The spot was well chosen for meditation, and imagination carried me back to the time when the exiled child of genius was seated here, and "gave to airy nothing a local habitation and a name."

Returning, as we passed a house occupied by a Chinaman who had supervision of the grounds, one of the party lighted his cheroot from a joss stick burning before the Chinaman's joss, and was reminded of a certain Prometheus, who in olden times was said to have filched fire from the heathen deities, but for a nobler purpose, and having been convicted of this flaming larceny, had for his punishment "the Vulture and the Rock," which fate I deprecated for my friend; although should he remain long in this climate, I could not answer for the state of his liver.

Poor fellow! little did I then think so soon to hear of his death. A few months after he was murdered in a revolt of Coolies on board a ship in which he was returning to Peru.

CHAPTER VI.

Up the Canton River again​—​Bay of Canton​—​Bocca Tigris​—​Forts at the Bogue​—​Their Construction​—​Conduct of Chinese when Attacked​—​The Feast of Lanterns​—​the Rebellion​—​Paddy Fields and Mosquitoes​—​Back to Typa​—​Pleasant Times​—​Blowing up of a Frigate!

A rebellion had broken out in the province adjoining that of Kwang-tung; and as the insurgents had made rapid advances towards the capital, our consul there thought our presence in the neighborhood might prove beneficial to American interests. It was again, "All hands up anchor," to proceed up the Canton River, and away we steered, past the towering island of Lin-tin, towards the Bocca Tigris.

Macào may be said to be situated in the Bay of Canton; for these are all islands until you pass through the "Bogue."

Bocca Tigris was the name given to the eastern channel of the entrance to the Pearl, or Canton River,—a near translation of the Chinese name Hoo-tow-mun (Tiger's Head Passage). The pilots call it Foo-mun.

There is a fort on Anunghoy Point, and two others on the western channel on the North Wang-tong island; also the office of Hoppo, Collector of Customs, where pilots are forced to show their "chops."

There are also quite a number of Chinese forts in the neighborhood of the "Bogue;" but they did not appear to be manned, although quite a number of old rusty guns were sticking through their embrasures.

Some of these forts are very extensive; that is, their walls enclose a considerable area; but they are badly constructed as places of defence, having a greater part of their interior exposed, which cannot be helped, as their walls mostly run up the sides of steep hills, in which no excavations have been made. They present, however, quite a picturesque appearance, and add greatly to the effect of this otherwise uninteresting part of the river.

Many amusing tales are told of the conduct of their defenders when the British vessels attacked them; and how, when a shell was thrown into them, the Chinamen scattered in every direction, through their ports, and every other available means of exit, exclaiming, "Ei-yah, how can make shoot two time?"

Went up again to Canton, to the Consulate, and learned there that the rebels had not advanced much farther, having stopped to plunder, whilst Seu, the Governor-General, was preparing a large force to oppose them. Found great preparations making for a festival, which my duties did not allow me to see, but which those who witnessed it described as truly magnificent. They called it the Feast of Lanterns. From what I saw have no doubt but that it must have been so at night, when the immense number of chandeliers, candelabra, lanterns, and other arrangements for making an illumination, were lighted.

There were also images as large as life stuck over the gates of different streets, and upon platforms crossing them, with paintings of movable figures strung across them, Sing-Song houses, &c. &c. If you add to this an immense multitude of fantastically-dressed Chinamen, each carrying a lighted lantern richly ornamented, the coup d'œil will be better imagined than I can describe.

The celebration was kept up three nights, and the crowd assembled was immense; so great, indeed, that those who were enabled to gratify their curiosity did so with much wear and tear of clothing, and considerable loss of buttons.

In the meanwhile the valiant Seu had started to chastise the insolent disturbers of the peace of the "Central Flowery Land;" and being determined to expedite his work, took with him a high and learned judge, to condemn the vagabonds, and doubtless executioners to dispose of them.

We remained in Whampoa Reach, awaiting the issue, amidst the delightful odors of decaying paddy fields, and lulled to rest by the harmonious music of myriads of mosquitoes.

During this grand convulsion of the Chinese empire, it was delightful to notice the regularity with which our Chinese compradore, Ayooke, supplied the ship with provisions, and how little he appeared to know or care about the matter. I thought him then a great philosopher, but changed my opinion when I learned that these affairs are of common occurrence in the Chinese empire, especially at the commencement of a new reign, and that the authorities know as well how to manage them, as police officers to put down a row in Ann Street, Boston; and even better, for they have a golden remedy, which long experience has taught them how to apply.

After remaining one month at Whampoa, and a large proportion of the crew getting on the sick-list, we were at length allowed to leave for our old anchorage in the Typa, where we learned that the puissant Sen, his generals, and his judges, had quenched the revolt, and the misguided wretches, whom he had in pity spared, were sorrowfully retracing their steps. But one thing I noticed in his extended and flowery report, that quite a number of his officers were degraded, and heavy fines imposed upon them for alleged misconduct; thus proving in China, as throughout the world, that the larger fish consume the smaller fry, and increase greatly in consequence.

Found the change of position very agreeable, the fine bracing air from the sea acting like a charm upon the invalids, and driving away those wandering minstrels, the mosquitoes. Besides, there was the daily trip on shore in the "fast boat," available to those whose duties would allow it. The pleasant walk along the "Praya," or on the Governor's Road, and the generally delightful sail off to the ship at nine o'clock, on some of those beautiful moonlight evenings, when with but a gentle breeze to waft us smoothly over the placid waters, we could recline in our commodious boat, and puffing the mild cheroot (a privilege not the less valued because it was later than the regulations permitted smoking on board), we looked upon those gentle beams, and thought kindly of those friends beneath our feet, upon whom they might fall to-morrow, "wind and weather permitting," and a sweet face would glisten upon us from the undulating wave, and "Boat a-hoy!" from the watchful quartermaster would bring us back to reality and the ship; overboard would go our magical cheroot, over the side our imaginative self, and having duly reported the important fact of our return on board, down we would dive through the steerage hatch, to conjure up again in dreams the dear face we saw in the moonlighted wave.

Our anchorage in the Typa was the same we had occupied on our first visit, and was very eligible, being protected by Typa island from the sea. Upon the point of this island nearest to us stood a fort, named after the island; and a little more than a cable's length from our moorings lay the Portuguese frigate Donna Maria Segunda, of thirty-eight guns, commanded by Captain Francisco d'Assis e Silva.

Affairs had been pursuing their usual routine, when upon the evening of the twenty-eighth of October a boat boarded us from the frigate, under charge of an officer, who brought an invitation from Captain D'Assis to join with him on the twenty-ninth in the celebration of the birthday of the King Consort of Portugal, upon which occasion it was his intention to dress his ship, and fire a national salute at meridian. Of course, an assent was given; and accordingly at eight o'clock the next morning, every thing having been previously prepared, we broke stops with the frigate, and thus bedecked, both vessels made a gallant show.

We had dressed perpendicularly, whilst she had her flags fore and aft, running up to her flying jib-boom from the water, and down to the gaff on her mizzen. The frigate had been newly painted, and looked upon this occasion exceedingly well, her neat appearance being the subject of general remark.

We lay thus, side by side, until meridian, when she fired a well-timed salute, in which we joined; and every thing remained quiet, until about twenty minutes past two, when a report was heard resembling the discharge of a whole broadside of double-shotted guns, and a shock communicated as though we had received their contents.

The water was forced through the air-ports, splashed over the spar-deck, and dashed down the hatches. The first and general impression was, that the frigate had fired into us. On rushing upon deck, nothing could be distinguished, for we were completely enveloped in a dense cloud of flame and smoke. For a minute or two nothing could be determined. At length an old quartermaster sung out, "The frigate has blown up!" I ascended the poop, and looking towards her moorings, saw all that remained of the "Donna Maria Segunda,"—a part of her stern-frame, just above water, and burning. Where once had pointed her tall spars, so proudly decked with the flags of all nations, no trace remained. She was the most complete wreck that could be imagined. The water was covered for acres with her fragments, and her masts and spars were shivered to splinters.

Our boats were instantly alongside the wreck, and took from it, and picked out of the water, ten persons in all, of whom two were Chinamen. Amongst these was the young officer who had boarded us the previous evening, with the invitation to join in the celebration,—a fine-looking man. He had been drawn from under the capstan, which had been blown aft, was horribly mutilated, and had doubtless nearly all his bones broken, besides sustaining internal injuries. He died like a hero upon our quarter-deck, without a groan.

The crew of the Donna Maria was said to have been composed of two hundred and forty souls; but there were some sick in the hospital at Macào, and a few absent on leave and duty. They had, however, some Chinese on board, not mustered as the crew, carpenters, and other artisans, and some prisoners from a French bark, the "Chili." I consider the number killed by this catastrophe may be fairly set down as two hundred!

The commandant, d'Assis, perished with his vessel. His body was found two days after, dragging astern, he having been blown through the stern port, and caught in a sail. His remains were carried to Macào, and buried with military honors, our officers assisting at the ceremony. His son, a young Aspirante, or Midshipman, was ashore at the time. A lieutenant was in charge of the "Typa Fort," and the surgeon in Macào, at their hospital. The other officers were principally on board the frigate.

Our commander, with others, had received an invitation to dine on board, but the time had been fortunately postponed.

At the precise moment of the explosion on board the "Donna Maria," we were probably as near as it would have been possible to have been in our relative moorings, lying broadside on, but a little astern of her; our starboard battery could have been brought to bear a point forward of the beam; and this very proximity was doubtless the cause of our escaping serious injury. Two of her heavy guns passed entirely over us, clearing our royal masts, and falling into the water about twenty feet on our port beam. Our main deck awning was spotted, as if a shower of blood had passed over it. Some shot, pieces of lead, fragments of spars, and the brains and entrails of the sufferers were lodged in the tops, and other parts of our ship. The gig was stove, but her keeper escaped without injury; another boat-keeper was not so fortunate, an iron bolt striking him on the knee, and maiming him for life.

A gun carriage was thrown past us into the fort, breaking through the roof, and falling directly in the place where an officer had been seated writing, but a few moments before.

After the explosion a number of smaller ones took place, and then the remains of the ill-fated frigate burned to the water's edge.

Her magazine was said to have contained eighteen thousand pounds of powder. Three hundred barrels of sixty pounds each, for which orders came out a few days later, to be stowed in the magazine in Macào, and the frigate to proceed to Lisbon.

The disaster was attributed to design. The gunner was said to have fired the magazine for revenge.

It was said that only a few days previous, he had been severely reprimanded by the Captain, for some neglect of duty, and that the Captain had pulled his beard.

Afterwards he told his messmates that he could not survive such an indignity, that he was an old man, and had not long to live, but when he died, others should die too.

This is the way the Portuguese account for the loss of the vessel and her crew.

Out of all those picked up, but one survived! Our own escape can only be attributed to the protecting hand of that Providence, without whose knowledge not even the smallest sparrow can fall to the ground unnoticed.

CHAPTER VII.

Visit Hong-Kong​—​A beautiful Morning​—​Harbor of Hong-Kong​—​Settlement of Victoria​—​Line-of-battle ship Hastings​—​Forecastle logic​—​An arrival from the Northern Seas​—​Her B. M. S. Herald​—​Salutes​—​Description of Victoria​—​Club House​—​Health of Hong-Kong​—​Death vacancies​—​Feasting and Fêtes​—​Ball​—​Pic-Nic​—​Departure from Hong-Kong.

A visit to Hong-Kong had been some time in contemplation, and accordingly on Friday afternoon, twenty-ninth of November, we unmoored, and at three o'clock on Saturday morning, weighed the remaining anchor, and drifted with the ebb towards the entrance of the Typa, but sticking fast on a mud bank, had to wait for the next tide, which luckily bore us off on the afternoon of the same day, when we got out and underway.

Upon one of the most beautiful mornings I had ever seen in this climate, Sunday, the first of December, we were approaching Hong-Kong harbor, with easy tacks, and came to anchor off the town at noon.

The harbor is a very fine one, having sufficient depth to float vessels of the largest size, which is indicated by its color, being of a beautiful blue, and forming a strong contrast to that of the Typa, and the waters around Macào, which are discolored by the debouchment of the Canton river.

It is very wide, and commodious, and completely locked by islands, making, I should think, a safe anchorage in the Tyfoong season.

Hong-Kong is also an island, and was ceded to the British by treaty with the Chinese. The settlement on it was called Victoria, but is generally known by the name of Hong-Kong; in fact, I believe you would puzzle some persons if you should call it by the former name. It extends over much ground, and a towering mountain in its rear, upon the base of which a portion of the town is built, has quite a romantic appearance.

Found in harbor Her British Majesty's line-of-battle ship Hastings, bearing the flag of Admiral Austen, and a number of merchantmen of all nations. One, which lay near us, with the Peruvian flag at her gaff, had painted upon her stern, "Iowa, of San Francisco," and I overheard a conversation between two of the men, on the subject of the apparent anomaly. A forecastleman, addressing a petty officer, inquired how she could hail from San Francisco, then belonging to the United States, and fly the Peruvian flag. "Why, look ye, you nincompoop," was the reply, "can't there be more'n one Jack Jones on the purser's books, and wherefore shouldn't there be more than one San Francisco in the chart of the world? Doesn't it stand to reason, seeing it's a saint's name, and they're all Catholics along that coast, that they should have a Saint Francisco in Peru?"

This reasoning appeared conclusive, as the subject was dropped. But afterwards I learned that she had been purchased in California, and in a few days her nation was made known, by the word Callao filling the place of that of the Golden City on her stern: although her owner appeared to regret that he had been forced to change her flag, as, I understood, he thought he could have done better in an American bottom.

Upon the afternoon of the day of our arrival, H. B. M. ship Herald came in from the North Seas, on her return, having been six years out from England. No news of Sir John Franklin. Found her officers a fine, gentlemanly set, in excellent health and spirits, and apparently glad of a chance of thawing out.

On Monday saluted the Governor, twenty-one guns, which was returned from the "Murray Battery," a field work on shore, gun for gun. Afterwards gave the Admiral a salute of thirteen guns, returned by the "Hastings" with fifteen. This appears to be a British Admiral's salute, although we, having no such rank in our service, are not allowed to give him more guns than we give to our highest naval officer, viz., a Commodore. It may be all correct and proper, considering we have no corresponding rank, but if our government would only view the matter in a proper light, and lay aside petty prejudice, it would put our navy officers upon a par with those of other nations, and by giving them a rank, if only in name, entitle them to the same honors!

What are these officers but representatives of our government abroad, and how are foreign nations to judge of us, but through the weight these officers bear? Appearances and display go a great way with semi-civilized nations!

But I tread upon ground I had intended to avoid, and must step back to a more neutral point—my narrative.

After saluting, official visits were paid to the Governor and Admiral, and I took an opportunity to view the settlement.

There is a striking difference between Macào and Victoria. Here the merchants are princes, and dwell in princely edifices; here is life in the streets, and people move about as if they had an object, and the stranger says at once, "Ah! here is civilization!"

It is true he may not witness the evidence that caused an observing traveller to make such an exclamation upon coming to a gallows; but that proof may not be wanting that human nature requires restraint in all its phases, he will see patrols of policemen with loaded clubs, and Sepoys, having a carbine, or small rifle slung across their shoulders, parading in great profusion.

Another difference will be remarked between this place and Macào, which is, whilst Macào presents its best features in approaching it from seawards, Victoria makes but little show from the water, and if a person were only to have seen it from the harbor, he would set it down as a very inconsiderable place. It is only when you land, and after walking up one of the narrow slips, you pass through a gate into the "Queen's Road," that any thing can be seen of the town. It is true, as I have before stated, that some fine houses may be noticed on the base of the mountain, but upon this road, the principal portion of the town is built, and that cannot be seen from the water, owing to the houses being built down to its edge, having their entrances from the "Road."

This avenue is wide, and well graded, having a fine carriage way and banquettes for pedestrians on either side.

The houses are mostly built of a beautiful light-colored granite, and are of an imposing style of architecture. For a distance of nearly two miles along this principal thoroughfare, you come, every few rods, upon some public or private building that would do credit to any city. There are large, commodious barracks, hospitals, ordnance storehouses, interspersed with the dwellings of merchants, all built of this solid-looking building material.

But the pride of the colony should be its club-house, which is the finest looking building in the place of its style. It is very extensive, and built of blocks of granite, with a splendid front, a façade supported by a number of large granite pillars; and its interior arrangements correspond with its external appearance.

Ascending by steps from the street, you enter, from a wide portico, which extends along the entire front, upon a large open hall, in which are entrances to different apartments—billiard rooms, writing, smoking, and general reception rooms, and the superintendent's apartments. Two wide flights of stairs bring you to the upper story, or au premiér as the French would call it.

Here are a suite of rooms, extending along the whole front, in which are newspapers from all parts of the world, materials and tables for writing, and all kinds of couches, divans, &c., for lounging. You can step from these rooms upon a magnificent balcony, corresponding with the porch below, where you can enjoy such refreshments as you may be pleased to order, al fresco if you choose.

Another large apartment is used as a restaurant, and in another place is a fine library. Upon the floor above are sleeping apartments, baths, &c., and the attic furnishes rooms for coolies and attendants.

Through the attention of our consul, we had the entrée and use of this desirable place, and never did tired traveller enjoy the friendly welcome of an inn, after a weary journey, more than I did this hall of ease. Like the dove, I had found a resting-place from the waste of waters, and loth, very loth was I to return to my home upon the deep.

With all its attractions, however, Victoria will never become a desirable place of residence, on account of its insalubrity. Macào has very much the advantage over it in this respect, as indeed in every other, where natural causes are considered; and never was the difference between races so apparent as in the position and condition of these two settlements in China.

It cannot but be sickly in Hong-Kong in the summer season, and without entering into explanations of the cause, I merely state the fact, that during the summer of 1850, more than one-third of Her Majesty's fifty-ninth regiment were cut off by diseases incident to the climate. And the remark of an officer attached to Her Majesty's service, that it was a fine place for death vacancies, has more truth than poetry in it, I trow.

We were fêted and feasted here to our heart's content. Among those who were most forward to do us honor, I must mention our own Consul, and Mr. Burd, Consul of the Swedish government. These gentlemen, who did us so much good, need hardly blush for this publicity of their deeds.

The officers of the Hastings gave a grand ball, to which our officers were invited, whilst the "Heralds" proved by their kind attentions that their cruise in the hyperborean regions of the North, had in nowise chilled the warm current of their hearts.

A pic-nic had been gotten up for the eighteenth of December, but the arrival of the mail on that day prevented many from attending, who would otherwise have been glad to have explored the island in pleasant company. As we only waited for our letters, as soon as they were received we were forced to bid a reluctant adieu to hospitable Hong-Kong.

CHAPTER VIII.

China​—​Limited opportunities​—​The Chinese nation compared with others​—​Its antiquity​—​Magnitude of territory and practicability of laws​—​Supposed origin of the Chinese​—​Fables of their early writers​—​Explanation of their exaggerations​—​Foundation of the Empire​—​Chinese traditions compared with sacred history​—​Similarity of events​—​Wise men of the East​—​Introduction of Buddhism​—​Arts and Sciences​—​The Magnetic Needle​—​Discovery of Gunpowder​—​Origin of the name​—​China​—​Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin​—​Parallel between him and Napoleon​—​Religion​—​Confucius​—​The Taouists​—​Buddhism​—​A Buddhist's idea of Heaven.

A chapter descriptive of China may not inappropriately fill up a period, during which I was ill and convalescent at Macào; although, for a person situated as I was, the attempt to describe the character of a people, covering such an extensive portion of the globe (having only had a peep at them through a few of their outermost ports, and these considerably Europeanized), is somewhat like the efforts of one to give an idea of Saint Peter's at Rome, after a single glimpse through its portals.

However, I may venture to speak of these people from what I have seen, fully aware that plenty of more potential pens, held by persons who have lived longer among them, and penetrated their country to a greater extent than I shall ever be able to do, have given their peculiarities to the public.

Another difficulty prevents a better knowledge of their forms and systems, and that is ignorance of their language, and the disposition of those with whom one can communicate to mislead and misinform the inquirer. For much as their interests may lead them to pretend to it, they really have but little respect for the "outside barbarian."

The Chinese are, not only numerically but comparatively, a great people, and their government (the oldest now known) a marvel and a wonder. As a nation, they have consistently carried on their system, whilst other congregations of people, arising successively upon the sea of Time, have spent their force and dashed their sparkling particles upon the shores of Oblivion. They, like the ocean, though occasionally vexed by storms and convulsions, still cover the expanse allotted to them.

The Egyptian, who held the Jew captive, became himself a slave. The "people of God," who broke through and displaced the nations of the plain, vainly opposing their passage to the promised land, themselves at last dispersed, sought refuge throughout the world; when the "Holy City" Jerusalem became in turn a prey to the Roman. And Rome, the mistress of the world! Rome, too, was blotted from the list of nations.

An empire, which, extending from ninety-eight to one hundred and twenty-three degrees of east longitude, and eighteen to forty-two north latitude; bounded on the north by Russia and Siberia, on the east by the great Pacific Ocean; south by the islands (many of them independent powers) which fill the China Sea, and disconnect it from the Indian Ocean; and westward by the independent Tartar nations, covering with its dependent provinces an area of five millions of square miles, of which only about one-fourth is included within the geographical limits of China proper, governs, at the present time, a population of four hundred millions of souls (a proportion of one-third of the estimated inhabitants of the globe), with a code of laws which has been handed down from the earliest ages of which we have a knowledge.

Situated on a continent, supposed to have been selected by the Creator as the spot on which to place the first of the human race; upon which, as is told in holy writ, at the Divine command, light first burst upon the world, it is singular that this part of Asia should so long have remained in darkness, and that even now conjecture loses itself in searching for the origin of this peculiar people.

If we take the first book of the Pentateuch for our guide, we must come to the conclusion, that in the confusion of tongues at the building of Babel, when the Lord said, as is described in the eleventh chapter of that book, "Let us go down and there confound their language, so that they may not understand one another's speech;" "and from thence the Lord did scatter them abroad upon the face of the earth;" that this nation formed a portion of those presumptuous builders, who, in their migrations, settled down upon the banks of the Yellow River, and there multiplying, gradually peopled this vast surface.

Their early traditions, indeed, appear to extend beyond the period of the flood, and from these the "dark idolater of chance," who would rejoice to prove that "Book of Books" a splendid fable, draws his deductions. But how he fails. The learned men of China, those held in the greatest repute amongst a people where such a reputation is not easily obtained, themselves admit, that the history of their empire in its infancy, is, for the most part, apocryphal, and that the myths of these early writers are only to be considered as such, and are not to affect its chronology.

Indeed, the character of the language, when it refers to superior powers, has such a tendency to exaggeration, as to afford great facilities to those who would construe it to suit this particular purpose.[1]

The Chinese historians speak of their Celestial Emperor, who reigned forty-five thousand years! They also name a Terrestrial Emperor, whose reign extended eighteen thousand years! And they had, in addition, a Human Emperor, who occupied the throne for the same period, in succession. There is then their fabulous period, which commences with the creation of man, when Pwan-Koo (First Man) was produced. After which the Celestial Emperor, Teen-Hwang-She, "Imperial Heaven," settled the years, taking eighteen thousand years to perform this task. Succeeded by Te-Hwang-She, "Royal Earth,"—who is said to have devoted the same period to fix the months. After Royal Earth comes Jin-Hwang-She,—"Sovereign Man,"—who divided the land, and was forty-five thousand years about it.

Following the string of their traditions, we come down to two thousand three hundred and fifty-six years before Christ, when was founded the first dynasty,—that of Te-yaou,—according to their chronology, Hea being Emperor, or Chief, as De Guignes rationally supposes. This is about the time of the dispersion of the human family, and, I think, the proper date for the birth of this nation. Let that be as it may, there is a great similarity between their traditions and our sacred record. Their first man was produced by superior power, and was placed over the inferior animals.

In the reign of Te-yaou there was an account of a great flood. Shortly after, wine was discovered, and its intoxicating effects found out in the reign of Fohi, who answers the description of Noah. Then came a prince noted for his fondness for hunting, who was contemporary with Nimrod. And there was a seven years' drought, like that described in Genesis, ch. xli.

Another singular coincidence in their chronology, which I may be allowed to refer to before dismissing this part of the subject, is the fact set down by one of their historians, that in the fifty-fifth year of the forty-fifth cycle, the Emperor Ming-te, in about the tenth year of his reign, sent messengers to look for "the holy man of the West." Now this period corresponds with the commencement of the Christian era: and allowing for discrepancies unavoidable in such a calculation, could it not have been possible that a faint glimmering of the "Star of Bethlehem" had crossed this monarch's vision, and that, but for their dilatory footsteps, these ambassadors of the Chinese Emperor might have knelt by the side of those other "wise men of the East," who were guided by its beams to the cradle of the infant Saviour? Certain it is, that Buddhism was introduced into China about that time, and that this ruler felt the need of a holy man, as if by inspiration!

The Chinese appear rapidly to have progressed in the arts, and to have been foremost in all those inventions, which in their application have conduced so much to the amelioration and welfare of the human race. Eleven hundred and eight years before we commence to count our era (B. C. 1108,) the unerring magnet that points so steadily to the pole, was discovered by this ingenious people; and who may say what other progress may have been made in science and literature up to B. C. 220, when the cruel and ambitious Che-Hwang-te, who, having finished the Great Wall, and wishing to date the foundation of his empire from his reign, collected and burned all such records as he could obtain, and destroyed by a cruel death the wise men within his dominions.[2]

Since then, at a very early part of the Christian era, they are known to have made a representative of money in the shape of paper,[3] and a stamp duty was imposed upon the sale of lands (A. D. 369). Shortly after, learning became much cherished; literary men rose to dignities and honor, and colleges were endowed in different parts of the empire.

Types had been invented some time in the early part of the ninth century,[4] and the art of book-binding was known as early as A. D. 750.[5] The application of Gunpowder as a projectile was made in 1225; and the invention of the Loom is dated a few years later.

The name, China, is derived from 'Tsin; and it became known by this name to the other nations of the world through the ambition of Che-Hwang-te, before mentioned, who assumed the title of King of 'Tsin; and who, if he was cruel, appears to have been also able and talented. He not only enlarged and extended the empire, but what was gained to it he consolidated and strengthened. The Great Wall was not the only monument of his reign. Splendid roads afforded facilities for trade, which he greatly encouraged. Overflown lands were redeemed, and stagnant and unwholesome marshes became, by the magic of his mind, fertile and healthy plains. His capital was enlarged and beautified, and employment given by his great works to thousands who else had starved. As he was the greatest, so was he the last of his dynasty; for it ended in the death of his son, but a short time after his own demise, and a new dynasty,—that of Han,—was erected upon its ruins; thus destroying plans for the furtherance of which much blood had been shed.

There is a strong parallel between the life and fate of this monarch and that of the Emperor Napoleon. Both of humble origin,[6] each made himself a NAME, and from each a name descended to his country. Under the influence of that insanity of great minds,—Ambition,—each filled the world with his reflected glory, and each failed in his dearest and most cherished wish, the perpetuation of his name through his offspring. Much good did either do, but in the prosecution of the plans of each, much innocent blood was spilled. They both were great! Was either good?

The name of Kathay, or Cathay, was applied to this country by ancient writers, among whom was Marco Polo, a Venetian, who was about the first who penetrated its boundaries. I have assumed it, therefore, as a title, as much from its antiquity as for its euphony.

When one would speak of the religious institutions of China, he is indeed in the position of the person named in the commencement of this chapter. There appears to be three systems of religions, viz., that of Confucius, the system of Laou-tze, and that of Buddha. But when you attempt to find out his belief, a Chinaman is very apt to confound you with a part of each doctrine, and it is only by much sifting that you can come at his real sentiments. The superior men of China affect the doctrines of the two first-named philosophers, whilst the dark and ambiguous creed of Buddha obtains with the lower classes.

The system of Confucius is well known to the general reader. It is an excellent code of morals. He advocates a control over the passions, and a proper management of the affections, and comes as near as he can to the rule laid down in the New Testament, "to do to others, as we would have others do unto us." His virtues are benevolence, righteousness, politeness, (!) wisdom and truth. Filial piety is inculcated as the first and primary duty. In fact, he considers it the foundation of all; and teaches that ancestors are to be worshipped after death, and their slightest command obeyed throughout life. He advocates subjection to superiors, and contentment with our lot, but appears to have no idea of retribution beyond this life; and although in his works the existence of a superior power is admitted, and he even says, in one instance, "Imperial Heaven has no kindred to serve, and will only assist Virtue," yet a favorite maxim of his, "Respect the gods, but keep them at a distance," proves that he considered the superior influences as having but little affinity with man.

The religion of Laou-tze comes next for our consideration. Its followers are called Taouists, from the word Taou,—Reason,—the active principle,—eternal reason. Its founder lived about the same time as Confucius, who is said to have had an interview with him. Confucius describes Laou-tze as resembling the dragon, and received from him a lecture, in which he accuses him of worldly-mindedness and vanity, and concludes by telling him to make the best of it he can. He is called the "Venerable Philosopher," and is said to have appeared thrice upon earth; in one instance as Lavu-Tan, when he honored Confucius with a visit; another time as Laou-Keun, "The venerable Prince."

He has left some good maxims, but his religion is tinged with error, and is filled with superstition. I have hardly time, and it would be scarcely worth while, to describe the peculiar tenets he inculcates; but he allows extensive powers to evil and malignant spirits, and the priests make great use of their supposed influence. The belief that ghosts will return to haunt and disturb the places in which the spirit has left the body, causes many a poor believer of this doctrine to be cast out, and deserted by its disciples in the agonies of death!

The doctrines of Buddha, from their prevalence in India, are generally known to the reading public. Buddhism is the basest kind of idolatry, and its rites are debasing and revolting. The worshipper is to infuse himself into Buddha by a constant repetition of his name, and continually thinking of him.

The Buddhists sacrifice to their ancestors, and feed the hungry ghosts. They also furnish them with clothing, and other necessaries, by shaping the article required from paper, and destroying it by fire. In this manner houses, and household utensils, money, and even slaves, are remitted to such ghosts as are thought to need them.

I have only space within the limits assigned to this chapter to give a description of heaven, copied from a Buddhistic work, before I leave the subject to continue the incidents of the cruise.

"The land of Heaven—Buddha's—is perfect gold. Its gardens and palaces are adorned with gems. They are encircled with rows of trees, and borders of net-work. There are lovely birds, of sparkling plumage and exquisite notes. The great god O-lo-han; the goddess of Mercy; the unnumbered Buddhas; the host of demigods, and the sages of heaven and earth, will all be assembled on that sacred spot. But in that sacred kingdom there are no women; (!) for the women who will live in that country are first changed into men. The inhabitants are produced from the Lotus flower, and have pure and fragrant bodies, fair and well-formed countenances, with hearts full of wisdom, and free from vexation. They are without pain or sickness, and never become old. This is the Paradise of the West; and the way to obtain it the most simple imaginable, depending on one sentence, O-me-to-fuh. Amida Buddha!"

CHAPTER IX.

Christmas and the New Year in Macào​—​Removal of remains of Da Cunha​—​The Dead give place to the Quick​—​Chinese manner of Fishing​—​A new principle in Hydraulics​—​Inspection of Macào Militia​—​An ancient Cemetery​—​Arrival of the new Governor, Cardoza​—​Under way for Manilla​—​Fetch up at Hong-Kong​—​Another Start​—​Island of Luconia​—​Bay of Manilla​—​Earthquake​—​Discovery and Settlement of the Philippines​—​Description of Manilla​—​The Calzada​—​A puppet-show.

Christmas was passed by me a valetudinarian at Macào, the ship having left me there, in hospital, on her passage from Hong-Kong to Whampoa.

On Christmas eve I visited the different churches, all Roman Catholic of course. They were brilliantly illuminated, and filled principally with females, who knelt upon the bare floors whilst services, suitable for the occasion, were performed. All the churches were opened, and in that of San Augustinho heard some pretty good singing by boys. The old year was allowed to pass out and the new year come in without much eclât at Macào, indeed they are a dull set—the Macànese, and if the Chinese had any courage they could soon dislodge them.

Upon the 2d of January the removal of the remains of ex-Governor Da Cunha, from the government house to the church of San Francisco, took place. The corpse was accompanied by the troops and clergy; and the dead Governor vacated in favor of a living one soon expected from Lisbon.

In my walks outside of the town, along the beach, I noticed some Chinamen fishing: their net was very extensive and staked down on the beach, to its sides were attached ropes which led to a temporary shed upon a rock, where they were fastened to an axle having treadles, which a Chinaman, by applying his feet, made revolve, and by this means elevated and depressed the net at pleasure. Saw also a new principle in hydraulics, the object to which it was applied being to fill a sluice to irrigate a vegetable garden from a reservoir, and the modus operandi was this: two Chinamen, standing vis-à-vis, held the ends of two ropes, each fastened to the upper and lower parts of a bucket, by slackening which they dipped the bucket into a well, and then by hauling in tautened it, and communicating a swinging motion to the bucket by the same process, discharged its contents into the drain.

Witnessed an inspection drill of the Macào Militia. They were out in considerable numbers, and were clothed in a neat dark green uniform, but did not appear very perfect in the manual. It struck me that these youths did not take much pride in their position as privates, especially when several of the garrison troops were looking on, and when they were dismissed, those who had no servants to carry their muskets, used them as walking-sticks on returning home.

Strolling about one afternoon, I came upon an old graveyard on the top of a barren hill, off from the Governor's road, about two miles from the Campo gate. The stones were all flat and weather-worn; the inscriptions of many were indistinct, and would have baffled the skill of Old Mortality to decipher. Upon one I found the date 1767. None as late as the present century; some were in German, others had the English text.

This burial-place did not appear to have ever been inclosed, nor had it been used for the purpose of sepulture for nearly one century. That quaint ditty came into my head, and I naturally used its words as I looked upon these tombs: