Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their London office.
MARSEILLES
537
PARIS. Start from the station
of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where
purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely
trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of
the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the
H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules
César.
Maps.—For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6.
The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which here joins the Seine. Charenton, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. St. Maurice, pop. 4300, has in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the Maisons-Alfort, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some time.
Villeneuve St. George. Melun.
9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is Montgeron on the Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of Henri IV. On the other side of the river is the village of Crosne; where on the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English literature.
13¾ m. from Paris is Brunoy, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000. Inns: Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, “Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.
Fontainebleau.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
37
500
FONTAINEBLEAU
pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station;
but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour
du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front
the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon;
Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande,
is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des
Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie.
In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are
the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels
facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13
frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan
is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the
end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded
with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and
photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good
confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had
either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the
train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the
restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the
Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.
Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.
Coach Tariff.—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the forest in the shop opposite.
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 frs. for the day.
Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following prices:—
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.
A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.
A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an hour.
Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.
Fontainebleau deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval Blanc,” which court forms the main entrance. A small fee is expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not obligatory.
To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite, procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The “appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.
The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.
Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité.
The principal entrance is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his wretchedness.
As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the following abridged list should be read before entering.
The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place entered is the Chapelle de la Trinité, built by Francis I. in 1529, and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon.
Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon.
Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the Antichambre des Huissiers (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des Secretaires, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to the most charming Salle des Bains. The walls are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the Abdication Room, containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. Cabinet de Travail (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. Bedroom of Napoleon I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. Salon de Famille or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. and Henri IV., and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.
Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette.
APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). The Bedroom. Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. Salon de Musique. Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the
GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this coward.”
At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the goddess Diana.
We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not shown (see page 8). The other leads into
Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des Gardes.
LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des Tapisseries hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie. Salon de François I. Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry. Salon de Louis XIII. The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de Saint Louis. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des Gardes, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of Henri IV.), with figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the
ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes, representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.
GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the
GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the
APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and other French masters. Antechamber. Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. Salles des Officers. Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. Salon. Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. The Old Bedroom (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. Study of Pio VII.—portrait of him by David. Dressing-room—wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. New Bedroom—bedstead of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. Salon de Reception—Gobelins tapestry—furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. Waiting-room or Salle d’Attente. Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. Antechamber. 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.
GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading to the
SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.
Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin.
Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin, built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the Upper Chapel. It was ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of Henri IV., about the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.
Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.
Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the Galerie de Diane, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6).
Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by J. B. Oudry.
Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7).
The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.
From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe staircase, leads through to the Cour de la Fontaine. In the side facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left the Porte Dorée, one of the gates that opens into the Cour Ovale. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.
At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.
Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest.
Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:—
1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie—Point de vue du camp de Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle Vue—Barbison par le Bas Bréau—Gorges d’Apremont et Franchard.
2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle—Mont Ussy—Caverne d’Augas—Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet—Gorges et Rochers de la Solle—Rocher St. Germain—Bocages des Ecouettes—Fort l’Empereur—Calvaire—Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa.
3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups et Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd. Maitre.
The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau.
After Fontainebleau is Thomery. Inn: Popardin, where the famous grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and trellis-work.
Moret. Jean Sans Peur.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
42
495
MORET, pop. 2000. Inn:
Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of
fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and
Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally
of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m.
farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the
Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.
Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town. Inn: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville. Montereau has important potteries.
Sens. Thomas À Becket.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
71
466
SENS on the Yonne, pop. 12,400.
Inns: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from
north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards
up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then
the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of
the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are
spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable
walks.
The Cathedral of St. Etienne was commenced in 972, but nearly rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. Becket was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour.
Troyes.
41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop. 39,000. Hotels: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers.
Troyes: Cathedral.
Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which
produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling.
Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the
most important is the Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul,
situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on
the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful
in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the
end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these
intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th
century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three
hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising
above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the
transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave,
separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row
being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory,
both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the
roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the
windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the
western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble
statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of
the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th
cent.
Troyes: Henry V.
Salle Simard.
Before the high altar in this church Henry V. of England was affianced to the
Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th
May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown
of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the
poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in
the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the
oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar
leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the
13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of
the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In
the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few
yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
Library, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS.,
in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled
panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St.
Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the
Museum, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel,
Mignard, etc.; and the Salle
Simard, containing a valuable collection of the Models made
by Simard for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by
Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public
on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is
expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the
Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the
window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the
16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic
architecture, the church of St. Urbain, built by that Pope
towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place
where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was
that of a cobbler. A short way N. is St. Remi, 14th century,
with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St.
Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the Hotel de Ville,
built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished
in
1670. Beyond is St. Jean, 14th century. The high altar was
sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord,
forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel
“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean,
pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the
first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division
is La Madeleine, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable
for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in
1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period.
The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from
St. Jean is St. Nicolas, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To
the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue
of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.
Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.
South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by Gentil.
Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.
Troy Weight.
The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814.
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
79
458
VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne, pop. 5100. Hotel:
Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer”
spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to
its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or
84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. Hotel:
Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but
possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as
well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the
remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town,
and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to
the 13th cent.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
91
446
JOIGNY, pop. 7000. A good
resting-place. Hotels: The Poste, between the station and the
bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne,
which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town
occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St.
André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St.
Thibault, 15th cent.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
96
441
LA ROCHE, on the Canal
de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large
refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m.
southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon,
and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)
Auxerre.
12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, St. Etienne, was rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S. transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.
Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)
13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty flavour.
Cravant, pop. 1000, Inn: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)
Sermizelles. Vezelay.
37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.
Vezelay, pop. 1300. Inn: Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St. Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications, still remain. Becket. Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.
1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.
9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is Avallon, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. Hotels: Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.
Semur.
After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. 4150. Hotels: Côte d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map page 1.)
Saint Florentin.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
107½
429½
SAINT FLORENTIN,
pop. 3000. Inns: At station, H. de la Gare. In town,
H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
separates from the Chablis road.
Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces. The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W., stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund.
Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to Sens.
Tonnerre.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
123
414
TONNERRE, pop. 6000, on
the Armançon. Inns: Lion d’Or; Courriers—both near each
other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past
the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the
church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the
foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular
basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a
dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight
street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built
in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in
1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a
beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308).
To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The
arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.
Tanlay.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
127½
409½
TANLAY, pop. 1000, on the
Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive
park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520,
but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559.
The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet
by 36. In a
room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the
Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny.
A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods
of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the
political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is
portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round
the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating
with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces
is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the
abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent.
At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour
45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.
Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
136
401
ANCY-LE-FRANC,
pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built
according to the plans of Primaticcio.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
142
395
NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES, pop. 700.
Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to
Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the
environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort,
17th and 18th cents.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
151
386
MONTBARD, pop. 3000, on
the Canal de Bourgogne. Inn: Hôtel de la Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born
in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château,
a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main
street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid
out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square
house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in
the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his
manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the
dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small
column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the
tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that
monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the
parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab
over the door bears the following inscription:—
Buffon
A été inhumé dans le
Caveau de cette chapelle
Le 20 Avril 1788.
There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
160
377
LES LAUMES.
Inn: H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois,
1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the
station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900.
Inn: H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix,
whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above
the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious
sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles
from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84
acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of
Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of
portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See
page 14.)
PARIS
MARSEILLES
165
372
DARCEY, pop. 850, 2 miles
from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high.
Inn: Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a
subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for
Flavigny, 1½ mile distant,
pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old
walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th,
14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
171¼
365¾
VERREY, pop. 900.
Inns: Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the Source of
the Seine, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods,
but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village
of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec,
pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse
Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow
the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone,
where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse
Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above
the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden
enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny
infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of
the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs.
It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by
the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop.
1000. Inns: Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.
A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St.
Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
179
358
BLAIZY-BAS, situated
at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the
Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above
the sea.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
190
347
VELARS, pop. 1400. After the
preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station,
Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The
viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet
long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the
branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see
page 24.)