = for the 3rd point: in the 5th space, 2 plain, in the 6th space, 5 plain = for the 4th point: in the 6th space 1 plain, in the 7th space 6 plain = for the 5th point: in the 8th space 4 plain, in the 9th space 3 plain = for the 6th point: in the 9th space 3 plain, in the 10th space 4 plain = for the 7th point: in the 11th space 7 plain = for the 8th point: in the 12th space 7 plain = 5 plain in each of the 2 remaining spaces.
Crochet lace (fig. 468).—This is always an effective pattern, in any number of thread. It is not new, however, and is probably already known to many of our readers as a pillow lace. Those who are not fond of making pillow lace, will be glad to learn how to reproduce it in crochet, as it makes a pretty trimming, both for wearing apparel and furniture. For furniture, it should be made in unbleached cotton, for articles of dress, in any of the of the finer numbers, referred to above.