Having thus fitted each plug to its own hole, and marked it for identification, the pegs may be completed. Cut down each one, with the tenon saw, from k to x, and, with the chisel, pare down from j to k, first making it square and afterwards slightly rounding it, as shown in section of Fig. 4. With a sharp chisel cut round to the outside of the semicircle for the top of the peg. File this round and then cut the chamfer with the knife. File as required, and finish with sand-paper.
The pegs being thus made ready for fixing, clean the face of the board (Fig. 1) with the smooth plane, and the edges and chamfers with sand-paper. Then glue in each plug, using the try square to make sure that they project at right angles. Then put the whole away for not less than six hours, to allow the glue to set well. Then, as each plug has been purposely made slightly too long, saw off each projection at the back, and smooth the whole of the back with the plane, so effecting the finishing touches.
To avoid the necessity for nailing to the wall, get two pieces of hoop-iron about 11⁄2 in. long and 1⁄2 in. wide. To adapt each piece for its purpose, cut one end round and punch in a nail hole and two smaller screw holes, as shown in Fig. 1. With a chisel cut a neat recess for each iron so that it can be sunk flush with the back, as shown in Fig. 2, and, inserting the screws, the work will be complete.
(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 34, 20, 2, 1, 13, 41, 42, and 35.)
This is an especially good subject for straight sawing, straight planing, and nailing.
Cut from Deal a piece about 22 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. With the jack-plane face one side and one edge perfectly straight and true at right angles. Gauge-mark for 13⁄16 in. thick, and plane the rough side down to the gauge-line. Square one end with the plane, mark to length shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 22, cut with tenon saw to mark, and square the end with smooth plane. Then gauge-mark for thickness of lath shown in Fig. 4, and saw off a shade inside the gauge-lines. In like manner cut five laths, and plane each to the gauge line.
The laths being thus made, sufficient wood will be left for the supports. Make the width of the supports the same as that of the laths. After gauging and planing the supports to depth as Fig. 4, saw off to the 6-in. length. Square the ends with a chisel and set out on each the distance a a, Fig. 3. Gauge to b b, Fig. 4, and with the tenon saw, cut to the gauge-line at a a, and with the knife remove the piece between a and a. Then mark on each lath the distance the supports are from each end of the laths, and nail on the laths—the outside laths first, then the centre one, and finally the other two.
(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, 3, 5, 41, and 42.)
Cut from Deal two pieces, one 12 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 11⁄4 in. thick; the other 18 in. long, 31⁄4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.
The former piece is for the laths, and it must be prepared and cut as in No. 22, making each lath to finish 1 in. wide, 1⁄2 in. thick, and 103⁄4 in. long.
The wood for the support must now be proceeded with. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, and gauge-mark for width of 3 in. and thickness of 17⁄8 in. Plane the rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks. Then saw through the centre so as to make two pieces of 7⁄8 in. thickness each. Place the pieces side by side, and nail them together with two 11⁄2-in. wrought nails, so that both pieces can be operated upon together. Then draw on one outer side the diagram shown on the unshaded part of Fig. 1 of drawings No. 23, and, with the aid of try-square and compasses, repeat the diagram on the other outer side. Then cut off each end nearly to the end lines of the diagrams, and, with the smoothing plane, finish at perfect right angles. Then, with a 5⁄8-in. centre-bit, drill at the spots marked a a on each diagram, penetrating on one side a little more than an inch, and finishing by drilling from the other side in precise unison. The drilling throughout must be exactly vertical. Then proceed with the arch shown in Fig. 1, with the turning saw cutting out the three semicircles, which finish with gouge and file, taking care to maintain right angles at every point. Then separate the pieces, smooth each face with the smoothing plane, and the circular parts with file and sand-paper.
The respective parts being now complete, mark on each lath the distance the supports are from the ends shown in Fig. 2. Then nail on the laths, b b first, c next, and the others afterwards. Then, having first taken care to punch down all the nails sufficiently, plane a few shavings off the tops of the laths to make them clean and level.
*** If the laths are well and truly nailed on, their ends should be in perfect line. Any defect in that respect must be remedied by carefully and judiciously planing; but the perfection of work is when no such planing is necessary.
(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, 3, 5, 41, and 42.)
This is made partly in hard and partly in soft wood.
For the handle, cut from Beech a piece 8 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 7⁄8 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge. Then gauge-mark for 11⁄2 in. wide and 3⁄4 in. thick, and plane the rough side and edge down to each gauge-mark. Then draw on one side the diagram of the handle shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 24. With the turning saw, cut to the inner and outer lines of the diagram. With the plane, round the top of the handle, as shown in Fig. 1, and, with the knife, round and smooth the other parts, taking care that all the right angles are strictly maintained. Then, with an 1⁄8-in. centre-bit, drill a hole for each screw, as shown in the Fig., and, with the knife, counter-sink for the heads of the screws. With the knife, make the chamfers at the corners of the curves, as shown in Fig. 2, and finish completely with scraper and sand-paper.
The handle being thus finished, cut from Deal a piece 24 in. long, 61⁄2 in. wide, and 5⁄8 in. thick, and plane one side and one edge at right angles. Gauge-mark for 6 in. wide, and 1⁄2 in. thick, and plane the rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks. Square one end, measuring from that end, saw off at 9 in. On the larger piece remaining, draw the lines a b and a b in the positions shown in Fig. 2; then, with the compasses, set off the spaces from a to c and from a to c, b to c and b to c, a to d and a to d, b to d and b to d. Then set the gauge to half the thickness, and with it mark the edges on the four places indicated in each case from c to d. Set the bevel to the oblique line at each side of the dovetails, and transfer this bevelled line to each side at points c c c c and d d d d. Then, with tenon saw, cut down each line c d to the depth of the gauge line, and, with a small chisel, remove the whole of the pieces between the nicks made by the saw. This will result in two grooves for dovetailed tongues, as shown above, a a in Fig. 1, designed to strengthen and prevent from warping the upper half of the holder.
The grooves having been thus made ready, the dovetails must be prepared. From Deal cut two pieces, each 9 in. long, 21⁄2 in. wide, and 3⁄4 in. thick. Plane one side of each and bevel one edge to the pitch the bevel was previously set for. Then, on the planed side, mark 21⁄4 in. at one end, 11⁄4 in. at the other end, and take to that width, afterwards bevelling the edge as before. Then fit each of the tongues provided, driving them tight into their places. When they fit exactly, glue the planed side and the edges, and drive them to their positions, being careful not to split off the ends. Then allow time for the glue to set, and cut off the projecting ends of the tongues and plane them and the face of the board to a level. Cut off to exact length, measuring from the lines a b. Then smooth both boards with the plane, nail them together with two small nails, and square the ends. Then gauge and nick with the saw for the recesses e e, removing the wood from each recess with the knife, so making grooves for a strap to pass round. Then screw on the handle in the manner indicated by both Figs., and finish as required with sand-paper.
(Requiring Exercises 5, 19, 12, 9, 10, 32, 15, 33, 29, 14, 26, 28, 22, 49, 31, 1, 6, 16, 13, and 24.)
Cut from Beech a piece 16 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 4 in. thick. The manner of proceeding resembles that required for No. 17. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, and draw on the planed side the diagram shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 25. With a 11⁄4-in. centre-bit, drill two holes right through, as indicated by the dotted circles. Saw round the outside lines of the diagram, taking care not to obliterate the lines. Trim exactly to the lines with a chisel, gouge, and file. Then mark on each edge the upper curved line of Fig. 1. Saw to that line without obliterating it, finishing with spokeshave, plane, chisel, and file. Then cut out the bowl of the ladle, using a small gouge for the edge, and a larger one for obtaining the depth, which must be governed by the white section shown in Fig. 3, and finished with file, scraper, and sand-paper before proceeding with the under side. When the bowl is thus finished, mark on each side the curve for the under side shown in Fig. 1. Saw just outside the line, and proceed to shape the under side—the bowl to the shaded section of Fig. 3, and the handle to the section of Fig. 4. For finishing the bowl, fix the handle in the bench screw, and pare with a wide chisel, afterwards applying the knife for completing the bowl and handle. For the finishing touches use the file, scraper, and sand-paper.
END.
TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.