This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.

RECOLLECTIONS
OF A
TOUR MADE IN SCOTLAND
A.D. 1803

BY DOROTHY WORDSWORTH

Edited by J. C. Shairp

CONTENTS.

day		page
	Preface	ix
First Week.
1.	Left Keswick—Grisdale—Mosedale—Hesket Newmarket—Caldbeck Falls	1
2.	Ross Castle—Carlisle—Hatfield—Longtown	2
3.	Solway Moss—Enter Scotland—Springfield—Gretna Green—Annan—Dumfries	3
4.	Burns’s Grave	5
	Ellisland—Vale of Nith	7
	Brownhill	8
	Poem to Burns’s Sons	10
5.	Thornhill—Drumlanrig—River Nith	11
	Turnpike House	12
	Sportsman	13
	Vale of Menock	14
	Wanlockhead	15
	Leadhills	18
	Miners	19
	Hopetoun mansion	20
	Hostess	20
6.	Road to Crawfordjohn	22
	Douglas Mill	28
	Clyde—Lanerk	31
	Boniton Linn	33
Second Week.
7.	Falls of the Clyde	35
	Cartland Crags	40
	Fall of Stonebyres—Trough of the Clyde	43
	Hamilton	44
8.	Hamilton House	45
	Baroncleuch—Bothwell Castle	48
	Glasgow	52
9.	Bleaching ground (Glasgow Green)	53
	Road to Dumbarton	55
10.	Rocks and Castle of Dumbarton	58
	Vale of Leven	62
	Smollett’s Monument	63
	Loch Achray	64
	Luss	67
11.	Islands of Loch Lomond	71
	Road to Tarbet	75
	The Cobbler	78
	Tarbet	79
12.	Left Tarbet for the Trossachs	81
	Rob Roy’s Caves	82
	Inversneyde Ferryhouse and Waterfall	83
	Singular building	84
	Loch Ketterine	86
	Glengyle	88
	Mr. Macfarlane’s	89
13.	Breakfast at Glengyle	91
	Lairds of Glengyle—Rob Roy	92
	Burying ground	94
	Ferryman’s Hut	95
	Trossachs	96
	Loch Achray	101
	Return to Ferryman’s Hut	102
Third Week.
14.	Left Loch Ketterine	106
	Garrison House—Highland Girls	107
	Ferryhouse at Inversneyde	108
	Poem to the Highland Girl	113
	Return to Tarbet	115
15.	Coleridge resolves to go home	117
	Arrochar—Loch Long	118
	Parted with Coleridge	119
	Glen Croe—The Cobbler	121
	Glen Kinglas—Cairndow	123
16.	Road to Inverary	124
	Inverary	126
17.	Vale of Arey	129
	Loch Awe	134
	Kilchurn Castle	138
	Dalmally	139
18.	Loch Awe	141
	Taynuilt	143
	Bunawe—Loch Etive	144
	Tinkers	149
19.	Road by Loch Etive downwards	152
	Dunstaffnage Castle	153
	Loch Crerar	156
	Strath of Appin—Portnacroish	158
	Islands of Loch Linnhe	159
	Morven	160
	Lord Tweeddale	161
	Strath of Duror	163
	Ballachulish	164
20.	Road to Glen Coe up Loch Leven	165
	Blacksmith’s house	166
	Glen Coe	172
	Whisky hovel	174
	King’s House	175
Fourth Week.
21.	Road to Inveroran	180
	Inveroran—Public-house	182
	Road to Tyndrum	183
	Tyndrum	184
	Loch Dochart	185
22.	Killin	186
	Loch Tay	188
	Kenmore	189
23.	Lord Breadalbane’s grounds	193
	Vale of Tay—Aberfeldy—Falls of Moness	194
	River Tummel—Vale of Tummel	196
	Fascally—Blair	197
24.	Duke of Athol’s gardens	198
	Falls of Bruar—Mountain-road to Loch Tummel	201
	Loch Tummel	203
	Rivers Tummel and Garry	204
	Fascally	205
25.	Pass of Killicrankie—Sonnet	207
	Fall of Tummel	208
	Dunkeld	209
	Fall of the Bran	210
26.	Duke of Athol’s gardens	211
	Glen of the Bran—Rumbling Brig	212
	Narrow Glen—Poem	213
	Crieff	215
27.	Strath Erne	215
	Lord Melville’s house—Loch Erne	216
	Strath Eyer—Loch Lubnaig	217
	Bruce the Traveller—Pass of Leny—Callander	218
Fifth Week.
28.	Road to the Trossachs—Loch Vennachar	219
	Loch Achray—Trossachs—Road up Loch Ketterine	220
	Poem: ‘Stepping Westward’	221
	Boatman’s hut	222
29.	Road to Loch Lomond	223
	Ferryhouse at Inversneyde	223
	Walk up Loch Lomond	224
	Glenfalloch	226
	Glengyle	228
	Rob Roy’s Grave—Poem	229
	Boatman’s Hut	233
30.	Mountain-Road to Loch Voil	235
	Poem, ‘The Solitary Reaper’	237
	Strath Eyer	239
31.	Loch Lubnaig	240
	Callander—Stirling—Falkirk	241
32.	Linlithgow—Road to Edinburgh	242
33.	Edinburgh	243
	Roslin	245
34.	Roslin—Hawthornden	246
	Road to Peebles	247
Sixth Week.
35.	Peebles—Neidpath Castle—Sonnet	248
	Tweed	249
	Clovenford	251
	Poem on Yarrow	252
36.	Melrose—Melrose Abbey	255
37.	Dryburgh	257
	Jedburgh—Old Woman	260
	Poem	262
38.	Vale of Jed—Ferniehurst	265
39.	Jedburgh—The Assizes	267
	Vale of Teviot	268
	Hawick	270
40.	Vale of Teviot—Branxholm	270
	Moss Paul	271
	Langholm	272
41.	Road to Longtown	272
	River Esk—Carlisle	273
42.	Arrival at home	274
	APPENDIX	277
	NOTES	309
	ITINERARY	317

POEMS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE JOURNAL

1803.
	page
To the Sons of Burns, after visiting the Grave of their Father	277
At the Grave of Burns, 1803	278
Thoughts suggested the day following, on the Banks of Nith, near the Poet’s Residence	281
To a Highland Girl	113
Address to Kilchurn Castle, upon Loch Awe	285
Sonnet in the Pass of Killicrankie	207
Glen Almain; or the Narrow Glen	213
The Solitary Reaper	237
Stepping Westward	221
Rob Roy’s Grave	229
Sonnet composed at Neidpath Castle	248
Yarrow Unvisited	252
The Matron of Jedborough and her Husband	262
Fly, some kind Spirit, fly to Grasmere Vale!	274
The Blind Highland Boy	286
1814.
The Brownie’s Cell	298
Cora Linn, in sight of Wallace’s Tower	283
Effusion, in the Pleasure-ground on the banks of the Bran, near Dunkeld	294
Yarrow Visited	301
1831.
Yarrow Re-visited	304
On the Departure of Sir Walter Scott from Abbotsford, for Naples	307
The Trossachs	308

PREFACE.

Those who have long known the poetry of Wordsworth will be no strangers to the existence of this Journal of his sister, which is now for the first time published entire. They will have by heart those few wonderful sentences from it which here and there stand at the head of the Poet’s ‘Memorials of a Tour in Scotland in 1803.’ Especially they will remember that ‘Extract from the Journal of my Companion’ which preludes the ‘Address to Kilchurn Castle upon Loch Awe,’ and they may sometimes have asked themselves whether the prose of the sister is not as truly poetic and as memorable as her brother’s verse. If they have read the Memoirs of the Poet published by his nephew the Bishop of Lincoln, they will have found there fuller extracts from the Journal, which quite maintain the impression made by the first brief sentences. All true Wordsworthians then will welcome, I believe, the present publication. They will find in it not only new and illustrative light on those Scottish poems which they have so long known, but a faithful commentary on the character of the poet, his mode of life, and the manner of his poetry. Those who from close study of Wordsworth’s poetry know both the poet and his sister, and what they were to each other, will need nothing more than the Journal itself. If it were likely to fall only into their hands, it might be left without one word of comment or illustration. But as it may reach some who have never read Wordsworth, and others who having read do not relish him, for the information of these something more must be said. The Journal now published does not borrow all its worth from its bearing on the great poet. It has merit and value of its own, which may commend it to some who have no heart for Wordsworth’s poetry. For the writer of it was in herself no common woman, and might have secured for herself an independent reputation, had she not chosen rather that other part, to forget and merge herself entirely in the work and reputation of her brother.

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Recollections of a Tour Made in Scotland A.D. 1803

RECOLLECTIONS OF A TOUR MADE IN SCOTLAND A.D. 1803

CONTENTS.

POEMS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE JOURNAL

PREFACE.

RECOLLECTIONS
OF A
TOUR MADE IN SCOTLAND
A.D. 1803