Take any number of strands that can be divided by four,—eighty being the usual number for this braid—four hairs in a strand, and place on table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift No. 3 over No. 2; then No. 3 over No. 4; then No. 1 over No. 2; then No. 3 over No. 2. Then go to B and change the same way, and so round the table to A. Then go to C, and commence with the outside row of figures, and change the same as you did at A, and so on round the table, when you will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use, varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying the braid so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes, and take it out and put it in an oven, as hot as it will bear without burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
The hair to be used in braiding should be combed perfectly straight, and tied with a string at the roots, to prevent wasting. Then count the number of hairs for a strand, and pull it out from the tips, dip it in water and draw it between the thumb and finger to make it lie smoothly; then tie a solid, single knot at one end, the same as you would with a sewing thread.
To prepare the bobbin for the hair, wind it with white thread, as shown in the plate, and fasten it with a slip-knot over the knob, leaving an end of some three inches, with a solid knot tied at the end of it. To adjust the hair to the bobbins, take the prepared strands of hair and tie the knotted ends in a square knot to the ends of the strings on the bobbins. When each strand is thus prepared and tied to the bobbin strings, place them even, and tie the ends with a string to prevent their slipping.
See cut of Bobbins on another page.
Place the strands across the table-cover, over the numbers, as shown in the diagram, and fasten a weight to the end of them, under the table, through the center of cover; then tie the mold or form to be braided, around in the center, and you are ready for braiding.
For further reference, see plate of table, with explanations.
The Table Cover, as shown in diagram No. 1, represents the under side of the cover, showing the rim that fits over the cap, allowing the cover to revolve, for the convenience of the braider. The cavity through the cover and cap allows the braid, with the weight attached, to pass through as fast as braided.
For reference see Braiding Table complete, with bobbins and weights attached, on page 124.
The above cut represents Braiding Table No. 2, complete, showing the strands over the cover, with Bobbins attached; also, the weight attached to the braid, showing the manner of its passing through the table.
The above cut shows the Wood Bobbins, for fine open work or tight braids. No. 1 is used for braiding any pattern of from one to four hairs in a strand. No. 2 is used for braiding any pattern of from five to twenty hairs in a strand. To prepare the Bobbins for use, see explanations on page 121.
The above cut shows the size and shape of the Lead Bobbins. The No. 1 size is used for braiding Rings and Chains, that have but few hairs in a strand—from twenty to forty. No. 2 is used for braiding Chains that have from forty to one hundred hairs in a strand. Either size will answer for any pattern of Chain or Ring, but to vary the size of the Bobbin according to the number of hairs in a strand, gives it a nicer finish. To prepare the Bobbin, wind it with thread, as shown in the cut, leaving the thread some three inches long, with a solid knot tied at the end.
The above cut shows the weight used for drawing the work through the center of the table as fast as braided, and to balance the bobbins. Attention should be given to have the weight balance the bobbins properly, as too great a weight will make the braid loose, or too light a weight will leave it rough. Use any number of weights required to balance the bobbins.
The above cuts are made of wire and wood, for braiding over. The Nos. 1 and 2 are for braiding chains over—the No. 1 for small chains, and the No. 2 for large sizes. No. 3 is used for braiding tight or open work braids, of from thirty to forty strands. No. 4 is used for the same braids, with from forty to sixty strands in a braid. The mold may be made any length, to accommodate the work.
The above cuts show the size of forms used for tight or open work braids. The No. 5 is used for braids of from sixty to eighty strands, No. 6 of from eighty to one hundred, and No. 7 from one hundred to one hundred and twenty, according to the fineness of the braid.
The above cuts represent the completed Bracelet Braid. The No. 1 is formed from fourteen small braids, braided according to diagram and explanation on page 104,—using, however, but thirty-two strands, instead of eighty.
After you have the small braids all completed and prepared, as required in the explanation, sew them together at one end, so they all lie smooth and flat, then divide them off in twos, using each two as one strand, and plait them together; commence at the right side, take one strand at a time, and lift over one and under two till you get to the center, then commence on the left side and braid the same way, and so on till finished. Then sew the ends well, trim them, and put on a little shellac to fasten them in the clasps.
No. 2 is from the same pattern, and is prepared and finished up in the same manner. For this Bracelet you use fifteen small braids, divide them into threes for each strand, and lift over one and under one, from each side to the center.
The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on pages 87 and 97, and instead of using forty and sixty strands, use but thirty-two for each. Braid six small braids from pattern on page 87, and three from pattern on page 97. Sew them tight together at one end, divide them off in threes, with the open work braid between the two tight ones, use each three as one strand, and plait them together in a common three strand braid.
No. 2 is braided according to pattern on page 89. Have three of the braids, sew them fast at one end, and then twist them carefully and evenly together; then sew and fasten with shellac, and it is ready for being gold mounted.
The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on pages 26 and 86. Have two small braids from each of the patterns, lay them side by side, as in cut, and sew them firmly together, either with some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the same color. Then sew and trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.
No. 2 is braided from patterns on pages 18 and 86. Have four small braids like pattern on page 18, and two like pattern on page 86. Place them side by side, as in cut, and prepare and finish up the same as in the above.
The patterns used for the No. 1, represented above, are found on pages 63 and 95. Have one braid from pattern on page 63, and two from that on page 95. Place them side by side, as in cut, sew the ends firmly together, either with some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the same color. Then sew and trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.
For the No. 2, use two small braids from pattern on page 18, one from pattern on page 63, and two from pattern on page 95. Place them as in cut, sew them together, and prepare the same as No. 1.
The No. 1 of the above Bracelet Braids, is made up of two small braids from pattern on page 97, and three from pattern on page 101, using, however, but thirty-two strands, instead of sixty. Place them side by side, as in cut, and sew them together with some of the hair, or with fine silk of the same color. Sew, trim and shellac the ends, and they are ready for the gold mounting.
No. 2 is formed of four small braids, from pattern on page 97, and is prepared, sewed and finished up the same as No. 1.
The following Lithographic designs of Hair Jewelry, Flowers and Pictures, are given for the purpose of showing a few of the many beautiful forms into which the human hair may be transposed. Each and every one of the devices on the following pages, with the exception of the flowers and pictures, can be braided from the diagrams and explanations given in the first one hundred and twenty pages of this book. Select any article you may wish to make, and by referring to the patterns, you can easily find the style and directions whereby to braid it. We might have given twice the number of patterns, or even more, but any person can, after a little experience, readily invent new and different styles of braids, and by so doing, each can satisfy their own peculiar taste.
The making of Hair Flowers is very simple, and yet, of course, every one has first to learn it. Supply yourself with as many different colors of hair as you can, and by applying Gum Tragacanth, it renders it capable of being cut in any shape you may wish—such as leaves, twigs, buds, &c., and by judiciously arranging the colors, the effect will be very pleasing. Pictures are made in the same manner, and any one possessing the least artistic skill, can make any flower or picture they may desire, and many pleasing adornments and lasting mementos may thereby be had.
All articles intended to be worn as jewelry, should, of course, be mounted with gold, and as this kind of work is not done in all jewelry establishments, I wish to say that my facilities for this branch of business is complete, and the work done is in the best possible manner. I can guarantee satisfaction in all cases, let the style desired be what it may. In sending braids to be mounted, draw on paper, as near as can be, the style or design you want.
The above cut represents the apparatus used for weaving hair into Switches, Curls, Wigs, &c. It is a very simple arrangement, and can be easily constructed. Provide two straight sticks, about twelve inches long, and in one of them bore three small holes, two inches apart, in which to place as many thumb-screws, to be used for tightening or loosening the cords; in the other, have a single wooden pin or nail, to fasten the cords to. Place the sticks in a firm, upright position, about three feet apart, either by boring holes through a table, or by using mortised blocks, such as is plainly shown in cut, at the right end. After placing them in position, put on three cords, as shown in diagram, numbered 1, 2 and 3. For this weft use linen thread, at Nos. 1, 2 and 3.
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, as shown in diagram, and draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and place it up to the threads, Nos. 1, 2 and 3, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, and over No. 1. Then push the strands together, as in cut.
The No. 1 of the above cuts represents the winding and sewing of the switch after it is woven. For sewing a switch on points, after weaving, take Berlin cord, about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, and tie a solid knot at the end, and sew the end of the weft to the knotted end of the cord; then wind the weft around the cord, as shown in cut, the length of point desired, turning the end of the cord over to form a loop. Cut the weft according to the number of points desired in the switch. Cut No. 2 shows the switch all complete.
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over No. 2, and under No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For this weft use fine, strong linen thread.
After weaving, according to directions on page 241, take a piece of ribbon an inch wide, the same color of hair, and as long as you wish the curls to be in width, and sew the weft to it back and forth. After that is done, pipe them, which is done in this manner: Dampen the hair, comb each curl out straight, and wind it tightly on a rattan stick about four inches long, having each curl on a separate stick, and commencing to wind at the tip end, tying them firmly to keep in place. Then boil in water for thirty minutes, and place in an oven as hot as they will bear without burning, until quite dry. When dry and perfectly cool, take them off the sticks, and smooth over a curling iron, the size you wish the curls. Side curls and frizzes should be prepared the same way.
Cut No. 2 represents a set of Curls and Puffs. For explanation of Puffs, see page 245.
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3 around under Nos. 3 and 2, and over No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For this weft use sewing silk.
WEAVING HAIR FOR WATERFALLS AND BOWS
Prepare the same as above, and place the strand under No. 1, over Nos. 2 and 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, over No. 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, and over Nos. 2 and 1. Aside from these changes, follow directions given above.
In making a Chignon, you have first to make the cushion. Take the combings or waste hair, which is of no other use, and place it between the cards or stiff brushes, the same as for weaving. Use the weaving apparatus, with two piping cords, instead of three small ones, and wind the hair all up, by passing over, between and under the cords. Boil and dry it, and then pull out the cord, which leaves it all crimped, ready to weave, according to directions on page 239. Then sew it on a cord, the same as a switch, and form it in any shape you desire, for a Waterfall, Bow or Puffs. This completes the cushion. Then weave the long hair for the covering, according to directions on page 243, and sew it to the top end of the cushion; comb it out smooth, cover the cushion, and tie a cord around it immediately at the bottom; then bring up the end of the hair, and pin it to the inside. Cut No. 1 is intended to represent the cushion, and No. 2 the complete Waterfall.
Cut No. 3 represents the Bow, which is made in the same manner, by using two small cushions, like cut No. 1, and placing between them a strand of smooth or braided hair.
To make Puffs for front of head, from false hair, similar to cut No. 1, weave hair from eight to twelve inches long, according to directions on page 241; then take a ribbon, about one and a half inches wide, any length required, and tack it on a wig block, or straight piece of board, and sew the weft crossways a quarter of an inch apart, till the ribbon is entirely covered; then divide it off in as many puffs as desired, comb each out straight, and wind it over the two fore-fingers, close up to ribbon, and put in a hair-pin to retain it.
To make Puffs for back of head, cut No. 2, prepare the same way; make the foundation the shape and size you wish the puffs, and sew it on the same way you want the puffs to run. The puffs may be made over a cushion, formed of crimped hair the shape wanted, and wound over that instead of the fingers. Ladies not wearing false hair, can have her own hair dressed by following the above directions.
Cut No. 3 represents a coil, which is made from a switch, and wound over a long roll of crimped hair. They are much nicer, but more expensive, by being made altogether from a switch, as that can be twisted into a rope or braided, before coiling.
I herewith present, on the following pages, a number of engravings illustrative of a few of the many styles of Hair Dressing, accompanied with explanatory remarks as to their execution. They are the latest and most fashionable European and American styles, and will prove indispensable to every lady's toilet, as, from the explanations, they will be able, with very little practice, to dress their own hair in any desired style; and when any new style is inaugurated, after studying and practicing the directions given with each illustration, she will find it an easy matter to arrange it accordingly.
Any one learning Hair Dressing, should acquire perfectly the execution of the first pattern—the Promenade Head-Dress—as that is very easily arranged, and when you have once executed it in a perfect manner, the others will prove comparatively easy.
The manner of dressing the hair at the present day calls for much attention, and many inquiries are addressed us on the subject. It is plain, however, that what would correspond with the complexion and physiognomy of one, would certainly have a distasteful appearance on another; consequently, in answering inquiries, I can do nothing more than give the different styles worn. Before giving my illustrations on Hair Dressing, I have given instructions how to weave hair for chignons, curls, switches, &c., and how to put them in shape, and with the directions given with each illustration on Hair Dressing, it will certainly be an easy task to arrange the hair in any style that is now or may be in fashion.
Our first cut represents the Promenade Head-Dress, but is worn as frequently in the drawing-room, and even at public and private assemblies—in fact, a common and very pretty style.
Explanation: Comb the front hair between the temples straight back, over a cushion of crimped hair, forming a Chignon; then make two braids of two small switches, and place one of them over the top of the Chignon, and the other across the forehead, forming a diadem, turning the ends under; then comb the hair from temples over the braids, and put back under the Chignon, and fasten. Place a net of pearl or gilt beads over the Chignon, as in cut. You can use false hair for covering cushion, if desired.