And where will be those who breathe and walk one hundred years hence?

After three days hard work, the ship was got out of the Typa, and on the 29th of January (the anniversary of our departure from the United States,) got under way with the intention of steering for Manilla, but adverse winds and strong tides forced us to put into Hong-Kong, where we found it convenient to lay in additional stores.

Before we left Macào, the Portuguese corvette Don Joao Primero, had landed the new Governor, Cordoza.

On the morning of the 1st of February got under way, and stood out of the harbor of Hong-Kong—destination, Manilla.

In this month commences the Chinese new year, and our departure deprived us of an opportunity of witnessing its celebration, which is curious and worth seeing. It is perhaps the only general holiday the Chinese have: they devote it to feasting and hilarity, drinking sam-chu, and gambling; and as the fourth commandment is not considered in their religion, it is the only period when a cessation from labor occurs among them, and they appear to make the most of it, for they dispose of any thing at a low rate for a coin, previous to its advent, and the Coolies will appropriate every thing they can lay their hands on to promote its gratification.

Made the Island of Luconia, the principal of the Philippine group, on the 5th of February, in the morning watch, and employed that day in running down its coast. Stood off and on the entrance of the Bay of Manilla that night, and early the next morning passed El Corregidor, and stood up the bay with a fair wind, coming to anchor off the town about six bells, eleven o'clock, P. M.

The Bay of Manilla is magnificent in its proportions, but there are no striking objects surrounding it as at Rio. The water is generally bold and its navigation easy, yet there is a bar, or shallow spit projecting into it about twenty miles from its mouth, upon which a brig, which had been ahead of us, struck as we came up, thus proving that there are striking objects in the bay, at least.

Upon the morning after our arrival, a "tremblor," or shock from an earthquake, was felt on shore. They said it was the most severe one sustained for many years. No damage was done that I could learn, and they do not appear to dread them much, having an outlet for these sulphureous quakers in an extensive volcano.

"The celebrated and ever loyal city of Manilla," as it is called in the most grandiliquose of languages, is one of the oldest European settlements in the East, and it has well deserved its name. It is the capital of Luconia, or Luzon, and is situated in about lat. 14° 30' N. and 121° E. long.

Luconia, as I have before stated, being the principal island of the Philippines, gives this singular group a character throughout the world.

These islands were first discovered by that celebrated, but unfortunate navigator, Magellan,[7] in whose honor a column is erected in Manilla, who did not survive long enough to enjoy the fruits of his skill and perseverance, having been killed at the island of Matan in 1521.

After the death of Magellan, and the defeat of his expedition, two more attempts were made, which also failed. A fourth expedition, under command of Villalobos, sent by Mendoza, then Governor of New Spain, in 1542, succeeded in reaching the islands, when was given to them the name of Philippines, in honor of Philip the Second, Prince of Asturias; but Villalobos dying, it was broken up, and the few Spaniards that survived, returned home disheartened.

It remained to Segaspi to establish permanently the Spanish power upon these islands, and in 1565 he planted successfully that flag upon Luconia, and became its first Governor. By a judicious policy the good will of its inhabitants was secured, and the successful attempts of priests in converting the credulous natives to Catholicism, cemented a conquest for Spain, the least stained of any in her sanguinary history.

In 1571 Manilla was formed into a city with a municipal government, but it was not until 1795 that its charter received the royal seal, and only in 1638 that it obtained the privileges of the other royal cities of Spain.

"The ever loyal city" is supposed to be that portion inclosed by walls, but the suburbs are most interesting to a stranger.

The semi-circular space called "Manilla," contains the dwellings of the full-fed drowsy officials, whilst surrounding it is a busy, active buzzing hive. The change from the bustle of the Binondo quarter to the dull torpor intra murales, strikes you at once.

Leaving the ship in one of her boats, we were pulled up the Pasig, a river which runs through the town, and connects Laguna de Bay with the Bay of Manilla, and is here between two and three hundred yards wide, protected by an extensive Mole, which projects some distance into the Bay, upon the extremity of which is a light-house.

A short distance from its entrance was the Hotel of San Fernando, situated upon its left bank, which we reached about noon, and finding the heat oppressive, gladly availed ourselves of the protection of its roof, and the refreshment of a shower bath, which no one can appreciate more than a person who has been confined on board a man of war, with "one wide water all around" him, and but few chances to use it.

Took dinner at the hotel, and having thus refreshed and fortified the inner man, hired a "piscante" (a carriage to contain two persons), and drove, through the suburbs, out to the Calçada, to reach which, had to cross a magnificent, but ancient bridge over the Pasig.

The Calçada is the fashionable drive, and the meaning of the word is a causeway, or raised road; it extends along the walls of the city, and its centre, as well as each of its sides, is planted with fine flowering trees. A space is left between the double row of trees in the centre, in which are placed mounted guards, in showy uniforms, and mounted on splendid horses, to preserve order, and prevent collision of carriages, which are not permitted to pass out of a line, but must enter the passeo from the city at the left, and are obliged to follow each other at a slow pace and return upon the opposite side in the same order; the duty of the patrol being to see that no carriage leaves its place in the line.

This part of the road forms the chord of a semi-circle, whilst a continuation, not planted, is the segment, which turning round the walls of the city extends along the beach of the bay, giving a fine view of the shipping in the roads.

From the Calçada branch roads, leading to different points on this beautiful island, and these drives are truly magnificent. The roads are natural, and smooth as the most carefully kept lawn, your carriage rolls along them with so even a motion, and the scenery through which you drive is of such an oriental character, and the produce so luxuriant and rare, its fragrance so sweet, that one leans back in his easy-going piscante, totally forgetful of every thing but the present enjoyment, and almost realizing the ideas of fairy land which fancy wove

On the evening of our first day in Manilla, after returning from our drive, directed the "cochero" to take us to the theatre; he accordingly drove us to the Carillo quarter, and to the theatre of that name. Were admitted on the payment of two reals each, and seated ourselves, patiently awaiting the withdrawing of a curtain, upon which was delineated an uncouth figure and accompaniment, supposed to represent the "divine Apollo" and his lyre.

The building was of bamboo, and, covered with leaves from the same tree, was cool and well ventilated.

About fifty persons composed the audience, and these were principally civilized Indians of the Tagalo tribe, a fine-looking race. They were remarkably well behaved, and listened with much attention and apparent pleasure, to some most execrable music, elicited by scraping "the hair of the horse over the entrails of a cat," to wit: fiddling! which, ceasing at last, at a given signal, up rose the curtain, and with it Apollo took flight, and ascended to the clouds. The performance commenced, and lo! we found we had been beguiled into a puppet-show!—the actors being of pasteboard, and, although managed very well, we soon tired of them, and retracing our road to the hotel, took a shower bath, and turned in.

CHAPTER X.

Drive to the Balsa​—​Meaning of the word​—​A Mob of Women​—​Nora Creena​—​Magic, slipper​—​Description of the drive​—​Ferryman of the Females​—​Decline the office​—​The Suburbs​—​A la Balsa​—​Manilla, intra murales​—​The Mole by Moonlight​—​Friend in a fit​—​Circo Olympico​—​Scenes in the Circle.

Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on shore, for a drive to the Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road over which we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross to reach the romantic village of Maraquino.

Met crowds of native women coming in from that neighborhood to commence their work at the tobacco factory. Had heard of miles of girls at Lowell, greeting with smiles the noble father of the system which gave them employment, the honorable and the honest Henry Clay, but had never anticipated meeting with so many of the sex, within a mile, in these latitudes.

The crowd was so great as to materially affect our progress. We had often to haul up to allow them to pass, and when our cochero received the order "ander" it was coupled with the caution "despacho" that he might drive carefully for fear of injuring some of them.

Did not count, but suppose there could not have been less than two thousand women in this mob; but, alas! though some were young, but few were beautiful, and, as they shuffled along, in their short jackets, and the ungainly sciar wrapped around their nether extremities, they made a display of charms by no means attractive. Their style of dress differing from Nora Creena's in this, that whilst her gown was

their substitute for that portion of woman's apparel appeared as if the strongest kind of a "mountain breeze" had wrapped it tightly round their forms, and continued to keep them enveloped in its Laocoon-like folds; and although "every beauty" was not left exactly "free" yet there could be no disputing the evidence of sinking and swelling so sweetly described by the poet, as the peculiar charm exhibited in the costume of his admired Nora. They were generally barefooted, and those whose feet were clad, had them covered with that wonderful slipper, which barely covers the extremity of the foot, and is kept in its place by the adhesion of the smallest toe to its neighbor.

Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was the word, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cool and refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) even as a bowling green.

A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; it is a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at Cavitè, where we found the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by ropes (?) made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse of women had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjection to their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after the morning's rencontre.

A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot, and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory of Manilla cordage in the neighborhood.

Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine, and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the "Fabrica del Tobago," in which being disappointed, made our cochero drive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form the principal part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but the houses in them are generally constructed of bamboo.

There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in a dilapidated condition.

In the after part of the day drove again to the Calçada, where we spent the evening passing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of place in the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, to enable us to pass the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty," the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to risk fine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view."

After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious shower bath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of the beauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through our dreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visiting the "Rope factory," from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday.

Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was a la Balsa, trusting to be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat upon the fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselves again disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not or would not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, in spite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. I rather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until I afterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a class sui generis, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of the Spanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of their profession—their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they are generally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, after breakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "city of Manilla," little more now than a citadel for the surrounding population. These walls are in themselves thick and massive, and cover a considerable space in their foundation, although the area which they inclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs, and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean; but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at the hour when the Señoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future occasion saw it to more advantage.

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.

Monday, the eighteenth of February.—Returned on board from another trip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights, that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best plan is to detail them, seriatim.

Left the ship on Saturday morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reaching the hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading and taking a bath. After dinner drove out to the Calçada, around it to the front of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour or more, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen such splendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom it operated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have by your side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"

Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Prado directly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"—its opening night. Paid six reals each for admission and had our money's worth.

The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who was himself a native of la belle France. The horses were "native" if not to "the manner born." Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. The Frenchman had trained the menage, both Indians and horses, and promised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offered before. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped a la premiere lunette—to the dress circle. In it were several very tastily dressed and rather handsome ladies—brunettes of course. The performance had commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progress was that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patient quadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propria persona," but a poor Mestizo supplied the place of one, for being so unfortunate as to make some awkward leaps at the commencement, and showing some concern at his failure, whenever his turn came, he was sure to be greeted with laughter and applause. The audience had elected him clown, nem. con.—thus proving the truth of the axiom,

To vary the scene, the manner of leaping was changed, and two men were placed upon the beast in a reversed position, which my sentimental friend, now becoming facetious, thought very peculiar; they were soon, however, both sprawling in the tan amidst screams of laughter, having been knocked off by this bungling individual.

This over, the music commenced. Such music! During the uproar an attaché of the establishment appeared all bespangled, with an implement such as haymakers use in the happy harvest time, with which he described eccentric circles round the ring, stepping gingerly backwards at each swoop. At this my sentimental friend became witty, and selling himself to Josephus Millerius Senior, inquired in a whisper if that act might not have been set down in the bills as "The Rake's Progress." Had no hopes for him now, but in a shaved head, low diet, and the Water Cure.

The proprietor stepped gracefully forth upon the smoothed tan to announce the grand scene—an act of riding two horses by himself, and a young lady—her first appearance in any ring! Indeed it appeared to be the first essay of all the performers.

With a grand flourish of the entire band, consisting of trombone, riddle and drum, two small Manilla ponies made their entrée, accompanied by attendants enough to have borne them on bodily. Señor y Señiorita followed hand in hand, and introduced themselves, in character, with a graceful bow, a modest curtsy, and the disengaged hand on his heart, on the part of the gentleman as a token for both.

The lady was assisted to mount the inside pony, when the gentleman leaped lightly upon the off one. He was at first seated, as indeed was the female performer. At a sudden burst from the band, he started from his seat, a la cavalier, and bounding into the air, alighted upon the backs of the horses, a leg upon each. The lady was expected to have followed this graceful action, but its effect appeared to astonish the beasts, and the off steed, as mischievous a Mustang as ever munched at a manger, suspicious of a design to make him carry double, commenced curveting, and disturbed the equilibrium of the lady considerably. Then he seemed determined upon a separation "a vinculo," and spreading out, placed the gentleman in an awkward predicament, forcing him to make a stride like a pair of compasses in measuring a hemisphere, and stretching his tight and light-blue pantaloons to the very extent of their elasticity, a quantity of chalk from the saddle, marking the part which had come in contact with it. The disorganizing pony, after being well flogged, was forced back into his original position by his numerous attendants—vi et armis—and assisted in describing a semi-circle, with a few deviations, when suddenly stopping at the place of entrance, he caused the gentleman to perform an involuntary back somerset, and saluted him with a shower of kicks in his descent. But the undaunted Frenchman was soon upon his legs and the pony's back again, and then commenced a combat in which all the performers joined. The horses were whipped by the attendants, and kicked, plunged, and reared on their part. The proprietor expostulated with his lady co-actor, whom he threatened and coaxed in turn, but who evidently had a strong desire to discontinue the act; and it was amusing to watch the varying expression of his countenance, as, with frowning brow, and clenched hands, and such a grimace as a Frenchman only can produce, he menaced the lady, and "the passing smile his features wore," when he turned round deprecatingly to the audience.

At last, a compromise having been effected, the horses were gotten fairly under way, and had attained considerable headway, but broaching to, the Señora was dismounted, and regaining her feet, made an exit with more speed than grace, and the performance was announced—concluded. But upon taking a peep, after the audience had retired, I saw one of the ponies, mounted by a Manilla man, running the gauntlet of four long whips around the ring, and felt certain his rider could not have enjoyed much pleasure from the act, for every now and then he caught a lash intended for the horse, and if the other naughty pony had to come in for a like portion, expect he had another rider.

CHAPTER XI.

An early drive​—​Visit to Churches​—​The Cathedral​—​dash;​Description​—​Reflections​—​Church of the Binondo Quarter​—​The Dead Child​—​Baptism​—​Life's Entrances and Exit​—​Ceremony of taking the Veil​—​Poor Maraquita​—​An Episode​—​Don Cæsar de Bazan​—​Interior of the Convent​—​Interview with the Lady Superior​—​Interchange of compliments​—​Spanish Courtesy​—​An admission.

Sunday morning, took an early drive upon one of the beautiful roads that penetrate the interior of this fruitful island, and returned with a keen appetite for breakfast; this dispatched, drove with a party to visit the churches.

Went first within the walls to the Cathedral. Mass was over, and they were about to close the church. Had an opportunity, however, to obtain a hasty look at its interior.

It is very spacious and very grand, the roof supported by pillars about twelve feet in thickness. No galleries.

The principal altar was quite imposing, and upon it, plate of considerable value was exposed.

There are also other altars, and a number of chapels inclosed.

A full length figure of our Saviour, after His Descent from the Cross, is extended in a glass case beneath one of the altars, exciting grateful emotion for that love which caused Him to lay down His life for man, but not a proper subject, in my opinion, for exhibition.

The divine mission of Christ, its object, His self-humiliation, denials, struggles, sufferings and sacrifice, cannot be too often presented to our minds, nor too eloquently told. His Gospel cannot lose by repetition, and His life should be our grand exemplar! But the image of the Incarnate Godhead should never be associated with the waxen figure of a revolting corpse, nor should the hand of the creature, however skilful, attempt the presentment of the Great Creator. If Christ took upon Himself to become man, after He had performed His mission, and laid aside the form which He had assumed in which to perform the work of eternity, His carnal attributes should be swallowed up in the glory of His Being, and the mind should be taught to look up from the humiliation of the grave, and follow, with awe, the hand that rent the vail of the Temple in twain, up to the mercy seat, whence he ascended to plead for his murderers!

There was here an altar, on which the representation of a vine, with clusters of grapes was very elaborately cut, also a statue of an apostle, in wood, very naturally carved, and a conspicuous object.

Entered another church, outside the walls, in the Binondo Quarter. This was not so large as the Cathedral, nor as imposing, but it was crowded with worshippers, principally Indians of the Tagalo tribe. They were in every posture of devotion, telling their beads, and praying with apparent fervor. Indeed they appeared very zealous converts.

At the entrance to this church of the Binondo was exposed the corpse of a child of about seven or eight years. It was fantastically dressed and laid out upon a litter. To the left of this "memento mori" which appeared to produce but little effect, were quite a number of matrons, holding very young infants in their arms, awaiting their turn for baptism; on some of these baby's heads they had placed wigs!

It was a strange sight, and one in which the entrances and the exits of the stage of life were exhibited—that dead child, flanked by those newly breathing infants!

Had been told that the ceremony of taking the veil would come off that afternoon at a convent within the city walls, but the information was received too late, for, after hastening to the house of our hospitable friends, with whom we drove at once to the convent, found the ceremony over. The vicinity of the convent was all astir, and we saw a number of ladies, and heard some good music from a fine band, which, although the airs were gay, must, we thought, have had a mournful sound in the ears of the poor renouncing soul, henceforth to be immured within those gloomy walls. But no one appeared to care for her, all was life and gayety without, one would have thought some marriage fête was being celebrated, that those joy notes sounded for the binding of the holiest and dearest tie, had he not known their melody jarred upon heart-strings rudely severed, and ties for ever broken. But she was married, yes, married to the church! Poor Maraquita, thy fate was melancholy, and thy story a sad one, but one too often told of the warm-eyed and passionate maidens of this "land of the sun."

She had loved, her family opposed. Her lover was beneath her in condition, yet she loved him still the dearer. In these countries, for a daughter to think of mating without consent of priests and parents, is sacrilege. She was guilty of it, her proud and haughty mother had destined Maraquita to be the bride of a wealthy grandee of old Spain—had disposed of those affections, no longer in Maraquita's power to give, for they had already been transferred with all the other treasures of a young and loving heart, to the keeping of a dark-eyed youth of Manilla. He had been rudely repulsed by her parents, but often would the cautious twang of his guitar bring her to a midnight interview. These clandestine meetings were interrupted. Her dark-eyed lover no longer came, and she was told she would never see him more. A marriage with the Don was urged, she resisted—the alternative was a convent! In pity she implored a short delay, and then convinced that her lover had suffered from her cruel parents' jealousy, gave the vows of her broken heart to the church. And that music is her requiem, and his too! For after those vows had been pronounced, and the black veil had shut out hope for ever, a haggard youth was released from confinement, of whose few and ill-starred years the turbid waters of the Pasig soon washed away all trace.

Poor Maraquita! Poor Carlos! I know not whose fate the most to deplore—

With the narrator of this sad tale of passion and despair, I dropped a tear to their memory, thinking how truly the poet of all time has written—

The foregoing was not related at the time, but afterwards, by a young Spanish gentleman, who had taken some pains to enable us to witness the ceremony. I had hardly expected to hear a serious story from his lips, for his appearance was reckless and gay, and I had associated him in my mind with the character of Don Cæsar de Bazan, as I had seen it illustrated.

He introduced us further into the convent than I would have ventured upon my own responsibility—appeared at home with all the priests towards whom his manner conveyed but little reverence—and inquiring if we had any desire to see the nuns, went up to an opening in which there was a revolving frame, and asked for the Lady Superior. The lady mother soon presented her round and not unhandsome form at a door to the right, and in choice Italian demanded our business. With much nonchalance Don C. expressed a desire to pay his respects to the ladies under her charge, especially to the one just admitted. His coolness somewhat disconcerted the supreme lady Abbess, to whom such a request had never before been preferred, I warrant, and her black eyes sparkled with scarcely a holy fire, as she answered this time in Spanish, and in the tone of dignity which that language can convey so well, "That the nuns were in their place, and the new one did not receive company, especially that of such gay cavaliers," and intimated that in attending to their duties they set an example which would be well followed by those cavaliers.

Don Cæsar, his sang froid still retaining its temperature, with the grave courtesy of a true Spaniard, bowing almost to the floor, told her, "Heaven was the proper place for angels such as her noble self and her illustrious daughters," and wishing the whole family a pleasant journey thither, commended them to God. "Adios!" and the door was closed a little hastily.

After this interchange of compliments, Don Cæsar took us to his father's house, within the walls near the convent, where he gave us introductions to his sisters, cousins, and other ladies, all under the excitement of the event of the day.

The old gentleman placed, with the usual Spanish compliment, his house, and all that it contained in our hands. And when I state, that like Jephtha, he "had a daughter who was passing fair," my sensations can be imagined, and it may be understood how small a portion of the "Casa," with this appurtenance, would have satisfied me.

CHAPTER XII.

Fabrico del Tobago​—​Manufacture of the Cheroot​—​Description of the process​—​Female Operatives​—​Gigantic effects​—​Midshipman attacked​—​A delightful Evening​—​Boat ahoy​—​Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay​—​Funcion Familia​—​Madame Theodore​—​The Calçada again​—​Margarita​—​Teatro Binondo​—​Teatro Tagalo de Tondo​—​Espana​—​Anecdote of an Englishman​—​Farewell to Manilla​—​Out to Sea.

The greatest curiosity of Manilla is its Tobacco Manufactory, or rather the Segar Factory, for it is only into segars that the tobacco is made here. It is a government monopoly, and the revenue from it is very great.

I forget the number of segars said to be made daily, but there are between eight and nine thousand women employed solely for that purpose, and giving the small average of twelve segars to each, there would be over one hundred thousand produced per diem; and yet the government is unable to meet the demand for them, having, as I learned, orders months ahead.

The article manufactured is called the Cheroot, and is made in two different styles—one called Cortada, from having both ends cut; the other, Havana, being twisted at one end like the Cuban segar. They have but lately commenced to make them in this fashion, and these are put up principally for the California market, where doubtless they are disposed of as the real Habana.

Cheroots, in any shape, are worth in Manilla about eight dollars per M., subject, I believe, to a small export duty, which more than covers the expense for boxes, labels, and packing, so that supposing each woman to make the number stated above, and the whole force to be employed, we have the immense sum of eight hundred thousand dollars worth of segars from this mammoth Tobaccary per diem. Each operative receives one real a day, but there are others not enumerated in this class, such as male laborers, overseers, inspectors, accountants, book-keepers, &c., who receive from twelve to thirty dollars per mensem, so that two thousand dollars daily is not a large estimate of wages paid out by this establishment.

The interior is divided into sections, of which there are nine or ten. In each section from eight hundred to one thousand women are engaged. At the head of each sectional division are rooms for inspection, where are stationed persons to examine the segars, who return those which do not come up to a certain standard. Of those that pass the test a sample is placed, after being marked and numbered, in a glass case suspended in the apartment.

Every morning a certain quantity of tobacco is given to each person, and water is measured out sufficient to dampen it. The operatives are held accountable for the material. Out of the number of hanks of the leaf so many segars are to be produced, and if the water is used for any other than the specified purpose, no more can be procured. They are said to resort to many ingenious expedients to eke out the allowance. From eight to ten women are employed together, squatted at a low table; and there are double rows of these tables, leaving a space to pass through the centre of the room. At each table the entire process of making the cheroot is performed. The leaf is untwisted from the form into which it is fashioned by the grower, spread out and dampened. For the purpose of flattening these leaves they are supplied with stones, with which, and their tongues, an incessant and most infernal clatter is kept up. One of the party selects and arranges the tobacco, another fills the segar and hands it to her neighbor, who rolls it into shape and passes it to the next person, who cuts it, and it is thus quickly transferred from hand to hand, until the care-dispelling cheroot is perfected and prepared for inspection. As each is completed, it is dropped into a basket placed at the end of the table nearest the passage way, from which the cheroots are taken and tied up into bundles. The Cortada into bunches of ten. The Havanas always in bundles of twenty-five.

The factory, as may be supposed, is very extensive, and covers a considerable area. The delineations of it upon the Manilla segar boxes, though rude, are tolerably good illustrations, and will convey some idea of the appearance of the building externally. But a visit within its walls is necessary to a realization of its importance.

I am ignorant of the name and title of the Narcotian saint who has the honor to preside over these operations, but they have images of several stuck up in niches at the entrance to the different sections; and if the sense of smelling in their originals, be equal to that of hearing, which has been attributed to them, there floats about them sufficient of the aroma of tobacco to gratify the nostrils of the most inveterate snuff-taker that ever was canonized.

My companion on this visit was the young gentleman who slid into the sentimentals, as I have recorded, upon the moonlighted mole. He was born and raised (as they say) in the West; nor did he discredit his raising, being in the proportion of every thing native to that extensive country, and six feet three or four inches in height. It was amusing to notice the sensation he created as he strode through the different apartments. As he approached, the clatter of both tongues and stones ceased, and hundreds of eyes would be upraised to scan his towering proportions. They have pretty black eyes, those Tagalo girls, and exuberant crops of jet black hair too; but it is coarse, and freely anointed with that pungent unguent, cocoanut oil! "Mira! El Gigantè!" would be ejaculated in Spanish, whilst no less sonorous notes of admiration would be issued in the Tagalo dialect.

Two Spanish soldiers accompanied us as a guard, and I doubt not but that their presence prevented these unsophisticated damsels from laying violent hands upon my virtuous friend. Indeed, I was told of an English midshipman, who, with the usual assurance of his order, disdaining the protection of a soldier, ventured alone into the midst of the female Indian army, which, relying upon its numerical strength, and either prompted by curiosity, or feeling inclined to resent such bold intrusion, surrounded him and handled him so roughly, that he was obliged to "ignominiously cry for quarter;" and was only released after the loss of his uniform jacket and some other articles of male attire. Of course, we witnessed no demonstration of this kind, and I do not vouch for the truth of the "yarn"—telling it only "as 'twas told to me."

From the segar factory to the bath, which, with a change of garments, found necessary to remove the taint of tobacco obtained by remaining so long amidst such quantities of it. Then a siesta, and after drove to dine with our kind friends who procured permits for our admission to the "Fabrica del Tobago." After dinner to spend the evening with a Spanish family related to our mercurial friend, Don Cæsar de Bazan. Had dancing, polkas and mazourkas being especial favorites; singing also, and music from La Norma and Sonnambula, exquisitely performed. At eleven o'clock were forced to tear ourselves away from as delightful a party as it had been our lot to enjoy since we had left our native land, and pulling off in a rocking banca to exchange the soft and liquid notes of beautiful Señoras, for the gruff salute of the sentry.

Had been strongly pressed to make one of a party to Laguna de Bay, but coming on shore found the day for our departure fixed, and as the party could not be expected to return by that time, were reluctantly compelled to decline.

Found, however, invitations awaiting us for a "Funcion Familia" that evening, which accepted. Determining to make the most of the time that remained, procured a "piscanté" and drove through the suburbs. In the "Escolta"—principal street—found the establishment of Madame Theodore, a fine-looking Mestizo woman, who sells peña dresses, etc., and has a splendid assortment. She is said to be very wealthy, and though still young—a widow, and is doing a very large business. Of course she has plenty of suitors, and is a match for them all; for she appears to have attained perfection in the art of managing men. Should a college of women ever want a professor, she deserves a degree of Mistress of Arts, and would admirably fill the Chair of Coquetry.

Dined again with our kind friends, and then took a last drive upon the Calçada. Backwards and forwards along this beautiful paseo we went, the moon lending her enchantment, and the different bands filling the air with ravishing strains, odorous plants of the tropics lading it with perfumes, and the dark-eyed Señoras reclining in their luxurious calesas, gave as good an idea of a paradise of Mahomet's order as one could wish. Lingered here as long as we could, and then off to the "Funcion," where spent a delightful evening. This was a family dancing party, such as the French describe by the words "Soirée dansante." At it met several of the ladies we had seen on Sunday, after poor Maraquita had taken the veil. Were very kindly received, and warmly greeted by the sunny smile and speaking eyes of Señora Margarita. The ladies danced with much grace, and entered into the spirit of the thing as if they enjoyed it. They were in different costumes, and saw here the only graceful exhibition of the Jaceto and Sciar. Many of them had no covering to their beautiful little feet, excepting that magical slipper named before, which they managed to admiration, never allowing it to lose its position, or to touch the floor at any other part but the toe, to which it adhered with singular tenacity, through the most difficult steps of the whirling waltz or puzzling polka.

The lovely daughter of the Don—Margarita, however, was dressed in the latest Parisian fashion, and looked like an—angel, I was going to write, but the recollection of that "lurking devil" in her eye stayed the perjury of my pen. She looked a real bona fide woman, and a specimen of the race I shall be well enough satisfied with, until I am assured beyond a doubt that angels are feminine, of which there is no proof in either sacred or profane history (all the illustrations I have ever seen proving the contrary)—and I can get as close to them as I was to Señora Margarita.

February 22d.—Birthday of the immortal Washington. The day appointed for sailing was fast approaching, and had to make all speed to get through various engagements in Manilla. Having been informed that an opera would be performed on our last evening, and opera being a special delight, went ashore for the purpose of attending, but on arriving at the theatre found the opera had been postponed on account of the primo tenore being afflicted with "boils." Had often known broils to have been the cause of disappointment to the lovers of "Ernani" and other rapturous representative music, but here the artiste had gotten hot blood into him, instead of getting into hot water; and thinking of the patient man of Uz, I sympathized with him; for, par parenthèse, these eruptions of the skin are exceedingly sore in this climate, as you may find out if you but come to the East Indies and eat mangoes.

A comedy had been substituted, called El lindo Diego, the part of which we saw was well performed. A disagreeable feature, however, was in the position of the prompter, who was placed in the centre of the footlights, and kept up a continuous recitation of the play in a monotonous tone, which greatly marred the effect.

The Teatro Binondo, where I saw this, is a very comfortable place, with good accommodations, splendid box for the Governor, fine airy saloons, and extensive verandahs. The price for admission was moderate—sixty-two and a half cents in United States currency.

Adjourned, after witnessing a dance between the acts, with castanets, to another place of amusement, the Teatro Tagalo de Tonda (where the performance was in the Indian tongue), which is of a less imposing style, but where they get along very well.

After stopping here a short time, drove with Don Cæsar to his residence in the country, about three miles; and in both going and returning were hailed every square by a sentry, who will permit no one to pass without a response. The watchword that night was España, which I was compelled to repeat so often that I heartily wished them all in Spain, and felt very much inclined to send them all thither, or to some other warm climate, but that Don C. cautioned me not to trifle with these punctilious privates: as on one occasion an Englishman, annoyed as I had been, having answered the fiftieth hail disrespectfully, in his own language, was marched off to the Calaboose, where he was detained all night, and only released the next morning upon the payment of a heavy fine, with the hint that the next time he insulted a Spanish soldier, it would be better to use some language he did not understand. I, however, got back safely to the "San Fernando," calling out continually, Presto, to the cochero, and España, to the sentries, and turned in. Next morning settled up accounts, and found the item for carriage hire considerable, averaging three dollars a day! Bidding adieu to Manilla, embarked in a banca—Manilla boat—and came on board ship.

At meridian a salute was fired in honor of the day, the smoke from which had hardly cleared away before the anchor was tripped, and with studding-sails set, we were standing down the bay, with a fine leading wind. Passed the island of Corregidor, at its entrance, about sunset; and before midnight had made some fifty miles of an offing.

CHAPTER XIII.

Anchor in Harbor of Hong-Kong​—​Hastings and Herald both off​—​Advantage of Newspapers​—​A First-rate notice​—​The Press of Victoria​—​The Friend of China​—​Its pugnacity​—​Advertising Sheets​—​Description of Island​—​Rain​—​Character of Chinese Inhabitants.

Our passage to Hong-Kong was unmarked by any incident worthy of especial notice; and we reached that harbor safely upon the second of March, and came to anchor. Found every thing in about the same condition as when we left, and a large fleet of merchantmen in port; but missed the "Hastings" from her moorings, as also the "Herald." They both had sailed during our absence: the Hastings' to be roasted by the hot sun of Bombay; the Herald's to a warm greeting in their native isle.

Missed the officers of these vessels very much; for a kindly feeling had sprung up amongst us, and interchanges of courtesies had made us friends. But thus it is in this roving life; and it may be best that the acquaintance thus stumbled upon remains but long enough to please, and is gone before the gloss of novelty is rubbed off,—before familiarity deadens or destroys its first impression.

There is one thing connected with this colony which adds greatly to its interest to a person coming from a country where "the art preservative of all arts" sends the rays of knowledge throughout the entire length and breadth, to all classes and conditions, illuminating as well the squatter's hut, as the patrician's hall. I allude to the existence of newspapers. Only a person who has been accustomed to them, as we are in the United States, can appreciate the deprivation of this mental food, when placed beyond its reach, on a foreign station like this, where a paper some three months after its publication is seized upon with the greatest delight; and news, which at home has long lost its name, is devoured with avidity, and discussed as a dainty. How true is it, that we can only appreciate our blessings by their loss. Why, with all the arts lending their aid; with steam, with electricity, with the painter's skill, condensed by the most powerful intellects; with midnight toil, and daily effort to produce that "map of busy life," which is diurnally, almost hourly, spread out before us, and for a consideration, too, which in many instances is not equivalent to the cost of the material upon which it is sketched: with the lightning harmlessly conducting along the pliant wire, stretched from one end of the continent to the other, thoughts which have annihilated time: with another element, which has nearly obliterated space, they are spread over its face; and by another application of the same magic power are wafted hundreds and hundreds of miles, and thrown upon your lap, damp and reeking, ere yet the process has had time to dry. If Faust was supposed to have been assisted by the Evil One, what would his persecutors have said, had they been shown a picture like this? What would they have said? Why, that even Satan himself possessed not such power, and denied that to the devil, which is now accomplished by a poor devil of a printer! And yet how often do we throw aside the teeming sheet, placed as regularly before us as our breakfast, and declaring it indifferent, petulantly begrudge its publisher the poor penny of its price. Let the grumbler be stationed in these Chinese waters for two years and upwards, and when he has been deprived a greater part of that time of the "Sun," that awaited his pleasure to shine, the "Herald," ushering in the morn at his bidding, the "Times," that never grew old, and the "News," expressly awaiting his perusal,—let him, I say, after perusing papers that have reached him in March, '51, bearing the date of the past Christmas, pick up a paper out here, even if it be a colonial one, upon the day of its publication, and he will sing, Io Triumphe, as I did.

There are two newspapers printed in Victoria (Hong-Kong), and both of these, I believe, are bi-weekly. One is called the "Friend of China, and Hong-Kong Gazette;" the other, "The China Mail." The latter is the government organ, and has the colonial printing. The former is independent, and slashes away right and left, sparing neither friend nor foe, and its columns are always open to complaining correspondents. Sir Geo. Bonham, the Governor, often got severely handled; and either because the government laid itself open to attack, or the editor had some cause for pique, it appeared to be continually "pitching into" it. Its articles were bold and forcibly expressed, and from their tenor would suppose it exposed itself to prosecution for libel, but understood it had steered clear of the Courts that far. Its editor shows a great deal of industry and perseverance in its management. His Marine List is full and complete. Not only does he give the arrivals and departures of shipping at Hong-Kong, but at all the other ports in China waters; also a full and corrected list of all vessels at Whampoa, Shanghae, and Macào, and publishes all the information that can be obtained of the extensive commerce of this part of the East, such as statistics of imports and exports, &c., &c. His is the ungracious task to reform abuses; perhaps, like Hamlet, he thinks "the times are out of joint," and he "was born to set them right." Or it may be that he is influenced by the same motive as the Irishman, who, upon the eve of a presidential election in the United States, was asked to cast his vote for the party which aspired to place their candidate upon the chair, after ousting the incumbent. Pat's first inquiry was, if it was aginst the government they wanted him to vote; and being told it was, assented, upon the principle that he always went against the government.

In addition to these there are several advertising sheets, which are distributed gratis, and exhibit the extensive trade carried on by the merchants of the colony and Canton. Even these are interesting, proving, as they do, the indomitable perseverance of the race, and bringing up pleasant remembrances by their familiar diction.

The island of Hong-Kong, the original word in the Chinese is Hoong-Keang, which means "Red Harbor," is in about lat. 22° 17' 00'' North, long. 114° East, and is one of the Ladrones, a group of rocky islands which dot this part of Canton Bay. In length it is about eight miles, its greatest breadth not more than four, and it is separated from the mainland by an arm of the sea, called the Lyemoon Passage, in which are several smaller islands, which vary its width, and make admirable hiding places for the pirates, whose existence has given to this Archipelago its distinctive title of Ladrone. In fact the Strait is named after a celebrated pirate who once commanded there.

Upon the northern side of this island of Hong-Kong, is the settlement called Victoria, which, as I have before stated, is generally known by the name of the island, and a reference to it is made in a former page.

This island is mountainous, but contains many extensive valleys—none very remarkable for fertility.

The mountains are formed of a species of granite, the greater part of which is of a crumbling nature, and through them runs a stratum of a red sandy formation, which, I suppose, geologists would call "pœcilitic." There are occasionally to be found solid boulders of this material, which has been used for building. But it is to be remarked that the granite found in that state is generally detached from the larger masses, which appear to be in a state of decomposition, the particles from which, washed down by the heavy summer rains, are said to add greatly to the fatality occasioned by the decimating properties of an Indian sun.

That old lady who asserted that "it never rains but it pours," would have been furnished with corroborative proofs had she witnessed some of the pluvial exhibitions at Hong-Kong. It really does pour on such occasions there. Talk of the deluge, when the windows of heaven were said to have been opened! Why if that venerable dame could have seen the descent of these torrents, she would have thought that all obstructing barriers of the blue empyrean had been removed, and the surcharged clouds suddenly overturned, and have come to the conclusion that forty days of such outpouring would leave no resting-place, even upon the lofty peak of Victoria mountain.

They call the period from June to October the rainy season, but I have witnessed extensive showers in nearly all the intermediate months. These are sudden and overwhelming. Instances are related of Coolies having been caught in currents rushing down the mountain, and drowned without the possibility of assistance.

In the years 1845 and '6, from July to January, within a period of six months, ten feet of rain was measured by an ombrometer, having fallen at Hong-Kong.

The island came into possession of Great Britain in 1842 by cession, but had been occupied on the 26th of January of the previous year, in consequence of a treaty which was afterwards rejected by the Emperor. Great inducements were held out to Chinese to settle in Victoria by the British government. They were guaranteed all their rights and privileges, and allowed freedom in their religious rites, and permitted to follow their own customs. These inducements, however, appeared to have but little effect upon the Chinese. They distrusted the "outside barbarians," and it was to the interest of the Mandarins to prevent emigration to the new settlement. At present much of the distrust has worn away, and many have taken advantage of the opening made by thriving trade; still it must be admitted that the majority of Chinamen to be found in Hong-Kong, are of the nature of those patriots who leave "their country for their country's good," and the numbers seen in the chain gangs, show the manner in which they best serve the State.

CHAPTER XIV.

Hong-Kong​—​Object of its Settlement​—​Its service as an Opium Depot​—​Views of the Opium Trade​—​Its History​—​Considered the cause and object of the War​—​Treaty of Nankin​—​Opium Trade fixed on China.

The principal advantage possessed by Hong-Kong—I shall designate the settlement henceforth by the name assigned to it by common consent—is the facility its position affords for carrying on the trade in opium, which deleterious drug will continue to be introduced into China, in spite of the strongest imperial edicts, and the severest denouncements of punishment against its consumers, so infatuated are its users, and so governed by the spirit of avarice its introducers.

After the celebrated destruction of all he could get possession of, by Commissioner Lin, in June, 1839, which operated somewhat like the Frenchman's revenge upon the bank, in destroying the bill for which he had been refused specie, not only having to be paid for by the Chinese, after an expensive war, but causing other imports of the drug to supply its place; the English, naturally seeking a safe and suitable spot for a dépôt, arranged so as to make its cession an article in a treaty with High Commissioner Keshen, in January, 1841, which, although it was abrogated, and hostilities resumed, made but little difference in the destinies of Hong-Kong, for it is well known that wherever that nation plants its foot, the marks of it are not easily obliterated. There can be little doubt but that this was what gave the barren island more importance in their eyes, than the more healthy and fertile Chousan.

The cession made, their great desire to procure an emigration of Chinese to this point, proved a wish for consumers and distributors, and the stationing at once of receiving ships in the Red Harbor, disclosed their object.

In answer to orders, from Bombay and Calcutta came numerous vessels which here deposited their poisonous cargoes, and returning for another freight, left it to be distributed by swift-sailing and armed clippers, throughout the dominions of an empire whose laws they had signed a solemn compact to respect, which laws made its delivery contraband.

"But," will exclaim some, "these were not the acts of the British Government. The crown lends no aid to such a traffic." Indeed! then let us say that it is the act of the people of a colony under the fostering care of that crown, with the representative of the Queen directing its affairs. To his lordship's knowledge, I will not say to his profit, but certainly to the pecuniary benefit of the colony, and against the most repeated protests of the Chinese Government are these imports and exports allowed and countenanced, until even good men of their own kind have called out in their midst—proh pudor!

"Have not the colonists a right to import a drug, which is legally an article of import, allowed by the crown?" No! not for the avowed purpose of distributing it amongst a people, whose government protests against its introduction; for no opium dealer will pretend to assert that it is for consumption by the inhabitants of Hong-Kong, or foreign residents of Canton, but must admit that it is brought expressly for transhipment to the coasts of China, at no port of which would it be admitted upon the payment of any duty; in fact, it is contraband! As good a right has the Frenchman to land his Bordeaux brandy upon a part of the English coast, to evade the customs. Aye! if you come to that, a better right; for upon the payment of a duty its admission is not denied; but this article is considered so baneful to China, that no premium is thought equivalent to the injury sustained by its introduction.

The argument advanced by interested persons, that supposing they did not prosecute the trade, others would reap its advantages, bears its fallacy upon its face. For it is not permitted to us to profit by doing evil, for the reason that the possibility of performing the wicked act is in the hands of others.

The first opium known in China was grown in small quantities in one of its own provinces, that of Yunnam, which was used medicinally. It belonged to the East India Company first to introduce it into the empire as a luxury; for we have an account of the importation of a number of chests in one of its vessels from Bengal in 1773. Shortly after other English merchants entered in the trade, and two vessels were stationed as receiving ships, near Macào. By degrees these opium dépôts were extended to Whampoa, Lintin, Cap-sing-Moon, and other suitable places, until its consumption began to attract the notice of the Chinese government; and in the year 1800 its importation was prohibited by a special Imperial edict, and measures were taken to prevent its use throughout the provinces. But the habit had become too strong to be controlled, and its consumption increased, despite the severest penalties. Death, transportation, confiscation of property, could not deter those upon whom the sight of its daily operations had no effect; and the immense profits realized in the sale caused those engaged in the traffic to incur all risks.

From the southern, it spread to the northern and eastern coasts. Receiving vessels were stationed at Amoy, Fuh-Choo, Namoa, and Woosung, with fast clippers to supply them from the principal dépôt at Hong-Kong; and opium was smuggled almost within the precincts of the Imperial Palace.

The government did all in its power to prevent its introduction and sale, but its efforts were fruitless, until Commissioner Lin was sent to Canton, empowered by the Emperor himself. By prompt and vigorous measures, he succeeded in obtaining possession of two thousand two hundred and eighty-three chests, which he publicly destroyed, and which act was the cause of the rupture between England and China, justly called the Opium War. This war was continued with much success by the English, and a great deal of intriguing on the part of the Chinese, until, on the twenty-ninth of August, 1842, after the British forces had possessed themselves of nearly all the important towns on the coast, and penetrated the Chinese empire as far as Nankin, a treaty was concluded between the two nations on board H. B. M. ship Cornwallis, which was to take effect from that date, after being signed and sealed by the Plenipotentiaries of the respective parties. By this treaty, five ports in China were to be opened to British subjects for residence and trade. These are Canton, Amoy, Fuh-Choo, Ning-po, and Shanghae: six millions of dollars paid as the value of the opium destroyed by Lin: the system of Co-Hong abolished, and three millions paid for losses by the Hong merchants to British subjects; twelve millions to defray the expenses of the war; and the island of Hong-Kong ceded for ever to the British government. By the cession of this island, all future attempts of the Chinese government to prevent the introduction of opium are frustrated. Previously, those who dealt in this article were confined to the insecure dépôt of a receiving vessel, liable to attack, fire, and wreck. Now they possess an island capable of a strong defence, where the opium can be imported in any quantity, under the protection of the English flag, and from whence it can be exported at leisure to any point in China. Certainly, by the acquisition of Hong-Kong the British have secured this trade; and henceforth the "flowing poison" must spread from hence over the length and breadth of the "Central Flowery Land," unless the Celestials, with one consent, should abandon its use,—a thing almost impossible to a people once brought under its influence.

It has been urged by Chinese of much shrewdness, that its importation as a drug should be allowed under a heavy duty, and that the government thus secure a profit from the evil; but a former Emperor declared he could never receive a revenue from the misery of his people, and the present government still perseveringly opposes its use.