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Title: Travels in the Far East

Author: Ellen Mary Hayes Peck

Release date: March 31, 2008 [eBook #24971]

Language: English

Credits: E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)

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E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist,
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TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST


The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo

TRAVELS
IN
THE FAR EAST



BY
ELLEN M. H. PECK
(Mrs. James Sidney Peck)

Deco







NEW YORK
THOMAS Y. CROWELL & CO.
PUBLISHERS


Copyright 1909

By Ellen M. H. Peck



THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.


OZYMANDIAS

I MET a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed:
And on the pedestal these words appear:
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings;
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.

—Percy Bysshe Shelley



To My Daughter


FOREWORD

AS the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant recognition of a modest plan.

The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan, Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.

Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted, an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those formed by a longer residence.

In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China, Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an equivalent as regards accurate testimony.

May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."

E.M.H.P.

Milwaukee, December, 1908


CONTENTS

page
Milwaukee1
Chicago1
New York1
The Azores4
Gibraltar4
Marseilles5
Port Saïd7
Cairo9
Suez Canal34
Aden, Arabia36
Bombay37
Jeypore48
Delhi56
Agra67
Fatehpur-Sikri76
Cawnpore79
Lucknow80
Benares82
Siliguri88
Darjeeling89
Calcutta93
Burma97
Prome109
Rangoon109
Shwe Dagon111
Madras116
Tanjore118
Trichinopoly120
Madura122
Tuticorin124
Colombo124
Nuwara Eliya127
Kandy129
Anuradhapura132
Ceylon141
Batavia, Java145
Buitenzorg147
Garoet150
Djokjakarta154
Maos166
Bangkok174
Singapore201
Johore201
Hong-Kong204
Canton209
Macao216
Shanghai225
Nagasaki229
Kobe231
Onomichi232
Osaka233
Kyoto234
Nara246
Yamada248
Nagoya250
Yokohama251
Nikko252
Tokio260
A Visit to North China264
Peking273
Tientsin301
Shanhaikwan302
Mukden305
Niuchwang309
Dalny310
Port Arthur310
Chemulpo, Seoul317
Toward Yokohama326
Homeward Bound345

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
The Pyramids from the Nile, CairoFrontispiece
Meshrebeeyeah windows6
A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo11
The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women13
The Mosque of Amr17
The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaûn20
Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan24
Openwork dagobas26
Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali28
The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis33
The Suez Canal near Port Saïd36
Aden, Arabia39
Victoria Station at Bombay41
Queen's Road at Bombay43
Country scene in Bombay44
A Tower of Silence46
Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta48
Street scene in Jeypore51
A Hindu woman of Jeypore53
Interior view of Amber Palace55
General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore57
A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi59
The Pearl Mosque at Delhi59
The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi61
Jumma Musjid, Delhi61
The tomb of Emperor Humayun64
Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch66
Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi68
Gateway leading to Taj Mahal70
Taj Mahal70
Screen in Taj Mahal70
Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built70
Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort73
An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace73
The Pearl Mosque74
Akbar's tomb in Sikandra74
General view of Fatehpur-Sikri77
A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas)78
Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj81
The ghat at Cawnpore81
The Residency at Lucknow82
Bathing ghat, Benares84
Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur84
The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares86
A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range89
A Nepaulese group91
The Government House in Calcutta94
An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens96
Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay98
Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe98
The Arakan Pagoda100
One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas100
The Queen's Golden Monastery103
Karen women in Mandalay103
Burmese country house near Mandalay104
A national dance at Mandalay107
On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing109
General view of Rangoon111
Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon112
Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda112
Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon112
Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon115
The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square115
General view of Madras117
The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore119
Fort Rock, Trichinopoly121
The Golden Lily Tank, Madura123
Entrance to the Madura Temple123
Street Scene in Colombo124
General view of Nuwara Eliya129
General view of Kandy131
Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy132
Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy132
Ruins of Anuradhapura135
Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba136
The Moonstone Steps139
Mihitale Steps141
Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon143
The canal in the old city of Batavia144
Batavia, Java147
View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue149
A village scene in Garoet, Java151
The crater of Papandajang153
The ruined temple of Prambanam155
Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam155
The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple155
The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java157
The old temple at Mendoet159
Boro Boedor, in Java162
Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java162
Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery162
A public square in Djokjakarta, Java165
Designing sarongs in Batavia167
Landscape near Batavia169
Javanese vegetable sellers170
A Javanese dignitary and his attendants172
The King of Siam175
In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok180
Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple182
The Klong Canal at Bangkok185
The famous Elephants' Kraal189
Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In190
A Siamese girl193
A royal barge at Bangkok194
The collier quay at Singapore201
The Sultan's Palace at Johore202
A general view of Hong-Kong205
The public gardens in Hong-Kong205
A typical street in a Chinese city207
A five-story pagoda211
Temple of the Five Genii at Canton212
The San Paulo Façade215
The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande216
The bund at Shanghai224
Mogi Road at Nagasaki228
The main street in Kobe231
The fort and castle at Osaka232
The rapids near Kyoto235
Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto235
The Golden Pavilion237
The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa238
Kasuga Temple243
The Temple of Ise (Yamada)249
Nagoya Castle250
The way to the Temple, Ieyasu254
Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple254
A five-story pagoda257
The gate called Yomei-mon259
The Imperial Palace at Tokio261
Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio263
Gate of Chionin in Kyoto264
Ueno Park pagoda264
The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River268
Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang270
The Hankow bund272
The Great Wall at Peking274
Hata-men Gate277
Peking girls278
Llama Temple278
A Peking cart281
The Confucius Temple281
Temple of Classics281
The Inner Temple of Heaven282
Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking285
The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple286
The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City289
View from the Forbidden City289
Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace291
Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace291
Nankow Pass292
A tower of the Great Wall295
Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb295
Emperor Yunglo's tomb297
Emperor Kwangsu of China298
The Dowager Empress of China300
Gordon Hall at Tientsin303
Old gateway of Tientsin303
The Temple at Mukden306
Dalny310
Port Arthur before the siege313
Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict315
203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur—The last point to be taken317
The city wall and gate of Seoul319
A group of Koreans320
An old tomb of a high official323
A white marble pagoda in Seoul324
Street scene in Seoul326
Torii Miyajima328
Stone lanterns, Miyajima330
Islands of the Inland Sea332
Mississippi Bay335
View of Miyanoshita336
Theatre Street in Yokohama340
Mountains around Hakona343
Mount Pali, Honolulu344

TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST

MILWAUKEE, October 27th, 1907: The adieux have been said, the friends have departed, and the train is moving slowly out of the station; a profusion of flowers, tempting new books, and other gifts are visible proofs of the thoughtfulness of friends on the eve of a long journey in untried fields, and it seems as if I had lost my moorings and was drifting out on an unknown way.