Trip to Macào—Disappointed in getting ashore—Mai arrived—Get no Letters—Expression of Sentiments—Causes and Effects—Overland Mail—Idea of a Route—Happy Valley—Chase of Pirates—A Poisson d'Avril—Into the Typa again—Arrival of Consort—Late Dates—Catholic Fête—Depart for Shanghae—The Yang-tse-Kiang—Improvement in the appearance of the Country—Better race of Men—Banks of the Woo-sung.
Took a trip over to Macào, for a supply of provisions, our dépôt being there, and having these on board, back again to Hong-Kong. Did not get ashore at Macào, which was somewhat of a disappointment, as I had some kind friends there whom I wished much to see, and from whom the cruise to Manilla had made the separation longer than usual.
Upon the eighteenth of March the Mail Steamer came into Hong-Kong, with the overland mail. I had been anxiously expecting its arrival, with letters for myself, but was disappointed, and gave expression to my feelings in this wise:
After this felt somewhat relieved; for the mind is like the body, and mental, as well as physical suffering, must have vent. A twinge of a tooth brings forth a groan; a twitch of the heart-strings produces poetry in me: have only to hope the poetry may not have the effect of the toothache upon the reader.
The overland mail is brought across the desert by the Isthmus of Suez, and reaches Hong-Kong in about forty-five days from England, and brings dates from the United States in from 60 to 70 days, depending upon the junction of the Atlantic steamers. Letters by it can either be sent via Southampton, England, or Marseilles, France; the latter is considered the swiftest route, the former the most secure.
Monsoons in the China Sea affect its transit on that end of the line, and letters have been known to have reached Hong-Kong from New-York during a favorable monsoon within 60 days.
Since the acquisition of California, our government possesses a much speedier route, and would find it greatly to her interest to establish a line by any of the overland routes across the Isthmus of Darien, and from thence by steam to Shanghae, or even Hong-Kong in China; and I do not despair of seeing the time when letters will be delivered in these ports within forty days, from the Atlantic cities. Our growing interests in this section of the globe demand attention and some arrangement of this kind.
Remained moored in the harbor of Hong-Kong until the second day of April, visiting the town occasionally, and strolling over the hills for exercise.
They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expense through hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out, about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about two miles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gotten up by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley, called "Happy Valley." It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness, and it certainly is a principal ingredient, for has not a poet said
Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as it always is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to prevent it, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. The Spaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his cocks, but John Bull selects the noblest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his own emulation for superiority.
Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement to destroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulated that a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O. Company's steamer "Hong-Kong," which had left that day for Canton.
These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese passengers at one dollar a head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number of desperadoes, armed, had embarked in her.
H. B. M. screw propeller "Reynard," immediately got up steam, thirty men and officers from our ship were transferred to the little American steamer "Spark," and both vessels started in hot pursuit.
The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour those waters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not far to go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, which reported having passed the "Hong-Kong," all right. So both vessels returned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April.
But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be said to have caught a "poisson d'avril," for there was doubtless a design against the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, and some of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong, for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeated their purpose.
Upon the second of April, left for Macào, there to await the arrival of our consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuck upon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning, kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat by pumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c., into a lorcha. After reaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a salute of 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal.
Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anchored in the outer roads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months and seventeen days after date.
Had been ashore several times in Macào, but found little to interest me until the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn out of the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated, and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to the next, and the principal object appeared to be that of visiting each and every church, a continuous stream being kept up between them.
Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performed at the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from the cross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemn procession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followed the "accursed tree" with the bloody garment of Christ upon it. After it came ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxen image to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, and immediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite were next, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournful music; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dresses and heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved through the principal streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body was placed in the tomb with solemn ceremony.
On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated with appropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about the streets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses, where after going through a performance, they would partake of refreshments.
Left Macào for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Sea against a strong N. E. monsoon. In this passage our craft behaved remarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligently ploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the least obstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable, also greatly impeded her progress.
Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May, and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current very strong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide.
Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got about eight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continued until the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghae river, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled so suddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village of Woo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40 miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae is situated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction with the Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, and washes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital of the Empire.
Nankin is laid down in latitude 32° 5' N., longitude 119° E., and is about 50 leagues from the ocean.
The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or more literally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred miles in length, and its breadth and capacity entitle it to the classification of the third river of the world.[8]
As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face of the country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rocky hills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallest shrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees had become rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out a beautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industrious cultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong and broad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye in every direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of the fishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gave evidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the provident husbandman.
The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were of a larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southern brethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for the first time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks.
The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in the appearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health, and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. They were clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in the material of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and the children were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannot commend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymen nearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element,—possibly because it was spread before them in larger quantities.
It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May," when we approached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usual spring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightful temperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And as we dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descried which brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would be pointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation, or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Lares and Penates jostled the household gods that presided there.
Footnotes:
[8] An English tourist, who found himself upon the Yang-tse-Kiang, compared it with the Thames, admitting its superiority. I, as a Yankee, compare it with my own Mississippi; and place it next in rank to the "Father of waters," to which stream it hears some resemblance.
Shanghae—Immense number of Junks—Foreign Residences—Novelty of Chimneys—Revolting appearance of Beggars—Undertakers—Price of Coffins—Decline Trading—Description of City—Stagnant Pools—Tea Gardens—Sweet Site—The Taoutae—Advantages of Shanghae—Departure—Ship Ashore!—Sensation.
Shanghae is situated in about 30° 26' N. latitude; longitude 120° 48' East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts, belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our position.
Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on shore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a line of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to excite the pity of the passer-by.
In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed, when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering that a negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."
Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid, shallow ditch before the walls.
Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea was dispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it was perhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a "smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibes the least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of a stagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. A fantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole the effect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water.
Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "curios" and was then perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole.
The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an official visit to the Taoutae,—Lead man of the district,—and was well received. The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant at Canton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from having consorted so much with "Fankwies," in his former capacity, he was quite at home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctance that these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense with any of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to lay aside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy in it. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nation where "gold grows," I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risen greatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and the appearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters.
The day following His Excellency, the Taoutae, sent on board numerous presents, amongst which were some early fruit, sweetmeats, and two very fine sheep. These latter, of the celebrated Shanghae breed, were the finest specimens I have seen for a long time; and the most striking peculiarity about them was the preponderance of fat to their caudal extremities, the tail of each being of an entirely different formation from that of the European breed; and I can compare it to nothing better than an immense woolly mop, "in the place where the tail ought to grow." I do not know if any of these sheep have ever been imported into the United States, or whether they would endure the voyage, but understood the stock is not considered equal to our own. These certainly were covered with heavy coats of wool: of its quality I was unable to judge, having confined my examination entirely to what lay beneath, which I can unhesitatingly pronounce to be as good mutton as I had ever eaten.
A very short stay, and an attack of sickness, prevented me from exploring much of Shanghae, or its environs, and I learned there are a thousand things worth seeing.
The Chinese call this province the Paradise of China, and if I am not mistaken, the word has this signification when interpreted: and they have a proverb, which runs in this wise: "See Shanghae, and die." I came very near acting up to their advice, for after seeing what is previously written, I was taken seriously ill; so that, had our stay been prolonged, I would have been unable to have gone on shore, unless, indeed, in one of their fancy coffins!
Learned, however, from one of the officers of Her Majesty's brig "Contest," who had been stationed here some time, that the climate is delightful to those who are able to withstand the cold of the winters; that the features of the country have not been misstated, but are equal to any representation made; that game is at all times abundant, especially in autumn, when fine sport is to be obtained by those who handle "mantons" with even moderate skill; furthermore, the followers of quaint old Isaac, the ancient angler, need but a tithe of his art to tempt the piscatory tribe from their native element. But he did affirm that in midsummer, the mercury in the tube scarcely ever gets below 100° Fahrenheit, and the action of the sun's rays upon the stagnant water before-named, gives such an intimation to the nostrils of the state of the atmosphere, as to render the use of the eudiometer unnecessary.
Got under way from our moorings early in the morning of Monday the 19th, and dropped down with the tide; getting out of the Woo-Sung, anchored in the Yang-tse-Kiang, on the 20th, passed Saddle Island, and dismissing the pilot, headed for Amoy, at which port we were to look in on our return.
We had proceeded along pretty well until the morning of the 27th, when about three o'clock in the morning watch, as I was lying awake in my apartment, heard the officer of the deck give the order for tacking ship—"Ready about"—and after the boatswain's pipe to "Stations." "Ready, ready," when she received a shock, as from the concussion of a heavy sea, then another, and another, which soon convinced me that the ship was ashore. This was certainly unpleasant, as I had no doubt but that we were at that time twenty miles from land, and the idea of a coral reef in that position, was premonitory of a salt-water bath. Before the call of "All hands save ship," was given, I was upon deck, and found that she had grounded upon a bank on the northern coast of the island of Formosa, having been swept by an unusual current over thirty miles in the course of twelve hours, an event altogether unlooked for, and which would have baffled the skill of the most experienced navigator; our chart, upon examination, also proving to be incorrect. Luckily it was ebb tide when she went on, and after getting out all the boats, and lightening the ship by throwing overboard shot and starting water, she was got off, after having been aground about eight hours, and thumping terribly.
It was the first time I had ever felt the effects of a heavy sea upon a ship ashore, and never wish to experience them again.
With our armament and stores we were probably as heavily laden as a merchant vessel of greater tonnage would have been with cargo, but being more strongly built, were of course better able to withstand the shocks.
Every time she struck, the top-gallant masts would sway like saplings, and the ship tremble throughout her whole frame, indeed, a homely remark of one of her crew was very expressive of her condition: "Why the old ship has got the hiccups," and her motions were truly resembling those of a human being in convulsive throes.
Notwithstanding we got off so easily, yet our situation had in it much of peril, and we were at one time in some danger.
The inhabitants of this part of Formosa are savages, some say cannibals. They had gathered in great numbers on the beach, some two or three thousands, and appeared divided into different clans, awaiting our breaking up. Had we fallen into their hands, defenceless, there was but little chance of escaping, so greatly did they outnumber our crew.
As it was, we got off barely in time, for it commenced to "blow great guns" about the time we got afloat, which created such a sea as would soon have knocked us to pieces, and even before we had way on, the surf was beating so violently upon the beach, as to have precluded all possibility of reaching the shore in an armed body.
Under double-reefed topsails we beat over to Amoy, and the next morning made the entrance to that port, but had to stand off and on the whole day and night, the sea being so high as to make it dangerous to attempt to enter the harbor.
Amoy—Its Trade—Cause of Decay—Infanticide—Manner of destroying Female Infants—China Woman's Confession—Environs—British and American Cemeteries—The Fatal Rock—Koo-lung-Seu—Chinese Gunnery—Chinese Customs—Marriage—Death—Manner of Mourning—Pagoda of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan.
On the morning of the 29th of May, came into the port of Amoy and anchored. Communicated with our Consul, who stated that our commerce was very small at that point, and although it is connected with the tea district, but five American vessels had entered the port for the past two years.
Of all the "five ports," Amoy appears to have the least foreign trade, and notwithstanding its contiguity to the region of China, in which its principal article of export is produced, enjoys but little commerce.
This is in a measure to be attributed to the difficulty of entering its bay at all seasons, but is mainly caused by the apathy and lack of enterprise of its inhabitants. They appear to be less disposed to trade with foreigners than any other Chinese we visited, and in their shops were perfectly indifferent whether we became purchasers or not, using no exertions to effect sales. This was so opposite to what we had always found to be a prominent feature of Chinese character as to excite remark. In Canton, Macào, and Shanghae, they had pressed their wares upon us, but in Amoy you might examine the contents of a shop, without being importuned to purchase a single article.
The principal trade appeared to be in opium. There were two receiving ships in the bay, and from the general appearance of the people, would be led to suppose that a great deal of it was smoked by them, and this accounted for their apathy and want of energy.
It must end so, that this opium trade will be the ruin of China, for in its use it not only enervates the people, but it is procured by draining the country of the precious metals, and it may be fairly stated, that for every ounce of opium brought into the country, nearly its weight in Sycee silver has been extracted.
The town of Amoy presents the same features as Shanghae, and other Chinese cities: streets narrow and filthy, and dirt abundant, an equal number of offensive smells pervade the atmosphere, and as many disgusting sights offend the eye; beggars, to be sure, are not so common as at Shanghae, but the inhabitants have a squalid look, as if too lazy to beg. Infanticide—or if I may be allowed to coin a word for this peculiar kind of child murder on account of its being confined entirely to the female sex—"Puellacide" is said to prevail to a greater extent in this region than even in Canton itself. Whilst sons are considered an honor, and their growth looked upon as a matter of profit, the giving birth to a daughter is proportionably a disgrace, and the rearing of it a disadvantage, consequently the female infant is generally allowed but a few moments existence in "this breathing world," and is usually strangled by the hands of its unnatural mother immediately upon its birth. The manner in which this act is said to be performed, is by filling up the mouth of the babe with rice, and holding its nostrils closed with the hand until suffocation is produced.
It is hard to suppose that a mother can thus act towards her offspring, but it is known to be too true, and it may be a better fate than is reserved for many of the sex whose lives have been spared, for so useless an incumbrance are females considered in the families of the lower orders, and so little regard have their parents for them, that even before they grow up, they are often sold for the worst purposes.
A Chinese woman, who had been converted to Christianity, confessed, that in her ignorance, she had destroyed seven of her own infants, females of course, not considering the custom of her country, at that time, a crime.
Although there is but little to interest one in the town of Amoy, there are several pleasant places in its vicinity. Yet every where appeared the evidence of "decay's effacing fingers." On the opposite side of the bay was once a flourishing site, which previous to the attack of the English had been the residence of the wealthier citizens, mandarins, etc. When the British troops invested this place, they occupied these buildings as barracks; and being withdrawn after the treaty, left them in a ruinous condition. They have not been used since, and the large gardens, evidently at one time cultivated with much taste, have now run to waste. In these were romantic grottoes, in which are curiously carved resting-places, cut out of the rock.
The English burial ground is in this neighborhood; it is a small place, and walled in. The mortality amongst the troops was very great during the occupancy of this place, and this area is said to contain over a regiment of soldiers.
The American cemetery is more prepossessing in appearance. It is situated in a picturesque valley, full of beautiful trees, and did not contain many graves. From it there is a fine view of the bay and islands, and the city of Amoy.
In crossing the bay on our return, there was pointed out a singularly shaped rock in height about thirty feet, with a narrow base, and swelling out as it ascended, in appearance similar to a boy's top. The Chinese have a startling prophecy connected with it, which is, that when it shall fall, the present dynasty of China will also decline; reminding one of the Latin saying, "When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall." But Rome has fallen, and the Coliseum still stands! Will the parallel hold good between this rock and China? The island of Koo-lung-Seu, when the British made the attack upon Amoy, appears to have been well fortified, but the Chinese committed a great error in the training of their guns, or rather in placing them so as to have been unable to take any other range than point blank! Here is a fort mounting upwards of fifty guns of large calibre, which would have commanded the bay, but the embrasures are so small as barely to admit the muzzle of the gun, the breech of which was imbedded in the earth. These were soon silenced, as may well be supposed, by the attacking squadron taking a position beyond their range, and training their own batteries to bear upon the Chinese gunners within, who kept blazing away into the unresisting air, whilst the British riddled the fort at leisure. The mandarin in charge, a Tartar, who would not be caught, drowned himself.
From Mr. Bradley, our intelligent Consul at Amoy, who appears to have devoted much time to the study of the Chinese and their customs, obtained a great deal of information respecting them.
In regard to marriages, he stated, that when a Chinaman considers himself rich enough to take a wife, he informs the object of his choice by letter, which is usually a sheet of paper some five or six feet in length; this is shown to her parents, and if the match is thought a proper one, she is allowed to make known her compliance in a billet-doux of equal proportions. After this interchange, the father of the selected fair calls upon the proposing party to arrange preliminaries, amongst not the least important of which is the payment of a sum of money agreed upon between them; this fund is supposed to be for the furnishing of the bride.
The happy day is then appointed, and when it arrives a plentiful supply of edibles flows in from the friends of both families to the house of the bridegroom; from whence are dispatched a number of his friends to carry the bride to her future home; by these she is borne along in a sedan chair, closely veiled, accompanied by music, and is received by her future "lord and master" seated in state, and surrounded by the tablets of his ancestors; then for the first time in his life he beholds the face of the woman of his choice!
The marriage being consummated, three days succeeding are devoted to festivities.
When a woman has been so unfortunate as to become a widow, especially without male issue, she testifies her grief in every imaginable manner, filling the air with her lamentations, tearing her loosened hair, and giving all the demonstrations of the deepest sorrow. At each meal food is placed at the accustomed seat, and the absentee is entreated to return and partake in the most endearing terms. This is continued for a season, when, as if tired of entreaty so unavailingly lavished, and in the true spirit of her sex, the widow changes her tune, and commences to abuse the "dear departed." For one year this practice is kept up, after that, twice a month for three years; then only upon the anniversary of his death. Have not been apprised of any success having attended these applications, or whether the applicants were sincere in their expressions; but am rather inclined to doubt the sincerity of the mourner, excepting in cases where male issue is desired, and then their grief has a selfish motive.
There was an instance in a Chinese house opposite the Consulate, where a woman, who had been deprived of her partner by death, a short time previously, was calling him to breakfast, and deprecating his delay in no measured terms.
The Pagoda, or tower of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan, is a conspicuous object near Amoy. It is one thousand seven hundred and twenty-eight feet above the level of the sea, and an excellent mark for vessels making the harbor.
Formosa—Description of the Island—Its productions—Coal Mines—Metals—The Dutch Possessions—Their Expulsion—Proper policy of Civilized Powers.
The island of Formosa—from going on which we so narrowly escaped—is destined from its position and importance, to become, at a time not long future, a place of considerable trade for both Europeans and Americans, as it is now indeed with the Chinese of the neighboring provinces of Fo-Kien and Che-Kiang on the main land.
As its name implies, it is a "beautiful" island, especially on its southern extremity, which has been described as a fruitful garden, producing delicious fruits and grain of every description, and exporting vast quantities of rice, sugar, tobacco, and camphor.
The Chinese call it Te-wan; it extends between the degrees of twenty and twenty-six north latitude, is about fifty miles wide, and is separated from the province of Foo-Kien, of which it is a dependency, by a channel of from eighty to ninety miles in breadth.
It is equidistant from Japan and the Philippine Islands, being about one hundred and fifty miles from each, and appears to have been placed directly in the highway of commerce.
As yet it has been but little explored, and of its harbors, with the exception of Kelung, not much is known. This harbor is on its northern extremity, in latitude 25° 9' north of Greenwich, by a late observation. There is a good anchorage here for vessels drawing not over sixteen feet, and water and supplies can be obtained from the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, said to be very civil and obliging. They are principally engaged in fishing and the cultivation of the land, which is set down as luxuriant in the extreme.
Coal is said to be very abundant in this neighborhood, and many excavations have been made in the surrounding hills, some of them having been tunnelled over forty feet, and a distinct stratum exhibited of about four feet thick, hard and easily detached, lying between blue soft shale and sandstone. The quality of this coal was described by a person who visited the mines, to be very good, heavy, easily detached, igniting readily, and burning with a bituminous gassy flame, leaving a very small quantity of ashes of a reddish white color. From specimens which I have seen, do not suppose it equal to the English Cannel or our own Pittsburgh; but have known coal of a not much superior quality to have been produced from the first workings of mines in the valley of the Ohio, and who can say but that much better veins exist, of which these are but the openings?
In this however does not consist entirely the mineral wealth of this prolific island, and in the range of mountains which run through its centre is found gold and silver, iron ore and copper. Whilst in the valleys at their feet, the labors of the husbandman are bountifully rewarded in extensive crops of sugar and rice, so easily produced from the luxuriant soil of a southern latitude.
The Pang-hoo or Pescadore Islands, which lie between it and the province of Foo-Kien, compose with Formosa, one Foo, or department of that province, and are subject to its Foo-yuen or Governor. These dependencies are divided into six districts, five of which are within the limits of Formosa, the sixth comprising the Pescadore Islands.
But although the Chinese government asserts supremacy over Formosa, and subjects its inhabitants to tribute, yet amongst the aborigines are several tribes, which it has never been able to subdue, and who as yet successfully dispute its authority, overrun the peaceably disposed districts, and prevent this extensive island from being more thoroughly explored, and its vast resources fully developed. It was upon their inhospitable shore that we came near being cast, and from their tender mercies made so narrow an escape.
In the year 1624, the Dutch, being then powerful at sea, made an attack upon the Portuguese settlement at Macào; from which being repulsed, their Admiral sought refuge on Formosa, and taking possession of the Pescadore Islands, attacked Chinese junks, trading in those waters, and plundering them, disposed of their cargoes on the neighboring island of Japan.
By permission from the reigning dynasty of China, then tottering to its fall, they were allowed to establish a factory on the S. W. coast of Formosa, where they erected a fort, which they named Fort Zealand. This settlement became quite flourishing, from the fact that the disturbances on the main land drove numbers of the more peaceably disposed Chinese to the security of this new retreat on the beautiful island.
A number of Spaniards from Manilla, noting the advantageous position of the island, attempted a settlement on its northern side, but it was soon broken up by the Dutch, who drove them away, and held undisputed sway over it until 1644, when the Tartars conquered China, who naturally becoming jealous of this band of foreigners so near their shores, made arrangements with the celebrated Coxinga—son of him who had been educated by the Portuguese and baptized Nicholas—to repair to Formosa, and root out this growing power.
Having, by professions of peace, induced the Dutch Admiral sent for its protection to withdraw his forces and return to Batavia, he approached the settlement with a large force, and landing, was immediately joined by his countrymen the Chinese who had emigrated thither. With these added to his command, Coxinga demanded Formosa from the Dutch, requiring them to depart at once or "hoist the red flag," that is, prepare to fight. This they did, and after sustaining a siege of nine months, surrendered the fort, and were allowed to proceed to Java.
Had they conciliated the Chinese, who had come to live amongst them, they might have had their support, and retained possession of the island, but by barbarous treatment they had alienated them, so that Coxinga found in them willing allies.
Since the expulsion of the Dutch, there has been no attempt at settlement on this desirable island by any European power; which, when its fertility and position are considered, is somewhat remarkable. As I have before stated, its productions are distributed by Chinese junks, of which between two and three hundred are engaged in carrying rice to the neighboring provinces, and nearly one hundred are said to be employed in transporting the article of sugar alone to one single port in China, that of Tein-tsin. The trade between it and Canton is also said to be considerable, camphor being the principal export thence.
But if gain will not induce civilized powers to occupy this as yet undeveloped island, the cause of humanity should interest some such maritime nation as England or America, to at least chastise those barbarous savages who overrun its eastern shores; it is from these that many a peaceful mariner, coasting them in trading voyages, having been caught in those dreadful Typhoons which ravage those seas, and thrown helpless into their hands, has met with a cruel and torturing death, and from the fact of numberless shipwrecks along that coast, of which no survivors have remained, it is but fair to judge that the hapless crews have only escaped the angry waters, to meet a more violent end on these inhospitable shores. An instance occurred in the crew of the "Larpent," an English merchant vessel, which went ashore here, about the time we passed the island, of which but four escaped, and these by a miracle. They saw their unfortunate shipmates lanced, and decapitated, and themselves, being hotly pursued, escaped in their boat, and landing at a point unobserved, were, whilst pushing their way to the interior, captured and sold as slaves, from which condition they were released by a chief from another part of the island, and put on board the "Antelope," an opium clipper, which brought them to Shanghae.
Leave Amoy—Arrive in Macào Roads—Live ashore—Well guarded—Night calls—Ventriloquist at Typa Fort—Ordered on board—Up to Whampoa—Clipper Ships—Over to Hong-Kong—Coronation day—Independence day—Hurried on board—The mail—Ty-foongs.
Came to anchor in Macào Roads on the 4th of June, having made the passage to Shanghae and back in just forty days, including stoppage there, at Amoy, and delay from getting aground on Formosa.
Left Amoy on the 31st of May, and ran down the coast with favoring breezes, nothing worth noting having occurred since our departure from the latter port.
Went ashore on the first opportunity, and found there awaiting our arrival several letters and packages of newspapers, which had reached by overland mail during our absence. This was indeed a treat, and repaid us for all the inconveniences of our voyage. A good piece of news also was received, to wit, that there was a probability of our leaving the station for home in the fall.
Suffering still from sickness, I was allowed to take up my lodgings on shore, and duly installed myself in apartments No. 7, Senate Square, where I witnessed the Governor's daily visit to the Senate house, and the relieving of the guard; but as all situations have their drawbacks, was greatly annoyed by the unearthly noises made by the sentries during the night. Not a person could pass, but he was hailed, and every half hour I was awakened by the guard yelling out some unintelligible words, which were caught up in every direction, in the most discordant tones, until echo herself grew hoarse and disgusted with the repetition. I was well guarded to be sure, but could have dispensed with the attention, and would have bargained for less honor, with an equal diminution of noise!
The Portuguese lay great stress upon these night calls; and at the Typa fort, where we lay, which but two or three soldiers garrison, it was said they had a ventriloquist, who sent the word Alerto, with various changes, throughout the works.
After one week's residence en grand seigneur, was obliged to give up my casa, and repair on board. Orders being to go up to Whampoa, about the confounded insurrection.
On the seventeenth of June, came to anchor in the "Reach" again, and found every thing as usual there, the standing joke of the Chinese having taken Canton not being realized.
Saw there some of the first of those Yankee clippers that have since almost monopolized the China carrying trade. The "Sea Serpent," bound for the United States, passed close to us, and a magnificent specimen of naval architecture she was. She excited a strong yearning for home, and gladly would I have exchanged on board of her.
These clippers, I then noted, were to effect a change in East Indiamen, such as would have been hooted at ten years ago. Then, speed was a secondary consideration, and capacity for carrying deemed the sine qua non. Now, speed is the object; and it has been proved, that in making quick trips, with a lesser cargo, in suitable seasons, the advantage is greater than in freighting larger vessels, that in consequence of their greater capacity sail slower.
The anniversary of our arrival in China came round whilst we lay at Whampoa, and I celebrated it by a trip to Canton, to make an official call upon our Chargé d'Affaires, and returned the same day.
Our only amusements here were strolling over the hills, and sauntering through Bamboo and Newtown—the novelty of which places having some time worn off—and passing away the evening at the bowling alleys, and billiard room, where prices were high and refreshments execrable. However, here we got exercise even at a high rate; and this exercise is considered so desirable, that persons from Canton—a distance of ten miles—resort to this place.
From Whampoa departed for Hong-Kong, where found a number of old friends. We arrived there upon Coronation day, which was being celebrated with all honor. The Queen—God bless her!—was toasted, and the healths of the King consort, and all the royal family drunk. In the evening, the devotion of her loyal subjects was expended in a brilliant display of fireworks, which was untimely quenched by a sudden shower.
Celebrated our own "Independence day" for the second time in China, whilst we lay in the harbor of Hong-Kong; and H. B. M. frigate Cleopatra, and brig Lily, were dressed, and fired national salutes with us;—a pretty compliment, and as it should be. An editor in Hong-Kong made it the subject of unseemly remark, but am confident he had not the countenance of one of his subscribers. A dinner was given in honor of the occasion at our Consul's. It was a splendid affair, several lady residents of Hong-Kong gracing the board with their presence. The gentlemen kept it up long after they had retired, and the union of the States was cemented,—representatives from nearly all being present,—amongst the hours