SPIRÆA CANESCENS (syn. flagelliformis).
Spiræas.—Another beautiful and interesting class for effect either in summer or winter, when sufficiently large plantations are made and properly treated. The whole of these should be planted at a distance of 2 feet apart, on deeply-trenched and well-manured ground. The North-West American Spiræa Douglasi, though one of the most common, is unsurpassed for its distinct and beautiful wood during autumn and winter, but the only way to see it at its best is to cut it clean to the ground every year during the last week in March. It will then produce young strong growths from 4 to 5 feet in height, each of which will furnish fine heads of deep-pink flowers during summer, and its beautiful, warm-looking, nut-brown wood in winter is among the most richly toned of all the barks which are used to produce effect, and yet when grown in the ordinary way, and partially pruned down, as we in nearly all cases see it, it produces miserable flowers, and the wood is uninteresting. About every third or fourth year after pruning give a surface dressing of half-decayed manure and loam in equal proportions. The prunings should be tied up and saved for staking purposes; they are of the utmost value for all kinds of slender-growing plants. S. callosa also makes a fine bed, and is very effective during late summer; its large heads of deep-pink flowers render it most conspicuous; they are produced when the others are past their best. It should be cut to the ground every third year. S. prunifolia flore-pleno is a very beautiful form, flowers freely in March and April, and its foliage assumes lovely tints in the autumn. It is of very graceful habit, and well suited for banks or overhanging rocks. It should be moderately pruned each year, and when it attains to a leggy appearance cut hard back. S. canescens (syn. flagelliformis) makes splendid beds owing to the pretty arrangement of the foliage. This should be pruned to the ground annually.
Symphoricarpus racemosus (the Common Snowberry) is generally regarded as an almost worthless plant, but when in a sunny open position on well-trenched land and cut close to the ground each year, large beds are most attractive in autumn and winter, as by such treatment the growths will become thickly studded with pure white fruits. S. orbiculatus variegatus is a very pretty, somewhat slow-growing golden-leaved shrub, and should be planted in an open position. It has a tendency to revert back to the green form. Shoots of the type should be kept cut away. This should be slightly pruned in spring, and when leggy cut to the ground.
Berberis (syn. Mahonia) aquifolium, or Holly-leaved Barberry, is too well known to need much description. It is one of the most useful and accommodating of shrubs, and will succeed in almost any soil, and either in the open or under the shade of trees is quite at home. For clothing banks few things can equal it, and when thus used should be pruned close to the ground after flowering. It should be planted when in a small state 18 inches apart, choosing the beginning of April for the purpose. It should be cut to the ground each year after planting.
Box.—The entire Box family is excellent for grouping when the soil is suitable, but it is waste of time to attempt planting it in large quantities unless the position and soil agree with it. A light surface, with a chalky subsoil, is what it enjoys.
Laurels.—The two best Laurels are Prunus Laurocerasus caucasica, the hardiest of the whole family, and rotundifolia. The former may be severely pruned and is excellent for clothing large bare places, mounds, or banks; rotundifolia is a splendid variety with larger foliage, but not so hardy. The ground in which these Laurels are to be planted should be trenched or bastard trenched, and small plants be planted 3 feet apart all ways. To keep them in condition, prune hard down during the growing season twice, if not three times, when they will remain in good health for many years. Prunus lusitanica (Portugal Laurel) is happy in heavy soils, and its beautiful dark-green leaves are very telling. This should also be planted in trenched ground at a distance of 5 feet apart, and pruned once only during the year. So treated, splendid beds are formed when suitable positions are chosen.
Cotoneaster buxifolia or Wheeleri, is a fine strong-growing evergreen for almost any soil. It is well adapted for making beds, covering large boulders or the old roots of trees, and for covering ugly iron fencing. C. buxifolia is a graceful and pleasing plant when covered with its bright berries, and allowed to assume its natural habit. Plant 3 feet apart, merely thinning out the growths occasionally.
Cotoneaster microphylla.—A very charming shrub, and when planted on a raised position, or on overhanging rocks, tree roots, and such like, forms beautiful masses, especially when thickly studded with its crimson berries. It sometimes becomes badly infested with brown scale, but this is easily got rid of by applying a strong solution of soft soap and water with a syringe.
Ilex aquifolium (the Common Holly).—The Holly is one of the very finest of our evergreens for bold planting. Fortunately, it is one of the few evergreens that will succeed and grow luxuriantly under the drip of trees, where many other things fail. Large breadths of Holly in good health are a pleasure to look at at all seasons of the year, particularly when well laden with bright-scarlet berries. The Holly is seen at its best on light, well-drained soils, that of a stiff clayey nature (especially so when water-logged) being the most unfavourable to its growth. Fortunately, it will adapt itself to any mode of pruning, but unquestionably the best way to treat it is to plant in large bold clumps, allowing it to grow away at its own sweet will. Many of the more uncommon varieties, both green and variegated, make highly attractive groups and beds, and where expense is of little object should most certainly be planted.
Rhododendrons.—Of course, one must possess a suitable soil to plant the more beautiful varieties in any quantity; nevertheless, the common R. ponticum and hybrid seedlings, of which there are now fortunately a great variety, will succeed in nearly all soils free from lime. The ground should be thoroughly broken up during autumn, and the planting done 4 feet apart in the spring. The seed-vessels should be picked off after flowering, and the plants are much benefited by an occasional top-dressing of road grit and leaf soil. Even here on a cold London clay, where the ground has been well drained and treated as above, they succeed very well.
Ruscus aculeatus (Butcher's Broom), a native of this country, is invaluable for planting in shady, sheltered spots. It appears to enjoy the drip from other trees, and is very accommodating as to soil and position, but likes to remain undisturbed. Ruscus racemosus, which is a native of Portugal, and commonly called the Alexandrian Laurel, is unquestionably the best of the Ruscus family, and its growth very much resembles that of the Bamboo. It is rarer than the commoner kinds, but it deserves extended cultivation, being worth a good position in any part of the gardens or grounds. It berries freely in some seasons. It lasts remarkably well, and is very handsome in a cut state. It enjoys a deep rich loam, but will not fail to give a good account of itself on any soil.
Juniperus Sabina tamariscifolia is a beautiful shrub for the fringe of a plantation, it is of robust growth, and the best of the Junipers for this planting.
Taxus baccata aurea variegata and elegantissima (the Golden Yew) are most effective evergreen shrubs. They should be planted in open sunny positions. Without doubt elegantissima has no rival, being the most useful and telling golden evergreen shrub we have. It is of somewhat slow growth, consequently should be planted fairly thick. Like the Common Green Yew, it succeeds in almost any kind of soil, but it colours best on a deep yellow loam in a thoroughly exposed position.
Ulex europæus (Common Gorse or Whin).—This common British plant needs little description here. When seen in its wild state, where it is thoroughly naturalised, it presents a most charming sight. Half-wild patches of land may easily be made suitable for it at little expense. During winter the land should either be ploughed or dug, and the seed sown during April, either in drills or broadcast, and the seedlings thinned to a fair distance apart during the following spring. When once thoroughly established, little trouble will be experienced in keeping the ground well stocked. Occasionally, when the old plants become leggy, they should be cut close to the ground immediately after flowering, and in a short time these will break away freely from the bottom. Ulex europæus flore-pleno is an invaluable plant for all kinds of ornamental planting, and is struck from cuttings, which are potted up. In this way the plants are distributed; nevertheless, it is a most important plant to have. The flower is a much brighter yellow than the common form, is produced more freely, and lasts a considerable time in beauty. It is very suitable for either making beds or forming large patches of colour behind rocks and among the fissures of the rock garden. It should be planted about 3 feet apart, in fairly good ground, and about every fifth year pruned down close to the ground.
Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus).—A beautiful evergreen flowering shrub, and generally well known, but unfortunately it is not sufficiently hardy to plant in many parts of the country, especially in exposed positions. It will grow and flower profusely in very shallow and, indeed, in almost any soil. It makes a handsome bed, and should be planted 4 feet apart.
The Hon. Vicary Gibbs has taken keen interest in the tree and shrub planting in the gardens of Aldenham House.
The best and best known of our good hardy climbing shrubs are by no means neglected, but yet they are not nearly as much or as well used as they might be. Such a fine thing as the easily-grown Clematis montana will not only cover house and garden walls with its sheets of lovely bloom, but it is willing to grow in wilder ways among trees and shrubs, where its natural way of making graceful garlands and hanging ropes of bloom shows its truest and best uses much better than when it is trained straight along the joints of walls or tied in more stiffly and closely. Even if there are only a few stiff bushes such as Gorse or low Thorns to support and guide it, it gladly covers them just as does the Traveller's Joy (Clematis Vitalba) of our chalkland hedges. This climber, though a native plant and very common in calcareous soils, is worthy of any garden. C. V. rosea is a very fine variety. Clematis Flammula is another of the family that should be more often treated in a free way, and grown partly trained through the branches of a Yew or an Ilex. The less-known Clematis orientalis, with yellow flowers and feathery seeds, and the fine October-blooming C. paniculata, make up five members of one family, apart from the large-flowered Clematises, that all lend themselves willingly to this class of pictorial treatment.
CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER ROUGH WALL.
One of the most important of our climbing shrubs, the Wistaria, makes grand growth in all the south of England. This also can be used to excellent effect trained into some rather thinly-furnished tree such as an old Acacia. Its grey snake-like stems and masses of bloom high up in the supporting tree are shown to excellent effect. This is also a fine plant for a pergola. A few plants growing free and rambling full length would, after the first few years, when they are getting old, cover a pergola from end to end. The piers or posts could also be covered with the same, for though the nature of the plant is to ramble, yet if kept to one stem and closely pruned it readily adapts itself to pillar form, and bears a wonderful quantity of bloom.
CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER ARCHWAY.
Among the Grape Vines there is a great variety of ways of use other than the stiff wall training they generally receive. If they are wanted for fruit they must be pruned, but most outdoor Vines are grown for the beauty of their foliage. Here is another first-class pergola plant, making dense leafy shade, and growing in a way that is delightfully pictorial. Nothing looks better rambling over old buildings. Now that so many once prosperous farms are farms no longer, and that their dwelling-houses are being converted to the use of another class of occupier, the rough out-buildings, turned into stabling, and adapted for garden sheds, often abut upon the new-made pleasure-garden. This is the place where the Vines may be so well planted. If the main stem only is trained or guided it is well to leave the long branches to shift for themselves, for they will ramble and dispose themselves in so pictorial a way that the whole garden is bettered by their rioting grandeur of leaf mass.
Aristolochia Sipho, with its twining stems and handsome leaves, will, like the Vine and the Virginian Creeper, answer to all these uses of jungle-like growth among trees and shrubs and free climbing in hedge, over pergola or rough building.
The employment of the climbing and rambling Roses is also now understood for all such uses, and the illustration shows the value of the Dutch Honeysuckle for this purpose.
A rough hedge containing perhaps only a few Thorns and Hollies and stub Oaks, and a filling of Wild Brambles, may be made glorious with the free hardy climbers just guided into the bushes and then left to ramble as they will.
In the growth of the rarer and most distinct and beautiful of climbing shrubs one must in the main be guided by the natural surroundings of soil and shelter or by climatic conditions. In the cold midland and northern districts of England we have seen common Laurels and many Roses killed to the ground during severe winters.
In Hampshire, Devon, and Cornwall, and in many other isolated and sheltered nooks near the sea in England south of the Thames, many so-called cool greenhouse plants often grow and thrive luxuriantly in the open air. This is also true of many localities in the south and west of Ireland, such as Fota, Cork, Bantry, and Tralee, where New Zealand, Japanese, Californian, and many Chilian shrubs are quite happy in the open air. Nearly all visitors to Glengarriff notice the luxuriance of the Fuchsias, which, not being cut down there every winter by severe frosts, assume more or less of a tree-like aspect, and are literally one mass of brilliant coral-red flowers during summer and autumn. But it is even more wonderful to see there growing up the front of the hotels and elsewhere such plants as Maurandya, Lophospermum, Mikania, and Cape Pelargoniums year after year. But, apart from mild climates, aspect has an enormous effect on many climbing shrubs, and especially on light dry soils. Lapageria, for example, prefers a northern exposure, and the same is true of Berberidopsis corallina, and the remarkable Mutisia decurrens. Many climbers and trailers, again, are hardy on north or north-western walls that are ruined by bright sunshine after frost, which is often experienced on south and especially south-western exposures. Even when climbers like Wistaria, Jasminum nudiflorum, Ceanothus, Pyrus and many others are perfectly hardy on sunny walls it is often a great advantage to train a few branches over the top of the wall to the shady side, as in these cases there is a week or ten days or more difference in the time of blooming, and so an agreeable succession is obtained.
In planting both walls and pergolas there is danger in planting too thickly, and in planting too hurriedly or without sufficient preparation. We all must perforce often do the best we can rather than the best we know. Large-growing, permanent shrubs, such as Pyrus japonica, Wistaria, and Magnolias, which may remain in the same spot for twenty years or more, often fail through starvation, and in any case never attain their full luxuriance and beauty if cramped and stunted during the first few years after planting. Again, it must be remembered that both wall and pergola creepers often suffer from dryness during the summer and autumn months, and provision should be made for necessary mulching and watering.
There is one important point that must be attended to in the planting of anything of which the general hardiness is not fully assured, and that is, never plant late in autumn. The golden rule with all half-hardy things is to plant well in April or May, after all danger from severe frost, &c., is over, so as to allow the plants a long summer and autumn season of root and top-growth before the stress and strain of winter weather come upon them. In this way many plants will succeed perfectly in establishing themselves that would at once die off if planted out in October or November.
Abelia.—A. floribunda is a Mexican plant. Mr. Burbidge writes in the Garden, April 14, 1900, p. 272: "I have seen it very handsome in flower on a low wall at Mount Usher, county Wicklow. Its pendent flowers in axillary clusters are of a rich purple red, and remind one of some Fuchsias." A. chinensis, a Chinese plant, is very pretty, as also is A. triflora from North India.
Abutilon.—Several of the Abutilons are sufficiently hardy to thrive on walls or in borders near to heated plant-houses. Mr. Burbidge writes in the Garden: "I have seen A. striatum, A. vexillarium, and A. vitifolium grow and bloom for years outside. The last-named forms a spreading bush 10 to 13 feet high in South, West, and Eastern Ireland. It has leaves somewhat resembling those of the Grape Vine, and clusters of pale-lilac, mauve, or lavender-tinted flowers that remind one of those of Meconopsis Wallichi in shape, size, and colour. A. vitifolium comes from Chili, and enjoys shelter and ample root moisture, being apt to suffer from drought near walls, otherwise it grows well thereon." Abutilon vexillarium, when afforded the protection of a south wall, blooms for eight months out of the twelve, bearing on slender, curving shoots its handsome, bell-shaped flowers with their crimson sepals, yellow petals, and protruding dark-brown stamens well into the month of December should no severe frost occur. Florists' varieties of the Abutilon, such as Boule de Neige, also do well on sheltered walls.
Adlumia cirrhosa.—This grows quickly, and the fern-like leaves, covering almost the twining stems, possess much beauty; the flowers are white. A biennial, but sows itself freely. North America.
Akebia quinata.—A most distinct Japanese creeper with five-lobed leaves and twining stems; although generally grown in a greenhouse, where it flowers in January or February, it is quite hardy in mild sea-shore places, and bears its monœcious flowers in April or May. The rich wine-purple flowers are borne in axillary grape-like clusters, and their translucent petals are very beautiful as seen between the eye and the light. It likes a rich, deep, loamy soil, and is increased by suckers or layers. Although introduced to our gardens from Chusan in 1845, it has never become very abundant, but it deserves a place for its distinctive character.
Aloysia citriodora (Sweet Verbena).—Another popular name for the Aloysia is Lemon plant; it is a fragrant pale-green leaved bush, not very hardy, and therefore best placed when against a sunny wall. Except in quite the south of England and Ireland, it is generally wise to cover over the stems with a straw mat and heap ashes over the roots. It is often seen as a large bush against the sea. We have seen it thus on the Carnarvon coast. Chili.
Ampelopsis.—Now included with the Vines (Vitis).
Apios tuberosa.—This has pea-shaped violet-scented flowers. It is sometimes pretty rambling over a shrub. North America.
Aristolochia Sipho (Dutchman's Pipe).—Frequently planted against a wall; its leaves are very large and handsome, and the dull-coloured flowers, owing to their shape, have given rise to the popular name.
Atragene alpina.—A hardy wall climber, and known under the name of Clematis alpina. It enjoys a lime soil. A native of Europe.
Azara.—The best known of these is A. microphylla; it is not one of the hardiest of shrubs, but in many gardens, especially where sheltered and by the sea, it covers much space with dense glossy leaves; the flowers are white, small, and give place to orange-coloured berries in autumn. It is quite a shrubby wall plant.
Benthamia fragifera.—Now known as Cornus capitata, but in gardens its old name will long be retained. In Devon, Cornwall, and in Wicklow, Cork, and Kerry, and elsewhere in Ireland, this fine shrub flowers and fruits luxuriantly as a bush on the border or lawn, but in less favoured places it needs the warmth and shelter of a wall. It is a native of Nepaul, and is readily increased from home-grown seeds, and the plant, like all its allies, is a rapid grower in any deep, rich, loamy soil. Quite small bushes of this plant and the common Arbutus Unedo are often very handsome as seen laden with fruit in South and Western Ireland.
Berberidopsis corallina.—Mr. Burbidge writes in the Garden: "The finest specimen of this beautiful and distinct evergreen climber I ever saw was on the stable wall at Lakelands, Cork, when that noble place was in the hands of the late Mr. William Crawford, a great lover of garden vegetation. It is a native of the Chilian Andes, introduced in 1862. It likes a deep peaty soil or loam and leaf-mould on a moist bottom, and, like the Lapageria and its dwarf cousin Philesia, it enjoys a northern or shaded aspect, rarely thriving for long together in full sunshine. Its flowers resemble those of the Berberis, but are much larger, have pendent stalks, and are of the brightest coral-red or blood colour. It grows and flowers here in a shaded corner under an ivy-topped wall."
Bignonia capreolata.—This is the hardiest of the Bignonias. It needs a warm wall, and there is much beauty in the warm, reddish-orange, trumpet-shaped flowers, which are in clusters from April to August. It grows to a considerable height. North America.
Billardiera longiflora.—This is the Apple Berry of Tasmania, and is of elegant twining habit, its greenish-yellow flowers, which are not very showy, being succeeded by handsome blue berries that are very ornamental, and are similar in shape and size to Fuchsia fruits. The plant is closely related to the Pittosporums of New Zealand, and grows 2 or 3 feet in height. There are two or three other kinds, but none prettier than B. longiflora. It grows best in moist peat and sandstone, at the foot of a half-shaded wall.
Calystegia.—Also known as Convolvulus. C. pubescens fl. pl., the double Bindweed, is more useful for rough stumps than walls, but may be included; the flowers are double, of rosy colouring, and large, and appear during the summer and into the autumn. It is best in warm, well-drained soil.
Camellia.—Mr. Scrase-Dickins writes in the Garden, March 30, 1901, p. 227, as follows about these little-understood hardy shrubs: "The best Camellias for planting out of doors in the open air are those which bloom late and start late into growth, such, for instance, as Chandleri elegans or Anemonæflora; the varieties with broad roundish leaves appear to grow in more robust fashion than those having narrow pointed ones with a serrated edge, though the latter will make sometimes very compact bushes. It is possible that the sorts with dark-red flowers are hardier than those with pink. The old double white seems to stand the cold well enough, but it hides its flowers rather too much among the foliage to make any effective display of them, though in this way they are often secured from frost or bad weather and made serviceable for cutting. To train against a trellis or wall Doncklaarii is very good, and next to reticulata one of the most beautiful when well grown, blooming so freely.
"Camellias appear to grow in almost any aspect, but are naturally sun lovers; and though preferring peat, they will do in most other soils, provided that there is no lime present. The points of the young roots are very sensitive to drought, so should be protected until well established, by light mulching or a surrounding growth, from the risk of being withered up by a fierce sun striking the ground in which they are starting. Unlike many other shrubs, they seem to have the advantage of being exempt from the destructive attention of rabbits; perhaps when snow is on the ground they might be barked, but I do not remember to have noticed it. Apart from the question of varieties, it may be well to draw attention to the fact that only strong healthy plants should be turned out, for sickly specimens from a conservatory or greenhouse are very slow indeed to make a start, and will remain sometimes for an astonishing number of years in almost the same pitiable state."
Ceanothus.—Beautiful wall shrubs. They cannot be regarded as quite hardy, but C. azureus in a garden near London has mounted almost to the chimney stacks; a surface of foliage, and in the appointed season pale-blue flower clusters. The soil is light and the aspect due south; and in cold, sunless places the Ceanothuses, it is well to remember, utterly fail. A warm soil and sunny place suit the shrubs well. Gloire de Versailles, Lucie Simon, and pallidus are amongst the best of the others. Of other species, C. veitchianus, deep blue, is very beautiful; and C. dentatus and C. papillosus are also noteworthy.
Chimonanthus fragrans (Winter-sweet).—The variety grandiflorus has larger flowers and of a clearer shade of citron yellow than those of the type, and though the plant is bare of leaf the blossoms make a brave show, and may be descried against a well-toned brick wall from some little distance. It is just as well to bear in mind that this is one of the shrubs which bloom on the young wood, and any pruning or cutting out of useless branches that may be necessary should be done in early spring when the flowers are over, for if it be delayed there will be no flowers next year. It may be raised from seed, but seedlings vary greatly.
Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower).—Very vigorous, shrubby, glossy, green-leaved plant; rather tender, but quite happy in northern gardens if not very exposed. Its clusters of flowers are very sweet and white.
Clematis (see p. 303).
Cotoneaster (see p. 80).
Diervilla.—May be grown against fences and even walls, but are better against the former. I saw a fence covered with the crimson-flowered Eva Rathke in a London garden, and flowered abundantly every year.
Eccremocarpus scaber.—Climber for wall, arch, or pergola, with reddish flowers. Protect the roots by coating the soil above them with ashes or some protective material.
Edwardsia (Sophora) tetraptera.—This is called the New Zealand Laburnum. A tree in its own country, but a shrubby wall plant here. Grandiflora is the best variety.
Escallonia (see p. 385).
Fuchsia.—The hardy Fuchsias are almost unknown, though amongst the most beautiful of hardy shrubs. My favourite is F. Riccartoni, but this often makes a good hedge. Very charming also are F. coccinea, F. corymbiflora, F. globosa, F. macrostemma, F. microphylla, F. splendens, and F. thymifolia.
Hablitzia tamnoides.—Better, perhaps, for arch, pergola, or tree stump than a wall, but in some cases it may be placed there. It is a vigorous climber, with misty masses of greenish flowers in summer and autumn. Not often seen.
Hedera (Ivy).—The Common Ivy when growing in an exposed position will often acquire a rich bronzy hue during winter, but in this respect individual plants vary a good deal, the smaller-leaved forms being as a rule the richest in colour.
The most marked in this respect, and one that from its neat, prettily-lobed leaves is well suited for use in making up button-holes, sprays, &c., is the variety atropurpurea, whose distinctive character is far more marked in winter than in summer. Hedera Helix minima must not be confounded with H. H. conglomerata, though at a certain stage of growth there is some similarity. A three-year-old specimen differs from the freer conglomerata form in that it grows more flat both as regards the twigs and the leaves on the twigs. It has more shining foliage of a deeper and more sombre green, with pleasing clouded tints, and further, as the name would suggest, it is a smaller plant in all its parts. It is a beautiful creeper for positions on the rock garden, and is one of the best surface plants, as through it bulbs may spear their growth and flowers without injury. H. H. pedata and H. H. gracilis, both charming varieties of the small-leaved Ivies, should be in every collection.
The uses to which Ivy may be put are innumerable, and with the many beautiful varieties that are now to be obtained their sphere of usefulness has considerably extended. One of the most picturesque methods of growing Ivy is to allow it to clamber over tree stumps placed here and there in suitable parts of the garden. Ivy banks also are very charming, and for carpeting the bare ground beneath the spreading branches of large trees nothing could be more suitable. For the latter purpose the shoots should be pegged down and kept in position so that they may take root. Suitable varieties for this purpose are H. dentata, H. rægneriana, rhombea, obovata, himalaica, pedata, palmata, lobata, &c.; but the best of all is an Ivy called Emerald green.
CAMELLIA, LEAF AND FRUIT (outdoors Cheshire).
Indigofera gerardiana.—During the late summer and early autumn this leguminiferous shrub is one of the most attractive of those that are then in flower. Its finely divided pinnate leaves are of a rich deep green, and almost fern-like in grace and luxuriance. It is, indeed, worth growing for their sake alone. About the end of June it commences to flower, produces its flower-spikes in the leaf-axils, and continues to do so until the middle of September. The flowers are pea-shaped, and borne on spikes 4 to 5 inches long. The colour is a bright rosy purple. The species is a native of the Himalaya, and its stems do not survive winters of even moderate severity. The root-stock is, however, perfectly hardy, and it sends up a thicket of young growths every spring 2 to 4 feet long, which flower the same summer. It is not suited for growing in large masses by itself, because it starts rather slowly, and the season is advanced before the space the plants occupy becomes furnished. But it is very suitable for the herbaceous border, or, still better, as an undergrowth beneath groups of taller, thinly-planted shrubs. It is happy also against a wall. Also known as I. floribunda.
Jasminum.—The White Jasmine (J. officinale) is too well known to describe. It is one of the best of the cheaper wall climbers. Affine is the best variety; it has larger flowers. J. humile (revolutum), although an Indian species, will succeed against a wall; it has yellow flowers and is evergreen. J. fruticans, another bushy species, may also be grown; its flowers are yellow, and succeeded by an abundance of round black berries which are very distinct and pleasing in winter. Of course, the beautiful, fragrant, yellow-flowered J. nudiflorum will not be omitted. The new J. primulinum has large yellow flowers in spring. Wants a wall.
Kerria japonica.—Sometimes grown against a wall, but an excellent bush for grouping, except in very cold and exposed gardens. The flowers are yellow and produced abundantly. It should be more grown. The double variety, K. j. flore-pleno, is frequently seen against cottage walls, and making a cloud of yellow from the double rosette-like flowers in early summer. The major form of this is the best.
DUTCH HONEYSUCKLE ON WALL.
Lonicera (Honeysuckle).—This is too well known to describe. The Honeysuckle of the hedgerow is as familiar as the Poppy of the cornfield. The common native Honeysuckle is Lonicera Periclymenum, the best variety of which is serotina, or late Dutch; it flowers into the autumn, and is of redder colouring. Belgica is the Dutch Honeysuckle and is of strong growth. L. Caprifolium is not a true native, but has become naturalised. Major is a distinct variety. Then there are the evergreen Trumpet Honeysuckles (L. sempervirens and varieties, minor being the best known; the flowers are scarlet and yellow). Plantierensis is a good hybrid with larger flowers. The Trumpet Honeysuckles are not so robust and free as the late Dutch, for example. The well-known variegated Japan Honeysuckle, L. japonica aureo-reticulata, should not be planted much; its small, green, yellow-netted leaves are pretty, but one quickly tires of their colouring. L. etrusca, orange yellow, and L. flava, which must have a warm place, may also be mentioned. Certain species are quite bushy in growth. L. tomentella has small pink flowers in July. L. fragrantissima blooms in winter and is a delightful wall Honeysuckle; its small white flowers are very fragrant. L. Standishii is also sweet scented. A plant or two of either kind near the windows is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The Honeysuckles are charming, and should be in every garden—at least one or other of them.
Magnolia.—M. grandiflora (evergreen) is generally grown against a wall. The large, glossy, green leaves and big, creamy, fragrant flowers are very handsome. M. conspicua (deciduous) I have also seen very beautiful against a wall, a mass of white in late spring. The flowers in this position are less likely to get damaged by frost and rain. Its varieties may be used in the same way, but the type is the best.
Olearia (see p. 405).
Passiflora cærulea.—Few climbing plants are more fascinating than the blue Passion Flower. It is, with its bluish flowers and orange, egg-shaped fruit, most happy against a warm wall, and is not the hardiest of climbers. The white variety, Constance Elliot, should be grown also.
Piptanthus nepalensis (Nepaul Laburnum).—This is a shrubby wall plant, and not a very important one. Its yellow flowers remind one of those of the Laburnum, and are borne in clusters.
POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM OVER FIR.
Polygonum baldschuanicum.—A beautiful shrubby climber, with clouds of white, pink-tinted flowers in summer and autumn. An illustration shows it clambering into a Fir tree near the rock garden at Kew. I have seen many poor forms in gardens, seedlings, and therefore to keep the true type, it must be increased by cuttings. If frost cuts the stems down in winter, new growths spring up in the following year. Its graceful flower masses are useful in the house. P. molle is not unlike it.
Prunus triloba is an excellent wall shrub (see illustration).
PRUNUS TRILOBA AGAINST SUNNY WALL AT KEW.
Punica (Pomegranate).—Both single and double.
Pyrus.—The Pyruses are described elsewhere in this book. P. (Cydonia) japonica and its many beautiful varieties, and P. Maulei are, however, more frequently grown against walls than any other members of the same family. Prunus triloba is an excellent wall shrub.
Raphiolepis ovata.—A very handsome plant.
Rosa (Rose) (see p. 342).
Rubus (see p. 450).
Smilax.—This group is not common in gardens, but is interesting. They are a change from the repetition of a few common things. S. rotundifolia is a very handsome large-leaved Smilax with shiny foliage, now and then met with as S. laurifolia or S. latifolia, from which, however, according to Mr. R. Irwin Lynch, of Cambridge, it is distinct. All the kinds of hardy Smilax form handsome leafy creepers for walls, but in our climate they rarely produce the rich clusters of red berries that often render them so attractive abroad.
Solanum.—S. jasminoides is the most popular flowering climber of the south-west, producing its white bloom-clusters for many months in succession. It is classed as deciduous in botanical dictionaries, but is rarely bare of leaves, except after severe frosts in the early months of the year. S. crispum and S. Wendlandi will also succeed in mild counties; the latter has very large bluish flowers.
Stauntonia latifolia (syn. Holbœllia latifolia).—This plant bears clusters of small greenish-white, highly-fragrant flowers in March, and often perfects seed-pods in the autumn. It is a rapid grower, and its leathery leaves are rarely affected by frost.
Stuartia pseudo-Camellia.—A rare and very beautiful flowering shrub now seldom seen in even the best of gardens. It is a native of Japan, the flowers being ivory white and perfectly cup-shaped, somewhat like a single White Camellia. S. pentagyna comes from North America, as also S. virginica, but the first-named is the finest and is worth a good deal of trouble to grow well. Planted in loam and peat and sand at the foot of a sunny and sheltered wall, the flowering shoots may be preserved intact during the winter. Perfect drainage is absolutely essential for the first-named.
Tricuspidaria hexapetala.—A very distinct and beautiful evergreen shrub, perhaps better known as Crinodendron Hookeri. It is a native of Chili, and grows 5 or 6 feet high, its stiff branches set with dark, shiny ovate leaves. The flowers are nearly globular, very fleshy, and rich crimson-red or cherry colour. In both co. Wicklow, at Mount Usher, and at Salerno, co. Dublin, this rare shrub is very luxuriant and beautiful. It grows well in deep, rich, moist loam or in peaty soils, and propagates readily by layers laid down under stones.
Viburnum.—Some of the Viburnums are handsome against walls, such as V. macrocephalum and the Chinese V. plicatum.
Vitis (Vine).—The Vines are the most graceful and beautiful of all climbers, and many of them are of glorious colour in autumn. The Virginian Creepers (Ampelopsis) are now grouped with the Vines. Of the American Vines, Vitis æstivalis, V. californica, beautiful autumn colour; V. cordifolia, the Northern Fox Grape (V. Labrusca), Southern Fox Grape (V. vulpina). The Virginian Creeper (V. quinquefolia) is, as is generally known, very showy in autumn. Of the Asiatic Vines, V. Coignetiæ is the most famous. It has very large leaves, which turn to a glowing crimson in autumn. It is a noble climber. V. heterophylla humulifolia has beautiful fruit, each berry about the size of a pea and turquoise blue; it likes a warm, sunny wall. V. (Ampelopsis) Veitchii is too well known to describe. V. Romaneti and V. vinifera, the Common Grape Vine, also deserve notice. Of the last-mentioned there are many beautiful varieties, such as Purpurea, Miller's Burgundy, Teinturier, with claret-coloured foliage, and the Parsley-leaved Vine. V. Thunbergi has very fine leaves, which turn crimson in autumn. The Vines should be seen in greater variety, and Messrs. Veitch's recent beautiful novelties planted too.
OLD WISTARIA AT HAMPTON COURT.
Wistaria.—Wistaria time is a pleasant season of the year. A few noble examples may be seen in the suburbs of London, especially at Kew and Hampton Court, where the trees must be a great age, while quite a fine plant is in the Royal Gardens, Kew, also. What may be achieved with this plant if some attention to its needs were forthcoming is not clear, for most of the Wistarias we see from time to time shift for themselves, and by the position they occupy must have large numbers of their roots in dusty, dry soil. In former days it was always the custom to plant this fine climber at the base of the dwelling-house wall, but now, with a fuller knowledge of its robust growth, its widely-extending branches, and equally its wide-rooting capacity, other positions may with advantage be secured for it. One example may be seen at Kew, where a fine plant covers a huge cage-like structure. Another good way would be to plant it to run over pergolas, and with Clematis to succeed the Wistaria, the effect would be distinctly good. W. sinensis, the mauve-flowered species, is the one usually planted. The variety alba is less robust, and does not flower so freely; it wants a warm place. The double variety is very beautiful when in perfection, but our experience is that it never flowers freely, and the raceme is often poor. W. multijuga has very long racemes, and is the Wistaria which gives so much beauty to the gardens in Japan. It is always a pleasure in Wistaria time to visit the Royal Gardens, Kew, and see the exquisitely coloured trails of flowers on this species; these trails measure between 2 and 3 feet in length. Rosea is a rose-coloured variety.