Title: Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833
Author: John Auldjo
Release date: December 10, 2008 [eBook #27484]
Most recently updated: June 25, 2020
Language: English
Credits: E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer,
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
(http://www.pgdp.net)
Transcriber's note:
Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French,
which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have
not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of
some of these names are given at the end of the book.
"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."
Gray's Letters.
Drawn by Sir W. Gell
VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.]
Dear Sir,
On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown.
Your faithful and obedient servant,
The Author.
Naples, April, 1835.
The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.
The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.
With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.
While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.
Naples, April, 1835.
| Page | |
Departure of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople |
1 |
Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene |
3 |
My first Night at Sea | 4 |
Sunday on Board |
5 |
Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew |
6 |
Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius | 7 |
Scylla and Charybdis. Homer | 8 |
The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land | 9 |
Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances | 10 |
Man overboard. Life Buoy | 11 |
Cerigo. Taygetus | 12 |
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam | 13 |
Nauplia de Malvoisie | 14 |
Classic Reminiscences. Argos | 15 |
Sharks. Greek Costume | 16 |
Character of King Otho | 17 |
Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet | 19 |
Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis | 20 |
Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove | 21 |
English Residents at Athens | 22 |
Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses | 23 |
Insolence of the Turks | 24 |
Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave | 25 |
American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus | 26 |
Metropolis of modern Greece | 27 |
Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm | 28 |
Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map |
30 |
Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus | 31 |
Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi | 32 |
The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus | 33 |
Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza | 34 |
Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet | 35 |
Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour | 36 |
Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles | 37 |
Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute | 38 |
First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers | 39 |
The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate | 40 |
Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul | 41 |
Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage | 42 |
Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships | 43 |
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses | 44 |
Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet | 45 |
Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies | 46 |
Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers | 47 |
The Caique. Turkish Boatmen | 48 |
Paras. Splendid Fountain. | 49 |
Pera. Destructive Fire. | 50 |
Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the | 51 |
Funeral of a Russian Soldier | 52 |
Landing of the British Ambassador | 53 |
Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars | 54 |
Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes | 56 |
Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces | 57 |
Value of the Turkish Pipe | 58 |
Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile | 59 |
Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar | 60 |
Jewellery. Broussa Silks | 61 |
Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician | 62 |
Lord Ponsonby's Audience | 63 |
His Reception. Count Orloff | 64 |
Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments | 65 |
Cricket. Turkish Fleet | 66 |
Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters" | 67 |
Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries | 68 |
Palace. Turkish Horses | 69 |
Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek | 70 |
The Erraba. Turkish Ladies | 71 |
Dancing Dervishes | 73 |
Greek Bookseller | 76 |
Mosque of Solimanie | 77 |
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations | 78 |
View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar | 79 |
Hippodrome | 80 |
The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia | 81 |
Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key | 82 |
Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp | 83 |
Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé | 84 |
Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana | 85 |
Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon | 87 |
Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments | 88 |
Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct | 89 |
Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks | 90 |
Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs | 91 |
Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story | 92 |
College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground | 93 |
Sultan's Visit to the Mosque | 94 |
Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot | 95 |
Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan | 96 |
The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior | 97 |
His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote | 98 |
New Regulation Soldier | 99 |
Palace of the British Embassy | 100 |
Scene in the Arm Bazaar | 101 |
George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants | 102 |
Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper | 103 |
Jew Brokers. Actæon | 104 |
Humours of a Turkish Auction | 105 |
Slave Market | 106 |
A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves | 108 |
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary | 109 |
Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman | 110 |
Oriental Costume | 111 |
Turks. Armenians. Greeks | 112 |
Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character | 113 |
Oriental Politeness. Portraits | 114 |
Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt | 115 |
Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses | 116 |
Hummums | 117 |
Eastern Story-teller | 121 |
Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul | 122 |
Naval Banquet | 128 |
Seven Towers | 131 |
Tomb of Ali Pasha | 134 |
Russian Insolence | 136 |
Visit to Ibrahim Pasha | 137 |
Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman | 138 |
Laughable Anecdote of a Turk | 139 |
Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks | 141 |
The Muezzin | 144 |
Madame Mauvromati. The Plague | 146 |
Massacre of the Greeks | 147 |
Anecdote of the Sultan | 148 |
Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers | 151 |
Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks | 152 |
Greek Lady. Elegant Costume | 153 |
Affability of the Turkish Females | 156 |
The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier | 157 |
Foreign Visiters | 159 |
Oriental Beauty | 160 |
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey | 162 |
Morning Prayer. The Muezzin | 163 |
Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart | 164 |
Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby | 165 |
Russian Insolence to an English Party | 166 |
Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha | 167 |
Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio | 168 |
The Symplegades | 169 |
Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth | 170 |
Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper | 171 |
Grand Review. Splendid Staff | 172 |
Giant's Mountain | 174 |
Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus | 175 |
Prince Butera and the Sultan | 177 |
Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince | 178 |
Royal Country Seat | 180 |
Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring | 181 |
Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby | 182 |
Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia | 183 |
Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby | 189 |
Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople | 190 |
My fellow-Passengers | 192 |
Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora | 193 |
Greek Deputation. Anecdote | 194 |
Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation | 196 |
British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna | 199 |
French Squadron. King of Greece | 200 |
Smyrna. Excessive Heat | 201 |
Departure for Syra | 202 |
Accident. Island of Scio | 203 |
Island of Tinos. Quarantine | 204 |
Landing of the King. Ship Launch | 206 |
Festival of St. John the Baptist | 208 |
Syra. Bishop's Palace | 209 |
Ladies of Mycone. Costume | 210 |
Delos. Vulgar Tourists | 211 |
Modern Antique | 213 |
Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage | 214 |
Visit to Antiparos | 215 |
Marine Prospects. Spotico | 216 |
Entrance to the Cavern | 217 |
Perilous Descent | 218 |
Melodramatic Scene | 219 |
Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage | 224 |
Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides | 226 |
Splendid Transition | 227 |
Dimensions of the Grotto | 228 |
Terrified Frenchman. Our Return | 229 |
A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene | 231 |
Port of Milo | 232 |
Warlike Mountaineers | 233 |
Anecdote | 234 |
Parting of the Royal Brothers | 235 |
Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante | 236 |
Distant View of Etna. Valetta | 238 |
Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine | 240 |
The Parlatorio | 241 |
Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women | 242 |
Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu | 243 |
Valetta. Maltese Gazette | 244 |
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince | 245 |
Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata | 246 |
Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti | 247 |
Temple of Hercules. Concord | 248 |
Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon | 249 |
Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house | 250 |
Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage | 251 |
Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves | 252 |
Duchess de Berri | 253 |
Scene on Board | 254 |
Capri. Conclusion | 256 |
List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy |
257 |
State of the Thermometer at Constantinople | 258 |
Note to page 24 | 259 |
DEPARTURE OF THE ACTÆON.Saturday, 6th April, 1833.—Well! All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actæon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.
The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.
The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"—all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets