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Title: Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume I

Author: Ritter von Karl Scherzer

Commentator: Alexander von Humboldt

Release date: December 31, 2011 [eBook #38456]
Most recently updated: December 15, 2023

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Thorsten Kontowski, Henry Gardiner and the
Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
(This file made from scans of public domain material at
Austrian Literature Online.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE NOVARA, VOLUME I ***

Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been faithfully replicated except as listed here.

Preface   Table Of Contents   List Of Illustrations   Pre-Cruise Comments by A. V. Humboldt   Appendices   Advertisements
Eastward track around the world. CHART OF THE TRACK OF THE AUSTRIAN IMPERIAL FRIGATE NOVARA ON HER VOYAGE ROUND THE GLOBE
In The Years 1857, 1858 & 1859.

Larger.

NARRATIVE
OF THE
Circumnavigation of the Globe
BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
NOVARA,
IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,
VOL. I.

(COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government,
UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS
THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN, COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.
DR. KARL SCHERZER,
MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.
Sans Changer
LONDON:
SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.
66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
1861.
[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WOODFALL AND KINDER,
ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET.

TO
SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON,
G.C.S.ST., M.A., D.C.L., V.P.R.S., G.S., L.S., F.R.G.S.,
DIRECTOR-GENERAL OF THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND,
TRUST. BRIT. MUS., ETC., ETC.,
THE GREAT PROMOTER OF GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE,
These Pages are respectfully Inscribed,
IN RECOGNITION OF HIS VALUABLE EXERTIONS IN ADVANCING THE SCIENTIFIC OBJECTS
OF THE AUSTRIAN EXPEDITION,
AS WELL AS
IN GRATITUDE FOR THE HOSPITABLE RECEPTION SECURED TO THE NAVIGATORS
THROUGHOUT THE BRITISH DEPENDENCIES,
WHEREVER IT WAS THEIR GOOD FORTUNE TO CAST ANCHOR,
BY
THE AUTHOR OF THE FOLLOWING NARRATIVE.

Letter. LETTER.

Letter continued. LETTER CONTINUED.

PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

A member of the scientific corps attached to the Expedition, which, under the auspices of that enlightened friend of science and liberty, the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, was despatched on a voyage round the globe, the high honour has been conferred upon me of having entrusted to my care the publication of the Narrative of our Cruise.

In this not more difficult than enviable task, I have been most liberally assisted by my eminent fellow-labourers—the whole literary material collected during the voyage having been kindly placed at my disposal. The comprehensive journals and reports of the venerable Commander-in-Chief of the Expedition, Commodore Wullerstorff-Urbair, as well as the various memoranda of the other members of the Scientific Commission, contributed materially to the elucidation of my own general notes, as well as my observations upon special subjects, which latter chiefly referred to the Geography, Ethnography, and general Statistics of the various countries visited.

While preparing the details of our voyage for publication in my own language, the idea perpetually presented itself that a translation of this narrative into English might prove not unacceptable to the British public. And although fully aware that a voyage round the globe, in the course of which little more than the coasts were visited of the various countries we touched at, could not pretend to offer much new information to the greatest of maritime nations, it seemed, nevertheless, that it might interest a people so eager in the pursuit of knowledge as the English, to know the impression which has been made upon travellers of education by the Colonies and Settlements of Britain throughout the world.

The English language, moreover, being spoken more or less over the greater part of the earth's surface, geographically speaking, the author who addresses his readers in that tongue is sustained by the flattering conviction that he will be understood by the majority of the nations of the globe! For it is not alone the educated classes of all countries that seek to master a language which possesses such a grand—all but unrivalled literature! The political and commercial development which Great Britain enjoys under the benign influence of liberal institutions, has made English the medium of intercourse among almost all sea-faring nations; nay, even barbarous tribes find it their obvious interest to get a slight inkling at least of the language of a people whose civilizing and elevating energies they may not, it is true, understand, far less appreciate, but whose imposing power inspires them with awe, while they are more closely attached by the tie of material advantage.

The following narrative describes the most important occurrences and most lasting impressions of a voyage during which we traversed 51,686 miles, visited twenty-five different places, and spent 551 days at sea, and 298 at anchor or on shore.

As the purely scientific results of the Expedition will be published separately under the supervision of Commodore Wullerstorf and the other members of the scientific corps, I shall, in this place, only attempt to place before the reader a general outline of the countries and races visited during our cruise in different regions of the world.

In relating simply and concisely what was seen and experienced, I have endeavoured to avoid incurring the reproach, so frequently launched by English critics against German works of travel, of dryness and minute detail, such as render them distasteful to the English reader, and make it almost impossible to enlist his attention or evoke his sympathy.

If, as is specially the case with respect to natural science, many a doubtful point still remains undecided—if the ingenious "Suggestions" of the immortal Alexander von Humboldt (for the translation of which I feel particularly indebted to that profound scholar, my learned and esteemed friend Mr. Haidinger, whose name will be familiar to the scientific world in Great Britain), could not be acted upon to the extent and in the effectual manner each of us could have wished, the reason for such deficiencies will be found in the peculiar mission of the Expedition, and in the arrangement of our route, which was specially laid out with reference to the numerous and widely different objects, which it was specially intended to keep in view throughout the voyage.

Among the more prominent of these, may be specified the opportunity thus afforded for the practical instruction of our young and rapidly-increasing navy; the unfurling of the Imperial flag of Austria in those distant climes, where it had never before floated; the promulgation of commercial treaties; the aid afforded to science in exploration and investigation, as well as by the collection of those objects of Natural History, the acquisition of which is all but impossible to the solitary naturalist, owing to the expense and difficulty of transport,[1] and the establishment everywhere of friendly correspondence between our own scientific institutions and those in remote regions, I have considered it necessary to invite the attention of the British reading public to these circumstances, in order to make them more intimately cognisant of our various and manifold tasks, and thus make them the more readily disposed to overlook the deficiencies and discrepancies of this book, which I now respectfully commit to their perusal.

[1] Notwithstanding the short period at our disposal at each port, which concomitant necessity militates so much against the practical utility of a circumnavigation of the globe as compared with an expedition solely directed to one single centre of scientific observation, the collection of objects of Natural History made during the cruise are very extensive, and unusually rich in new or rare species. The zoological department alone embraces above 23,700 individuals of different kinds of animals: viz. 440 mammalia, 300 reptiles, 1500 birds, 1400 Amphibiæ, 1330 fish, 9000 insects, 8900 Molluscs and Crustaceæ, 300 birds' eggs and nests, besides numerous skeletons. The botanical collection consists of Herbaria, seeds of useful plants, special regard being had to those best adapted for the various climates of the respective Austrian provinces, drugs, specimens of dye-woods, and timber, fruits preserved in alcohol, &c. The Geological and Palæontological Museums of our country have likewise been enriched with various rare and valuable specimens, particularly in consequence of Dr. Hochstetter, the geologist of the Expedition, having prolonged his stay in New Zealand, where, at the special request of the Colonial Government, he explored the province of Auckland. The Ethnographical and Anthropological collection consists of above 550 objects, among which are 100 skulls, representing the craniology of almost all the races of the globe.

Before concluding, I beg leave to express my hearty thanks to all those who have contributed in such various ways to aid my humble efforts—to specify some were invidious, as in so doing I must wrong others. To each and all I return the most heartfelt gratitude.

May the indulgent reader peruse the following pages with an approving eye—may they afford him as much satisfaction and as much interest as I experienced in committing to paper the descriptions and impressions therein set forth, since in so doing, I, so to speak, made the delightful voyage for the second time, and in thought visited once more the different localities, from every one of which I, and my fellow-travellers, brought away none but the most friendly and agreeable recollections.

It inspires a German traveller with a peculiar and lofty feeling of pride and delight that he can look upon himself as belonging to a race, to whom seems to have been reserved the diffusion of a New Life over the earth—whose special mission it appears to be to make even the most primitive tribes in the remotest corner of the world acquainted with the blessings of Christian civilization, of political liberty, of intellectual culture, and, standing triumphant on the ruins of slavery and despotism, to proclaim to the great family of universal mankind, the advent of a new, a vernal era of Faith, Freedom, and Happiness!

Dr. Karl Scherzer.

Trieste, 18th March, 1861.


CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.
 PAGE
Approval of the Plan to fit out an Austrian Man-of-War for a Voyage round the World.—Object of the Expedition.—Appointment of a Scientific Commission.—Preparations.—Fitting out the Frigate Novara at Pola.—Departure for Trieste.—Visit of the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board. 1
CHAPTER II.
FROM TRIESTE TO GIBRALTAR.
Departure.—Fair Voyage down the Adriatic.—A Man lost and found again.—Passage through the Straits of Messina.—The Steamer Sta. Lucia returns to Trieste.—Regulations and Instructions for further Proceedings.—A Day on Board the Novara.—Sunrise.—Cleaning the Ship.—Mental and Physical Occupation.—Moonlight at Sea. 11
CHAPTER III.
GIBRALTAR.
Political Significance of the Rock.—Courtesy of the British Authorities.—Fortifications.—Signal Stations.—The only Place in Europe frequented by Monkeys.—Calcareous Caves.—Chief Entrances into the Town.—Shutting the Town Gates.—Public Establishments.—Inhabitants.—Elliott's Gardens.—The Isthmus, or Neutral Ground.—Algeziras.—Ceuta.—Commerce and Navigation.—Excellent Regulation in the English Navy relative to Officers' Outfit.—Small-pox appears on board the Caroline.—Departure from Gibraltar.—A Fata Morgana.—The Novara passes the Straits.—Takes leave of Europe.—Voyage to Madeira.—Floating Bottles to ascertain the Currents.—Arrival in the Roads of Funchal. 29
CHAPTER IV.
MADEIRA.
First Impressions.—Difficulty in Landing.—Description of the Island.—History.—Unfavourable Political Circumstances connected with the Cultivation of the Ground.—Aqueducts.—First Planting of the Sugar-cane.—Culture of the Vine.—Its Disease and Decay.—Cochineal as a Compensation for its Loss.—Prospects of Success.—Climate.—A favourable Winter Residence for the Consumptive.—Strangers.—First Appearance of the Cholera.—Observations with the Ozonometer.—Great Distress among the Lower Classes.—Liberal Assistance from England.—Decline of Commerce.—Inhabitants and their Mode of Life.—Decrease of the Population, and its Causes.—Benevolent Institutions.—Public Libraries.—The Cathedral.—Barracks.—Prison.—Environs of Funchal.—Excursion to St. Anna.—Ascent of the Pico Ruivo.—Singular Sledge Party.—Return to Funchal.—Departure. 58
CHAPTER V.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
Brazil the Land of Contrasts.—Appearance of the City of Rio and its Environs.—Excursion to the Peak of Corcovado, and the Tejuca Waterfalls.—Germans in Rio.—Brazilian Literary Men.—Assacú (Hura Brasiliensis.)—Snake-bite as an Antidote against Leprosy.—Public Institutions.—Negroes of the Mozambique Coast.—The House of Misericordia.—Lunatic Asylum.—Botanical Garden.—Public Instruction.—Historico-Geographical Institution.—Palæstra Scientifica.—Military Academy.—Library.—Conservatory of Music.—Sanitary Police.—Yellow Fever and Cholera.—Water Party on the Bay.—Chamber of Deputies.—Petropolis.—Condition of the Slave Population.—Prospects of German Emigration.—Suitability of Brazil as a Market for German Commerce.—Natural Products, and Exchange of Manufactures.—Audience of the Emperor and Empress.—Extravagant Waste of Powder for Salvoes.—Songs of the Sailors.—Departure from Rio.—Retrospect.—South-east Trades.—Cape Pigeons.—Albatrosses—Cape Tormentoso.—A Storm at the Cape.—Various Methods of Measuring the Height of Waves.—Arrival in Simon's Bay. 121
CHAPTER VI.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Contrasts of Scenery and Seasons at Cape Colony.—Ramble through Simon's Town.—Malay Population.—The Toad-fish, or Sea-devil.—Rondebosch and its delightful Scenery.—Cape Town.—Influence of the English Element.—Scientific and other Institutions.—Botanical Gardens.—Useful Plants.—Foreign Emigration.—A Caffre Prophet and the Consequences of his Prophecies.—Caffre Prisoners in the Armstrong Battery.—Five young Caffres take Service as Sailors on Board the Novara.—Trip into the Interior.—Stellenbosch.—Paarl.—Worcester.—Brand Vley.—The Mission of Moravian Brethren at Genaadendal.—Masticatories and intoxicating Substances used by the Hottentots.—Caledon.—Somerset West.—Zandvliet.—Tomb of a Malay Prophet.—Horse Sickness.—Tsetse-fly.—Vineyards of Constantia.—Fête Champétre in Honour of the Novara.—Excursion to the actual Cape of Good Hope.—Departure.—A Life saved.—Experiments with Brook's Deep-sea Sounding Apparatus.—Arrival at the Island of St. Paul in the South Indian Ocean. 196
CHAPTER VII.
THE ISLANDS OF ST. PAUL AND AMSTERDAM, IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN.
Former History.—Importance of the Situation of St. Paul.—Present Inhabitants.—Preliminary Observations.—To whom do the Islands belong?—Fisheries.—Hot springs.—Singular Experiment.—Penguins.—Disembarkation.—Inclement Weather.—Remarks on the Climate of the Island.—Cultivation of European Vegetables.—Animal Life.—Library in a Fisherman's Hut.—Narrative of old Viot.—Re-embarkation.—An official Document left behind.—Some Results obtained during the Stay of the Expedition.—Visit to the Island of Amsterdam.—Whalers.—Search for a Landing-place.—Remarks on the Natural History of the Islands.—A Conflagration.—Comparison of the Two Islands.—A Rencontre at Sea.—Trade-wind.—Christmas at Sea.—"A man overboard!"—Cingalese Canoe.—Arrival at Point de Galle, in Ceylon. 267
CHAPTER VIII.
CEYLON.
Neglect of the Island hitherto by the English Government.—Better Prospects for the Future.—The Cingalese, their Language and Customs.—Buddhism and its Ordinances.—Visit to a Buddhist Temple in the Vicinity of Galle.—The sacred Bo-tree.—Other Aborigines of Ceylon.—The Weddàhs.—Traditions as to their Origin.—Galle as a City and Harbour.—Snake-charmers.—Departure for Colombo.—Cultivation of the Cocoa-nut Palm a benevolent, Buddha-pleasing work.—Polyandria; or, Community of Husbands—Supposed Origin.—Annual Exportation of Cocoa-nuts.—Rest-houses for Travellers.—Curry the national Dish.—A Misfortune and its Consequences.—The Catholic Mission of St. Sebastian de Makùn, and Father Miliani.—Annoying Delays with restive Horses.—Colombo.—A Stroll through the "Pettah," or Black Town.—Ice Trade of the Americans with Tropical Countries.—Cinnamon Gardens and Cinnamon Cultivation.—Consequences of the Monopoly of Cinnamon.—Rise and Expansion of the Coffee Culture in Ceylon.—Pearl-fishery.—Latest Examination of the Ceylon Banks of Pearl Oysters, by Dr. Kelaart, and its Results.—Aripo at the Season of Pearl-fishing.—The Divers.—Pearl-lime, a chewing Substance of wealthy Malays.—Annual Profit of the Pearl-fishery.—Origin of the Pearl.—Poetry and Natural Science.—Artificial Production of the Pearl.—The Chank-shell.—The Wealth of Ceylon in Precious Stones.—Visit to a Cocoa-nut Oil Manufactory.—The Cowry-shell, a Promoter of the Slave Trade.—Discovery of valuable Cingalese MSS. on Palm-leaves.—The heroic Poem of "Mahawanso," and Turnour's English Translation of it.—Hospitality of English Officials in Colombo.—A second Visit to Father Miliani.—Agreeable Reception.—The Antidote-oil against Bites of Poisonous Snakes.—Adventures on the Journey back to Galle.—Ascent of Adam's Peak by two Members of the Expedition.—The Sacred Footprint.—Descent.—The "Bullock-bandy," or Native Waggon.—Departure from Galle for Madras.—The Bassos (Shallows).—A Berlin Rope-dancer among the Passengers.—Nyctalopia; or, Night Blindness.—Fire on Board.—Arrival in Madras Roads. 345
CHAPTER IX.
MADRAS.
"Catamarans" and "Masuli" Boats.—Difficulty of Disembarkation, and Plans for remedying it.—History.—Brahminism.—Festival in Honour of Vishnù.—Employment of Heathens under a Christian Government.—Politics and Religion.—Laws of Brahminic Faith.—The Observatory.—Museum of Natural History and Zoological Garden.—Academy of Fine Arts.—Medical School.—Infirmary.—Orphan Asylum.—Dr. Bell.—Lancastrian Method of Teaching Children first Applied in Madras.—Colonel Mackenzie's Collection of Indian Inscriptions and MSS.—The Palace of the former Nabob of the Coromandel Coast.—Journey by Rail to Vellore.—Féte given by the Governor in Guindy Park.—Visit to the Monolithic Monuments of Mahamalaipuram.—Excursion to Pulicat Lake.—Madras Club.—Féte in Honour of the Members of the Novara Expedition.—"Tiffin" and Dance on Board.—Departure from Madras.—Zodiacal Light.—Shrove Tuesday in the Tropics.—Arrival at the Island of Kar-Nicobar. 424

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.
 page
The Track Of The Austrian Imperial Frigate Novara.frontispiece
Letter.iii
Letter Continued.iv
Letter.xvi
Departure.1
Gun-room of the Novara.4
Plate: Vertical Section of the Frigate "Novara".7
Geodetical and Astronomical Instruments.10
Look-out Man.11
Track from Triest To Madeira.11
"Palinurus".16
Seamen off duty.21
View of Gibraltar from Seaward.28
Rock of Gibraltar.29
Rock Cavern in Gibraltar.34
South Gate, Gibraltar.38
Inhabitant of Frangola.47
Cape Trafalgar.52
Loo Rock (Madeira).57
Scene in Madeira.58
Bridge over the Ribeiro Seco.70
Carapuça, or Cap worn by the Natives of Madeira.91
Cathedral of Madeira.95
Sleigh party in Madeira.97
Village of Fayal.99
"El Homem em pié".101
Erica Trees.103
Track From Madeira to Rio Di Janeiro.107
Cape Frio.120
The Quay at Rio.121
Island of Paquità, Bay of Rio.156
Track from Rio Di Janeiro to the Cape Of Good Hope.182
Cabo Tormentoso.195
Cape Town.196
Rifle Volunteer Fête at Stellenbosch.217
Paine's Kloef as it was.220
Paine's Kloef as it is.220
Crossing the Breede River.226
Hot Springs of Brand Vley.227
Hottentot Huts at Genaadendal.233
Church and Mission Houses of the Moravian Settlement
at Genaadendal.
237
Tomb of a Malay Prophet at Zandvliet.245
Interior of the Mausoleum.246
Tsetse Fly.252
Track from the Cape Of Good Hope to St. Paul's Island.259
Arrival at St. Paul.266
View of St. Paul.267
Distant view of Crater-Basin of St. Paul.275
Rainy day at St. Paul.300
Track from St. Paul to Point De Galle (Ceylon).309
Cingalese Canoe.344
View of Adam's Peak from Colombo.345
Buddha Temple near Galle.353
Interior of a House at Galle.359
Track from Point De Galle To Madras.418
Masuli Boat at Madras.423
View of Madras (and Proposed Pier).424
The Holy Mountain.458
The god Ganeza.461
Bivouac at Mahamalaipuran.464
Bas-relief on one of the Monolith Temples.467
Entrance to One of the Temples.470
Track from Madras to the Nicobar Islands.480
Arrival at Kar-Nicobar.482

Letter. LETTER.
Larger.

Transcriber's Note: The text of the letter above, along with supplemental address information, are in the first volume of the German edition:

Sr. Hochwohlgeboren
dem Herrn Oberst von Wüllerstorf,
kais. kön. Linienschiffs-Capitän,
Befehlshaber S. Maj. Fregatte Novara,
Ritter hoher Orden &c. &c. &c.
in
Triest.


Hochwohlgeborener Herr,

Hochzuverehrender Herr Oberst, k. k. Linien-Schiffs-Capitän.
Ew. Hochwohlgeb. wollen, als Befehlshaber Sr. Maj. Fregatte Novara, die zu einem großen, edeln, das deutsche Vaterland und die Wissenschaft ehrenden Unternehmen durch kaiserliche Huld bestimmt ist, den Ausdruck meiner Verehrung nachsichtsvoll empfangen, indem ich, von der Zeit naher Abfahrt in halber Genesung bedrängt, es wage, Ihnen einige physikalische und geognostische Erinnerungen ganz gehorsamst vorzulegen, von denen Einiges vielleicht den ausgezeichneten Gelehrten, die die Expedition zu begleiten das Glück haben, von Nuzen sein kann. Ich würde dies Wenige nicht angeboten haben, wenn eine so genädige und liebenswürdige Aufforderung Sr. kaiserl. Hoheit des Herrn Erzherzogs Ferdinand Maximilian mich nicht dazu bestimmt hätte. Was ich Nautisches über Richtung und Temperatur der Meeresströhmungen, über die magnetischen Curven eingeflochten habe, muß ich besonders Ihrer Nachsicht empfehlen. Wenn man erinnert, scheint man belehren zu wollen, und von dieser Anmaßung bin ich weit entfernt. Da kein Entwurf, keine Abschrift meiner, wenigstens fleißigen, mit Zahlen überladenen Arbeit existirt, so wäre es vielleicht vorsichtig, sie von Jemand, der der behandelten Gegenstände kundig ist, abschreiben zu lassen. Meine gelehrten und mir lieben Freunde Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Dr. Karl Scherzer und Dr. Robert Lallemant, der mich bei seiner letzten Durchreise durch Berlin, um mir sein wichtiges Werk über das Gelbe Fieber in der Tropenzone zu geben, verfehlt hat, wage ich dringend Ihrem besonderen Schuze und Wohlwollen zu empfehlen.

Mit der innigsten Verehrung und den heißesten Wünschen für den Erfolg eines so schön vorbereiteten Unternehmens
Ew. Hochwohlgeboren
gehorsamster

Al. Humboldt.
Berlin, den 7. April
1857 Nachts.

PHYSICAL AND GEOGNOSTIC SUGGESTIONS,