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Title: Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833

Author: John Auldjo

Release date: December 10, 2008 [eBook #27484]
Most recently updated: June 25, 2020

Language: English

Credits: E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833 ***

 

E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer,
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
(http://www.pgdp.net)

 

Transcriber's note:

Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of some of these names are given at the end of the book.

 


 

 

 

JOURNAL

OF

A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,

&c. &c.

"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."

Gray's Letters.

London:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.

JOURNAL

OF A

VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,

AND

SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS,

IN THE
SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.

BY JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.

AUTHOR OF "THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC,"
"SKETCHES OF VESUVIUS," ETC.
VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON.

Drawn by Sir W. Gell

VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.]

LONDON:

LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1835.

TO

SIR WILLIAM GELL.

    Dear Sir,

On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown.

Your faithful and obedient servant,

The Author.

  Naples, April, 1835.


PREFACE.

The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.

The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.

With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.

While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.

Naples, April, 1835.


TABLE OF CONTENTS

  Page

Departure of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople

1

Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene

3

My first Night at Sea

4

Sunday on Board

5

Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew

6

Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius

7

Scylla and Charybdis. Homer

8

The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land

9

Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances

10

Man overboard. Life Buoy

11

Cerigo. Taygetus

12

Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam

13

Nauplia de Malvoisie

14

Classic Reminiscences. Argos

15

Sharks. Greek Costume

16

Character of King Otho

17

Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet

19

Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis

20

Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove

21

English Residents at Athens

22

Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses

23

Insolence of the Turks

24

Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave

25

American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus

26

Metropolis of modern Greece

27

Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm

28

Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map

30

Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus

31

Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi

32

The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus

33

Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza

34

Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet

35

Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour

36

Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles

37

Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute

38

First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers

39

The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate

40

Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul

41

Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage

42

Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships

43

Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses

44

Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet

45

Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies

46

Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers

47

The Caique. Turkish Boatmen

48

Paras. Splendid Fountain.

49

Pera. Destructive Fire.

50

Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the

51

Funeral of a Russian Soldier

52

Landing of the British Ambassador

53

Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars

54

Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes

56

Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces

57

Value of the Turkish Pipe

58

Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile

59

Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar

60

Jewellery. Broussa Silks

61

Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician

62

Lord Ponsonby's Audience

63

His Reception. Count Orloff

64

Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments

65

Cricket. Turkish Fleet

66

Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters"

67

Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries

68

Palace. Turkish Horses

69

Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek

70

The Erraba. Turkish Ladies

71

Dancing Dervishes

73

Greek Bookseller

76

Mosque of Solimanie

77

Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations

78

View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar

79

Hippodrome

80

The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia

81

Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key

82

Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp

83

Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé

84

Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana

85

Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon

87

Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments

88

Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct

89

Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks

90

Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs

91

Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story

92

College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground

93

Sultan's Visit to the Mosque

94

Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot

95

Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan

96

The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior

97

His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote

98

New Regulation Soldier

99

Palace of the British Embassy

100

Scene in the Arm Bazaar

101

George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants

102

Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper

103

Jew Brokers. Actæon

104

Humours of a Turkish Auction

105

Slave Market

106

A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves

108

Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary

109

Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman

110

Oriental Costume

111

Turks. Armenians. Greeks

112

Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character

113

Oriental Politeness. Portraits

114

Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt

115

Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses

116

Hummums

117

Eastern Story-teller

121

Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul

122

Naval Banquet

128

Seven Towers

131

Tomb of Ali Pasha

134

Russian Insolence

136

Visit to Ibrahim Pasha

137

Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman

138

Laughable Anecdote of a Turk

139

Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks

141

The Muezzin

144

Madame Mauvromati. The Plague

146

Massacre of the Greeks

147

Anecdote of the Sultan

148

Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers

151

Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks

152

Greek Lady. Elegant Costume

153

Affability of the Turkish Females

156

The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier

157

Foreign Visiters

159

Oriental Beauty

160

The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey

162

Morning Prayer. The Muezzin

163

Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart

164

Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby

165

Russian Insolence to an English Party

166

Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha

167

Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio

168

The Symplegades

169

Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth

170

Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper

171

Grand Review. Splendid Staff

172

Giant's Mountain

174

Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus

175

Prince Butera and the Sultan

177

Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince

178

Royal Country Seat

180

Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring

181

Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby

182

Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia

183

Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby

189

Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople

190

My fellow-Passengers

192

Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora

193

Greek Deputation. Anecdote

194

Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation

196

British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna

199

French Squadron. King of Greece

200

Smyrna. Excessive Heat

201

Departure for Syra

202

Accident. Island of Scio

203

Island of Tinos. Quarantine

204

Landing of the King. Ship Launch

206

Festival of St. John the Baptist

208

Syra. Bishop's Palace

209

Ladies of Mycone. Costume

210

Delos. Vulgar Tourists

211

Modern Antique

213

Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage

214

Visit to Antiparos

215

Marine Prospects. Spotico

216

Entrance to the Cavern

217

Perilous Descent

218

Melodramatic Scene

219

Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage

224

Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides

226

Splendid Transition

227

Dimensions of the Grotto

228

Terrified Frenchman. Our Return

229

A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene

231

Port of Milo

232

Warlike Mountaineers

233

Anecdote

234

Parting of the Royal Brothers

235

Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante

236

Distant View of Etna. Valetta

238

Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine

240

The Parlatorio

241

Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women

242

Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu

243

Valetta. Maltese Gazette

244

Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince

245

Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata

246

Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti

247

Temple of Hercules. Concord

248

Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon

249

Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house

250

Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage

251

Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves

252

Duchess de Berri

253

Scene on Board

254

Capri. Conclusion

256

Addenda.

List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy

257

State of the Thermometer at Constantinople

258

Note to page 24

259

JOURNAL

OF

A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,

ETC.

DEPARTURE OF THE ACTÆON.Saturday, 6th April, 1833.—Well! All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actæon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.

The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.

The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"—all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets